Vertical Bandsaw Introduction: Difference between revisions

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== Safety ==
== Safety ==
=== Dangers ===
=== Dangers ===
* '''ENTANGLEMENT HAZARD!'''
* '''entanglement hazard!'''
* sharp, quickly moving blade that is only held in place by its own tension
* sharp, quickly moving blade that is only held in place by its own tension
* small splinters can fly towards the operator
* small splinters can fly towards the operator
* the sawblade can snap when you pull the workpiece back<sup> [https://www.bghm.de/film-portal/filme/bandsaege-herstellen-geschweifter-werkstuecke/]</sup> or it becomes dull
* the blade can bind with the workpiece: there is no splitter as on the table saw
** if you want to cut off thin parts that can bend, make sure the thicker part is on the fence's side of the blade


=== Precautions ===
=== Precautions ===
* wear [[PPE|personal protection]]
* wear [[PPE|personal protection]]
** definitely [[goggles]] and [[Ear Defenders|ear defenders]]!
** definitely [[goggles]] and [[Ear Defenders|ear defenders]]!
** [[Dust Masks|dust mask]]: depending on the material you are cutting - '''SPECIAL CAUTION''' when working with toxic woods (e.g. ''Eiche, Esche, Eibe, Buche, Buchsbaum'')
** [[Dust Masks|dust mask]]: depending on the material you are cutting - '''special caution''' when working with toxic woods (e.g. ''Eiche, Esche, Eibe, Buche, Buchsbaum'')
** [[gloves]]: make an informed decision (as with the [[Table Saw|table saw]])
** [[gloves]]: make an informed decision (as with the [[Table Saw|table saw]])
*** some sources say you should wear them to protect yourself against splinters which could surprise you and make your hand flinch in a dangerous position
*** some sources say you should wear them to protect yourself against splinters which could surprise you and make your hand flinch in a dangerous position
*** others prohibit the use of gloves as your entire hand could be dragged into the blade if one gets caught
*** others prohibit the use of gloves as your entire hand could be dragged into the blade if one gets caught
* do not wear loose clothing or jewellery and keep long hair under a [[hairnet]] or in a tight bun
* do not wear loose clothing or jewellery and keep long hair under a [[hairnet]] or in a tight bun
* '''NEVER''' use without installed safeguard
* keep all body parts at least a hand's width away from the blade whenever the saw is running
* before servicing, adjusting or cleaning  the machine '''ALWAYS''' unplug the saw and wait for the blade to grind to a halt
** use [[Push Sticks|push sticks]] whenever your hands would otherwise come too close to the blade
* '''never''' use without installed safeguard
* '''immediately''' report and remove a dull blade
* '''always''' unplug the saw and wait for the blade to grind to a halt before opening the case of the machine
* check the blade for cracks, bends or foreign particles and make sure that the teeth are pointing downwards before starting
* lower the top blade guide ''(obere Sägeblattführung'') as close as possible down to the workpiece (about 5 mm) so a snapped blade does not have a lot of space to cause damage in
* use a parallel fence, push stick and a jig/wedge when sawing round workpieces


----
== Suggested Reading ==
<temporary separator>
Besides these safety notes, you should know about the different types of [[Bandsaw Blades|bandsaw blades]] in order to pick the proper one for your project.
 
* check bandsaw for foreign particles
* check the blade for cracks and make sure that the teeth are pointing downwards
* Adjust blade: tensioning the blade by turning the tighting-screw. The numbers on the chart shows the width of the blade (the thicker the blade the tighter the tension, what a sentence...). Observe if the blade is lying in the middle of the pulley.
* Adjust blade-guide: Guide-pins should touch, not press, the blade but should'nt touch the saw-teeth. Leaf  an 0,5-1mm gap to the back roller. Repeat this with the lower guide-unit.
* Lower the blade guard as close as possible down to the workpiece.
* Hold ready the parallel fence, push stick and a jig/wedge when sawing round workpieces


== Suggested Reading ==
Useful links:
Besides these safety notes, you should read <...>
* [https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/039-arbeiten-an-bandsaegemaschinen/ ''"Arbeitsschutz Kompakt Nr. 39" der BGHM (DE)'']
** nice illustration of machine parts and blade guide positioning
* [http://www.holzwerken.net/Wissen/Tipps-Tricks/Sonstiges/Richtig-eingestellt-wird-die-Bandsaege-genau HolzWerken.net: Einstellung der Blattführungen (DE)'']


== Demonstration ==
== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
* <...>
* adjusting the blade tension:
** turn the tensioning screw until the indicator points to the width of the blade
*** the scale on the saw is usually not very reliable though, so you may want to refine it using the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chyo9chuwJs "flutter method"]
** wider blades need more tension
** release the tension after you're done using the saw to increase blade lifespan
 
* check proper tracking on the guide wheels (adjust the top wheel's tilt angle, if necessary)
** the blade should not wander left or right when you turn the wheels by hand
** the teeth should not be in contact with the wheels (otherwise, they can be bent)
*** flat wheels: blade should run with the teeth extending over the edge
*** crowned ("rounded") wheels: blade should run central on crowned wheels ("back" on the high point, teeth free)
 
* adjusting the blade guides:<sup> [http://www.holzwerken.net/Wissen/Tipps-Tricks/Sonstiges/Richtig-eingestellt-wird-die-Bandsaege-genau]</sup>
** guide blocks (or bearings in some machines) should lightly touch the back of the blade but '''not''' the teeth (you can use the same paper trick as for calibrating a [[3D Printers|3D printer]] or [[CNC Router|CNC router]])
** leave a small gap (0.5-1 mm, about the thickness of a credit card) to the thrust bearing behind the blade
** the distance from the teeth's base to the guide blocks needs to be larger than the gap from the blade's back to the thrust bearing (> 1 mm)
** repeat this with the lower guide
** bring the top guide down to just about 5 mm above your workpiece
 
* folding a blade for storage
 
* ''switching to disc sander mode on the [[Bandsaws#Metabo BS 1638 W|Metabo BS 1638 W]] (not yet possible - missing table!)''




[[Category:Introductions]]
[[Category:Introductions]]

Revision as of 12:59, 15 August 2018

This page is INCOMPLETE and still missing some important information before it can be used as a resource. Please use the "Discussion" feature above or talk to one of the tutors if you would like to help improve it. Thanks!



This is the content required for an introduction to our bandsaws - reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a tutor! It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual (see respective "InfoBox" on the machine page).

Safety

Dangers

  • entanglement hazard!
  • sharp, quickly moving blade that is only held in place by its own tension
  • small splinters can fly towards the operator
  • the sawblade can snap when you pull the workpiece back [1] or it becomes dull
  • the blade can bind with the workpiece: there is no splitter as on the table saw
    • if you want to cut off thin parts that can bend, make sure the thicker part is on the fence's side of the blade

Precautions

  • wear personal protection
    • definitely goggles and ear defenders!
    • dust mask: depending on the material you are cutting - special caution when working with toxic woods (e.g. Eiche, Esche, Eibe, Buche, Buchsbaum)
    • gloves: make an informed decision (as with the table saw)
      • some sources say you should wear them to protect yourself against splinters which could surprise you and make your hand flinch in a dangerous position
      • others prohibit the use of gloves as your entire hand could be dragged into the blade if one gets caught
  • do not wear loose clothing or jewellery and keep long hair under a hairnet or in a tight bun
  • keep all body parts at least a hand's width away from the blade whenever the saw is running
    • use push sticks whenever your hands would otherwise come too close to the blade
  • never use without installed safeguard
  • immediately report and remove a dull blade
  • always unplug the saw and wait for the blade to grind to a halt before opening the case of the machine
  • check the blade for cracks, bends or foreign particles and make sure that the teeth are pointing downwards before starting
  • lower the top blade guide (obere Sägeblattführung) as close as possible down to the workpiece (about 5 mm) so a snapped blade does not have a lot of space to cause damage in
  • use a parallel fence, push stick and a jig/wedge when sawing round workpieces

Suggested Reading

Besides these safety notes, you should know about the different types of bandsaw blades in order to pick the proper one for your project.

Useful links:

Demonstration

The tutor will show you these steps in detail:

  • adjusting the blade tension:
    • turn the tensioning screw until the indicator points to the width of the blade
      • the scale on the saw is usually not very reliable though, so you may want to refine it using the "flutter method"
    • wider blades need more tension
    • release the tension after you're done using the saw to increase blade lifespan
  • check proper tracking on the guide wheels (adjust the top wheel's tilt angle, if necessary)
    • the blade should not wander left or right when you turn the wheels by hand
    • the teeth should not be in contact with the wheels (otherwise, they can be bent)
      • flat wheels: blade should run with the teeth extending over the edge
      • crowned ("rounded") wheels: blade should run central on crowned wheels ("back" on the high point, teeth free)
  • adjusting the blade guides: [2]
    • guide blocks (or bearings in some machines) should lightly touch the back of the blade but not the teeth (you can use the same paper trick as for calibrating a 3D printer or CNC router)
    • leave a small gap (0.5-1 mm, about the thickness of a credit card) to the thrust bearing behind the blade
    • the distance from the teeth's base to the guide blocks needs to be larger than the gap from the blade's back to the thrust bearing (> 1 mm)
    • repeat this with the lower guide
    • bring the top guide down to just about 5 mm above your workpiece
  • folding a blade for storage
  • switching to disc sander mode on the Metabo BS 1638 W (not yet possible - missing table!)