CoMakingSpace Wiki - User Contributions [en]

Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1

2026-08-28T07:22:13Z

NitramLegov: Content draft

==Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|german=Overlock-Nähmaschine
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Overlock-Nähmaschine
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html manualslib]
|material=[[Material:Fabric|Fabric]], [[Material:Thread|Thread]]
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}

=== Settings and consumables ===
{| class="wikitable"
! Property
! Range or type
|-
| Threads
| 2, 3 or 4
|-
| Needles
| 1 or 2; HA × 1 No. 11–14 or 130/705 No. 75–90
|-
| Stitch length
| 1–4 mm
|-
| Seam width
| Right needle: 3.0–4.5 mm; left needle: 5.2–6.7 mm
|-
| Differential feed
| 1:0.7–1:2.0
|}

=== Threading ===
For a complete 4-thread setup, thread the machine in this order:

# upper looper — red
# lower looper — yellow
# right needle — green
# left needle — blue

Refer to the manual ([https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html?page=10#manual page 10], if you need to thread from scratch, [https://www.manualslib.de/manual/38314/Silvercrest-Son-90-A1.html?page=17#manual page 17], if you need to change once specific thread). A visual explanation can be found on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mpv7XRngp-0 YouTube].

=== Basic use ===
# Extend the thread stand fully and fit the waste container.
# Check the threading, needle position, knife position and selected settings.
# Make a test seam on a scrap of the same fabric. Adjust one setting at a time using the tables in the manual.
# Lower the presser foot and guide the fabric edge towards the knife. Let the feed dogs move the fabric.
# At the end of the seam, continue sewing until a thread chain of approximately 5 cm has formed.
# Switch off the machine and remove fabric scraps and loose threads.

=== Cleaning and maintenance ===
Unplug the machine before cleaning or maintenance.

* Regularly remove lint and fabric scraps from the looper and knife area with the supplied brush.
* Wipe the exterior with a slightly damp cloth.
* Lubricate only the points shown in the manual and use sewing-machine oil only.
* Stop using the machine and report the problem if a needle or knife is damaged, the machine jams or it no longer cuts cleanly.
{{Commissioning
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Sewing Machine

2026-08-27T11:12:48Z

NitramLegov: Remove Overlock part, which is now on a separate page

With a sewing machine, you can [[Sewing|sew]] different [[fabrics]] to each other. This is especially useful for making/changing clothes, bags, curtains or similar things.

<br clear="all" />

{{#ask:
[[MachineType::Sewing Machine]]
|order=ascending
|format=embedded
|embedonly=yes
}}

<br clear="all" />

[[Category:Sewing]]

Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1

2026-08-27T09:16:06Z

NitramLegov: /* Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1 */

Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1

2026-08-27T09:12:18Z

NitramLegov: Creation of the stub

==Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|german=
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=Done
|NamingComment=Silvercrest Overlock SON 90 A1
|Picture=
|PictureComment=
|Manual=
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
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}}

Category:AI-Slop

2026-08-23T19:34:36Z

NitramLegov:

This is a category for pages which have likely been created purely by some LLM and copy-pasted into the wiki without review or editing.

These pages need to be reviewed and adjusted.

[[Category:Maintenance Categories]]

Wire Rope Pullers & Wire Rope Shears

2026-08-23T19:30:54Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Wire Rope Pullers & Cutters
|german= Kabelzieher und Kabelschneider
|image= Cablecutter.jpg
|synonyms="cable pullers"/"cable cutters"; DE:Kabelzieher und Kabelschneider
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<h1 style="color: #1a365d; border-bottom: 2px solid #e2e8f0; padding-bottom: 8px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-top: 0;">Eldi Cable Pullers & Cable Cutters</h1>

<p style="font-size: 1.1em; color: #4a5568; font-family: sans-serif;">This entry covers professional workshop pliers designed by <strong>Eldi</strong> for tensioning, cutting, and securing bicycle brake and derailleur cables (Bowden cables).</p>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #3182ce; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2b6cb0; font-size: 1.17em;">1. Fourth-Hand Cable Stretcher / Puller (Green & Red Straight Handles)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Tool Type:</strong> Inner Cable Tensioner / "Fourth Hand" Tool.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Function:</strong> Used to grip and pull inner stainless steel cables taut with high leverage while keeping one hand free to tighten the anchor bolt on the brake caliper or derailleur.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Key Feature:</strong> Equipped with a spring-loaded locking ratchet/lever that holds the cable tension automatically, ensuring precise brake and shifting setup.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 32px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #4a5568; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #4a5568; font-size: 1.17em;">2. Heavy-Duty Wire & Cable Cutters (Red Shaped Handles)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Tool Type:</strong> Bicycle-Specific Cable & Housing Cutter.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Design Feature:</strong> Features curved, overlapping shearing blades (shear-cut style) rather than standard diagonal cutting jaws.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Function:</strong> Delivers clean, square cuts on tough outer spiral-wound brake housing and linear-strand shifter housing without crushing or fraying the inner steel wires.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="background: #fffaf0; border: 1px solid #feebc8; border-radius: 4px; padding: 16px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-bottom: 20px;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #dd6b20; font-size: 1.17em;">Workshop Practice Tips</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; color: #744210;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 6px;"><strong>Blade Maintenance:</strong> Never use bicycle cable cutters to cut hardened steel spokes or master link pins, as this will instantly chip or dull the specialized shearing blades.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0;"><strong>Housing Prep:</strong> Always use a pick or awl to open up the inner plastic liner of the cable housing after cutting to ensure frictionless cable movement.</li>
</ul>
</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Wheel Truing Stands

2026-08-23T19:30:37Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Wheel Truing Stands
|german=Radzentrierständer
|synonyms=bicycle truing stands; DE: Radzentrierständer, Zentrierständer, Fahrrad-Zentrierständer
|image= Wheel_Truing_Stand_–_Preciray_.jpg
|type=workholding, measuring
|status=
|material=[[bicycle]] wheels
|used with=[[Spoke Key|spoke key]]
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=read this page
|tutors=
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=''Zentrierlehre''
}}
Wheel truing stands are used to construct or repair [[bicycle]] wheels that run "true" (centered and without wobble).

Here are a nice [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tP3uAy1YQpQ video tutorial] and a [https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-and-rim-truing blog post] that may help first-time users!

== Preciray Type B ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Preciray Type B
|german=Fahrrad-Zentrierstäder
|image= Wheel_Truing_Stand_–_Preciray_.jpg
|status=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=read this page
|tutors=
|manual=
|extrabox=yes
}}

<p>The <strong>Preciray Type B</strong> is an extremely robust, heavy-duty professional wheel truing stand built for continuous workshop use. This tool was specifically designed for high-volume wheel building, truing, and straightening in bicycle factories, frame builder workshops, and racing teams. Its defining feature is a purely mechanical needle gauge that displays lateral and radial runout simultaneously with a significant magnification.</p>

<h3>Technical Specifications & Features</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Manufacturer:</strong> Ateliers J. Martin (Belgium), historically also distributed via VAR (France).</li>
<li><strong>Weight:</strong> Approx. 25 kg (solid cast iron/steel construction for absolute stability and zero vibration).</li>
<li><strong>Design:</strong> Vertical, synchronously adjustable support arms to accommodate different hub widths.</li>
<li><strong>Measurement Principle:</strong> Purely mechanical via roller feelers and lever linkages (no failure-prone electronics).</li>
</ul>

<h3>How It Works & Key Features</h3>
<p>Unlike modern standard truing stands, where the mechanic visually checks the rim against scraping edges or reads dial indicators, the Preciray utilizes a unique, analog needle display system.</p>

<ol>
<li><strong>Simultaneous Measurement:</strong> Two ball-bearing roller feelers run directly on the rim shoulder (therefore, it is ideally used on bare rims without tires installed).</li>
<li><strong>Mechanical Leverage:</strong> The rollers transfer the slightest imperfections through a lever mechanism to two delicate indicator needles on a front-facing scale. The movement is mechanically amplified by approximately three times (3x).</li>
<li><strong>Truing While Seated:</strong> The mechanic typically sits in front of the stand and looks down onto the display panel. Spinning the wheel instantly shows how lateral runout (right needle) and radial runout (left needle) change in sync.</li>
<li><strong>Automatic Centering (Dishing):</strong> Thanks to the synchronous adjustment of the support arms, the wheel is automatically perfectly centered relative to the hub axle when clamped. This makes a separate dishing tool unnecessary in most cases.</li>
</ol>

<h3>Advantages and Disadvantages in Modern Workshop Use</h3>

<table border="1" cellpadding="8" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%;">
<thead>
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<th style="text-align: left; width: 50%;">Advantages</th>
<th style="text-align: left; width: 50%;">Disadvantages / Limitations</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td valign="top">
<ul>
<li><strong>Extreme Durability:</strong> Engineered for decades of industrial-grade heavy use.</li>
<li><strong>Incredible Precision:</strong> The 3x mechanical amplification makes even the most minor nuances instantly visible.</li>
<li><strong>Ergonomics:</strong> Reading the needles is significantly easier on the eyes during long shifts compared to staring at tiny gaps.</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td valign="top">
<ul>
<li><strong>Time-Consuming with Tires:</strong> Since the roller feelers require a clean rim shoulder, quick touch-ups on wheels with tires inflated are more cumbersome.</li>
<li><strong>Axle Standards:</strong> Originally optimized for classic quick-releases and solid threaded axles. Modern thru-axles (Boost standard) require special axle adapters.</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]
== Simple Truing Stand ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Wheel Truing Stand
|image=wheel truing stand.JPG
|status=
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=read this page
|manual=
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Moritz|Moritz]] donated a simple wheel truing stand way before we developed the [[Bike Lounge]]. It can be used to ''laterally'' true bike wheels, i.e. make sure the rim of the wheel lies exactly in one plane and does not touch the brakes occasionally.

[[Category:Cycling]]
[[Category:Repair]]

Headset Spanners

2026-08-23T19:30:04Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Headset Spanners
|german= Steuersatzschlüssel
|image= Headset_Spanners.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Steuersatzschlüssel
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<h1 style="color: #1a365d; border-bottom: 2px solid #e2e8f0; padding-bottom: 8px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-top: 0;">Wiki Entry: Eldi Professional Headset & Cone Spanners</h1>

<p style="font-size: 1.1em; color: #4a5568; font-family: sans-serif;">This entry covers the professional-grade, ultra-flat workshop wrenches manufactured by the historic German brand <strong>Eldi (Eugen Lingelbach Darmstadt)</strong>. These tools are industry standards for servicing vintage cup-and-cone hubs and threaded bicycle headsets.</p>


<div style="background: #f7fafc; border: 1px solid #cbd5e0; border-radius: 4px; padding: 12px; margin-bottom: 24px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 0.95em;">
<strong style="color: #2d3748;">Brand Overview:</strong> Eldi was a premier German manufacturer of heavy-duty bicycle workshop tools. Known for using high-grade, extremely hardened tool steel, these vintage wrenches are highly sought after today for their durability and resistance to rounding off flat components under high torque.
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #3182ce; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2b6cb0; font-size: 1.17em;">1. Vinyl-Grip Flat Wrenches (Blue / Green Handles)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Tool Types:</strong> Oversized Cone Spanners & Threaded Headset Wrenches.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Key Sizes:</strong> Typically found in 30 mm, 32 mm, 36 mm, and 40 mm (for headsets), as well as standard hub sizes like 15 mm.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Function:</strong> Designed with an ultra-thin profile to fit into narrow wrench flats on hub cones and locknuts without binding adjacent parts.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Workshop Design:</strong> The color-coded vinyl dipped handles provided comfort during all-day workshop use and allowed mechanics to quickly identify sizes on the tool board.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 32px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #4a5568; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #4a5568; font-size: 1.17em;">2. Offset Double-Open Ended Headset Spanners (All-Steel)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Tool Type:</strong> Traditional Chromed Headset Wrenches.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Design Feature:</strong> Features a distinct angled/cranked (offset) head profile at both ends.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Function:</strong> The offset bend allows the mechanic to flush-seat the wrench onto flat headset locknuts, providing proper hand clearance and preventing scraped knuckles against the bicycle frame, stem, or brake cables.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="background: #fffaf0; border: 1px solid #feebc8; border-radius: 4px; padding: 16px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-bottom: 20px;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #dd6b20; font-size: 1.17em;">Collector & Workshop Notes</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; color: #744210;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 6px;"><strong>Value & Rarity:</strong> Since Eldi ceased production, these tool sets have high collector value in the vintage restoration scene (especially for classic European racing and touring bikes).</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0;"><strong>Care Tip:</strong> Keep the bare steel components lightly oiled to prevent surface rust, and avoid using them with cheater bars, as excessive leverage can widen the precise jaw tolerances over time.</li>
</ul>
</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Crimper

2026-08-23T19:29:42Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Cable Cutter and Crimper
|german= Fahrrad-Bowdenzugschneider mit integrierter Crimpfunktion
|image= Crimper.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Fahrrad-Bowdenzugschneider mit integrierter Crimpfunktion
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<h1 style="color: #1a365d; border-bottom: 2px solid #e2e8f0; padding-bottom: 8px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-top: 0;">Wiki Entry: Professional Cable Cutters & Crimpers</h1>

<p style="font-size: 1.1em; color: #4a5568; font-family: sans-serif;">This entry covers the dual-purpose workshop cutters and crimping pliers manufactured by <strong>Eldi</strong> and <strong>Park Tool (CN-10)</strong>. These specialized tools are designed to both cleanly slice bicycle cables and crimp protective end caps/ferrules.</p>


<div style="background: #f7fafc; border: 1px solid #cbd5e0; border-radius: 4px; padding: 16px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-bottom: 24px;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2d3748; font-size: 1.17em;">Understanding the Design: Dual Functionality</h3>
<p style="margin: 0 0 12px 0; color: #4a5568;">At first glance, the circular openings in the jaws resemble a press or crimping die. However, these are <strong>heavy-duty combination tools</strong> that handle two distinct workshop tasks:</p>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; color: #4a5568;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 6px;"><strong>The Shear Cut (Primary Function):</strong> Unlike hardware store wire cutters that pinch and crush, these blades slide past each other like high-precision scissors. The circular jaw pocket encircles the tough steel cable from all sides during the cut, preventing the brake or shifter housing from flattening or fraying.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0;"><strong>The Built-in Crimper (Secondary Function):</strong> The notch located just below the main cutting jaw or near the center pivot is engineered specifically to crush/crimp aluminum cable end caps (protective sleeves) and housing ferrules into place, ensuring the cable ends do not unspool or fray over time.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #3182ce; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2b6cb0; font-size: 1.17em;">1. Eldi Heavy-Duty Cutter & Crimper (Black Handles)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Identification:</strong> Stamped with the classic "Eldi" logo on the hardened tool steel head.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Design:</strong> Features a spring-loaded return mechanism and a heavy wire loop closure latch at the handle base for safe storage.</li>
</ul>
</div>

<div style="margin-bottom: 32px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #4a5568; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #4a5568; font-size: 1.17em;">2. Park Tool CN-10 Cable Cutter (Blue Handle)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Identification:</strong> Easily spotted on the tool board by the iconic Park Tool blue vinyl handle grip.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Design:</strong> Uses cold-formed, heat-treated steel jaws featuring two dedicated crimping sections for clean ferrule deformation.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="background: #fffaf0; border: 1px solid #feebc8; border-radius: 4px; padding: 16px; font-family: sans-serif; margin-bottom: 20px;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #dd6b20; font-size: 1.17em;">Workshop Best Practices</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; color: #744210;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 6px;"><strong>Blade Protection:</strong> Never use these specialized shearing jaws to cut hardened wheel spokes, cotter pins, or heavy chain master-links. Hard steel will instantly dent or chip the curved cutting edges, ruining them for cables.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0;"><strong>Ferrule Placement:</strong> Place the aluminum end cap entirely within the secondary crimping notch before applying force. Using the main shear blade to crimp can accidentally slice right through the thin metal cap.</li>
</ul>
</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Combination Headset Wrench / Hook Spanner

2026-08-23T19:29:19Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Combination Headset Wrench / Hook Spanner
|german= Hakenschlüssel / Nutmutternschlüssel
|image= Combination_Headset_Wrench.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Hakenschlüssel / Nutmutternschlüssel
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<h1 style="color: #1a365d; border-bottom: 2px solid #e2e8f0; padding-bottom: 8px; font-family: sans-serif;">Wiki Entry: Special Tools for Classic Bicycle Bearings</h1>

<p style="font-size: 1.1em; color: #4a5568; font-family: sans-serif;">This guide describes flat specialty wrenches primarily required for maintaining and dismantling historic bearing components (vintage bicycles, classic threaded headsets, and adjustable cup-and-cone bottom brackets).</p>


<pre style="background: #f7fafc; border: 1px solid #cbd5e0; padding: 12px; border-radius: 4px; overflow-x: auto; font-family: monospace; font-size: 0.9em; color: #4a5568;">
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+

| [Tool 1] [Tool 2] [Tool 3] [Tool 4] |
| Hook Spanner Combo Headset Wrench Hook Spanner Shimano TL |
| (Black) (32 mm / Pin Face) (Curved) (36 / 15 mm)|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
</pre>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #2d3748; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2d3748;">1. Hook Spanner / Lockring Wrench (Black)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Category:</strong> Bottom bracket tool.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Main Function:</strong> Loosening and tightening the notched lockring on the left side of adjustable cup-and-cone bottom brackets.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Key Feature:</strong> The hook at the top engages securely into the lockring notches to prevent slipping.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #3182ce; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #2b6cb0;">2. Combination Headset Wrench (Silver, 32 mm)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Category:</strong> Steering and bottom bracket tool.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Main Function (Bottom):</strong> The open 32 mm wrench is used for adjusting and locking classic threaded headsets (fork nuts).</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Extra Function (Top):</strong> The round head with integrated pins or cutouts acts as a face spanner or grabber for specific bearing cups.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 24px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #4a5568; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #4a5568;">3. Curved Hook Spanner (Silver)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Category:</strong> Universal lockring wrench.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Main Function:</strong> An ergonomic alternative to the straight hook spanner, used for less accessible lockrings on bottom brackets or older headsets.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Key Feature:</strong> The curved body optimizes leverage and keeps fingers clear of the bicycle frame.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="margin-bottom: 32px; padding: 16px; background: #fff; border-left: 4px solid #dd6b20; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(0,0,0,0.1); font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #dd6b20;">4. Shimano Combination Wrench (Silver, 36 mm / 15 mm)</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Category:</strong> Drivetrain and hub tool.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Manufacturer/Type:</strong> Vintage original Shimano tool (historic TL-FC series).</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Main Function (Top):</strong> The closed 36 mm ring wrench fits precisely onto the right-side (fixed) cup of traditional bottom brackets.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 4px;"><strong>Main Function (Bottom):</strong> The open 15 mm wrench serves as a heavy-duty pedal wrench or for loosening wheel axle nuts.</li>
</ul>
</div>


<div style="background: #fffaf0; border: 1px solid #feebc8; border-radius: 4px; padding: 16px; font-family: sans-serif;">
<h3 style="margin-top: 0; color: #dd6b20;">Workshop Practice Tips</h3>
<ul style="margin: 0; padding-left: 20px; color: #744210;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 6px;"><strong>Slip Prevention:</strong> Because these wrenches are very thin, they can easily slip under high torque. Always ensure the tool sits perfectly flat against the component.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0;"><strong>Compatibility:</strong> Modern cartridge or Outboard/Hollowtech bottom brackets do not use these standards; this toolset is primarily relevant for vintage restorations.</li>
</ul>
</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Chainring Straightening Tool

2026-08-23T19:28:59Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Chainring Straightening Tool
|german= Richtwerkzeug für Kettenblätter und Kurbelsterne
|image= ChainringStraighteningTool_.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Richtwerkzeug für Kettenblätter und Kurbelsterne
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<div class="wiki-tool-article" style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; color: #333; line-height: 1.6; max-width: 800px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 20px;">

<h1 style="color: #0056b3; border-bottom: 2px solid #0056b3; padding-bottom: 8px; margin-top: 0;">VAR #940 Chainring & Disc Brake Rotor Straightening Tool</h1>

<h2 style="color: #2c3e50; border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd; padding-bottom: 5px; margin-top: 25px;">1. Overview & Purpose</h2>
<p>The <strong>VAR #940</strong> is a professional-grade shop tool designed for straightening bent chainrings, crankset spiders, and disc brake rotors. It provides mechanics with the necessary leverage to correct lateral runout (wobbles) directly on the bicycle without removing the components.</p>

<h2 style="color: #2c3e50; border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd; padding-bottom: 5px; margin-top: 25px;">2. Technical Specifications</h2>
<ul style="padding-left: 20px; margin-bottom: 15px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Manufacturer:</strong> VAR Tools (France)</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Model/Part Number:</strong> 940</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Material:</strong> Heavy-duty, hardened tool steel</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Handle:</strong> High-traction, ergonomic grip (classic orange/black vinyl)</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Working Ends:</strong> Dual-slotted head with two distinct slot widths</li>
</ul>

<h2 style="color: #2c3e50; border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd; padding-bottom: 5px; margin-top: 25px;">3. Key Features</h2>
<ul style="padding-left: 20px; margin-bottom: 15px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 8px;"><strong>Dual-Slot Design:</strong>
<ul style="padding-left: 20px; margin-top: 5px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 3px;"><em>Narrow Slot:</em> Optimized for individual chainring teeth, thin chainring bodies, and standard disc brake rotors.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 3px;"><em>Wide Slot:</em> Designed for thicker aluminum/steel chainrings and crankset spider arms.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 8px;"><strong>High Leverage:</strong> The long handle minimizes physical effort required to bend hardened materials back into alignment.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 8px;"><strong>Component Protection:</strong> Precision-machined slots distribute pressure evenly to prevent scratching, marring, or flattening of teeth.</li>
</ul>

<h2 style="color: #2c3e50; border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd; padding-bottom: 5px; margin-top: 25px;">4. Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)</h2>

<h3 style="color: #34495e; margin-top: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px;">For Chainrings:</h3>
<ol style="padding-left: 20px; margin-bottom: 15px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Identify the Bend:</strong> Spin the crankset and visually locate the exact spot where the chainring wobbles or rubs against the front derailleur.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Position the Tool:</strong> Slide the appropriate slot of the VAR #940 over the bent section or tooth.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Apply Pressure:</strong> Apply gentle, controlled leverage in the opposite direction of the bend. <em>Note: Always practice incremental adjustments—bend a little, check, and repeat if necessary.</em></li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Verify:</strong> Spin the crank again to ensure proper alignment and smooth chain clearance.</li>
</ol>

<h3 style="color: #34495e; margin-top: 15px; margin-bottom: 10px;">For Disc Brake Rotors:</h3>
<ol style="padding-left: 20px; margin-bottom: 15px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Locate the Rub:</strong> Look through the brake caliper assembly while spinning the wheel to find the high spot rubbing against the brake pads.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Engage:</strong> Place the narrow slot over the affected area of the rotor track.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Correct:</strong> Apply minimal force to true the rotor. <em>Note: Rotors are highly sensitive; use very light pressure.</em></li>
</ol>

<h2 style="color: #2c3e50; border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd; padding-bottom: 5px; margin-top: 25px;">5. Safety & Maintenance</h2>
<div class="wiki-warning-box" style="background-color: #fff3cd; border-left: 4px solid #ffc107; padding: 12px; margin-bottom: 15px; border-radius: 4px;">
<strong style="color: #856404;">Safety Warning:</strong> Wear protective eyewear. Keep fingers clear of the chainring teeth and chain to avoid pinch hazards. Never use this tool on carbon fiber components.
</div>
<ul style="padding-left: 20px; margin-bottom: 15px;">
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Maintenance:</strong> Wipe the tool down after use with a clean rag.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 5px;"><strong>Rust Prevention:</strong> Periodically apply a light coat of anti-corrosion oil to the bare steel slots.</li>
</ul>

</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Bike Repair Stands

2026-08-23T19:28:09Z

NitramLegov: /* VAR Dual Repair Stand */ Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Bike Repair Stands
|german=Fahrrad-Montageständer
|image=bike repair stand.JPG
|synonyms=bike workstands; DE: Fahrrad-Montageständer
|type=workholding
|status=
|material=[[bicycles]]
|used with=[[Hex Keys|hex keys]], [[wrenches]]
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=read this page
|similar=[[vises]]
}}
We have several bike repair stands in our [[Bike Lounge]].

== VAR Dual Repair Stand ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name= VAR Dual Repair Stand
|german= VAR Doppel-Montageständer
|image=VAR Dual Montageständer.jpg
|synonyms=DE: VAR Doppel-Montageständer
|status=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|manual=
|extrabox=yes
}}

<h2>Bicycle Repair Stand – VAR Professional Double Workstation</h2>

<h3>Overview</h3>
<p>The <strong>VAR Professional Double Repair Stand</strong> is an extremely robust, heavy-duty workstation designed for continuous, high-volume use in bicycle workshops, service centers, and racing teams. Featuring two opposing clamps, this tool allows two mechanics to work simultaneously and completely independently on a minimal footprint. Alternatively, a single mechanic can highly efficiently manage two bike projects side by side.</p>

<h3>Technical Specifications & Features</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Manufacturer:</strong> VAR Tools (France).</li>
<li><strong>Design:</strong> Heavy-duty double-sided repair stand with two independent clamping stations.</li>
<li><strong>Weight & Base:</strong> Massive, extra-heavy steel base plate ensuring absolute stability and zero vibration without the need for floor bolting.</li>
<li><strong>Material:</strong> High-grade, powder-coated steel main column with durable chrome-plated vertical tubes for height adjustment.</li>
<li><strong>Height Adjustment:</strong> Both workstations can be adjusted in height fully independently from each other to guarantee ergonomic working positions.</li>
</ul>

<h3>Clamp Technology & Functionality</h3>
<p>The core of the double repair stand is its two professional oversize clamping jaws, engineered for maximum flexibility and frame protection:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>360-Degree Rotation:</strong> Clamped bicycles can be rotated continuously around their axis and securely locked at any desired angle for optimal component access.</li>
<li><strong>Universal Fit:</strong> The jaws quickly adapt to all common frame diameters and tube shapes, easily accommodating modern aero frames, oversized tubes, and heavy e-bikes.</li>
<li><strong>Frame Protection:</strong> Premium rubber inserts on the clamping jaws prevent scratches, dents, or damage to sensitive carbon, titanium, or aluminum frames.</li>
<li><strong>Cable Clearance:</strong> The jaw inserts feature built-in recesses for external cable routing, preventing brake and derailleur cables from being pinched during clamping.</li>
</ul>

<h3>Advantages in Modern Workshop Use</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Space Efficiency:</strong> Cuts the required floor space in half compared to setting up two separate single repair stands.</li>
<li><strong>High Output:</strong> Perfect for professional shops with multiple mechanics or high daily bike turnarounds.</li>
<li><strong>Heavy-Duty Capacity:</strong> The rock-solid construction offers the exceptional stability needed to safely lift and service heavy modern e-bikes and cargo bikes.</li>
</ul>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

== WorkZone Bike Repair Stand ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name= WorkZone Bike Repair Stand
|german= WorkZone Fahrradmontageständer
|image=bike repair stand.JPG
|status=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|manual=
|extrabox=yes
}}

Besides holding your bike up and keeping its parts from moving too much, this simple stand can also assist you with holding tools and parts as there is a magnetic tray/toolholder on it.

== Specs ==
* max. load: 30 kg
* height: adjustable from 110 to 190 cm
* bike frame diameter: 25 to 40 mm

[[File:horizontal bike repair.JPG|thumb|left|If you need to have your bike horizontal for some reason, try using the stand in combination with a benchtop or vise.]]

[[Category:Cycling]]
[[Category:Repair]]

Chain Rivet Tools / Chain Breakers

2026-08-23T19:26:46Z

NitramLegov: Add to AI-Slop Category

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name= Bicycle Chain Rivet Tools
|german= Fahrrad-Kettennieter
|image= Bicycle_Chain_Rivet_Tools.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Fahrrad-Kettennieter
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

<h2>Overview: Bicycle Chain Rivet Tools (Chain Breakers)</h2>
<p>Below is a technical breakdown of the five different bicycle chain rivet tools shown in the image, organized by their layout position as a reference guide for the workshop wiki.</p>

<h3>Top Row (From Left to Right)</h3>

<div class="tool-wiki-entry">
<h3>1. Vintage Cast-Metal Chain Rivet Tool</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Image Position:</strong> Top Left (Silver cast body with a distinct finger-ring loop at the bottom and a fixed metal T-handle).</li>
<li><strong>Function:</strong> A classic, heavy-duty workshop chain breaker designed to press out chain links and pins to shorten, open, or repair bicycle chains.</li>
<li><strong>Technical Details:</strong> Features a robust, solid cast-alloy body with an integrated lower ring for a secure grip during high-torque operation. The heavy-duty threaded drive pin is operated via a classic fixed-wing handle.</li>
</ul>
</div>

<hr />

<div class="tool-wiki-entry">
<h3>2. Heavy-Duty Industrial Chain Breaker & Link Press</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Image Position:</strong> Top Right (Dark gray, blocky rectangular body with a large ribbed cooling-fin structure and a plastic T-handle).</li>
<li><strong>Function:</strong> A stationary workshop chain tool optimized for high-leverage operations. It is often used for heavy-duty single-speed, BMX, or transport-bike chains.</li>
<li><strong>Technical Details:</strong> The distinctive block-shaped, rectangular body provides immense stability when clamped in a bench vise. The deeply ribbed outer surface offers maximum hand grip, and the oversized handle ensures smooth pin extraction.</li>
</ul>
</div>

<hr />

<h3>Bottom Row (From Left to Right)</h3>

<div class="tool-wiki-entry">
<h3>3. Ergonomic Three-Finger Grip Chain Breaker</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Image Position:</strong> Bottom Left (Silver body with a distinct wavy three-finger handle and a sliding Tommy-bar lever).</li>
<li><strong>Function:</strong> A professional-grade workshop chain tool designed for precise adjustments and link removals on various multi-speed chains.</li>
<li><strong>Technical Details:</strong> The handle features contoured finger wavy molds to prevent hand slippage during tough extractions. It utilizes a sliding Tommy-bar lever to drive the threaded pin precisely into the center of the chain rivet.</li>
</ul>
</div>

<hr />

<div class="tool-wiki-entry">
<h3>4. Compact Ultra-Portable Chain Rivet Tool</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Image Position:</strong> Bottom Center (Small, minimalist gray steel body with a removable or sliding lever bar).</li>
<li><strong>Function:</strong> A minimalist, lightweight chain breaker designed primarily for mobile toolkits, emergency trailside repairs, or saddle bags.</li>
<li><strong>Technical Details:</strong> Stripped down to the bare essentials to save weight and space. Despite its compact footprint, it features standard alignment cradles to hold the chain securely while the slim drive rod pushes the pin.</li>
</ul>
</div>

<hr />

<div class="tool-wiki-entry">
<h3>5. Modern Ergonomic Pistol-Grip Chain Tool</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Image Position:</strong> Bottom Right (Dark gray composite/plastic contoured grip handle with a large T-handle).</li>
<li><strong>Function:</strong> A modern workshop chain breaker designed for daily service work and high-volume repairs on multi-speed bicycle chains.</li>
<li><strong>Technical Details:</strong> Features an ergonomic, molded plastic handle that mimics a comfortable pistol grip to reduce hand fatigue during repetitive workshop tasks. The large, smooth-turning T-handle allows for micro-adjustments and precise feel when pushing out pins.</li>
</ul>
</div>
[[Category:AI-Slop]]

Category:AI-Slop

2026-08-23T19:26:17Z

NitramLegov: Creation

This is a category for pages which have likely been created purely by some LLM and copy-pasted into the wiki without review or editing.
[[Category:Maintenance Categories]]

Template:ProjectInfoBox

2026-07-29T12:48:26Z

NitramLegov: Redirects from Main to Material Namespace are manually setup and thus not reliable

{| class="wikitable" style="float:right; margin-left: 10px; border-style: solid; border-width: 5px; border-color: #00773D"
!colspan="2"|<small style="float:right">[[Template:ProjectInfoBox|ProjectInfoBox]]</small><br>
<big>'''{{{project title|Unnamed Project}}}'''</big>
|-
!colspan="2"| [[{{#if: {{{extrabox|}}} |File: | Has image::File:}}{{#if: {{{image|}}} |{{{image}}} |project-default.png}}|frameless|300px]]
|-
| Status:
| {{{status|planned}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{date|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Release Date:
{{!}} [[ProjectDate::{{{date|(planned) finishing date}}}]]
|}}
|-
| Initiator:
| {{{initiator|who maintains it?}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{team|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Team:
{{!}} {{{team}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{materials|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Materials Used:
{{!}} {{{materials}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{tools|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Tools Used:
{{!}} {{{tools}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{software|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Software Used:
{{!}} {{{software}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{cost|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Approx. Cost:
{{!}} {{{cost}}}
|}}
|}
[[Has caption::{{FULLPAGENAME}}|]]
<noinclude>
Inform others about your [[Projects|project]] in a compact overview!

== Documentation ==
To use this template, simply copy this code into your page and enter the relevant parameters:
<pre>
{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=
|image=
|status=
|date=
|initiator=
|team=
|materials=
|tools=
|software=
|cost=
}}
</pre>
Default values for some parameters exist, but will only be used if the entire line is omitted. For example, <code>|image=</code> leads to no image being displayed while not entering the image parameter at all will lead to the default image (light bulb) being displayed. Please make use of the "Show preview" button and it should be clear.

If you had/have helpers with your project, you can use the <code>team</code> value to give them credit. Try using [[Template:HelpNeeded]] here to find collaborators! If you delete it or leave it empty, that field is not displayed at all.

The <code>software</code>, <code>materials</code> and <code>tools</code> value behaves this way as well since some projects are realized with tools and materials but others are done mostly digitally.

== [[Semantic MediaWiki]] ==
The content you enter for "date" can be queried under [[Property:ProjectDate]].

== Bugs/Future Development ==
* selection instead of free text: status= planned/in progress/finished?

== Template Parameters ==
<templatedata>
{
"description": "Provide information about a project you have built.",
"params": {
"project title": {
"label": "The name of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": true,
"description": "The name of your project",
"default": "Unnamed Project"
},
"image": {
"label": "An image for your project (your-uploaded-filename.jpg)",
"type": "wiki-file-name",
"required": false,
"description": "The file name of the image which represents your project the best. This might be printed on our [[Project Wall]]",
"suggested": true,
"example": "your-uploaded-filename.jpg"
},
"status": {
"label": "Status of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The current release status of your project",
"default": "planned",
"suggested": true
},
"date": {
"label": "The release date of your project",
"type": "date",
"required": false,
"description": "The date on which your project has been finished. Will be assigned to Property:ProjectDate and thus be searchable within [[Semantic MediaWiki]]."
},
"initiator": {
"label": "Who initiated your project?",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The user page or name of the person who initiated the project. Please provide them as their wiki name. You can leave out the \"User:\" part.",
"default": "who maintains it?",
"suggested": true,
"example": "[[Lukas]]"
},
"team": {
"label": "The team helping with your project.",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "Please provide them as their wiki usernames. You can leave out the \"User:\" part.",
"example": "[[Keno]]"
},
"materials": {
"label": "Materials you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of materials you have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links in double brackets (\"[[Page Title]]\").",
"example": "[[Mateiral:MDF]]"
},
"tools": {
"label": "Tools you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of tools you have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links in double brackets (\"[[Page Title]]\")",
"example": "[[Table Saw]]"
},
"software": {
"label": "Software you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of softwareyou have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links in double brackets (\"[[Page Title]]\")",
"example": "[[Autodesk Fusion]]"
},
"cost": {
"label": "Costs of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "An estimate of the cost to be expected if someone wants to recreate your project."
}
}
}
</templatedata>
</noinclude>

Tutor Training

2026-07-23T14:28:01Z

NitramLegov: Remove Baumphil from list

We are always happy about new [[tutors]] - please let us know if you are interested in becoming "certified" for your favorite tools!

This page attempts to keep track of volunteers waiting for their initial session with a [[manager]].

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! scope="col"| Tutor
! scope="col"| interested in
|-
| [[Anitamareike]]
| Woodturning, Bench Grinder, Chop Saw, Drill, Handheld Sander
|-
| [[Utis]]
| Drill, Metal Lathe, 3D Printer
|-
| [[Lmnl99]]
| Reciprocating Saw, Handheld Circular Saw, Laser Cutter, Heat
|-
| [[Jakob]]
| Table Saw, Handheld Router, Handheld Circular Saw
|-
|[[No.shoes]]
| Chop Saw, Drills, Heat, Soldering Iron
|-
|[[Jeddi]]
|3D Printer, Drill, Reciprocating Saw, Handheld Circular Saw, Table Saw
|-
|[[Mobell]]
|Handheld Sander, Chop Saw, Handheld Circular Saw ...
|-
|[[MobiTobi]]
|Laser Cutter
|-
|[[Jaggi2]]
|different Circular Saws, Handheld Sander, ...
|-
|[[User:Deaf|Toan]]
|all Sanders, Handheld Router, Sliding Table Saw, woodworking,
|-
|[[LeoF]]
|Jointer-Planer, Joinery Machine, Chop Saw, Table Saw, Handheld Circular Saw, '''woodworking'''
|-
|[[Schmidt3D]]
|CNC Mill, Angle Grinder
|-
|[[Der huddel]]
|Jointer-Planer, Router Table, Sliding Table Saw
|-
|[[Lena]]
|Sewing Machine
|}

''This overview - if considered useful - can of course be improved A LOT, e.g. by using [[SMW]] properties on all intro pages. Just an info dump at the moment!''

Wiltec 65415

2026-07-23T07:05:56Z

NitramLegov: Redirected page to WilTec 65415

#REDIRECT [[WilTec 65415]]

Help:Wiki Basics

2026-07-06T10:49:55Z

NitramLegov: /* Creating a New Page */ link create page

[https://www.mediawiki.org MediaWiki], the framework underlying this wiki, is very powerful but can be just as confusing. How often have you found yourself wondering, "how can I make this look better?", "is it okay to change this part I don't like?" (''it probably is!'') or "where do I find that page I was on just a week ago?"

This help page is intended to help with understanding basic principles of the wiki structure in general and our specific implementation for easier reading and more efficient writing. If you'd like presentation format better, here you go - we have seminar slides available under "[[MediaWiki Seminar]]"!

For other wiki related questions, have a look at our help pages in the [[:Category:Wiki|"wiki" category]], the [https://m.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents MediaWiki support section], or talk to the [[administrators]].

== Creating a New Page ==
If you navigate to a page that does not yet exist, you will be given an option to create it.

There are several ways of doing that:
* use [[Create Page]]
* search for the desired page title (search bar at the top right or [[Special:Search]])
* click on a [[red link]]
* enter the URL related to that page in your address bar: <code>https://wiki.comakingspace.de/My_New_Page</code>

For more advice on editing pages, please see "[[Creating Wiki Content]]" :-)

== Staying up to Date ==
=== Watchlist ===
The best way to make sure you are informed about edits and discussions on interesting pages is to add them to your [[Special:Watchlist|watchlist]]. Pages can be added by clicking <code>Actions/Watch</code> at the top of every regular page when you are logged in. If you see <code>Actions/Unwatch</code> you are already watching the page and may remove it from your watchlist, and pages you edit are watched by default.

You can check your watchlist via the user menu when you are logged in and choose to get eMail notifications about certain changes as well.

=== Recent Changes ===
Newly created pages and articles that have not gotten your attention so far also change all the time so it can be worthwhile to check out [[Special:RecentChanges]] once in a while. Who knows which cool reads may be added this week?!

== Categories & Namespaces ==
We presently have over '''{{NUMBEROFARTICLES}}''' pages and they're bound to become even more which can be hard to oversee. Of course searching for a page title can work, but what if you don't know what exactly to search for?

For that we have two answers: categories and namespaces.

=== Categories ===
You can think of categories like '''tags''', just write <code><nowiki>[[Category:Something]]</nowiki></code> anywhere on a page and it will be linked from that category page. Check out [[Special:Categories|which ones we have already]] and don't be afraid to create a new one if it seems to make sense! :-)

=== Namespaces ===
You'll notice that some of the page titles start with a certain word followed by a colon, e.g. lots of "Material:" or "Project:" pages. The term before the colon defines the namespace of that page (yes, "Category:" is a special kind of namespace as well). Some namespaces are predefined, such as "Special:" pages which are not editable by us, but we have added a bunch of our own to make using this wiki easier.

It's all for the sake of structure: even with categories, you may find yourself looking at long page lists containing a buch of unfamiliar titles. With namespaces, stuff like materials or help pages automatically stick out! By the way - clicking "'''What links here'''" in your toolbox on the left also gives you a nice list of potentially interesting pages!

A downside to this decision is that some pages may be harder to link to or even find: except materials, projects, categories and file formats, suggestions will '''only show up in the search field after the namespace and the colon are entered'''. That can be annoying, but [[Help:Wiki Basics#Redirects|redirects]] should help. On the other hand, if you are for example looking for help but not sure which help pages exist, entering "Help:" into the search field yields a great set of '''filtered suggestions'''!

==== "Talk:" Namespace (Discussion Pages) ====
If you're not quite sure about a fact or whether an edit would make sense, don't hesitate to use the '''discussion feature at the top of any page'''! MediaWiki suggests starting new topics with headlines (framed by <code>==</code> on each side) and indenting replies by starting the line with <code>::</code>. You can automatically sign your message by typing <code><nowiki>"--~~~~"</nowiki></code> or clicking the corresponding button above the editor.

== Redirects ==
Redirects are '''pages that lead to a different page''', e.g. if there are common synonyms for a tool or a plain title should lead to a page with that title within a namespace.

To create a redirect, simply create a new page with your alternate title and enter nothing but <code><nowiki>#REDIRECT[[ExistingTitle]]</nowiki></code> ("ExistingTitle" being the name of the page you want to link to, of course).

[[Category:Wiki]]

Network

2026-06-20T16:20:20Z

NitramLegov: /* Network Infrastructure */ IP Updates

From a physical perspective, the network at the CoMakingSpace is built up as follows:
<mermaid> graph LR
subgraph lan [LAN]
0[CommonRoom Fritz!Box] --> A[CommonRoom UCG Ultra]
A --> C[Seminar Corner Switch]
A --> E[Office Router]
C --> F[Canon MF752Cdw]
C --> G[WebOS TV Left]
C --> H[WebOS TV Right]
click A "http://10.0.0.1" _blank
click K "http://homeassistant.local:8123" _blank
end

subgraph workshop[Wood Workshop-LAN]
A --> D[Wood Workshop Switch]
D --> S[Logo-Felder_RL_160]
D --> I[Wood Workshop Access Point]
end

subgraph eroom [E-Room-LAN]
A --> B[E-Room Switch]
B --> WCNC1(Workbee CNC)
click WCNC1 "https://workbeecnc.fritz.box" _blank
B --> WCNC2(Workbee CNC Tablet)
B --> J(Epilog Legend 36Ext)
B --> K[HomeAssistant]

end
subgraph wlan [WLAN]
A -.-> L(Laser PC)
A -.-> M(Slicing PC)
A -.-> N(P7)
A -.-> O(P8)
A -.-> P(ESPHome_Garbage_Sign)
A -.-> Q(Trash Tracker)
A -.-> R(prusa-link)
end
style wlan fill:#6dc8fc
</mermaid>

The main UCG Ultra provides IPs within the 10.0.0.0/8

The DHCP Server provides dynamic IP adresses for clients in the range 10.100.0.0 - 10.100.255.255

All other IP Adresses are static adresses and listed below

===Network Infrastructure===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| UCG Ultra
|10.0.0.1
|-
|Office Fritz!Box
|10.0.0.2
|-
|CoMS Access Controller
|10.0.0.3
|-
|Kitchen Switch
|10.0.0.4
|-
|Wood Workshop Switch
|10.0.0.5
|-
|Seminar Corner Switch
|10.0.0.6
|-
|Office Switch
|10.0.0.7
|-
|CNC Switch
|10.0.0.8
|-
|E-Room Switch
|10.0.0.9
|-
|Kitchen AP
|10.0.1.1
|-
|Wood Workshop AP
|10.0.1.2
|}

=== Access Infrastructure ===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| CoMS Access Controller
|10.0.0.3
|-
|Main Entrance - Common Room Door Hub
|10.0.2.1
|-
|Main Entrance - Common Room Reader
|10.0.2.2
|-
|Common Room - Workshop
|10.0.2.3
|-
|Common Room - E-Room
|10.0.2.4
|-
|Common Room - Storage
|10.0.2.5
|-
|Common Room - Office
|10.0.2.6
|-
|Common Room - Manager Storage
|10.0.2.7
|}

===IoT-related devices===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Homeassistant
|10.1.0.1
|-
|OfficePi
|10.1.0.2
|-
|ScannerPi
|10.1.0.3
|-
|Shelly - RouterTable (COMS00154)
|10.1.0.6
|-
|<s>Shelly - Felder AF 14 (COMS00073)</s>
|<s>10.1.0.7</s>
|-
|<s>Shelly - Festool CTM26 E AC (COMS00021) (Chip)</s>
|<s>10.1.0.8</s>
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00159)
|10.1.0.9
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00158)
|10.1.0.10
|-
|Logo-LaserAbluft
|10.1.0.11
|-
|ESPHome_Garbage_Sign
|10.1.0.12
|-
|Trash Tracker
|10.1.0.13
|-
|Logo-Felder_RL_160
|10.1.0.14
|-
|LGwebOSTV (Left)
|10.1.0.15
|-
|LGwebOSTV (Right)
|10.1.0.16
|-
|Tasmota-MembersWall
|10.1.0.17
|-
|ESPHome-Plug-InfraredHeater
|10.1.0.18
|-
|MembersWall ESP
|10.1.0.19
|}

=== Machines===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Laser PC
|10.2.0.1
|-
|Slicing PC
|10.2.0.2
|-
|[[Workbee]] CNC Router
|10.2.0.3
|-
|Workbee CNC Tablet
|10.2.0.4
|-
|BambuLab ([[P7]])
|10.2.0.5
|-
|BambuLab ([[P8]])
|10.2.0.6
|-
|prusa-link
|10.2.0.8
|-
|epilog legend 36ext
|10.2.0.9
|-
|[[Laser Printers|Canon MF752Cdw]]
|10.2.0.10
|-
|Duet "Blackbox" CNC
|10.2.0.11
|}

===Configuration Changes ===

If you need to change settings for our Network, please contact {{IT-manager}}.

[[Category:Facilities]]

Greggersen Ergomax

2026-06-20T10:04:43Z

NitramLegov: /* Greggersen Ergomax */ Remove links to deleted image and manual, assign issue number

==Greggersen Ergomax==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Greggersen Ergomax
|german=Hartlötgerät
|image=
|synonyms=Gaz brazing torch, Brazing burner, Lötbrenner
|manual=
|material=Copper, Brass, Bronze, Iron, Steel
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=452
|Naming=
|NamingComment=
|Picture=
|PictureComment=
|Manual=
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=
|Security=
|SecurityComment=
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

Precious Plastic - Shredder

2026-06-17T20:41:06Z

NitramLegov: Formatting

== Precious Plastic Shredder ==

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Precious Plastic Shredder Basic V2.0
|image=Plastic Shredder.jpg
|german=Kunststoffschredder
|synonyms=DE: Kunststoffschredder, Plastikschredder,<br>Kunststoffschneidmühle, Plastikschneidmühle
|type=Plastic Shredder
|material=''[[plastics]]''
|location= [[Location::Precious Plastic Area]]
|status=Operational
|firmware=
|assetid=172|software=
|manual=[https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder Precious Plastic Academy] (some build specifics will differ!)
|used with=
|similar=
}}
This shredder is used to convert plastic waste into flakes that can be used in [[Precious Plastic]] projects.

We have a small selection of perforated metal plate ''(Lochblech)'' that could be adapted (cut and perhaps re-drilled) to be the "sieves" determining the particle size that comes out of the shredder.

===Original Build===
[https://preciousplastic.com/en/videos/build/shredder.html ''build instructions'']

[[User:Armin|Armin]] got the laser cut parts and two [https://www.conrad.at/de/flanschlager-htb-grauguss-ucfl-204-bohrungs-o-20-mm-lochabstand-90-mm-197022.html flange bearings] in 2018.

[[Lukas]] contributed a piece of 27 mm ''(Schlüsselweite)'' [https://www.ebay.de/itm/Sechskant-Automatenstahl-SW-27-mm-Lange-wahlbar-11SMnPB30/111079075160 hexagonal steel].

Components:
*3 kW, approx. 1500 rpm ''Drehstrom-Asynchron-Motor''
*gearbox: 20:1
*electronic components:
**emergency stop: TBD (similar to the one at the [[CNC Router|CNC router]])
**1xMotorschutzschalter 6,3-10A Gekauftes Modell:
** 2xLeistungsschutzschalter mit Hilfskontakten Gekauftes Modell: DIL EM 01 G mit 22 DIL E
**2xLeuchttaster für rechts- linkslauf
**Stopp Taster
**3Phasen Hauptschalter
Missing:
*electronic components:
**z.b.[https://www.ebay.de/itm/Industriegeh%C3%A4use-Leergeh%C3%A4use-Verteilerkasten-Schaltschrank-Verteilergeh%C3%A4use/191727919905?var=490750227080 Gehäuse mit Hutschiene]
**z.b. [https://www.ebay.de/itm/HDR-Serie-5V-12V-15V-24V-48V-12W-92-2Watt-MeanWell-LED-Hutschienen-Netzteil/232899066939?var=532426241700 Netzteil 230v zu 24V Output:>500mA]
**hopper cover safety switch (should stop motor when open)

Other materials include [[Threaded Rods|threaded rods]] and other [[Metal Parts|metal parts]] that we should already have at the Space.

==== Electronics ====
[[File:Schredder Wendeschützschaltung.png]]

LaserCut 5.3

2026-06-17T20:40:22Z

NitramLegov: Link in link is not a good idea

{{SoftwareInfoBox
|software name=LaserCut 5.3 ''or Lasercut 5.3''
|image=LaserCut53_entry.jpg
|type=[[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] driver/[[CAM]]
|platform='''Windows''' (XP, 7, 8, 10<sup> [https://hpclaser.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LS6090-PRO-Data-Sheet-2019a.pdf]</sup>)
|license=proprietary
|source=
|installed=laser PC
|input=[[PLT]], [[AI]], '''[[DXF]]''', [[DST]], [[BMP]], [[NC]], [[JPG]], [[GIF]], [[PNG]], [[TIF]], [[TGA]], [[PCX]]
|output=[[MOL]]
|users=[[Martin]]
}}
Lasercut 5.3 (aka "Laser system 5.3" in some installations) is required to prepare a design file for our [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]. Its drawing functions are apparently quite terrible, so pretty much all users in forums etc. recommend to only use it for the very last steps!

If you are familiar with "our" previous laser cutter (the loaned Epilog Zing), this software will pretty much take over what you used to do with [[Visicut]].

LaserCut 5.3 is installed on a dedicated PC, which is located next to the [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] itself.

== Installation ==
We got a copy of LaserCut 5.3 from HPC Laser. You can get it from the orange USB drive located next to the laser cutter. However, the version we got does only work with the "soft dog" USB dongle, which ''will be'' attached permanently to the dedicated PC.

In order to prepare files on your own computer, you can install the software from another source. Most sources include an executable called "Lasercut53_Demo.exe" which can be used without the dongle but cannot operate the machine itself. The demo version also does not want you to save or open project files, but there are workarounds:
* '''saving''' is reportedly offered when closing the program
* '''opening''' of a finished project is best done with our full version at the Space, but also possible after some "terrible" exporting/re-importing<sup> [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/lasercut53personal]</sup>

In case you plan to do these, please make sure that you replace your syscfg.ini with the one shipped with our laser (can be found on the mentioned USB drive).

Installation notes:
* The software only natively works on Windows. Try [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/lasercut53personal Wine or other methods] at your own risk, but be aware it's 32-bit software
* The software must be installed in C:\LaserCut53 in order to work properly. There is a parameter in syscfg.ini which indicates the installation path. Changing it might get it to work from other locations as well but is untested. Try at your own risk.

==Setup==
===Setting the Worktable Size===
The first thing to do after installation is to check for the correct worktable size. Our laser has a size of 90x60 cm. Please ensure your worktable is set up correctly.

If it is not, you can change it by navigating to <code>File --> Machine Options</code> (or pressing Ctrl+J).<br/>
In the new window, please navigate to "Worktable" and apply the following settings:
* X Axis [Range] 900.0
* Y Axis [Range] 600.0

When clicking "Save", it will most likely ask you for a password. Just hit "OK".

==Basic Usage==

===Zoom to All Objects===
[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToAllObjects.jpg|500px]]

Sometimes you need to ensure that all your objects are visible on the screen. To do so, please use <code>Zoom to all objects</code>

[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToAllObjects Result.jpg|500px]]

Note: You can use this tool in order to ensure all your objects are on the worktable. Objects outside the worktable will result in a soft stop of the laser.

===Zoom to Table===
[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToTable.jpg|500px]]

This tool is particulary helpful in case you zoomed in or out of your worktable and want to see the entire worktable centralized on your screen:

[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToTable Result.jpg|500px]]

==Preparing a Job==
===Copy your file to the Laser PC===
You can either use a USB stick to copy your files to the Laser PC. The other option is to upload the files online. The online upload works not only in the CoSpace but as well from any device on the Internet. To upload your file use [[File_Drop]].

The file are later located in the folder "Laser Fileshare" which can be found in the Windows "Quick Access" folder.
===Import Your File===
The first thing you need to do is to import your drawing. You can do so by navigating to <code>File --> Import</code> or by pressing Crtl+I. The following [[File Formats|file formats]] are supported:
* [[Format:PLT|PLT]]
* [[Format:DXF|DXF]]
** [[Fusion 360]]: '''export''' the file. Do not just "save as".
** [[Inkscape]]: reportedly, the checkboxes "Use ROBO-Master type of spline output" and "Use LWPOLYLINE type of line output" need to be '''off''' when saving as DXF for LaserCut 5.3<sup> [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/design-software]</sup> Save as R14 dxf not as R12.
* [[Format:AI|AI]] (Adobe Illustrator)
* [[JPG]]
* [[GIF]]
* PNG
* BMP
* TIF
* DST
* NC
* TGA
* PCX

===Preparing the Cut Paths===
Once your file is imported, you will see the preview on the screen. The following tools might be handy when preparing your cut paths:

====Unite Lines====
[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines Before.jpg|500px|thumb|left|before uniting the lines]]
[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines After.jpg|500px|thumb|left|after uniting the lines]]

In case you just start your job without any further tuning, you might recognize that the laser follows an odd order of steps to cut your paths.

In order to streamline this, please select the paths of your model and navigate to <code>Tools --> Unite Lines</code>.

[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines Options.jpg|500px]]

Note: The default value of 0.100 as the unite tolerance is usually a pretty good value to recognize lines belonging together.
<br clear="all">
====Output Order====
[[File:Lasercut_5.3_order.png|thumb|right|200px|"layers" can be prioritized by moving them up in this list]]
You often want to engrave before cutting as the cut parts can fall out of focus when they are separated from the rest of the material.

::'''easy way:''' select a "layer" in the list on the right and move it around with the <code>Up</code> or <code>Down</code> buttons (top is done first, bottom last)

You can also control the order of the cuts by navigating to <code>Tools --> Output Order</code>: In the new window, you will get a list of output layers, which you can put into the desired order by selecting them on the left and moving them to the right side of the window.<br>
If you are not sure which number corresponds to which cutting path, please note that you can select lines while having the output order window open.

==== Setting the Entry Point and Laser Origin====
<pre style="color: red"> ADD IMAGE: Menu Bar with highlighted button</pre>
You must verify the laser origin, do so in <code>Laser --> Set laser origin</code>. If, for example, you set it to "top right corner" then the software assumes that the physical laser is at the top right corner of your path. If the laser is in the lower left corner physically then you run into a soft stop since the laser would have to leave its work area.

Optionally, on each path you can select the entry point the laser will use by using the "Define cut route" tool. You can find this in the menu as <code>Laser --> Define cut route</code> or in the menu bar:

[[File:LaserCut53 DefineCutRoute.jpg|500px]]

Hint: If you press space when using this tool, a new window will open allowing you to edit some expert settings:

[[File:LaserCut53 DefineCutRoute Lead InOut Options.jpg|500px]]

==== Copy ====

Especially when mass processing something, you might want to copy your drawing multiple times. LaserCut offers a few different options to do so:
# Mark the paths, use CRTL-C and CTRL-V, then move the new paths
# Mark the paths, navigate to <code>Draw --> Copies</code> <br/>This will create actual copies of your object in an array which you can define. After the copies have been created, they are independent of each other and can be modified and moved seperately.
# Mark the paths, navigate to <code>Laser --> Array output options</code> <br/>This will allow you to laser your paths multiple times. Please note that the copies are not independent of each other and can only be moved together. Also, the same settings apply for all of them.

===Selecting the Laser Mode===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Mode !! Explanation
|-
| Cut || Cuts your material by following the defined vectors. You can also use this for vector engraving ("marking") by lowering the power.
|-
| Engrave || Engraves the shapes of your drawing into your material (similar to a printer).
With bitmap pictures, this will engrave dark parts of your picture into your workpiece ([[LaserCut_5.3#Simulating_Your_Job|simulate the job]] to avoid bad surprises!). Also see "[[Laser Engraving Photos]]" for advice on pre-processing these.

Caution: with vector drawings, this will engrave the entire area of your drawing into your workpiece.
|-
| Grade Engrave||Grade engraving will tell the laser to bevel the corners of your engraving. This should increase readability of letters for example.
|-
|Hole ||This setting is similar to cutting. It will follow the defined lines, but will only make little dots (holes) into your material.
|-
|Pen Cut||'''This setting seems to crash LaserCut 5.3 and is not documented in the manual.'''
|}

===Setting Power and Speed===
You can set the power and speed for each layer separately in the Control Panel:

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions.jpg|500px]]

Here you can select the desired mode by using the correspondent drop down menu.

Double-clicking on a layer will open the speed settings for the specific layer.
Please note that the options for cutting and engraving differ from each other:

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions CutOptions.jpg|500px|Options for cutting]]

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions EngraveOptions.jpg|500px|Options for engraving]]

Please pay special attention to the "Corner Power". Usually you want to set this slightly lower than your regular power (too high and you might get "dogbone" curves instead of nice sharp corners).

=== Simulating Your Job===
To see how the laser will move, press the [[File:Simulate_Button.png]] on the far right of the toolbar or navigate to <code>Laser --> Simulate</code>:<br>[[File:Simulate_Button_2.png]]

This is strongly recommended to avoid surprises that ruin your material!

===Estimating Work Time===
You may press the [[File:Estimate_Work_Time_Button.png]] button on the far right of the toolbar to estimate runtime (i.e. approximate cost) before starting the job.

However, please be aware that this estimate is usually a bit too low (the job will take longer in reality) and pay for the actual time needed in the end!

==Controlling the Laser==
In the following, "control panel" refers to this section on the right side of the screen:<br>
[[File:LaserCut Control Panel.jpg|x500px]]

===Homing===
In order to home the laser, please press <code>Datum</code>. <ref>Fun Fact: "Datum" is not a strange translation, but actually the correct term (see [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/datum#Noun Wiktionary])</ref>

Homing the laser will cause it to move into the upper right corner. Please always home the laser before you use it (it should happen automatically during start-up).

NOTE: You can also home the laser by pressing <code>Datum</code> on the control panel of the machine itself.

===Moving the Laser===
You will need to move the laser to its correct starting position, which you decided on when you prepared your job.

In order to do so, you can use the <code>X-</code>/<code>X+</code> and <code>Y-</code>/<code>Y+</code> buttons in LaserCut's control panel or the corresponding arrow keys on the machine.

Please note that you cannot control the Z height from within LaserCut. You will need to set the proper height on the machine itself!

===Uploading Your Job===
Once you are done with all preperation steps, you need to put your job on the machine. In order to do so, please press the <code>DownLoad</code> button in the control panel. This will open a window called "Stand-alone file manager":

[[File:Stand-alone_file_manager.png]]

In here, you can select your desired job and press <code>Download file</code>. You can usually just hit <code>Download current</code> to put the latest job onto the machine.

If you want to store this exact setup and machine data for further copies, you can export the data by pressing <code>Export file</code>. This will allow you to save it as a [[Format:MOL|.mol]] file.

===Starting and Stopping the Job ===
You can start the job in LaserCut or on the machine.

Please note that it is recommended to '''always control the job from the laser itself!'''

If you do have a valid reason to start it from LaserCut, please use the <code>Start</code> button on the control panel. You can also pause and stop the job by using the corresponding buttons.

Though you surely have simulated your job in the laser cut software, before you actually start your job you have two more levels of simulation. First you can press (with open lid) the test button on the laser panel, then the laser's red dot shows you the area where it will work. It is only the bounding box and this simulation is quite fast. This way you know that you really work on your material. Be aware that the red dot and the laser itself have a few mm offset, thus give it a bit room. If you press the button labeled "Laser" on the laser's control panel you can see where it shots a little hole and where that is compared to the red dot. The last level of simulation is to start your job with the laser's lid open. Doing this the actual laser is off, but the red dot moves exactly the path it would later run during actual operation.

== Further Reading ==
* ''[https://hpclaser.co.uk/lasercut5-3-software/ summary]'' by our [[laser]]'s retailer''
* [https://bristol.hackspace.org.uk/wiki/doku.php?id=equipment:a0_laser_cutter:prep Guide by the Bristol Hackspace]

[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

<references />

Woodturning Tools

2026-06-17T20:38:41Z

NitramLegov: close sup tag

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Woodturning Tools
|german=Drechseleisen|image=cheap woodturning tools.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Drechseleisen, Drechselmesser
|type=
|material=[[wood]]
|used with=[[Wood Lathe|wood lathe]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]<br>(wall above wood lathe)
|access=read this page; [[Woodturning Introduction|woodturning introduction]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=
}}
Once you've got a nice [[Woodturning Blanks|turning blank]] spinning on the [[Wood Lathe|wood lathe]], you'll want to shape it by holding something sharp to it. We're only getting started with [[woodturning]], but as we learn this page will grow with information about various forms of turning tools (a {{mpi}} will be nice for easy navigation).

In early 2018, [[Lukas]] got a cheap beginner's set consisting of
* ''some kind of'' 12 mm [[#Gouges|gouge]]
** not a roughing gouge: too narrow & shallow
** not a ''Formröhre'': mostly rectangular when seen from above, no "nose"
** looks a lot like an [https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-rider-out-cannel-firmer-gouge-wooden-handle-12mm-103830 out-cannel firmer gouge] (not a turning tool?!)
* 26 mm [[#Skew Chisels|skew chisel]] (''Drechselbeitel'')
* 13 mm round nose [[#Scrapers|scraper]] (''Schaber, rund'')
* 4 & 6 mm [[Parting Tools|parting tools]] (''Abstechstähle'')
<br>which we will gradually expand or replace with better ones as needed:
* [https://www.woodlathesinc.com/products/crown-1-1-4-oval-skew-chisel?variant=51278810438 Crown 1" oval skew chisel] (added 2019-5)
* [https://www.narextools.cz/en/roughing-gouge-hss-8194 Narex 3/4" roughing gouge] (added 2019-11)
* [https://www.kirschen-shop.de/de/1629004_Drechslerbeitel-Abstech-langes-Heft_p3640178.html Kirschen 4 mm parting tool (#1629004)] & [https://www.kirschen-shop.de/de/1649020_Drechslerbeitel-Ausdrehstahl-langes-Heft_p3640183.html Kirschen 20 mm round side cutting scraper (#1649020)] as a [[loan]] from Micha
* a ton of tools from [[Jrosy]] (added in 2022)

'''CAUTION: the simple skew chisel and scraper were misused and badly bent, currently they are "fixed" but may bend or even break easier next time! Stop turning if ''anything'' seems wrong with these or other tools.'''

__TOC__
<br clear=all>
== Gouges ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Woodturning Gouges
|image=woodturning gouge.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Drechselröhren, Drehröhren;<br>''Schruppröhren, Formröhren, Schalenröhren''
|type=[[woodturning]] tool
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=
|extrabox=yes
}}
Gouges are perhaps the most frequently used woodturning tools and are very useful to get your workpiece round in the first place.

We only have a very uncharacteristic gouge at the moment. There are several specialized types including ''roughing'', ''spindle'' and ''bowl'' gouges, all of which may be sharpened at different angles to produce an even bigger variety.

If you would like to see more gouges in our shared selection, please make suggestions and also let us know whether you would be willing to throw in a few €! In the meantime, you are welcome to borrow [[User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Drechseleisen|Lukas' private gouges]] for a beer or so ;-)

* ''basics: http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges1.html''
* ''how to sharpen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-nTHpfcwkQ (first half)''
* ''"detail" gouges: http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges7.html''

=== Roughing Gouges ===
[[File:captive rings - test04.JPG|thumb|right|300px|typical marks during roughing]]
Avoid contacting the workpiece with one of the corners! These gouges are usually forged from a flat piece of steel and therefore less strong than those that are milled from a solid round piece - they are sometimes reported to break near the handle.<sup> [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges2.html]</sup>

[http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges2.html This article] may help you with your first attempts of using a spindle roughing gouge. Roughing gouges take the same shaving across their entire cutting edge so it's a good idea to keep slowly twisting the tool to balance the wear over the entire edge (otherwise you'll quickly have a dull spot in the middle while the sides are still sharp).

Also have a look at [https://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/wood-turning/techniques/beginners-guides/the-spindle-roughing-gouge/ this beginner's guide] for some nice illustrations as well as detailed descriptions of the cuts you can make with this tool.

[[File:roughing_gouge.svg|left|300px]]

<br clear=left>

=== Spindle Gouges ===
Called ''"Formröhren"'' in German, these gouges are okay for rounding a spindle if you don't have a proper roughing gouge but are more suited for ''forming'' cuts in an already round workpiece.

[[File:spindle_gouge.svg|left|300px]]

<br clear=left>
=== Bowl Gouges ===
Bowl gouges are most aggressive at the sides, so you should avoid to contact the workpiece with the entire bevel. Instead, they are somewhat "rolled" into the desired cut position. This basic "tip cut" technique is nicely explained in [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges3.html this article].

'''advanced techniques'''
* with special "fingernail" or "swept-back" grinds, [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges4.html "wing cuts"] are also possible for advanced turners
* [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges5.html sidegrain turning] (needed to make bowls)
* [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/gouges6.html steps of bowl turning]

[[File:bowl_gouge.svg|left|300px]]
[[File:Fingernail_bowl_gouge.svg|300px]]

<br clear=all>

== Skew Chisels ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Skew Chisels
|image=skew chisel.JPG
|synonyms=woodturning chisels, "skews";<br>DE: Drechselbeitel, Drehmeißel,<br>schräge Flachstähle
|type=[[woodturning]] tool
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=
|extrabox=yes
}}
'''Not to be confused with "regular" [[Bevel Edge Chisels|bevel edge chisels]]!'''

Also called the "woodturner's plane" - can create nice surfaces, but prone to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOvF5f1phhY "catching" on the workpiece] if you're not experienced!

Besides the video linked above, you should have a look at this nice writeup on how to [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/skews1.html control the skew and prevent catches] before attempting to use it.

Once you get the hang of it, a skew chisel is actually a very versatile tool and can be used for [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/skews2.html a variety of different cuts].

[[File:skew chisel.svg|thumb|left|300px|s: skew angle, b: bevel angle]]

We have two one-inch wide (25-26 mm) skew chisels in the woodturning area: a cheap and rather short "regular" one and a [https://www.woodlathesinc.com/products/crown-1-1-4-oval-skew-chisel?variant=51278810438 ''Crown'' oval skew chisel] that is supposed to glide across the toolrest more easily and definitely has a better blade material.

<br clear=all>

== Scrapers ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Woodturning Scrapers
|image=woodturning scraper.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Schaber, Drechselschaber,<br>Flachstähle, Schlichtstähle,<br>Schrotstähle
|type=[[woodturning]] tool
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=[[Card Scrapers|card scrapers]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
Scrapers are not really used for cutting but have an edge with a burr similar to that on a [[Card Scrapers|card scraper]]. Instead of removing a lot of wood you can use this tool for delicate finishing touches. Read more about this tool [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/scrapers1.html here (Doc Green)].

Contrary to pretty much all other woodturning tools, you do not let the scraper "ride" on its bevel. To make sure the workpiece always runs "away" from its edge and you do not get a catch, use this tool '''below the workpiece axis for outside work''' and '''above for inside work'''.<sup> [http://www.holzwerken.net/Wissen/Tipps-Tricks/Drechseln/Mal-hoch-mal-niedrig-den-Schaber-ansetzen]</sup>

We have one round nose scraper to start with.

[[File:woodturning scraper.svg|left|300px]]
<br clear=left>
=== Side Cutting Scrapers ===
[[File:Ausdrehstahl rund.jpg|thumb|tip of the 20 mm "Kirschen" side cutting scraper]]
Micha [[loan]]ed the Space a side cutting scraper ''(Ausdrehstahl)'' (round, 20 mm) to work on the insides of bowls or similar pieces!

This tool looks different of course, but is used and sharpened in the same basic way as a "front cutting" scraper.

<br clear=all>

== Parting Tools ==
{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Parting Tools
|image=parting tools.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Abstechstähle, Abstecher,<br>Spitzstahl ("Diamant-Form")
|type=[[woodturning]] tool
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=
|extrabox=yes
}}
Parting tools can be used for simple grooves or to "part off" your finished piece from the waste. However, parting can be very dangerous if the cut is not widened properly and the high friction causes the tool to get jammed in its cut!<sup> [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/mishappartingtool.html]</sup>

In many cases, and when working between centers, it is advisable to turn the lathe off and do the final parting cut with a [[saw]] instead.

When your [[Woodturning Blanks|blank]] has knots or split edges, a parting tool may be more suitable than a [[Roughing Gouge|roughing gouge]] to get it round.<sup> [https://www.selbst.de/holz-drechseln-5223.html]</sup>

We have a "diamond" parting tool that is tapered behind the edge to avoid binding and burn marks<sup> [https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/turn2.html]</sup> and two with ''other geometry'' (Kirschen: seems to be a narrow "Bedan" shape).

''=> [http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/partingtools.html Doc Green: Parting Tools]''<br>
''=> [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwEnMS9Xkg4 HolzWerken: Beim Drechseln oft unterschätzt - der Abstecher (DE)]''

[[File:toy wheel turning 2.JPG|thumb|left|350 px|simple parting cut to make wheels for a [[Project:Tigerente|''Tigerente'']]]]
[[File:Kirschen Abstecher.jpg|thumb|"European style" parting tool made by Kirschen - NOT suitable for soft wood!]]

<br clear=all>

== Further Information ==
* thespruce.com
** [https://www.thespruce.com/the-profiles-used-in-turning-spindles-3536934 the four tools needed for spindle profiles]
** [https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-use-a-skew-chisel-3536930 how to use a skew chisel]
* [https://makezine.com/2015/08/13/quick-guide-7-basic-woodturning-tools/ Makezine: "7 Basic Woodturning Tools"]
* Video Tutorials
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kunZIzNNxUY Understanding a Starter Set of Lathe Chisels] - simple but safe techniques for beginners

[[Category:Woodturning]]

Japanese Leather Knife

2026-06-17T20:38:17Z

NitramLegov: close sup tag

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Japanese Leather Knife
|german=Japanisches Ledermesser|image=Japanese leather knife.JPG
|synonyms=Japanese skiving knife;<br>DE: japanisches Ledermesser
|type=
|status=
|material=[[leather]]
|used with=[[Cutting Mat|cutting mat]] or [[poundoboard]]
|location=
|access=
|tutors=
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=[[skivers]], other [[knives]]
}}
A knife. From Japan. For [[leather]]!

[[File:Japanese skiving knife demo.JPG|200px|left]]
You hold this kind of knife in your fist with the blade down and bevel facing inwards/towards the workpiece (i.e. to the right when using your left hand).<sup> [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVTi42qjcRU&t=5m]</sup>

<br clear=left>
Besides cutting, a Japanese leather knife can also be used for skiving ''(Ausschärfen)''.<sup> [https://lederhammer.de/epages/bf6d5910-97c9-4c98-9c14-cc359a5bb67f.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bf6d5910-97c9-4c98-9c14-cc359a5bb67f/Products/LM-CJ-39]</sup>

== Sheath ==
The blade is currently just protected by a piece of cardboard, but [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKJx-Bv4Sjo making a sheath] would be a great beginner's project!

[[Category:Leathercraft]]

Greggersen Hartlötgerät Ergomax

2026-06-17T18:22:34Z

NitramLegov: Reverted edit by ANDREASN (talk) to last revision by NitramLegov

==Greggersen Hartlötgerät Ergomax==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Greggersen Hartlötgerät Ergomax
|german=
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=[https://www.kaeltetechnik-shop.at/mediafiles/Sonstiges/Greggersen/Greggersen_IND_Bedienungsanleitung_Ergomax_Plus.pdf kaeltetechnik-shop.at]
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=Done
|NamingComment=Hartlötgerät mit Sauerstoff- und Propangasflasche
|Picture=
|PictureComment=
|Manual=Done
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=Proposal: Hard Soldering Introduction<br/>Hartlöten mit Sauerstoff-Propan-Flamme (Temperaturen bis ~2.800°C),
|Security=
|SecurityComment=Druckminderer, Schutzausrüstung und Lüftung sind Pflicht.
Bei Brand: Kein Wasser, stattdessen CO₂-Löscher oder Löschdecke.
Sauerstoff + Fett = Selbstentzündung!
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

Greggersen Hartlötgerät Ergomax

2026-06-17T18:12:08Z

NitramLegov: Reverted edits by ANDREASN (talk) to last revision by NitramLegov

Network

2026-06-16T16:41:16Z

NitramLegov: /* Network Infrastructure */ CNC Switch added

From a physical perspective, the network at the CoMakingSpace is built up as follows:
<mermaid> graph LR
subgraph lan [LAN]
0[CommonRoom Fritz!Box] --> A[CommonRoom UCG Ultra]
A --> C[Seminar Corner Switch]
A --> E[Office Router]
C --> F[Canon MF752Cdw]
C --> G[WebOS TV Left]
C --> H[WebOS TV Right]
click A "http://10.0.0.1" _blank
click K "http://homeassistant.local:8123" _blank
end

subgraph workshop[Wood Workshop-LAN]
A --> D[Wood Workshop Switch]
D --> S[Logo-Felder_RL_160]
D --> I[Wood Workshop Access Point]
end

subgraph eroom [E-Room-LAN]
A --> B[E-Room Switch]
B --> WCNC1(Workbee CNC)
click WCNC1 "https://workbeecnc.fritz.box" _blank
B --> WCNC2(Workbee CNC Tablet)
B --> J(Epilog Legend 36Ext)
B --> K[HomeAssistant]

end
subgraph wlan [WLAN]
A -.-> L(Laser PC)
A -.-> M(Slicing PC)
A -.-> N(P7)
A -.-> O(P8)
A -.-> P(ESPHome_Garbage_Sign)
A -.-> Q(Trash Tracker)
A -.-> R(prusa-link)
end
style wlan fill:#6dc8fc
</mermaid>

The main UCG Ultra provides IPs within the 10.0.0.0/8

The DHCP Server provides dynamic IP adresses for clients in the range 10.100.0.0 - 10.100.255.255

All other IP Adresses are static adresses and listed below

===Network Infrastructure===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| UCG Ultra
|10.0.0.1
|-
|Office Fritz!Box
|10.0.0.2
|-
|Kitchen Switch
|10.0.0.3
|-
|E-Room Switch
|10.0.0.4
|-
|Wood Workshop Switch
|10.0.0.5
|-
|Seminar Corner Switch
|10.0.0.6
|-
|Office Switch
|10.0.0.7
|-
|CNC Switch
|10.0.0.8
|-
|Kitchen AP
|10.0.1.1
|-
|Wood Workshop AP
|10.0.1.2
|}

=== Access Infrastructure ===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| CoMS Access Controller
|10.0.2.0
|-
|Main Entrance - Common Room Door Hub
|10.0.2.1
|-
|Main Entrance - Common Room Reader
|10.0.2.2
|-
|Common Room - Workshop
|10.0.2.3
|-
|Common Room - E-Room
|10.0.2.4
|-
|Common Room - Storage
|10.0.2.5
|-
|Common Room - Office
|10.0.2.6
|-
|Common Room - Manager Storage
|10.0.2.7
|}

===IoT-related devices===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Homeassistant
|10.1.0.1
|-
|OfficePi
|10.1.0.2
|-
|ScannerPi
|10.1.0.3
|-
|Shelly - RouterTable (COMS00154)
|10.1.0.6
|-
|<s>Shelly - Felder AF 14 (COMS00073)</s>
|<s>10.1.0.7</s>
|-
|<s>Shelly - Festool CTM26 E AC (COMS00021) (Chip)</s>
|<s>10.1.0.8</s>
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00159)
|10.1.0.9
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00158)
|10.1.0.10
|-
|Logo-LaserAbluft
|10.1.0.11
|-
|ESPHome_Garbage_Sign
|10.1.0.12
|-
|Trash Tracker
|10.1.0.13
|-
|Logo-Felder_RL_160
|10.1.0.14
|-
|LGwebOSTV (Left)
|10.1.0.15
|-
|LGwebOSTV (Right)
|10.1.0.16
|-
|Tasmota-MembersWall
|10.1.0.17
|-
|ESPHome-Plug-InfraredHeater
|10.1.0.18
|-
|MembersWall ESP
|10.1.0.19
|}

=== Machines===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Laser PC
|10.2.0.1
|-
|Slicing PC
|10.2.0.2
|-
|[[Workbee]] CNC Router
|10.2.0.3
|-
|Workbee CNC Tablet
|10.2.0.4
|-
|BambuLab ([[P7]])
|10.2.0.5
|-
|BambuLab ([[P8]])
|10.2.0.6
|-
|prusa-link
|10.2.0.8
|-
|epilog legend 36ext
|10.2.0.9
|-
|[[Laser Printers|Canon MF752Cdw]]
|10.2.0.10
|-
|Duet "Blackbox" CNC
|10.2.0.11
|}

===Configuration Changes ===

If you need to change settings for our Network, please contact {{IT-manager}}.

[[Category:Facilities]]

Project:Kitchen Counter

2026-06-15T08:27:29Z

NitramLegov: Remove incomplete - I don´t think anything will be documented here anymore 😅

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title= Kitchen Counter
|image=Kuechentheke aris 201903 2.jpg
|status=Almost finished
|date=22.03.2019
|initiator=[[Aris]], [[Manu]]
|materials=[[Reclaimed Wood]]
|tools=[[Handheld Router]], [[Router Table]], [[Table Saw]]
|cost=~60 € for the wheels
}}

This kitchen counter is currently being built by [[Aris]] and [[Manu]] for the [https://transitionhaus-heidelberg.org/ TransitionHaus].

[[File:Kuechentheke aris 201903 2.jpg|thumb|300px|center|The almost finished kitchen counter with [[Aris]] testing its stability.]]

[[Category:Woodworking]]
[[Category:Furniture]]
[[Category:Upcycling]]

Greggersen Hartlötgerät Ergomax

2026-06-15T08:22:17Z

NitramLegov: Remove picture (We should take our own :-) ), details in commissioning box

User:Loewenstein

2026-06-15T08:14:17Z

NitramLegov: fix github name

{{UserInfoBox
|real_name=Jan von Löwenstein
|image=
|expertise=
|interests=Woodworking
|projects=
|email=jan.loewenstein@gmail.com
|website=
|instagram=
|twitter=
|github=loewenstein
|thingiverse=
|telegram=
}}

==Tools I am allowed to use==

*[[Chop Saw]]
*[[Handheld Router]]
*[[Router Table]]
*[[3D Printers]]
*[[Bench Grinders]]
*[[Jointer-Planer]]
*[[Hand Planes]]
*[[Bandsaws]]

User:Trix

2026-06-15T08:13:54Z

NitramLegov: fix github name

{{UserInfoBox
|real_name= Tom
|expertise= Software, Medical Computer Science
|interests= Photoacoustic Imaging, Sign Language, Euro Coins
|github= TomTomRixRix
}}
Hi, I'm Tom a rather new member of the comaking space. I like the feeling of having a garage full of nice tools to craft stuff, that's something I've missed after moving out of my parents place. Building something makes me often proud of the product afterwards.

While working in the field of Photoacoustic Imaging at [https://www.dkfz.de DKFZ], i.e. Medical Computer Science, I enjoy working on private projects. They are mostly software related, e.g. Android apps and web apps, but every once in a while they are also hands-on.

== Completed Instructions ==

* Drilling
* Laser Cutting
*3D Printing

== Instructions I'm interested in ==

* CNC mill

Project:Press Tool for Headset Cups Holder

2026-05-26T14:00:03Z

NitramLegov: Display Title not needed

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title={{PAGENAME}}
|image=Press Tool for Headset Cups Holder with mount.png
|status=done
|date=14.05.2026
|initiator=[[LabCrow]]
|team=
|materials=[[PETG]]
|tools=[[3D Printers]]
[[Cordless Drills]]
|software=[[Onshape]]
|cost=
}}
==Idea==
There are still some tools that don't yet have their right place in the bike area such as this [[Headset Press Tool]]. So I made a simple mounting system that can handle the load because the screws go through the whole hook.

==Creation Steps / Process==
I designed a hook that has 35mm space to the wall and contains a through hole of 5.5mm for the M5 wood screw. It was printed using PETG for longevity and without supports (also: 2 walls, 15% gyroid infill) before being mounted to the wooden wall with about 35 mm between them.
[[File:Press Tool for Headset Cups Holder single hook.png|center|thumb]]
[[File:Press Tool for Headset cups holder mount.png|center|thumb]]

==Learnings==
Sometimes it's better and easier to not overcomplicate things by optimizing the 3D-printed part but to rely on standard pars such as screws.

D/T FeatherBoard (Feather Comb) M‑1407

2026-05-26T13:59:42Z

NitramLegov: Display Title not needed

== FeatherBoard ==

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=FeatherBoard
|german=Federklemme
|image=Featherboards routertable dualuse.jpg
|synonyms=Federklemme
|type=
|status=available
|material=[[wood]]
|used with=[[Router Table]], [[Table Saw]]
|location=
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}'''Available as of July 2025''' – the '''Milescraft Dual/Tandem FeatherBoard (M‑1407)''' is now part of our equipment lineup. Designed for use in the T-slots of our Router Table, this 2‑in‑1 device enhances safety and precision.

==== 🛠 Description & Use-Cases ====
A versatile feather board that can be used:

* '''As two separate units''' for clamping small or narrow workpieces.
* '''Stacked with spacer''' for holding taller or wider stock securely

==== 📏 Technical Data ====

* '''Length:''' approx. 200 mm
* '''Adjustment range:''' ~130 mm
* Includes both '''5/8″ and 3/4″ guide/miter bars''' and '''T-slot bolts''', compatible with our router table and table saw rails

==== ✅ Features & Benefits ====

* Flat tension design enables consistent, reliable feed pressure and substantially '''reduces kick-back risk'''.
* Ergonomic knobs allow '''quick, secure clamping''' and easy adjustment.
* '''Two-in-one functionality''': separate units or tandem with spacer — ideal for diverse workpiece sizes

==== 📦 Included Scope ====
[[File:Scope featherboard.jpg|thumb]]
* 2 × FeatherBoard units
* 1 × Spacer for tandem use
* 4 × T-slot locking screws
* 2 × 5/8″ guide bars
* 2 × 3/4″ guide bars
* 2 x long screws for tandem use in u-profile
* 4 x short screws for single use in u-profiles
* 4 x black short screws for tandem use (SAFETY FEATURE)

==== ⚠️ Safety & Use Instructions ====

* Mount boards so that “fingers” apply light to firm pressure on the workpiece '''before it enters the bit'''.<gallery>
File:Featherboard correctuse.jpg|correct use.
File:Featherboard falseuse.jpg|false use!
</gallery>
* Adjust spacing and pressure for smooth movement without pinching.
* Always verify secure attachment of guide bars and fasteners.
* Dual use on router table:<gallery>
File:Featherboards routertable dualuse.jpg
</gallery>
* Tandem use:<gallery>
File:Featherboard tandem.jpg
File:Featherboard tandem1.jpg|alt=Only use u-profile guide bars!
File:Featherboard router correctuse.jpg
</gallery>Only use u-profile guide bars for tandem use! Fix the featherboards to the spacer with the 4 black screws!
*It's not recommended to use two featherboards in row in the same t- oder u-profile!
* Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRG09xmT12I

==== 📦 Storage ====
Store the FeatherBoard next to the Router Table. Please return everything after use. Further accessories (e.g. srews for tandem use, guide bars etc.) can be found in the cabinet behind the router table

<gallery>
File:Featherboards storage.jpg
</gallery>{{DEFAULTSORT:FeatherBoard}}

User:NitramLegov/Playground

2026-05-25T13:21:07Z

NitramLegov:

<mermaid>flowchart TD
Internet([Internet]) --> Caddy

subgraph Server["🖥️ Server"]
Caddy[Caddy\nReverse Proxy]
MediaWiki[MediaWiki]
SnipeIT[SnipeIT]
Contactserver[Contactserver]
N8N_S[n8n]
Caddy --> MediaWiki
Caddy --> SnipeIT
Caddy --> Contactserver
Caddy --> N8N_S
end

subgraph Werkstatt["🏭 Werkstatt"]
UnifiNet[Unifi Network]
UnifiAccess[Unifi Access]
N8N_W[n8n]
end

subgraph SaaS["☁️ SaaS"]
Webling[Webling]
Slack[Slack]
BHB[Buchhaltungsbutler]
Nextcloud[Nextcloud]
GHPages[GitHub Pages]
end

N8N_S -- Mitgliederdaten --> BHB
N8N_S -- Rechnungsdaten --> BHB
N8N_S -- Mitglieder & Status --> MediaWiki
N8N_S -- Maschinen --> GHPages
N8N_S -- Einweisungen --> Webling
N8N_S -- Mitglieder --> UnifiAccess

Webling -.->|sync| N8N_S
SnipeIT -.->|sync| N8N_S
MediaWiki -.->|sync| N8N_S</mermaid>

Talk:Freifunk

2026-05-25T13:13:33Z

NitramLegov: /* Seems outdated? */ Reply

== Seems outdated? ==

I don't think we still have a freifunk hotspot? At least I never noticed one in the few years I am here. [[User:No.shoes|No.shoes]] ([[User talk:No.shoes|talk]]) 14:43, 25 May 2026 (CEST)

:You are right. I updated the page. [[User:NitramLegov|NitramLegov]] ([[User talk:NitramLegov|talk]]) 15:13, 25 May 2026 (CEST)

Freifunk

2026-05-25T13:13:09Z

NitramLegov: Update information

''Feel free to access the internet through our "freifunk-rhein-neckar" node! You should find it with any smartphone or WiFi-enabled computer.''

[https://www.freifunk-rhein-neckar.de/die_idee.html Freifunk ''(DE)''] is providing shared internet access to everyone. There is also a local intitiative, "Freifunk Rhein-Neckar hilft", to provide refugees with internet access - check the Freifunk website, forum and mailing list for further information.

The CoMakingSpace used to provide free internet access using Freifunk. Currently (May 2026), we just operate a regular WLAN.

Large Format Printer Introduction

2026-05-23T08:53:06Z

NitramLegov: Add waiting list notice

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Large Format Printer]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors:

[[User:Björn|Björn]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the [[Large Format Printer|machine's wiki page]] and manual (German and English language manuals are linked on the machine's wiki page).

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: No specific personal protection equipment needed

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| [[File:Danger - poisonous substances.svg|left|50px]]LCD Display
contains mercury
| In case the LCD Display is damaged: DO NOT touch. Contact a supervisor or one of the tutors.
|-
| [[File:Danger - sharp objects.svg|left|50px]]CUTTER KNIFE
''The printer has a built-in cutter knife to automatically cut roll paper after the print is finished.''
|DO NOT open the printer door whilst the printer is printing and for about 1 min after the print is finished.
Note: the cutting option can be disabled to prevent the print from falling onto the floor and to allow for manual cutting.
|-
|Paper Source set incorrectly
|CHECK if paper-setting is set correctly to either SHEET or ROLL-PAPER. If SHEET is selected but you're printing on ROLL paper, this WILL unload the entire paper roll onto the floor!
|-
|Paper Type
|DO NOT use paper that's only suitable for solvent-/alcohol-based inks (for example, most vinyl-, PVC-and transparent papers). Ink won't dry on those papers!
MAKE SURE that your paper is suitable for pigment type inks.
Using the wrong type of paper may cause damage to the printhead and the printer.
|-
|
|
|}

== Visual "How to print" guide ==
[https://wiki.comakingspace.de/File:Epson_Stylus_Pro_7800_Introduction.pdf Quick Reference PDF] with Screenshots of Affinity Photo and printer driver settings. This '''does not''' replace the mandatory introduction with a tutor!
== Suggested Reading ==
For the [[EPSON Stylus Pro 7800]]:

* The manual's paper handling pages are a '''must-read''', really: '''p56''' for roll paper and '''p64''' for cut sheets
* load roll paper: p58-61
* remove roll paper: p62
* load sheet paper: p65
* load small cut sheet paper: p66
* load posterboard or any media thicker than 0.5 mm: p67-70

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
* How to access the manual and especially the instructions for handling paper
* Structure and content of the [[Large Format Printer]] wiki page
* Explain paper types
** only use paper suitable for '''pigment inks'''
** '''never''' use paper for solvent-/alcohol-based inks (e.g. PVC); ink will not dry and can cause damage to the printer
** adjust drying time (may be necessary for certain media – read the paper manufacturer's information sheet for your paper)
** depending on paper type, the printer's built-in cutter may introduce paper dust inside the printer or blunt the cutter knife '''turn off the cutter function''' if you're using: fine art paper, vinyl, matte board or any other heavyweight paper
* Explain paper weight
** maximum paper weight so not to damage the printer and cutting knife (stay below 350 g/m2 to be on the safe side)
** do not print on cardboard, wood, etc; only use media suitable for pigment-ink inkjet printing
** suction level may need to be adjusted for heavy and lightweight papers
* Things that can damage the printer:
** NEVER manually move the printer head
** NEVER manually move the cutter knife
** NEVER pull the power plug whilst the printer is still turned on
** do not remove, change or replace inks yourself (contact a tutor or manager) – this can damage the ink cartridge seal, introduce air and cause nozzle damage
** always operate the printer via its interface
* Practical demonstration
** how to remove roll paper
** how to insert sheet paper
** how to insert roll paper
** use the correct paper setting ("sheet", "roll" or "roll + scissors")
* Practical demonstration and software workflow (with Affinity Photo) with roll paper:
** create a canvas size of 60 cm (full roll width) '''and''' the intended length (so not to waste paper)
** disable printer cutter function
** explain print dialogue options
*** paper media type and size
*** colour and quality settings
*** colour profile as suggested by paper manufacturer
** do a small test print in vertical format (= more space for final print in the next step)
** manually rewind paper
** position final print to a blank area on the paper (move horizontally)
** cut print manually with scissors (= less paper dust inside the printer)
* Clean up after usage
** cover printer again to protect it from getting dusty
{{Waiting List}}
[[Category:Introductions]]

Waiting Lists

2026-05-23T08:52:01Z

NitramLegov: /* Large Format Printer Introduction */

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

''If you want to "wait" for a vehicle spot, see [[Vehicle Workspaces|vehicle workspaces]].''

<big>'''How to Use'''</big><br>Please '''link''' your [[Special:MyPage|user page]] at the bottom of each list you're interested in after you've filled it with enough information to contact you and/or activated "Allow other users to email me" in your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]]!

DO: link yourself for the introductions you need for your project(s)

DO NOT: link yourself for all available introductions just because you might need it at some point in the future - chances are you'll forget something important by the time you actually use the machine!

If a list is full enough and/or you have been waiting for a while, please reach out to the tool's tutors and kindly ask for a date - maybe they've just been too busy, but it could also be that they missed the list filling up and would appreciate the reminder.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]]==

Tutors:{{#show: 3D Printer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[mobell]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]] (I have quite some experience with my Prusa Mini)
*[[Nikhilesh]] (I have experience with Prussa Mk4 and Bambu Lab X1C at work)
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Arc Welding Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: 45 min + 10 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
*[[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[User:Björn|Björn]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Meyerml|marcel meyer]]
*[[Jakob]]
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]] (no response 2024-6-24)
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]] (no response 2024-6-24)
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Nicolai|Nicolai]]
*[[User:Tom|Thomas Braun]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Heiko|Heiko]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors:
{{#show: Chop Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~30 min

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[LuLeBe|Leander Berg]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]

== [[CNC Mill Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Mill Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 to 2 h

Next Date: 2026-2-22, 12:00-14:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Andreas|Andreas R]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
*[[Utis]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[Mamad]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:Erik1000|Erik]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:AndyWinzen|Andreas Winzen]]
*[[Maker-Joe|Jochen]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 h

Next Date: 2026-2-4, 19:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:FabianM|Fabian]]
*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Mamad|Mamad]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]]

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 15 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Nora|Nora]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:CaroSam|Caroline]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Pierre 7029|Pierre]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Jnafls|Johannes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

==[[Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: na

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
* [[Martin]]
* [[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
* [[Utis]]
* [[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:Dean|Dean]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Hm.mane|Hm.mane]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Neo|Johannes]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]

==[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]==
Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60 min + 15 min per member

Next Date: 2025-7-2, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[Jnafls|Johannnes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[Kjubik]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[FSpiri]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser Cutter Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[MaKu]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Large Format Printer Introduction]] ==
Tutors:

* [[User:Björn|Björn]]

Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-5-22, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
* {{NL}}

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Metal Lathe Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: 2-3h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
*[[User:BenKenobi|Benedict]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[LabCrow]]

== [[Sliding Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Sliding Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2026-4-15, 19:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:Mobell|Moritz B.]]
*
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[User:Nibuzz]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]
*[[User:Johanna|Johanna]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[TBAG|Theo]]

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2025-6-18 20:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[FSpiri]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[TBAG]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]

== [[Vertical Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Vertical Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1.5 h

Next Date: 2025-6-25, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response 2024-3 & 2024-11)
*[[User:MarcW|Marc Werther]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[Nicolai]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Woodturning Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 20 min per person

Next Date: 2026-1-28, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response July & Nov 2023)
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:Micha|Micha]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Joey|Joel A.]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]
*[[User:MarcW|Marc Werther]]

[[Category:Introductions]]

Table Saw Introduction

2026-05-21T20:44:34Z

NitramLegov: Remove Baumphil as Tutor

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Table Saw|table saw]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Jaggi2|Jakob S.]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have '''read the machine's [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46190/Elektra-Beckum-Topline-Pk-255.html manual]'''.

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]]

A [[Dust Masks|dust mask]] may also be necessary depending on the material you are cutting!

* [[gloves]]: make an informed decision
** some sources say you should wear them to protect yourself against splinters which could surprise you and make your hand flinch in a dangerous position
** others prohibit the use of gloves, fearing your entire hand could be dragged into the blade if one gets caught

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| sharp and rotating exposed blade, with chances of flesh wounds and missing limbs
* will keep spinning for a bit after turning the power off!
||
* your hands need to stay well clear (at least a hand's width) of the blade at all times
** use a [[Push Sticks|push stick]] if you have something small to cut!
* do not use the table saw when you are alone in the Space, you might need another Maker to call help in case of an accident
** make yourself familiar with [[Amputate Bags|amputate bags]] for the worst case
* height of the blade: make an informed decision
** high blade: cuts "down", not pushing against you - makes the saw easier to use and leads to less of a difference between cut distances on top and bottom BUT it exposes a lot of the dangerous blade
** low blade: lower risk of serious injury (could cut into your finger, not as easily ''trough'' it) but you have to push the workpiece harder
* use the top blade guard whenever it is not hindering your cut - it should be fixed so its bottom edge is horizontal and at least 10 mm above the workpiece
|-
| kickback - if the workpiece is pressed against the blade's side, it can be thrown towards the operator!
* check out [https://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4?t=150 this video on YouTube] to see what that looks like
||
[[File:Two table saw fences.png|thumb|150px|right|DO NOT use both fences at once!]]
* never use both fences at once (option: fence + stop block which ends before the blade begins)
* never remove the riving knife ("splitter") and check its alignment before every use of the saw
** needs to be exactly in line with the saw blade
** distance to the teeth should be about 5 mm along the entire edge
* make sure the parallel fence is in fact parallel or angled ever so slightly ''away'' from the blade
* do not cut several pieces on top of each other!
* use a shorter parallel fence when cutting solid wood ''(Massivholz)'' - that way, there is room for tensions to be released after the cut (second half of the blade should stand "free")<sup> [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhnIqY3Fqqg&t=1m35s]</sup>
* stand on the side of the machine's front where you can support the main part of your workpiece (usually the left)
* give the saw time to start up before touching the blade with your workpiece!
|-
| sawdust and small splinters can fly towards the operator ||
* wear [[goggles]]
* use the [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]] and - whenever possible - the top blade guard (sucks up dust as well!)
* wear a [[Dust Masks|dust mask]] depending on the material you are cutting
|}

== Practical Demonstration ==
* how to set up parallel fence, miter fence or crosscut sled
* safety switch - accessible by knee so you don't need to let go of your workpiece
* practice cut(s)
* how to adjust blade height and angle (if angle is changed: return to exactly 90° by means of a [[square]] or [[inclinometer]]!)
* show & explain the nearest [[Amputate Bag|amputate bag]]

{{Waiting List}}

{{#set:
| checklist_title=Table Saw
| checklist_symbols=M004
| checklist_symbols=M003
| checklist_symbols=M002
| checklist_symbols=M016
| checklist_link=https://wiki.comakingspace.de/index.php?title=Table_Saw_Introduction
| checklist_before=**Must** check that someone can help in case of an accident
| checklist_before=**Should** check dust extraction
| checklist_before=**Must** check riving knife alignment
| checklist_before=**Must** check blade height
| checklist_before=Push-stick needed?
| checklist_before=Use only **one** fence at the same time
| checklist_before=**Must** check surroundings
| checklist_during=**Must not** cut multiple pieces at once
| checklist_after=cleanup
}}

[[Category:Introductions]]

Reciprocating Saw Introduction

2026-05-21T20:44:18Z

NitramLegov: Remove Baumphil as Tutor

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Reciprocating Saw| reciprocating saw]] and [[Introduction for::jigsaws]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Sebastian|Sebastian]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the corresponding tool's manual:
* [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1125358/Bosch-Pfz-700-Pe.html Bosch PFZ 700 PE]
* [http://www.lidl-service.com/static/134937369/114249_DE.pdf Parkside PSTD 800 A1]
* [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1115989/Bosch-Pst-650-Pe.html Bosch PST 750 PE]
* [https://www.icmsmakita.eu/CMS/custom/fi/attachments/user_manuals/User_manuals_EU2/DJV181.pdf Makita DJV181]

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]][[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50x50px]]

''Additional protection for toxic or allergenic woods (especially hardwoods, e.g. beech and oak - see "[[dust]]") or for certain surface finishes or chemicals:'' [[File:Protection - breathing.svg|50x50px]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| sharp oscillating blade - possible kickback ||
* you MUST NOT turn on the saw when the blade is already touching something (e.g. the workpiece)
* you MUST let the baseplate touch the workpiece before starting to cut
* blind cut: leave the sawblade in the cut until it has stopped
* through cut: make sure the blade has stopped moving before putting the saw back on the table
* you MUST make sure the blade path is free and you won't cut into the table or similar
* you MUST make sure the blade is long enough so that it can reach through the material when fully retracted (too short a blade relative to the material being cut will cause dangerous kickback)
* you MUST make sure there are no obstacles such as nails in your path before starting a cut
* you MUST secure the workpiece with [[clamps]] so nothing shifts and nothing large falls down once the cut is made
|-
| generates dust and small chips ||
* you MUST wear [[goggles]]
* you SHOULD hook up the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] (and deactivate the "dust blow" function of the saw, if available)
* if your workpiece is contaminated with chemicals or made from hard woods like beech ''(Buche)'' or oak ''(Eiche)'', you SHOULD use a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]]
|-
| generates noise ||
* you MUST wear [[Ear Defenders|ear defenders]]
|-
|
the blade can get very hot
* remains hot for a while after using
|| when you see smoke, immediately stop and inspect the saw - the blade might be dull or jammed in the workpiece. Also do not stay in the same place for too long!
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_sudden_start.svg|left|50px]] no prevention of turning on after loss & restoration of power (''keine Anlaufsicherung'') ||
* you MUST make sure the locking button is "off" before plugging the saw in (the trigger should move freely)
|}

== Demonstration ==
During the introduction, the tutor will show you the following:
* inserting/removing saw blades
* choosing and changing the pendulum or orbital action settings (Bosch PFZ 700 PE: chapter 7 in the manual)

Besides these safety notes, you should know which type of blade is suitable for the material you want to cut!

[[Category:Introductions]]

Joinery Machine Introduction

2026-05-21T20:44:07Z

NitramLegov: Remove Baumphil as Tutor

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Biscuit Joiner|biscuit joiners]] and [[Introduction for::Loose Tenon Joiner|loose tenon joiners]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]]

First off, make sure you have read the respective machine's manual:
* [https://media.bahag.com/assets/11/08/1108343_22120348.pdf Toolson PRO-DF 860]
* [https://www.bedienungsanleitu.ng/festool/df-500-q-set/anleitung Festool Domino DF 500]

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - no gloves.svg|50px]]

(a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]] could also be necessary depending on your material)

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| exposed & rapidly spinning milling cutter
* will keep spinning for a few seconds after the tool is turned off
||
* do not engage the tool when not in contact with the workpiece
* do '''not''' wear [[gloves]] while operating the machine, they could get caught!
** however, gloves may protect your fingers during a cutter change (machine '''unplugged''')
* always check whether the tool movement you are planning is possible '''before''' turning it on - adjust depth if necessary
|-
| flying splinters and dust ||
* wear [[goggles]], a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]] could also be necessary depending on your material
* hook up a shop vac, if possible
** otherwise attach a dust collection bag & keep it clean
* make sure there is nobody nearby who might be surprised by a piece of shrapnel flying their way!
|-
| the tool might move due to the force of the milling cutter|| always hold the machine in both hands (handle and "tail") and only push into the wood slowly
|-
| no prevention of turning on after loss & restoration of power ''(keine Anlaufsicherung)'' || if the power has been lost for whatever reason, make sure the machine is turned off before restoring it!
|-
| [[File:danger - heat.svg|50px]] the cutter gets extremely hot
* can potentially set the sawdust on fire
* remains hot for a while after using
|| take breaks, be careful when you need to change the cutter
|}
''Special note from the Festool company: Reliable setting of the dowel-hole width with the rotary switch [1‑2] '''is only possible with the machine running'''!''

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps with one of the machines:
* selecting [[biscuit]] or [[Loose Tenon|loose tenon]] size
** make yourself familiar with [https://www.bauhaus.info/suche/produkte?text=craftomat+flachd%C3%BCbel different biscuit sizes (0, 10, 20)] and loose tenon options during the planning stage of your project!
* setting the cut depth according to the selected biscuit/tenon option
** Festool Domino DF 500: you also need to set the cutting width according to the your tenon & cutter
* setting the cutting height
** the height ruler refers to the center of the cutter, so you do '''not''' need to subtract its thickness
* setting the cutting angle
* aligning the tool with your workpiece
* working on vertical cuts: compared to horizontal cuts (into the workpiece edge), the machine is much more likely to slide around! Clamp down a temporary fence for accuracy
* practice cut!

[[Category:Introductions]]

Bottom Bracket Tool

2026-05-17T17:52:19Z

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{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Bottom Bracket Tool
|german=Tretlagerwerkzeug
|image=Bottom Bracket Tool.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Tretlagerwerkzeug
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}A bottom bracket tool is a special tool needed on a bicycle to remove, install, or service the bottom bracket ''(Tretlager)''.

'''Available Sizes:'''

* HCW-4
* HCW-5

[[Category:Cycling]]

File:Bottom Bracket Tool.jpg

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bottom bracket tool

Cone Wrenches

2026-05-17T17:51:04Z

NitramLegov: Formatting

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Bicycle Cone Wrench
|german= Konusschlüssel
|image= Bicycle Cone Wrench.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Konusschlüssel
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}A bicycle cone wrench is an ultra-thin, specialized open-ended spanner used to adjust the hub bearings (cones) on bicycle wheels. It is typically about 2-7 mm thick, allowing it to fit into the narrow gaps of a hub assembly to hold the cone nut in place while tightening or loosening the locknut.

'''Available Sizes:'''
* SCW-13: 13 mm
* SCW-14: 14 mm
* SCW-15: 15 mm
* SCW-16: 16 mm
* SCW-17: 17 mm
* SCW-18: 18 mm
* SCW-19: 19 mm
* SCW-20: 20 mm
* SCW-21: 21 mm
* SCW-22: 22 mm
* SCW-23: 23 mm
* SCW-24: 24 mm
* SCW-26: 26 mm
* SCW-28: 28 mm

'''Here is the breakdown of why they are unique and essential:'''

* Why so thin? Standard wrenches are about 2-7 mm thick. If you use a standard wrench on a hub cone, it is too wide and will bind with the locknut. Cone wrenches are specially designed to be slim enough to adjust the cone without touching the locknut.
* What they do: They adjust the "bearing preload". When servicing a wheel, you need to tighten the cones just enough to remove any wobble (play), while keeping the wheel spinning perfectly smooth.
* How they work: You use the cone wrench on the inner cone nut and a second wrench (or another cone wrench) on the outer locknut to secure the setting.
* Handle with care: Because they are so thin, they are meant only for low-torque adjustments. Using a cone wrench to loosen heavy, stuck nuts will easily bend or snap the tool.

'''Further explanations and links regarding the handling:'''

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97LMt87OAa4

File:Bicycle Cone Wrench.jpg

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Cone Wrench

T-Handle Hex Keys

2026-05-17T17:49:30Z

NitramLegov: Formatting

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Allen key set
|german= T-Griff-Schlüssel-Satz |image= Allen Key Set.jpg
|synonyms=DE: T-Griff-Schlüssel-Satz
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location= [[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}An Allen key set (hex key set) is a collection of L-shaped, six-sided (hexagonal) tools. They are designed to tighten or loosen bolts and screws with matching hexagonal recesses. These sets provide versatile torque and leverage for assembling furniture, bicycles, and machinery

'''Available Sizes:'''

T-handle hex key

* 2{{X}}90 mm
* 2.5{{X}}100 mm
* 3{{X}}115 mm
* 4{{X}}120 mm
* 5{{X}}140 mm
* 6{{X}}160 mm
* 8{{X}}175 mm
* 10{{X}}200 mm

File:Allen Key Set.jpg

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T-handle hex key

Headset Press Tool

2026-05-17T17:44:50Z

NitramLegov: Formatting

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name= Headset Press Tool
|german= Steuersatz Einpresswerkzeug
|image= Headset Press Tool.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Steuersatz Einpresswerkzeug
|type=
|status=Available
|material=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}A headset press tool is a specialized bicycle mechanic tool used to press the upper and lower bearing cups evenly and securely into a bicycle's head tube. It prevents frame damage that can occur when using improper methods like a hammer.

=== '''How it Works''' ===
The tool operates like a giant clamp or heavy-duty bolt:

* The Spindle: A long threaded rod goes through the frame's head tube.
* The Handles/Nuts: Handles or large nuts on either end are tightened, drawing the two ends closer together.
* The Press Plates/Drifts: Specially sized adapters (called "drifts" or "cones") sit against the headset cups and perfectly center them in the frame while applying equal pressure.

=== '''When and Why it is Used''' ===
* For press-fit headsets: Crucial for installing External Cup (EC) and Zero Stack (ZS) headsets, where the metal bearing cups are a tight friction-fit inside the frame.
* For integrated headsets: Modern frames with Integrated (IS) headsets drop the bearings directly into molded recesses in the frame, making a press tool

File:Headset Press Tool.jpg

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Press Tool

EPSON Stylus Pro 7800

2026-05-16T14:01:08Z

NitramLegov: Leading headline

==EPSON Stylus Pro 7800==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=EPSON Stylus Pro 7800
|german=Drucker
|image=Epson printer comakingspace.jpg
|assetid=200|material=[[Paper]]
|manual=[https://download.epson-europe.com/pub/download/248/epson24761eu.pdf Epson-Europe.com Installation Manuel]
<br />
[https://download.epson-europe.com/pub/download/248/epson24768eu.pdf Epson-Europe.com User Manual (DE)]
<br />
[https://files.support.epson.com/pdf/pro78_/pro78_gd.pdf Epson.com User Manual (EN)]
<br />
[https://manualzz.com/download/54301166 Service Manual (EN)]
<br />
[https://www.scribd.com/document/383645414/7800-fielde-service Field Repair Guide (EN)]
}}

The <bdi>EPSON Stylus Pro 7800 is a large format inkjet color printer. It uses pigmented inks to produce photo-quality printouts up to 60cm width.</bdi>

Because of the pigmented inks the printer can not be used with certain media such as PVC.

{{Commissioning|IssueNumber=336|Naming=Done|Manual=Done|Picture=Done|Documentation=Done|Introduction=Done|OwnerValue=Done}}

This printer is a professional machine, and has a lot more features (and things that can go wrong) than a consumer-type inkjet printer. This includes '''potential printer damage''' (especially when removing or changing paper stock or inks). Here are a few examples:

* the printer uses a suction-system to flatten the paper (the suction level, for example, may need to be adjusted for heavy and lightweight papers)
* a built-in camera is used for calibration purposes
* drying time is adjustable to make the print head pause for up to 10s after each pass (necessary for certain media)
* changing inks keeps the printer busy for about 10 minutes (and uses a lot of ink) (Do not remove, change or replace inks yourself).

Please read this wiki page, and ideally also the manual. (The manual's paper handling pages are a '''must-read''', really: p56 for roll paper and p64 for cut sheets).

Familiarise yourself with the printer ('''and''' its options in the printer driver). Do not just "send a file" and then walk away, especially when using the printer for the first time.

For example: a wrong setting can easily waste several meters of roll paper. The wrong paper setting can waste valuable ink (without any added benefit to print quality).

If the print quality is not good enough: contact a manager or tutor. If the ink levels in the printer driver dialogue look below 25%: contact a manager. (Due to minimum order value, we need to order at least 2 inks, so if only one ink is low, also mention the 2nd lowest).

== General Information ==

* At the moment, the printer is not connected to the network and can only be used via the attached USB Cable and with your own Mac or PC.
* In order to print, you first need to install the printer driver from the Epson downloads page: [https://www.epson.eu/en_EU/support/sc/epson-stylus-pro-7800/s/s537?selected-tab=&selected-os=Windows+10+64-bit&selected-lang=en Windows 10] , [https://www.epson.eu/en_EU/support/sc/epson-stylus-pro-7800/s/s537?selected-tab=&selected-os=Windows+11&selected-lang=en Windows 11], [https://www.epson.eu/en_EU/support/sc/epson-stylus-pro-7800/s/s537?selected-tab=&selected-os=macOS+15+%28Sequoia%29&selected-lang=en MacOS 15]. For detailed installation instructions, please see p43-49 in the English manual linked above.
* Linux is not supported.
* Downloads for older operating systems can be selected from the download page and go back as far back as Windows XP or MacOS 7.6
We're using third-party inks from easy-inks.de, which are considerably cheaper than the original Epson inks. Color accuracy is very good, but the ink-tank's vacuum-seal is not quite the same quality. If the printer hasn't been used for a prolonged period, it may be required to remove and re-insert some of the in-tanks. If this is the case, just follow the instructions on the printer's LCD display.

== Attention --- Avoid Printer Damage ==

* '''Don't move the printer''', especially not across several meters! Each ink-cartridge has a an ink-chip, and moving the printer across uneven floors can "rattle" and damage the connection between the ink chip and the printer's pin sensors.
* If the '''power light is flashing''': do not turn off the printer, release the paper lever or open the front cover. '''This may damage the printer'''!
* Never(!) move the '''print head''' by hand. '''This may damage the printer'''!
* Do not move the cutting blade carriage. '''This may damage the printer'''!
** Turn off the cutter function if you're using: fine art paper, vinyl , matte board or any other heavyweight paper
* Do not change or '''replace''' '''inks'''. Contact a manager.
** also: do not '''remove/re-insert''' inks unnecessarily. This can wear out the seal and allow air into the ink system, and in the worst case scenario cause '''nozzle damage.'''
* Only use media suitable for '''pigment inks'''. (For example: do not use PVC-based vinyl). If the paper does not absorb the ink, it will cause the printed ink to spill inside the printer, which may cause damage to the printer.
* Thick paper (more than 0.5 mm for roll paper) can '''damage the''' '''built-in cutter'''.
* Always turn off the printer from the control panel. Do not pull the power plug until the printer has been turned off properly.
* Don't touch the '''ink supply''' port, or the green IC chip on the ink cartridge.
* Do not try to update the printer's firmware!

== How to change or insert paper ==

* If the '''power light is flashing''': do not release the paper lever or open the front cover. '''This may damage the printer'''!
* Please read the manual and its illustrations. The following page numbers refer to the EN language manual linked above:0
** remove roll paper: p62
** load roll paper: p58-61
** load sheet paper: p65
** load small cut sheet paper: p66
** load posterboard or any media thicker than 0.5 mm: p67-70
* Make sure you select the correct Media Type setting in the printer driver. Always select the correct paper source (roll or sheet) in the printer driver '''and''' the printer's control panel.
* The control panel displays one of three icon types: "sheet", "roll" or "roll + scissors" (if you want the printer to cut the paper automatically after your job is printed).

== What paper can I use? ==

* the printer can use '''roll paper''' or '''cut sheets'''
* max paper '''width''' is 24 inches (60 cm)
* max paper '''thickness''' is 0.5 mm (roll paper) and 1.5 mm (cut sheets)

== Printer driver options – Colour Management ==
The Epson Stylus Photo 7800 can produce stunning photo-quality prints. To get the best possible print results, familiarize yourself with the Epson Driver's paper configuration and color management options. See p80-97 (Mac OS) and p100-115 (Windows).

When using non-Epson media such as Hahnemühle fine art papers etc, you should install the paper manufacturer's ICC paper profiles to your computer. (Hahnemühle's papers, for example, come with a small instructions leaflet about this). The Epson Stylus Pro 7800 is the smaller version of the 9800, so color profiles are interchangeable. Both printers are way beyond their production date, but Hahnemühle, for example, still offers profiles in their [https://www.hahnemuehle.com/en/digital-papers/icc-profile/archive.html ICC profiles archive page].

To install a printer/paper color profile:

* download the profile and if it's a ZIP file: unzip/extract it
* register the .icc or .icm file into Windows
** Option 1: Right-click the extracted ICC profile file and select Install Profile
** Option 2: Copy and paste the profile file directly into the Windows system directory path: C:\Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color
* Restart your software (Affinity Photo, Photoshop etc). A computer restart is usually not required.
* Configure your software's printer driver:
** set '''Color Handling''' to '''Performed by App''' (this tells Affinity Photo to handle the colors instead of the printer driver)
** Open the '''Printer Profile''' dropdown menu and select your newly installed profile
** Set the '''Rendering Intent''' to '''Relative Colorimetric''' (recommended for most fine-art photo prints) or '''Perceptual'''
** to avoid "double profiling" (which ruins print colors), you must turn off color control inside the Epson print driver:
*** Click '''Properties''' (or ''Printer Properties'') inside the Affinity Print dialog box.
*** Set the '''Paper Type''' and '''Print Quality''' to the settings specified in the Hahnemühle instruction PDF that came with your downloaded profile
*** Go to the driver's '''More Options''' or '''Advanced''' tab.
*** Under '''Color Correction''', select '''Custom''', click '''Advanced''', and explicitly choose '''No Color Adjustment''' (or ''No Color Management'').
*** Click '''OK''' to save the driver settings, then click '''Print''' inside Affinity Photo
** If you plan to use a paper/profile regularly, you can '''save these configurations as a print preset.''' (Please give it a meaningful name, so it can't get confused with other settings)

== Safety Precausions ==

* The printer weighs 60kg. Do not try to detach the printer from its stand!
* Do not open the printer or put your hand inside the printer during printing.
* Caution – the printer contains a sharp knife to cut roll-paper after printing.
* the lightbulb inside the printer contains mercury.

[[Category:Print Media]]