Four-Jaw Chucks: Difference between revisions

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===Four-Jaw-Chucks===
{{AccessoryInfoBox
|tool name=Four-Jaw Chucks
|german=Vierbackenfutter
|image=For-Jaw_Chuck_Holding_Workpiece.jpg
|synonyms=four-jaw scroll chucks; DE: Vierbackenfutter
|type=workholding ([[woodturning]])
|status=
|material=[[wood]]
|used with=[[Used With::Tyme Avon]] or [[Used With::Holzmann D 460F]] wood lathes;<br>(optional) [[Dovetail Scraper|dovetail scraper]]
|location=[[Location::Woodturning Area|woodturning area]]
|access=read this page & manuals where available
|tutors={{£}}
|manual=see [[#Available Chucks|list]]
|donation=
|similar=[[Three-Jaw Chucks|three-jaw chucks]], [[Precision Combination Chuck|precision combination chuck]],<br>[[faceplates]]
}}
Four-jaw chucks are a very nice workholding option for [[woodturning]] projects that can't be held between centers (e.g. bowls).
Four-jaw chucks are a very nice workholding option for [[woodturning]] projects that can't be held between centers (e.g. bowls).


They do not automatically center a workpiece like three-jaw chucks you may know from metal [[turning]], but have other advantages to work especially well with wood.
They do not automatically center a workpiece like [[Three-Jaw Chucks|three-jaw chucks]] you may know from metal [[turning]], but have other advantages to work especially well with wood.


The chucks come with different jaw sets ''(Spannbacken)'' for different diameters. You don't use the "pointy" base jaws directly because they dent the wood! Instead, in the first step a recess or tenon ''(Zapfen)'' with the exact jaw diameter (and often a dovetail profile) is turned with other workholding options and the workpiece is then flipped around to be held by the chuck.
The chucks come with different jaw sets ''(Spannbacken)'' for different diameters. Take care to put them in the '''correct order''' - most jaws will be numbered and only close in a neat point or square if you match them with the proper spot on the chuck.


___photos: chuck without jaw set, chuck with jaw set, chuck holding a workpiece_____
You usually don't use the "pointy" base jaws to directly hold a [[Woodturning Blank|woodturning blank]] because they dent the wood! Instead, in the first step a recess or tenon ''(Zapfen)'' with the exact jaw diameter (and often a dovetail profile) is turned with other workholding options and the workpiece is then flipped around to be held by the chuck.
<gallery>
File:Four-Jaw Chuck.jpg|four-jaw chuck (SuperNova²) with two very different jaw sets
File:Four-Jaw Chuck No Chucks.jpg|four-jaw chuck without any jaws on the jaw slides (for small pieces that fit through the center bore)
File:For-Jaw Chuck Holding Workpiece.jpg|four-jaw chuck holding a workpiece
</gallery>


== Precision ==
====Precision====
The holding force is best when the jaw diameter (and shape) matches the workpiece '''precisely'''. Reportedly, it can be improved further by tightening both chuck screws, not just one.<sup> HolzWerken 99</sup>
The holding force is best when the jaw diameter (and shape) matches the workpiece '''precisely''' as specified in the manual (e.g. SuperNova²: 6 mm larger/smaller than the jaw diameter when fully closed/opened). Reportedly, it can be improved further by tightening both chuck screws, not just one.<sup> HolzWerken 99</sup>


''We could make laser cut templates for the various jaw sets!''
''We could make laser cut templates for the various jaw sets' ideal diameters!''


Turning [[Green Wood|green wood]] can be an exception to this rule: keeping in mind shrinkage, you may want to oversize your tenon during the first round of rough turning so you can cut it to the proper size when you finish the piece.<sup> [https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qO9xi5xd5NE&t=14m21s]</sup>
Turning [[Green Wood|green wood]] can be an exception to this rule: keeping in mind shrinkage, you may want to oversize your tenon during the first round of rough turning so you can cut it to the proper size when you finish the piece.<sup> [https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qO9xi5xd5NE&t=14m21s]</sup>


== Available Chucks ==
====Available Chuck/Jaw Combinations====
The chucks are screwed onto a [[Wood Lathes|wood lathe]]'s spindle screw, so they are somewhat machine specific based on the thread.
The chucks are screwed onto a [[Wood Lathes|wood lathe]]'s spindle screw, so they are somewhat machine specific based on the thread.
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|+
!Photo
!Chuck
!Jaw Set
!Manual
!Workpiece (OD)
!Workpiece (ID)
!Thread
!Lathe(s)
!Adjustment Tools
!Further Parts/Notes
|-
|[[File:SuperNova2 + Woodworm screw.jpg|100px]]
|SuperNova²
|50 mm dovetail (standard)
|[https://www.teknatool.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/PRO-TEK-SUPERNOVA2-Full-Manual-FINAL-1.pdf teknatool.com]
|45-65 mm (ideal: 50 mm)
|50-75 mm (ideal: 67 mm)
|M25{{x}}2 mm with adapter (native: M33{{x}}3.5 mm)
|[[Tyme Avon]]
|4 & 8 mm [[Hex Keys|hex keys]]
|"Woodworm" screw for fast mounting of rough material
|-
|[[File:SuperNova2 Cole jaws.jpg|100px]]
|SuperNova²
|Cole jaws
|[https://www.teknatool.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Accessory-Jaw-Manual_June08.pdf teknatool.com] - page 40
|56-236 mm
|'''nope'''
|M25{{x}}2 mm with adapter (native: M33{{x}}3.5 mm)
|[[Tyme Avon]]
|9 mm slot [[screwdriver]]
|8 rubber buffers - '''required!'''
|-
|[[File:four-jaw chuck dovetail.jpg|100px]]
|''noName (CoMS 051)''
|''80(?) mm dovetail''
|
|47-77 mm (?)
|63-95 mm (?)
|M33{{x}}3.5 mm
|[[Holzmann D 460F]]
|4 & 10 mm [[Hex Keys|hex keys]]
|24 step indexing plate (attached)
|-
|[[File:four-jaw chuck stepped.jpg|100px]]
|''noName''
|''80(?) mm stepped/"pointy"''
|
|5-53 mm (?)
|63-95 mm (?)
|M33{{x}}3.5 mm
|[[Holzmann D 460F]]
|8 mm round steel handles
|''jaw numbers pointing outward have to match the base numbers''
|}


____table____ -> chuck (photo; name if possible) - which thread - which lathe(s) - available jaw sets
====Helpful Videos====
*[https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qO9xi5xd5NE wortheffort: Woodturning Chucks, Jaws, Tenons and Recesses] - detailed explanations (36 min) of hardware and strategies to maintain the strength of the wood
*[https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zCKaDSCe3Ew Mike Waldt: Woodturning - How to Hold Work Securely in a Chuck] - short demonstration (10 min) of proper tenon/recess diameters
*[https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P5YmUZQKyIs Woodworker's Journal: Scroll Chuck Basics] - rough overview (4 min) of the chuck's operation


== Helpful Videos ==
* [https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qO9xi5xd5NE wortheffort: Woodturning Chucks, Jaws, Tenons and Recesses] - detailed explanations (36 min) of hardware and strategies to maintain the strength of the wood


[[Category:Woodturning]]
*''[https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Chcdk1mUoCA Maschinenhandel Meyer: Gefährlich und ungenau - welches Drechselfutter eignet sich zum Drechseln...und welches nicht!] - (DE) Kaufberatung mit vielen wichtigen allgemein gültigen Punkten  [[Category:Woodturning]]''

Latest revision as of 02:25, 14 September 2023

Four-Jaw-Chucks

AccessoryInfoBox

Four-Jaw Chucks

For-Jaw Chuck Holding Workpiece.jpg
Synonyms: four-jaw scroll chucks; DE: Vierbackenfutter
Type: workholding (woodturning)
Material: wood
Used with: Tyme Avon or Holzmann D 460F wood lathes;
(optional) dovetail scraper
Location: woodturning area
Access Requirements: read this page & manuals where available
Tutors: Lukas
Manual: see list
Similar (More or Less): three-jaw chucks, precision combination chuck,
faceplates

Four-jaw chucks are a very nice workholding option for woodturning projects that can't be held between centers (e.g. bowls).

They do not automatically center a workpiece like three-jaw chucks you may know from metal turning, but have other advantages to work especially well with wood.

The chucks come with different jaw sets (Spannbacken) for different diameters. Take care to put them in the correct order - most jaws will be numbered and only close in a neat point or square if you match them with the proper spot on the chuck.

You usually don't use the "pointy" base jaws to directly hold a woodturning blank because they dent the wood! Instead, in the first step a recess or tenon (Zapfen) with the exact jaw diameter (and often a dovetail profile) is turned with other workholding options and the workpiece is then flipped around to be held by the chuck.

Precision

The holding force is best when the jaw diameter (and shape) matches the workpiece precisely as specified in the manual (e.g. SuperNova²: 6 mm larger/smaller than the jaw diameter when fully closed/opened). Reportedly, it can be improved further by tightening both chuck screws, not just one. HolzWerken 99

We could make laser cut templates for the various jaw sets' ideal diameters!

Turning green wood can be an exception to this rule: keeping in mind shrinkage, you may want to oversize your tenon during the first round of rough turning so you can cut it to the proper size when you finish the piece. [1]

Available Chuck/Jaw Combinations

The chucks are screwed onto a wood lathe's spindle screw, so they are somewhat machine specific based on the thread.

Photo Chuck Jaw Set Manual Workpiece (OD) Workpiece (ID) Thread Lathe(s) Adjustment Tools Further Parts/Notes
SuperNova2 + Woodworm screw.jpg SuperNova² 50 mm dovetail (standard) teknatool.com 45-65 mm (ideal: 50 mm) 50-75 mm (ideal: 67 mm) M25 × 2 mm with adapter (native: M33 × 3.5 mm) Tyme Avon 4 & 8 mm hex keys "Woodworm" screw for fast mounting of rough material
SuperNova2 Cole jaws.jpg SuperNova² Cole jaws teknatool.com - page 40 56-236 mm nope M25 × 2 mm with adapter (native: M33 × 3.5 mm) Tyme Avon 9 mm slot screwdriver 8 rubber buffers - required!
Four-jaw chuck dovetail.jpg noName (CoMS 051) 80(?) mm dovetail 47-77 mm (?) 63-95 mm (?) M33 × 3.5 mm Holzmann D 460F 4 & 10 mm hex keys 24 step indexing plate (attached)
Four-jaw chuck stepped.jpg noName 80(?) mm stepped/"pointy" 5-53 mm (?) 63-95 mm (?) M33 × 3.5 mm Holzmann D 460F 8 mm round steel handles jaw numbers pointing outward have to match the base numbers

Helpful Videos