CoMakingSpace Wiki - User Contributions [en]

User:NitramLegov

2026-10-30T18:13:16Z

NitramLegov: Undo revision 22170 by NitramLegov (talk)

{{UserInfoBox
|real_name = Martin
|image=MV.JPG
|expertise=Software
|email=martin @ comaking . space
|thingiverse=
|github=NitramLegov
}}
I am a technology enthusiast<ref>Own description</ref> with a strong IT Background<ref>Masters Degree</ref>. I enjoy working both on Software projects as well as on "real world" projects (e.g. in the woodworking workshop).

In the CoMakingSpace, I can mainly help you out with questions regarding software development, software usage, our network setup and anything around raspberry pis. Additionally, I became a [[Manager]] in 2019, so feel free to reach out to me in case of administrative questions.

I´m full of Ideas for private projects as well as for the space itself. This page will serve as a list for me.

Since working in a team is usually more fun, feel free to reach out to me if you want to work together on any of the topics mentioned below. You can usually find me in the Space during the opening hours or contact me via the "Maker Community HD" WhatsApp group. You can also send me an [[Special:EmailUser/NitramLegov|E-Mail]]
== Tutoring ==
I started to become a [[tutor]] for some machines we have. Right now, I am a tutor for the following machines:
{{#ask:
[[Tutor::User:NitramLegov]]
|?Introduction for=Machine(s)
|mainlabel=Introduction
|format=broadtable
|class=smwtable-clean sortable
}}

== Projects ==
=== "Completed" Projects ===
Completed here means that these things are usable<ref>Own description. Patrick might think different....</ref>.
* The bluetooth & network part of [[Sound System]]
* [[Project:Music Station]]
* [[Project:MQTT Broker]]
* Enable CNC Control via the Network. See [[G-Code Sender]]
* Improving the CNC Control:
** [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/57 Default Workspace Settings]
* The [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/tree/master/Printouts/QRCodes wiki crawler] which generates the [[QR Codes]] for our tools.
* [[Project:Enhanced Door Bell]]
* [[Pi Lab]]
=== Ongoing Projects & Stuff ===
* [[Project:Plant Watering]] (private project)
* Improving the CNC Control:
** [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/67 Control Panel]

=== other topics / ideas ===
* Noise Warning sign above the workshop doors (ESP with microphone inside the rooms)
* Further extension of the network in our new location
** Electronics Room
** Workshop
*** Workshop in general
*** CNC Corner
* Lots of [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues issues] for the space.
* Seminars
** Musicbox
** Raspberry Pi
** PlatformIO (done, first feedback received, to be enhanced)

=== Wiki Stuff (my working list) ===
* [[Project: Laser Engraved Business Cards]]
* Upload pictures of fleece engraving
*
* Clean up / re-structure the IT-Topics in our wiki (development languages, development tools, etc)
* Further enhancement of [[Project:Plant Watering]]

==Tools I am allowed to use==
[[Manager| Aaaaaaall of them!]]

*[[Table Saw]]
*[[Handheld Circular Saw]]
*[[Chop Saw]]
*[[Jigsaws]]
*[[Scroll Saw]]
*[[Bandsaw]]
*[[Drill Press]]
*[[Corded Drills]] and [[Cordless Drills]]
*[[Handheld Router]]
*[[Wood Lathe]]
*[[Oscillating Tool]]
*[[3D Printers]]
*[[CNC Router]]
*[[Disc Grinders]]
*[[Bench Grinders]]
*[[Hot Glue Gun]]
*[[Soldering Irons]]
*[[Heat Gun]] and [[Hot Air Soldering Station]]
*[[Laser Cutter]]
*[[Compressor]]
*[[Reciprocating Saw]]

===Missing Introductions===
[[Manager| None ;)]]

*[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]
*[[Handheld Sander Introduction]]
*[[Metal Lathe Introduction]]
*[[Rotary Tool Introduction]]
*[[Blast Cabinet]] (not yet available)
*[[Arc Welding Introduction]]

== References ==
<references />

[[Lends Tool::User:NitramLegov/Goniometer| ]]

User:NitramLegov

2026-10-30T18:13:01Z

NitramLegov: test edit

{{UserInfoBox
|real_name = Martin
|image=MV.JPG
|expertise=Software
|email=martin @ comaking . space
|thingiverse=
|github=NitramLegov
}}
I am a technology enthusiast<ref>Own description</ref> with a strong IT Background<ref>Masters Degree</ref>. I enjoy working both on Software projects as well as on "real world" projects (e.g. in the woodworking workshop). Test

In the CoMakingSpace, I can mainly help you out with questions regarding software development, software usage, our network setup and anything around raspberry pis. Additionally, I became a [[Manager]] in 2019, so feel free to reach out to me in case of administrative questions.

I´m full of Ideas for private projects as well as for the space itself. This page will serve as a list for me.

Since working in a team is usually more fun, feel free to reach out to me if you want to work together on any of the topics mentioned below. You can usually find me in the Space during the opening hours or contact me via the "Maker Community HD" WhatsApp group. You can also send me an [[Special:EmailUser/NitramLegov|E-Mail]]
== Tutoring ==
I started to become a [[tutor]] for some machines we have. Right now, I am a tutor for the following machines:
{{#ask:
[[Tutor::User:NitramLegov]]
|?Introduction for=Machine(s)
|mainlabel=Introduction
|format=broadtable
|class=smwtable-clean sortable
}}

== Projects ==
=== "Completed" Projects ===
Completed here means that these things are usable<ref>Own description. Patrick might think different....</ref>.
* The bluetooth & network part of [[Sound System]]
* [[Project:Music Station]]
* [[Project:MQTT Broker]]
* Enable CNC Control via the Network. See [[G-Code Sender]]
* Improving the CNC Control:
** [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/57 Default Workspace Settings]
* The [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/tree/master/Printouts/QRCodes wiki crawler] which generates the [[QR Codes]] for our tools.
* [[Project:Enhanced Door Bell]]
* [[Pi Lab]]
=== Ongoing Projects & Stuff ===
* [[Project:Plant Watering]] (private project)
* Improving the CNC Control:
** [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/67 Control Panel]

=== other topics / ideas ===
* Noise Warning sign above the workshop doors (ESP with microphone inside the rooms)
* Further extension of the network in our new location
** Electronics Room
** Workshop
*** Workshop in general
*** CNC Corner
* Lots of [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues issues] for the space.
* Seminars
** Musicbox
** Raspberry Pi
** PlatformIO (done, first feedback received, to be enhanced)

=== Wiki Stuff (my working list) ===
* [[Project: Laser Engraved Business Cards]]
* Upload pictures of fleece engraving
*
* Clean up / re-structure the IT-Topics in our wiki (development languages, development tools, etc)
* Further enhancement of [[Project:Plant Watering]]

==Tools I am allowed to use==
[[Manager| Aaaaaaall of them!]]

*[[Table Saw]]
*[[Handheld Circular Saw]]
*[[Chop Saw]]
*[[Jigsaws]]
*[[Scroll Saw]]
*[[Bandsaw]]
*[[Drill Press]]
*[[Corded Drills]] and [[Cordless Drills]]
*[[Handheld Router]]
*[[Wood Lathe]]
*[[Oscillating Tool]]
*[[3D Printers]]
*[[CNC Router]]
*[[Disc Grinders]]
*[[Bench Grinders]]
*[[Hot Glue Gun]]
*[[Soldering Irons]]
*[[Heat Gun]] and [[Hot Air Soldering Station]]
*[[Laser Cutter]]
*[[Compressor]]
*[[Reciprocating Saw]]

===Missing Introductions===
[[Manager| None ;)]]

*[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]
*[[Handheld Sander Introduction]]
*[[Metal Lathe Introduction]]
*[[Rotary Tool Introduction]]
*[[Blast Cabinet]] (not yet available)
*[[Arc Welding Introduction]]

== References ==
<references />

[[Lends Tool::User:NitramLegov/Goniometer| ]]

LaserCut 5.3

2026-10-14T14:00:11Z

NitramLegov: /* Copy your file to the Laser PC */ typo

{{SoftwareInfoBox
|software name=LaserCut 5.3 ''or Lasercut 5.3''
|image=LaserCut53_entry.jpg
|type=[[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] driver/[[CAM]]
|platform='''Windows''' (XP, 7, 8, 10<sup> [https://hpclaser.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LS6090-PRO-Data-Sheet-2019a.pdf]</sup>)
|license=proprietary
|source=
|installed=laser PC
|input=[[PLT]], [[AI]], '''[[DXF]]''', [[DST]], [[BMP]], [[NC]], [[JPG]], [[GIF]], [[PNG]], [[TIF]], [[TGA]], [[PCX]]
|output=[[MOL]]
|users=[[Martin]]
}}
Lasercut 5.3 (aka "Laser system 5.3" in some installations) is required to prepare a design file for our [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]. Its drawing functions are apparently quite terrible, so pretty much all users in forums etc. recommend to only use it for the very last steps!

If you are familiar with "our" previous laser cutter (the loaned Epilog Zing), this software will pretty much take over what you used to do with [[Visicut]].

LaserCut 5.3 is installed on a dedicated PC, which is located next to the [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] itself.

== Installation ==
We got a copy of LaserCut 5.3 from HPC Laser. You can get it from the orange USB drive located next to the laser cutter. However, the version we got does only work with the "soft dog" USB dongle, which ''will be'' attached permanently to the dedicated PC.

In order to prepare files on your own computer, you can install the software from another source. Most sources include an executable called "Lasercut53_Demo.exe" which can be used without the dongle but cannot operate the machine itself. The demo version also does not want you to save or open project files, but there are workarounds:
* '''saving''' is reportedly offered when closing the program
* '''opening''' of a finished project is best done with our full version at the Space, but also possible after some "terrible" exporting/re-importing<sup> [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/lasercut53personal]</sup>

In case you plan to do these, please make sure that you replace your syscfg.ini with the one shipped with our laser (can be found on the mentioned USB drive).

Installation notes:
* The software only natively works on Windows. Try [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/lasercut53personal Wine or other methods] at your own risk, but be aware it's 32-bit software
* The software must be installed in C:\LaserCut53 in order to work properly. There is a parameter in syscfg.ini which indicates the installation path. Changing it might get it to work from other locations as well but is untested. Try at your own risk.

==Setup==
===Setting the Worktable Size===
The first thing to do after installation is to check for the correct worktable size. Our laser has a size of 90x60 cm. Please ensure your worktable is set up correctly.

If it is not, you can change it by navigating to <code>File --> Machine Options</code> (or pressing Ctrl+J).<br/>
In the new window, please navigate to "Worktable" and apply the following settings:
* X Axis [Range] 900.0
* Y Axis [Range] 600.0

When clicking "Save", it will most likely ask you for a password. Just hit "OK".

==Basic Usage==

===Zoom to All Objects===
[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToAllObjects.jpg|500px]]

Sometimes you need to ensure that all your objects are visible on the screen. To do so, please use <code>Zoom to all objects</code>

[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToAllObjects Result.jpg|500px]]

Note: You can use this tool in order to ensure all your objects are on the worktable. Objects outside the worktable will result in a soft stop of the laser.

===Zoom to Table===
[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToTable.jpg|500px]]

This tool is particulary helpful in case you zoomed in or out of your worktable and want to see the entire worktable centralized on your screen:

[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToTable Result.jpg|500px]]

==Preparing a Job==
===Copy your file to the Laser PC===
You can either use a USB stick to copy your files to the Laser PC. The other option is to upload the files online. The online upload works not only in the CoSpace but as well from any device on the Internet. To upload your file use the [[File_Drop|file drop]].

The file are later located in the folder "Laser Fileshare" which can be found in the Windows "Quick Access" folder.
===Import Your File===
The first thing you need to do is to import your drawing. You can do so by navigating to <code>File --> Import</code> or by pressing Crtl+I. The following [[File Formats|file formats]] are supported:
* [[Format:PLT|PLT]]
* [[Format:DXF|DXF]]
** [[Fusion 360]]: '''export''' the file. Do not just "save as".
** [[Inkscape]]: reportedly, the checkboxes "Use ROBO-Master type of spline output" and "Use LWPOLYLINE type of line output" need to be '''off''' when saving as DXF for LaserCut 5.3<sup> [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/design-software]</sup> Save as R14 dxf not as R12.
** [[Format:AI|Adobe Illustrator:]] Adobe removed support for native '''DXF R14''' export in modern versions of Illustrator, leaving '''2000 / LT2000''' as the oldest available option. The 2000 format is the closest equivalent to R14 and will usually open without issues.

* [[Format:AI|AI]] (Adobe Illustrator)
* [[JPG]]
* [[GIF]]
* PNG
* BMP
* TIF
* DST
* NC
* TGA
* PCX

===Preparing the Cut Paths===
Once your file is imported, you will see the preview on the screen. The following tools might be handy when preparing your cut paths:

====Unite Lines====
[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines Before.jpg|500px|thumb|left|before uniting the lines]]
[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines After.jpg|500px|thumb|left|after uniting the lines]]

In case you just start your job without any further tuning, you might recognize that the laser follows an odd order of steps to cut your paths.

In order to streamline this, please select the paths of your model and navigate to <code>Tools --> Unite Lines</code>.

[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines Options.jpg|500px]]

Note: The default value of 0.100 as the unite tolerance is usually a pretty good value to recognize lines belonging together.
<br clear="all">
====Output Order====
[[File:Lasercut_5.3_order.png|thumb|right|200px|"layers" can be prioritized by moving them up in this list]]
You often want to engrave before cutting as the cut parts can fall out of focus when they are separated from the rest of the material.

::'''easy way:''' select a "layer" in the list on the right and move it around with the <code>Up</code> or <code>Down</code> buttons (top is done first, bottom last)

You can also control the order of the cuts by navigating to <code>Tools --> Output Order</code>: In the new window, you will get a list of output layers, which you can put into the desired order by selecting them on the left and moving them to the right side of the window.<br>
If you are not sure which number corresponds to which cutting path, please note that you can select lines while having the output order window open.

==== Setting the Entry Point and Laser Origin====
<pre style="color: red"> ADD IMAGE: Menu Bar with highlighted button</pre>
You must verify the laser origin, do so in <code>Laser --> Set laser origin</code>. If, for example, you set it to "top right corner" then the software assumes that the physical laser is at the top right corner of your path. If the laser is in the lower left corner physically then you run into a soft stop since the laser would have to leave its work area.

Optionally, on each path you can select the entry point the laser will use by using the "Define cut route" tool. You can find this in the menu as <code>Laser --> Define cut route</code> or in the menu bar:

[[File:LaserCut53 DefineCutRoute.jpg|500px]]

Hint: If you press space when using this tool, a new window will open allowing you to edit some expert settings:

[[File:LaserCut53 DefineCutRoute Lead InOut Options.jpg|500px]]

==== Copy ====

Especially when mass processing something, you might want to copy your drawing multiple times. LaserCut offers a few different options to do so:
# Mark the paths, use CRTL-C and CTRL-V, then move the new paths
# Mark the paths, navigate to <code>Draw --> Copies</code> <br/>This will create actual copies of your object in an array which you can define. After the copies have been created, they are independent of each other and can be modified and moved seperately.
# Mark the paths, navigate to <code>Laser --> Array output options</code> <br/>This will allow you to laser your paths multiple times. Please note that the copies are not independent of each other and can only be moved together. Also, the same settings apply for all of them.

===Selecting the Laser Mode===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Mode !! Explanation
|-
| Cut || Cuts your material by following the defined vectors. You can also use this for vector engraving ("marking") by lowering the power.
|-
| Engrave || Engraves the shapes of your drawing into your material (similar to a printer).
With bitmap pictures, this will engrave dark parts of your picture into your workpiece ([[LaserCut_5.3#Simulating_Your_Job|simulate the job]] to avoid bad surprises!). Also see "[[Laser Engraving Photos]]" for advice on pre-processing these.

Caution: with vector drawings, this will engrave the entire area of your drawing into your workpiece.
|-
| Grade Engrave||Grade engraving will tell the laser to bevel the corners of your engraving. This should increase readability of letters for example.
|-
|Hole ||This setting is similar to cutting. It will follow the defined lines, but will only make little dots (holes) into your material.
|-
|Pen Cut||'''This setting seems to crash LaserCut 5.3 and is not documented in the manual.'''
|}

===Setting Power and Speed===
You can set the power and speed for each layer separately in the Control Panel:

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions.jpg|500px]]

Here you can select the desired mode by using the correspondent drop down menu.

Double-clicking on a layer will open the speed settings for the specific layer.
Please note that the options for cutting and engraving differ from each other:

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions CutOptions.jpg|500px|Options for cutting]]

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions EngraveOptions.jpg|500px|Options for engraving]]

Please pay special attention to the "Corner Power". Usually you want to set this slightly lower than your regular power (too high and you might get "dogbone" curves instead of nice sharp corners).

=== Simulating Your Job===
To see how the laser will move, press the [[File:Simulate_Button.png]] on the far right of the toolbar or navigate to <code>Laser --> Simulate</code>:<br>[[File:Simulate_Button_2.png]]

This is strongly recommended to avoid surprises that ruin your material!

===Estimating Work Time===
You may press the [[File:Estimate_Work_Time_Button.png]] button on the far right of the toolbar to estimate runtime (i.e. approximate cost) before starting the job.

However, please be aware that this estimate is usually a bit too low (the job will take longer in reality) and pay for the actual time needed in the end!

==Controlling the Laser==
In the following, "control panel" refers to this section on the right side of the screen:<br>
[[File:LaserCut Control Panel.jpg|x500px]]

===Homing===
In order to home the laser, please press <code>Datum</code>. <ref>Fun Fact: "Datum" is not a strange translation, but actually the correct term (see [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/datum#Noun Wiktionary])</ref>

Homing the laser will cause it to move into the upper right corner. Please always home the laser before you use it (it should happen automatically during start-up).

NOTE: You can also home the laser by pressing <code>Datum</code> on the control panel of the machine itself.

===Moving the Laser===
You will need to move the laser to its correct starting position, which you decided on when you prepared your job.

In order to do so, you can use the <code>X-</code>/<code>X+</code> and <code>Y-</code>/<code>Y+</code> buttons in LaserCut's control panel or the corresponding arrow keys on the machine.

Please note that you cannot control the Z height from within LaserCut. You will need to set the proper height on the machine itself!

===Uploading Your Job===
Once you are done with all preperation steps, you need to put your job on the machine. In order to do so, please press the <code>DownLoad</code> button in the control panel. This will open a window called "Stand-alone file manager":

[[File:Stand-alone_file_manager.png]]

In here, you can select your desired job and press <code>Download file</code>. You can usually just hit <code>Download current</code> to put the latest job onto the machine.

If you want to store this exact setup and machine data for further copies, you can export the data by pressing <code>Export file</code>. This will allow you to save it as a [[Format:MOL|.mol]] file.

===Starting and Stopping the Job ===
You can start the job in LaserCut or on the machine.

Please note that it is recommended to '''always control the job from the laser itself!'''

If you do have a valid reason to start it from LaserCut, please use the <code>Start</code> button on the control panel. You can also pause and stop the job by using the corresponding buttons.

Though you surely have simulated your job in the laser cut software, before you actually start your job you have two more levels of simulation. First you can press (with open lid) the test button on the laser panel, then the laser's red dot shows you the area where it will work. It is only the bounding box and this simulation is quite fast. This way you know that you really work on your material. Be aware that the red dot and the laser itself have a few mm offset, thus give it a bit room. If you press the button labeled "Laser" on the laser's control panel you can see where it shots a little hole and where that is compared to the red dot. The last level of simulation is to start your job with the laser's lid open. Doing this the actual laser is off, but the red dot moves exactly the path it would later run during actual operation.

== Further Reading ==
* ''[https://hpclaser.co.uk/lasercut5-3-software/ summary]'' by our [[laser]]'s retailer''
* [https://bristol.hackspace.org.uk/wiki/doku.php?id=equipment:a0_laser_cutter:prep Guide by the Bristol Hackspace]

[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

<references />

File Drop

2026-10-07T19:46:20Z

NitramLegov: missing ]

Use the following links to transfer files from your device to the [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] PC or [[Slicing Computer|slicing computer]] - no need for USB sticks and the trouble associated with forgetting them at the Space.

'''These cloud folders are upload only and are regularly emptied, so make sure you keep your originals!'''

* [https://cloud.comaking.space/s/LaserFiles "LaserFiles"] are synced to the laser cutter PC
* [https://cloud.comaking.space/s/3DPrinterFiles "3DPrinterFiles"] are synced to the slicing computer
* [https://cloud.comaking.space/s/WorkshopFiles "WorkshopFiles"] are synced to our [[Computers|workshop computers]]

''If you would like to add a file to this wiki, see [[Special:Upload]].''

File Drop

2026-10-07T19:45:56Z

NitramLegov: Add Workshop Fileshare

Use the following links to transfer files from your device to the [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] PC or [[Slicing Computer|slicing computer]] - no need for USB sticks and the trouble associated with forgetting them at the Space.

'''These cloud folders are upload only and are regularly emptied, so make sure you keep your originals!'''

* [https://cloud.comaking.space/s/LaserFiles "LaserFiles"] are synced to the laser cutter PC
* [https://cloud.comaking.space/s/3DPrinterFiles "3DPrinterFiles"] are synced to the slicing computer
* [https://cloud.comaking.space/s/WorkshopFiles "WorkshopFiles" are synced to our [[Computers|workshop computers]]

''If you would like to add a file to this wiki, see [[Special:Upload]].''

Siglent SDS814X HD

2026-10-07T09:01:09Z

NitramLegov: /* Siglent SDS814X HD */ QR needs reprinting

==Siglent SDS814X HD==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Siglent SDS814X HD
|german=Oszilloskop
|image=Siglent SDS814X HD.jpg
|synonyms=
|manual=[https://www.siglent.eu/_downloads/f5785f8a04b8cc556ced1cf3be08611c siglent.eu]
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=207
}}

The [https://www.siglent.eu/product/13555727/siglent-sds814x-hd-4ch-100mhz-12bit-oscilloscope '''Siglent SDS814X HD'''] is a '''four-channel [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_storage_oscilloscope digital storage oscilloscope]''' featuring '''12-bit vertical resolution''' and a '''100 MHz bandwidth''', designed for electronics development, debugging, and education.

Thanks to its high resolution, the SDS800X HD series provides improved signal fidelity compared to traditional 8-bit oscilloscopes, making it especially suitable for low-noise and mixed-signal measurements.
----

=== Key Features ===

* 4 analog input channels
* 12-bit ADC resolution
* 100 MHz bandwidth
* High-resolution capacitive '''touch display'''
* Serial bus decoding and triggering
* SCPI remote control support

----

=== Available Probes ===
==== Siglent PP510 ====
This Oscilloscope came with 4 Siglent PP510 probes. You can find the user guide on [https://siglentna.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/PP510_Users_Guide_082017.pdf siglentna.com]

=== Serial Bus Decoding ===
The oscilloscope supports decoding and triggering for common serial protocols:

* I²C
* SPI
* UART
* CAN
* LIN

This allows direct analysis of digital communication signals without additional tools.
----

=== Controls & Connectivity ===

* capacitive touch screen for intuitive operation
* USB keyboard and mouse support
* two USB-A ports for input devices and storage media
* RJ45 Ethernet port for network connectivity
* remote control via web browser

----

=== Automation & Programming ===
The SDS814X HD is fully programmable using '''SCPI commands'''.

This enables automated measurements and data acquisition, for example using '''Python'''.

A detailed [https://siglentna.com/wp-content/uploads/dlm_uploads/2017/10/ProgrammingGuide_forSDS-1-1.pdf programming guide] is available from Siglent.
----

=== Usage Notes ===

* suitable for analog and digital signal analysis
* ideal for embedded systems, microcontroller projects, and bus debugging
* not intended for high-frequency RF measurements beyond its bandwidth

----

=== Further Reading & Media ===

* [https://youtu.be/XYTfKCJgeOQ Video review of the Siglent SDS814X HD on youtube].
[[C:MissingQR]]

Project:Laser Engraved Stamps

2026-10-06T17:55:02Z

NitramLegov: Workshop info

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title=Laser Engraved Stamps|image=Laser engraved stamps.jpg|status=done|date=October 2021|initiator=[[Luzian]]|team=[[Martin]], [[Patrick]]|materials=[[Laser Stamp Rubber|laser stamp rubber]]
|software=[[GIMP]]}}

As a preparation for the Türöffnertag 2021, [[Luzian]] had the idea to let the kids create custom stamps with our [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]].

==Material==
The stamps are made of special [https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B07RWKH4PB laser rubber].

The holders can either be made of wood or [[3D Printing|3D printed]]. The image shows a custom design created by [[Patrick]]. You can also use the [https://www.printables.com/model/1080975-3cm-x-3cm-stamp-base 3cm x 3cm Stamp Base] designed by Leo.

== Designing the Stamp ==
In order to enable the kids to design their own stamps, we have created a template where they can draw the design on:
[[File:LaserStampTemplate.png|none|thumb]]
This template can be printed and - after designing the stamp - scanned.

== Preparing the Image ==
After scanning the template with the stamp design, it needs to be prepared for the [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]. For this, 3 steps are needed:

# convert it into a 2-bit image (the laser can only produce "stamping" or "non-stamping" areas, no grey-scales are possible). You can use Colors->Threshold in [[Gimp]] (and the eraser and brush tools to clean up a bit).
# invert the colors (Gimp: Colors->Invert)
# horizontally mirror the image (Gimp: Tools->Transform Tools->Flip)
You can transfer the image from your local computer to the laser PC via our [[File Drop|laser file drop]].

'''Note:''' sometimes [[LaserCut 5.3]] does not like the GIMP export and throws an error ("only 2 bit maps can be engraved"). In this case, open the png in Inkscape and export it as PNG again, this fixes the issue for some reason.

== Laser the Stamp and Test It ==
The last step follows the regular preparations for engraving pictures with the laser cutter. The needed settings can be found on the page "[[Laser Cutter Material Settings]]".

== Workshop ==

=== Materials needed ===

* Stamp bases
** 2-3 per kid & type
* Stamp rubber [https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0F5BFP4SN (e.g. from Amazon)]
** 2 sheets are more than enough for ~6 kids
* Pens (black fineliner & black markers)
* Double sided tape
* Printouts of the [[:File:LaserStampTemplate.png|Laser Stamp Template]]
* Scanner

=== Workflow ===
The workshop is best carried out in pairs. One person supervises the children as they draw the stamps on paper, then scans them, cuts out the stamps without the black border, converts them to black and white, '''mirrors the image''' and uploads the finished PNGs via Laserfiles. Scaling can be done in the Laser software as long as the aspect ratios are correct.
The second person stands at the laser cutter. It is advisable to load the images into the laser cutter software one after the other and cut them, aligning them directly on the laser, so that you can better estimate the space and save material. Too many stamps at once overwhelms the laser cutter software and causes it to crash.
At the beginning, the person at the laser cutter has little to do because the children have to draw first. However, then a lot of children finish at the same time. Towards the end, the curve flattens out again.
To prevent the children from blocking each other (the laser cutter takes time), each child should be allowed to submit a maximum of two stamp designs at the beginning. If there is still time and material (!) left at the end, extra requests can still be accommodated...

=== Improvements ===

* (Re-) Design the stamp bases in the different sizes and save them as stl
* Save the Laser Stamp Template as pdf to ensure correct sizes when printing

== Further Reading ==
* Trotec (laser cutter manufacturer) on [https://www.troteclaser.com/en/applications/stamp-engraving/ stamp rubber and recommended settings]

Project:Laser Engraved Stamps

2026-10-03T15:40:55Z

NitramLegov: Workshop preparation

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title=Laser Engraved Stamps|image=Laser engraved stamps.jpg|status=done|date=October 2021|initiator=[[Luzian]]|team=[[Martin]], [[Patrick]]|materials=[[Laser Stamp Rubber|laser stamp rubber]]
|software=[[GIMP]]}}

As a preparation for the Türöffnertag 2021, [[Luzian]] had the idea to let the kids create custom stamps with our [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]].

==Material==
The stamps are made of special [https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B07RWKH4PB laser rubber].

The holders can either be made of wood or [[3D Printing|3D printed]]. The image shows a custom design created by [[Patrick]]. You can also use the [https://www.printables.com/model/1080975-3cm-x-3cm-stamp-base 3cm x 3cm Stamp Base] designed by Leo.

== Designing the Stamp ==
In order to enable the kids to design their own stamps, we have created a template where they can draw the design on:
[[File:LaserStampTemplate.png|none|thumb]]
This template can be printed and - after designing the stamp - scanned.

== Preparing the Image ==
After scanning the template with the stamp design, it needs to be prepared for the [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]. For this, 3 steps are needed:

# convert it into a 2-bit image (the laser can only produce "stamping" or "non-stamping" areas, no grey-scales are possible). You can use Colors->Threshold in [[Gimp]] (and the eraser and brush tools to clean up a bit).
# invert the colors (Gimp: Colors->Invert)
# horizontally mirror the image (Gimp: Tools->Transform Tools->Flip)
You can transfer the image from your local computer to the laser PC via our [[File Drop|laser file drop]].

'''Note:''' sometimes [[LaserCut 5.3]] does not like the GIMP export and throws an error ("only 2 bit maps can be engraved"). In this case, open the png in Inkscape and export it as PNG again, this fixes the issue for some reason.

== Laser the Stamp and Test It ==
The last step follows the regular preparations for engraving pictures with the laser cutter. The needed settings can be found on the page "[[Laser Cutter Material Settings]]".

== Workshop ==

=== Preparation ===

* Check that enough stamp bases are available. Print new ones if needed
* Buy stamp rubber
* Buy black fineliner
* Ensure double sided tape is available

=== Workflow ===
The workshop is best carried out in pairs. One person supervises the children as they draw the stamps on paper, then scans them, cuts out the stamps without the black border, converts them to black and white, '''mirrors the image''' and uploads the finished PNGs via Laserfiles. Scaling can be done in the Laser software as long as the aspect ratios are correct.
The second person stands at the laser cutter. It is advisable to load the images into the laser cutter software one after the other and cut them, aligning them directly on the laser, so that you can better estimate the space and save material. Too many stamps at once overwhelms the laser cutter software and causes it to crash.
At the beginning, the person at the laser cutter has little to do because the children have to draw first. However, then a lot of children finish at the same time. Towards the end, the curve flattens out again.
To prevent the children from blocking each other (the laser cutter takes time), each child should be allowed to submit a maximum of two stamp designs at the beginning. If there is still time and material (!) left at the end, extra requests can still be accommodated...

=== Workshop Preparation ===

== Further Reading ==
* Trotec (laser cutter manufacturer) on [https://www.troteclaser.com/en/applications/stamp-engraving/ stamp rubber and recommended settings]

Project:Wooden mahogany boat

2026-09-22T16:23:27Z

NitramLegov: Formatting proposal & added the Infobox :)

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title=Wooden Mahagony Boat|image=Sanding Leo.jpg|status=In Progress|initiator=[[Gurkensaft|Micha]], Leo, Leon}}[[File:Mahogany-boat.png|thumb|boat at the beginning with old paint and holes and rotten wood in the middle ]]
[[File:Sanding Leo.jpg|thumb|Sanding Leo]]

==Idea ==
This is an attempt from Leo, Leon and Micha to restore a unique old mahogany boat from Croatia and fit it out according to our own vision. Our inspiration are the classic Riva boats from Italy.

==Creation Steps / Process==
First of all we had to dry the boat from inside because it was standing outside a while without any protection. Then we had to remove the old varnish and all chrome parts of the boat. In the next step we had to remove all rotten wood parts. Especially the ribs in the middle were completely rotten. At the moment we build new ones out of high quality oak wood. Oak wood is water resistant and used in historic wooden boats. We make them a little bit thicker then the older ones to have a better stability. We have to fit them perfectly to the hull; this requires a lot of time and patience but is important for the boat´s basic stability. Next step will be to attach the ribs in a safe way and thereafter we will seal the floor with varnish, special Marina Sikaflex epoxy resin. We also used epoxy resin mixed with sanding dust from the boat to fill holes and cracks. We will built indoor furniture in the future. Our model for this part is the Riva Florida. So - there is still a lot to do and we are looking forward to our next steps and of course: We are happy to be captains on this `ship`next summer on the Neckar. :)

==Learnings==
Grinding techniques, working with mahogany wood, source high quality wood, stability considerations, structure considerations (how to build the new boat ribs), rotten wood replicate with new wood, epoxy resin and varnish, How do we make everything waterproof, Antifouling, How much PS needed, which engine required,....

Waiting Lists

2026-09-22T14:50:10Z

NitramLegov: Remove hard requirement for CNC Mill & Router

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

''If you want to "wait" for a vehicle spot, see [[Vehicle Workspaces|vehicle workspaces]].''

<big>'''How to Use'''</big><br>Please '''link''' your [[Special:MyPage|user page]] at the bottom of each list you're interested in after you've filled it with enough information to contact you and/or activated "Allow other users to email me" in your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]]!

DO: link yourself for the introductions you need for your project(s)

DO NOT: link yourself for all available introductions just because you might need it at some point in the future - chances are you'll forget something important by the time you actually use the machine!

If a list is full enough and/or you have been waiting for a while, please reach out to the tool's tutors and kindly ask for a date - maybe they've just been too busy, but it could also be that they missed the list filling up and would appreciate the reminder.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]]==

Tutors:{{#show: 3D Printer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[mobell]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]] (I have quite some experience with my Prusa Mini)
*[[Nikhilesh]] (I have experience with Prussa Mk4 and Bambu Lab X1C at work)
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]
*Liam

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Arc Welding Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: 45 min + 10 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
*[[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[User:Björn|Björn]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Meyerml|marcel meyer]]
*[[Jakob]]
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]] (no response 2024-6-24)
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]] (no response 2024-6-24)
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Nicolai|Nicolai]]
*[[User:Tom|Thomas Braun]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Heiko|Heiko]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]
*[[Didi]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors:
{{#show: Chop Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~30 min

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[LuLeBe|Leander Berg]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]

== [[CNC Mill Introduction]] ==
Tutors:{{#show: CNC Mill Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 to 2 h

Next Date: 2026-2-22, 12:00-14:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Andreas|Andreas R]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
*[[Utis]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[Mamad]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:Erik1000|Erik]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:AndyWinzen|Andreas Winzen]]
*[[Maker-Joe|Jochen]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==
Tutors:{{#show: CNC Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 h

Next Date: 2026-07-29, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:FabianM|Fabian]]
*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Mamad|Mamad]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Didi]]
*Liam

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 15 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Nora|Nora]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:CaroSam|Caroline]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Jnafls|Johannes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

==[[Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: na

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
* [[Martin]]
* [[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
* [[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:Dean|Dean]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Hm.mane|Hm.mane]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Neo|Johannes]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nils]]
*[[User:MarcW|Marc W]]

==[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]==
Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60 min + 15 min per member

Next Date: 2025-7-2, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[Jnafls|Johannnes]]
*[[Kjubik]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[Tomatensaft]]
*[[Gurkensaft]]
*[[Orangensaft]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nils]]

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser Cutter Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[MaKu]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Carsten]]
*[[User:JSqueezy|Jess]]
*Claus123

== [[Large Format Printer Introduction]] ==
Tutors:

* [[User:Björn|Björn]]

Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-5-22, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
* {{NL}}
* [[Didi]]

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Metal Lathe Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: 2-3h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
*[[User:BenKenobi|Benedict]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[LabCrow]]

== [[Sliding Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Sliding Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2026-7-24, 19:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:PhilippK|Philipp]]
*[[Volker]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:Mobell|Moritz B.]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[MobiTobi]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]] (no response, 2026-07-23)
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]] (no response, 2026-07-23)
*[[User:Johanna|Johanna]] (no response, 2026-07-23)
*[[User: Obi1Kenobi|Pablo]]

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2025-6-18 20:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[User:PhilippK|Philipp]]
*[[User: Obi1Kenobi|Pablo]]

== [[Vertical Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Vertical Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1.5 h

Next Date: 2025-6-25, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response 2024-3 & 2024-11)
*[[User:MarcW|Marc Werther]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[Nicolai]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[User: Obi1Kenobi|Pablo]]

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Woodturning Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 2,5 h + 30 min per person

Next Date: 2026-9-6, 15:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response July & Nov 2023)
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:Micha|Micha]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Joey|Joel A.]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[User: Obi1Kenobi|Pablo]]

[[Category:Introductions]]

Oscilloscope Introduction

2026-09-14T11:21:06Z

NitramLegov: Tutor Johannes

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Oscilloscope]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the [[Oscilloscope|machine's wiki page]] and manual.

== ⚠️ Safety ==
As with any electric device, avoid moisture or exposure to liquids, don't operate with opened/damaged housing.

[[PPE|Personal protection]]: No specific personal protection equipment needed

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| Electric Shock ||
* Only work on low voltage is permitted (AC ≤ '''50 V''', DC ≤ '''120 V''').
* Do not touch exposed circuits when measuring signals on an open device or PCB.
* Only use insulated probes and handles.
* Do not float the oscilloscope or attempt differential measurements with standard probes at hazardous voltages; use appropriate high‑voltage differential probes
|-
| High Voltages ||
* Never apply signals higher that the oscilloscope's and probe's ratings.
|}

== Suggested Reading ==
"How to not blow up your Oscilloscope": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaELqAo4kkQ

"How to use an Oscilloscope" by Sparkfun: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-an-oscilloscope/all

"Oscilloscope Fundamentals Primer" by Rohde & Schwarz:https://ethz.ch/content/dam/ethz/special-interest/chab/chab-dept/research/documents/LPC/oscilloscopefundamentals.pdf#page=1&zoom=50,-6,807

(German) "Die größte Seuche der Elektrotechnik" [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROM7s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROge.M7s] A video that explains common mode interference (''Gleichtaktstörungen'') and gives insight into why and how they are avoided.

Artikelserie "Moderne Oszilloskop-Meßtechnik" des ELV Journals (Teil 10 fehlt): <br>
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_04_14_messtechnik.pdf Teil 1],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_05_18_messtechnik.pdf Teil 2],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_06_10_messtechnik.pdf Teil 3],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_01_17_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 4],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_02_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 5],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_03_14_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 6],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_04_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 7],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_05_22_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 8],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_06_09_oszillo.pdf Teil 9],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_02_08_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 11],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_03_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 12],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_04_15_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 13],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_05_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 14],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_06_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 15]

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:

=== Preparation and power‑up ===
# '''Ground the instrument.''' Plug the oscilloscope into a grounded outlet. Ensure the instrument shares ground with the device under test - that usually means connecting GND of all connected devices to PE (Protective Earth)
# '''Power on.''' Use the front‑panel power switch to turn on the oscilloscope. Allow the device to boot and complete its self‑test.
# '''Reset to default setup.''' Press the DEFAULT button to restore the oscilloscope to a known configuration. This ensures standard settings for controls and avoids unexpected behaviour.

=== Connecting and compensating probes ===
# '''Select the channel and vertical scale.''' Press the CH 1 button to enable channel 1. Set the volts/div knob and the vertical position to mid‑range
# '''Attach the probe.''' Connect the passive probe’s BNC connector to the channel input. Attach the ground lead clip to a known ground on the oscilloscope or reference terminal
# '''Compensate the probe.''' Connect the probe tip to the scope’s built‑in square‑wave reference output. Adjust the probe’s compensation capacitor until the displayed square wave has flat tops and bottoms
# '''Repeat this for each channel.'''

=== Basic measurements ===

# '''Time base and triggering:''' Adjust the horizontal time/div knob to set the time scale; adjust the trigger level and trigger mode (Auto, Normal, Single) as needed. For repetitive signals, AUTOSET can help to automatically adjust time base, vertical scale and trigger.
# '''Voltage measurements:''' Use the cursors or built‑in measurement functions to display peak‑to‑peak voltage, RMS voltage, frequency and other parameters.
# '''Multiple channels:''' Enable additional channels (CH 2–CH 4) to compare signals and measure phase differences or timing relationships. Use the Math menu to subtract signals or calculate FFTs.
# '''Digital channels and serial decoding (optional):''' Use the digital inputs to capture up to 16 logic channels and decode I²C, SPI, UART, CAN or LIN protocols. The Serial menu allows you to assign channels and view decoded data.

=== Saving and exporting data ===

* Insert a USB flash drive into one of the front USB ports. Use the Save/Recall menu to save waveform snapshots, setups or CSV data for further analysis.
* For remote operation, connect an Ethernet cable to the RJ45 port. Open a web browser and enter the oscilloscope’s IP address to access the built‑in web server, which allows live control, screen capture and file transfers.

[[Category:Introductions]]

Computers

2026-09-14T11:20:14Z

NitramLegov: Standard Setup documentation

Computers (or PCs) are used in the space at various locations. Most of our members bring their own laptops, but we have dedicated PCs available for operating certain machines, such as the [[3D Printers]] or the [[Laser Cutter]]. For seminars, we have a selection of Laptops available which can be used flexibly.

== Standard Setup ==
The CoMakingSpace standard setup is based on a recent Windows installation. Using an autounattend.xml generated by [https://schneegans.de/windows/unattend-generator/ schneegans.de]. With this, the following customization is applied (only the important settings are mentioned):

* Language set to english, german keyboard layout
* Time Zone set to Berlin
* Local only accounts are created
** Admin, password protected (Ask {{IT-manager}} if you need it)
** Maker, no password
* No Password expiration
* Only protected operating system files are hidden in explorer
* Always show file extensions
* RDP is enabled
* CoMakingSpace WiFi is setup
* Software is getting installed using winget
** Mozilla Firefox
** Google Chrome
** OnlyOffice
** GIMP
** Inkscape
** KiCad
** Winget Auto Updater
* Chrome and Firefox settings are applied
** Skip the first run tour
** Never check for the default browser
** Disable Password manager
** Clear History, etc. on shutdown
* Windows Updates are applied including driver and optional updates

Dependent on the Type of Computer (Seminar Laptop, Laser PC, Photo PC), some settings are different:

* Browser start page
** Seminar Laptop
*** <nowiki>https://wiki.comakingspace.de/Computers</nowiki>
** Laser PC
*** <nowiki>https://wiki.comakingspace.de/Laser_Cutter</nowiki>
*** <nowiki>https://wiki.comakingspace.de/Laser_Cutter_Material_Settings</nowiki>
*** <nowiki>https://wiki.comakingspace.de/LaserCut_5.3</nowiki>
** Photo PC
*** <nowiki>https://wiki.comakingspace.de/Large_Format_Printer</nowiki>
*** <nowiki>https://wiki.comakingspace.de/Large_Format_Printer_Introduction</nowiki>

=== Known Bugs ===

* Optional and Driver Updates are currently not being installed
* For some reason, Canva does not get installed

{{MachineInclusion}}

Frame Saw

2026-09-14T08:39:35Z

NitramLegov: Add InfoBox

{{ToolInfoBox|tool name=Frame Saw|german=Spannsäge|image=Frame saw.jpg|synonyms=DE: Gestellsäge, Spannsäge, Klobsäge|material=[[Wood]]}}

A frame saw is a manually operated saw with a narrow, tensioned blade held in a wooden or metal frame. It is useful for making controlled straight or curved cuts in wood.

== Safety ==

* Always make sure the workpiece is '''securely held''' before starting to cut.
* Keep both hands on the saw frame and maintain a firm, controlled grip.
* Keep your fingers and other body parts '''clear of the blade and its path'''.
* Never put your hand in front of or behind the blade while cutting.
* Make sure there is sufficient clearance below the workpiece so that the blade cannot hit the workbench or other objects.
* Do not force the saw. Let the teeth do the cutting.
* Keep the saw blade properly tensioned. A loose blade can wander, buckle or break.
* Do not use a damaged, bent or excessively dull blade.
* Wear safety goggles when there is a risk of flying chips or when working with brittle materials.
* Secure long or awkward workpieces so that they cannot move unexpectedly.
* Keep the workspace clear so that the saw frame can move freely.

== Using the Saw ==

# Secure the workpiece firmly.
# Mark the cut clearly.
# Position the saw so that the blade is aligned with the cut.
# Start with a few '''light, controlled strokes''' to establish the cut.
# Once the blade is tracking properly, use longer strokes while maintaining a steady rhythm.
# Keep the blade approximately perpendicular to the workpiece unless the cut requires another angle.
# Use light pressure on the forward cutting stroke and let the blade return without forcing it.
# For curved cuts, rotate the workpiece or saw gradually rather than twisting the blade sideways.
# Towards the end of the cut, reduce pressure to prevent the workpiece or the remaining material from breaking unexpectedly.

== Blade Selection ==
Use a blade appropriate for the material and type of cut.

* '''Coarser teeth:''' faster cutting and better suited to thicker material.
* '''Finer teeth:''' slower cutting but generally better for thinner material and cleaner cuts.
* Make sure the blade is suitable for the material being cut.
* Replace the blade when it is dull, damaged or no longer cuts cleanly.

== Maintenance ==
The frame saw requires little maintenance.

* Remove sawdust and chips after use.
* Check the blade regularly for damage and excessive wear.
* Check that the blade is properly tensioned.
* Keep the frame, tensioning mechanism and handles clean and dry.
* Do not overtension the blade, as this can damage the frame or blade.

== Storage ==

* Release excessive blade tension if the saw will not be used for an extended period.
* Store the saw in a dry place.
* Protect the blade from impacts and other tools.
* Keep sharp blades away from areas where they could accidentally be grabbed.

== Common Problems ==
'''The blade wanders from the marked line'''

* Check the blade tension.
* Make sure the blade is sharp and appropriate for the material.
* Avoid pushing the saw sideways.
* Start the cut slowly and establish a clean kerf before increasing the stroke length.

'''The cut is difficult or very slow'''

* Check whether the blade is dull.
* Use a coarser or otherwise more suitable blade for thicker material.
* Make sure the blade is properly tensioned.
* Do not compensate for a dull blade by applying excessive force.

'''The blade gets stuck'''

* Stop applying force immediately.
* Carefully release the pressure and remove the saw from the kerf if possible.
* Check whether the cut is closing due to internal stresses in the wood.
* Do not twist or force the blade sideways.

Handheld Circular Saw Introduction

2026-09-12T17:59:52Z

NitramLegov: Tutor Neo

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Handheld Circular Saws|handheld circular saws]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]], [[Tutor::User:Sebastian|Sebastian]],
[[Tutor::User:no.shoes|Niklas]],
[[Tutor::User:Neo|Neo]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual:
* [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1311650/Festool-Ts-75-Ebq.html Festool TS 75 EBQ] (plunge saw)

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]]

(a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]] could also be necessary depending on your material)

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| sharp and rotating exposed blade - will keep spinning for a bit after turning the power off! ||
* keep the saw secure after your cut until is has come to a complete stop
* make sure the cutting path is free of obstacles (except your workpiece of course)
|-
| kickback: if the blade binds with the material it can push the saw back towards the user - this usually happens when the blade is pinched or the saw is started while already touching the wood (see [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdW7vhYYSdM video]) ||
* let the saw start '''before''' the blade touches the workpiece
* '''[[Plunge Saw|plunge saw]] (Festool TS 75):'''
** when doing a plunge cut, make sure the rail/workpiece can't move sideways. This could cause the blade to bind and kickback.
** attach the endstop to the rail to reduce the chance of kickback
** use an appropriately sized riving knife ''(DE: Spaltkeil)'' for the blade you're using
|-
| sawdust and small splinters can fly towards the operator and others ||
* hook up a [[Shop Vac|shop vac]], taking care that the hose can move freely when you push the saw
* wear [[goggles]]
* [[Dust Mask|dust mask]]: depending on the material you're cutting
|}

Whenever you are cutting larger pieces, get a helper who can hold your cutoff so it doesn't fall down!

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
* using the proper [[Circular Saw Guide|circular saw guide]]

'''Festool TS 75:'''
* change cutting angle
* change cutting depth

{{#set:
| checklist_title=Circular Saw
| checklist_symbols=M004
| checklist_symbols=M003
| checklist_symbols=M002
| checklist_symbols=M016
| checklist_link=https://wiki.comakingspace.de/index.php?title=Circular_Saw_Introduction
| checklist_before=**Must** check that path underneath the saw is clear (no table, floor, etc)
| checklist_before=**Should not** plunge into workpiece unless necessary (kickback)
| checklist_before=**Must** check blade height
| checklist_before=Think about your setup once the cut-off is removed (can it tip/fall?)
| checklist_during=**Must** make sure the rail can't slide
| checklist_after=Put Festool saw back into systainer and underneath the chop saw
}}

[[Category:Introductions]]

Siglent SDS814X HD

2026-09-12T17:52:56Z

NitramLegov: /* Siglent SDS814X HD */ Commissioning done

Archived:Rigol DS1102CD

2026-09-12T17:52:19Z

NitramLegov: NitramLegov moved page Rigol DS1102CD to Archived:Rigol DS1102CD without leaving a redirect: Gone

==Rigol DS1102CD==

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Rigol DS1102CD
|german=Oszilloskop
|image=Rigol_DS1022CD.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Oszilloskop
|type=Oscilloscope
|material=
|manual=[https://res.cloudinary.com/iwh/image/upload/q_auto,g_center/assets/1/26/Documents/Rigol/rigol_ds1000_manual.pdf Cloudinary]
|assetid=11
|used with=
|similar=
}}

We have a Rigol DS1022CD which was upgraded to a DS1102CD in order to increase the bandwidth.

===Specs===
The exact specs can be found in the manual, this is just meant to serve as a rough overview.
*Dual Channel, 100 MHz bandwidth
*Easy one-touch AUTO function
*Adjustable triggers: Edge, Video, Pulse width, Slope, Alternative, Pattern and Duration
*16 optional digital channels
*320x234 TFT LCD
*Digital filters: LPF, HPF, BPF, BRF

===List of Accessories===
coming soon

[[Category:Electronics]]

Read the Wiki Page

2026-09-12T16:42:22Z

NitramLegov: Remove Oscilloscope

This page serves as a placeholder to indicate that a machine does not need a specific [[introduction]] because it is either a regular household machine (like ovens) or a very low-risk machine.

If you want to use the machine, please go back to the machine's page, read it carefully and then start making your awesome project!

{{#set:
Introduction for=Function_Generator
|Introduction for=Spin Dryer
|Introduction for=Oven
|Introduction for=Freezer
|Introduction for=Fridge
|Introduction for=Laminator
|Introduction for=Shop Vac
|Introduction for=Flatiron
|Introduction for=Lab Power Supplies
|Introduction for=Laser Printer
|Introduction for=Coffeemaker
|Introduction for=Multimeters
|Introduction for=Computers
|Introduction for=Televisions
|Introduction for=Projector
|Introduction for=Dust Extractors
|Introduction for=Infrared Heater
}}

Oscilloscope Introduction

2026-09-12T16:41:47Z

NitramLegov: Remove incomplete notice

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Oscilloscope]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: '''(TUTORS TO BE ADDED)'''

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the [[Oscilloscope|machine's wiki page]] and manual.

== ⚠️ Safety ==
As with any electric device, avoid moisture or exposure to liquids, don't operate with opened/damaged housing.

[[PPE|Personal protection]]: No specific personal protection equipment needed

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| Electric Shock ||
* Only work on low voltage is permitted (AC ≤ '''50 V''', DC ≤ '''120 V''').
* Do not touch exposed circuits when measuring signals on an open device or PCB.
* Only use insulated probes and handles.
* Do not float the oscilloscope or attempt differential measurements with standard probes at hazardous voltages; use appropriate high‑voltage differential probes
|-
| High Voltages ||
* Never apply signals higher that the oscilloscope's and probe's ratings.
|}

== Suggested Reading ==
"How to not blow up your Oscilloscope": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaELqAo4kkQ

"How to use an Oscilloscope" by Sparkfun: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-an-oscilloscope/all

"Oscilloscope Fundamentals Primer" by Rohde & Schwarz:https://ethz.ch/content/dam/ethz/special-interest/chab/chab-dept/research/documents/LPC/oscilloscopefundamentals.pdf#page=1&zoom=50,-6,807

(German) "Die größte Seuche der Elektrotechnik" [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROM7s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROge.M7s] A video that explains common mode interference (''Gleichtaktstörungen'') and gives insight into why and how they are avoided.

Artikelserie "Moderne Oszilloskop-Meßtechnik" des ELV Journals (Teil 10 fehlt): <br>
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_04_14_messtechnik.pdf Teil 1],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_05_18_messtechnik.pdf Teil 2],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_06_10_messtechnik.pdf Teil 3],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_01_17_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 4],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_02_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 5],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_03_14_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 6],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_04_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 7],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_05_22_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 8],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_06_09_oszillo.pdf Teil 9],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_02_08_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 11],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_03_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 12],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_04_15_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 13],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_05_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 14],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_06_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 15]

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:

=== Preparation and power‑up ===
# '''Ground the instrument.''' Plug the oscilloscope into a grounded outlet. Ensure the instrument shares ground with the device under test - that usually means connecting GND of all connected devices to PE (Protective Earth)
# '''Power on.''' Use the front‑panel power switch to turn on the oscilloscope. Allow the device to boot and complete its self‑test.
# '''Reset to default setup.''' Press the DEFAULT button to restore the oscilloscope to a known configuration. This ensures standard settings for controls and avoids unexpected behaviour.

=== Connecting and compensating probes ===
# '''Select the channel and vertical scale.''' Press the CH 1 button to enable channel 1. Set the volts/div knob and the vertical position to mid‑range
# '''Attach the probe.''' Connect the passive probe’s BNC connector to the channel input. Attach the ground lead clip to a known ground on the oscilloscope or reference terminal
# '''Compensate the probe.''' Connect the probe tip to the scope’s built‑in square‑wave reference output. Adjust the probe’s compensation capacitor until the displayed square wave has flat tops and bottoms
# '''Repeat this for each channel.'''

=== Basic measurements ===

# '''Time base and triggering:''' Adjust the horizontal time/div knob to set the time scale; adjust the trigger level and trigger mode (Auto, Normal, Single) as needed. For repetitive signals, AUTOSET can help to automatically adjust time base, vertical scale and trigger.
# '''Voltage measurements:''' Use the cursors or built‑in measurement functions to display peak‑to‑peak voltage, RMS voltage, frequency and other parameters.
# '''Multiple channels:''' Enable additional channels (CH 2–CH 4) to compare signals and measure phase differences or timing relationships. Use the Math menu to subtract signals or calculate FFTs.
# '''Digital channels and serial decoding (optional):''' Use the digital inputs to capture up to 16 logic channels and decode I²C, SPI, UART, CAN or LIN protocols. The Serial menu allows you to assign channels and view decoded data.

=== Saving and exporting data ===

* Insert a USB flash drive into one of the front USB ports. Use the Save/Recall menu to save waveform snapshots, setups or CSV data for further analysis.
* For remote operation, connect an Ethernet cable to the RJ45 port. Open a web browser and enter the oscilloscope’s IP address to access the built‑in web server, which allows live control, screen capture and file transfers.

[[Category:Introductions]]

Greggersen Ergomax Plus

2026-09-09T19:20:52Z

NitramLegov: /* Greggersen Ergomax */

==Greggersen Ergomax==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Greggersen Ergomax
|german=Hartlötgerät
|image=Ergomax.jpeg
|synonyms=Gaz brazing torch, Brazing burner, Lötbrenner
|manual=[https://www.kaeltetechnik-shop.at/mediafiles/Sonstiges/Greggersen/Greggersen_IND_Bedienungsanleitung_Ergomax_Plus.pdf Manual]
|material=Copper, Brass, Bronze, Iron, Steel
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}
Das Gerät dient zum Hartlöten, d.h. es wird ein Silberlot (und ein Flussmittel) benötigt. Während ein kleiner Propanbrenner bis 1000°C erreicht, werden hier infolge der Sauerstoffzufuhr bis zu 2500°C möglich. Das Material muss zum Löten aber nur auf c.a. 800 °C erhitzt werden.<br>
'''[[File:Hartlöten-Einführung.pdf]]'''<br>
'''[[File:Makerspace_Einweisung_Greggersen_Ergomax_Plus_Propan-v2.pdf]]'''<br>
'''[[File:Greggersen_Ergomax_Plus_Wiki.pdf]]'''<br>
'''Zusammenfassung der Bedienungsanleitung''' (ohne Gewähr):<br>
'''Handhabung vor dem Zünden''': Die Bestückung des Gerätes ist variabel, d.h. es können verschiedene Einsätze (Düsen) gewählt werden, je nachdem welche Größe die Flamme haben soll. Beim Transport soll der Druckminderer von der Flasche getrennt werden.
Flaschen senkrecht mit dem Ventil nach oben stellen.
Schlauch komplett abrollen. Flaschenventile langsam öffnen und Sauerstoffdruck einstellen.<br>
'''Zünden:''' Zuerst das Sauerstoffventil und dann das Brenngasventil öffnen. Dann Zündfunken erzeugen (kein Feuerzeug verwenden!). Mit dem Brenngasventil nachregulieren, bis ein scharf um rissener blau-grüner Kegel sichtbar wird.<br>
'''Abstellen:''' Zuerst das Brenngas-, dann das Sauerstoffventil schließen.
Nach Beendigung der Arbeit Flaschenventile schließen; Schläuche durch kurzes Öffnen der Brennerventile entlasten.<br>
'''Befüllen der kleinen Propangasflasche:''' mittels des Umfüllstutzens. Die Vorratsflasche muss auf dem Kopf stehend stabil aufgehängt werden, erst dann wird die Schutzkappe entfernt und der Umfüllstutzen befestigt.<br>
'''Befüllen der Sauerstoffflasche:''' Deren Ventile müssen fett- und staubfrei sein. Verbindung über speziellen Umfüllstutzen. Kleine Flasche öffnen, dann langsam die große Flasche öffnen.<br><br>
'''Der Druckminderer''' sorgt dafür, dass auf der Ausgangsseite ein bestimmter Ausgangsdruck nicht überschritten wird. Er hat ein Manometer, welches den Flaschendruck zeigt, und ein weiteres Manometer, das den Ausgangsdruck zeigt. An der Einstellschraube lässt sich der Ausgangsdruck einstellen.<br>
'''Druckminderer-Funktionsschaubild:''' https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1a/Druckregler.png

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=452
|Naming=Done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=Done
|PictureComment=
|Manual=Done
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=In progress
|DocumentationComment=This Page - possibly translate to english when done
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=[[Hartlötgerät Einweisung]]
|Security=
|SecurityComment=
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=To be done by Martin
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

Hartlötgerät Einweisung

2026-09-09T19:18:47Z

NitramLegov: Initial Creation

{{Incomplete}}

{{Übersetzung
|Stand=2026-09-09
|Original=Hard Soldering Introduction
}}

== Sicherheit ==
[[PPE|Persönliche Schutzausrüstung:]] [[File:Protection_-_welding_mask.svg|50x50px]][[File:Protection_-_goggles.svg|50x50px]][[File:Protection_-_gloves.svg|50x50px]][[File:Protection_-_protective_clothing.svg|50x50px]]
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Gefahren !! Vorsichtsmaßnahmen
|-
|
|
|}

== Demonstration ==
Der Tutor zeigt in der Einweisung folgende Schritte:

*

[[Category:Einweisungen]]

Greggersen Ergomax Plus

2026-09-09T19:06:35Z

NitramLegov: Commissioning update

==Greggersen Ergomax==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Greggersen Ergomax
|german=Hartlötgerät
|image=Ergomax.jpeg
|synonyms=Gaz brazing torch, Brazing burner, Lötbrenner
|manual=[https://www.kaeltetechnik-shop.at/mediafiles/Sonstiges/Greggersen/Greggersen_IND_Bedienungsanleitung_Ergomax_Plus.pdf Manual]
|material=Copper, Brass, Bronze, Iron, Steel
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}
Das Gerät dient zum Hartlöten, d.h. es wird ein Silberlot (und ein Flussmittel) benötigt. Während ein kleiner Propanbrenner bis 1000°C erreicht, werden hier infolge der Sauerstoffzufuhr bis zu 2500°C möglich. Das Material muss zum Löten aber nur auf c.a. 800 °C erhitzt werden.<br>
'''[[File:Hartlöten-Einführung.pdf]]'''<br>
'''[[File:Makerspace_Einweisung_Greggersen_Ergomax_Plus_Propan-v2.pdf]]'''<br>
'''[[File:Greggersen_Ergomax_Plus_Wiki.pdf]]'''<br>
'''Zusammenfassung der Bedienungsanleitung''' (ohne Gewähr):<br>
'''Handhabung vor dem Zünden''': Die Bestückung des Gerätes ist variabel, d.h. es können verschiedene Einsätze (Düsen) gewählt werden, je nachdem welche Größe die Flamme haben soll. Beim Transport soll der Druckminderer von der Flasche getrennt werden.
Flaschen senkrecht mit dem Ventil nach oben stellen.
Schlauch komplett abrollen. Flaschenventile langsam öffnen und Sauerstoffdruck einstellen.<br>
'''Zünden:''' Zuerst das Sauerstoffventil und dann das Brenngasventil öffnen. Dann Zündfunken erzeugen (kein Feuerzeug verwenden!). Mit dem Brenngasventil nachregulieren, bis ein scharf um rissener blau-grüner Kegel sichtbar wird.<br>
'''Abstellen:''' Zuerst das Brenngas-, dann das Sauerstoffventil schließen.
Nach Beendigung der Arbeit Flaschenventile schließen; Schläuche durch kurzes Öffnen der Brennerventile entlasten.<br>
'''Befüllen der kleinen Propangasflasche:''' mittels des Umfüllstutzens. Die Vorratsflasche muss auf dem Kopf stehend stabil aufgehängt werden, erst dann wird die Schutzkappe entfernt und der Umfüllstutzen befestigt.<br>
'''Befüllen der Sauerstoffflasche:''' Deren Ventile müssen fett- und staubfrei sein. Verbindung über speziellen Umfüllstutzen. Kleine Flasche öffnen, dann langsam die große Flasche öffnen.<br><br>
'''Der Druckminderer''' sorgt dafür, dass auf der Ausgangsseite ein bestimmter Ausgangsdruck nicht überschritten wird. Er hat ein Manometer, welches den Flaschendruck zeigt, und ein weiteres Manometer, das den Ausgangsdruck zeigt. An der Einstellschraube lässt sich der Ausgangsdruck einstellen.<br>
'''Druckminderer-Funktionsschaubild:''' https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1a/Druckregler.png

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=452
|Naming=Done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=Done
|PictureComment=
|Manual=Done
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=In progress
|DocumentationComment=This Page - possibly translate to english when done
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=
|Security=
|SecurityComment=
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=To be done by Martin
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

Greggersen Ergomax

2026-09-09T19:03:22Z

NitramLegov: NitramLegov moved page Greggersen Ergomax to Greggersen Ergomax Plus

#REDIRECT [[Greggersen Ergomax Plus]]

Greggersen Ergomax Plus

2026-09-09T19:03:22Z

NitramLegov: NitramLegov moved page Greggersen Ergomax to Greggersen Ergomax Plus

==Greggersen Ergomax==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Greggersen Ergomax
|german=Hartlötgerät
|image=Ergomax.jpeg
|synonyms=Gaz brazing torch, Brazing burner, Lötbrenner
|manual=[https://www.kaeltetechnik-shop.at/mediafiles/Sonstiges/Greggersen/Greggersen_IND_Bedienungsanleitung_Ergomax_Plus.pdf Manual]
|material=Copper, Brass, Bronze, Iron, Steel
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}
Das Gerät dient zum Hartlöten, d.h. es wird ein Silberlot (und ein Flussmittel) benötigt. Während ein kleiner Propanbrenner bis 1000°C erreicht, werden hier infolge der Sauerstoffzufuhr bis zu 2500°C möglich. Das Material muss zum Löten aber nur auf c.a. 800 °C erhitzt werden.<br>
'''[[File:Hartlöten-Einführung.pdf]]'''<br>
'''[[File:Makerspace_Einweisung_Greggersen_Ergomax_Plus_Propan-v2.pdf]]'''<br>
'''[[File:Greggersen_Ergomax_Plus_Wiki.pdf]]'''<br>
'''Zusammenfassung der Bedienungsanleitung''' (ohne Gewähr):<br>
'''Handhabung vor dem Zünden''': Die Bestückung des Gerätes ist variabel, d.h. es können verschiedene Einsätze (Düsen) gewählt werden, je nachdem welche Größe die Flamme haben soll. Beim Transport soll der Druckminderer von der Flasche getrennt werden.
Flaschen senkrecht mit dem Ventil nach oben stellen.
Schlauch komplett abrollen. Flaschenventile langsam öffnen und Sauerstoffdruck einstellen.<br>
'''Zünden:''' Zuerst das Sauerstoffventil und dann das Brenngasventil öffnen. Dann Zündfunken erzeugen (kein Feuerzeug verwenden!). Mit dem Brenngasventil nachregulieren, bis ein scharf um rissener blau-grüner Kegel sichtbar wird.<br>
'''Abstellen:''' Zuerst das Brenngas-, dann das Sauerstoffventil schließen.
Nach Beendigung der Arbeit Flaschenventile schließen; Schläuche durch kurzes Öffnen der Brennerventile entlasten.<br>
'''Befüllen der kleinen Propangasflasche:''' mittels des Umfüllstutzens. Die Vorratsflasche muss auf dem Kopf stehend stabil aufgehängt werden, erst dann wird die Schutzkappe entfernt und der Umfüllstutzen befestigt.<br>
'''Befüllen der Sauerstoffflasche:''' Deren Ventile müssen fett- und staubfrei sein. Verbindung über speziellen Umfüllstutzen. Kleine Flasche öffnen, dann langsam die große Flasche öffnen.<br><br>
'''Der Druckminderer''' sorgt dafür, dass auf der Ausgangsseite ein bestimmter Ausgangsdruck nicht überschritten wird. Er hat ein Manometer, welches den Flaschendruck zeigt, und ein weiteres Manometer, das den Ausgangsdruck zeigt. An der Einstellschraube lässt sich der Ausgangsdruck einstellen.<br>
'''Druckminderer-Funktionsschaubild:''' https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1a/Druckregler.png

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=452
|Naming=
|NamingComment=
|Picture=
|PictureComment=
|Manual=
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=
|Security=
|SecurityComment=
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1

2026-09-06T18:16:29Z

NitramLegov: Commissioning update

==Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|german=Overlock-Nähmaschine
|image=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Overlock-Nähmaschine
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html manualslib]
|material=[[Material:Fabric|Fabric]], [[Material:Thread|Thread]]
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=223
}}

=== Settings and consumables ===
{| class="wikitable"
! Property
! Range or type
|-
| Threads
| 2, 3 or 4
|-
| Needles
| 1 or 2; HA × 1 No. 11–14 or 130/705 No. 75–90
|-
| Stitch length
| 1–4 mm
|-
| Seam width
| Right needle: 3.0–4.5 mm; left needle: 5.2–6.7 mm
|-
| Differential feed
| 1:0.7–1:2.0
|}

=== Threading ===
For a complete 4-thread setup, thread the machine in this order:

# upper looper — red
# lower looper — yellow
# right needle — green
# left needle — blue

Refer to the manual ([https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html?page=10#manual page 10], if you need to thread from scratch, [https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html?page=17#manual page 17], if you need to change once specific thread). A visual explanation can be found on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mpv7XRngp-0 YouTube].

=== Basic use ===
# Extend the thread stand fully and fit the waste container.
# Check the threading, needle position, knife position and selected settings.
# Make a test seam on a scrap of the same fabric. Adjust one setting at a time using the tables in the manual.
# Lower the presser foot and guide the fabric edge towards the knife. Let the feed dogs move the fabric.
# At the end of the seam, continue sewing until a thread chain of approximately 5 cm has formed.
# Switch off the machine and remove fabric scraps and loose threads.

=== Cleaning and maintenance ===
Unplug the machine before cleaning or maintenance.

* Regularly remove lint and fabric scraps from the looper and knife area with the supplied brush.
* Wipe the exterior with a slightly damp cloth.
* Lubricate only the points shown in the manual and use sewing-machine oil only.
* Stop using the machine and report the problem if a needle or knife is damaged, the machine jams or it no longer cuts cleanly.
{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=Done
|NamingComment=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|Picture=Done
|PictureComment=current picture is okay, but better one would be prefered
|Manual=Done
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=Check [[Sewing Machine Introduction]] on whether it needs to be updated
|Security=
|SecurityComment=
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=Done
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1

2026-09-06T18:11:41Z

NitramLegov: Add Asset ID

==Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|german=Overlock-Nähmaschine
|image=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Overlock-Nähmaschine
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html manualslib]
|material=[[Material:Fabric|Fabric]], [[Material:Thread|Thread]]
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=223
}}

=== Settings and consumables ===
{| class="wikitable"
! Property
! Range or type
|-
| Threads
| 2, 3 or 4
|-
| Needles
| 1 or 2; HA × 1 No. 11–14 or 130/705 No. 75–90
|-
| Stitch length
| 1–4 mm
|-
| Seam width
| Right needle: 3.0–4.5 mm; left needle: 5.2–6.7 mm
|-
| Differential feed
| 1:0.7–1:2.0
|}

=== Threading ===
For a complete 4-thread setup, thread the machine in this order:

# upper looper — red
# lower looper — yellow
# right needle — green
# left needle — blue

Refer to the manual ([https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html?page=10#manual page 10], if you need to thread from scratch, [https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html?page=17#manual page 17], if you need to change once specific thread). A visual explanation can be found on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mpv7XRngp-0 YouTube].

=== Basic use ===
# Extend the thread stand fully and fit the waste container.
# Check the threading, needle position, knife position and selected settings.
# Make a test seam on a scrap of the same fabric. Adjust one setting at a time using the tables in the manual.
# Lower the presser foot and guide the fabric edge towards the knife. Let the feed dogs move the fabric.
# At the end of the seam, continue sewing until a thread chain of approximately 5 cm has formed.
# Switch off the machine and remove fabric scraps and loose threads.

=== Cleaning and maintenance ===
Unplug the machine before cleaning or maintenance.

* Regularly remove lint and fabric scraps from the looper and knife area with the supplied brush.
* Wipe the exterior with a slightly damp cloth.
* Lubricate only the points shown in the manual and use sewing-machine oil only.
* Stop using the machine and report the problem if a needle or knife is damaged, the machine jams or it no longer cuts cleanly.
{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=Done
|NamingComment=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|Picture=Done
|PictureComment=current picture is okay, but better one would be prefered
|Manual=Done
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=
|Security=
|SecurityComment=
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=Done
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1

2026-08-28T07:22:13Z

NitramLegov: Content draft

==Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|german=Overlock-Nähmaschine
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Overlock-Nähmaschine
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html manualslib]
|material=[[Material:Fabric|Fabric]], [[Material:Thread|Thread]]
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}

=== Settings and consumables ===
{| class="wikitable"
! Property
! Range or type
|-
| Threads
| 2, 3 or 4
|-
| Needles
| 1 or 2; HA × 1 No. 11–14 or 130/705 No. 75–90
|-
| Stitch length
| 1–4 mm
|-
| Seam width
| Right needle: 3.0–4.5 mm; left needle: 5.2–6.7 mm
|-
| Differential feed
| 1:0.7–1:2.0
|}

=== Threading ===
For a complete 4-thread setup, thread the machine in this order:

# upper looper — red
# lower looper — yellow
# right needle — green
# left needle — blue

Refer to the manual ([https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html?page=10#manual page 10], if you need to thread from scratch, [https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html?page=17#manual page 17], if you need to change once specific thread). A visual explanation can be found on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mpv7XRngp-0 YouTube].

=== Basic use ===
# Extend the thread stand fully and fit the waste container.
# Check the threading, needle position, knife position and selected settings.
# Make a test seam on a scrap of the same fabric. Adjust one setting at a time using the tables in the manual.
# Lower the presser foot and guide the fabric edge towards the knife. Let the feed dogs move the fabric.
# At the end of the seam, continue sewing until a thread chain of approximately 5 cm has formed.
# Switch off the machine and remove fabric scraps and loose threads.

=== Cleaning and maintenance ===
Unplug the machine before cleaning or maintenance.

* Regularly remove lint and fabric scraps from the looper and knife area with the supplied brush.
* Wipe the exterior with a slightly damp cloth.
* Lubricate only the points shown in the manual and use sewing-machine oil only.
* Stop using the machine and report the problem if a needle or knife is damaged, the machine jams or it no longer cuts cleanly.
{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=Done
|NamingComment=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|Picture=
|PictureComment=
|Manual=
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=
|Security=
|SecurityComment=
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

Sewing Machines

2026-08-27T11:12:48Z

NitramLegov: Remove Overlock part, which is now on a separate page

With a sewing machine, you can [[Sewing|sew]] different [[fabrics]] to each other. This is especially useful for making/changing clothes, bags, curtains or similar things.

<br clear="all" />

{{#ask:
[[MachineType::Sewing Machine]]
|order=ascending
|format=embedded
|embedonly=yes
}}

<br clear="all" />

[[Category:Sewing]]

Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1

2026-08-27T09:16:06Z

NitramLegov: /* Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1 */

Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1

2026-08-27T09:12:18Z

NitramLegov: Creation of the stub

==Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|german=
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=Done
|NamingComment=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|Picture=
|PictureComment=
|Manual=
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=
|Security=
|SecurityComment=
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

Category:AI-Slop

2026-08-23T19:34:36Z

NitramLegov:

This is a category for pages which have likely been created purely by some LLM and copy-pasted into the wiki without review or editing.

These pages need to be reviewed and adjusted.

[[Category:Maintenance Categories]]

Wire Rope Pullers & Wire Rope Shears

2026-08-23T19:30:54Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Wire Rope Pullers & Cutters
|german= Kabelzieher und Kabelschneider
|image= Cablecutter.jpg
|synonyms="cable pullers"/"cable cutters"; DE:Kabelzieher und Kabelschneider
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<h1 style="color: #1a365d; border-bottom: 2px solid #e2e8f0; padding-bottom: 8px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-top: 0;">Eldi Cable Pullers & Cable Cutters</h1>

<p style="font-size: 1.1em; color: #4a5568; font-family: sans-serif;">This entry covers professional workshop pliers designed by <strong>Eldi</strong> for tensioning, cutting, and securing bicycle brake and derailleur cables (Bowden cables).</p>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #3182ce; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2b6cb0; font-size: 1.17em;">1. Fourth-Hand Cable Stretcher / Puller (Green & Red Straight Handles)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Tool Type:</strong> Inner Cable Tensioner / "Fourth Hand" Tool.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Function:</strong> Used to grip and pull inner stainless steel cables taut with high leverage while keeping one hand free to tighten the anchor bolt on the brake caliper or derailleur.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Key Feature:</strong> Equipped with a spring-loaded locking ratchet/lever that holds the cable tension automatically, ensuring precise brake and shifting setup.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 32px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #4a5568; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #4a5568; font-size: 1.17em;">2. Heavy-Duty Wire & Cable Cutters (Red Shaped Handles)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Tool Type:</strong> Bicycle-Specific Cable & Housing Cutter.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Design Feature:</strong> Features curved, overlapping shearing blades (shear-cut style) rather than standard diagonal cutting jaws.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Function:</strong> Delivers clean, square cuts on tough outer spiral-wound brake housing and linear-strand shifter housing without crushing or fraying the inner steel wires.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="background: #fffaf0; border: 1px solid #feebc8; border-radius: 4px; padding: 16px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-bottom: 20px;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #dd6b20; font-size: 1.17em;">Workshop Practice Tips</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; color: #744210;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 6px;"><strong>Blade Maintenance:</strong> Never use bicycle cable cutters to cut hardened steel spokes or master link pins, as this will instantly chip or dull the specialized shearing blades.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0;"><strong>Housing Prep:</strong> Always use a pick or awl to open up the inner plastic liner of the cable housing after cutting to ensure frictionless cable movement.</li>
</ul>
</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Wheel Truing Stands

2026-08-23T19:30:37Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Wheel Truing Stands
|german=Radzentrierständer
|synonyms=bicycle truing stands; DE: Radzentrierständer, Zentrierständer, Fahrrad-Zentrierständer
|image= Wheel_Truing_Stand_–_Preciray_.jpg
|type=workholding, measuring
|status=
|material=[[bicycle]] wheels
|used with=[[Spoke Key|spoke key]]
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=read this page
|tutors=
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=''Zentrierlehre''
}}
Wheel truing stands are used to construct or repair [[bicycle]] wheels that run "true" (centered and without wobble).

Here are a nice [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tP3uAy1YQpQ video tutorial] and a [https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-and-rim-truing blog post] that may help first-time users!

== Preciray Type B ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Preciray Type B
|german=Fahrrad-Zentrierstäder
|image= Wheel_Truing_Stand_–_Preciray_.jpg
|status=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=read this page
|tutors=
|manual=
|extrabox=yes
}}

<p>The <strong>Preciray Type B</strong> is an extremely robust, heavy-duty professional wheel truing stand built for continuous workshop use. This tool was specifically designed for high-volume wheel building, truing, and straightening in bicycle factories, frame builder workshops, and racing teams. Its defining feature is a purely mechanical needle gauge that displays lateral and radial runout simultaneously with a significant magnification.</p>

<h3>Technical Specifications & Features</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Manufacturer:</strong> Ateliers J. Martin (Belgium), historically also distributed via VAR (France).</li>
<li><strong>Weight:</strong> Approx. 25 kg (solid cast iron/steel construction for absolute stability and zero vibration).</li>
<li><strong>Design:</strong> Vertical, synchronously adjustable support arms to accommodate different hub widths.</li>
<li><strong>Measurement Principle:</strong> Purely mechanical via roller feelers and lever linkages (no failure-prone electronics).</li>
</ul>

<h3>How It Works & Key Features</h3>
<p>Unlike modern standard truing stands, where the mechanic visually checks the rim against scraping edges or reads dial indicators, the Preciray utilizes a unique, analog needle display system.</p>

<ol>
<li><strong>Simultaneous Measurement:</strong> Two ball-bearing roller feelers run directly on the rim shoulder (therefore, it is ideally used on bare rims without tires installed).</li>
<li><strong>Mechanical Leverage:</strong> The rollers transfer the slightest imperfections through a lever mechanism to two delicate indicator needles on a front-facing scale. The movement is mechanically amplified by approximately three times (3x).</li>
<li><strong>Truing While Seated:</strong> The mechanic typically sits in front of the stand and looks down onto the display panel. Spinning the wheel instantly shows how lateral runout (right needle) and radial runout (left needle) change in sync.</li>
<li><strong>Automatic Centering (Dishing):</strong> Thanks to the synchronous adjustment of the support arms, the wheel is automatically perfectly centered relative to the hub axle when clamped. This makes a separate dishing tool unnecessary in most cases.</li>
</ol>

<h3>Advantages and Disadvantages in Modern Workshop Use</h3>

<table border="1" cellpadding="8" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;">
<thead>
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<th style="text-align: left; width: 50%;">Advantages</th>
<th style="text-align: left; width: 50%;">Disadvantages / Limitations</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td valign="top">
<ul>
<li><strong>Extreme Durability:</strong> Engineered for decades of industrial-grade heavy use.</li>
<li><strong>Incredible Precision:</strong> The 3x mechanical amplification makes even the most minor nuances instantly visible.</li>
<li><strong>Ergonomics:</strong> Reading the needles is significantly easier on the eyes during long shifts compared to staring at tiny gaps.</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td valign="top">
<ul>
<li><strong>Time-Consuming with Tires:</strong> Since the roller feelers require a clean rim shoulder, quick touch-ups on wheels with tires inflated are more cumbersome.</li>
<li><strong>Axle Standards:</strong> Originally optimized for classic quick-releases and solid threaded axles. Modern thru-axles (Boost standard) require special axle adapters.</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]
== Simple Truing Stand ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Wheel Truing Stand
|image=wheel truing stand.JPG
|status=
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=read this page
|manual=
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Moritz|Moritz]] donated a simple wheel truing stand way before we developed the [[Bike Lounge]]. It can be used to ''laterally'' true bike wheels, i.e. make sure the rim of the wheel lies exactly in one plane and does not touch the brakes occasionally.

[[Category:Cycling]]
[[Category:Repair]]

Headset Spanners

2026-08-23T19:30:04Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Headset Spanners
|german= Steuersatzschlüssel
|image= Headset_Spanners.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Steuersatzschlüssel
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<h1 style="color: #1a365d; border-bottom: 2px solid #e2e8f0; padding-bottom: 8px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-top: 0;">Wiki Entry: Eldi Professional Headset & Cone Spanners</h1>

<p style="font-size: 1.1em; color: #4a5568; font-family: sans-serif;">This entry covers the professional-grade, ultra-flat workshop wrenches manufactured by the historic German brand <strong>Eldi (Eugen Lingelbach Darmstadt)</strong>. These tools are industry standards for servicing vintage cup-and-cone hubs and threaded bicycle headsets.</p>


<div style="background: #f7fafc; border: 1px solid #cbd5e0; border-radius: 4px; padding: 12px; margin-bottom: 24px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 0.95em;">
<strong style="color: #2d3748;">Brand Overview:</strong> Eldi was a premier German manufacturer of heavy-duty bicycle workshop tools. Known for using high-grade, extremely hardened tool steel, these vintage wrenches are highly sought after today for their durability and resistance to rounding off flat components under high torque.
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #3182ce; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2b6cb0; font-size: 1.17em;">1. Vinyl-Grip Flat Wrenches (Blue / Green Handles)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Tool Types:</strong> Oversized Cone Spanners & Threaded Headset Wrenches.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Key Sizes:</strong> Typically found in 30 mm, 32 mm, 36 mm, and 40 mm (for headsets), as well as standard hub sizes like 15 mm.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Function:</strong> Designed with an ultra-thin profile to fit into narrow wrench flats on hub cones and locknuts without binding adjacent parts.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Workshop Design:</strong> The color-coded vinyl dipped handles provided comfort during all-day workshop use and allowed mechanics to quickly identify sizes on the tool board.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 32px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #4a5568; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #4a5568; font-size: 1.17em;">2. Offset Double-Open Ended Headset Spanners (All-Steel)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Tool Type:</strong> Traditional Chromed Headset Wrenches.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Design Feature:</strong> Features a distinct angled/cranked (offset) head profile at both ends.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Function:</strong> The offset bend allows the mechanic to flush-seat the wrench onto flat headset locknuts, providing proper hand clearance and preventing scraped knuckles against the bicycle frame, stem, or brake cables.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="background: #fffaf0; border: 1px solid #feebc8; border-radius: 4px; padding: 16px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-bottom: 20px;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #dd6b20; font-size: 1.17em;">Collector & Workshop Notes</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; color: #744210;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 6px;"><strong>Value & Rarity:</strong> Since Eldi ceased production, these tool sets have high collector value in the vintage restoration scene (especially for classic European racing and touring bikes).</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0;"><strong>Care Tip:</strong> Keep the bare steel components lightly oiled to prevent surface rust, and avoid using them with cheater bars, as excessive leverage can widen the precise jaw tolerances over time.</li>
</ul>
</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Crimper

2026-08-23T19:29:42Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Cable Cutter and Crimper
|german= Fahrrad-Bowdenzugschneider mit integrierter Crimpfunktion
|image= Crimper.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Fahrrad-Bowdenzugschneider mit integrierter Crimpfunktion
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<h1 style="color: #1a365d; border-bottom: 2px solid #e2e8f0; padding-bottom: 8px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-top: 0;">Wiki Entry: Professional Cable Cutters & Crimpers</h1>

<p style="font-size: 1.1em; color: #4a5568; font-family: sans-serif;">This entry covers the dual-purpose workshop cutters and crimping pliers manufactured by <strong>Eldi</strong> and <strong>Park Tool (CN-10)</strong>. These specialized tools are designed to both cleanly slice bicycle cables and crimp protective end caps/ferrules.</p>


<div style="background: #f7fafc; border: 1px solid #cbd5e0; border-radius: 4px; padding: 16px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-bottom: 24px;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2d3748; font-size: 1.17em;">Understanding the Design: Dual Functionality</h3>
<p style="margin: 0 0 12px 0; color: #4a5568;">At first glance, the circular openings in the jaws resemble a press or crimping die. However, these are <strong>heavy-duty combination tools</strong> that handle two distinct workshop tasks:</p>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; color: #4a5568;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 6px;"><strong>The Shear Cut (Primary Function):</strong> Unlike hardware store wire cutters that pinch and crush, these blades slide past each other like high-precision scissors. The circular jaw pocket encircles the tough steel cable from all sides during the cut, preventing the brake or shifter housing from flattening or fraying.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0;"><strong>The Built-in Crimper (Secondary Function):</strong> The notch located just below the main cutting jaw or near the center pivot is engineered specifically to crush/crimp aluminum cable end caps (protective sleeves) and housing ferrules into place, ensuring the cable ends do not unspool or fray over time.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #3182ce; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2b6cb0; font-size: 1.17em;">1. Eldi Heavy-Duty Cutter & Crimper (Black Handles)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Identification:</strong> Stamped with the classic "Eldi" logo on the hardened tool steel head.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Design:</strong> Features a spring-loaded return mechanism and a heavy wire loop closure latch at the handle base for safe storage.</li>
</ul>
</div>

<div style="margin-bottom: 32px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #4a5568; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #4a5568; font-size: 1.17em;">2. Park Tool CN-10 Cable Cutter (Blue Handle)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Identification:</strong> Easily spotted on the tool board by the iconic Park Tool blue vinyl handle grip.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Design:</strong> Uses cold-formed, heat-treated steel jaws featuring two dedicated crimping sections for clean ferrule deformation.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="background: #fffaf0; border: 1px solid #feebc8; border-radius: 4px; padding: 16px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-bottom: 20px;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #dd6b20; font-size: 1.17em;">Workshop Best Practices</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; color: #744210;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 6px;"><strong>Blade Protection:</strong> Never use these specialized shearing jaws to cut hardened wheel spokes, cotter pins, or heavy chain master-links. Hard steel will instantly dent or chip the curved cutting edges, ruining them for cables.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0;"><strong>Ferrule Placement:</strong> Place the aluminum end cap entirely within the secondary crimping notch before applying force. Using the main shear blade to crimp can accidentally slice right through the thin metal cap.</li>
</ul>
</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Combination Headset Wrench / Hook Spanner

2026-08-23T19:29:19Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Combination Headset Wrench / Hook Spanner
|german= Hakenschlüssel / Nutmutternschlüssel
|image= Combination_Headset_Wrench.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Hakenschlüssel / Nutmutternschlüssel
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<h1 style="color: #1a365d; border-bottom: 2px solid #e2e8f0; padding-bottom: 8px; font-family: sans-serif;">Wiki Entry: Special Tools for Classic Bicycle Bearings</h1>

<p style="font-size: 1.1em; color: #4a5568; font-family: sans-serif;">This guide describes flat specialty wrenches primarily required for maintaining and dismantling historic bearing components (vintage bicycles, classic threaded headsets, and adjustable cup-and-cone bottom brackets).</p>


<pre style="background: #f7fafc; border: 1px solid #cbd5e0; padding: 12px; border-radius: 4px; overflow-x: auto; font-family: monospace; font-size: 0.9em; color: #4a5568;">
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+

| [Tool 1] [Tool 2] [Tool 3] [Tool 4] |
| Hook Spanner Combo Headset Wrench Hook Spanner Shimano TL |
| (Black) (32 mm / Pin Face) (Curved) (36 / 15 mm)|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
</pre>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #2d3748; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2d3748;">1. Hook Spanner / Lockring Wrench (Black)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Category:</strong> Bottom bracket tool.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Main Function:</strong> Loosening and tightening the notched lockring on the left side of adjustable cup-and-cone bottom brackets.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Key Feature:</strong> The hook at the top engages securely into the lockring notches to prevent slipping.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #3182ce; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2b6cb0;">2. Combination Headset Wrench (Silver, 32 mm)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Category:</strong> Steering and bottom bracket tool.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Main Function (Bottom):</strong> The open 32 mm wrench is used for adjusting and locking classic threaded headsets (fork nuts).</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Extra Function (Top):</strong> The round head with integrated pins or cutouts acts as a face spanner or grabber for specific bearing cups.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #4a5568; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #4a5568;">3. Curved Hook Spanner (Silver)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Category:</strong> Universal lockring wrench.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Main Function:</strong> An ergonomic alternative to the straight hook spanner, used for less accessible lockrings on bottom brackets or older headsets.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Key Feature:</strong> The curved body optimizes leverage and keeps fingers clear of the bicycle frame.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 32px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #dd6b20; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #dd6b20;">4. Shimano Combination Wrench (Silver, 36 mm / 15 mm)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Category:</strong> Drivetrain and hub tool.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Manufacturer/Type:</strong> Vintage original Shimano tool (historic TL-FC series).</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Main Function (Top):</strong> The closed 36 mm ring wrench fits precisely onto the right-side (fixed) cup of traditional bottom brackets.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Main Function (Bottom):</strong> The open 15 mm wrench serves as a heavy-duty pedal wrench or for loosening wheel axle nuts.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="background: #fffaf0; border: 1px solid #feebc8; border-radius: 4px; padding: 16px; font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #dd6b20;">Workshop Practice Tips</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; color: #744210;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 6px;"><strong>Slip Prevention:</strong> Because these wrenches are very thin, they can easily slip under high torque. Always ensure the tool sits perfectly flat against the component.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0;"><strong>Compatibility:</strong> Modern cartridge or Outboard/Hollowtech bottom brackets do not use these standards; this toolset is primarily relevant for vintage restorations.</li>
</ul>
</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Chainring Straightening Tool

2026-08-23T19:28:59Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Chainring Straightening Tool
|german= Richtwerkzeug für Kettenblätter und Kurbelsterne
|image= ChainringStraighteningTool_.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Richtwerkzeug für Kettenblätter und Kurbelsterne
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<div class="wiki-tool-article" style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; color: #333; line-height: 1.6; max-width: 800px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 20px;">

<h1 style="color: #0056b3; border-bottom: 2px solid #0056b3; padding-bottom: 8px; margin-top: 0;">VAR #940 Chainring & Disc Brake Rotor Straightening Tool</h1>

<h2 style="color: #2c3e50; border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd; padding-bottom: 5px; margin-top: 25px;">1. Overview & Purpose</h2>
<p>The <strong>VAR #940</strong> is a professional-grade shop tool designed for straightening bent chainrings, crankset spiders, and disc brake rotors. It provides mechanics with the necessary leverage to correct lateral runout (wobbles) directly on the bicycle without removing the components.</p>

<h2 style="color: #2c3e50; border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd; padding-bottom: 5px; margin-top: 25px;">2. Technical Specifications</h2>
<ul style="padding-left: 20px; margin-bottom: 15px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Manufacturer:</strong> VAR Tools (France)</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Model/Part Number:</strong> 940</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Material:</strong> Heavy-duty, hardened tool steel</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Handle:</strong> High-traction, ergonomic grip (classic orange/black vinyl)</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Working Ends:</strong> Dual-slotted head with two distinct slot widths</li>
</ul>

<h2 style="color: #2c3e50; border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd; padding-bottom: 5px; margin-top: 25px;">3. Key Features</h2>
<ul style="padding-left: 20px; margin-bottom: 15px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 8px;"><strong>Dual-Slot Design:</strong>
<ul style="padding-left: 20px; margin-top: 5px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 3px;"><em>Narrow Slot:</em> Optimized for individual chainring teeth, thin chainring bodies, and standard disc brake rotors.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 3px;"><em>Wide Slot:</em> Designed for thicker aluminum/steel chainrings and crankset spider arms.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 8px;"><strong>High Leverage:</strong> The long handle minimizes physical effort required to bend hardened materials back into alignment.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 8px;"><strong>Component Protection:</strong> Precision-machined slots distribute pressure evenly to prevent scratching, marring, or flattening of teeth.</li>
</ul>

<h2 style="color: #2c3e50; border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd; padding-bottom: 5px; margin-top: 25px;">4. Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)</h2>

<h3 style="color: #34495e; margin-top: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px;">For Chainrings:</h3>
<ol style="padding-left: 20px; margin-bottom: 15px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Identify the Bend:</strong> Spin the crankset and visually locate the exact spot where the chainring wobbles or rubs against the front derailleur.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Position the Tool:</strong> Slide the appropriate slot of the VAR #940 over the bent section or tooth.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Apply Pressure:</strong> Apply gentle, controlled leverage in the opposite direction of the bend. <em>Note: Always practice incremental adjustments—bend a little, check, and repeat if necessary.</em></li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Verify:</strong> Spin the crank again to ensure proper alignment and smooth chain clearance.</li>
</ol>

<h3 style="color: #34495e; margin-top: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px;">For Disc Brake Rotors:</h3>
<ol style="padding-left: 20px; margin-bottom: 15px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Locate the Rub:</strong> Look through the brake caliper assembly while spinning the wheel to find the high spot rubbing against the brake pads.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Engage:</strong> Place the narrow slot over the affected area of the rotor track.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Correct:</strong> Apply minimal force to true the rotor. <em>Note: Rotors are highly sensitive; use very light pressure.</em></li>
</ol>

<h2 style="color: #2c3e50; border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd; padding-bottom: 5px; margin-top: 25px;">5. Safety & Maintenance</h2>
<div class="wiki-warning-box" style="background-color: #fff3cd; border-left: 4px solid #ffc107; padding: 12px; margin-bottom: 15px; border-radius: 4px;">
<strong style="color: #856404;">Safety Warning:</strong> Wear protective eyewear. Keep fingers clear of the chainring teeth and chain to avoid pinch hazards. Never use this tool on carbon fiber components.
</div>
<ul style="padding-left: 20px; margin-bottom: 15px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Maintenance:</strong> Wipe the tool down after use with a clean rag.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Rust Prevention:</strong> Periodically apply a light coat of anti-corrosion oil to the bare steel slots.</li>
</ul>

</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Bike Repair Stands

2026-08-23T19:28:09Z

NitramLegov: /* VAR Dual Repair Stand */ Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Bike Repair Stands
|german=Fahrrad-Montageständer
|image=bike repair stand.JPG
|synonyms=bike workstands; DE: Fahrrad-Montageständer
|type=workholding
|status=
|material=[[bicycles]]
|used with=[[Hex Keys|hex keys]], [[wrenches]]
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=read this page
|similar=[[vises]]
}}
We have several bike repair stands in our [[Bike Lounge]].

== VAR Dual Repair Stand ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name= VAR Dual Repair Stand
|german= VAR Doppel-Montageständer
|image=VAR Dual Montageständer.jpg
|synonyms=DE: VAR Doppel-Montageständer
|status=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|manual=
|extrabox=yes
}}

<h2>Bicycle Repair Stand – VAR Professional Double Workstation</h2>

<h3>Overview</h3>
<p>The <strong>VAR Professional Double Repair Stand</strong> is an extremely robust, heavy-duty workstation designed for continuous, high-volume use in bicycle workshops, service centers, and racing teams. Featuring two opposing clamps, this tool allows two mechanics to work simultaneously and completely independently on a minimal footprint. Alternatively, a single mechanic can highly efficiently manage two bike projects side by side.</p>

<h3>Technical Specifications & Features</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Manufacturer:</strong> VAR Tools (France).</li>
<li><strong>Design:</strong> Heavy-duty double-sided repair stand with two independent clamping stations.</li>
<li><strong>Weight & Base:</strong> Massive, extra-heavy steel base plate ensuring absolute stability and zero vibration without the need for floor bolting.</li>
<li><strong>Material:</strong> High-grade, powder-coated steel main column with durable chrome-plated vertical tubes for height adjustment.</li>
<li><strong>Height Adjustment:</strong> Both workstations can be adjusted in height fully independently from each other to guarantee ergonomic working positions.</li>
</ul>

<h3>Clamp Technology & Functionality</h3>
<p>The core of the double repair stand is its two professional oversize clamping jaws, engineered for maximum flexibility and frame protection:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>360-Degree Rotation:</strong> Clamped bicycles can be rotated continuously around their axis and securely locked at any desired angle for optimal component access.</li>
<li><strong>Universal Fit:</strong> The jaws quickly adapt to all common frame diameters and tube shapes, easily accommodating modern aero frames, oversized tubes, and heavy e-bikes.</li>
<li><strong>Frame Protection:</strong> Premium rubber inserts on the clamping jaws prevent scratches, dents, or damage to sensitive carbon, titanium, or aluminum frames.</li>
<li><strong>Cable Clearance:</strong> The jaw inserts feature built-in recesses for external cable routing, preventing brake and derailleur cables from being pinched during clamping.</li>
</ul>

<h3>Advantages in Modern Workshop Use</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Space Efficiency:</strong> Cuts the required floor space in half compared to setting up two separate single repair stands.</li>
<li><strong>High Output:</strong> Perfect for professional shops with multiple mechanics or high daily bike turnarounds.</li>
<li><strong>Heavy-Duty Capacity:</strong> The rock-solid construction offers the exceptional stability needed to safely lift and service heavy modern e-bikes and cargo bikes.</li>
</ul>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

== WorkZone Bike Repair Stand ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name= WorkZone Bike Repair Stand
|german= WorkZone Fahrradmontageständer
|image=bike repair stand.JPG
|status=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|manual=
|extrabox=yes
}}

Besides holding your bike up and keeping its parts from moving too much, this simple stand can also assist you with holding tools and parts as there is a magnetic tray/toolholder on it.

== Specs ==
* max. load: 30 kg
* height: adjustable from 110 to 190 cm
* bike frame diameter: 25 to 40 mm

[[File:horizontal bike repair.JPG|thumb|left|If you need to have your bike horizontal for some reason, try using the stand in combination with a benchtop or vise.]]

[[Category:Cycling]]
[[Category:Repair]]

Chain Rivet Tools / Chain Breakers

2026-08-23T19:26:46Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name= Bicycle Chain Rivet Tools
|german= Fahrrad-Kettennieter
|image= Bicycle_Chain_Rivet_Tools.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Fahrrad-Kettennieter
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<h2>Overview: Bicycle Chain Rivet Tools (Chain Breakers)</h2>
<p>Below is a technical breakdown of the five different bicycle chain rivet tools shown in the image, organized by their layout position as a reference guide for the workshop wiki.</p>

<h3>Top Row (From Left to Right)</h3>

<div class="tool-wiki-entry">
<h3>1. Vintage Cast-Metal Chain Rivet Tool</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Image Position:</strong> Top Left (Silver cast body with a distinct finger-ring loop at the bottom and a fixed metal T-handle).</li>
<li><strong>Function:</strong> A classic, heavy-duty workshop chain breaker designed to press out chain links and pins to shorten, open, or repair bicycle chains.</li>
<li><strong>Technical Details:</strong> Features a robust, solid cast-alloy body with an integrated lower ring for a secure grip during high-torque operation. The heavy-duty threaded drive pin is operated via a classic fixed-wing handle.</li>
</ul>
</div>

<hr />

<div class="tool-wiki-entry">
<h3>2. Heavy-Duty Industrial Chain Breaker & Link Press</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Image Position:</strong> Top Right (Dark gray, blocky rectangular body with a large ribbed cooling-fin structure and a plastic T-handle).</li>
<li><strong>Function:</strong> A stationary workshop chain tool optimized for high-leverage operations. It is often used for heavy-duty single-speed, BMX, or transport-bike chains.</li>
<li><strong>Technical Details:</strong> The distinctive block-shaped, rectangular body provides immense stability when clamped in a bench vise. The deeply ribbed outer surface offers maximum hand grip, and the oversized handle ensures smooth pin extraction.</li>
</ul>
</div>

<hr />

<h3>Bottom Row (From Left to Right)</h3>

<div class="tool-wiki-entry">
<h3>3. Ergonomic Three-Finger Grip Chain Breaker</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Image Position:</strong> Bottom Left (Silver body with a distinct wavy three-finger handle and a sliding Tommy-bar lever).</li>
<li><strong>Function:</strong> A professional-grade workshop chain tool designed for precise adjustments and link removals on various multi-speed chains.</li>
<li><strong>Technical Details:</strong> The handle features contoured finger wavy molds to prevent hand slippage during tough extractions. It utilizes a sliding Tommy-bar lever to drive the threaded pin precisely into the center of the chain rivet.</li>
</ul>
</div>

<hr />

<div class="tool-wiki-entry">
<h3>4. Compact Ultra-Portable Chain Rivet Tool</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Image Position:</strong> Bottom Center (Small, minimalist gray steel body with a removable or sliding lever bar).</li>
<li><strong>Function:</strong> A minimalist, lightweight chain breaker designed primarily for mobile toolkits, emergency trailside repairs, or saddle bags.</li>
<li><strong>Technical Details:</strong> Stripped down to the bare essentials to save weight and space. Despite its compact footprint, it features standard alignment cradles to hold the chain securely while the slim drive rod pushes the pin.</li>
</ul>
</div>

<hr />

<div class="tool-wiki-entry">
<h3>5. Modern Ergonomic Pistol-Grip Chain Tool</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Image Position:</strong> Bottom Right (Dark gray composite/plastic contoured grip handle with a large T-handle).</li>
<li><strong>Function:</strong> A modern workshop chain breaker designed for daily service work and high-volume repairs on multi-speed bicycle chains.</li>
<li><strong>Technical Details:</strong> Features an ergonomic, molded plastic handle that mimics a comfortable pistol grip to reduce hand fatigue during repetitive workshop tasks. The large, smooth-turning T-handle allows for micro-adjustments and precise feel when pushing out pins.</li>
</ul>
</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Category:AI-Slop

2026-08-23T19:26:17Z

NitramLegov: Creation

This is a category for pages which have likely been created purely by some LLM and copy-pasted into the wiki without review or editing.
[[Category:Maintenance Categories]]

Template:ProjectInfoBox

2026-07-29T12:48:26Z

NitramLegov: Redirects from Main to Material Namespace are manually setup and thus not reliable

{| class="wikitable" style="float:right; margin-left: 10px; border-style: solid; border-width: 5px; border-color: #00773D"
!colspan="2"|<small style="float:right">[[Template:ProjectInfoBox|ProjectInfoBox]]</small><br>
<big>'''{{{project title|Unnamed Project}}}'''</big>
|-
!colspan="2"| [[{{#if: {{{extrabox|}}} |File: | Has image::File:}}{{#if: {{{image|}}} |{{{image}}} |project-default.png}}|frameless|300px]]
|-
| Status:
| {{{status|planned}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{date|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Release Date:
{{!}} [[ProjectDate::{{{date|(planned) finishing date}}}]]
|}}
|-
| Initiator:
| {{{initiator|who maintains it?}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{team|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Team:
{{!}} {{{team}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{materials|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Materials Used:
{{!}} {{{materials}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{tools|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Tools Used:
{{!}} {{{tools}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{software|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Software Used:
{{!}} {{{software}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{cost|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Approx. Cost:
{{!}} {{{cost}}}
|}}
|}
[[Has caption::{{FULLPAGENAME}}|]]
<noinclude>
Inform others about your [[Projects|project]] in a compact overview!

== Documentation ==
To use this template, simply copy this code into your page and enter the relevant parameters:
<pre>
{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=
|image=
|status=
|date=
|initiator=
|team=
|materials=
|tools=
|software=
|cost=
}}
</pre>
Default values for some parameters exist, but will only be used if the entire line is omitted. For example, <code>|image=</code> leads to no image being displayed while not entering the image parameter at all will lead to the default image (light bulb) being displayed. Please make use of the "Show preview" button and it should be clear.

If you had/have helpers with your project, you can use the <code>team</code> value to give them credit. Try using [[Template:HelpNeeded]] here to find collaborators! If you delete it or leave it empty, that field is not displayed at all.

The <code>software</code>, <code>materials</code> and <code>tools</code> value behaves this way as well since some projects are realized with tools and materials but others are done mostly digitally.

== [[Semantic MediaWiki]] ==
The content you enter for "date" can be queried under [[Property:ProjectDate]].

== Bugs/Future Development ==
* selection instead of free text: status= planned/in progress/finished?

== Template Parameters ==
<templatedata>
{
"description": "Provide information about a project you have built.",
"params": {
"project title": {
"label": "The name of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": true,
"description": "The name of your project",
"default": "Unnamed Project"
},
"image": {
"label": "An image for your project (your-uploaded-filename.jpg)",
"type": "wiki-file-name",
"required": false,
"description": "The file name of the image which represents your project the best. This might be printed on our [[Project Wall]]",
"suggested": true,
"example": "your-uploaded-filename.jpg"
},
"status": {
"label": "Status of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The current release status of your project",
"default": "planned",
"suggested": true
},
"date": {
"label": "The release date of your project",
"type": "date",
"required": false,
"description": "The date on which your project has been finished. Will be assigned to Property:ProjectDate and thus be searchable within [[Semantic MediaWiki]]."
},
"initiator": {
"label": "Who initiated your project?",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The user page or name of the person who initiated the project. Please provide them as their wiki name. You can leave out the \"User:\" part.",
"default": "who maintains it?",
"suggested": true,
"example": "[[Lukas]]"
},
"team": {
"label": "The team helping with your project.",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "Please provide them as their wiki usernames. You can leave out the \"User:\" part.",
"example": "[[Keno]]"
},
"materials": {
"label": "Materials you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of materials you have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links in double brackets (\"[[Page Title]]\").",
"example": "[[Mateiral:MDF]]"
},
"tools": {
"label": "Tools you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of tools you have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links in double brackets (\"[[Page Title]]\")",
"example": "[[Table Saw]]"
},
"software": {
"label": "Software you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of softwareyou have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links in double brackets (\"[[Page Title]]\")",
"example": "[[Autodesk Fusion]]"
},
"cost": {
"label": "Costs of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "An estimate of the cost to be expected if someone wants to recreate your project."
}
}
}
</templatedata>
</noinclude>

Tutor Training

2026-07-23T14:28:01Z

NitramLegov: Remove Baumphil from list

We are always happy about new [[tutors]] - please let us know if you are interested in becoming "certified" for your favorite tools!

This page attempts to keep track of volunteers waiting for their initial session with a [[manager]].

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! scope="col"| Tutor
! scope="col"| interested in
|-
| [[Anitamareike]]
| Woodturning, Bench Grinder, Chop Saw, Drill, Handheld Sander
|-
| [[Utis]]
| Drill, Metal Lathe, 3D Printer
|-
| [[Lmnl99]]
| Reciprocating Saw, Handheld Circular Saw, Laser Cutter, Heat
|-
| [[Jakob]]
| Table Saw, Handheld Router, Handheld Circular Saw
|-
|[[No.shoes]]
| Chop Saw, Drills, Heat, Soldering Iron
|-
|[[Jeddi]]
|3D Printer, Drill, Reciprocating Saw, Handheld Circular Saw, Table Saw
|-
|[[Mobell]]
|Handheld Sander, Chop Saw, Handheld Circular Saw ...
|-
|[[MobiTobi]]
|Laser Cutter
|-
|[[Jaggi2]]
|different Circular Saws, Handheld Sander, ...
|-
|[[User:Deaf|Toan]]
|all Sanders, Handheld Router, Sliding Table Saw, woodworking,
|-
|[[LeoF]]
|Jointer-Planer, Joinery Machine, Chop Saw, Table Saw, Handheld Circular Saw, '''woodworking'''
|-
|[[Schmidt3D]]
|CNC Mill, Angle Grinder
|-
|[[Der huddel]]
|Jointer-Planer, Router Table, Sliding Table Saw
|-
|[[Lena]]
|Sewing Machine
|}

''This overview - if considered useful - can of course be improved A LOT, e.g. by using [[SMW]] properties on all intro pages. Just an info dump at the moment!''

Wiltec 65415

2026-07-23T07:05:56Z

NitramLegov: Redirected page to WilTec 65415

#REDIRECT [[WilTec 65415]]

Help:Wiki Basics

2026-07-06T10:49:55Z

NitramLegov: /* Creating a New Page */ link create page

[https://www.mediawiki.org MediaWiki], the framework underlying this wiki, is very powerful but can be just as confusing. How often have you found yourself wondering, "how can I make this look better?", "is it okay to change this part I don't like?" (''it probably is!'') or "where do I find that page I was on just a week ago?"

This help page is intended to help with understanding basic principles of the wiki structure in general and our specific implementation for easier reading and more efficient writing. If you'd like presentation format better, here you go - we have seminar slides available under "[[MediaWiki Seminar]]"!

For other wiki related questions, have a look at our help pages in the [[:Category:Wiki|"wiki" category]], the [https://m.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents MediaWiki support section], or talk to the [[administrators]].

== Creating a New Page ==
If you navigate to a page that does not yet exist, you will be given an option to create it.

There are several ways of doing that:
* use [[Create Page]]
* search for the desired page title (search bar at the top right or [[Special:Search]])
* click on a [[red link]]
* enter the URL related to that page in your address bar: <code>https://wiki.comakingspace.de/My_New_Page</code>

For more advice on editing pages, please see "[[Creating Wiki Content]]" :-)

== Staying up to Date ==
=== Watchlist ===
The best way to make sure you are informed about edits and discussions on interesting pages is to add them to your [[Special:Watchlist|watchlist]]. Pages can be added by clicking <code>Actions/Watch</code> at the top of every regular page when you are logged in. If you see <code>Actions/Unwatch</code> you are already watching the page and may remove it from your watchlist, and pages you edit are watched by default.

You can check your watchlist via the user menu when you are logged in and choose to get eMail notifications about certain changes as well.

=== Recent Changes ===
Newly created pages and articles that have not gotten your attention so far also change all the time so it can be worthwhile to check out [[Special:RecentChanges]] once in a while. Who knows which cool reads may be added this week?!

== Categories & Namespaces ==
We presently have over '''{{NUMBEROFARTICLES}}''' pages and they're bound to become even more which can be hard to oversee. Of course searching for a page title can work, but what if you don't know what exactly to search for?

For that we have two answers: categories and namespaces.

=== Categories ===
You can think of categories like '''tags''', just write <code><nowiki>[[Category:Something]]</nowiki></code> anywhere on a page and it will be linked from that category page. Check out [[Special:Categories|which ones we have already]] and don't be afraid to create a new one if it seems to make sense! :-)

=== Namespaces ===
You'll notice that some of the page titles start with a certain word followed by a colon, e.g. lots of "Material:" or "Project:" pages. The term before the colon defines the namespace of that page (yes, "Category:" is a special kind of namespace as well). Some namespaces are predefined, such as "Special:" pages which are not editable by us, but we have added a bunch of our own to make using this wiki easier.

It's all for the sake of structure: even with categories, you may find yourself looking at long page lists containing a buch of unfamiliar titles. With namespaces, stuff like materials or help pages automatically stick out! By the way - clicking "'''What links here'''" in your toolbox on the left also gives you a nice list of potentially interesting pages!

A downside to this decision is that some pages may be harder to link to or even find: except materials, projects, categories and file formats, suggestions will '''only show up in the search field after the namespace and the colon are entered'''. That can be annoying, but [[Help:Wiki Basics#Redirects|redirects]] should help. On the other hand, if you are for example looking for help but not sure which help pages exist, entering "Help:" into the search field yields a great set of '''filtered suggestions'''!

==== "Talk:" Namespace (Discussion Pages) ====
If you're not quite sure about a fact or whether an edit would make sense, don't hesitate to use the '''discussion feature at the top of any page'''! MediaWiki suggests starting new topics with headlines (framed by <code>==</code> on each side) and indenting replies by starting the line with <code>::</code>. You can automatically sign your message by typing <code><nowiki>"--~~~~"</nowiki></code> or clicking the corresponding button above the editor.

== Redirects ==
Redirects are '''pages that lead to a different page''', e.g. if there are common synonyms for a tool or a plain title should lead to a page with that title within a namespace.

To create a redirect, simply create a new page with your alternate title and enter nothing but <code><nowiki>#REDIRECT[[ExistingTitle]]</nowiki></code> ("ExistingTitle" being the name of the page you want to link to, of course).

[[Category:Wiki]]

Network

2026-06-20T16:20:20Z

NitramLegov: /* Network Infrastructure */ IP Updates

From a physical perspective, the network at the CoMakingSpace is built up as follows:
<mermaid> graph LR
subgraph lan [LAN]
0[CommonRoom Fritz!Box] --> A[CommonRoom UCG Ultra]
A --> C[Seminar Corner Switch]
A --> E[Office Router]
C --> F[Canon MF752Cdw]
C --> G[WebOS TV Left]
C --> H[WebOS TV Right]
click A "http://10.0.0.1" _blank
click K "http://homeassistant.local:8123" _blank
end

subgraph workshop[Wood Workshop-LAN]
A --> D[Wood Workshop Switch]
D --> S[Logo-Felder_RL_160]
D --> I[Wood Workshop Access Point]
end

subgraph eroom [E-Room-LAN]
A --> B[E-Room Switch]
B --> WCNC1(Workbee CNC)
click WCNC1 "https://workbeecnc.fritz.box" _blank
B --> WCNC2(Workbee CNC Tablet)
B --> J(Epilog Legend 36Ext)
B --> K[HomeAssistant]

end
subgraph wlan [WLAN]
A -.-> L(Laser PC)
A -.-> M(Slicing PC)
A -.-> N(P7)
A -.-> O(P8)
A -.-> P(ESPHome_Garbage_Sign)
A -.-> Q(Trash Tracker)
A -.-> R(prusa-link)
end
style wlan fill:#6dc8fc
</mermaid>

The main UCG Ultra provides IPs within the 10.0.0.0/8

The DHCP Server provides dynamic IP adresses for clients in the range 10.100.0.0 - 10.100.255.255

All other IP Adresses are static adresses and listed below

===Network Infrastructure===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| UCG Ultra
|10.0.0.1
|-
|Office Fritz!Box
|10.0.0.2
|-
|CoMS Access Controller
|10.0.0.3
|-
|Kitchen Switch
|10.0.0.4
|-
|Wood Workshop Switch
|10.0.0.5
|-
|Seminar Corner Switch
|10.0.0.6
|-
|Office Switch
|10.0.0.7
|-
|CNC Switch
|10.0.0.8
|-
|E-Room Switch
|10.0.0.9
|-
|Kitchen AP
|10.0.1.1
|-
|Wood Workshop AP
|10.0.1.2
|}

=== Access Infrastructure ===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| CoMS Access Controller
|10.0.0.3
|-
|Main Entrance - Common Room Door Hub
|10.0.2.1
|-
|Main Entrance - Common Room Reader
|10.0.2.2
|-
|Common Room - Workshop
|10.0.2.3
|-
|Common Room - E-Room
|10.0.2.4
|-
|Common Room - Storage
|10.0.2.5
|-
|Common Room - Office
|10.0.2.6
|-
|Common Room - Manager Storage
|10.0.2.7
|}

===IoT-related devices===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Homeassistant
|10.1.0.1
|-
|OfficePi
|10.1.0.2
|-
|ScannerPi
|10.1.0.3
|-
|Shelly - RouterTable (COMS00154)
|10.1.0.6
|-
|<s>Shelly - Felder AF 14 (COMS00073)</s>
|<s>10.1.0.7</s>
|-
|<s>Shelly - Festool CTM26 E AC (COMS00021) (Chip)</s>
|<s>10.1.0.8</s>
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00159)
|10.1.0.9
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00158)
|10.1.0.10
|-
|Logo-LaserAbluft
|10.1.0.11
|-
|ESPHome_Garbage_Sign
|10.1.0.12
|-
|Trash Tracker
|10.1.0.13
|-
|Logo-Felder_RL_160
|10.1.0.14
|-
|LGwebOSTV (Left)
|10.1.0.15
|-
|LGwebOSTV (Right)
|10.1.0.16
|-
|Tasmota-MembersWall
|10.1.0.17
|-
|ESPHome-Plug-InfraredHeater
|10.1.0.18
|-
|MembersWall ESP
|10.1.0.19
|}

=== Machines===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Laser PC
|10.2.0.1
|-
|Slicing PC
|10.2.0.2
|-
|[[Workbee]] CNC Router
|10.2.0.3
|-
|Workbee CNC Tablet
|10.2.0.4
|-
|BambuLab ([[P7]])
|10.2.0.5
|-
|BambuLab ([[P8]])
|10.2.0.6
|-
|prusa-link
|10.2.0.8
|-
|epilog legend 36ext
|10.2.0.9
|-
|[[Laser Printers|Canon MF752Cdw]]
|10.2.0.10
|-
|Duet "Blackbox" CNC
|10.2.0.11
|}

===Configuration Changes ===

If you need to change settings for our Network, please contact {{IT-manager}}.

[[Category:Facilities]]

Greggersen Ergomax Plus

2026-06-20T10:04:43Z

NitramLegov: /* Greggersen Ergomax */ Remove links to deleted image and manual, assign issue number

==Greggersen Ergomax==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Greggersen Ergomax
|german=Hartlötgerät
|image=
|synonyms=Gaz brazing torch, Brazing burner, Lötbrenner
|manual=
|material=Copper, Brass, Bronze, Iron, Steel
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=452
|Naming=
|NamingComment=
|Picture=
|PictureComment=
|Manual=
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=
|Security=
|SecurityComment=
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

Precious Plastic - Shredder

2026-06-17T20:41:06Z

NitramLegov: Formatting

== Precious Plastic Shredder ==

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Precious Plastic Shredder Basic V2.0
|image=Plastic Shredder.jpg
|german=Kunststoffschredder
|synonyms=DE: Kunststoffschredder, Plastikschredder,<br>Kunststoffschneidmühle, Plastikschneidmühle
|type=Plastic Shredder
|material=''[[plastics]]''
|location= [[Location::Precious Plastic Area]]
|status=Operational
|firmware=
|assetid=172|software=
|manual=[https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder Precious Plastic Academy] (some build specifics will differ!)
|used with=
|similar=
}}
This shredder is used to convert plastic waste into flakes that can be used in [[Precious Plastic]] projects.

We have a small selection of perforated metal plate ''(Lochblech)'' that could be adapted (cut and perhaps re-drilled) to be the "sieves" determining the particle size that comes out of the shredder.

===Original Build===
[https://preciousplastic.com/en/videos/build/shredder.html ''build instructions'']

[[User:Armin|Armin]] got the laser cut parts and two [https://www.conrad.at/de/flanschlager-htb-grauguss-ucfl-204-bohrungs-o-20-mm-lochabstand-90-mm-197022.html flange bearings] in 2018.

[[Lukas]] contributed a piece of 27 mm ''(Schlüsselweite)'' [https://www.ebay.de/itm/Sechskant-Automatenstahl-SW-27-mm-Lange-wahlbar-11SMnPB30/111079075160 hexagonal steel].

Components:
*3 kW, approx. 1500 rpm ''Drehstrom-Asynchron-Motor''
*gearbox: 20:1
*electronic components:
**emergency stop: TBD (similar to the one at the [[CNC Router|CNC router]])
**1xMotorschutzschalter 6,3-10A Gekauftes Modell:
** 2xLeistungsschutzschalter mit Hilfskontakten Gekauftes Modell: DIL EM 01 G mit 22 DIL E
**2xLeuchttaster für rechts- linkslauf
**Stopp Taster
**3Phasen Hauptschalter
Missing:
*electronic components:
**z.b.[https://www.ebay.de/itm/Industriegeh%C3%A4use-Leergeh%C3%A4use-Verteilerkasten-Schaltschrank-Verteilergeh%C3%A4use/191727919905?var=490750227080 Gehäuse mit Hutschiene]
**z.b. [https://www.ebay.de/itm/HDR-Serie-5V-12V-15V-24V-48V-12W-92-2Watt-MeanWell-LED-Hutschienen-Netzteil/232899066939?var=532426241700 Netzteil 230v zu 24V Output:>500mA]
**hopper cover safety switch (should stop motor when open)

Other materials include [[Threaded Rods|threaded rods]] and other [[Metal Parts|metal parts]] that we should already have at the Space.

==== Electronics ====
[[File:Schredder Wendeschützschaltung.png]]

LaserCut 5.3

2026-06-17T20:40:22Z

NitramLegov: Link in link is not a good idea

{{SoftwareInfoBox
|software name=LaserCut 5.3 ''or Lasercut 5.3''
|image=LaserCut53_entry.jpg
|type=[[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] driver/[[CAM]]
|platform='''Windows''' (XP, 7, 8, 10<sup> [https://hpclaser.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LS6090-PRO-Data-Sheet-2019a.pdf]</sup>)
|license=proprietary
|source=
|installed=laser PC
|input=[[PLT]], [[AI]], '''[[DXF]]''', [[DST]], [[BMP]], [[NC]], [[JPG]], [[GIF]], [[PNG]], [[TIF]], [[TGA]], [[PCX]]
|output=[[MOL]]
|users=[[Martin]]
}}
Lasercut 5.3 (aka "Laser system 5.3" in some installations) is required to prepare a design file for our [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]. Its drawing functions are apparently quite terrible, so pretty much all users in forums etc. recommend to only use it for the very last steps!

If you are familiar with "our" previous laser cutter (the loaned Epilog Zing), this software will pretty much take over what you used to do with [[Visicut]].

LaserCut 5.3 is installed on a dedicated PC, which is located next to the [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] itself.

== Installation ==
We got a copy of LaserCut 5.3 from HPC Laser. You can get it from the orange USB drive located next to the laser cutter. However, the version we got does only work with the "soft dog" USB dongle, which ''will be'' attached permanently to the dedicated PC.

In order to prepare files on your own computer, you can install the software from another source. Most sources include an executable called "Lasercut53_Demo.exe" which can be used without the dongle but cannot operate the machine itself. The demo version also does not want you to save or open project files, but there are workarounds:
* '''saving''' is reportedly offered when closing the program
* '''opening''' of a finished project is best done with our full version at the Space, but also possible after some "terrible" exporting/re-importing<sup> [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/lasercut53personal]</sup>

In case you plan to do these, please make sure that you replace your syscfg.ini with the one shipped with our laser (can be found on the mentioned USB drive).

Installation notes:
* The software only natively works on Windows. Try [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/lasercut53personal Wine or other methods] at your own risk, but be aware it's 32-bit software
* The software must be installed in C:\LaserCut53 in order to work properly. There is a parameter in syscfg.ini which indicates the installation path. Changing it might get it to work from other locations as well but is untested. Try at your own risk.

==Setup==
===Setting the Worktable Size===
The first thing to do after installation is to check for the correct worktable size. Our laser has a size of 90x60 cm. Please ensure your worktable is set up correctly.

If it is not, you can change it by navigating to <code>File --> Machine Options</code> (or pressing Ctrl+J).<br/>
In the new window, please navigate to "Worktable" and apply the following settings:
* X Axis [Range] 900.0
* Y Axis [Range] 600.0

When clicking "Save", it will most likely ask you for a password. Just hit "OK".

==Basic Usage==

===Zoom to All Objects===
[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToAllObjects.jpg|500px]]

Sometimes you need to ensure that all your objects are visible on the screen. To do so, please use <code>Zoom to all objects</code>

[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToAllObjects Result.jpg|500px]]

Note: You can use this tool in order to ensure all your objects are on the worktable. Objects outside the worktable will result in a soft stop of the laser.

===Zoom to Table===
[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToTable.jpg|500px]]

This tool is particulary helpful in case you zoomed in or out of your worktable and want to see the entire worktable centralized on your screen:

[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToTable Result.jpg|500px]]

==Preparing a Job==
===Copy your file to the Laser PC===
You can either use a USB stick to copy your files to the Laser PC. The other option is to upload the files online. The online upload works not only in the CoSpace but as well from any device on the Internet. To upload your file use [[File_Drop]].

The file are later located in the folder "Laser Fileshare" which can be found in the Windows "Quick Access" folder.
===Import Your File===
The first thing you need to do is to import your drawing. You can do so by navigating to <code>File --> Import</code> or by pressing Crtl+I. The following [[File Formats|file formats]] are supported:
* [[Format:PLT|PLT]]
* [[Format:DXF|DXF]]
** [[Fusion 360]]: '''export''' the file. Do not just "save as".
** [[Inkscape]]: reportedly, the checkboxes "Use ROBO-Master type of spline output" and "Use LWPOLYLINE type of line output" need to be '''off''' when saving as DXF for LaserCut 5.3<sup> [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/design-software]</sup> Save as R14 dxf not as R12.
* [[Format:AI|AI]] (Adobe Illustrator)
* [[JPG]]
* [[GIF]]
* PNG
* BMP
* TIF
* DST
* NC
* TGA
* PCX

===Preparing the Cut Paths===
Once your file is imported, you will see the preview on the screen. The following tools might be handy when preparing your cut paths:

====Unite Lines====
[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines Before.jpg|500px|thumb|left|before uniting the lines]]
[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines After.jpg|500px|thumb|left|after uniting the lines]]

In case you just start your job without any further tuning, you might recognize that the laser follows an odd order of steps to cut your paths.

In order to streamline this, please select the paths of your model and navigate to <code>Tools --> Unite Lines</code>.

[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines Options.jpg|500px]]

Note: The default value of 0.100 as the unite tolerance is usually a pretty good value to recognize lines belonging together.
<br clear="all">
====Output Order====
[[File:Lasercut_5.3_order.png|thumb|right|200px|"layers" can be prioritized by moving them up in this list]]
You often want to engrave before cutting as the cut parts can fall out of focus when they are separated from the rest of the material.

::'''easy way:''' select a "layer" in the list on the right and move it around with the <code>Up</code> or <code>Down</code> buttons (top is done first, bottom last)

You can also control the order of the cuts by navigating to <code>Tools --> Output Order</code>: In the new window, you will get a list of output layers, which you can put into the desired order by selecting them on the left and moving them to the right side of the window.<br>
If you are not sure which number corresponds to which cutting path, please note that you can select lines while having the output order window open.

==== Setting the Entry Point and Laser Origin====
<pre style="color: red"> ADD IMAGE: Menu Bar with highlighted button</pre>
You must verify the laser origin, do so in <code>Laser --> Set laser origin</code>. If, for example, you set it to "top right corner" then the software assumes that the physical laser is at the top right corner of your path. If the laser is in the lower left corner physically then you run into a soft stop since the laser would have to leave its work area.

Optionally, on each path you can select the entry point the laser will use by using the "Define cut route" tool. You can find this in the menu as <code>Laser --> Define cut route</code> or in the menu bar:

[[File:LaserCut53 DefineCutRoute.jpg|500px]]

Hint: If you press space when using this tool, a new window will open allowing you to edit some expert settings:

[[File:LaserCut53 DefineCutRoute Lead InOut Options.jpg|500px]]

==== Copy ====

Especially when mass processing something, you might want to copy your drawing multiple times. LaserCut offers a few different options to do so:
# Mark the paths, use CRTL-C and CTRL-V, then move the new paths
# Mark the paths, navigate to <code>Draw --> Copies</code> <br/>This will create actual copies of your object in an array which you can define. After the copies have been created, they are independent of each other and can be modified and moved seperately.
# Mark the paths, navigate to <code>Laser --> Array output options</code> <br/>This will allow you to laser your paths multiple times. Please note that the copies are not independent of each other and can only be moved together. Also, the same settings apply for all of them.

===Selecting the Laser Mode===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Mode !! Explanation
|-
| Cut || Cuts your material by following the defined vectors. You can also use this for vector engraving ("marking") by lowering the power.
|-
| Engrave || Engraves the shapes of your drawing into your material (similar to a printer).
With bitmap pictures, this will engrave dark parts of your picture into your workpiece ([[LaserCut_5.3#Simulating_Your_Job|simulate the job]] to avoid bad surprises!). Also see "[[Laser Engraving Photos]]" for advice on pre-processing these.

Caution: with vector drawings, this will engrave the entire area of your drawing into your workpiece.
|-
| Grade Engrave||Grade engraving will tell the laser to bevel the corners of your engraving. This should increase readability of letters for example.
|-
|Hole ||This setting is similar to cutting. It will follow the defined lines, but will only make little dots (holes) into your material.
|-
|Pen Cut||'''This setting seems to crash LaserCut 5.3 and is not documented in the manual.'''
|}

===Setting Power and Speed===
You can set the power and speed for each layer separately in the Control Panel:

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions.jpg|500px]]

Here you can select the desired mode by using the correspondent drop down menu.

Double-clicking on a layer will open the speed settings for the specific layer.
Please note that the options for cutting and engraving differ from each other:

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions CutOptions.jpg|500px|Options for cutting]]

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions EngraveOptions.jpg|500px|Options for engraving]]

Please pay special attention to the "Corner Power". Usually you want to set this slightly lower than your regular power (too high and you might get "dogbone" curves instead of nice sharp corners).

=== Simulating Your Job===
To see how the laser will move, press the [[File:Simulate_Button.png]] on the far right of the toolbar or navigate to <code>Laser --> Simulate</code>:<br>[[File:Simulate_Button_2.png]]

This is strongly recommended to avoid surprises that ruin your material!

===Estimating Work Time===
You may press the [[File:Estimate_Work_Time_Button.png]] button on the far right of the toolbar to estimate runtime (i.e. approximate cost) before starting the job.

However, please be aware that this estimate is usually a bit too low (the job will take longer in reality) and pay for the actual time needed in the end!

==Controlling the Laser==
In the following, "control panel" refers to this section on the right side of the screen:<br>
[[File:LaserCut Control Panel.jpg|x500px]]

===Homing===
In order to home the laser, please press <code>Datum</code>. <ref>Fun Fact: "Datum" is not a strange translation, but actually the correct term (see [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/datum#Noun Wiktionary])</ref>

Homing the laser will cause it to move into the upper right corner. Please always home the laser before you use it (it should happen automatically during start-up).

NOTE: You can also home the laser by pressing <code>Datum</code> on the control panel of the machine itself.

===Moving the Laser===
You will need to move the laser to its correct starting position, which you decided on when you prepared your job.

In order to do so, you can use the <code>X-</code>/<code>X+</code> and <code>Y-</code>/<code>Y+</code> buttons in LaserCut's control panel or the corresponding arrow keys on the machine.

Please note that you cannot control the Z height from within LaserCut. You will need to set the proper height on the machine itself!

===Uploading Your Job===
Once you are done with all preperation steps, you need to put your job on the machine. In order to do so, please press the <code>DownLoad</code> button in the control panel. This will open a window called "Stand-alone file manager":

[[File:Stand-alone_file_manager.png]]

In here, you can select your desired job and press <code>Download file</code>. You can usually just hit <code>Download current</code> to put the latest job onto the machine.

If you want to store this exact setup and machine data for further copies, you can export the data by pressing <code>Export file</code>. This will allow you to save it as a [[Format:MOL|.mol]] file.

===Starting and Stopping the Job ===
You can start the job in LaserCut or on the machine.

Please note that it is recommended to '''always control the job from the laser itself!'''

If you do have a valid reason to start it from LaserCut, please use the <code>Start</code> button on the control panel. You can also pause and stop the job by using the corresponding buttons.

Though you surely have simulated your job in the laser cut software, before you actually start your job you have two more levels of simulation. First you can press (with open lid) the test button on the laser panel, then the laser's red dot shows you the area where it will work. It is only the bounding box and this simulation is quite fast. This way you know that you really work on your material. Be aware that the red dot and the laser itself have a few mm offset, thus give it a bit room. If you press the button labeled "Laser" on the laser's control panel you can see where it shots a little hole and where that is compared to the red dot. The last level of simulation is to start your job with the laser's lid open. Doing this the actual laser is off, but the red dot moves exactly the path it would later run during actual operation.

== Further Reading ==
* ''[https://hpclaser.co.uk/lasercut5-3-software/ summary]'' by our [[laser]]'s retailer''
* [https://bristol.hackspace.org.uk/wiki/doku.php?id=equipment:a0_laser_cutter:prep Guide by the Bristol Hackspace]

[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

<references />

Woodturning Tools

2026-06-17T20:38:41Z

NitramLegov: close sup tag

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Woodturning Tools
|german=Drechseleisen|image=cheap woodturning tools.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Drechseleisen, Drechselmesser
|type=
|material=[[wood]]
|used with=[[Wood Lathe|wood lathe]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]<br>(wall above wood lathe)
|access=read this page; [[Woodturning Introduction|woodturning introduction]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=
}}
Once you've got a nice [[Woodturning Blanks|turning blank]] spinning on the [[Wood Lathe|wood lathe]], you'll want to shape it by holding something sharp to it. We're only getting started with [[woodturning]], but as we learn this page will grow with information about various forms of turning tools (a {{mpi}} will be nice for easy navigation).

In early 2018, [[Lukas]] got a cheap beginner's set consisting of
* ''some kind of'' 12 mm [[#Gouges|gouge]]
** not a roughing gouge: too narrow & shallow
** not a ''Formröhre'': mostly rectangular when seen from above, no "nose"
** looks a lot like an [https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-rider-out-cannel-firmer-gouge-wooden-handle-12mm-103830 out-cannel firmer gouge] (not a turning tool?!)
* 26 mm [[#Skew Chisels|skew chisel]] (''Drechselbeitel'')
* 13 mm round nose [[#Scrapers|scraper]] (''Schaber, rund'')
* 4 & 6 mm [[Parting Tools|parting tools]] (''Abstechstähle'')
<br>which we will gradually expand or replace with better ones as needed:
* [https://www.woodlathesinc.com/products/crown-1-1-4-oval-skew-chisel?variant=51278810438 Crown 1" oval skew chisel] (added 2019-5)
* [https://www.narextools.cz/en/roughing-gouge-hss-8194 Narex 3/4" roughing gouge] (added 2019-11)
* [https://www.kirschen-shop.de/de/1629004_Drechslerbeitel-Abstech-langes-Heft_p3640178.html Kirschen 4 mm parting tool (#1629004)] & [https://www.kirschen-shop.de/de/1649020_Drechslerbeitel-Ausdrehstahl-langes-Heft_p3640183.html Kirschen 20 mm round side cutting scraper (#1649020)] as a [[loan]] from Micha
* a ton of tools from [[Jrosy]] (added in 2022)

'''CAUTION: the simple skew chisel and scraper were misused and badly bent, currently they are "fixed" but may bend or even break easier next time! Stop turning if ''anything'' seems wrong with these or other tools.'''

__TOC__
<br clear=all>
== Gouges ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Woodturning Gouges
|image=woodturning gouge.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Drechselröhren, Drehröhren;<br>''Schruppröhren, Formröhren, Schalenröhren''
|type=[[woodturning]] tool
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=
|extrabox=yes
}}
Gouges are perhaps the most frequently used woodturning tools and are very useful to get your workpiece round in the first place.

We only have a very uncharacteristic gouge at the moment. There are several specialized types including ''roughing'', ''spindle'' and ''bowl'' gouges, all of which may be sharpened at different angles to produce an even bigger variety.

If you would like to see more gouges in our shared selection, please make suggestions and also let us know whether you would be willing to throw in a few €! In the meantime, you are welcome to borrow [[User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Drechseleisen|Lukas' private gouges]] for a beer or so ;-)

* ''basics: http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges1.html''
* ''how to sharpen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-nTHpfcwkQ (first half)''
* ''"detail" gouges: http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges7.html''

=== Roughing Gouges ===
[[File:captive rings - test04.JPG|thumb|right|300px|typical marks during roughing]]
Avoid contacting the workpiece with one of the corners! These gouges are usually forged from a flat piece of steel and therefore less strong than those that are milled from a solid round piece - they are sometimes reported to break near the handle.<sup> [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges2.html]</sup>

[http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges2.html This article] may help you with your first attempts of using a spindle roughing gouge. Roughing gouges take the same shaving across their entire cutting edge so it's a good idea to keep slowly twisting the tool to balance the wear over the entire edge (otherwise you'll quickly have a dull spot in the middle while the sides are still sharp).

Also have a look at [https://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/wood-turning/techniques/beginners-guides/the-spindle-roughing-gouge/ this beginner's guide] for some nice illustrations as well as detailed descriptions of the cuts you can make with this tool.

[[File:roughing_gouge.svg|left|300px]]

<br clear=left>

=== Spindle Gouges ===
Called ''"Formröhren"'' in German, these gouges are okay for rounding a spindle if you don't have a proper roughing gouge but are more suited for ''forming'' cuts in an already round workpiece.

[[File:spindle_gouge.svg|left|300px]]

<br clear=left>
=== Bowl Gouges ===
Bowl gouges are most aggressive at the sides, so you should avoid to contact the workpiece with the entire bevel. Instead, they are somewhat "rolled" into the desired cut position. This basic "tip cut" technique is nicely explained in [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges3.html this article].

'''advanced techniques'''
* with special "fingernail" or "swept-back" grinds, [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges4.html "wing cuts"] are also possible for advanced turners
* [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges5.html sidegrain turning] (needed to make bowls)
* [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges6.html steps of bowl turning]

[[File:bowl_gouge.svg|left|300px]]
[[File:Fingernail_bowl_gouge.svg|300px]]

<br clear=all>

== Skew Chisels ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Skew Chisels
|image=skew chisel.JPG
|synonyms=woodturning chisels, "skews";<br>DE: Drechselbeitel, Drehmeißel,<br>schräge Flachstähle
|type=[[woodturning]] tool
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=
|extrabox=yes
}}
'''Not to be confused with "regular" [[Bevel Edge Chisels|bevel edge chisels]]!'''

Also called the "woodturner's plane" - can create nice surfaces, but prone to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOvF5f1phhY "catching" on the workpiece] if you're not experienced!

Besides the video linked above, you should have a look at this nice writeup on how to [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/skews1.html control the skew and prevent catches] before attempting to use it.

Once you get the hang of it, a skew chisel is actually a very versatile tool and can be used for [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/skews2.html a variety of different cuts].

[[File:skew chisel.svg|thumb|left|300px|s: skew angle, b: bevel angle]]

We have two one-inch wide (25-26 mm) skew chisels in the woodturning area: a cheap and rather short "regular" one and a [https://www.woodlathesinc.com/products/crown-1-1-4-oval-skew-chisel?variant=51278810438 ''Crown'' oval skew chisel] that is supposed to glide across the toolrest more easily and definitely has a better blade material.

<br clear=all>

== Scrapers ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Woodturning Scrapers
|image=woodturning scraper.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Schaber, Drechselschaber,<br>Flachstähle, Schlichtstähle,<br>Schrotstähle
|type=[[woodturning]] tool
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=[[Card Scrapers|card scrapers]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
Scrapers are not really used for cutting but have an edge with a burr similar to that on a [[Card Scrapers|card scraper]]. Instead of removing a lot of wood you can use this tool for delicate finishing touches. Read more about this tool [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/scrapers1.html here (Doc Green)].

Contrary to pretty much all other woodturning tools, you do not let the scraper "ride" on its bevel. To make sure the workpiece always runs "away" from its edge and you do not get a catch, use this tool '''below the workpiece axis for outside work''' and '''above for inside work'''.<sup> [http://www.holzwerken.net/Wissen/Tipps-Tricks/Drechseln/Mal-hoch-mal-niedrig-den-Schaber-ansetzen]</sup>

We have one round nose scraper to start with.

[[File:woodturning scraper.svg|left|300px]]
<br clear=left>
=== Side Cutting Scrapers ===
[[File:Ausdrehstahl rund.jpg|thumb|tip of the 20 mm "Kirschen" side cutting scraper]]
Micha [[loan]]ed the Space a side cutting scraper ''(Ausdrehstahl)'' (round, 20 mm) to work on the insides of bowls or similar pieces!

This tool looks different of course, but is used and sharpened in the same basic way as a "front cutting" scraper.

<br clear=all>

== Parting Tools ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Parting Tools
|image=parting tools.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Abstechstähle, Abstecher,<br>Spitzstahl ("Diamant-Form")
|type=[[woodturning]] tool
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=
|extrabox=yes
}}
Parting tools can be used for simple grooves or to "part off" your finished piece from the waste. However, parting can be very dangerous if the cut is not widened properly and the high friction causes the tool to get jammed in its cut!<sup> [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/mishappartingtool.html]</sup>

In many cases, and when working between centers, it is advisable to turn the lathe off and do the final parting cut with a [[saw]] instead.

When your [[Woodturning Blanks|blank]] has knots or split edges, a parting tool may be more suitable than a [[Roughing Gouge|roughing gouge]] to get it round.<sup> [https://www.selbst.de/holz-drechseln-5223.html]</sup>

We have a "diamond" parting tool that is tapered behind the edge to avoid binding and burn marks<sup> [https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/turn2.html]</sup> and two with ''other geometry'' (Kirschen: seems to be a narrow "Bedan" shape).

''=> [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/partingtools.html Doc Green: Parting Tools]''<br>
''=> [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwEnMS9Xkg4 HolzWerken: Beim Drechseln oft unterschätzt - der Abstecher (DE)]''

[[File:toy wheel turning 2.JPG|thumb|left|350 px|simple parting cut to make wheels for a [[Project:Tigerente|''Tigerente'']]]]
[[File:Kirschen Abstecher.jpg|thumb|"European style" parting tool made by Kirschen - NOT suitable for soft wood!]]

<br clear=all>

== Further Information ==
* thespruce.com
** [https://www.thespruce.com/the-profiles-used-in-turning-spindles-3536934 the four tools needed for spindle profiles]
** [https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-use-a-skew-chisel-3536930 how to use a skew chisel]
* [https://makezine.com/2015/08/13/quick-guide-7-basic-woodturning-tools/ Makezine: "7 Basic Woodturning Tools"]
* Video Tutorials
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kunZIzNNxUY Understanding a Starter Set of Lathe Chisels] - simple but safe techniques for beginners

[[Category:Woodturning]]

Japanese Leather Knife

2026-06-17T20:38:17Z

NitramLegov: close sup tag

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Japanese Leather Knife
|german=Japanisches Ledermesser|image=Japanese leather knife.JPG
|synonyms=Japanese skiving knife;<br>DE: japanisches Ledermesser
|type=
|status=
|material=[[leather]]
|used with=[[Cutting Mat|cutting mat]] or [[poundoboard]]
|location=
|access=
|tutors=
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=[[skivers]], other [[knives]]
}}
A knife. From Japan. For [[leather]]!

[[File:Japanese skiving knife demo.JPG|200px|left]]
You hold this kind of knife in your fist with the blade down and bevel facing inwards/towards the workpiece (i.e. to the right when using your left hand).<sup> [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVTi42qjcRU&t=5m]</sup>

<br clear=left>
Besides cutting, a Japanese leather knife can also be used for skiving ''(Ausschärfen)''.<sup> [https://lederhammer.de/epages/bf6d5910-97c9-4c98-9c14-cc359a5bb67f.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bf6d5910-97c9-4c98-9c14-cc359a5bb67f/Products/LM-CJ-39]</sup>

== Sheath ==
The blade is currently just protected by a piece of cardboard, but [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKJx-Bv4Sjo making a sheath] would be a great beginner's project!

[[Category:Leathercraft]]

Network

2026-06-16T16:41:16Z

NitramLegov: /* Network Infrastructure */ CNC Switch added

From a physical perspective, the network at the CoMakingSpace is built up as follows:
<mermaid> graph LR
subgraph lan [LAN]
0[CommonRoom Fritz!Box] --> A[CommonRoom UCG Ultra]
A --> C[Seminar Corner Switch]
A --> E[Office Router]
C --> F[Canon MF752Cdw]
C --> G[WebOS TV Left]
C --> H[WebOS TV Right]
click A "http://10.0.0.1" _blank
click K "http://homeassistant.local:8123" _blank
end

subgraph workshop[Wood Workshop-LAN]
A --> D[Wood Workshop Switch]
D --> S[Logo-Felder_RL_160]
D --> I[Wood Workshop Access Point]
end

subgraph eroom [E-Room-LAN]
A --> B[E-Room Switch]
B --> WCNC1(Workbee CNC)
click WCNC1 "https://workbeecnc.fritz.box" _blank
B --> WCNC2(Workbee CNC Tablet)
B --> J(Epilog Legend 36Ext)
B --> K[HomeAssistant]

end
subgraph wlan [WLAN]
A -.-> L(Laser PC)
A -.-> M(Slicing PC)
A -.-> N(P7)
A -.-> O(P8)
A -.-> P(ESPHome_Garbage_Sign)
A -.-> Q(Trash Tracker)
A -.-> R(prusa-link)
end
style wlan fill:#6dc8fc
</mermaid>

The main UCG Ultra provides IPs within the 10.0.0.0/8

The DHCP Server provides dynamic IP adresses for clients in the range 10.100.0.0 - 10.100.255.255

All other IP Adresses are static adresses and listed below

===Network Infrastructure===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| UCG Ultra
|10.0.0.1
|-
|Office Fritz!Box
|10.0.0.2
|-
|Kitchen Switch
|10.0.0.3
|-
|E-Room Switch
|10.0.0.4
|-
|Wood Workshop Switch
|10.0.0.5
|-
|Seminar Corner Switch
|10.0.0.6
|-
|Office Switch
|10.0.0.7
|-
|CNC Switch
|10.0.0.8
|-
|Kitchen AP
|10.0.1.1
|-
|Wood Workshop AP
|10.0.1.2
|}

=== Access Infrastructure ===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| CoMS Access Controller
|10.0.2.0
|-
|Main Entrance - Common Room Door Hub
|10.0.2.1
|-
|Main Entrance - Common Room Reader
|10.0.2.2
|-
|Common Room - Workshop
|10.0.2.3
|-
|Common Room - E-Room
|10.0.2.4
|-
|Common Room - Storage
|10.0.2.5
|-
|Common Room - Office
|10.0.2.6
|-
|Common Room - Manager Storage
|10.0.2.7
|}

===IoT-related devices===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Homeassistant
|10.1.0.1
|-
|OfficePi
|10.1.0.2
|-
|ScannerPi
|10.1.0.3
|-
|Shelly - RouterTable (COMS00154)
|10.1.0.6
|-
|<s>Shelly - Felder AF 14 (COMS00073)</s>
|<s>10.1.0.7</s>
|-
|<s>Shelly - Festool CTM26 E AC (COMS00021) (Chip)</s>
|<s>10.1.0.8</s>
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00159)
|10.1.0.9
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00158)
|10.1.0.10
|-
|Logo-LaserAbluft
|10.1.0.11
|-
|ESPHome_Garbage_Sign
|10.1.0.12
|-
|Trash Tracker
|10.1.0.13
|-
|Logo-Felder_RL_160
|10.1.0.14
|-
|LGwebOSTV (Left)
|10.1.0.15
|-
|LGwebOSTV (Right)
|10.1.0.16
|-
|Tasmota-MembersWall
|10.1.0.17
|-
|ESPHome-Plug-InfraredHeater
|10.1.0.18
|-
|MembersWall ESP
|10.1.0.19
|}

=== Machines===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Laser PC
|10.2.0.1
|-
|Slicing PC
|10.2.0.2
|-
|[[Workbee]] CNC Router
|10.2.0.3
|-
|Workbee CNC Tablet
|10.2.0.4
|-
|BambuLab ([[P7]])
|10.2.0.5
|-
|BambuLab ([[P8]])
|10.2.0.6
|-
|prusa-link
|10.2.0.8
|-
|epilog legend 36ext
|10.2.0.9
|-
|[[Laser Printers|Canon MF752Cdw]]
|10.2.0.10
|-
|Duet "Blackbox" CNC
|10.2.0.11
|}

===Configuration Changes ===

If you need to change settings for our Network, please contact {{IT-manager}}.

[[Category:Facilities]]