Project:Drying Timber: Difference between revisions

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|initiator=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|initiator=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|team=
|team=
|materials=various kinds of [[wood]]
|materials=various kinds of [[wood]]; [[Wood Glue|wood glue]], [[paraffin]], [[Clear Lacquer|clear lacquer]]
|tools=pocket chainsaw, [[hacksaw]], [[drawknife]]
|tools=[[chainsaw]], pocket chainsaw, [[hacksaw]], [[drawknife]]
|software=
|cost=mostly time & space
}}
}}
Before actively looking for sources of unprocessed timber or rough-cut boards for [[Woodturning Blanks|woodturning blanks]] or projects like a "[http://gregklassen.com/collection/river/ river table]", I want to experiment with drying and storage techniques to see which works best. Drying too fast will cause the wood to crack while incomplete drying allows fungi to grow.
Before actively looking for sources of unprocessed timber or rough-cut boards for [[Woodturning Blanks|woodturning blanks]] or projects like a "[http://gregklassen.com/collection/river/ river table]", I want to experiment with drying and storage techniques to see which works best. Drying too fast will cause the wood to crack while incomplete drying allows fungi to grow.
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* '''wood discs''' can reportedly be placed in a bucket of [[sawdust]] to dry, be treated with "wood hardener" or weighed down in a stack and rotated every few weeks
* '''wood discs''' can reportedly be placed in a bucket of [[sawdust]] to dry, be treated with "wood hardener" or weighed down in a stack and rotated every few weeks
** not tried yet, but as they are really hard to dry it's best to not cut the timber into discs when still fresh!
** not tried yet, but as they are really hard to dry it's best to not cut the timber into discs when still fresh!
* thin-walled bowls turned out of "green", non-dried wood can supposedly by dried in triple paper bags without checking (cracking)<sup> [http://customwooddesign.com/turninggreenwood-1.html]</sup>
** completely different approach, could allow to skip the drying step for some projects?
* write down some of this "theory" part more nicely
* write down some of this "theory" part more nicely
** drying speed with grain, role of bark, importance to cover faces
** drying speed with grain, role of bark, importance to cover faces

Revision as of 18:07, 26 February 2019

ProjectInfoBox

Drying Timber

Drying timber variety.JPG
Status: ongoing
Release Date: started in 2016, first products in 2018
Initiator: Lukas
Materials Used: various kinds of wood; wood glue, paraffin, clear lacquer
Tools Used: chainsaw, pocket chainsaw, hacksaw, drawknife
Approx. Cost: mostly time & space


Before actively looking for sources of unprocessed timber or rough-cut boards for woodturning blanks or projects like a "river table", I want to experiment with drying and storage techniques to see which works best. Drying too fast will cause the wood to crack while incomplete drying allows fungi to grow.

Here you'll find my experiences! Different woods are tested as they probably won't behave alike.


Progress/Results

Species Approx. Dimensions Source Treatment Storage Outcome Use Notes
yew two logs Airlag none Lukas' workbench since 2019-2-6; garage approx. 5 years before that
pine log forest (left over by workers a few weeks before <???>) bark mostly gone already, no further treatment uninsulated attic since 2016-9-25 not too great (poor) chop block, then firewood (2017-5) first "attempt" without any effort, no big surprise...
apple three logs approx. ø 8 × 45 cm orchard cut into pieces for various approaches:
  • 1.5 cm discs with and without bark
  • untreated log
  • log with cut faces painted over
  • log with bark removed and cut faces painted over
  • garage (logs) or basement/attic (discs) since 2016-10-3
  • Lukas' workbench since <???>
planned: woodturning
cherry small piece gardener at the JKI Dossenheim (2016-12) cut faces painted after two months outside
  • double coat of clear lacquer
  • too late - already had several cracks
maple small piece gardener at the JKI Dossenheim (2016-12) cut faces painted after two months outside
  • double coat of clear lacquer
  • too late - already had several cracks
beech small log sawn from fallen tree (2017-2-5) cut faces painted after two weeks outside planned: mallet head "marbled" with some kind of fungus (spalting)
Robinia large log sawn from fallen tree 2017-10-21 (top) cut face painted when brought to the Space
  • double coat of wood glue and water mixture
  • left standing upright
nice overall, some cracks (could have started before treatment) wedding cake stand (2018-4)
ash large log with "handle" branch roadside (left over by workers a few days before 2018-3-3) cut faces covered when brought to the Space put under Lukas' workbench immediately (2018-3-3) planned: axe/hammer handles
unknown - maybe apple? small log spring cutting in gardens 2019-1-29 cut faces covered with two coats of wood glue 2019-2-4
  • stored on balcony at first
unknown - willow, linden, poplar, ash, alder or sycamore?? two thick logs:
  • ø 37 × 20 cm
  • ø 34 × 27 cm
Narquadah (cut around 2019-2-8) cut faces covered with wood glue 2019-2-13 put under Lukas' workbench immediately planned: bowl turning
zwetschge (yup, that's the English name) nearly an entire tree:
  • ø 14 × 100 cm
  • ø 12 × 55 cm
  • ø 10 × 30 cm
  • ø 8 × 80/55/35 cm
  • ø 6 × 55/35 cm
  • ø 5 × 60 cm
grandma's garden 2019-2-18 cut faces covered with tree wound sealant (silicone or wood glue-based by the smell of it?) on the same day
  • the fungizide part of the sealant is not necessary, but this is what we had at hand
  • the largest log was also stripped of its bark
  • smallest piece (wedge) sealed with paraffin instead
carport "attic"
  • little wedge brought inside immediately
planned: at least some furniture & knife scales
pear two medium branches:
  • ø 7 × 45 cm
  • ø 5 × 40 cm
grandma's garden 2019-2-18 cut faces covered with tree wound sealant (silicone or wood glue-based by the smell of it?) on the same day
  • the fungizide part of the sealant is not necessary, but this is what we had at hand
carport "attic" planned: ornamental woodturning

Further Ideas

  • get/make a moisture meter
  • there is an Instructable on kiln drying at home, but it seems to require lots of space and electricity
  • try cheaper and ecologically safer options than clear lacquer for painting cut faces
  • wood discs can reportedly be placed in a bucket of sawdust to dry, be treated with "wood hardener" or weighed down in a stack and rotated every few weeks
    • not tried yet, but as they are really hard to dry it's best to not cut the timber into discs when still fresh!
  • thin-walled bowls turned out of "green", non-dried wood can supposedly by dried in triple paper bags without checking (cracking) [1]
    • completely different approach, could allow to skip the drying step for some projects?
  • write down some of this "theory" part more nicely
    • drying speed with grain, role of bark, importance to cover faces
    • start with long pieces - gives you room to cut off cracked ends