CoMakingSpace Wiki - User Contributions [en]

Bottom Bracket Tool

2026-05-16T21:38:42Z

Lukas:

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Bottom Bracket Tool
|german=Tretlagerwerkzeug
|image=8105c641-d64f-44c0-8ed0-53f940242d32.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Tretlagerwerkzeug
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}
A bottom bracket tool is a special tool needed on a bicycle to remove, install, or service the bottom bracket ''(Tretlager)''.

[[Category:Cycling]]

Category:Abrasive Blasting

2026-05-08T11:16:30Z

Lukas: aka media blasting

Abrasive blasting or '''media blasting''' (a.k.a. "sandblasting"/''"Sandstrahlen"'', but never actually use sand as [[Material:Blast Media|blast media]]!) is a technique where you basically shoot your workpiece with countless tiny abrasive particles.

You could potentially do it '''outside''' with just a [[compressor]] and an appropriate blasting gun, but our [[Blast Cabinet|blast cabinet]] provides a much safer, cleaner and more effective option if the workpiece is small enough.

== Further Reading ==
* Wikipedia
** [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abrasive_blasting abrasive blasting]
** ''[https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandstrahlen Sandstrahlen (DE)]''

[[Category:Main Category]]

Reciprocating Saw Introduction

2026-05-07T12:01:48Z

Lukas: Tutor Luca

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Reciprocating Saw| reciprocating saw]] and [[Introduction for::jigsaws]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Sebastian|Sebastian]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]], [[Tutor::User:Baumphil|Philip]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the corresponding tool's manual:
* [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1125358/Bosch-Pfz-700-Pe.html Bosch PFZ 700 PE]
* [http://www.lidl-service.com/static/134937369/114249_DE.pdf Parkside PSTD 800 A1]
* [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1115989/Bosch-Pst-650-Pe.html Bosch PST 750 PE]
* [https://www.icmsmakita.eu/CMS/custom/fi/attachments/user_manuals/User_manuals_EU2/DJV181.pdf Makita DJV181]

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]][[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50x50px]]

''Additional protection for toxic or allergenic woods (especially hardwoods, e.g. beech and oak - see "[[dust]]") or for certain surface finishes or chemicals:'' [[File:Protection - breathing.svg|50x50px]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| sharp oscillating blade - possible kickback ||
* you MUST NOT turn on the saw when the blade is already touching something (e.g. the workpiece)
* you MUST let the baseplate touch the workpiece before starting to cut
* blind cut: leave the sawblade in the cut until it has stopped
* through cut: make sure the blade has stopped moving before putting the saw back on the table
* you MUST make sure the blade path is free and you won't cut into the table or similar
* you MUST make sure the blade is long enough so that it can reach through the material when fully retracted (too short a blade relative to the material being cut will cause dangerous kickback)
* you MUST make sure there are no obstacles such as nails in your path before starting a cut
* you MUST secure the workpiece with [[clamps]] so nothing shifts and nothing large falls down once the cut is made
|-
| generates dust and small chips ||
* you MUST wear [[goggles]]
* you SHOULD hook up the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] (and deactivate the "dust blow" function of the saw, if available)
* if your workpiece is contaminated with chemicals or made from hard woods like beech ''(Buche)'' or oak ''(Eiche)'', you SHOULD use a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]]
|-
| generates noise ||
* you MUST wear [[Ear Defenders|ear defenders]]
|-
|
the blade can get very hot
* remains hot for a while after using
|| when you see smoke, immediately stop and inspect the saw - the blade might be dull or jammed in the workpiece. Also do not stay in the same place for too long!
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_sudden_start.svg|left|50px]] no prevention of turning on after loss & restoration of power (''keine Anlaufsicherung'') ||
* you MUST make sure the locking button is "off" before plugging the saw in (the trigger should move freely)
|}

== Demonstration ==
During the introduction, the tutor will show you the following:
* inserting/removing saw blades
* choosing and changing the pendulum or orbital action settings (Bosch PFZ 700 PE: chapter 7 in the manual)

Besides these safety notes, you should know which type of blade is suitable for the material you want to cut!

[[Category:Introductions]]

Grill

2026-05-06T23:07:38Z

Lukas: /* Weber Genesis E-320 LP Copper */ regulator

== Weber Genesis E-320 LP Copper ==
* model number 6522001
* [https://digital-assets.weber.com/documents/56508.pdf?fm=pdf manual]
* [https://digital-assets.weber.com/documents/56432.pdf?fm=pdf instructions for regulator hose replacement]
* difficulty: US hose and thread sizes require special parts
** regulator: [https://www.amazon.com/ORIGPARTS-Regulator-Weber-Genesis-Summit/dp/B0CHYF9HQQ type 698]

Grill

2026-05-06T22:56:02Z

Lukas: Created page with "== Weber Genesis E-320 LP Copper == * model number 6522001 * [https://digital-assets.weber.com/documents/56508.pdf?fm=pdf manual] * [https://digital-assets.weber.com/documents/56432.pdf?fm=pdf instructions for regulator hose replacement] * difficulty: US hose and thread sizes require special parts"

Category:3D Printing

2026-05-06T11:45:04Z

Lukas: formatting/headline order

You can learn 3D printing using our [[3D Printers]]! The term "3D printing" is actually quite vague and is used to describe various technologies which are defined by currently [https://techcrunch.com/2016/05/15/how-expiring-patents-are-ushering-in-the-next-generation-of-3d-printing/ expiring patents]. We will list some common ones below as we gather more experience.

If you are new to the subject, this [https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing introductory guide] by 3D Hubs is worth a read! An overview of the parts is given in this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZi3esvQ02w 3D printer anatomy] video.

You may also find our collection of [[3D Printing Ideas|3D printing ideas]] interesting. Did you know one of our printers can [[Multi-Material Printing|print several colors/materials at once]]?

There are two big German speaking communities: [http://3d-druck-community.de/ 3D-Druck-Community] and the [http://forums.reprap.org/index.php?236 German Reprap forum] (many English subforums available, too).

== Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF/FDM) ==
All of our printers work by depositing '''molten''' plastic layer upon layer, a process which is called ''Fused Filament Fabrication'' (FFF) in the open source [http://reprap.org/ RepRap] community or ''Fused Deposition Modelling'' (FDM) in most commercial contexts. We support the idea of open source fabrication and therefore call it FFF in this wiki.

=== Advantages ===

* fast creation of prototypes or finished models
* easy to use (also for inexperienced people)
* simple post processing if any
* various materials possible

=== Limits ===
* '''no printing in the air'''
"Islands" of the model that start without any material contacting it can't be placed since there is nothing to hold onto. In these cases a sacrificial support structure has to be printed first. These structures are also needed when the overhang of a slope becomes too steep (around 45 °C for most materials and machines) or when printing a horizontal bridge. Better cooling and adjustments to speed and flow rate can improve the performance. In the best case support structures can be avoided since they add material cost, print time and can be a real pain to remove depending on the location and settings for the contact layer.
* '''nozzle size determines the maximum achievable resolution'''
:The line width doesn't need to be the exact size of the nozzle since over/under extrusion through speed and flow rate can also influence the line width. The layer height can also be adjusted inside the slicer. Nonetheless, smaller/bigger nozzles extend the range possible and make it easier to harness the advantages such as e.g. stronger parts with a 0.6 mm nozzle.
:Currently, all our printers are equipped with 0.4 mm nozzles.
:* '''anisotropic'''
The model is stronger in the layer direction compared to the connection between the layers. This connection also makes the model not permanently water proof.

== Stereolithography (SLA) ==
None of the current printers in the space work with this technology but some members own such a machine (e.g. [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]]).

They work similar to FFF/FDM printer since they also produce the model layer by layer. In this case the used material is not a thermoplastic but a photosensitive resin that is '''polymerized''' through UV from a high resolution display enabling higher accuracy and the print of finer details. The hardened material is moved with the buildplate from the display so that new resin can fill the gap and create the fresh layer.

=== Advantages ===

* higher accuracy and print resolution
* faster prints possible since a whole layer is printed at the same time
* properties of duroplasts and similar to vulcanized elastomers possible
* isotropic
* waterproof

=== Limits ===

* '''smaller build area/ volume'''

Since there needs to be a high resolution display across the whole print area, the print volumes is generally smaller than FFF/FDM machines, or dramatically more expensive.

* '''no printing in the air'''

"Islands" of the model that start without any material contacting it can't be printed since there is nothing to remove it from the display. In these cases a sacrificial support structure has to be printed first. These structures are also needed when the overhang of a slope becomes too steep (around 45 °C for most materials and machines) or when printing a horizontal bridge. It is best to avoid support structures since they add material cost and can be a real pain to remove depending on the location (be wary of "jumping" parts).

* '''post processing'''

Because a liquid material is used the model needs to be cleaned and cured (UV post processing) to harden the surface. This post processing is, besides the unpleasant smell, the reason why it's not used in the space.

* '''no infill'''

While FFF/FDM can use infill inside solid parts, the liquid could not escape from these cavities so only true solids or hollowed objects can be printed. The later is preferred because too thick of a print can warp and crack and uses a lot of material.

== Recommended Literature ==

* [https://www.3dhubs.com/guides/3d-printing/ 3D printing guide] by 3D Hubs
* [https://www.prusa3d.com/ebook-basics-of-3d-printing-with-josef-prusa/ Basics of 3D printing] by Josef Prusa (ebook)
* [https://www1.onleihe.de/metropolbib/frontend/mediaInfo,0-0-362712300-100-0-0-0-0-0-0-0.html 3D-Druck für alle] by Florian Horsch from Heidelberg
* [https://bambulab.com/de-de/support/academy Bambu Lab Academy] by Bambu Lab

[[Category:CNC]]

Project talk:FDM Injection Molds

2026-05-06T11:40:48Z

Lukas: /* Frame */ Reply

== SLA material ==

you wrote that resins would be too expensive. For example this [https://www.3djake.de/3djake/high-temperature-resin-transparent-schwarz?sai=19100 high temp resin] "only" costs ~50€/kg which is not that much more than 1k of PHA (~34€) while it should withstand 180 °C and produce better/cleaner results. [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]] ([[User talk:LabCrow|talk]]) 10:03, 4 May 2026 (CEST)

:Thanks, the prices seem to be quite volatile? One of my resources recommended Phrozen TR300 and I could only find it for way above 100 €/L at the time, but now I see it for 77 € on [https://schichtwerkstatt.de/3d-druck/resin-fluessigpolymer/282/1l-phrozen-tr300-ultra-high-temp-resin schichtwerkstatt.de].
:My second obstacle of course is access to an SLA printer - would you be willing to give some of my models a try if I supply the resin? [[User:Lukas|Lukas]] ([[User talk:Lukas|talk]]) 13:38, 6 May 2026 (CEST)

== Frame ==

As written in the page for PHA (but not for this project?), there is a need for a stabilizing frame (wood/aluminum). Wouldn't it be possible to produce a suitable aluminum frame with our CNC mill? This would also help with the cooling of the mold compared to wood and reduce the time needed between injections. [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]] ([[User talk:LabCrow|talk]]) 10:05, 4 May 2026 (CEST)

:Yeah, such a frame is planned but so far I've just been testing molds with a large machine vice and clamps. Same effect, a bit more fiddling around, but okay for the beginning ;-)
:Unfortunately the overheating problem I described happens inside the mold, so a "cooling" frame would not really be possible. [[User:Lukas|Lukas]] ([[User talk:Lukas|talk]]) 13:40, 6 May 2026 (CEST)

Project talk:FDM Injection Molds

2026-05-06T11:38:22Z

Lukas: /* SLA material */ Reply

3D Printer Introduction

2026-04-29T23:53:14Z

Lukas: Tutor LabCrow

''(deutsche Version: [[3D-Drucker-Einweisung]] - Änderungen wenn möglich auch dort eintragen!)''

This is the content required for an introduction to our FFF (fused filament fabrication) [[Introduction for::3D Printer]]s - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this Introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Leo|Leo]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Narquadah|Kim]], [[Tutor::User:Ciaran|Ciaran]], [[Tutor::User:Björn|Björn]], [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]], [[Tutor::User:MobiTobi|MobiTobi]], [[Tutor::User:LabCrow|LabCrow]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you are aware of the [[3D Printers#General Usage Guidelines|3D printers' general usage guidelines]] and have read the [http://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2s_en.pdf printers' manual].

== Safety ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
|
[[File:Danger_-_heat.svg|left|50px]] exposed heated parts - may still be hot if the display is already turned off!
* nozzle (over 200 °C)
* print bed (up to 100 °C)
|| do not touch these parts when the printer is or has recently been running
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_hand injury.svg|left|50px]] rapidly moving mechanical parts || do not reach into the print area while in operation!
|-
|
* machine may keep executing its commands after something went wrong
** every move is based on the initial homing ("zero-ing")
** no sensing of obstacles or current position!
||
* closely watch the homing process and the initial layer before leaving the printer alone
* stay within the CoMakingSpace for the duration of your print and occasionally have a look at how it's going
** if you need to leave for a while, pause the print or ask someone to supervise it
** there is no need to sit in front of the machine all the time, just '''do not leave the Space!'''
|-
| when removing support material, small plastic parts can fly everywhere || wear eye protection when removing support material
|}

=== How to Stop ===
Here are your options, depending on how fast you have to be:
* FAST - the printer is crashing/heading for an obstacle/making weird noises/going up in smoke?
** press the "X" button on the control panel (will reset the printer, everything freezes but the fans stay on)
** via the control panel, move up (Z +) so the nozzle gets out of the part that failed
** if you can't identify '''exactly''' what went wrong and how to fix it, talk to a [[tutor]] before attempting the print again

* SLOW - you're not happy with the way your print is turning out?
** via the control panel, select <code>ABORT PRINT</code>
** change the [[:Category:Slicers|print settings]] you think were responsible and try again (best keep the failed part for reference!)
** if there is a removable mistake that isn't critical yet, you could also <code>PAUSE PRINT</code> and try to fix it

== Control Panel ==
Push the dial to enter the menu and as an "Enter" button, turn to scroll through lists of settings - the details about this are found in the [http://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2s_en.pdf printers' manual].

Be aware that changes via the control panel do not have an immediate effect, but a few lines of code may still be executed from the machine's buffer!

== Changing Filament ==
The filament change on our printers is done ''semi'' automatically via the control panel. It usually works quite well but we will demonstrate it as part of the introduction. Before putting in a new spool, make sure you know what type of [[plastic]] it is and what to look out for (e.g. different nozzle temperature, flexibility).

Some materials are currently not printable because they require temperatures our setup won't reach or they would produce noxious fumes. '''Only use the filament provided in the 3D printer farm!'''

== Nozzle size ==
Printers can have different nozzle sizes installed make sure you select the machine profile with the corresponding nozzle size in the slicer.

== Suggested Reading ==
To increase your success rate, you should also read the pages about [[3D Printing|3D printing in general]], [[3D Printer Bed Preparation|bed preparation]], [[filament]] and [[:Category:Slicers|slicing]]. Don't beat yourself up if you still have some failed prints - it happens to very experienced users now and then ;-)

{{Waiting List}}

{{#set:
| checklist_title=3D-Printer
| checklist_symbols=W017
| checklist_symbols=W024
| checklist_link=https://wiki.comakingspace.de/3D_Printer_Introduction
| checklist_before=**Must** remove any debris/leftover prints from bed
| checklist_before=**Should** clean bed (e.g. with isopropanol)
| checklist_during=**Must** observe 1st layer
| checklist_during=**Must not** leave the workshop during the print; check regularly
| checklist_after=**Must** remove filament from extruder (may break off if left)
| checklist_after=**Must** let nozzle cool down before turning off printer
| checklist_after=**Should** turn off slicer PC if not needed
}}

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Introductions]]

P10

2026-04-29T23:51:03Z

Lukas: Redirected page to Prusa i3 MK3S (1)

#redirect[[Prusa i3 MK3S (1)]]

P11

2026-04-29T23:47:49Z

Lukas: Redirected page to Prusa i3 MK3S (2)

#redirect[[Prusa i3 MK3S (2)]]

User:Gurkensaft

2026-04-29T15:47:55Z

Lukas: moved changes attempted on template page

{{UserInfoBox
|real_name= Micha
|image=
|interests= Working with wood, Sports, creativity
|projects= Building a boat
|email= micharees@gmx.de
|website=
|instagram=
|twitter=
|github=
|printables=
|thingiverse=
|telegram=
}}

Hello! This page was automatically created on my first login.

If you wish to contact me, please navigate to [[Special:EmailUser/{{PAGENAME}}]].

''@{{PAGENAME}}: feel free to delete this standard text when you want to properly introduce yourself ;-) We are looking forward to seeing what you're making!''

Template:UserInfoBox

2026-04-29T15:47:16Z

Lukas: Reverted edit by Gurkensaft (talk) to last revision by Lukas

<noinclude>
{{UserInfoBox
|real_name=Maker
|pronouns=any/any
|image=
|expertise=
|interests=[[Projects|everything]]
|projects=
|email=
|website=[https://www.comakingspace.org www.comakingspace.org]
|instagram=comakingspace
|twitter=comakingspace
|github=comakingspace
|printables=
|thingiverse=
|telegram=[[Telegram Group]]
}}
The idea of this [[InfoBoxes|InfoBox]] is to display user information in an organized way. It may remind you of the printouts on our [[Members Wall]] - if not, you should probably head over there and print one for yourself ;-)

Feel free to add some information about yourself and just leave out any entry you don't want to show.

== Documentation ==
To use this template, simply copy this code into your page, add the values, or delete lines you don't want to fill out.

Some lines are "smart", i.e. you only have to enter your Twitter username and a link is created automatically. As always, make good use of the "Show preview" function to make sure it works as you expected.
<pre>
{{UserInfoBox
|real_name=
|pronouns=
|image=
|expertise=
|interests=
|projects=
|email=
|website=
|instagram=
|twitter=
|github=
|printables=
|thingiverse=
|telegram=
}}
</pre>

[[Category:Community]]
</noinclude>

{| class="wikitable" style="float:right; margin-left: 10px; border-style: solid; border-width: 5px; border-color: #00773D"
!colspan="2"|[[Template:UserInfoBox|UserInfoBox]] 
<big>'''Quick Info'''</big>
|-
{{#if: {{{image|}}}|
{{!}}-
!colspan="2"{{!}} [[File:{{{image}}}|frameless|200px]]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{real_name|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Name:
{{!}} {{{real_name}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{pronouns|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Pronouns:
{{!}} {{{pronouns}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{expertise|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Expertise:
{{!}} {{{expertise}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{interests|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Interests:
{{!}} {{{interests}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{projects|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Project(s):
{{!}} {{{projects}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{email|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} eMail:
{{!}} {{{email}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{website|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Website:
{{!}} {{{website}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{instagram|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Instagram:
{{!}} [https://www.instagram.com/{{{instagram}}} {{{instagram}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{twitter|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Twitter:
{{!}} [https://twitter.com/{{{twitter}}} {{{twitter}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{github|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} GitHub:
{{!}} [https://github.com/{{{github}}}/ {{{github}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{printables|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Printables:
{{!}} [https://www.printables.com/@{{{printables}}}/ {{{printables}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{thingiverse|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Thingiverse:
{{!}} [https://www.thingiverse.com/{{{thingiverse}}}/ {{{thingiverse}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{telegram|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Telegram:
{{!}} {{{telegram}}}
|}}
|}
<noinclude>
== Template Parameters ==
<templatedata>
{
"params": {
"image": {
"label": "Your image",
"description": "Feel free to add an image of yourself so that others can recognize you more easily",
"type": "wiki-file-name",
"suggested": true
},
"real_name": {
"label": "Name",
"description": "The name you would like others to use when approaching you",
"example": "Jane",
"type": "string",
"required": true
},
"pronouns": {
"label": "Pronouns",
"description": "The pronouns you would like others to use when approaching you",
"example": "they/them",
"type": "string",
"suggested": true
},
"expertise": {
"label": "Your expertise",
"description": "Is there anything you are particularly good at? Just name it!",
"type": "string",
"suggested": true
},
"interests": {
"label": "Your interests",
"description": "Is there anything you are interested in / want to learn? Just name it!",
"type": "string",
"suggested": true
},
"projects": {
"label": "Your Projects",
"description": "Here you can link any project you have done. Whether it was at the CoMakingSpace or somewhere else, let us know!",
"type": "string"
},
"email": {
"label": "E-Mail",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your e-mail adress to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"website": {
"label": "Website",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your website to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"instagram": {
"label": "Instagram",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your instagram handle to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"twitter": {
"label": "Twitter",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your twitter handle to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"github": {
"label": "GitHub",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your GitHub name to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"printables": {
"label": "Printables",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your Printables nick to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"thingiverse": {
"label": "Thingiverse",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your thingiverse nick to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"telegram": {
"label": "Telegram",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your telegram handle to others here.",
"type": "string"
}
},
"description": "Adds an InfoBox to display user information in an organized way. It may remind you of the printouts on our Members Wall - if not, you should probably head over there and print one for yourself ;-)",
"paramOrder": [
"real_name",
"pronouns",
"image",
"expertise",
"interests",
"projects",
"email",
"website",
"instagram",
"twitter",
"github",
"printables",
"thingiverse",
"telegram"
]
}
</templatedata>
</noinclude>

Sliding Table Saw Introduction

2026-04-24T06:29:13Z

Lukas: Tutor Björn

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Sliding Table Saw]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:LeoF|LeoF]], [[Tutor::User:Nibuzz|Nils]], [[Tutor::User:Björn|Björn]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's [[Sliding Table Saw|wiki page]] and manual.

==Safety==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - no gloves.svg|50px]]

A [[Dust Masks|dust mask]] may also be necessary depending on the material you are cutting!

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Dangers!!Precautions
|-
| sharp and rotating exposed blade, with chances of flesh wounds and missing limbs
*will keep spinning for a bit after turning the power off!
||
*your hands need to stay well clear (at least 120 mm) of the blade at all times
**use a [[Push Sticks|push stick]] or [[Fritz & Franz]] if you have something ''small'' to cut (below 240 mm width)!
**use Fritz & Franz and use the low edge of the parallel fence if you have something ''very small'' to cut (below 30 mm width)!
*do not use the sliding table saw when you are alone in the Space, you might need another Maker to call help in case of an accident
**make yourself familiar with [[Amputate Bags|amputate bags]] for the worst case
*height of the blade: make an informed decision
**high blade: cuts "down", not pushing against you - makes the saw easier to use and leads to less of a difference between cut distances on top and bottom BUT it exposes a lot of the dangerous blade
**low blade: lower risk of serious injury (could cut into your finger, not as easily ''trough'' it) but you have to push the workpiece harder
*use the top blade guard whenever it is not hindering your cut - it should be fixed so its bottom edge is horizontal and just above the workpiece
*avoid draw in danger by not wearing loose clothes, dangling jewellery or open long hair
|-
|kickback - if the workpiece is pressed against the blade's side, it can be thrown towards the operator!
*check out [https://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4?t=150 this video on YouTube] to see what that looks like
||
[[File:Sliding table plus fence - wrong.png|thumb|150px|right|DO NOT use sliding table + parallel fence at once!]]
*never constrain the workpiece in more than one direction during the cut - use fixtures on the sliding table OR the parallel fence (alternatively: parallel fence pulled out far enough that it '''ends before the blade''')
** lock the sliding table in place when you do want to use the parallel fence as your guide
[[File:Sliding table, fence pulled back.png|thumb|150px|right|you may pull the parallel fence all the way back so it ends before the blade]]
*never remove the riving knife ("splitter") and check its alignment before every use of the saw
**needs to be exactly in line with the saw blade
**distance to the teeth should be about 5 mm along the entire edge
*never cut without a stable fence/jig
** use the [[Edging Shoes|edging shoes]] to hold thick or warped boards that [[Fritz & Franz]] would not hold securely
*make sure the parallel fence is in fact parallel or angled ever so slightly ''away'' from the blade
*do not cut several pieces on top of each other!
*pull the parallel fence out when cutting solid wood ''(Massivholz)'' - that way, there is room for tensions to be released after the cut (second half of the blade should stand "free") [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhnIqY3Fqqg&t=1m35s]
*stand on the side of the machine where you can support the main part of your workpiece (usually the left)
*give the saw time to start up before touching the blade with your workpiece!
* warn others that may stand in the "flight path" behind the machine and ask them to move somewhere else while you are cutting
|-
|sawdust and small splinters can fly towards the operator||
*wear [[goggles]]
*use the [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]] and - whenever possible - the top blade guard (sucks up dust as well!)
*wear a [[Dust Masks|dust mask]] depending on the material you are cutting
|}

==Suggested Reading==
*[https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/060-arbeiten-an-formatkreissaegemaschinen BGHM: Arbeitsschutz kompakt - Arbeiten an Formatkreissägemaschinen (DE)]

==Demonstration==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
*show & explain the nearest [[Amputate Bag|amputate bag]]
*check connection to the dust extraction
*how to use "[[Fritz & Franz]]" and [[Edging Shoes]]
*how to set up the stop on the crosscut fence
*how to set up the parallel fence
** always has to end in front of the blade when fixing a board on the sliding table, e.g. with Fritz & Franz!
*how to lock the sliding table in place when you want to use the parallel fence in an extended position (or after you are done using the saw)
*how to adjust blade height and angle (if angle is changed: return to '''exactly''' 90° by means of a [[square]] or [[inclinometer]]!)
*how to turn on the machine
*how to use the emergency stops
*perform practice cut(s)
*how to clean the machine after your work is done

{{Waiting List}}
[[Category:Introductions]]

Elektra Beckum PK 255

2026-04-22T23:38:05Z

Lukas: /* Fences & Jigs */ sliding table disassembled

==Elektra Beckum PK 255==

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Elektra Beckum PK 255
|german=Tischkreissäge
|image=Elektra Beckum PK 255.jpg
|synonyms=sawbench, bench saw; DE: Tischkreissäge, TKS, Baukreissäge, Baustellenkreissäge, stationäre Kreissäge; ''nearly identical: Metabo PK 255''
|type=Table Saw
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=[[wood]]
|used with=[[Push Sticks|push sticks]], [[Circular Saw Blades|circular saw blades]], [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]], [[inclinometer]], '''[[Table Saw Jigs|table saw jigs]]'''
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46190/Elektra-Beckum-Topline-Pk-255.html manualslib.com]
|assetid=18|similar=[[Handheld Circular Saw|handheld circular saw]], [[Chop Saw|chop saw]]
|status=working
}}

=== Dust Extraction ===
Hook up the [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]] every time you use the saw, and use the top blade guard whenever possible (it would get in the way when making hidden cuts or using the [[#Crosscut Sled|crosscut sled]], but is useful in all other cases)!

=== Saw Blades ===
This machine uses [[Circular Saw Blades|circular saw blades]] with 250 mm OD/30 mm ID. Since 2022, we are using a 60-tooth "universal" blade by Freud. [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/260]

You'll need a large wrench for the arbor nut: it should be in the compartment on the right.

You can cut up to [[MaxSawCutDepthMillimeters::80]] mm thick workpieces on this saw.

=== Maintenance ===
The blade should be sharpened or replaced when it becomes dull, otherwise using it is very dangerous! Tell a [[manager]] or [[tutor]] if you are noticing any problems, e.g. increased force required to push your workpieces or poor quality cuts.

Decreased cutting ability can also result from dirt buildup - here are some [[Circular Saw Blades#Cleaning|cleaning tips]].

''Additional maintenance routines are found on page 16 of the [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46190/Elektra-Beckum-Topline-Pk-255.html manual]. For an exploded view and spare parts, see [https://www.wmv-dresden.de/documents/Metabo/PK_255_2_50_WN_PRAEZISIONSKREISSAEGE_124985_METABO__ELEKTRA_BECKUM.pdf wmv-dresden.de]''

=== Accuracy ===
CAUTION: Something in the height adjustment is not spring-balanced - the blade exhibits slightly different inclinations when being brought up than when being brought down. Make sure you [[Inclinometer|measure this angle]] in the same situation every time!

=== Fences & Jigs ===
* parallel fence
* simple miter fence
** for very precise angles, we could build [https://www.instagram.com/p/B4icOVZneAP a jig that holds the miter fence upright] for setting its inclination with an [[inclinometer]]!
* sliding table
** currently disassembled and stored in the [[office]] - please let us know if you miss it!
** for angled crosscuts: used together with the miter fence and/or [[Lever Clamps|lever clamps]]
* [[Talble saw multi jig|multi jig]]
** for mortise and tenon or angle cuts

Additional accessories may be self-made or found on eBay or similar - the exact model is not made anymore.

''Also see [[Table Saw Jigs|"table saw jigs"]]''

==== Crosscut Sled ====
When making repeated or small 90° crosscuts, it is highly recommended to use a [[Table Saw Sled|table saw sled]] instead of the small miter fence.
With this self-made accessory, the table saw can replace the [[Chop Saw|chop saw]] in many cases.

ZJ5116 TB 16

2026-04-22T23:05:44Z

Lukas: /* ZJ5116 TB 16 */ fixed with a limitation

== ZJ5116 TB 16 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=ZJ5116 TB 16
|image=Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16.JPG
|type=Drill Press
|german=Säulenbohrmaschine
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|manual=
|assetid=83}}
'''Caution: after the rack ''(Zahnstange)'' was broken multiple times, we had to [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/424 weld it in place]. DO NOT attempt to rotate the table sideways and always check the disengage the height locking clamp before moving the table up or down!'''

* Drill bit sizes: 1-16mm (neues Futter)
* Transmission: 16 gear (170-3080rpm)
[[File:Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16 Speeds.jpg|left|thumb|Transmission Speeds (green are the correct ones for 50Hz)]]
 
According to the sign on the machine and [http://www.yzyouyi.com/upLoad/youyitools_powertools_catalogue_2014.pdf this document], the machine has the following (relevant) specs:
{| class="wikitable"
!Specification
!Value
|-
|Motor Power
|550 W
|-
|Spindle Travel
|85 mm
|-
|U/min
|170-3080
|-
|Spindle Taper
|MT2
|-
|Table size
|290 mm{{X}}290 mm
|}

=== Speed Chart ===
This chart was specifically created for the speeds that the machine can provide. You can find it taped to the right side of the machine. Not all speeds are used for this chart if you want/ need very precise control you should look up a more detailed table.
[[File:ZJ5116 Chart.jpg|left|600x600px]]

Project:FDM Injection Molds

2026-04-21T14:38:09Z

Lukas: /* Mold Material */

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=3D Printed Plastic Injection Molds
|image=
|status=first steps
|date=spring 2026
|initiator=[[Lukas]]
|team=
|materials=[[PHA]], [[PP]], [[PE]]
|tools=FDM [[3D Printers|3D printers]], "HoliPress" manual injection press
|software=[[OnShape]], [[Tinkercad]]
|cost=
}}
I am experimenting with FDM 3D printed injection molds for [[PP]], [[PE]] and perhaps other plastics and will try to keep track of the progress on this page. Yes, seriously: molds made from thermoplastics to be filled with (other) hot thermoplastics without melting! Although [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:796654 hot glue molds] can be a fun way of teaching the principle as well, this opens up new DIY recycling opportunities.

Please reach out if you have any questions that are not (yet) covered below or would like to try it yourself.

== Mold Material ==
When I first got into the topic I thought I would finally have to go through the trouble and learn SLA printing with some nasty high-performance resins that cost as much as an entry level printer these days, but luckily I found the recently launched [https://www.youtube.com/@futurethingsau "future things" YouTube channel] where FDM printed molds were demonstrated. As a massive bonus, the material used is actually compostable!

The magic ingredient turned out to be [[PHA]] (polyhydroxyalkanoate) which is only sold for 3D printing by a handful of filament suppliers. Hopefully this niche market will expand as more people get to know the stuff!

After battling its notoriously weird warping behavior, the material can be printed on any FDM printer and appears to hold what was promised: due to its relatively high heat deflection temperature, it looks just as on the first day after a couple of injections with molten [[PP]] (160 °C).

''also see [[Material:PHA]]''

== Mold Design ==
''Work in progress''

The first test mold was purchased from [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/printable-moulds Sustainable Design Studio] as a ready-to-print STL so I could quickly get a proof of principle. But of course, that can only be where the journey begins and custom designs are in order!

'''Design aids:'''
* [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/moulds-design3d Sustainable Design Studio: How to Design 3D Printed Molds]
** tutorial for creating a mold in [[Autodesk Fusion]] (largely the same for [[OnShape]])
** covers basic design strategies for FDM and SLA printing
* [https://mold.actionbox.ca/ ActionBox Mold Maker]
** automatic mold generator for models that fit into the fixed 69{{x}}88{{x}}48 mm template
** decent for first feasability tests of other sizes as well (scale down & generate dummy to analyze demoldability etc)
** seems to have problems with highly asymmetric parts/split lines
** exporting costs $$
* [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581 Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD] on Thingiverse
** looks promising, but not maintained for several years
** does NOT work in the Thingiverse customizer, but has to be run in a local OpenSCAD instance to load STL input from your PC
** place the desired STL in the same folder as the SCAD script and change "model filename" to your STL's name without any path (e.g. <code>sample-input.stl</code>)

'''not suitable:'''
* [https://moldmakerai.com/ Mold Maker AI]
** beta version as of 2026-3 - see if you can spot it... [[File:crappy AI injection mold.png|thumb|left|100 px|not every AI deserves the "I"]] 
* [https://moldmaker.vercel.app/ 3D Mold Maker]
** generates mold shells that may be suitable for some casting techniques, but not injection molding

== Results ==
First results were promising, but certainly also left room for improvements.

=== Beginner Mistakes ===
* '''residual heat:''' a mold that is still warm from the previous injection may fail! More top layers should help with this, but make sure you allow for some cooldown time
* '''air release:''' you may only get partial injections due to air pressure building up inside the mold - air gaps need to be surprisingly large, I had success with nearly 2 mm² cross-sections
* '''uneven clamping:''' the injected plastic will try to "open" the mold. Clamping it only in one place, even if it is the center, may not be sufficient (metal "cage" reinforments are planned)

=== Success ===
* no mold release spray was necessary so far
* molds close nicely (sometimes even too tight, see [[#Beginner Mistakes]])

''to be continued (hopefully)''

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Design]]
[[Category:Precious Plastic]]
[[Category:Recycling]]

Project:FDM Injection Molds

2026-04-21T14:37:45Z

Lukas: /* Mold Design */ linked Fusion & OnShape

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=3D Printed Plastic Injection Molds
|image=
|status=first steps
|date=spring 2026
|initiator=[[Lukas]]
|team=
|materials=[[PHA]], [[PP]], [[PE]]
|tools=FDM [[3D Printers|3D printers]], "HoliPress" manual injection press
|software=[[OnShape]], [[Tinkercad]]
|cost=
}}
I am experimenting with FDM 3D printed injection molds for [[PP]], [[PE]] and perhaps other plastics and will try to keep track of the progress on this page. Yes, seriously: molds made from thermoplastics to be filled with (other) hot thermoplastics without melting! Although [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:796654 hot glue molds] can be a fun way of teaching the principle as well, this opens up new DIY recycling opportunities.

Please reach out if you have any questions that are not (yet) covered below or would like to try it yourself.

== Mold Material ==
When I first got into the topic I thought I would finally have to go through the trouble and learn SLA printing with some nasty high-performance resins that cost as much as an entry level printer these days, but luckily I found the recently launched [https://www.youtube.com/@futurethingsau "future things" YouTube channel] where FDM printed molds were demonstrated. As a massive bonus, the material used is actually compostable!

The magic ingredient turned out to be [[PHA]] (polyhydroxyalkanoate) which is only sold for 3D printing by a handful of filament suppliers. Hopefully this niche market will expand as more people get to know the stuff!

After battling its notoriously weird warping behavior, the material can be printed on any FDM printer and appears to hold what was promised: due to its relatively high heat deflection temperature, it looks just as on the first day after a couple of injections with molten [[PP]] (150 °C).

''also see [[Material:PHA]]''

== Mold Design ==
''Work in progress''

The first test mold was purchased from [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/printable-moulds Sustainable Design Studio] as a ready-to-print STL so I could quickly get a proof of principle. But of course, that can only be where the journey begins and custom designs are in order!

'''Design aids:'''
* [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/moulds-design3d Sustainable Design Studio: How to Design 3D Printed Molds]
** tutorial for creating a mold in [[Autodesk Fusion]] (largely the same for [[OnShape]])
** covers basic design strategies for FDM and SLA printing
* [https://mold.actionbox.ca/ ActionBox Mold Maker]
** automatic mold generator for models that fit into the fixed 69{{x}}88{{x}}48 mm template
** decent for first feasability tests of other sizes as well (scale down & generate dummy to analyze demoldability etc)
** seems to have problems with highly asymmetric parts/split lines
** exporting costs $$
* [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581 Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD] on Thingiverse
** looks promising, but not maintained for several years
** does NOT work in the Thingiverse customizer, but has to be run in a local OpenSCAD instance to load STL input from your PC
** place the desired STL in the same folder as the SCAD script and change "model filename" to your STL's name without any path (e.g. <code>sample-input.stl</code>)

'''not suitable:'''
* [https://moldmakerai.com/ Mold Maker AI]
** beta version as of 2026-3 - see if you can spot it... [[File:crappy AI injection mold.png|thumb|left|100 px|not every AI deserves the "I"]] 
* [https://moldmaker.vercel.app/ 3D Mold Maker]
** generates mold shells that may be suitable for some casting techniques, but not injection molding

== Results ==
First results were promising, but certainly also left room for improvements.

=== Beginner Mistakes ===
* '''residual heat:''' a mold that is still warm from the previous injection may fail! More top layers should help with this, but make sure you allow for some cooldown time
* '''air release:''' you may only get partial injections due to air pressure building up inside the mold - air gaps need to be surprisingly large, I had success with nearly 2 mm² cross-sections
* '''uneven clamping:''' the injected plastic will try to "open" the mold. Clamping it only in one place, even if it is the center, may not be sufficient (metal "cage" reinforments are planned)

=== Success ===
* no mold release spray was necessary so far
* molds close nicely (sometimes even too tight, see [[#Beginner Mistakes]])

''to be continued (hopefully)''

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Design]]
[[Category:Precious Plastic]]
[[Category:Recycling]]

Project:FDM Injection Molds

2026-04-21T14:36:18Z

Lukas: /* Results */

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=3D Printed Plastic Injection Molds
|image=
|status=first steps
|date=spring 2026
|initiator=[[Lukas]]
|team=
|materials=[[PHA]], [[PP]], [[PE]]
|tools=FDM [[3D Printers|3D printers]], "HoliPress" manual injection press
|software=[[OnShape]], [[Tinkercad]]
|cost=
}}
I am experimenting with FDM 3D printed injection molds for [[PP]], [[PE]] and perhaps other plastics and will try to keep track of the progress on this page. Yes, seriously: molds made from thermoplastics to be filled with (other) hot thermoplastics without melting! Although [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:796654 hot glue molds] can be a fun way of teaching the principle as well, this opens up new DIY recycling opportunities.

Please reach out if you have any questions that are not (yet) covered below or would like to try it yourself.

== Mold Material ==
When I first got into the topic I thought I would finally have to go through the trouble and learn SLA printing with some nasty high-performance resins that cost as much as an entry level printer these days, but luckily I found the recently launched [https://www.youtube.com/@futurethingsau "future things" YouTube channel] where FDM printed molds were demonstrated. As a massive bonus, the material used is actually compostable!

The magic ingredient turned out to be [[PHA]] (polyhydroxyalkanoate) which is only sold for 3D printing by a handful of filament suppliers. Hopefully this niche market will expand as more people get to know the stuff!

After battling its notoriously weird warping behavior, the material can be printed on any FDM printer and appears to hold what was promised: due to its relatively high heat deflection temperature, it looks just as on the first day after a couple of injections with molten [[PP]] (150 °C).

''also see [[Material:PHA]]''

== Mold Design ==
''Work in progress''

The first test mold was purchased from [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/printable-moulds Sustainable Design Studio] as a ready-to-print STL so I could quickly get a proof of principle. But of course, that can only be where the journey begins and custom designs are in order!

'''Design aids:'''
* [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/moulds-design3d Sustainable Design Studio: How to Design 3D Printed Molds]
** tutorial for creating a mold in Autodesk Fusion
** covers basic design strategies FDM and SLA printing
* [https://mold.actionbox.ca/ ActionBox Mold Maker]
** automatic mold generator for models that fit into the fixed 69{{x}}88{{x}}48 mm template
** decent for first feasability tests of other sizes as well (scale down & generate dummy to analyze demoldability etc)
** seems to have problems with highly asymmetric parts/split lines
** exporting costs $$
* [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581 Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD] on Thingiverse
** looks promising, but not maintained for several years
** does NOT work in the Thingiverse customizer, but has to be run in a local OpenSCAD instance to load STL input from your PC
** place the desired STL in the same folder as the SCAD script and change "model filename" to your STL's name without any path (e.g. <code>sample-input.stl</code>)

'''not suitable:'''
* [https://moldmakerai.com/ Mold Maker AI]
** beta version as of 2026-3 - see if you can spot it... [[File:crappy AI injection mold.png|thumb|left|100 px|not every AI deserves the "I"]] 
* [https://moldmaker.vercel.app/ 3D Mold Maker]
** generates mold shells that may be suitable for some casting techniques, but not injection molding

== Results ==
First results were promising, but certainly also left room for improvements.

=== Beginner Mistakes ===
* '''residual heat:''' a mold that is still warm from the previous injection may fail! More top layers should help with this, but make sure you allow for some cooldown time
* '''air release:''' you may only get partial injections due to air pressure building up inside the mold - air gaps need to be surprisingly large, I had success with nearly 2 mm² cross-sections
* '''uneven clamping:''' the injected plastic will try to "open" the mold. Clamping it only in one place, even if it is the center, may not be sufficient (metal "cage" reinforments are planned)

=== Success ===
* no mold release spray was necessary so far
* molds close nicely (sometimes even too tight, see [[#Beginner Mistakes]])

''to be continued (hopefully)''

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Design]]
[[Category:Precious Plastic]]
[[Category:Recycling]]

Sanding Discs

2026-04-16T22:25:21Z

Lukas:

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Sanding Discs
|german=Schleifscheiben
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Schleifscheiben, Schleifblätter, Schleifgitter
|type=power [[sanding]] medium
|access=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=[[wood]], [[metal]]
|used with=[[Eccentric Sanders|eccentric sanders]], [[Disc Sander|disc sander]], [[Belt and Disc Sander|belt and disc sander]]
|similar=[[Sanding Belts|sanding belts]], [[sandpaper]]
}}
Typical sanding disc sizes are 120 or 150 mm. We are not currently keeping them in stock so you should '''be prepared to bring your own.'''

If you plan to remove paint, make sure to use special discs that don't clog as easily (usually with a white coating)! A [[spatula]] or a [[plane]] is usually more appropriate for this kind of work, though.

== Dust Extraction Holes ==
Make sure the disc matches the machine not only in diameter, but also hole placement!

Multi-hole discs like [https://www.bauhaus.info/schleifteller/bosch-expert-schleifpapier-set-c470/p/28672863 "Bosch Expert Schleifpapier"] which is usually available at Bauhaus fit most machines.

Mesh discs can be used on any machine hole pattern! Please share your experience if you have tested a brand or two.

[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Sanding]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Sanding Discs

2026-04-16T22:24:27Z

Lukas: Synonyms

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Sanding Discs
|german=Schleifscheiben, Schleifblätter, Schleifgitter
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Schleifscheiben
|type=power [[sanding]] medium
|access=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=[[wood]], [[metal]]
|used with=[[Eccentric Sanders|eccentric sanders]], [[Disc Sander|disc sander]], [[Belt and Disc Sander|belt and disc sander]]
|similar=[[Sanding Belts|sanding belts]], [[sandpaper]]
}}
Typical sanding disc sizes are 120 or 150 mm. We are not currently keeping them in stock so you should '''be prepared to bring your own.'''

If you plan to remove paint, make sure to use special discs that don't clog as easily (usually with a white coating)! A [[spatula]] or a [[plane]] is usually more appropriate for this kind of work, though.

== Dust Extraction Holes ==
Make sure the disc matches the machine not only in diameter, but also hole placement!

Multi-hole discs like [https://www.bauhaus.info/schleifteller/bosch-expert-schleifpapier-set-c470/p/28672863 "Bosch Expert Schleifpapier"] which is usually available at Bauhaus fit most machines.

Mesh discs can be used on any machine hole pattern! Please share your experience if you have tested a brand or two.

[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Sanding]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Sanding Discs

2026-04-16T22:22:17Z

Lukas: /* Dust Extraction Holes */

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Sanding Discs
|german=Schleifscheiben
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Schleifscheiben
|type=power [[sanding]] medium
|access=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=[[wood]], [[metal]]
|used with=[[Eccentric Sanders|eccentric sanders]], [[Disc Sander|disc sander]], [[Belt and Disc Sander|belt and disc sander]]
|similar=[[Sanding Belts|sanding belts]], [[sandpaper]]
}}
Typical sanding disc sizes are 120 or 150 mm. We are not currently keeping them in stock so you should '''be prepared to bring your own.'''

If you plan to remove paint, make sure to use special discs that don't clog as easily (usually with a white coating)! A [[spatula]] or a [[plane]] is usually more appropriate for this kind of work, though.

== Dust Extraction Holes ==
Make sure the disc matches the machine not only in diameter, but also hole placement!

Multi-hole discs like [https://www.bauhaus.info/schleifteller/bosch-expert-schleifpapier-set-c470/p/28672863 "Bosch Expert Schleifpapier"] which is usually available at Bauhaus fit most machines.

Mesh discs can be used on any machine hole pattern! Please share your experience if you have tested a brand or two.

[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Sanding]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

WilTec 65415

2026-04-16T06:56:28Z

Lukas: /* WilTec 65415 */ missing link

==WilTec 65415==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=WilTec 65415
|german=Spindel- und Bandschleifer
|image=Spindle Sander.jpg
|assetid=213
|synonyms=
|manual=[https://service.wiltec.de/manuals/65/65415/EN/65415-doc-en.pdf wiltec.de]
|material=[[Material:Wood|Wood]]
|used with=610{{x}}98 mm [[Sanding Belts|sanding belts]],
115{{x}}51/38/26/19/13 mm [[Sanding Sleeves|sanding sleeves]]
|similar=[[Belt and Disc Sander]]
}}
[[File:Spindle Sander Manual.png|thumb|part numbers from the manual]]
This oscillating spindle and belt sander offers highly versatile sanding options in one compact sanding machine. The 16 mm oscillation height reduces friction and extends the lifespan of sanding sleeves, which makes it suitable for challenging woodworking tasks. Combining an oscillating spindle and a belt sander, this sanding machine allows you to easily sand edges, curves and surfaces. The combination of rotation and vertical oscillation ensures an even finish with minimal effort.

The sanding table tilts up to 45°, which allows you to easily sand beveled edges. The originally included sanding media's grit ''(Körnung)'' is 80.

This machine needs to stay screwed or clamped to a table for safe use!

=== Specs ===
* motor: 500 W, 2000 rpm
* compatible sanding sleeves: height 115 mm
** ⌀ 51 mm (2″)
** ⌀ 38 mm (1.5″)
** ⌀ 26 mm (1″)
** ⌀ 19 mm (0.75″)
** ⌀ 13 mm (0.5″) - without rubber roller

== Spindle Sander Mode ===
Place the fan wheel '''(26)''' with the flat side down on the spindle '''(11).''' Note! Ensure it is firmly in place. You may need to manually rotate the fan wheel '''(26)''' slightly to seat it correctly. Place the desired sanding roller '''(21)''' on the spindle '''(11).''' Attach one of the matching washers '''(24/25/27)''' to the spindle '''(11).''' Hand-tighten the nut '''(23)''' onto the spindle '''(11)''' using the open-end spanner '''(18)''' and firmly holding the sanding roller in place. It is tight enough when you can no longer easily lift the sandpaper sleeve off the roller.

Insert the large bench insert '''(10)''' into the workbench '''(4).''' Insert the appropriate round bench insert '''(22)''' for the sanding roller '''(21)''' into the recess of the large bench insert '''(10).''' The size specifications of the bench insert and the sanding roller MUST match. The sizes of the bench inserts and sanding rollers are indicated under the corresponding storage '''(6)''' on the device.
[[File:Spindle Sander Side1.jpg|thumb|proper assembly for spindle sanding]]

=== Belt Sander Mode ===
The belt run can be corrected using the adjusting screw '''(1)''' or the sanding belt lever '''(2).''' Note! The sanding belt must not be allowed to sand on the workbench '''(4)''' or the bench insert '''(10)''' when the machine is running, otherwise the sanding belt will be damaged.

If the sanding belt moves, it must be minimally adjusted via the adjusting screw '''(1).''' To push the sanding belt upwards, turn the adjusting screw '''(1)''' clockwise. To move it down, turn the adjusting screw '''(1)''' counterclockwise.

If the sanding belt shifts significantly, the position of the sanding belt must be corrected by temporarily loosening the sanding belt lever '''(2)''' and then finely adjusted using the adjusting screw '''(1).'''
[[File:Spindle Sander.jpg|thumb|belt sander mode]]

=== Spare Parts ===
In case we lose any of the bench inserts, [[Finno]] designed 3D printable replacements already: [https://github.com/comakingspace/Parts/tree/main/WilTec%2065415 github.com/comakingspace/Parts]

The spindle washers (parts 27/24/25) are M8 with 17, 22 and 46 mm in outer diameter.

WilTec 65415

2026-04-16T06:55:37Z

Lukas: /* WilTec 65415 */ removed commissioning template

==WilTec 65415==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=WilTec 65415
|german=Spindel- und Bandschleifer
|image=Spindle Sander.jpg
|assetid=213
|synonyms=
|manual=[https://service.wiltec.de/manuals/65/65415/EN/65415-doc-en.pdf wiltec.de]
|material=[[Material:Wood|Wood]]
|used with=610{{x}}98 mm [[Sanding Belts|sanding belts]],
115{{x}}51/38/26/19/13 mm [[Sanding Sleeves|sanding sleeves]]
|similar=Belt and Disc Sander}}
[[File:Spindle Sander Manual.png|thumb|part numbers from the manual]]
This oscillating spindle and belt sander offers highly versatile sanding options in one compact sanding machine. The 16 mm oscillation height reduces friction and extends the lifespan of sanding sleeves, which makes it suitable for challenging woodworking tasks. Combining an oscillating spindle and a belt sander, this sanding machine allows you to easily sand edges, curves and surfaces. The combination of rotation and vertical oscillation ensures an even finish with minimal effort.

The sanding table tilts up to 45°, which allows you to easily sand beveled edges. The originally included sanding media's grit ''(Körnung)'' is 80.

This machine needs to stay screwed or clamped to a table for safe use!

=== Specs ===
* motor: 500 W, 2000 rpm
* compatible sanding sleeves: height 115 mm
** ⌀ 51 mm (2″)
** ⌀ 38 mm (1.5″)
** ⌀ 26 mm (1″)
** ⌀ 19 mm (0.75″)
** ⌀ 13 mm (0.5″) - without rubber roller

== Spindle Sander Mode ===
Place the fan wheel '''(26)''' with the flat side down on the spindle '''(11).''' Note! Ensure it is firmly in place. You may need to manually rotate the fan wheel '''(26)''' slightly to seat it correctly. Place the desired sanding roller '''(21)''' on the spindle '''(11).''' Attach one of the matching washers '''(24/25/27)''' to the spindle '''(11).''' Hand-tighten the nut '''(23)''' onto the spindle '''(11)''' using the open-end spanner '''(18)''' and firmly holding the sanding roller in place. It is tight enough when you can no longer easily lift the sandpaper sleeve off the roller.

Insert the large bench insert '''(10)''' into the workbench '''(4).''' Insert the appropriate round bench insert '''(22)''' for the sanding roller '''(21)''' into the recess of the large bench insert '''(10).''' The size specifications of the bench insert and the sanding roller MUST match. The sizes of the bench inserts and sanding rollers are indicated under the corresponding storage '''(6)''' on the device.
[[File:Spindle Sander Side1.jpg|thumb|proper assembly for spindle sanding]]

=== Belt Sander Mode ===
The belt run can be corrected using the adjusting screw '''(1)''' or the sanding belt lever '''(2).''' Note! The sanding belt must not be allowed to sand on the workbench '''(4)''' or the bench insert '''(10)''' when the machine is running, otherwise the sanding belt will be damaged.

If the sanding belt moves, it must be minimally adjusted via the adjusting screw '''(1).''' To push the sanding belt upwards, turn the adjusting screw '''(1)''' clockwise. To move it down, turn the adjusting screw '''(1)''' counterclockwise.

If the sanding belt shifts significantly, the position of the sanding belt must be corrected by temporarily loosening the sanding belt lever '''(2)''' and then finely adjusted using the adjusting screw '''(1).'''
[[File:Spindle Sander.jpg|thumb|belt sander mode]]

=== Spare Parts ===
In case we lose any of the bench inserts, [[Finno]] designed 3D printable replacements already: [https://github.com/comakingspace/Parts/tree/main/WilTec%2065415 github.com/comakingspace/Parts]

The spindle washers (parts 27/24/25) are M8 with 17, 22 and 46 mm in outer diameter.

Sliding Table Saw Introduction

2026-04-15T18:11:55Z

Lukas: /* Safety */ get others out of the kickback path

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Sliding Table Saw]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:LeoF|LeoF]], [[Tutor::User:Nibuzz|Nils]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's [[Sliding Table Saw|wiki page]] and manual.

==Safety==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - no gloves.svg|50px]]

A [[Dust Masks|dust mask]] may also be necessary depending on the material you are cutting!

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Dangers!!Precautions
|-
| sharp and rotating exposed blade, with chances of flesh wounds and missing limbs
*will keep spinning for a bit after turning the power off!
||
*your hands need to stay well clear (at least 120 mm) of the blade at all times
**use a [[Push Sticks|push stick]] or [[Fritz & Franz]] if you have something ''small'' to cut (below 240 mm width)!
**use Fritz & Franz and use the low edge of the parallel fence if you have something ''very small'' to cut (below 30 mm width)!
*do not use the sliding table saw when you are alone in the Space, you might need another Maker to call help in case of an accident
**make yourself familiar with [[Amputate Bags|amputate bags]] for the worst case
*height of the blade: make an informed decision
**high blade: cuts "down", not pushing against you - makes the saw easier to use and leads to less of a difference between cut distances on top and bottom BUT it exposes a lot of the dangerous blade
**low blade: lower risk of serious injury (could cut into your finger, not as easily ''trough'' it) but you have to push the workpiece harder
*use the top blade guard whenever it is not hindering your cut - it should be fixed so its bottom edge is horizontal and just above the workpiece
*avoid draw in danger by not wearing loose clothes, dangling jewellery or open long hair
|-
|kickback - if the workpiece is pressed against the blade's side, it can be thrown towards the operator!
*check out [https://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4?t=150 this video on YouTube] to see what that looks like
||
[[File:Sliding table plus fence - wrong.png|thumb|150px|right|DO NOT use sliding table + parallel fence at once!]]
*never constrain the workpiece in more than one direction during the cut - use fixtures on the sliding table OR the parallel fence (alternatively: parallel fence pulled out far enough that it '''ends before the blade''')
** lock the sliding table in place when you do want to use the parallel fence as your guide
[[File:Sliding table, fence pulled back.png|thumb|150px|right|you may pull the parallel fence all the way back so it ends before the blade]]
*never remove the riving knife ("splitter") and check its alignment before every use of the saw
**needs to be exactly in line with the saw blade
**distance to the teeth should be about 5 mm along the entire edge
*never cut without a stable fence/jig
** use the [[Edging Shoes|edging shoes]] to hold thick or warped boards that [[Fritz & Franz]] would not hold securely
*make sure the parallel fence is in fact parallel or angled ever so slightly ''away'' from the blade
*do not cut several pieces on top of each other!
*pull the parallel fence out when cutting solid wood ''(Massivholz)'' - that way, there is room for tensions to be released after the cut (second half of the blade should stand "free") [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhnIqY3Fqqg&t=1m35s]
*stand on the side of the machine where you can support the main part of your workpiece (usually the left)
*give the saw time to start up before touching the blade with your workpiece!
* warn others that may stand in the "flight path" behind the machine and ask them to move somewhere else while you are cutting
|-
|sawdust and small splinters can fly towards the operator||
*wear [[goggles]]
*use the [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]] and - whenever possible - the top blade guard (sucks up dust as well!)
*wear a [[Dust Masks|dust mask]] depending on the material you are cutting
|}

==Suggested Reading==
*[https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/060-arbeiten-an-formatkreissaegemaschinen BGHM: Arbeitsschutz kompakt - Arbeiten an Formatkreissägemaschinen (DE)]

==Demonstration==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
*show & explain the nearest [[Amputate Bag|amputate bag]]
*check connection to the dust extraction
*how to use "[[Fritz & Franz]]" and [[Edging Shoes]]
*how to set up the stop on the crosscut fence
*how to set up the parallel fence
** always has to end in front of the blade when fixing a board on the sliding table, e.g. with Fritz & Franz!
*how to lock the sliding table in place when you want to use the parallel fence in an extended position (or after you are done using the saw)
*how to adjust blade height and angle (if angle is changed: return to '''exactly''' 90° by means of a [[square]] or [[inclinometer]]!)
*how to turn on the machine
*how to use the emergency stops
*perform practice cut(s)
*how to clean the machine after your work is done

{{Waiting List}}
[[Category:Introductions]]

File:Businesscard Map Arrowless.svg

2026-04-14T11:40:07Z

Lukas: Lukas uploaded a new version of File:Businesscard Map Arrowless.svg

== Summary ==
''Anfahrtsskizze'' as developed in [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/170 do-something #170]

Also found in our [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/blob/master/Printouts/Businesscards%26Flyers/Businesscard%20Arrowless.svg "CommonFiles" repository]!

Tutor Training

2026-04-14T11:26:24Z

Lukas: added Der_huddel

We are always happy about new [[tutors]] - please let us know if you are interested in becoming "certified" for your favorite tools!

This page attempts to keep track of volunteers waiting for their initial session with a [[manager]].

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! scope="col"| Tutor
! scope="col"| interested in
|-
| [[Anitamareike]]
| Woodturning, Bench Grinder, Chop Saw, Drill, Handheld Sander
|-
| [[Utis]]
| Drill, Metal Lathe, 3D Printer
|-
| [[Lmnl99]]
| Reciprocating Saw, Handheld Circular Saw, Laser Cutter, Heat
|-
| [[Jakob]]
| Table Saw, Handheld Router, Handheld Circular Saw
|-
|[[No.shoes]]
| Chop Saw, Drills, Heat, Soldering Iron
|-
|[[Baumphil]]
|Handheld Sander, Drill, Vertical Bandsaw, [woodworking in general]
|-
|[[Jeddi]]
|3D Printer, Drill, Reciprocating Saw, Handheld Circular Saw, Table Saw
|-
|[[Mobell]]
|Handheld Sander, Chop Saw, Handheld Circular Saw ...
|-
|[[MobiTobi]]
|Laser Cutter
|-
|[[Jaggi2]]
|different Circular Saws, Handheld Sander, ...
|-
|[[User:Deaf|Toan]]
|Jointer-Planer, all Sanders, Handheld Router, Sliding Table Saw, woodworking,
|-
|[[LeoF]]
|Jointer-Planer, Joinery Machine, Chop Saw, Table Saw, Handheld Circular Saw, '''woodworking'''
|-
|[[Schmidt3D]]
|CNC Mill, Angle Grinder
|-
|[[Der huddel]]
|Jointer-Planer, Router Table, Sliding Table Saw
|}

''This overview - if considered useful - can of course be improved A LOT, e.g. by using [[SMW]] properties on all intro pages. Just an info dump at the moment!''

Waiting Lists

2026-04-13T07:34:34Z

Lukas: fixed links

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

''If you want to "wait" for a vehicle spot, see [[Vehicle Workspaces|vehicle workspaces]].''

<big>'''How to Use'''</big> Please '''link''' your [[Special:MyPage|user page]] at the bottom of each list you're interested in after you've filled it with enough information to contact you and/or activated "Allow other users to email me" in your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]]!

DO: link yourself for the introductions you need for your project(s)

DO NOT: link yourself for all available introductions just because you might need it at some point in the future - chances are you'll forget something important by the time you actually use the machine!

If a list is full enough and/or you have been waiting for a while, please reach out to the tool's tutors and kindly ask for a date - maybe they've just been too busy, but it could also be that they missed the list filling up and would appreciate the reminder.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]]==

Tutors:{{#show: 3D Printer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[mobell]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]] (I have quite some experience with my Prusa Mini)
*[[Nikhilesh]] (I have experience with Prussa Mk4 and Bambu Lab X1C at work)

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Arc Welding Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: 45 min + 10 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
*[[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[User:Björn|Björn]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Meyerml|marcel meyer]]
*[[Jakob]]
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]] (no response 2024-6-24)
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]] (no response 2024-6-24)
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Nicolai|Nicolai]]
*[[User:Tom|Thomas Braun]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Heiko|Heiko]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors:
{{#show: Chop Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~30 min

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[LuLeBe|Leander Berg]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[CNC Mill Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Mill Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 to 2 h

Next Date: 2026-2-22, 12:00-14:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Andreas|Andreas R]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
*[[Utis]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[Mamad]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:Erik1000|Erik]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:AndyWinzen|Andreas Winzen]]
*[[Maker-Joe|Jochen]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 h

Next Date: 2026-2-4, 19:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:FabianM|Fabian]]
*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Mamad|Mamad]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 15 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Nora|Nora]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:CaroSam|Caroline]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Pierre 7029|Pierre]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Jnafls|Johannes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

==[[Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: na

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
* [[Martin]]
* [[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
* [[Utis]]
* [[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:Dean|Dean]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Hm.mane|Hm.mane]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Neo|Johannes]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

==[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]==
Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60 min + 15 min per member

Next Date: 2025-7-2, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[Jnafls|Johannnes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Kjubik]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[FSpiri]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser Cutter Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[MaKu]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Metal Lathe Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: 2-3h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
*[[User:BenKenobi|Benedict]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[Didi]]

== [[Sliding Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Sliding Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2026-4-15, 19:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:Pkalbers|Patrick A.]]
*[[User:Mobell|Moritz B.]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom Braun]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[LeoF]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[User:Nibuzz]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]
*[[User:Johanna|Johanna]]
*[[User:MarcW|Marc]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2025-6-18 20:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[FSpiri]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Vertical Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Vertical Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1.5 h

Next Date: 2025-6-25, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response 2024-3 & 2024-11)
*[[User:MarcW|Marc Werther]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[Nicolai]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Woodturning Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 20 min per person

Next Date: 2026-1-28, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Baumphil|baumphil]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response July & Nov 2023)
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:Micha|Micha]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Joey|Joel A.]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

[[Category:Introductions]]

Waiting Lists

2026-04-13T07:31:53Z

Lukas: /* Sliding Table Saw Introduction */ this Wednesday; Björn will send invitations

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

''If you want to "wait" for a vehicle spot, see [[Vehicle Workspaces|vehicle workspaces]].''

<big>'''How to Use'''</big> Please '''link''' your [[Special:MyPage|user page]] at the bottom of each list you're interested in after you've filled it with enough information to contact you and/or activated "Allow other users to email me" in your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]]!

DO: link yourself for the introductions you need for your project(s)

DO NOT: link yourself for all available introductions just because you might need it at some point in the future - chances are you'll forget something important by the time you actually use the machine!

If a list is full enough and/or you have been waiting for a while, please reach out to the tool's tutors and kindly ask for a date - maybe they've just been too busy, but it could also be that they missed the list filling up and would appreciate the reminder.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]]==

Tutors:{{#show: 3D Printer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[mobell]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]] (I have quite some experience with my Prusa Mini)
*[[Nikhilesh]] (I have experience with Prussa Mk4 and Bambu Lab X1C at work)

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Arc Welding Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: 45 min + 10 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
*[[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[User:Björn|Björn]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Meyerml|marcel meyer]]
*[[Jakob]]
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]] (no response 2024-6-24)
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]] (no response 2024-6-24)
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Nicolai|Nicolai]]
*[[User:Tom|Thomas Braun]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Heiko|Heiko]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors:
{{#show: Chop Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~30 min

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[LuLeBe|Leander Berg]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[CNC Mill Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Mill Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 to 2 h

Next Date: 2026-2-22, 12:00-14:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Andreas|Andreas R]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
*[[Utis]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[Mamad]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:Erik1000|Erik]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:AndyWinzen|Andreas Winzen]]
*[[Maker-Joe|Jochen]]
*Thom.76
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 h

Next Date: 2026-2-4, 19:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:FabianM|Fabian]]
*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Mamad|Mamad]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*Thom.76
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 15 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Nora|Nora]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:CaroSam|Caroline]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Pierre 7029|Pierre]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Jnafls|Johannes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*Thom.76
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

==[[Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: na

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
* [[Martin]]
* [[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
* [[Utis]]
* [[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:Dean|Dean]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Hm.mane|Hm.mane]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Neo|Johannes]]
*Thom.76
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

==[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]==
Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60 min + 15 min per member

Next Date: 2025-7-2, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[Jnafls|Johannnes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Kjubik]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[FSpiri]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser Cutter Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[MaKu]]
*Thom.76
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Metal Lathe Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: 2-3h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
*[[User:BenKenobi|Benedict]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[Didi]]

== [[Sliding Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Sliding Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2026-4-15, 19:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:Pkalbers|Patrick A.]]
*[[User:Mobell|Moritz B.]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom Braun]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[LeoF]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[User:Nibuzz]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]
*[[User:Johanna|Johanna]]
*[[User:MarcW|Marc]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2025-6-18 20:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[FSpiri]]
*[[Mi Grnd]]
*Thom.76
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

== [[Vertical Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Vertical Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1.5 h

Next Date: 2025-6-25, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response 2024-3 & 2024-11)
*[[User:MarcW|Marc Werther]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[Nicolai]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Mi Grnd]]
*Thom.76
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Woodturning Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 20 min per person

Next Date: 2026-1-28, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Baumphil|baumphil]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response July & Nov 2023)
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:Micha|Micha]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Joey|Joel A.]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*Thom.76
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

[[Category:Introductions]]

Material:Kraftplex

2026-04-13T07:30:31Z

Lukas: /* Types */ water damage

{{MaterialInfoBox
|material name=Kraftplex
|image=Kraftplex closeup.jpg
|synonyms="Holzblech"
|available=
|donation=
|location=
|tools=[[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]
|used with=
|contains=[[wood]] fibers
|similar=[[MDF]], [[HDF]]; ''soft'' [[Sheet Metal|sheet metal]]
}}
[https://www.kraftplex.com/ Kraftplex] is a glue-free [[Engineered Wood|engineered wood]] ideal for [[Laser Cutting|laser cutting]].

Since it consists of 100 % [[wood]] fibers, it produces less smoke while lasering and is certified safe to use in [[toys]] and other projects for children (DIN EN 71-3). According to the manufacturer, it can replace aluminum sheet metal (same density) and plastics (same electric isolation) in certain use cases.

== Types ==
There are three [https://www.kraftplex.com/kraftplex/wellboard-typen-2/ types of Kraftplex] which may be hard to distinguish at first. If you can not compare them side-by-side, the exact '''thickness''' may tell you what you are holding in your hands:

* '''Kraftplex ST''' ("stiff")
** 1 / 1.5 / 3 mm thickness
** rough screen print surface
** thickness permanently increases by about 10 % after contact with water (single "experiment" so far)

* '''Kraftplex FO''' ("formable")
** 2 mm thickness
** smooth screen print surface
** can be bent like [[Sheet Metal|sheet metal]]

* '''Kraftplex CL''' ("curve/light")
** 0.5 / 0.8 mm thickness
** the most flexible type
** can be cut with [[Shop Scissors|shop scissors]] (but why would you if there is a laser??)

== Sourcing ==
* [https://www.kraftplex.de/ kraftplex.de] (free shipping; observe minimum order amounts)
* [https://www.mr-beam.org/collections/kraftplex Mr Beam Shop] (free shipping)
* ...?

[[Category:Engineered Woods]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Andy

2026-04-02T19:58:22Z

Lukas: Redirected page to User:AndyWinzen

#redirect[[User:AndyWinzen]]

User:Lukas/Werkzeug

2026-04-01T23:40:04Z

Lukas: /* Fräser */ RIP 8er M38 "blaue Hülse"; einige zum Testen an Andy

''"private" Seite mit einigen Werkzeugen aus meiner persönlichen Sammlung - [[Tools to Lend|Ausleihen]] tendenziell möglich, einfach fragen!''

== 3D-Drucker ==
Prusa i3 Acrylic (ähnlich "Anet A8"), soll [https://reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_Hotend Diamond Hotend] bekommen und lief deshalb noch nie...
* 2016: "Rumba"-Boards von reprap.me funktionierten 3x(!) nicht und der Kundenservice wurde bei jeder Reklamation schlechter
* neuer Versuch 2020: [https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B07CT9VMSV/ BIQU Tango] via Amazon
** [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3370956 Tutorial für ähnliches Setup auf Thingiverse]

== Akkuschrauber ==
=== Bosch PSR 960 ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch PSR 960
|image=PSR960.jpg
|location={{£bench}}
|access=ask nicely - may be [[borrowed]] [[Category:Borrowable]]
|manual=in the box
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Lukas|Lukas]] has a Bosch PSR 960 you might be able to [[borrowable|borrow]]! Unfortunately, its battery has gotten pretty bad.

It has six torque settings and only one speed.

::'''Power Supply'''
::There used to be two batteries, but one was quite old and only held its charge for a very short time. It was therefore [[Project:Semi-Cordless Drill|upgraded to a corded pack]].

::Charger for the intact one: "AL 1404", 7.2 to 14.4 V, 400 mA => 3 h charging time for the 1.2 Ah pack

::'''Please do not leave the battery in the charger for more than 3 or 4 hours, the old NiCd batteries will heat up and suffer from quite the memory effect!'''

== Arbeitsschutz ==
* Halbmaske: Dräger X-plore 3500
** Filter "Pure P3 R"; Größe L
* Gehörschutz: ISOtunes Pro 2.0, ca. 2018(?)
** Gummiteile zerbröseln leider -> ToDo 3D-gedruckte Abdeckung!
** Ohrstöpsel können mit Sekundenkleber wieder an ihre Gewinde geklebt werden

== Bits ==
=== graues Set ===
''nicht mehr ganz vollständig, v. a. security Torx; manche im Forum-Set''
{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
|-
! scope="col"| Size
! scope="col"| Screw Symbol
! scope="col"| Screw Type
! scope="col"| Notes
|-
! scope="row"| PH0
| [[File:Screw Head - Phillips.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Phillips
| 2x short
|-
! scope="row"| PH1
| [[File:Screw Head - Phillips.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Phillips
| 3x short, 2x long
|-
! scope="row"| PH2
| [[File:Screw Head - Phillips.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Phillips
| 2x short
|-
! scope="row"| PH3
| [[File:Screw Head - Phillips.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Phillips
| 7x short, 2x long
|-
! scope="row"| PZ0
| [[File:Screw Head - Pozidrive.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Pozidriv
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| PZ1
| [[File:Screw Head - Pozidrive.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Pozidriv
| 4x short
|-
! scope="row"| PZ2
| [[File:Screw Head - Pozidrive.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Pozidriv
| 10x short, 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| PZ3
| [[File:Screw Head - Pozidrive.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Pozidriv
| 2x short, 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| 4 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Slotted.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| slotted
| 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| 4.5 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Slotted.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| slotted
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 5 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Slotted.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| slotted
| 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| 5.5 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Slotted.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| slotted
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 6 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Slotted.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| slotted
| 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| 6.5 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Slotted.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| slotted
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 7 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Slotted.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| slotted
| 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| T8
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| T10
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torx
| 2x short, 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| T15
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torx
| 2x short
|-
! scope="row"| T20
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torx
| 2x short, 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| T25
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torx
| 2x short
|-
! scope="row"| T27
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| T30
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torx
| 2x short, 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| T40
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torx
| 2x short
|-
! scope="row"| T45
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| T8H
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx Tamperproof.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Security Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| T10H
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx Tamperproof.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Security Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| T15H
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx Tamperproof.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Security Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| T25H
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx Tamperproof.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Security Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| T27H
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx Tamperproof.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Security Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| T30H
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx Tamperproof.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Security Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| T35H
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx Tamperproof.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Security Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| T40H
| [[File:Screw Head - Torx Tamperproof.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Security Torx
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 1.5 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 1.59 mm (1/16")
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 1.98 mm (5/64")
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 2.4 mm (3/32")
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 2.5 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 2.8 mm (7/64")
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 3.2 mm (1/8")
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 3.6 mm (9/64")
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 4 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 2x short(?), 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| 4.8 mm (3/16")
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 5 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short, 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| 5.5 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 5.6 mm (7/32")
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 6 mm
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short, 1x long
|-
! scope="row"| 6.4 mm (1/4")
| [[File:Screw Head - Hex Socket.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 1.98 mm (5/64")
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 2 mm
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 2.4 mm (3/32")
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 2.5 mm
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 2.8 mm (7/64")
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 3 mm
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 3.2 mm (1/8")
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 3.6 mm (9/64")
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 4 mm (5/32")
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 2x short
|-
! scope="row"| 5 mm
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 6 mm
| [[File:Pin-in-hex_socket_screw_drive_003.png|frameless|20px|center]]
| security hex socket
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 6
| [[File:Screw Head - Torq-set.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torq-set
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 8
| [[File:Screw Head - Torq-set.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torq-set
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 10
| [[File:Screw Head - Torq-set.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Torq-set
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 1
| [[File:Screw Head - Clutch Type G.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Clutch Type G
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 2
| [[File:Screw Head - Clutch Type G.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Clutch Type G
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 3
| [[File:Screw Head - Clutch Type G.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Clutch Type G
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 0
| [[File:Screw Head - Robertson.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Robertson
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 1
| [[File:Screw Head - Robertson.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Robertson
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 2
| [[File:Screw Head - Robertson.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Robertson
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 3
| [[File:Screw Head - Robertson.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Robertson
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 1
| [[File:Screw Head - Tri-wing.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Tri-wing
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 2
| [[File:Screw Head - Tri-wing.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Tri-wing
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 3
| [[File:Screw Head - Tri-wing.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Tri-wing
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 4
| [[File:Screw Head - Tri-wing.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| Tri-wing
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 4
| [[File:Screw Head - Spanner.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| spanner
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 6
| [[File:Screw Head - Spanner.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| spanner
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 8
| [[File:Screw Head - Spanner.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| spanner
| 1x short
|-
! scope="row"| 10
| [[File:Screw Head - Spanner.svg|frameless|20px|center]]
| spanner
| 1x short
|}

== Bohrer ==
* [[Forstnerbohrer]] "Wave Cutter", Fisch, 1-5/8" ([https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/fisch-forstnerbohrer-inch.html Nr. 316192])
** für Teelicht-Hülsen (z.B. [[Project:Tree Trunk Tealights]])
* [[Holzspiralbohrer]] 3-10 mm (1-mm-Schritte)
* Holzspiralbohrer mit Senker 3/4/5/6 mm (letzterer noch China-"Qualität")
* [[Schlangenbohrer]] 3/4" (für Holdfasts etc.)

* [[Metallspiralbohrer]] 1-10 mm (0,5-mm-Schritte)
* [[Gewindeschneider]] (einfach, M3-4-5-6-8-10-12) mit Metallspiralbohrern in Zwischengrößen (2.5-3.3-4.2-5-6.8-8.5-10.2)
* [[Glasbohrer]] 4 mm

== Bohrmaschinen ==
* ''[[Schlagbohrmaschine|User:Lukas/Impact Drill]]''
* Bohrhammer: Kress 700 PSE + diverse Bohrer/Meißel

== Drechseleisen ==
* [https://www.stabilo-fachmarkt.de/guede-drechselbeitel-drechseleisen-satz-5-tlg/a-914817/ Güde Billig-Set] (öffentlich)
* Schruppröhre 3/4", Narex
* Schalenröhre 1/2" (13 mm), Narex
* Drehröhre "knapp 10 mm" (3/8"?), Crown

== Fräser ==
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! scope="col"| Durchmesser
! scope="col"| Schaft
! scope="col"| Länge (Schneiden/Gesamt)
! scope="col"| Schneiden
! scope="col"| Form
! scope="col"| Material
! scope="col"| Notizen
|-
! scope="row"| 2 mm
| 3,175 mm
|
| 2
| "gerade"
| VHM
| klare Kassette
|-
! scope="row"| 3,175 mm
| 3,175 mm
| 22/38 mm
| 1
| "gerade"
| VHM
| klare Kassette
|-
! scope="row"| 3,175 mm
| 3,175 mm
|
| 2
| "gerade"
| VHM
| klare Kassette
|-
! scope="row"| 4 mm
| 4 mm
| 17/45 mm
| 2
| "gerade"
| VHM
| klare Kassette, 2x
|-
|-
! scope="row"| 1,6 mm
| 6 mm
| 5/59 mm
| 4
| ''gerade''
| ''?? (solide)''
| "16 x 4 x 16 x2 16"
|-
! scope="row"| 2 mm
| 6 mm
| 7/51 mm
| 2
| "gerade"
| M38
| blaue Hülse, Andy 2026-4
|-
! scope="row"| 3 mm
| 6 mm
| 8/52 mm
| 2
| "gerade"
| M38
| blaue Hülse, Andy 2026-4
|-
! scope="row"| 4 mm
| 6 mm
| 11/55 mm
| 2
| "gerade"
| M38
| blaue Hülse, Andy 2026-4
|-
! scope="row"| 6 mm
| 6 mm
| 13/57 mm
| 2
| "gerade"
| M38
| blaue Hülse, Andy 2026-4
|-
! scope="row"| 6 mm
| 6 mm
| 18/50 mm
| 3
| "gerade"
| VHM
| blau/klare Hülse
|-
! scope="row"| 0-10 mm
| 6 mm
| 10/44 mm
| 2
| 60° V-groove
| Hartmetall aufgelötet
| 2x
|-
! scope="row"| 0-8 mm
| 8 mm
| 11/66 mm
| 4
| 45° countersink
| ''?? (solide)''
| "iscar EC-E4L [...] 908B8"; 2x sehr ähnlich
|-
! scope="row"| 8 mm
| 8 mm
| 32/63 mm
| 2
| "gerade"
| ''?? (solide)''
| "Ultra-Tools USA 8.0"
|-
! scope="row"| 8 mm
| 8 mm
| 29/66 mm
| 3
| ''gerade''
| M2Al
| "''hy'' 8x8 M2Al"
|-
! scope="row"| 12.7 mm
| 8 mm
| 25.4/71 mm
| 2
| Bündigfräser (Kugellager an Spitze)
| Hartmetall aufgelötet
| Hikoki Nr. 754109 [https://www.hornbach.de/shop/HM-Buendigfraeser-HiKOKI-12-7x71-mm/8822193/artikel.html von Hornbach]
|-
! scope="row"| 12.7 mm
| 8 mm
| 50/87 mm
| 2
| Bündigfräser (Kugellager an Spitze)
| Hartmetall aufgelötet
| weiße Hülse - günstiger von ebay, nochmal gut nachmessen!
|-
! scope="row"| 16 mm
| 8 mm
| 11/40 mm
| 2
| "Kugel"
| Hartmetall aufgelötet
| Blister; [https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/hohlkehlfraeser.html Nr. 360506]
|}

VHM: Vollhartmetall
M38: wohl etwas besser als HSS
M2Al: kobaltfreier superharter Schnellarbeitsstahl mit Aluminium

== Hobel ==
* DICTUM langer Schlichthobel Nr. 5 (SK4-Eisen)
** Fasenwinkel 25° (allerdings "bevel down": Schnittwinkel 45° unabhängig vom Anschliff)
* JUUMA Flachwinkel-Einhandhobel (T10-Eisen)
** Fasenwinkel 25°, Schnittwinkel 38°
** [https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/pdf/juuma-bevelup-anleitung-de.pdf Anleitung (feinewerkzeuge.de)]
* ''diverse Holzhobel''

== Sägen ==
* Dekupiersägebogen ''(coping saw)'': PEBARO, 17 cm (16,3 cm Pin-Abstand)

=== Japansägen ===
* Dozuki
** Hersteller: juuma
** Blattlänge/''blade length'': 240 mm
** Schnitttiefe/''cutting depth'': 50 mm
** Blattstärke/''blade thickness'': 0.3 mm
** Schränkung/''kerf'': 0.45 mm
** Zahnteilung/''pitch'': 1.4 mm - 18 TPI

* Ryoba
** Hersteller: Bakuma ("SM250W")
** Blattlänge/''blade length'': 250 mm (rip: 218 mm)
** ''irgendwas mit 0.5 und 0.9 +/- 0.05 mm''

* Kataba
** Hersteller: Bakuma
** Blattlänge/''blade length'': 250 mm
** ''irgendwas mit 0.5 und 0.65 +/- 0.05 mm''

* "Haifischsäge" (gröbere Kataba)
** Hersteller: Keil Werkzeugfabrik (Griff selbstgeschnitzt)
*** Modell Nr. 10-2312, Ersatzblatt-Nr. 01-2312
** Blattlänge 300 mm
** 14 TPI

=== Kettensäge ===
''[[User:Lukas/Chainsaw]]''

=== Stichsäge ===
Bosch "1582.7 electronic", 520 W (aka GST 80 PE Professional)
* Typ 0 601 582 703
* T-Schaft
* '''Blattwechsel:''' Pendelhub III einstellen, Schraube (tief im Knauf) lockern, Blatt hochdrücken und 90° drehen, rausziehen --- neues Blatt 90° gedreht einsetzen, 90° drehen, Schraube ''gerade genug'' festziehen
* '''Handbuch:''' ''ähnlich'' [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/19463/Bosch-1584avs.html Bosch 1584AVS (manualslib.com)] // Suche nach Typennummer auf bosch-professional.de ergibt '''[https://www.bosch-professional.com/binary/manualsmedia/o64947v21_1609929S96.pdf GST 80 PE Professional]'''
* '''Reparaturen:'''
** 2024-10: Klemmschraube saß fest, Gewinde komplett zugesetzt - mehrmals neu eingedreht und "nachgeschnitten", Schraubendreher angeschliffen

Sägeblätter:
* Spezialset für Küchenplatten, Craftomat (2x T144DP, 2x T301BCP)
* 1,5x TopCraft Set 10tlg. (Holz bis Edelstahl, zT neu)

== Schleifgeräte ==
=== Schwingschleifer ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=DeWalt DW411
|image=DeWalt DW411.JPG
|used with=[[sandpaper]] - 1/4 sheets (115{{x}}140 mm; 8 holes)
|location=[[Lukas]] - may be [[borrowed]]
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/814089/Dewalt-Dw411.html manualslib.com]
|extrabox=yes
}}
DeWalt DW411 palm sander ''(Faustschleifer)'', received without a dust bag. A [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] adapter should be made before using it inside!

Besides the [[dust]] issue, be aware that...
* there is no protection against accidental start (the button will stay at "1" when the sander is unplugged while running)
* holding the sander near its base gives control for details, but also shakes up your hand a lot more which quickly becomes tiring

May be [[borrowed]] for private use over short periods of time - just ask if you're interested!

=== Tellerschleifer ===
ehemals Drechselbank ([[User:Lukas/Güde 1000]]), Umbau: [[Project:Disc Sander]]

== Schleifsteine ==
* Diamant - mit Wasser benetzen, vertragen nicht viel Druck an Kanten [https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/ezelap-diasharpener.html]
** EZE-LAP 61M (Korn 400, 152{{x}}51 mm)
** EZE-LAP 61F (Korn 600, 152{{x}}51 mm)

== Schraubstöcke ==
* kleiner schwenkbarer (zuhause)
** völlig verrostet gefunden, Anfang 2018 wieder hergerichtet
* großer Tischlerschraubstock an [[Roubo Workbench]]
** [https://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/schraub.html York No. 53ED]
** siehe [[Woodworking Vise]]

== Spaltkeile ==
Vor allem fürs [[Drechseln]] und [[Project:Drying Timber]].

Hilfreich: [http://www.holzwurm-page.de/holz/holz/spaltbarkeit.htm Holzwurm-Page - "Spaltbarkeit von Holz"]

* Dreh-Spaltkeil Bison, Alu, 800 g
* Spaltkeil, geschmiedeter Werkzeugstahl, 2000 g
* 3 kleinere Meißel

== Stechbeitel ==
* 6, 12, 24 mm "Kork"
** Hersteller: Stubai

== Wendeplatten ==
* 10x quadratisch (Maße?)
* 10x rund (Maße?)

* [http://www.holzwerken.net/Wissen/Tipps-Tricks/Werkstatt/Kleine-Plaettchen-mit-viel-Potenzial HolzWerken, "Kleine Plättchen mit viel Potenzial"]

== Winkelschleifer ==
=== King Craft WS 125 ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=King Craft WS 125
|image=King Craft WS-125.jpg
|location={{£}}
|access=ask nicely - may be [[borrowed]] [[Category:Borrowable]]
|tutors=
|manual=
|used with=125 mm [[Grinding Discs|grinding discs]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
'''CAUTION - the "King Craft" grinder has a switch that will stay on until you push it back to the "off" position, so it could surprisingly start when plugged in!'''

{{£}} [[loan]]ed this machine to the Space for about three years until we were able to buy the better ones. It's not great, but may still come in handy if you need it for a few cuts at home - just ask!

This grinder works with '''125 mm [[Abrasive Discs|discs]]'''.

== Sonstiges ==
* Kombinationswinkel: Starrett 33MH-300
* Streichmaß: Veritas "micro adjust wheel marking gauge"
* Black & Decker "Workmate 2000" - deutlich gebraucht gekauft, ohne Accessoires
** gut bebilderte (FR) Anleitung: https://vdocuments.mx/workmate-2000-manual.html
** entrostet & neu lackiert 2020-3
** geplante Upgrades: Tischplatte (original: 90{{x}}49{{x}}2 cm), Bankhaken
* [[HolzWerken]] (mindestens) ab Ausgabe 80
* [[c't Make]] ca. 2015-2021

Material:Wood

2026-04-01T19:23:35Z

Lukas: /* Shaping */ Bending, Kerfing

{{MaterialInfoBox
|material name=Wood
|image=stack of wood.JPG
|synonyms=timber (unprocessed), lumber (boards etc.); DE: Holz, Massivholz
|available=a few [[Scrap Wood|scraps]] of varying kinds & sizes
|donation=
|location=[[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|tools=[[saws]], [[router]], [[Wood Drill Bits|wood drill bits]], [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]], [[CNC Router|CNC router]], [[Pyrography Burner|pyrography burner]], [[planes]], [[rasps]], [[files]], [[sanders]], [[sandpaper]], ...
|contains=mainly cellulose and lignin
|similar=[[Engineered Woods|engineered woods]]
}}
Much like "[[plastic]]" and "[[metal]]", "wood" is a pretty broad term encompassing numerous different materials. Although they share many characteristics and can generally be shaped with the same tools, features like stability, [[#Structure|grain]] and surface finish vary greatly between different kinds of wood.

Besides '''natural woods''' from different tree species that this page focuses on, there are '''[[:Category:Engineered Woods|engineered woods]]''' ''(DE: Holzwerkstoffe)'' with artificially enhanced advantages. Veneers can give such engineered woods the surface look of massive wood at first glance, and cut faces can be made more attractive by gluing on [[Edge Banding|edge banding]].

We usually have some [[Scrap Wood|scraps]] and [[Reclaimed Wood|reclaimed wood]] in store but you should expect to have to bring your own if you need large amounts or a specific variety.

== Sustainability ==
Not only did the term sustainability ''(Nachhaltigkeit)'' originate from forest management [https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainability#Historical_usage_of_environmental_sustainability], one should also try to act responsibly when working with wood as a material. Properly used, it can be one of our best options to stop using more resources than the planet can reproduce.

A few key points to keep in mind:
* '''long life''' - for a negative carbon footprint, the wood from a tree should be in use longer than it took to grow the wood. Best examples are buildings and fine [[furniture]] that may last for generations!
* '''responsible [[#Sourcing|sourcing]]''' - regional, properly managed forests are always better than importing tropical wood. If you absolutely feel you need a certain species, please find a source of plantation wood to stop destructive logging in the rainforests!
* '''minimize waste''' - whenever possible, find a use for the unavoidable [[Scrap Wood|scrap wood]] or share it with other Makers who may be able to make small projects without buying anything new!
* '''[[recycle]] "old" wood''' - unless there are already woodworms at work or the wood received questionable chemical treatments, you may find great raw materials in old furniture that others have thrown away. Check out recycling stores or ask the previous owners for permission if you come across useful bulk trash ''(Sperrmüll)'' at the roadside!

== Structure ==
Wood is an anisotropic material, i.e. its structure changes throughout a piece and with different directions. The reason for that is the '''grain''' ''(DE: Maserung)'', caused by the (more or less) parallel orientation of fibers in a growing tree.

There are also changes in density with '''growth rings''' (in non-tropical wood - denser wood being produced late in the year) and very dense '''knots''' where a branch used to sit.

"Reading" wood grain is an important skill to practice in the [[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]], whether simply recognizing end grain that is bad for [[gluing]] and screwing or [[http://newwoodworker.com/readgrain.html analyzing the less obvious orientation of side grain for cutting operations].

== Varieties ==
The list of woody plant species goes on for a while - here we collect some that have been used for [[woodworking]] in our community.

Wood is often separated into softwoods and hardwoods.

=== Hardwoods ===
Wood from broad-leaved trees ''(DE: Laubbäume)'' - harder due to (more or less) slower growth, therefore also more expensive than softwoods. Fast-growing trees like willows, poplars or birches produce much softer "hardwood" than others.
* beech ''(DE: Buche)''
** commonly used in furniture and as a fuel (for smoking or as charcoal)
** NOT suitable for outdoor projects<ref>[[HolzWerken]] 114</ref>
* oak ''(DE: Eiche)''
** [[Glued Laminated Timber|glued laminated]] posts are available in stores as ''Regalstollen''
* [[User:Lukas|Lukas]] is currently [[Project:Drying Timber|experimenting with drying and processing]] timber of various species

=== Softwoods ===
Wood from coniferous trees ''(DE: Nadelbäume)'' - fast growth, therefore commonly available at low prices with the downside of reduced strength and a much coarser grain. Again, not all softwoods are equally soft!
* spruce ''(DE: Fichte)'' or fir ''(DE: Tanne)'' - often undistinguished and labeled "FI/TA" at the store
** common construction beams

== Marking ==
[[Pencils]] work great on wood, often used together with a [[Squares|square]] to obtain right angles.

Most woods are also easily scratched by a [[Pricking Awl|pricking awl]] or finer cutting tools such as [[Marking Knives|marking knives]]: marking with a little cut ''(Anreißen)'' is the most precise it can get! [https://youtu.be/rP7P6hp5Mxk DE video] An additional advantage of this is the extra guidance you get for the hand [[saw]] or [[chisel]] you are going to use.

== Shaping ==
The most common cutting tools for wood are handheld or powered [[:Category:Saws|saws]]. Using a [[router]] or [[Woodworking Chisels|woodworking chisels]] expands your threedimensional options.

We are also working on establishing CNC techniques such as [[CNC Router|CNC routing]] and [[Laser Cutter|laser cutting]].

=== Sawing ===
As wood is fibrous, ripping it apart with the teeth of a blade can cause unsightly tearout/chipout/''Ausriss''. The splinters will always occur on the side where your blade exits the workpiece. There are a few precautions you can take against this effect though:

* zero clearance boards
** e.g. as insert on a [[Table Saw|table saw]] or little plastic square on a [[jigsaw]]
** leave no room for the wood to "escape" the blade
* [[Adhesive Tape|adhesive tape]] along the cut line
** please let us know which ones work well!
* working from the proper side of your workpiece in case the other one won't be seen anyway

=== Holes and Recesses ===
Use [[Wood Drill Bits|wood drill bits]] for round holes and recesses ''(Vertiefungen)'' and a [[router]] or [[Bevel Edge Chisels|chisels]] for custom shapes, e.g. [[mortises]].

With [[Hole Saws|hole saws]] or a [[jigsaw]] you can cut holes, but not recesses.

=== Chamfering ===
"Breaking" sharp edges by cutting a chamfer ''(Fase)'' can have a great aesthetic effect and may improve your product's handling.

Common tools for chamfering ''(Anfasen)'' include [[planes]], [[rasps]] or [[files]], [[chisels]] and coarse [[sandpaper]]. A [[router]] with an appropriate bit or a [[Bow Sander|bow sander]] help you achieve edges that are rounded over.

=== Bending ===
==== Steam Bending ====
Wood can be forced into a curved shape under exposure to heat and moisture (steam!), but this is something we do not have experimented with so far. Especially beech and birch are suitable for bending. [http://www.holzwerken.net/Wissen/Tipps-Tricks/Tischlern/Warum-laesst-sich-Holz-eigentlich-biegen]

==== Bent Lamination ====
Thin strips of wood are pretty flexible along their grain direction and can be brought into many interesting shapes like spirals or the belly of a boat if you glue them together in the desired position - you'll basically end up with custom bent [[plywood]]!

==== Kerfing ====
Some wood materials can be bent after cutting through everything but the outmost layer in regular intervals with a thick sawblade. The resulting gap (saw kerf) gives room for bending!
Example of a calculator: [https://www.blocklayer.com/kerf-spacing BlockLayer.com]

== Gluing ==
Wood is commonly glued with [[Material:Wood Glue|wood glue]] but other [[adhesives]] may be needed when trying to glue other materials to wood.

== Finishing ==
=== Sanding ===
Common grit sizes for sanding wood are 80, 120, 150 and 220.
Check out this [http://woodworking.formeremortals.net/2016/05/sanding-basics/ sanding basics video tutorial].

You may want to consider [http://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/6/whats-the-purpose-of-raising-the-grain-before-finishing-a-furniture-piece raising the grain] before the last sanding pass if you are going to apply a water-based stain in the end.

=== Polishing ===
Very fine [[sandpaper]] grits and special polishing pads can make wood extremely smooth.

=== Planing ===
Some woodworkers don't use sandpaper at all but produce silky smooth surfaces with nothing but [[Hand Planes|hand planes]]!

=== Oiling/Waxing ===
To preserve or refresh the shine of a polished piece of wood, [[Finishing Oils & Waxes|oil or wax]] can be rubbed into the surface. We do not have a lot of experience with these finishes yet.

=== Burning ===
You can try adding dark accents to your workpiece with a [[Pyrography Burner|pyrography burner]], [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]], hot air or even open flames! Do leave some actual wood behind, not just charcoal ;-)

Intense burning can also be used to shape wood or seal its surface against harmful environment conditions.

== Sourcing ==
=== Buying Rough-Sawn Wood ===

With our [[Jointer-Planer|jointer-planer]], you are able to buy rough-sawn wood from wholesalers, your favorite construction market - or even directly from one of the saw mills in the surrounding area. Depending on ''how'' rough the wood is, you'll have to plan on removing between 2 and 4mm of material per large face and up to 10mm on the smaller faces of the wood - this is due to the sawing marks on the larger faces and on the often non-squarely cut smaller faces. In construction markets, the rough wood tends to be on the lower end of the amount of material to be removed, while wholesalers or mills tend to be on the upper end of material to be removed. So, you should buy your base wood oversized and rather too large than too small.

While construction markets like Bauhaus, Hornbach or Obi usually have fixed prices depending on cut and size and are rather expensive, wholesalers and saw mills price their wood by volume and are often open for negotiation - you usually directly get 3% off when paying immediately, if you ask. Always ask beforehand whether the volume is calculated *before* drying (which is often the case for domestic woods) or *after* drying (which is often the case for imported wood) - this may change the price by up to 15%.

==== Buying Wholesale or at a Saw Mill ====
You should bring a [[yardstick]] and (optionally) a small hand [[plane]].

If you want the best bargain, you should also check whether the wood has been Air Dried (noted by the abbreviation AD) or Kiln Dried (abbreviated by KD) - the former is usually 10-20% cheaper than the latter. Air dried wood has gotten a lot longer time to dry out, which also reduces the internal stress - air-dried wood tends not to warp and rip as much as kiln-dried wood, but both are completely fine to buy.

When choosing woods, it's customary for you to choose the exact pieces you want, which you usually have to buy whole. You usually are allowed to bring a small plane and can ask to plane a small area to check the grain. Also bring a yardstick to determine the sizes, since each piece will have its own size. Should the wood have a split at the end, this piece has to be cut or will continue to rip apart later on. It's okay to ''not'' take that board or negotiate a lower price.

[[File:Wood_ring_direction.png]] ([https://informationsdienst-holz.de/fileadmin/Publikationen/2_Holzbau_Handbuch/R04_T01_F01_Holz_als_konstruktiver_Baustoff.pdf Source])

You should also check the end face and identify the cut - especially if you plan to use the wood outside, where the environment will cause the wood to shrink and expand.

* if the wood grain lies flat, the board tends to warp uniformly and a lot (fig a)
* if the wood grain stands (fig b), the board will not warp
* if the wood grain is diagonally (fig c), the board tends to warp unpredictably, but not as much as in figure a

If you've chosen your boards, an employee of the wholesaler or saw mill will calculate the price, which you usually have to pay now. They usually will shorten the boards roughly with a chainsaw (transport cuts) to fit them in your vehicle.

==== Time and Effort / Cost ====

Depending on the hardness of your wood, you can take off more or less depth in one pass on the jointer or planer. To give you a rough idea: [[User:Lars|Lars]] bought 12 pieces à 1000x300x55mm of rough sawn hardwood from a wholesaler. It took ''2 hours'' to get the 12 pieces flat and square on 3 sides and reduced the width of the boards to 49mm and another ''20 minutes'' to get them to their final thickness of 45mm. Add another ''15 minutes'' for cleanup of the machine. This produced 2 sacks of saw dust.

If the wood would have been a softwood from a construction market, the first part would have taken around 1 hour instead of 2 hours. Still, in contrast to hand planing with a bench plane, it's probably a fifth of the time needed otherwise.

Some saw mills might also joint and plane this for you, which is a service you'll obviously have to pay extra for. Still, in comparison to buying pre-planed and joined hardwood, it's a lot cheaper to do it yourself. ''Remember'': Jointing and planing dulls the knifes of the machine a lot and the saw dust has to be recycled - your member fee does not include those costs, so remember to leave a share.

=== Wood Sources ===
* '''local hardware stores:'''
** [https://www.bauhaus.info/ Bauhaus] in Eppelheimer Straße, ''just down the road from us''
** [https://www.hornbach.de Hornbach] in HD-Wieblingen, ''just across the railroad tracks from us''
** [https://www.obi.de OBI] in HD-Rohrbach Süd

* '''regional specialized stores/contacts:'''
** ''also see HolzWerken magazine's [http://www.holzwerken.net/finder "Holzhändlerliste"] for non-commercial buyers!''
** [http://www.stadler-holz.de/ Stadler Holzhandels GmbH] in HD-Rohrbach Süd
** [http://www.holzundstein.info/ Holz & Stein GaLa-Bau] in Eppelheim (ca. 5 km)
*** especially "green wood" for [[woodturning]] or [[Project:Drying Timber|DIY drying]] - ask nicely and there should be tons of species available!
** [http://holzoberfeld.de/ Holz Oberfeld] in Leimen (not sure if they sell raw wood)
** [http://saegemueller.de/ Sägewerk Müller] in Gaiberg (ca. 9 km)
** [http://www.holz-adrian.de/ Holz Adrian] in Schwetzingen (ca. 14 km)
** [http://www.gschwander-holz.de/ Gschwander Holzhandel] in Heddesheim (ca. 16 km, towards Weinheim)
** [http://holz-bellemann.de/ Bellemann KG] in Wiesloch (ca. 17 km)
** [https://www.baumann-holzhandel.de/ Baumann Holzhandel] in Mannheim (ca. 22 km)
** [https://www.holz-mayer.de/ Holz Mayer] in Neckarbischofsheim (> 40 km) - [[User:Lars|Lars]] has a friend who can recommend it
** [[Mamad]] can get [[Wire Mesh Plywood|wire mesh plywood]] ''(Siebdruckplatte)'' with slight faults very cheaply
** our neighbor Tom (WhatsApp: 01776276947) has cheap sources for...
*** engineered woods ([[Baltic Birch Plywood|baltic birch plywood]], [[Wire Mesh Plywood|wire mesh plywood]], [[MDF]])
*** locally sawn pine, oak, larch, beech, fruit trees... from hobby sawyers
** [https://www.beka-gruppe.de/standorte/heppenheim/ Beka] in Heppenheim
** ''any carpenter shop (might be expensive)''

* '''online:'''
** [http://shop.sperrholzshop.de/ Sperrholzshop]
** [https://www.modulor.de/en/wood/ Modulor]
**[https://www.vlvr.de/collections/holz VLVR] (high quality but often sold out)
** [[Patrick]] once ordered from [https://www.designholz.com/ designholz.com]

=== Paint and Chemicals for Wood ===
* hardware stores (see above)
* [https://www.baufix-online.com/ Baufix] in HD-Rohrbach Süd

== Further Reading ==
* [http://www.wood-database.com/ The Wood Database] with information on pretty much every species you can imagine
** e.g. hardness, shrinkage, identification, project suitability
* DE: [https://www.holzvomfach.de/fachwissen-holz/holz-abc/ ''Holzarten-ABC] vom Fachverband deutscher Holzhändler''
** ''Materialkunde so gut wie aller Holzarten, mit Verarbeitungshinweisen, Austauschhölzern u. v. m.''

[[Category:Elementary Materials]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]
[[Category:Sourcing]]

Laserscript LS6090

2026-04-01T16:37:59Z

Lukas: /* Laserscript LS6090 */

==Laserscript LS6090==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Laserscript LS6090
|german=Laserschneider
|image=Laserscript_LS6090.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Laserschneider, "Lasercutter"
|type=Laser Cutter
|status=working
|location=[[Location::Laser Area]]
|material=[[wood]], [[Material:Glass|glass]], [[Material:Acrylic Glass|acrylic glass]], ... ([[Laser Cutter#Possible Materials (Cutting/Engraving)|list of cuttable & engravable materials]]; [[Laser Cutter#Possible Materials (Engraving Only)|list of only engravable materials]])
|software=[[Lasercut 5.3]]
|assetid=57|manual=printed copy at the machine
|used with=[[Laser Exhaust System|laser exhaust system]], [[Water Chiller|water chiller]]
}}
'''Not usable until the fire extinguisher has been replaced! ([https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/437 do-something #437])'''

===General Information===
* power: 80 Watt
* worktable size: 60x90 cm (length x width), engraving a bit smaller
** Z axis (height): 23 cm
* distributor: HPC Lasers

=== Cost ===
The tube and filters need to be replaced from time to time which will add up to several hundred €.

Therefore, an appropriate user contribution is '''20 ct per minute''' which you should please throw into the obvious cash box immediately or in advance.

=== Machine Control ===
The machine itself is mainly operated by the control panel located on the right side of the machine:

[[File:LS6090 Control 1.JPG|thumb|left]]
====Homing====
When you turn on the machine, please press the "Datum" button in order to Home the machine. This is needed so that the machine knows where the laser is located after a restart. The laser will move to the upper right corner of the machine.

====Moving the Laser====
In order to move the laser to the starting point of your job, please ensure that you are in the main menu and no option is being highlighted. This can be achieved by pressing "ESC" until you see the following:
[[File:LS6090 Control Movement Possible.JPG|thumb|Movements are possible if nothing is highlighted]]

Now you can move the laser by pressing the directional buttons.

'''Jog Speed'''

In case the laser is moving too much or too little with each button press, please go to the jog set menu by using the following key combination: ''Menu --> Down --> Down --> Enter''

In this menu, you can set the jog distance. Please confirm the new distance by pressing Enter.

====Starting the Job====
After uploading your job to the machine (see [[LaserCut_5.3#Uploading_your_Job]] for details), you can start the job by pressing "Start / Pause". The same button will also pause your job in between if needed.

====Setting the Focus====

In order to set the focus of the laser, please put your workpiece on the tray and put the focus finder (little black 3D printed thingy) on top of it. Now, move the laser above the focus finder and move the tray up (by pressing "up") until you can barely slide the focus finder through the gap. The focus is now set to the surface of your workpiece.

=== Troubleshooting ===

==== Laser keeps starting at the same (wrong) position ====
Sometimes, the starting point of the laser cutter gets set to a fixed position by accident.

While we are not yet entirely sure '''how''' this happens, here's how to fix it:

# Make sure the laser cutter is in the following condition (press <code>Esc</code> until the File name gets a grey background):[[File:Laser homing fix.png|none|thumb]]
# Press <code>'''⏎'''</code> so that a new menu opens
# Select "CANCEL LOGIC ORG" and confirm with <code>'''⏎'''</code>
And make sure the checkbox "Immediate" is checked.
[[File:LaserCut Control Panel Immediate.jpg|left|thumb|200x200px|Immediate checkbox]]
 
==== Laser beeps once and does not move after pressing "Start" ====
You have not set any of the layers in [[Lasercut 5.3]] to "On". Go to bed!

Laserscript LS6090

2026-04-01T16:37:37Z

Lukas: /* Laserscript LS6090 */ Not usable, linked issue

==Laserscript LS6090==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Laserscript LS6090
|german=Laserschneider
|image=Laserscript_LS6090.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Laserschneider, "Lasercutter"
|type=Laser Cutter
|status=working
|location=[[Location::Laser Area]]
|material=[[wood]], [[Material:Glass|glass]], [[Material:Acrylic Glass|acrylic glass]], ... ([[Laser Cutter#Possible Materials (Cutting/Engraving)|list of cuttable & engravable materials]]; [[Laser Cutter#Possible Materials (Engraving Only)|list of only engravable materials]])
|software=[[Lasercut 5.3]]
|assetid=57|manual=printed copy at the machine
|used with=[[Laser Exhaust System|laser exhaust system]], [[Water Chiller|water chiller]]
}}
'''Not usable until the fire extinguisher has been replaced! ([https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/437 do-something #437)'''

===General Information===
* power: 80 Watt
* worktable size: 60x90 cm (length x width), engraving a bit smaller
** Z axis (height): 23 cm
* distributor: HPC Lasers

=== Cost ===
The tube and filters need to be replaced from time to time which will add up to several hundred €.

Therefore, an appropriate user contribution is '''20 ct per minute''' which you should please throw into the obvious cash box immediately or in advance.

=== Machine Control ===
The machine itself is mainly operated by the control panel located on the right side of the machine:

[[File:LS6090 Control 1.JPG|thumb|left]]
====Homing====
When you turn on the machine, please press the "Datum" button in order to Home the machine. This is needed so that the machine knows where the laser is located after a restart. The laser will move to the upper right corner of the machine.

====Moving the Laser====
In order to move the laser to the starting point of your job, please ensure that you are in the main menu and no option is being highlighted. This can be achieved by pressing "ESC" until you see the following:
[[File:LS6090 Control Movement Possible.JPG|thumb|Movements are possible if nothing is highlighted]]

Now you can move the laser by pressing the directional buttons.

'''Jog Speed'''

In case the laser is moving too much or too little with each button press, please go to the jog set menu by using the following key combination: ''Menu --> Down --> Down --> Enter''

In this menu, you can set the jog distance. Please confirm the new distance by pressing Enter.

====Starting the Job====
After uploading your job to the machine (see [[LaserCut_5.3#Uploading_your_Job]] for details), you can start the job by pressing "Start / Pause". The same button will also pause your job in between if needed.

====Setting the Focus====

In order to set the focus of the laser, please put your workpiece on the tray and put the focus finder (little black 3D printed thingy) on top of it. Now, move the laser above the focus finder and move the tray up (by pressing "up") until you can barely slide the focus finder through the gap. The focus is now set to the surface of your workpiece.

=== Troubleshooting ===

==== Laser keeps starting at the same (wrong) position ====
Sometimes, the starting point of the laser cutter gets set to a fixed position by accident.

While we are not yet entirely sure '''how''' this happens, here's how to fix it:

# Make sure the laser cutter is in the following condition (press <code>Esc</code> until the File name gets a grey background):[[File:Laser homing fix.png|none|thumb]]
# Press <code>'''⏎'''</code> so that a new menu opens
# Select "CANCEL LOGIC ORG" and confirm with <code>'''⏎'''</code>
And make sure the checkbox "Immediate" is checked.
[[File:LaserCut Control Panel Immediate.jpg|left|thumb|200x200px|Immediate checkbox]]
 
==== Laser beeps once and does not move after pressing "Start" ====
You have not set any of the layers in [[Lasercut 5.3]] to "On". Go to bed!

Laser Cutter Introduction

2026-03-31T04:48:40Z

Lukas: /* Safety */ fire icon

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Laser_Cutter|laser cutter]]- '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Sebastian|Sebastian]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Björn|Björn]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]], [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]], [[Tutor::User:Jaggi2|Jakob S.]], [[Tutor::User:MobiTobi|MobiTobi]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual (available on the Laser PC).

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: no special PPE needed since the enclosure protects you.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| Fumes generated by burning/evaporating your work-piece might be dangerous ||
* Always ensure the exhaust filtering system is turned on before firing the laser.
* Make sure your work-piece can safely be used with a laser cutter (please reference the list of [[Laser_Cutter#Possible Materials (Cutting/Engraving)|possible materials]]
* Make sure you have read the [[Laser Cutter#Forbidden Materials|list of forbidden materials]] (ANYTHING containing halogens like chlorine or fluorine!) may not be placed into the laser cutter at all
* If you notice a strong smell: Turn off the laser and check the filtering system: something may be broken or the filter is full!
|-
| Invisible but powerful IR radiation || luckily contained by the enclosure (laser class 1)
* safety contacts prevent the laser tube from firing if the lid or any relevant side panels are open
|-
| [[File:danger - fire.svg|50px]] Fire can [https://hpclaser.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/laserfire.jpg destroy the machine!] ||
* you MUST closely watch all cutting jobs
* you MUST NOT leave the room when engraving
* clear your workpiece of dirt or loose parts (e.g. partially detached foil on acrylic)
* keep the tray clean - small cutouts from past projects burn easily
* double-check the CO2 fire extinguisher is within reach
* opening the lid and blowing can already be effective in putting out small fires
|-
|}

==Basics of Laser Cutting==
The Tutor will show you:
* content of the '''entire''' [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] wiki page
** especially [[Laser Cutter#Forbidden Materials|'''forbidden materials!''']]

==Operating the Machine==
The tutor will first show you the basic operations at the laser:
* How to '''prepare the laser cutter'''
** to prevent fires, clean the tray under the table when it gets cluttered with little pieces
**turn on the [[Water Chiller|water chiller]] and let it get to temperature (< 20°C)
* How to turn on the laser
* How to move the x and y motors by using the control panel
**Adjust the jog length to move with larger / smaller steps
* How to ensure the focus of the laser is set correctly by moving the table up and down
* How to use the emergency stop
* How to check the safety switches: laser turns off when glass is lifted - important when fire breaks out!
** also useful if you only have one try and want a "dry run" using only the pointer (''that'' laser stays on)

''This should act as a guide, tutors can always emphasize or add points of importance.''

== Workflow ==
The tutor will show you:
* how to create or edit your [[SVG]] file (using [[Inkscape]] or similar programs)
* how to generate a [[Format:DXF|DXF]] file (use DXF R14 if your program supports this) to import into [[LaserCut 5.3]]
* how to move your files to the laser PC using [[File Drop|file drop]]
* introduction to [[LaserCut 5.3]] running on our laser PC
** settings, raster vs. vector, our [[Laser Cutter Material Settings|collection of material related settings]]
** importing settings

* '''software'''
** install [[Inkscape]] or similar software to produce vector files
** install [[LaserCut 5.3]] (Demo version, Windows only)
** download/import settings
** import [[DXF]] file into [[LaserCut 5.3]]
*** set cutting/engraving settings per path
*** simulate toolpath: <code>Laser --> Simulate</code>
*** estimate work time [[File:Estimate Work Time Button.png]]
*** transfer job
*** '''the entire preparation workflow can be found in detail under "[[LaserCut 5.3]]"'''

* '''execution'''
** activate [[Water Chiller|water chiller]]
** activate [[Laser Exhaust System|exhaust system]]
** prepare the machine ([[Laser Cutter#Machine Control|Machine Control]])
** [[Laser_Cutter#Setting_the_Focus|set the focus]]
** when in focus, the red laser '''should''' be on the right spot (If nobody touched it).
*** you may press <code>Laser</code> to check the divergence of the laser and your cutting point to be extra sure if you have a test piece
** you may press <code>Test</code> on the machine to assure that the file fits the measurements of your workpiece: the machine's head will travel around the bounding rectangle of your design
** [[Laser_Cutter#Starting_the_Job|start the job]] either via the Laser PC or on the cutter's display
** observe cutting, watch for irregular fumes or flames - especially if testing new materials
** cutting might not work for the first one or two cm if you have just started the machine for the first time that day - in that case, restart the job briefly at the end
** do not leave the laser cutter unattended (fire hazard)!
*** cutting: stay at the machine the entire time!
*** engraving: stay at least within sight and earshot!

* '''after cutting'''
** switch off LaserCutter & water chiller
** remove parts from table
** clean tray under the table
** [[Shop Vac|vacuum]] the table if necessary
** [[Laser Cutter Material Settings|share your experiences]] with the others :-)
** donate for the machine time!
*** currently '''20 ct per minute'''
** turn off the PC

{{Waiting List}}

[[Category:Introductions]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]
[[Category:Methods]]

Laser Cutter Introduction

2026-03-30T20:46:30Z

Lukas: /* Safety */ stressed fire hazard more clearly, some possible causes

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Laser_Cutter|laser cutter]]- '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Sebastian|Sebastian]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Björn|Björn]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]], [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]], [[Tutor::User:Jaggi2|Jakob S.]], [[Tutor::User:MobiTobi|MobiTobi]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual (available on the Laser PC).

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: no special PPE needed since the enclosure protects you.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| Fumes generated by burning/evaporating your work-piece might be dangerous ||
* Always ensure the exhaust filtering system is turned on before firing the laser.
* Make sure your work-piece can safely be used with a laser cutter (please reference the list of [[Laser_Cutter#Possible Materials (Cutting/Engraving)|possible materials]]
* Make sure you have read the [[Laser Cutter#Forbidden Materials|list of forbidden materials]] (ANYTHING containing halogens like chlorine or fluorine!) may not be placed into the laser cutter at all
* If you notice a strong smell: Turn off the laser and check the filtering system: something may be broken or the filter is full!
|-
| Invisible but powerful IR radiation || luckily contained by the enclosure (laser class 1)
* safety contacts prevent the laser tube from firing if the lid or any relevant side panels are open
|-
| Fire can [https://hpclaser.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/laserfire.jpg destroy the machine!] ||
* you MUST closely watch all cutting jobs
* you MUST NOT leave the room when engraving
* clear your workpiece of dirt or loose parts (e.g. partially detached foil on acrylic)
* keep the tray clean - small cutouts from past projects burn easily
* double-check the CO2 fire extinguisher is within reach
* opening the lid and blowing can already be effective in putting out small fires
|-
|}

==Basics of Laser Cutting==
The Tutor will show you:
* content of the '''entire''' [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] wiki page
** especially [[Laser Cutter#Forbidden Materials|'''forbidden materials!''']]

==Operating the Machine==
The tutor will first show you the basic operations at the laser:
* How to '''prepare the laser cutter'''
** to prevent fires, clean the tray under the table when it gets cluttered with little pieces
**turn on the [[Water Chiller|water chiller]] and let it get to temperature (< 20°C)
* How to turn on the laser
* How to move the x and y motors by using the control panel
**Adjust the jog length to move with larger / smaller steps
* How to ensure the focus of the laser is set correctly by moving the table up and down
* How to use the emergency stop
* How to check the safety switches: laser turns off when glass is lifted - important when fire breaks out!
** also useful if you only have one try and want a "dry run" using only the pointer (''that'' laser stays on)

''This should act as a guide, tutors can always emphasize or add points of importance.''

== Workflow ==
The tutor will show you:
* how to create or edit your [[SVG]] file (using [[Inkscape]] or similar programs)
* how to generate a [[Format:DXF|DXF]] file (use DXF R14 if your program supports this) to import into [[LaserCut 5.3]]
* how to move your files to the laser PC using [[File Drop|file drop]]
* introduction to [[LaserCut 5.3]] running on our laser PC
** settings, raster vs. vector, our [[Laser Cutter Material Settings|collection of material related settings]]
** importing settings

* '''software'''
** install [[Inkscape]] or similar software to produce vector files
** install [[LaserCut 5.3]] (Demo version, Windows only)
** download/import settings
** import [[DXF]] file into [[LaserCut 5.3]]
*** set cutting/engraving settings per path
*** simulate toolpath: <code>Laser --> Simulate</code>
*** estimate work time [[File:Estimate Work Time Button.png]]
*** transfer job
*** '''the entire preparation workflow can be found in detail under "[[LaserCut 5.3]]"'''

* '''execution'''
** activate [[Water Chiller|water chiller]]
** activate [[Laser Exhaust System|exhaust system]]
** prepare the machine ([[Laser Cutter#Machine Control|Machine Control]])
** [[Laser_Cutter#Setting_the_Focus|set the focus]]
** when in focus, the red laser '''should''' be on the right spot (If nobody touched it).
*** you may press <code>Laser</code> to check the divergence of the laser and your cutting point to be extra sure if you have a test piece
** you may press <code>Test</code> on the machine to assure that the file fits the measurements of your workpiece: the machine's head will travel around the bounding rectangle of your design
** [[Laser_Cutter#Starting_the_Job|start the job]] either via the Laser PC or on the cutter's display
** observe cutting, watch for irregular fumes or flames - especially if testing new materials
** cutting might not work for the first one or two cm if you have just started the machine for the first time that day - in that case, restart the job briefly at the end
** do not leave the laser cutter unattended (fire hazard)!
*** cutting: stay at the machine the entire time!
*** engraving: stay at least within sight and earshot!

* '''after cutting'''
** switch off LaserCutter & water chiller
** remove parts from table
** clean tray under the table
** [[Shop Vac|vacuum]] the table if necessary
** [[Laser Cutter Material Settings|share your experiences]] with the others :-)
** donate for the machine time!
*** currently '''20 ct per minute'''
** turn off the PC

{{Waiting List}}

[[Category:Introductions]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]
[[Category:Methods]]

Area Patrons

2026-03-29T15:15:49Z

Lukas:

In order to ensure a proper organisation of the different corners of our [[workshops]], there are so called "area patrons". Area patrons take some responsibility over a specific area.

The list of patrons used to be found in our [[Plenum/Meeting_minutes/00_Template#Area_Patron_Update|plenum template]] but the concept has not been developed since 2022 or so.

'''Planned Relaunch 2026:'''
* eRoom - [[Luca]] & [[Erik]]
* common room - [[Neo]] & ??
* wood workshop - ??
* CNC area - ??
* metal workshop - [[AndyWinzen]] & ??

== Ground Rules ==
* Each area should ideally be adopted by two patrons.
* Major issues and any uncertainties should be brought to the attention of a [[manager]].
* Each patron has to activate the "Email This User" feature in the wiki and/or provide alternative contact methods on their [[User Pages|user page]].
* Areas that get adopted will get an [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/blob/master/Printouts/AreaPatron_Template.odt infosheet] with the patron(s). This infosheet contains a QR code to the user page and optionally a picture of each patron.
* Every member has to support patrons in their work.

== Rights: ==
* Can implement a new ordering system.
* Can put out a friendly reminder to people that leave the area unclean (use common sense on when this is needed!)

== Duties: ==
* Be aware of the GitHub [[issues]] relevant for the corner.
* Serve as a contact point for the tools in the adopted area. Host seminars, explain the tools (become a [[tutor]] for some of them) etc.
* Ensure the documentation of the tools in the area is up to date.
* Ensure the tools in the area are properly maintained (in case more material is needed and needs funding by the space, they should talk to a [[manager]])

[[Category:Community]]

Area Patrons

2026-03-29T15:15:14Z

Lukas: relaunch notes

In order to ensure a proper organisation of the different corners of our [[workshops]], there are so called "area patrons". Area patrons take some responsibility over a specific area.

The list of patrons used to be found in our [[Plenum/Meeting_minutes/00_Template#Area_Patron_Update|plenum template]] but the concept has not been developed since 2022 or so.

'''Planned Relaunch 2026:'''
* eRoom - [[Luca]] & [[Erik]]
* common room - [[Neo]] & ??
* wood workshop - ??
* CNC area - ??
* metal workshop - [[AndyW]] & ??

== Ground Rules ==
* Each area should ideally be adopted by two patrons.
* Major issues and any uncertainties should be brought to the attention of a [[manager]].
* Each patron has to activate the "Email This User" feature in the wiki and/or provide alternative contact methods on their [[User Pages|user page]].
* Areas that get adopted will get an [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/blob/master/Printouts/AreaPatron_Template.odt infosheet] with the patron(s). This infosheet contains a QR code to the user page and optionally a picture of each patron.
* Every member has to support patrons in their work.

== Rights: ==
* Can implement a new ordering system.
* Can put out a friendly reminder to people that leave the area unclean (use common sense on when this is needed!)

== Duties: ==
* Be aware of the GitHub [[issues]] relevant for the corner.
* Serve as a contact point for the tools in the adopted area. Host seminars, explain the tools (become a [[tutor]] for some of them) etc.
* Ensure the documentation of the tools in the area is up to date.
* Ensure the tools in the area are properly maintained (in case more material is needed and needs funding by the space, they should talk to a [[manager]])

[[Category:Community]]

Material:PHA

2026-03-27T13:58:46Z

Lukas: sanding

{{MaterialInfoBox
|material name=PHA
|image=
|synonyms=polyhydroxyalkanoates
|available=
|location=
|tools=[[3D Printers|3D printers]]
|used with=
|contains=
|similar=
}}
PHAs (polyhydroxyalkanoates) are biobased polymers found in and consumed by certain microorganisms. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyhydroxyalkanoates]

The material is used as a component and sometimes even single ingredient of bioplastics that are ''actually'' compostable and do not merely disintegrate into smaller and smaller particles. [https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1g90ufx/colorfabb_allpha_compost_test_2024051720241019]

== 3D Printing ==
Some manufacturers sell PHA filament for [[3D Printing|3D printing]] and the user base seems to be split between "great material" and "can't get it to stick on the bed". Reportedly, once the right settings are found to prevent warping/adhesion issues, it has similar properties to more popular [[3D Printing Materials|3D printing materials]] with advantages such as being less brittle than PLA and possessing a relatively high heat deflection temperature (> 120 °C). [https://colorfabb.com/allpha-white]

=== Print Settings ===
''We have not tested this material in the Space so far.''

Unlike many other difficult materials, PHA warps when it cools ''too slow'' after deposition due to crystallization. [https://medium.com/@Jamesroha/3d-printing-pha-filament-on-bambu-lab-the-complete-guide-ccd921d2cdd2] It requires a cold bed and the lowest working nozzle temperature to get it to print! PHA/PLA blends are much more "normal" but lack some of the properties that make PHA interesting in the first place.

Typical adhesion aids like blue painter's tape, Kapton tape, glue sticks or "3DLac" reportedly work fine, but not MagiGoo adhesives as they require heated bed to be activated. [https://medium.com/@Jamesroha/3d-printing-pha-filament-on-bambu-lab-the-complete-guide-ccd921d2cdd2]

[[Lukas]] managed to print ColorFabb allPHA (black) on an Ultimaker2 at 190 °C and allPHA (white) on a Creality CR10S Pro at 200 °C, both on a BuildTak plate with a wide brim, but no additional adhesives.

=== Sources ===
* 100 % PHA: [https://colorfabb.com/filaments/materials/pha-filaments/ colorFabb "allPHA"]
* possibly containing PHA: [https://www.3djake.de/3djake/nicebio 3DJake "niceBIO"]
** upon inquiry, they only stated it was "biodegradeable according to DIN EN ISO 14855" and "not explicitly labeled PHA" while claiming similar technical properties including high heat resistance (approx. 145 °C)

=== Injection Molds ===
The [[YouTube]] channel "[https://www.youtube.com/@futurethingsau future things]" demonstrates the use of FDM printed injection molds made from PHA. If we can recreate this, it would be a great addition to our [[Precious Plastic]] project! [[Lukas]] has [[Project:FDM Injection Molds|started experimenting]] around Feb 2026 and is always open to making it a team project.

Molds will need ''at least'' 30 % infill to withstand the pressure of injected plastic and will probably receive a wooden frame of some sort. Aluminum mold backers are available from a couple of stores (e.g. [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/p/resinmould Sustainable Design Studio]) but cost upwards of 200 €.

== Sanding ==
PHA can be sanded well, leaving the [[sandpaper]] usable (in contrast to [[PP|some other plastics]]): it produces little rubber-like flakes that can easily be brushed off.

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Plastics]]

Material:PP

2026-03-27T13:47:36Z

Lukas: /* Shaping */ sanding not recommended

{{MaterialInfoBox
|material name=Polypropylene
|image=PP packaging.jpg
|synonyms=polypropene; DE: Polypropylen
|available=
|donation=
|location=
|tools=[[Plastic Shredder|plastic shredder]], [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]
|contains=
|similar=
}}
PP is typically found in food boxes (Tupperware etc.) and many kinds of single-use packaging as a transparent or white [[plastic]].

== Shaping ==
[[File:lasering PP containers.jpg|thumb|right|food boxes after [[Laser Cutting|laser cutting]]]] As a thermoplastic, PP can be melted relatively easily, enabling you to penetrate it with a [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]. You should expect some fumes to settle as a milky film, but that can be wiped off afterwards.

[[Fretsaws]] do ’''not''' work well with a typical PP container.

Caution: [[Sanding]] will cost you quite a bit of sandpaper as PP smears the surface...

[[Category:Elementary Materials]]
[[Category:Plastics]]
[[Category:Precious Plastic]]

User:Lukas

2026-03-26T14:16:05Z

Lukas: /* Ongoing */ FDM injection molds

{{UserInfoBox
|image=Lukas at saw.jpg
|expertise=[[management]], [[woodworking]], [[3DP|3D printing]], [[Laser Cutting|laser cutting]], LEGO, education, [[construction]]
|email=lukas [ät] comaking.space
|thingiverse=LokusArts
|github=LukasFreeze
|telegram=@LukasFreeze
}}
Hi, I'm Lukas, one of the CoMakingSpace's founders and [[managers]]. You'll often find me in the Space during the [[Wednesday Making Hours]] :-)

I always knew I liked to build and assemble things, but never thought of myself as very creative until I built my first 3D printer and ''began'' to understand [[CAD]] programs. Many other techniques have gotten my attention since then and I believe that knowing '''how''' to work with a [[Materials|material]] automatically leads to tons of ideas '''what''' to do with it. Therefore, learning and teaching is the main advantage of community workshops like the CoMakingSpace in my eyes (closely followed by all the cool stuff you couldn't afford on your own).

Besides coming up with new ideas, I believe that knowing even just a few basic [[methods]] and tools enables everyone to [[repair]] and [[recycle]] their stuff more efficiently, reducing the amount of waste our modern society likes to generate.

== Projects ==
I especially like combining different materials, [[upcycling]] "waste" and incorporating natural materials into my [[projects]]. A continuous effort of mine is [[Creating Wiki Content|creating content]] and [[:Category:Wiki|structure for this wiki]] to equip other Makers (especially those around Heidelberg) with a good starting point for their own projects, and contributing to [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues solutions in our Space's "issue tracker"].


 
Future projects will likely revolve around constructing the CoMakingSpace and increasing its selection of [[jigs]] and [[Self-Made Tools|self-made tools]] - squeezing in some personal projects now and then:

=== Ongoing ===
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=150 caption="([[Project:Navigation Galleries|navigation gallery]] - click to see project pages)">
File:project-default.png|link=[[Project:FDM Injection Molds]]|3D printed (FDM) injection molds
File:project-default.png|link=[[Projekt:Trinkmarionette]]|''faltbare Trinkmarionette (Partyspiel)''
File:project-default.png|link=[[Project:Türverkleinerung]]|''Verkleinerung einer Massivholztür''
File:carpenter's mallet - Lukas.JPG|link=[[Project:Mallets]]|self-made mallets
File:drying timber variety.JPG|link=[[Project:Drying Timber]]|drying timber
File:project gallery.png|link=[[Project:Navigation Galleries]]|galleries for visual wiki navigation
File:Skibogen v1.2.jpg|link=[[Project:Skibogen]]|''Takedown-Recurvebogen aus alten Ski''
File:CoMS Model 2020-5.png|link=[[Project:CoMS Model]]|3D model of our rooms
File:Disc sander test.JPG|link=[[Project:Disc Sander]]|lathe-powered disc sander
File:Spartan knife holder 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Spartan Holders]]|Spartan hoplite knife & pencil holders
</gallery>

=== Done ===
And here are some of my projects that are (probably) finished:

<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=150 caption="([[Project:Navigation Galleries|navigation gallery]] - click to see project pages)">
File:Flaschenschneider 1st try.jpg|link=[[Project:Flaschenschneider]]|''Flaschenschneider''
File:Flaschenlampe fast fertig.jpg|link=[[Project:Flaschenlampe]]|''Lampe aus zerschnittenen Weinflaschen''
File:Würfelturm used.jpg|link=[[Project:Würfelturm]]|''Würfelturm aus solidem Holz''
File:activity sloth.jpg|link=[[Project:Activity Board]]|activity board
File:Lernturm in Aktion.jpg|link=[[Project:Lernturm]]|''Lerntürme für Kinder (IKEA-Hack)''
File:festival radio battery check.jpg|link=[[Project:Festival Radio]]|turning an old radio into a versatile mobile media player
File:Kreidekreisel.jpg|link=[[Project:Kreidekreisel]]|''Kreidekreisel-"Malmaschine"''
File:Schalltür0.JPG|link=[[Project:Schallschutztüren]]|''Schallschutztüren zur Werkstatt''
File:captive rings 16.jpg|link=[[Project:Captive Ring Turning]]|learning how to turn captive rings on the [[Wood Lathe|wood lathe]]
File:metal rose 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Metal Rose]]|metal rose, completely by hand
File:TBB done.jpg|link=[[Project:Typewriter Bicycle Bell]]|bicycle bell from an old typewriter
File:jar jar shelf 7.JPG|link=[[Project:Jar Jar Shelf]]|shelf for "Odenwald" jars
File:laptop wall mount.jpg|link=[[Project:Laptop Wall Mount]]|laser cut laptop wall mount
File:VHS couch table legs finished.JPG|link=[[Project:VHS Couch Table]]|couch table legs out of old VHS cassettes
File:football scoreboard team alignment.JPG|link=[[Project:Giant Football Scoreboard]]|my brother's giant football scoreboard
File:resized wardrobe drawers 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Resized Wardrobe Drawers]]|resized wardrobe drawers
File:wired 'battery' pack.JPG|link=[[Project:Semi-Cordless Drill]]|"Semi-Cordless Drill" (replacing a cordless drill's old NiCd battery pack with an on-demand power supply)
File:Bierkastentisch cover.jpg|link=[[Project:Bierkastentisch]]|''Bierkastentisch fürs Camping''
File:lumberjack cake stand 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Lumberjack Cake Stand]]|"Lumberjack Championship" inspired wedding cake stand
File:birch tealights 10.JPG|link=[[Project:Tree Trunk Tealights]]|tealight holders out of birch logs
File:wax wrap Vader.JPG|link=[[Project:Beeswax Wrap]]|beeswax wrap to replace cling foil ''(Frischhaltefolie)'' in the kitchen
File:aq-edge working prototype.JPG|link=[[Project:Aquarium Edge Illumination]]|accurately lighting an aquarium for behavioral recordings
File:file handles cover.JPG|link=[[Project:File Handles]]|self-made file handles
File:Schwenkgrill 16.JPG|link=[[Project:Schwenkgrill]]|''klappbarer Schwenkgrill''
File:TAC 00.JPG|link=[[Project:TAC]]|"TAC" boardgame
File:fishcage0.JPG|link=[[Project:Fish Cages]]|floating fish rearing cages
File:Circular saw guide build 5.JPG|link=[[Project:Circular Saw Guide]]|circular saw guide without measuring
File:Roubo workbench 1-24.JPG|link=[[Project:Roubo Workbench]]|"Roubo" style woodworking bench for our [[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
File:sketching lockers.PNG|link=[[Project:Lockers]]|lockers for the Space
File:coming soon.svg|link=[[Project:3D Printed Boardgames]]|various 3D printed boardgames
</gallery>

=== Planned ===
* tons of [[Toys & Games|toys & games]] - often, but not always for the kids
* various other home & garden improvements
* retry [[Project:Schneckchen]] with laser cutting
* "Maker's mark" to brand or emboss my finished pieces
* experiments under the [[Precious Plastic]] umbrella
* [[welding]] more campfire and barbecue equipment
* [https://www.instructables.com/id/Pocket-Froe-a-Pocket-Friendly-Wood-Splitting-Tool/ froe] and three-way wedge for splitting wood
* marking knife, [https://ibuildit.ca/projects/knife-sharpener/ knife sharpener], parting tool & more out of old circular saw blades
* puzzle games like the [https://www.instructables.com/id/NUT-T-Coin-Trap/ "Nut-T Coin Trap"] that could be adjusted for laser cutting
* ...and ''too'' many more...

=== Other "Makes" ===
Here I'll collect some pictures where I didn't write a whole [[Projects|project page]] (yet?), e.g. if it was just my take on someone else's project or it's simple enough to be understood from one photo.
However, if you have any questions I'm always happy to help and could document more!

<gallery heights=100>
File:GutSTEIN + wax.jpg|laser engraved stone "gift card"
File:leftover stool.jpg|a simple stool cut from leftover IKEA pieces from [[Project:Lernturm]]
File:Kohlerost.jpg|charcoal grate [[welded]] from [[rebar]]
File:Kletter-Schlüsselbrett.jpg|key holder for climbing enthusiasts (inspired by [https://www.fujfuj.com/ fujfuj.com])
File:corner guard.jpg|corner guards (simple child's head savers that indestructively clamp on any shelf corner)
File:composting toilet from pallets.JPG|composting toilet built almost entirely from pallet wood and other [[recycled]] materials
File:Laser-Tigerente 5.jpg|laser engraved & waxed [[Tigerente]]
File:wood photo stand.png|simple but decorative holder for a [[Laser Engraving Photos|wooden photo]] out of leftovers from [[Project:TAC|my "TAC" boardgame]]
File:Nudelholz.jpeg|pasta roller for [[Patrick]]
File:Stehschreibtisch.JPG|standing desk upgrade to ''any'' desk (as long as you're tall or the screen is small enough)
File:Besteck-Uhr.jpg|clock from forks and spoons
File:schräge DVD-Regale.jpg|angled DVD shelves to display titles better while avoiding heavy stacks
File:Erdbeersäule2019.JPG|vertical strawberry farm
File:eukalyptus saw handle rough shape.JPG|saw handle out of leftovers from my [[Project:TAC|"TAC" boardgame]] - the naked blade cost me just a few cents
File:countersink wood drill bit holder.jpg|simple pouch to store & transport countersink [[Wood Drill Bits|wood drill bits]]
File:Bierbankrettung Loch zu.JPG|repair: got a "beer table" with a hole in it for next to 0 €, then plugged it with a custom cut piece of fir and sanded it flush after the [[Wood Glue|wood glue]] was dry
File:Birgitts bible covers.JPG|decorative bible covers I helped Birgitt make: [[Laser Cutting|laser engraved]] patterns and "holy" water/soil under [[Acrylic Glass|acrylic glass]]
</gallery>

== "Private" Pages ==
Feel free to read on if you feel like it, but these probably won't be interesting to you - more like notes to myself ;-)

* [[User:Lukas/Bench|''my workbench'']]
* [[User:Lukas/Werkzeug|''some of my tools'']]
* [[User:Lukas/Material|''materials I've kept for future projects'']]


[[Lends Tool::Chainsaw| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Fräser| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Schwingschleifer| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Winkelschleifer| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Impact_Drill| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Pyrography Burner| ]]

Material:PHA

2026-03-26T14:10:33Z

Lukas: /* Injection Molds */ linked project

Material:PHA

2026-03-26T14:09:36Z

Lukas: /* Print Settings */ white needs 200 °C

{{MaterialInfoBox
|material name=PHA
|image=
|synonyms=polyhydroxyalkanoates
|available=
|location=
|tools=[[3D Printers|3D printers]]
|used with=
|contains=
|similar=
}}
PHAs (polyhydroxyalkanoates) are biobased polymers found in and consumed by certain microorganisms. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyhydroxyalkanoates]

The material is used as a component and sometimes even single ingredient of bioplastics that are ''actually'' compostable and do not merely disintegrate into smaller and smaller particles. [https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1g90ufx/colorfabb_allpha_compost_test_2024051720241019]

== 3D Printing ==
Some manufacturers sell PHA filament for [[3D Printing|3D printing]] and the user base seems to be split between "great material" and "can't get it to stick on the bed". Reportedly, once the right settings are found to prevent warping/adhesion issues, it has similar properties to more popular [[3D Printing Materials|3D printing materials]] with advantages such as being less brittle than PLA and possessing a relatively high heat deflection temperature (> 120 °C). [https://colorfabb.com/allpha-white]

=== Print Settings ===
''We have not tested this material in the Space so far.''

Unlike many other difficult materials, PHA warps when it cools ''too slow'' after deposition due to crystallization. [https://medium.com/@Jamesroha/3d-printing-pha-filament-on-bambu-lab-the-complete-guide-ccd921d2cdd2] It requires a cold bed and the lowest working nozzle temperature to get it to print! PHA/PLA blends are much more "normal" but lack some of the properties that make PHA interesting in the first place.

Typical adhesion aids like blue painter's tape, Kapton tape, glue sticks or "3DLac" reportedly work fine, but not MagiGoo adhesives as they require heated bed to be activated. [https://medium.com/@Jamesroha/3d-printing-pha-filament-on-bambu-lab-the-complete-guide-ccd921d2cdd2]

[[Lukas]] managed to print ColorFabb allPHA (black) on an Ultimaker2 at 190 °C and allPHA (white) on a Creality CR10S Pro at 200 °C, both on a BuildTak plate with a wide brim, but no additional adhesives.

=== Sources ===
* 100 % PHA: [https://colorfabb.com/filaments/materials/pha-filaments/ colorFabb "allPHA"]
* possibly containing PHA: [https://www.3djake.de/3djake/nicebio 3DJake "niceBIO"]
** upon inquiry, they only stated it was "biodegradeable according to DIN EN ISO 14855" and "not explicitly labeled PHA" while claiming similar technical properties including high heat resistance (approx. 145 °C)

=== Injection Molds ===
The [[YouTube]] channel "[https://www.youtube.com/@futurethingsau future things]" demonstrates the use of FDM printed injection molds made from PHA. If we can recreate this, it would be a great addition to our [[Precious Plastic]] project! [[Lukas]] will start experimenting around Feb 2026 and is always open to making it a team project.

Molds will need ''at least'' 30 % infill to withstand the pressure of injected plastic and will probably receive a wooden frame of some sort. Aluminum mold backers are available from a couple of stores (e.g. [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/p/resinmould Sustainable Design Studio] but cost upwards of 200 €.

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Plastics]]

Project:FDM Injection Molds

2026-03-24T09:28:03Z

Lukas: /* Mold Design */

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=3D Printed Plastic Injection Molds
|image=
|status=first steps
|date=spring 2026
|initiator=[[Lukas]]
|team=
|materials=[[PHA]], [[PP]], [[PE]]
|tools=FDM [[3D Printers|3D printers]], "HoliPress" manual injection press
|software=[[OnShape]], [[Tinkercad]]
|cost=
}}
I am experimenting with FDM 3D printed injection molds for [[PP]], [[PE]] and perhaps other plastics and will try to keep track of the progress on this page. Yes, seriously: molds made from thermoplastics to be filled with (other) hot thermoplastics without melting! Although [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:796654 hot glue molds] can be a fun way of teaching the principle as well, this opens up new DIY recycling opportunities.

Please reach out if you have any questions that are not (yet) covered below or would like to try it yourself.

== Mold Material ==
When I first got into the topic I thought I would finally have to go through the trouble and learn SLA printing with some nasty high-performance resins that cost as much as an entry level printer these days, but luckily I found the recently launched [https://www.youtube.com/@futurethingsau "future things" YouTube channel] where FDM printed molds were demonstrated. As a massive bonus, the material used is actually compostable!

The magic ingredient turned out to be [[PHA]] (polyhydroxyalkanoate) which is only sold for 3D printing by a handful of filament suppliers. Hopefully this niche market will expand as more people get to know the stuff!

After battling its notoriously weird warping behavior, the material can be printed on any FDM printer and appears to hold what was promised: due to its relatively high heat deflection temperature, it looks just as on the first day after a couple of injections with molten [[PP]] (150 °C).

''also see [[Material:PHA]]''

== Mold Design ==
''Work in progress''

The first test mold was purchased from [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/printable-moulds Sustainable Design Studio] as a ready-to-print STL so I could quickly get a proof of principle. But of course, that can only be where the journey begins and custom designs are in order!

'''Design aids:'''
* [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/moulds-design3d Sustainable Design Studio: How to Design 3D Printed Molds]
** tutorial for creating a mold in Autodesk Fusion
** covers basic design strategies FDM and SLA printing
* [https://mold.actionbox.ca/ ActionBox Mold Maker]
** automatic mold generator for models that fit into the fixed 69{{x}}88{{x}}48 mm template
** decent for first feasability tests of other sizes as well (scale down & generate dummy to analyze demoldability etc)
** seems to have problems with highly asymmetric parts/split lines
** exporting costs $$
* [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581 Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD] on Thingiverse
** looks promising, but not maintained for several years
** does NOT work in the Thingiverse customizer, but has to be run in a local OpenSCAD instance to load STL input from your PC
** place the desired STL in the same folder as the SCAD script and change "model filename" to your STL's name without any path (e.g. <code>sample-input.stl</code>)

'''not suitable:'''
* [https://moldmakerai.com/ Mold Maker AI]
** beta version as of 2026-3 - see if you can spot it... [[File:crappy AI injection mold.png|thumb|left|100 px|not every AI deserves the "I"]] 
* [https://moldmaker.vercel.app/ 3D Mold Maker]
** generates mold shells that may be suitable for some casting techniques, but not injection molding

== Results ==
''yeah, I also wish it was already time for that ;-)''

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Design]]
[[Category:Precious Plastic]]
[[Category:Recycling]]

Project:FDM Injection Molds

2026-03-24T09:27:28Z

Lukas: /* Mold Design */ today's progress

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=3D Printed Plastic Injection Molds
|image=
|status=first steps
|date=spring 2026
|initiator=[[Lukas]]
|team=
|materials=[[PHA]], [[PP]], [[PE]]
|tools=FDM [[3D Printers|3D printers]], "HoliPress" manual injection press
|software=[[OnShape]], [[Tinkercad]]
|cost=
}}
I am experimenting with FDM 3D printed injection molds for [[PP]], [[PE]] and perhaps other plastics and will try to keep track of the progress on this page. Yes, seriously: molds made from thermoplastics to be filled with (other) hot thermoplastics without melting! Although [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:796654 hot glue molds] can be a fun way of teaching the principle as well, this opens up new DIY recycling opportunities.

Please reach out if you have any questions that are not (yet) covered below or would like to try it yourself.

== Mold Material ==
When I first got into the topic I thought I would finally have to go through the trouble and learn SLA printing with some nasty high-performance resins that cost as much as an entry level printer these days, but luckily I found the recently launched [https://www.youtube.com/@futurethingsau "future things" YouTube channel] where FDM printed molds were demonstrated. As a massive bonus, the material used is actually compostable!

The magic ingredient turned out to be [[PHA]] (polyhydroxyalkanoate) which is only sold for 3D printing by a handful of filament suppliers. Hopefully this niche market will expand as more people get to know the stuff!

After battling its notoriously weird warping behavior, the material can be printed on any FDM printer and appears to hold what was promised: due to its relatively high heat deflection temperature, it looks just as on the first day after a couple of injections with molten [[PP]] (150 °C).

''also see [[Material:PHA]]''

== Mold Design ==
''Work in progress''

The first test mold was purchased from [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/printable-moulds Sustainable Design Studio] as a ready-to-print STL so I could quickly get a proof of principle. But of course, that can only be where the journey begins and custom designs are in order!

'''Design aids:'''
* [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/moulds-design3d Sustainable Design Studio: How to Design 3D Printed Molds]
** tutorial for creating a mold in Autodesk Fusion
** covers basic design strategies FDM and SLA printing
* [https://mold.actionbox.ca/ ActionBox Mold Maker]
** automatic mold generator for models that fit into the fixed 69{{x}}88{{x}}48 mm template
** decent for first feasability tests of other sizes as well (scale down & generate dummy to analyze demoldability etc)
** seems to have problems with highly asymmetric parts/split lines
** exporting costs $$
* [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581 Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD] on Thingiverse
** looks promising, but not maintained for several years
** does NOT work in the Thingiverse customizer, but has to be run in a local OpenSCAD instance to load STL input from your PC
** place the desired STL in the same folder as the SCAD script and change "model filename" to your STL's name without any path (e.g. <code>sample-input.stl</code>)

'''not suitable:'''
* [https://moldmakerai.com/ Mold Maker AI]
** beta version as of 2026-3 - see if you can spot it... [[File:crappy AI injection mold.png|thumb|left|100 px|not every AI deserves the "I"]]
* [https://moldmaker.vercel.app/ 3D Mold Maker]
** generates mold shells that may be suitable for some casting techniques, but not injection molding

== Results ==
''yeah, I also wish it was already time for that ;-)''

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Design]]
[[Category:Precious Plastic]]
[[Category:Recycling]]

File:Crappy AI injection mold.png

2026-03-24T08:30:23Z

Lukas: injection mold generated by [https://moldmakerai.com/ Mold Maker AI] - beta version as of 2026-3 left: properly loaded & split design right: resulting "real, cast-ready mold with perfect split planes and draft angles" (their words, not mine)

== Summary ==
injection mold generated by [https://moldmakerai.com/ Mold Maker AI] - beta version as of 2026-3

left: properly loaded & split design
right: resulting "real, cast-ready mold with perfect split planes and draft angles" (their words, not mine)
== Licensing ==
{{CC-by-sa-4.0}}

Project:FDM Injection Molds

2026-03-23T15:21:26Z

Lukas: Created page with "{{ProjectInfoBox |project title=3D Printed Plastic Injection Molds |image= |status=first steps |date=spring 2026 |initiator=Lukas |team= |materials=PHA, PP, PE |tools=FDM 3D printers, "HoliPress" manual injection press |software=OnShape, Tinkercad |cost= }} I am experimenting with FDM 3D printed injection molds for PP, PE and perhaps other plastics and will try to keep track of the progress on this page. Yes, seriously: mol..."

Waiting Lists

2026-03-23T09:23:48Z

Lukas: missing links

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

''If you want to "wait" for a vehicle spot, see [[Vehicle Workspaces|vehicle workspaces]].''

<big>'''How to Use'''</big> Please '''link''' your [[Special:MyPage|user page]] at the bottom of each list you're interested in after you've filled it with enough information to contact you and/or activated "Allow other users to email me" in your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]]!

DO: link yourself for the introductions you need for your project(s)

DO NOT: link yourself for all available introductions just because you might need it at some point in the future - chances are you'll forget something important by the time you actually use the machine!

If a list is full enough and/or you have been waiting for a while, please reach out to the tool's tutors and kindly ask for a date - maybe they've just been too busy, but it could also be that they missed the list filling up and would appreciate the reminder.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]]==

Tutors:{{#show: 3D Printer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[mobell]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]] (I have quite some experience with my Prusa Mini)
*[[User:Bamalte|bamalte]]
*[[Nikhilesh]] (I have experience with Prussa Mk4 and Bambu Lab X1C at work)
*[[Kjubik]]

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Arc Welding Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: 45 min + 10 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
*[[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[User:Björn|Björn]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Meyerml|marcel meyer]]
*[[Jakob]]
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]] (no response 2024-6-24)
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]] (no response 2024-6-24)
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Nicolai|Nicolai]]
*[[User:Tom|Thomas Braun]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Heiko|Heiko]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors:
{{#show: Chop Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~30 min

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[LuLeBe|Leander Berg]]
*[[MobiTobi]]

== [[CNC Mill Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Mill Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 to 2 h

Next Date: 2026-2-22, 12:00-14:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Andreas|Andreas R]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
*[[Utis]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[Mamad]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:Erik1000|Erik]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Kjubik]]
*[[User:AndyWinzen|Andreas Winzen]]
*[[Maker-Joe|Jochen]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 h

Next Date: 2026-2-4, 19:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:FabianM|Fabian]]
*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Mamad|Mamad]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 15 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Nora|Nora]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:CaroSam|Caroline]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Pierre 7029|Pierre]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Jnafls|Johannes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Kjubik]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]

==[[Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: na

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
* [[Martin]]
* [[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
* [[Utis]]
* [[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:Dean|Dean]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Hm.mane|Hm.mane]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Neo|Johannes]]

==[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]==
Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60 min + 15 min per member

Next Date: 2025-7-2, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[Jnafls|Johannnes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Kjubik]]
*[[Didi]]

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser Cutter Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[MaKu]]

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Metal Lathe Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: 2-3h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
*[[User:BenKenobi|Benedict]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[Didi]]

== [[Sliding Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Sliding Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2025-4-9, 21:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[Volker]]
*
*[[User:Pkalbers|Patrick A.]]
*[[User:Mobell|Moritz B.]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom Braun]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[LeoF]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[User:Nibuzz]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]
*[[User:Johanna|Johanna]]
*[[User:MarcW|Marc]]

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2025-6-18 20:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Robin]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]

== [[Vertical Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Vertical Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1.5 h

Next Date: 2025-6-25, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response 2024-3 & 2024-11)
*[[User:MarcW|Marc Werther]]
*[[User:Robin]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[Nicolai]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Woodturning Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 20 min per person

Next Date: 2026-1-28, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Baumphil|baumphil]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response July & Nov 2023)
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:Micha|Micha]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Joey|Joel A.]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]

[[Category:Introductions]]

User:Lukas/Material

2026-03-23T07:24:17Z

Lukas: Metall

''"private" Seite mit Notizen zu meiner persönlichen Materialsammlung - ich teile gerne, einfach fragen!''

== Holz ==
* Stämme: s. [[Project:Drying Timber]]
* live edge "Douglasie rustikal"
** Ursprung Deutschland (gekauft bei Bauhaus)
** ''war mal'' 2000{{x}}200-250{{x}}30 mm (jetzt ''viel'' kürzer)
** ziemlich verdreht
* 4 ganze (125x250 cm) Siebdruckplatten 15 mm
** 2025: noch 2 ganze + Reste übrig(?)
* Eukalyptus-Pappel-Sperrholz "Plytinum Plex" (Versandpackung HPC)
* 27 mm [[Dreischichtplatte]], 100{{x}}190 cm (Rest Dachboden)

== Metall ==
1 x Winkel 40x40x4 mm, Edelstahl (V2A) 1.4301, roh (unbearbeitet) - Länge: 2000mm

6 x Edelstahl Flachstahl 20x8 mm, V2A K240 geschliffen - Länge: 2250mm

== Netzteile ==
''(zuhause)''
* 4V/150mA
* 4.4V/400mA USB
* 4.5V/700mA
* 5V/350mA
* 5V/550mA
* 5V/850mA mini-USB
* 5V/1A mini-USB
* 5V/1A
* 5V/1A USB
* 6V/0.5A
* 12V/400mA
* 12V/800mA
* 12V/1A (2x)
* 12V/1.2A
* 16.8V/2A
* 19V/3.42A
* 19V/3.95A
* 19V/4.74A
* 24V/330mA IP44
* 24V/1.04A IP44

* +''3.6V/680mAh Akku''

== Eisenwaren ==
=== Schrauben ===
* ''muss noch gucken''

=== diverse ===
* [https://www.bauhaus.info/klemmen-karabiner/stabilit-spannschloss/p/10190491 Stabilit-Spannschlösser M5/"Länge 115 mm"] (2x, noch 4 für nächste Beamer-Halterung kaufen)

== Kleben ==

zuhause:
* Glaskleber - FoxFix UV-Klebstoff 8010 dünnflüssig (Glas/Glas, Glas/Metall)
* Schraubensicherung - Liqui Moly hochfest

== Elektronik ==
* [https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B06XT58ZW9/ rotary encoders "Cylewet KY-040"] (4 übrig)