Cordless Drills and Project:Semi-Cordless Drill: Difference between pages

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Bosch PSR 960: re-added charger details
 
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{{ToolInfoBox
{{ProjectInfoBox
|tool name=''Cordless Drills''
|project title=Semi-Cordless Drill
|image=
|image=wired 'battery' pack.JPG
|synonyms=cordless driver drills;<br>DE: Akkuschrauber,<br>Akkubohrschrauber
|status=working, but not perfect
|type=power [[Drills|drill]]
|date=Sep 2017
|material=depending on the bit:<br>[[screws]], [[plastic]], [[wood]], [[metal]]
|initiator={{£}}
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|team=
|similar=[[Drill Press|drill press]], [[screwdrivers]],<br>[[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]], screw gun
|materials=old battery pack, power supply, [[Zip Ties|zip ties]]
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]], [[Screwdriver Bits|screwdriver bits]]
|tools=[[Cordless Drill|cordless drill]], [[Soldering Iron|soldering iron]]
|software=
|cost=about 30 €
}}
}}
Cordless drills are very versatile tools and should not be missing from any workshop. Besides drilling, as the name implies, they are mostly used for driving screws ("electric screwdriver").
One of my [[Cordless Drill|cordless drill]] NiCd battery packs couldn't hold a charge for more than five minutes anymore so it had to go. But I kept the platic case and the push connectors and wired them to a power supply! The drill ([[Bosch PSR 960]], but the concept can easily be transferred to any model) can still be used with a good battery pack as before, but you can easily switch from cordless to corded mode depending on your needs (or if you're just to impatient to wait for that charger to finally get its job done).


Here's a nice [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjtk2liJ0Gk video about the internal mechanics] of a typical drill!
An upgrade to Li-ion cells<sup>[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7W3-M50uE8w]</sup> was also an option but would have required new charging electronics and probably some skills I didn't have at the time.


== Proper Use ==
The first working version is usable, but you have to accellerate with a bit of caution or it stalls. Perhaps a [[capacitor]] can mitigate this effect, and I might also add some fancy [[LEDs]] when I open it up again...
Please follow these simple guidelines to avoid damage to your screws, material, or the drill itself:
* the torque (DE: Drehmoment) can typically be set with the ring before the chuck
** '''better start out too low''' than to round your [[screws|screw]] in the first try - [[wood]] may also be damaged if screws (especially self-tapping/"Spax") are inserted too deep
** the '''drilling setting at the end of the scale should only be used for drilling''', it creates way too much torque for screws and screwdriver bits!
* there may also be variable speed settings (slider on top)
** use the '''slower one (1) for screwing''' to prevent slipping
** the '''higher speed can be used for drilling'''


== Tool Bits ==
== Measuring Consumption ==
* [[Screwdriver Bits|screwdriver bits]] and bit holders
At first I tried to find information about the intended battery properties from the label and then [[Patrick]] also helped me meter the motor's power consumption by hooking the drill up to a [[Adjustable Power Supplies|adjustable power supply]].
* [[Bits#Drill Bits|drill bits]] (shafts typically limited to 10 mm)


<br clear=all>
* initial calculations: label said "9.6 V, 1.25 Ah, 4/5 Cs NiCd"
== Bosch PSR 960 ==
** "Cs" might refer to discharge capacity, would be **5 to 6.25 A** (1.25 times 4 to 5)
{{ToolInfoBox
** NiCd cells can deliver up to 1.5 V when fully charged, so instead of 9.6 V the motor can actually handle **12 V** (8 cells) and probably even more
|tool name=Bosch PSR 960
* with the lab power supply, we arrived at an estimate of **2.5 A** without resistance and **5 A** on torque setting 3 out of 5
|image=
 
|access=upon introduction
After these math exercises, I purchased a 12 V, 6.7 A power supply from Reichelt.
|location=[[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=in the box
}}
[[User:Lukas|Lukas]] has a Bosch PSR 960 you might be able to use!


It has six torque settings and only one speed.
== Removing the Battery ==
Only the battery pack's plastic casing and the connector plate was needed for this project, the old NiCd cells needed to go. For this model, the case was held together by four screws. One of them was hidden under a plastic plug which was carefully drilled out with a [[Twist Drill Bits|twist drill bit]] so I could tamper with the internals.


=== Power Supply ===
Once open, the case revealed 8 cells wired in series as we knew from measuring.
There used to be two batteries, but one was quite old and only held its charge for a very short time. It was therefore [[Project:Semi-Cordless Drill|upgraded to a corded pack]].


Charger for the intact one: "AL 1404", 7.2 to 14.4 V, 400 mA -> 3 h charging time for the 1.2 Ah pack...
''<More details to follow>''




[[Category:Drills]]
[[Category:Cordless Tool Hacks]]
[[Category:Power Tools]]
[[Category:Electronics]]
[[Category:Self-Made Tools]]

Latest revision as of 12:47, 23 September 2025

ProjectInfoBox

Semi-Cordless Drill

Status: working, but not perfect
Release Date: Sep 2017
Initiator: Lukas
Materials Used: old battery pack, power supply, zip ties
Tools Used: cordless drill, soldering iron
Approx. Cost: about 30 €


One of my cordless drill NiCd battery packs couldn't hold a charge for more than five minutes anymore so it had to go. But I kept the platic case and the push connectors and wired them to a power supply! The drill (Bosch PSR 960, but the concept can easily be transferred to any model) can still be used with a good battery pack as before, but you can easily switch from cordless to corded mode depending on your needs (or if you're just to impatient to wait for that charger to finally get its job done).

An upgrade to Li-ion cells[1] was also an option but would have required new charging electronics and probably some skills I didn't have at the time.

The first working version is usable, but you have to accellerate with a bit of caution or it stalls. Perhaps a capacitor can mitigate this effect, and I might also add some fancy LEDs when I open it up again...

Measuring Consumption

At first I tried to find information about the intended battery properties from the label and then Patrick also helped me meter the motor's power consumption by hooking the drill up to a adjustable power supply.

  • initial calculations: label said "9.6 V, 1.25 Ah, 4/5 Cs NiCd"
    • "Cs" might refer to discharge capacity, would be **5 to 6.25 A** (1.25 times 4 to 5)
    • NiCd cells can deliver up to 1.5 V when fully charged, so instead of 9.6 V the motor can actually handle **12 V** (8 cells) and probably even more
  • with the lab power supply, we arrived at an estimate of **2.5 A** without resistance and **5 A** on torque setting 3 out of 5

After these math exercises, I purchased a 12 V, 6.7 A power supply from Reichelt.

Removing the Battery

Only the battery pack's plastic casing and the connector plate was needed for this project, the old NiCd cells needed to go. For this model, the case was held together by four screws. One of them was hidden under a plastic plug which was carefully drilled out with a twist drill bit so I could tamper with the internals.

Once open, the case revealed 8 cells wired in series as we knew from measuring.

<More details to follow>