Sliding Table Saw Introduction: Difference between revisions
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*will keep spinning for a bit after turning the power off! | *will keep spinning for a bit after turning the power off! | ||
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*your hands need to stay well clear (at least | *your hands need to stay well clear (at least 120 mm) of the blade at all times | ||
**use a [[Push Sticks|push stick]] if you have something small to cut (below | **use a [[Push Sticks|push stick]] or [[Fritz & Franz]] if you have something ''small'' to cut (below 240 mm width)! | ||
**use | **use Fritz & Franz and use the low edge of the parallel fence if you have something ''very small'' to cut (below 30 mm width)! | ||
*do not use the sliding table saw when you are alone in the Space, you might need another Maker to call help in case of an accident | *do not use the sliding table saw when you are alone in the Space, you might need another Maker to call help in case of an accident | ||
**make yourself familiar with [[Amputate Bags|amputate bags]] for the worst case | **make yourself familiar with [[Amputate Bags|amputate bags]] for the worst case | ||
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**high blade: cuts "down", not pushing against you - makes the saw easier to use and leads to less of a difference between cut distances on top and bottom BUT it exposes a lot of the dangerous blade | **high blade: cuts "down", not pushing against you - makes the saw easier to use and leads to less of a difference between cut distances on top and bottom BUT it exposes a lot of the dangerous blade | ||
**low blade: lower risk of serious injury (could cut into your finger, not as easily ''trough'' it) but you have to push the workpiece harder | **low blade: lower risk of serious injury (could cut into your finger, not as easily ''trough'' it) but you have to push the workpiece harder | ||
*use the top blade guard whenever it is not hindering your cut - it should be fixed so its bottom edge is horizontal and | *use the top blade guard whenever it is not hindering your cut - it should be fixed so its bottom edge is horizontal and just above the workpiece | ||
*avoid draw in danger by not wearing loose clothes, dangling jewellery or open long hair | *avoid draw in danger by not wearing loose clothes, dangling jewellery or open long hair | ||
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[[File:new photo needed.png|thumb|150px|right|DO NOT use sliding table + parallel fence at once!]] | [[File:new photo needed.png|thumb|150px|right|DO NOT use sliding table + parallel fence at once!]] | ||
*never constrain the workpiece in more than one direction during the cut - use fixtures on the sliding table OR the parallel fence ( | *never constrain the workpiece in more than one direction during the cut - use fixtures on the sliding table OR the parallel fence (alternatively: parallel fence pulled out far enough that it '''ends before the blade''') | ||
*never remove the riving knife ("splitter") and check its alignment before every use of the saw | *never remove the riving knife ("splitter") and check its alignment before every use of the saw | ||
**needs to be exactly in line with the saw blade | **needs to be exactly in line with the saw blade | ||
**distance to the teeth should be about 5 mm along the entire edge | **distance to the teeth should be about 5 mm along the entire edge | ||
*make sure the parallel fence is in fact parallel | *never cut without a stable fence/jig | ||
** use the [[Edging Shoes|edging shoes]] to hold thick or warped boards that [[Fritz & Franz]] would not hold securely | |||
*make sure the parallel fence is in fact parallel or angled ever so slightly ''away'' from the blade | |||
*do not cut several pieces on top of each other! | *do not cut several pieces on top of each other! | ||
*pull the parallel fence out when cutting solid wood ''(Massivholz)'' - that way, there is room for tensions to be released after the cut (second half of the blade should stand "free")<sup> [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhnIqY3Fqqg&t=1m35s]</sup> | *pull the parallel fence out when cutting solid wood ''(Massivholz)'' - that way, there is room for tensions to be released after the cut (second half of the blade should stand "free")<sup> [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhnIqY3Fqqg&t=1m35s]</sup> |
Latest revision as of 06:34, 13 September 2024
This page is INCOMPLETE and still missing some important information before it can be used as a resource. Please use the "Discussion" feature above or talk to one of the tutors if you would like to help improve it. Thanks!
This is the content required for an introduction to our Sliding Table Saw - reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a tutor! It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)
If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: NAME-HERE
Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's wiki page.
Safety
A dust mask may also be necessary depending on the material you are cutting!
Dangers | Precautions |
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sharp and rotating exposed blade, with chances of flesh wounds and missing limbs
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kickback - if the workpiece is pressed against the blade's side, it can be thrown towards the operator!
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sawdust and small splinters can fly towards the operator |
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Suggested Reading
Demonstration
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
- show & explain the nearest amputate bag
- check connection to the dust extraction
- how to use "Fritz & Franz" and Edging Shoes
- how to set up the stop on the crosscut fence
- how to set up the parallel fence
- always has to end in front of the blade when fixing a board on the sliding table, e.g. with Fritz & Franz!
- how to adjust blade height and angle (if angle is changed: return to exactly 90° by means of a square or inclinometer!)
- how to turn on the machine
- how to use the emergency stops
- perform practice cut(s)
- how to clean the machine after your work is done
Waiting List
This introduction takes longer than many others and usually can't be done spontaneously during regular opening times. If you would like to receive it, please add yourself to >> this list << and we will find a good time once a few members are on it!