Wood glues are adhesives for bonding wood and similar materials (e.g. paper) together. Some engineered woods may not work well due to their additives, but with actual wood the bond you can achieve is often stronger than the individual pieces.
Also have a look at this neat intro to wood glues!
- do a dry arrangement before applying glue to complicated assemblies - that way you'll be sure to have everything ready to go when the clock starts ticking
- wood glue bonds need pressure - best clamp them from all possible sides and restrain them in as many directions as you can to prevent sliding
- put some foil, baking paper or cheap adhesive tape under your workpiece to avoid gluing it to the table if you expect some squeeze-out
- Q-tips or a mini roller are great for distributing the glue evenly
- some people swear by silicone brushes, others just use their fingers
- reportedly, a dash of salt on the evenly spread glue can prevent slipping!
- clamps should be used whenever possible, especially if your parts are very light (heavier parts may press on the bond themselves)
- shop weights can help to apply pressure on large parts (unreachable by clamps)
Important Workpiece Properties
Wood is a natural material and every piece is unique, but there are a few basic things to consider:
- don't glue onto end grain, it won't be strong!
- if you want to laminate several pieces into a plate, joint the edges
- saws don't give you perfectly straight and perpendicular edges
|Synonyms:||polyvinyl acetate, carpenter's glue,|
white glue; DE: PVAC (Polyvinylacetat),
"Holzleim", "Ponal Classic"
|Suggested Tools:||silicone brush, fingers, clamps|
PVA glue is a widespread synthetic resin based wood glue and probably the one you're thinking of first when you hear "wood glue".
The bottle should be stored laying on its side to keep the tip wet - no plug is supposed to form then .
Is this adhesive removable? Please add your experiences below!
- heat: ?
- water: only right after application (e.g. squeeze-out)
- other solvents: ?