Project:MFT - workbench
| ProjectInfoBox MFT - workbench | |
|---|---|
| |
| Status: | in the making |
| Initiator: | Nibuzz |
Idea:
I want to build a portable workbench. This workbench is for small projects at home, when I want to do some small cuts, holes or if I want to round some edges. The workbench should be possible to store away easily on the wall of my small garage.
It should hold:
- A small bench router that is height adjustable from the top (of course with a switch that is easily accessible
- A Wabeco drill- and router-press
- A Rail Hinge for my track saw
I also also want 20mm Bench-dog-holes to hold things in Place, for example a small vice and if I need a bigger one.
The Design of the workbench is based on this workbench from 3x3Custom by Tamar (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Joj_Q3zZyA) and on the Multiwerkbank from "Holzwerken" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cepg2DAkKQE)
Creation Steps / Process
First Step: Drilling and routing the Benchdog-holes:
Using a 3D printed Template:
I started drilling holes for the Bench dogs. My learning was that the 3D-printed Template I used: [...link...] is not stiff enough. I should have estimated that, because I used PETG for durability because it is more flexible than PLA, but on the other hand it is not really stiff.
Using a lasercuted Template:
I plan on cutting a template on the laser-cutter so I have a bigger template that is easy to rout with a handheld router, while also being precise and reliable.
There are two ways to do this:
- Laser-cutting a template that has 20mm and using a router bit that has a bushing for a flushcut (this method is pretty easy, but has the downside that I would have to buy a flush-cut-bit since it is not available in the space)
- Laser-cutting a template that is bigger than the actual holes and using a copy ring. My handheld router has a copy ring that is 17mm wide. If I am using a 12mm bit, than i have to make the holes of the Template:
- Offset=(17mm−12mm)/2 =2.5mm
- Template hole diameter=desired finished hole diameter+2×offset
- Template hole diameter = 20mm + 5mm = 25mm
Using a copy ring is a little bit more difficult, but has the upside of not being depended of the quality of the fushcut routerbit
Drilling out the holes:
It is relativly time consuming manualy routing out the holes. It is easier to drill out the holes using a drill with a portable drillpress. If you clamp a plate against the workbench top you don't risk that they "ausreißen".
Routing the Corners:
Of course the last step is routing out the corners of the Bench dog holes.
Second Step: Making the plate for the Router table:
I found a leftover 3mm stainless steel plate and a 3mm aluminum plate. I will have to find a way to turn them into a baseplate for my Router. I want to drill holes to fit both my routers and I want to 3D-Print Inlays for the Aluminum-Plate that attach to the stainless steel plate with magnets (of course the stainless steel is not magnetic so the magnets have to be glued under the stainless steel plate and into the 3D-Printed Inlays - similar to this guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UazUcLDqn_I.
Third Step: Making the Router table adjustable
I am using a very old Router, a Bosch POF 500 A that I got from my grandfather. It has a "Eurohalsaufnahme" so a "Spannhals" that is 43mm wide. Therefore I can use it in my portable drillpress (Wabeco) and as a router table in my bench top. The upside is that it is very light. The downside is that it has only 500W of power. Maybe I have to upgrade it with my big Router, a POF 1400 ACE, which is not really made to be used in a router table - I will see. Perfect would be a more powerful router with a 43mm "Spannhals" which is typical for the really powerful brands like Suhner, AMB or Mafell (like the one we have in our CNC-router).
My Bosch POF 500 A - comes with a base for using it as a handheld router. fortunatly this base is very easy to be converted in a router table with acsessibility from the top. I simply follow this guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyiN1QSlQrk
--> maybe I have to do something similar to my POF 1400 ACE if I find that this Router is not powerful enough --> I will test the small one before, because I want to keep my build as lightweight was possible.
Fourth Step: Routing out the hole for the Routertable
I plan to use the [link: Rectangle jig] to route out 6mm in depth. Then I cut out a hole in the middle.
Fifth Step: Making the Rail Hinge:
The Rail Hinge is the most important part of my build. I have been dreaming about a rail hinge for a long time and hope it keeps up with my big expectations. I have been seeing a rail hinge first in this video from "Holzwerken-TV": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cepg2DAkKQE (Multiwerkbank) and in this very well build remix of the Multiwerkbank: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kapb_0U_DG0.
After seening this Video from 3x3Custom:Tamar, I knew I want to build something very similar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Joj_Q3zZyA.
I also found free designs for a 3D-printed Rail hinge (e.g. Thingiverse or makerworld ) and I want to give it a try although the print time is very long (10hrs.) and I don't know what to expect from a plastic-hinge. I have read many happy comments about 3D printing one of these and I can make a more durable one if necessary.
