Project:Drying Timber

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Revision as of 16:40, 29 January 2019 by Lukas (talk | contribs) (tabulated existing data; gallery from photos)

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Drying Timber

Drying timber variety.JPG
Status: ongoing
Release Date: hoping for first products in 2017 2018 2019
Initiator: Lukas
Materials Used: various kinds of wood
Tools Used: pocket chainsaw, hacksaw, drawknife


Before actively looking for sources of unprocessed timber or rough-cut boards for woodturning blanks or projects like a "river table", I want to experiment with drying and storage techniques to see which works best. Drying too fast will cause the wood to crack while incomplete drying allows fungi to grow.

Here you'll find my experiences! Different woods are tested as they probably won't behave alike.


Progress/Results

Species Approx. Dimensions Source Treatment Storage Outcome Use Notes
pine log forest (left over by workers a few weeks before) bark mostly gone already, no further treatment uninsulated attic since 2016-9-25 not too great (poor) chop block, then firewood (2017-5) first "attempt" without any effort, no big surprise...
apple log orchard cut into pieces for various approaches:
  • 1.5 cm discs with and without bark
  • untreated log
  • log with cuts painted over
  • log with bark removed and cuts painted over
  • garage (logs) or basement/attic (discs) since 2016-10-3
  • Lukas' workbench since <???>
planned: woodturning
cherry small piece gardener at the JKI Dossenheim (2016-12) bark left intact, cut faces painted after two months outside
  • double coat of clear lacquer
  • too late - already had several cracks
maple small piece gardener at the JKI Dossenheim (2016-12) bark left intact, cut faces painted after two months outside
  • double coat of clear lacquer
  • too late - already had several cracks
beech small log sawn from fallen tree (2017-2-5) cut faces painted after two weeks outside planned: mallet head "marbled" with some kind of fungus (spalting)


Further Ideas

  • get/make a moisture meter
  • there is an instructable on kiln drying at home, but it seems to require lots of space and electricity
  • try cheaper and ecologically safer options than clear lacquer for painting cut faces
  • wood discs can reportedly be placed in a bucket of sawdust to dry, be treated with "wood hardener" or weighed down in a stack and rotated every few weeks
    • not tried yet, but as they are really hard to dry it's best to not cut the timber into discs when still fresh!