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| |machine name=Hammer A3-31
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| |image=Hammer A3-31.jpg
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| |synonyms=planer-thicknesser, power jointer, thickness planer;<br>DE: Abricht- und Dickenhobelmaschine, "Abrichte", "Dickte"
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| |type=
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| |status=in [[commissioning]]
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| |access=
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| |location=CNC Area
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| |material=naturally structured [[wood]]<br>(not more [[Engineered Woods|engineered]] than [[Glulam|glued laminated timber]]!)
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| |tutors=
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| |manual=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
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| |donation=
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| |similar=[[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]], [[planer]]
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| }}
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| A jointer is used for straightening the narrow sides of [[Wood|wooden]] boards which is necessary for panel glue-ups and some kinds of [[:Category:Joinery|joinery]]. It basically consists of a flat surface with a slightly protruding cutting drum at the center. | | A jointer is used for straightening the narrow sides of [[Wood|wooden]] boards which is necessary for panel glue-ups and some kinds of [[:Category:Joinery|joinery]]. It basically consists of a flat surface with a slightly protruding cutting drum at the center. |
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| We chose to get a combination jointer/planer to save valuable space: thanks to the second flat surface ''under'' this cutting drum, you can also thickness boards with this machine!
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| | | <!-- NOTE: The following block "imports" content from separate pages - please don't change the code! To edit the actual information, please go back and click "edit" next to the section headline you are interested in :-) --> |
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| |ManualComment=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
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| |IntroductionComment=[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]
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| |SecurityComment=printed manual needs to be kept at the machine (done), [[Push Blocks|push blocks]] need to be adapted with pins that fall down behind the workpiece (and/or make a new one with a lip)
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| == Buying rough sawn wood ==
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| With our Jointer-Planer, you are able to buy rough sawn wood from wholesalers, your favorite construction market - or even directly from one of the saw mills in the surrounding area. Depending on how rough the wood is, you'll have to plan on removing between 2 and 4mm of material per large face and up to 10mm on the smaller faces of the wood - this is due to the sawing marks on the larger faces and on the often non-squarely cut smaller faces. In construction markets, the rough wood tends to be on the lower end of the amount of material to be removed, while wholesalers or mills tend to be on the upper end of material to be removed. So, you should buy your base wood oversized and rather too large than too small.
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| While construction markets like Bauhaus, Hornbach or Obi usually have fixed prices depending on cut and size and are rather expensive, wholesalers and saw mills price their wood by volume and are often open for negotiation - you usually directly get 3% off when paying immediately, if you ask. Always ask beforehand, if the volume is calculated *before* drying (which is often the case for domestic woods) or *after* drying (which is often the case for imported wood) - this may change the price by up to 15%.
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| === Buying wholesale or at a saw mill ===
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| You should bring a pocket ruler and (optionally) a small hand plane.
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| If you want the best bargain, you should also check, if the wood has been Air Dried (noted by the abbreviation AD) or Kiln Dried (abbreviated by KD) - the former is usually 10-20% cheaper than the latter. Air dried wood has gotten a lot longer time to dry out, which also reduces the internal stress - air-dried wood tends not to warp and rip as much as kiln-dried wood, but both are completely fine to buy.
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| When choosing woods, it's accustom for you to choose the exact pieces you want, which usually have to buy whole. You usually are allowed to bring a small plane and can ask to plane a small area to check the grain. Also bring a pocket ruler to determine the sizes, since each piece will have it's own size. Should the wood have a split at the end, this piece has to be cut or will continue to rip apart later one. It's okay to ''not'' take that board or negotiate the price down.
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| [[File:Wood_ring_direction.png]] ([https://informationsdienst-holz.de/fileadmin/Publikationen/2_Holzbau_Handbuch/R04_T01_F01_Holz_als_konstruktiver_Baustoff.pdf Source])
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| You should also check the end face and identify the cut - especially if you plan to use the wood outside, where the environment will cause the wood to shrink and expand.
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| * if the wood grain lies flat, the board tends to warp uniformly and a lot (fig a)
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| * if the wood grain stands (fig b), the board will not warp
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| * if the wood grain is diagonally (fig c), the board tends to warp unpredictably, but not as much as in figure a
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| If you've chosen your boards, an employee of the wholesaler or saw mill will calculate the price, which you usually have to pay now. They usually will shorten the board roughly with a chainsaw (transport cuts) to fit them in your vehicle.
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| === Time and effort / price ===
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| Depending on the hardness of your wood, you can take of more or less depth in one pass on the jointer or planer. To give you a rough idea: [[User:Lars]] bought 12 pieces à 1000x300x55mm of rough sawn hardwood from a wholesaler. It took ''2 hours'' to get the 12 pieces flat and square on 3 sides and reduced the width of the boards to 49mm and another ''20 minutes'' to get them to their final thickness of 45mm. Add another ''15 minutes'' for cleanup of the machine. This produced 2 sacks of saw dust.
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| If the wood would have been a softwood from a construction market, the first part would have taken around 1 hour instead of 2 hours. Still, in contrast to hand planing with a bench plane, it's probably a fifth of the time needed otherwise.
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| Some saw mills might also joint and plane this for you, which is a service you'll obviously have to pay extra for. Still, in comparison to buying pre-planed and joined hardwood, it's a lot cheaper to do it yourself. ''Remember'': Jointing and planing dulls the knifes of the machine a lot and the saw dust has to be recycled - your member fee does not include those costs, so remember to leave a share.
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| == Alternatives == | | == Alternatives == |
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| * jointing can also be achieved with a plane (ideally a long-bodied [[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]]) or a special [[Jigs|jig]] for the [[Table Saw|table saw]] | | * jointing can also be achieved with a plane (ideally a long-bodied [[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]]) or a special [[Jigs|jig]] for the [[Table Saw|table saw]] |
| * instead of a thickness planer, you can use [[Bench Planes|bench planes]] or a handheld [[planer]] | | * instead of a thickness planer, you can use [[Bench Planes|bench planes]] or a handheld [[planer]] |
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| | [[Category:Planes]] |
| [[Category:Woodworking]] | | [[Category:Woodworking]] |
A jointer is used for straightening the narrow sides of wooden boards which is necessary for panel glue-ups and some kinds of joinery. It basically consists of a flat surface with a slightly protruding cutting drum at the center.
Hammer A3-31
We chose to get a combination jointer/planer to save valuable space: thanks to the second flat surface under this cutting drum, you can also thickness boards with this machine! You can therefore buy rough-sawn wood and dimension it at the CoMakingSpace.
possible workpiece dimensions
Jointing
when moving a workpiece over the
jointer, your fingers should always remain close together and far from the blades
Jointing (using the top table of the machine) creates flat, perpendicular surfaces. Flawless edges are especially important for glue-ups, e.g. to make your own glued laminated timber panels!
You should check the fence for squareness against the table, e.g. with a square or inclinometer. Advanced users may also try to joint at other angles than 90°.
A square fence is not absolutely required for a good glue-up joint: if you can't improve squareness (or want to play it safe either way), try varying the orientation of each board's edges as you joint them. If all your "left" edges are off-square in one direction and all the "right" ones are the opposite, you will still get a perfectly matching, but not square, joint (video).
Pieces for jointing need to be AT LEAST 10 mm high and AT MOST 310 mm wide.
Planing
angled infeed as one way to mitigate snipe
If you flip the top of the machine back, you're able to feed a workpiece under the knives to plane its top surface. Thereby you can obtain a board with parallel faces and dial in its thickness exactly as you want. Make sure you fully understand grain direction or you'll easily get tearout!
Feeding boards through at a slight angle may help to avoid "snipe" (Hobelschläge) but you should be prepared to cut off unsightly ends afterwards - i.e., plane oversized boards and cut them to length as the next step.
Pieces for planing need to be AT LEAST 4 mm high and 160 mm long and AT MOST 250 mm high or 306 mm wide.
Accessories
Dust Evacuation
The planer should only be used in tandem with a suitable dust evacuation system. The intended machine for this purpose is the Felder AF 14, that should be in close proximity to the planer. The system should be hooked up through the automated switch box (switched output) mounted on the metal frame, that should also be connected to the planer (trigger output). Once the planer is started the vacuum system will turn on after 3 seconds and turn off once the planer is off for 8 seconds. Make sure to set the switch on the vacuum motor to '1' (ON) before starting!
Alternatives
