Laser Cutter Material Settings: Difference between revisions
(→Epilog Zing (30 W): corrugated fiberboard (Wellpappe) cutting) |
(→Epilog Zing (30 W): poplar plywood cutting) |
||
| Line 19: | Line 19: | ||
! scope="col"| Comments | ! scope="col"| Comments | ||
|- | |- | ||
! scope="row"| [[Poplar Plywood]] | ! scope="row"| [[Poplar Plywood]] | ||
| 4 mm | | 4 mm | ||
| cut | | cut | ||
| 80 | |||
| 100 | | 100 | ||
| | | 500 | ||
| center (-2 mm) | |||
| | | | ||
|- | |- | ||
! scope="row"| [[Poplar Plywood]] '''(untested example!)''' | ! scope="row"| [[Poplar Plywood]] '''(untested example!)''' | ||
Revision as of 21:42, 30 November 2018
Unfortunately you can't just calculate the perfect settings based on the power ("Watts") of a laser cutter because the actually delivered energy is always based on a combination of power and speed, which is different for each brand or model of laser cutter. To make things more complicated, 100 % power in a cutting profile is not the same as 100 % power in an engraving profile...
As there is always some trial and error involved, please share your experience with the others! You can often use experience from other machines as a rough starting point.
In general, cutting is usually done at 100 % power and the highest speed that will still result in a reliable cut. If 100 % speed still gets you through (e.g. paper or cardboard), you should reduce the power until you find the sweet spot.
Once we have a permanent machine, we should also work on a github repository with VisiCut settings again.
Epilog Zing (30 W)
| Material | Thickness | Operation | Power | Speed | Resolution (dpi) | Focus | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Poplar Plywood | 4 mm | cut | 80 | 100 | 500 | center (-2 mm) | |
| Poplar Plywood (untested example!) | 4 mm | mark | 15 | 100 | surface | NOT CONFIRMED YET | |
| Poplar Plywood | 4 mm | engrave | 100 | 100 | 250 | surface | nice brown color |
| Corrugated Fiberboard | 2 mm | cut | 25 | 100 | surface |
