Laser Cutter Material Settings: Difference between revisions
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Unfortunately you can't just calculate the perfect settings based on the power ("Watts") of a laser cutter because the actually delivered energy is always based on a combination of power and ''speed'', which is different for each brand or model of [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]. To make things more complicated, 100 % power in a cutting profile is not the same as 100 % power in an engraving profile... | Unfortunately you can't just calculate the perfect settings based on the '''power''' ("Watts") of a laser cutter because the actually delivered energy is always based on a combination of power and '''''speed''''', which is different for each brand or model of [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]. To make things more complicated, 100 % power in a cutting profile is not the same as 100 % power in an engraving profile... <!-- because of different frequencies? --> | ||
As there is always some trial and error involved, please share your experience with the others! You can often use experience from other machines as a rough starting point. | As there is always some trial and error involved, please share your experience with the others! You can often use experience from other machines as a ''rough'' starting point. | ||
In general, cutting is usually done at 100 % power and the highest speed that will still result in a reliable cut. If 100 % speed still gets you through (e.g. paper or cardboard), you should reduce the power until you find the sweet spot. | In general, cutting is usually done at 100 % power and the highest speed that will still result in a reliable cut. If 100 % speed still gets you through (e.g. paper or cardboard), you should reduce the power until you find the sweet spot. Besides the power setting, you can influence the invested energy by altering the pulse '''frequency''' - you may want to go lower on flammable materials like wood, where edges might otherwise become black, and higher on plastics like [[Acrylic Glass|acrylic glass]] where you are aiming for a "flame-polished" edge.<sup> [https://www.epiloglaser.com/assets/downloads/manuals/zing-manual-web.pdf page 46]</sup> | ||
Once we have a permanent machine, we should also work on a github repository with [[VisiCut]] settings again. | Once we have a permanent machine, we should also work on a github repository with [[VisiCut]] settings again. | ||
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! scope="col"| Speed | ! scope="col"| Speed | ||
! scope="col"| Resolution (dpi) | ! scope="col"| Resolution (dpi) | ||
! scope="col"| Frequency | |||
! scope="col"| Focus | ! scope="col"| Focus | ||
! scope="col"| Comments | ! scope="col"| Comments | ||
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| 100 | | 100 | ||
| 500 | | 500 | ||
| ''5000 (default)'' | |||
| center (-2 mm) | | center (-2 mm) | ||
| | | | ||
| Line 33: | Line 35: | ||
| 4 mm - '''any''' | | 4 mm - '''any''' | ||
| 3D engrave | | 3D engrave | ||
| | | 100 | ||
| | | 75 | ||
| 250 | | 250 | ||
| ''2500 (default)'' | |||
| surface | | surface | ||
| simple black & white design - works for [[QR Codes]]! | | simple black & white design - works for [[QR Codes]]! | ||
| Line 45: | Line 48: | ||
| 100 | | 100 | ||
| 250 | | 250 | ||
| ''2500 (default)'' | |||
| surface | | surface | ||
| simple black & white design - nice brown color as result | | simple black & white design - nice brown color as result | ||
| Line 54: | Line 58: | ||
| 100 | | 100 | ||
| | | | ||
| ''5000 (default)'' | |||
| surface | | surface | ||
| | | | ||
|} | |} | ||
Revision as of 17:58, 3 December 2018
Unfortunately you can't just calculate the perfect settings based on the power ("Watts") of a laser cutter because the actually delivered energy is always based on a combination of power and speed, which is different for each brand or model of laser cutter. To make things more complicated, 100 % power in a cutting profile is not the same as 100 % power in an engraving profile...
As there is always some trial and error involved, please share your experience with the others! You can often use experience from other machines as a rough starting point.
In general, cutting is usually done at 100 % power and the highest speed that will still result in a reliable cut. If 100 % speed still gets you through (e.g. paper or cardboard), you should reduce the power until you find the sweet spot. Besides the power setting, you can influence the invested energy by altering the pulse frequency - you may want to go lower on flammable materials like wood, where edges might otherwise become black, and higher on plastics like acrylic glass where you are aiming for a "flame-polished" edge. page 46
Once we have a permanent machine, we should also work on a github repository with VisiCut settings again.
Epilog Zing (30 W)
Here's what we've tried so far - please add your own experiences!
| Material | Thickness | Operation | Power | Speed | Resolution (dpi) | Frequency | Focus | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Poplar Plywood | 4 mm | cut | 80 | 100 | 500 | 5000 (default) | center (-2 mm) | |
| Poplar Plywood | 4 mm - any | 3D engrave | 100 | 75 | 250 | 2500 (default) | surface | simple black & white design - works for QR Codes! |
| Poplar Plywood | 4 mm | engrave | 100 | 100 | 250 | 2500 (default) | surface | simple black & white design - nice brown color as result |
| Corrugated Fiberboard | 2 mm | cut | 25 | 100 | 5000 (default) | surface |
