CoMakingSpace Wiki - User Contributions [en]

Disc Grinder Introduction

2026-06-29T22:11:31Z

Lukas: tutor Raphael

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Disc Grinders|disc grinders]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Nibuzz|Nils]], [[Tutor::User:Jeddi|Raphael]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual, if available (should be linked from its InfoBox).

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - face shield.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - gloves.svg|50px]]

''[[Breathing Protection|Breathing protection]] might also help depending on your material, but unless it can filter fumes you should always take care of sufficient ventilation.'' [https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/074-winkelschleifer/]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| generation of hot sparks that are expelled in varying directions ||
* wear [[goggles]] AND a [[Face Shields|face shield]] to protect your eyes
* never use it without the blade guard
* understand the spark direction, which will always be tangential to the point of the disc that is in contact with the workpiece
* coordinate your activity with others in the area
* do not attempt to vacuum up sparks! The dust collection bag could catch fire
|-
| sparks fly very far and deposit themselves as fine dust
* metal fumes and fine dust can be a health hazard when inhaled [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever]
||
take care of sufficient ventilation and/or wear a fume-filtering [[respirator]] when working with a grinder
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_heat.svg|left|50px]] the workpiece heats up and stays hot for a while || wear suitable [[gloves]] to prevent burns from sparks or the workpiece
|-
| possible kickback if the disc gets caught on the material ||
* put the workpiece in a [[vise]] or [[clamp]] it down during grinding
* hold the machine firmly with '''both hands''', one-handed operation causes 40% of all accidents [https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/074-winkelschleifer/]
* try not to shift the disc during a (deep) cut
* let the disc get to full speed before you start grinding
|-
| [[aluminum]] and other non-ferrous metals ''(DE: Nichteisenmetalle)'' can clog regular abrasive discs and cause them to overheat until they break/"explode" || do NOT use generic "metal" discs on aluminum! You will need to buy specialized aluminum cutting discs or accomplish your task with a more suitable tool.
|-
| a disc that is off-center or loose is very dangerous || after inserting a new disc, let it run freely for a minute and make sure it runs safe and true
|}

== Changing Discs ==
Please avoid overtightening the nut holding the disc in place! It should only be '''tightened softly by hand''' but may be '''loosened with the associated "pin" wrench''' if necessary. The direction of the motor's rotation is enough to tighten the nut to the appropriate degree.

== Suggested Reading ==
Besides these safety notes, you should know about [[Abrasive Discs|abrasive discs]], especially the '''difference between grinding and cutting discs!'''

[[Category:Introductions]]

User:Didi

2026-06-25T00:31:32Z

Lukas: (Vorschlag) Bild in Infobox

{{UserInfoBox
|real_name=Christian
|pronouns=any/alle
|image=Didi.png
|expertise=
|interests=
|projects=
|email=
|website=
|instagram=
|twitter=
|github=https://github.com/codestoe
|printables=
|thingiverse=
|telegram=
}}
Hello I'm Didi,

if you have any questions feel free to ask :)

Category:Category Queries

2026-06-16T12:28:15Z

Lukas: Created page with "We can use SMW to generate automatically updated lists based on multiple page categories. Feel free to copy the principle from the examples below and categorize your new list here! Category:SMW"

We can use [[SMW]] to generate automatically updated lists based on multiple page categories. Feel free to copy the principle from the examples below and categorize your new list here!

[[Category:SMW]]

Woodworking Jigs

2026-06-16T12:23:32Z

Lukas: Created page with "Here are all our jigs that are categorized as "woodworking": {{#ask:Category:JigsCategory:Woodworking |?#PAGENAME = Englisch |?Has German= Deutsch}} ''list generated with SMW based on categories and the parameter "german" from ToolInfoBoxes'' Category:Category Queries"

Here are all our [[jigs]] that are categorized as "[[woodworking]]":

{{#ask:[[Category:Jigs]][[Category:Woodworking]]
|?#PAGENAME = Englisch
|?Has German= Deutsch}}

''list generated with [[SMW]] based on [[categories]] and the parameter "german" from [[ToolInfoBox]]es''

[[Category:Category Queries]]

Hand Plane

2026-06-16T12:08:14Z

Lukas: Redirected page to Hand Planes

#redirect[[Hand Planes]]

Shooting Board

2026-06-16T12:07:03Z

Lukas: formatting

[[File:Shootingboard.JPG|thumb|Shooting Board]]
'''A shooting board is a [[Woodworking Jigs|woodworking jig]] used in combination with a [[Hand Plane|hand plane]] to trim and square up the ends of boards with precision. It's an essential tool for achieving clean, straight edges and perfectly square corners.'''

There are three boards at the comakingspace. Unfortunately one is currently missing.

==Where can I find the board?==

Two boards are located under one of the workbenches, the missing shooting-board is normally located at the Saw Station, left to the chop saw.

==General Tips==

*Always use a sharp Hand Plane with a side, that is exactly 90° to the blade. A metal Hand Plane with a low angle blade is ideal.

*Confirm the angle is 90° before starting your work (or after the first edge you made).

*Make sure to press down on the Hand Plane, so it remains flat on the surface.

*Never use a rabbet plane (Simshobel),which would cut into the shooting board itself. The Hand Plane is guided along the board with its non cutting part of the sole against the board.

*The boards fences, where the workpiece rests upon (as well as the runway for the 45° board) can be adjusted by loosening the winged nuts on the back and inserting pieces of paper for finetuning the angle.

*If the board moves to much when planing, it can be clamped down for more stability

==New Shooting Boards (2026)==
[[File:Shootingboard1.jpg|left|thumb|Two new shooting boards.]]
[[File:Shootingboard2.jpg|thumb|Adjustable Fence with winged nuts.]]
These two boards can be used for creating nearly perfect 90° angles and 45° angles (miters), as needed in box making. Another addon will be made, to make 45° as used in picture frames. These boards are located under one of the workbenches.

The design is loosely based on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMbnfRMquAs this video by Adrian Preda].

Both consists of a flat base made of two Boards of 22mm [[MDF]] with an adjustable fence and for the 45° board also an adjustable runway. You can do so by loosening the winged nuts and adding paperstrips to the gap.

They are 380mm in length and 260mm in width.

==Step-by-Step Guide to Using a Shooting Board==

# Set Up the Shooting Board:
#* Secure the shooting board to your workbench with clamps to prevent it from moving during use.
# Prepare the Hand Plane:
#* Choose a hand plane suitable for the job, such as a low-angle block plane or a bench plane.
#* Ensure the plane blade is sharp for clean cuts.
#* Set the blade to a shallow depth to take light passes.
# Position the Workpiece:
#* Place the workpiece against the fence, ensuring it is flush with the base of the shooting board.
#* For end grain trimming, position the workpiece so that the edge to be trimmed is accessible to the plane.
#Make the Cut:
#* Hold the hand plane firmly and position it on the runner (the hardwood guide attached to the base of the shooting board).
#* Push the plane along the runner, trimming the edge of the workpiece. Keep the plane's sole flat against the runner and the blade perpendicular to the edge being trimmed.
#*Apply consistent pressure and use a smooth, controlled motion to make the cut.
# Check the Cut:
#* After a few passes, stop and check the edge of the workpiece for squareness and smoothness.
#* Use a square to ensure the edge is perfectly 90 degrees to the face of the workpiece.
#* If needed, make additional passes with the plane to achieve the desired result.

==Tips for Best Results==

Keep the plane blade sharp to avoid tearing out the wood and to make clean, precise cuts. Take light passes to maintain control and prevent damaging the workpiece. Apply consistent pressure on the hand plane to ensure even cuts. Periodically check the alignment and squareness of the workpiece to ensure accuracy.

Using a shooting board can greatly enhance the precision and quality of your woodworking projects. Happy woodworking! 🛠️😊

[[Category:Jigs]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Domino Introduction

2026-06-16T11:54:59Z

Lukas: Redirected page to Joinery Machine Introduction

#redirect[[Joinery Machine Introduction]]

Hartschaumplatte

2026-06-09T19:46:28Z

Lukas: Redirected page to Material:PVC Foamboard

#redirect[[Material:PVC Foamboard]]

Vehicle Workspaces

2026-06-07T09:18:29Z

Lukas: /* Warteliste */ Mitte neu belegt

''>>> also check out #topic-vans on [[slack]]!''

The CoMakingSpace currently offers 3 vehicle workspaces that can be used with the corresponding [[membership]] option. The spaces are 3.5 m wide and 6 m long, and our gate is 3.00 m high (yes, '''precisely''').
[[File:Holme2.jpg|It's really useful to have a full set of tools near your vehicle! Check out [[Project:CamperVan]] by [[St3ffi]] & [[Mfisch3r]]|thumb|200px]]
[[File:Van-Built .jpg|VW T4 interior by [[User:Ciara|Ciara]] & [[User:Jannis|Jannis]]|thumb|200px]]

As specified in our ''[[Werkstattordnung]]'', these are NOT to be used as [[storage]] or parking spots but should aid in the active realization of larger vehicle projects. "Vehicle projects" for us means creative building as well as extensive alterations and repairs of all kinds of vehicles - so whether you're going to do a camper van conversion, design a cargo bike or trailer from scratch, or perhaps restore an old treasure, we are excited to see the results and what you'll learn in the process! Keep in mind that the [[Werkstattordnung]] rules are still in place. For example work on and around the engine/transmission is not permitted due to the risk of oil/gas leakage.

Since there may be times with more interested members than available spaces, we are compiling the waiting list '''[[#Warteliste|below]]'''. Members who are interested in using one of the spots can simply enter themselves. As soon as a verhicle space frees up, we will then offer it to the longest waiting member!

----
''>>> schaut euch auch mal #topic-vans auf [[slack]] an!''

''Der CoMakingSpace hat momentan 3 Fahrzeug-Werkplätze, die mit einer entsprechenden [[membership|Mitgliedschaftsoption]] genutzt werden können. Die Plätze sind 6 m lang und 3,5 m breit, und unser Tor hat eine Höhe von 3,00 m.''

''Gemäß unserer [[Werkstattordnung]] handelt es sich dabei NICHT um [[Lager]]- oder Stellplätze, sondern um Flächen zur aktiven Verfolgung von umfangreicheren Fahrzeugprojekten. "Fahrzeugprojekte" sind bei uns kreative Neubauten sowie größere Umbauten und Reparaturen von Fahrzeugen aller Art - wenn ihr also beispielsweise einen Van ausbauen, ein Lastenrad oder Anhänger selbst entwickeln oder ein altes Schätzchen herrichten wollt sind wir gespannt auf die Resultate und was ihr "unterwegs" herausfindet! Bedenkt bitte, dass die [[Werkstattordnung]] auch bei den Fahrzeugplätzen besteht. Zum Beispiel sind Arbeiten am und um den Motorraum oder das Getriebe aufgrund des Risikos von Öl-/Benzinaustritt nicht möglich.''

''Da es vorkommen kann, dass es mehr Interessenten als Plätze gibt, haben wir die folgende Warteliste eingerichtet. Hier sollen sich Mitglieder eintragen, die einen Fahrzeugplatz nutzen wollen. Sobald einer frei geworden ist wird dieser an das am längsten wartende Mitglied in der Warteliste vergeben:''

== Warteliste ==
* Fahrzeugplätze werden für max. 6 Monate vergeben
* kürzere Zeiten sind auch möglich, auf jeden Fall wird direkt beim Einzug das Ende festgehalten
* Wer länger braucht, kann nach Ablauf der Zeit Glück haben und direkt als erster "Wartender" weitermachen oder muss den Platz freimachen und ganz regulär warten, bis ein neuer frei wird
* Wer einen Monat vor Ende der vereinbarten Laufzeit weiß, dass mehr Zeit doch gut wäre, darf sich bereits wieder auf die Liste setzen

{| class="wikitable"
!Platz:
|links
|mittig
|rechts
|-
!genutzt bis:
|''max. 1.8.2026''
|''max. 4.11.2026''
|''max. 1.8.2026''
|-
!aktuell:
|[[MaKu]]
|[[Gurkensaft]]
|[[Mamad]]
|-
!Nachfolge:
|?
|?
|?
|}

Bei Interesse bitte '''hier eintragen''':
* ...

[[Category:Facilities]]
[[Category:Vehicles]]

3D Printer Introduction

2026-06-06T08:22:01Z

Lukas: Tutor Jaggi2

''(deutsche Version: [[3D-Drucker-Einweisung]] - Änderungen wenn möglich auch dort eintragen!)''

This is the content required for an introduction to our FFF (fused filament fabrication) [[Introduction for::3D Printer]]s - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this Introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Leo|Leo]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Narquadah|Kim]], [[Tutor::User:Ciaran|Ciaran]], [[Tutor::User:Björn|Björn]], [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]], [[Tutor::User:MobiTobi|MobiTobi]], [[Tutor::User:LabCrow|LabCrow]], [[Tutor::User:Jaggi2|Jakob S.]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you are aware of the [[3D Printers#General Usage Guidelines|3D printers' general usage guidelines]] and have read the [http://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2s_en.pdf printers' manual].

== Safety ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
|
[[File:Danger_-_heat.svg|left|50px]] exposed heated parts - may still be hot if the display is already turned off!
* nozzle (over 200 °C)
* print bed (up to 100 °C)
|| do not touch these parts when the printer is or has recently been running
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_hand injury.svg|left|50px]] rapidly moving mechanical parts || do not reach into the print area while in operation!
|-
|
* machine may keep executing its commands after something went wrong
** every move is based on the initial homing ("zero-ing")
** no sensing of obstacles or current position!
||
* closely watch the homing process and the initial layer before leaving the printer alone
* stay within the CoMakingSpace for the duration of your print and occasionally have a look at how it's going
** if you need to leave for a while, pause the print or ask someone to supervise it
** there is no need to sit in front of the machine all the time, just '''do not leave the Space!'''
|-
| when removing support material, small plastic parts can fly everywhere || wear eye protection when removing support material
|}

=== How to Stop ===
Here are your options, depending on how fast you have to be:
* FAST - the printer is crashing/heading for an obstacle/making weird noises/going up in smoke?
** press the "X" button on the control panel (will reset the printer, everything freezes but the fans stay on)
** via the control panel, move up (Z +) so the nozzle gets out of the part that failed
** if you can't identify '''exactly''' what went wrong and how to fix it, talk to a [[tutor]] before attempting the print again

* SLOW - you're not happy with the way your print is turning out?
** via the control panel, select <code>ABORT PRINT</code>
** change the [[:Category:Slicers|print settings]] you think were responsible and try again (best keep the failed part for reference!)
** if there is a removable mistake that isn't critical yet, you could also <code>PAUSE PRINT</code> and try to fix it

== Control Panel ==
Push the dial to enter the menu and as an "Enter" button, turn to scroll through lists of settings - the details about this are found in the [http://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2s_en.pdf printers' manual].

Be aware that changes via the control panel do not have an immediate effect, but a few lines of code may still be executed from the machine's buffer!

== Changing Filament ==
The filament change on our printers is done ''semi'' automatically via the control panel. It usually works quite well but we will demonstrate it as part of the introduction. Before putting in a new spool, make sure you know what type of [[plastic]] it is and what to look out for (e.g. different nozzle temperature, flexibility).

Some materials are currently not printable because they require temperatures our setup won't reach or they would produce noxious fumes. '''Only use the filament provided in the 3D printer farm!'''

== Nozzle size ==
Printers can have different nozzle sizes installed make sure you select the machine profile with the corresponding nozzle size in the slicer.

== Suggested Reading ==
To increase your success rate, you should also read the pages about [[3D Printing|3D printing in general]], [[3D Printer Bed Preparation|bed preparation]], [[filament]] and [[:Category:Slicers|slicing]]. Don't beat yourself up if you still have some failed prints - it happens to very experienced users now and then ;-)

{{Waiting List}}

{{#set:
| checklist_title=3D-Printer
| checklist_symbols=W017
| checklist_symbols=W024
| checklist_link=https://wiki.comakingspace.de/3D_Printer_Introduction
| checklist_before=**Must** remove any debris/leftover prints from bed
| checklist_before=**Should** clean bed (e.g. with isopropanol)
| checklist_during=**Must** observe 1st layer
| checklist_during=**Must not** leave the workshop during the print; check regularly
| checklist_after=**Must** remove filament from extruder (may break off if left)
| checklist_after=**Must** let nozzle cool down before turning off printer
| checklist_after=**Should** turn off slicer PC if not needed
}}

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Introductions]]

Altendorf F 45

2026-06-05T14:43:18Z

Lukas: /* Specs */ new (borrowed) blade

== Altendorf F 45 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Altendorf F 45 (1985)
|german=Formatkreissäge
|image=Altendorf F45.jpeg
|synonyms=sliding panel saw, horizontal panel saw, panel sizing circular saw
|material=[[wood]], [[Engineered Woods|engineered woods]], many [[plastics]]
|manual=[https://www.daltonswadkin.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/F45-1990-German.pdf 1990 version (DE, Daltons-Wadkin.com)]
|used with=
|similar=[[Table Saw|table saw]]
|assetid=153
}}
We were able to afford this used [[Sliding Table Saw|sliding table saw]] from 1985 with donations from a past [[Bonus Programs|bonus program]] and a (still active!) [https://www.betterplace.org/de/projects/99816-verbesserung-einer-offenen-werkstatt betterplace campaign].

===Specs===
''These are the correct machine specifics - information in the (newer) manual may differ!''

* workpiece
** max. length: 250 cm
** max. width: ''to be verified - approx. 150 cm on either side of the cut''
* main blade
** max. diameter: 350 mm
**central bore: 30 mm
** guide pins: 2 8 60 (matching holes appear to be 2 10 60)
**3000/4000/'''5000'''/6000 rpm
** '''currently installed: Felder SilentPower Silver, Ø350x3.5/2.5x30 Z54 HW, max. 5500 rpm ''(owner: Marlon)'''''

=== Hood ===
The protective hood must be installed for all cuts. Before you start, make sure it is set to the proper height and does not touch the blade!

Extra wide hoods that allow miter cuts cost a substantial amount of money, would require extra attention and last but not least intuitive storage space. Therefore, we [modified https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/305#issuecomment-2690405041] our original [https://www.altendorf-shop.de/hood-narrow-90-wa-107.html narrow WA 107) to make it 65 mm wider. Our [[Dust Extraction|dust extraction]] is <strike>good</strike> overpowered enough that '''the wide hood can be used for all cut angles.'''

=== Fences ===
==== Crosscut Fence ====
Please '''do not''' move the table extension with the crosscut fence along the sliding table! It should remain in the back or you will mess up its accuracy.

Last calibration 2025-2-5: right angle accuracy < 0.5 mm per m, further improvements would require extended test cut series.

'''Caution:''' the sliding stop on the crosscut fence is bent so that workpieces of different thickness are stopped at ''slightly'' different lengths! The scale is only accurate for 9 mm workpieces at the moment (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/340])

==== Parallel Fence ====
This fence is the most accurate guide on the sliding table saw, featuring screw-driven fine adjustment for the final cm.

For reliable alignment, make sure you '''press the fence down''' onto the table with one hand while tightening it with the front lever!

[[File:Sliding table, fence pulled back.png|thumb|250px|when fixing the workpiece on the sliding table, pull the parallel fence all the way back so it ends before the blade]]
Never use both fences at once - however, you can use the parallel fence '''pulled all the way back''' to align a workpiece held on the sliding table! The important point is that only one constraint (sliding table OR parallel fence) is acting on the workpiece anywhere it touches the blade.

=== Accessories ===
'''Click the photos below for more information!'''
{{#ask:
[[Category:Tools]] [[Used With::Altendorf F 45]]
| ?Has image
| ?Has caption
| format=gallery
| navigation=auto
| imageproperty=Has image
| captionproperty=Has caption
| sort=Has caption
| redirects=-
| widths = 200
}}

=== Potential Upgrades ===
* elongated crosscut fence (''something'' like [https://www.ebay.de/itm/254840615785 this] would also fix the problem with the slanted stopper)
* miter fence
* "butt handle" for hands-free table pullback after a cut (part 7.02 in the manual)
*scoring blade/''Vorritzer''
**NOT installed!
**if you need this feature and are willing to contribute to the necessary upgrades, reach out to {{inventory-manager}}

User:LabCrow

2026-06-05T09:41:46Z

Lukas: InfoBox now supports MakerWorld :-)

{{UserInfoBox|real_name=Fabi|expertise=3D-Design (mainly [[Onshape]]),
FDM 3D-printing
SLA 3D-printing|interests=I'd like to learn (more) about CNC, Laser, (micro) Electronics|email=LabCrow666@gmail.com|makerworld=LabCrow|github=Lab-Crow}}

Since 08.04.26 I am a member of the co-making space. Right now I'm studying molecular biology in the 2nd semester at the university of Heidelberg and have been doing smaller and sometimes bigger projects for years. Solving problems is one of the main driving forces for me in most areas.

Since I started 3D printing in 2020 and got my first printer in 2022, the number of my projects increased and kept growing since. Now I want to cross fields and try to learn more about other materials and manufacturing methods. If I don't work on my own projects at home or in the space, I also try to find (small) things I can solve/fix at the space.

=== Tutor ===
I like to learn and also to share my knowledge with others so I'm glad to be tutor for the following machines:

* [[3D Printers|3D printers]]

=== Tools I am allowed to use ===

* [[3D Printers]]
* [[Laser Cutter]]
* [[Reciprocating Saw]]
* [[Jigsaws]]
* [[Drill Press]]
* [[Cordless Drills]]
* [[Chop Saw]]
* [[Handheld Circular Saws]]
* [[Handheld Sanders]]
* [[Handheld Routers]]

== Projects ==
These are my recent projects but some smaller models may only be found at my Maker World page. Feel free to contact me if you're interested in any of them or have connected/enhancing ideas.

==== Quick Projects ====
These projects are smaller and can be done in one or two sessions.
* [[Project:Grill Knob]]
[[File:Grill knob replacement.png|center|thumb]]
* [[Project:Makita DJV181 Dust Extraction]]
[[File:Makita djv181 dust extraction.png|center|thumb]]
* [[Project:Chop Saw Extraction Ring]]
[[File:Chop saw extraction ring.png|center|thumb]]
* [[Project:Hard Soldering Torch Holder]]
[[File:Hard soldering torch mount.jpg|center|thumb]]
* [[Project:Metal Lathe Thread Gears Organizer]]
[[File:Metal lathe gear organizer mounted.jpg|center|thumb]]
* [[Project:Laser Cutter Price Sign]]
[[File:Laser Cutter tax sign.png|center|thumb]]
* [[Project:Press Tool for Headset Cups Holder]]
[[File:Press Tool for Headset Cups Holder with mount.png|center|thumb]]
* [[Project:CNC Mill dust extraction]][[File:CNC mill extraction.png|center|thumb]]
* [[Project:Drink and Ball Holder for Table Kicker]][[File:Tischkickergetränke.jpeg|center|thumb]]

=== In Progress ===
* I'm currently helping [[User:AndyWinzen|AndyWinzen]] with the modification of the big aluminium CNC mill and try to contribute with design and 3D-printing of:
** [ x ] Mounting bracket for the mother board
** [ x ] TPU lining for the handle holes in the side panels
** [ x ] Motor cover plates in the front plate
** [ ] Extraction at the spindle
** [ x ] Door handle
** [ ] exaust shield
** [ ] Vacuum adapter
** [ ] bellow tube cover for the rails for protection against dust and fingers
*** ([x] = done; details will be in the documentation after finishing the renovation)

* To control my heater through ESP smart home I'm building a motorized add on without invasive alteration
* I try to help [[Lukas]] with [[Project:FDM Injection Molds]]

== Ideas ==
This is a list of potential (quick) projects for the future; some more concrete than others:

* Skadis (peg board) models for the sewing station
* Skadis mount for Bosch Power Pack 500
* sunglasses with additional shades (magnetic)
* (automatic) mechanical closer for the fridge

User:Lukas

2026-06-05T09:33:59Z

Lukas: printables

{{UserInfoBox
|image=Lukas at saw.jpg
|expertise=[[management]], [[woodworking]], [[3DP|3D printing]], [[Laser Cutting|laser cutting]], LEGO, education, [[construction]]
|email=lukas [ät] comaking.space
|thingiverse=LokusArts
|printables=LukasFreeze
|github=LukasFreeze
|telegram=@LukasFreeze
}}
Hi, I'm Lukas, one of the CoMakingSpace's founders and [[managers]]. You'll often find me in the Space during the [[Wednesday Making Hours]] :-)

I always knew I liked to build and assemble things, but never thought of myself as very creative until I built my first 3D printer and ''began'' to understand [[CAD]] programs. Many other techniques have gotten my attention since then and I believe that knowing '''how''' to work with a [[Materials|material]] automatically leads to tons of ideas '''what''' to do with it. Therefore, learning and teaching is the main advantage of community workshops like the CoMakingSpace in my eyes (closely followed by all the cool stuff you couldn't afford on your own).

Besides coming up with new ideas, I believe that knowing even just a few basic [[methods]] and tools enables everyone to [[repair]] and [[recycle]] their stuff more efficiently, reducing the amount of waste our modern society likes to generate.

== Projects ==
I especially like combining different materials, [[upcycling]] "waste" and incorporating natural materials into my [[projects]]. A continuous effort of mine is [[Creating Wiki Content|creating content]] and [[:Category:Wiki|structure for this wiki]] to equip other Makers (especially those around Heidelberg) with a good starting point for their own projects, and contributing to [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues solutions in our Space's "issue tracker"].


 
Future projects will likely revolve around constructing the CoMakingSpace and increasing its selection of [[jigs]] and [[Self-Made Tools|self-made tools]] - squeezing in some personal projects now and then:

=== Ongoing ===
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=150 caption="([[Project:Navigation Galleries|navigation gallery]] - click to see project pages)">
File:project-default.png|link=[[Project:Longtail Bike Towbar]]|longtail bike towbar
File:project-default.png|link=[[Project:3D Printed Injection Molds]]|3D printed (FDM) injection molds
File:project-default.png|link=[[Project:Türverkleinerung]]|''Verkleinerung einer Massivholztür''
File:carpenter's mallet - Lukas.JPG|link=[[Project:Mallets]]|self-made mallets
File:drying timber variety.JPG|link=[[Project:Drying Timber]]|drying timber
File:project gallery.png|link=[[Project:Navigation Galleries]]|galleries for visual wiki navigation
File:Skibogen v1.2.jpg|link=[[Project:Skibogen]]|''Takedown-Recurvebogen aus alten Ski''
File:CoMS Model 2020-5.png|link=[[Project:CoMS Model]]|3D model of our rooms
File:Disc sander test.JPG|link=[[Project:Disc Sander]]|lathe-powered disc sander
File:Spartan knife holder 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Spartan Holders]]|Spartan hoplite knife & pencil holders
</gallery>

=== Done ===
And here are some of my projects that are (probably) finished:

<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=150 caption="([[Project:Navigation Galleries|navigation gallery]] - click to see project pages)">
File:Flaschenschneider 1st try.jpg|link=[[Project:Flaschenschneider]]|''Flaschenschneider''
File:Flaschenlampe fast fertig.jpg|link=[[Project:Flaschenlampe]]|''Lampe aus zerschnittenen Weinflaschen''
File:Würfelturm used.jpg|link=[[Project:Würfelturm]]|''Würfelturm aus solidem Holz''
File:activity sloth.jpg|link=[[Project:Activity Board]]|activity board
File:Lernturm in Aktion.jpg|link=[[Project:Lernturm]]|''Lerntürme für Kinder (IKEA-Hack)''
File:festival radio battery check.jpg|link=[[Project:Festival Radio]]|turning an old radio into a versatile mobile media player
File:Kreidekreisel.jpg|link=[[Project:Kreidekreisel]]|''Kreidekreisel-"Malmaschine"''
File:Schalltür0.JPG|link=[[Project:Schallschutztüren]]|''Schallschutztüren zur Werkstatt''
File:captive rings 16.jpg|link=[[Project:Captive Ring Turning]]|learning how to turn captive rings on the [[Wood Lathe|wood lathe]]
File:metal rose 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Metal Rose]]|metal rose, completely by hand
File:TBB done.jpg|link=[[Project:Typewriter Bicycle Bell]]|bicycle bell from an old typewriter
File:jar jar shelf 7.JPG|link=[[Project:Jar Jar Shelf]]|shelf for "Odenwald" jars
File:laptop wall mount.jpg|link=[[Project:Laptop Wall Mount]]|laser cut laptop wall mount
File:VHS couch table legs finished.JPG|link=[[Project:VHS Couch Table]]|couch table legs out of old VHS cassettes
File:football scoreboard team alignment.JPG|link=[[Project:Giant Football Scoreboard]]|my brother's giant football scoreboard
File:resized wardrobe drawers 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Resized Wardrobe Drawers]]|resized wardrobe drawers
File:wired 'battery' pack.JPG|link=[[Project:Semi-Cordless Drill]]|"Semi-Cordless Drill" (replacing a cordless drill's old NiCd battery pack with an on-demand power supply)
File:Bierkastentisch cover.jpg|link=[[Project:Bierkastentisch]]|''Bierkastentisch fürs Camping''
File:lumberjack cake stand 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Lumberjack Cake Stand]]|"Lumberjack Championship" inspired wedding cake stand
File:birch tealights 10.JPG|link=[[Project:Tree Trunk Tealights]]|tealight holders out of birch logs
File:wax wrap Vader.JPG|link=[[Project:Beeswax Wrap]]|beeswax wrap to replace cling foil ''(Frischhaltefolie)'' in the kitchen
File:aq-edge working prototype.JPG|link=[[Project:Aquarium Edge Illumination]]|accurately lighting an aquarium for behavioral recordings
File:file handles cover.JPG|link=[[Project:File Handles]]|self-made file handles
File:Schwenkgrill 16.JPG|link=[[Project:Schwenkgrill]]|''klappbarer Schwenkgrill''
File:TAC 00.JPG|link=[[Project:TAC]]|"TAC" boardgame
File:fishcage0.JPG|link=[[Project:Fish Cages]]|floating fish rearing cages
File:Circular saw guide build 5.JPG|link=[[Project:Circular Saw Guide]]|circular saw guide without measuring
File:Roubo workbench 1-24.JPG|link=[[Project:Roubo Workbench]]|"Roubo" style woodworking bench for our [[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
File:sketching lockers.PNG|link=[[Project:Lockers]]|lockers for the Space
File:coming soon.svg|link=[[Project:3D Printed Boardgames]]|various 3D printed boardgames
</gallery>

=== Planned ===
* tons of [[Toys & Games|toys & games]] - often, but not always for the kids
* various other home & garden improvements
* retry [[Project:Schneckchen]] with laser cutting
* "Maker's mark" to brand or emboss my finished pieces
* experiments under the [[Precious Plastic]] umbrella
* [[welding]] more campfire and barbecue equipment
* [https://www.instructables.com/id/Pocket-Froe-a-Pocket-Friendly-Wood-Splitting-Tool/ froe] and three-way wedge for splitting wood
* marking knife, [https://ibuildit.ca/projects/knife-sharpener/ knife sharpener], parting tool & more out of old circular saw blades
* puzzle games like the [https://www.instructables.com/id/NUT-T-Coin-Trap/ "Nut-T Coin Trap"] that could be adjusted for laser cutting
* ...and ''too'' many more...

=== Other "Makes" ===
Here I'll collect some pictures where I didn't write a whole [[Projects|project page]] (yet?), e.g. if it was just my take on someone else's project or it's simple enough to be understood from one photo.
However, if you have any questions I'm always happy to help and could document more!

<gallery heights=100>
File:GutSTEIN + wax.jpg|laser engraved stone "gift card"
File:leftover stool.jpg|a simple stool cut from leftover IKEA pieces from [[Project:Lernturm]]
File:Kohlerost.jpg|charcoal grate [[welded]] from [[rebar]]
File:Kletter-Schlüsselbrett.jpg|key holder for climbing enthusiasts (inspired by [https://www.fujfuj.com/ fujfuj.com])
File:corner guard.jpg|corner guards (simple child's head savers that indestructively clamp on any shelf corner)
File:composting toilet from pallets.JPG|composting toilet built almost entirely from pallet wood and other [[recycled]] materials
File:Laser-Tigerente 5.jpg|laser engraved & waxed [[Tigerente]]
File:wood photo stand.png|simple but decorative holder for a [[Laser Engraving Photos|wooden photo]] out of leftovers from [[Project:TAC|my "TAC" boardgame]]
File:Nudelholz.jpeg|pasta roller for [[Patrick]]
File:Stehschreibtisch.JPG|standing desk upgrade to ''any'' desk (as long as you're tall or the screen is small enough)
File:Besteck-Uhr.jpg|clock from forks and spoons
File:schräge DVD-Regale.jpg|angled DVD shelves to display titles better while avoiding heavy stacks
File:Erdbeersäule2019.JPG|vertical strawberry farm
File:eukalyptus saw handle rough shape.JPG|saw handle out of leftovers from my [[Project:TAC|"TAC" boardgame]] - the naked blade cost me just a few cents
File:countersink wood drill bit holder.jpg|simple pouch to store & transport countersink [[Wood Drill Bits|wood drill bits]]
File:Bierbankrettung Loch zu.JPG|repair: got a "beer table" with a hole in it for next to 0 €, then plugged it with a custom cut piece of fir and sanded it flush after the [[Wood Glue|wood glue]] was dry
File:Birgitts bible covers.JPG|decorative bible covers I helped Birgitt make: [[Laser Cutting|laser engraved]] patterns and "holy" water/soil under [[Acrylic Glass|acrylic glass]]
</gallery>

== "Private" Pages ==
Feel free to read on if you feel like it, but these probably won't be interesting to you - more like notes to myself ;-)

* [[User:Lukas/Bench|''my workbench'']]
* [[User:Lukas/Werkzeug|''some of my tools'']]
* [[User:Lukas/Material|''materials I've kept for future projects'']]


[[Lends Tool::Chainsaw| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Fräser| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Schwingschleifer| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Winkelschleifer| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Impact_Drill| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Pyrography Burner| ]]

Template:UserInfoBox

2026-06-05T09:32:36Z

Lukas: added Makerworld support

<noinclude>
{{UserInfoBox
|real_name=Maker
|pronouns=any/any
|image=
|expertise=
|interests=[[Projects|everything]]
|projects=
|email=
|website=[https://www.comakingspace.org www.comakingspace.org]
|instagram=comakingspace
|twitter=comakingspace
|github=comakingspace
|printables=
|thingiverse=
|makerworld=
|telegram=[[Telegram Group]]
}}
The idea of this [[InfoBoxes|InfoBox]] is to display user information in an organized way. It may remind you of the printouts on our [[Members Wall]] - if not, you should probably head over there and print one for yourself ;-)

Feel free to add some information about yourself and just leave out any entry you don't want to show.

== Documentation ==
To use this template, simply copy this code into your page, add the values, or delete lines you don't want to fill out.

Some lines are "smart", i.e. you only have to enter your Twitter username and a link is created automatically. As always, make good use of the "Show preview" function to make sure it works as you expected.
<pre>
{{UserInfoBox
|real_name=
|pronouns=
|image=
|expertise=
|interests=
|projects=
|email=
|website=
|instagram=
|twitter=
|github=
|printables=
|thingiverse=
|makerworld=
|telegram=
}}
</pre>

[[Category:Community]]
</noinclude>

{| class="wikitable" style="float:right; margin-left: 10px; border-style: solid; border-width: 5px; border-color: #00773D"
!colspan="2"|[[Template:UserInfoBox|UserInfoBox]] 
<big>'''Quick Info'''</big>
|-
{{#if: {{{image|}}}|
{{!}}-
!colspan="2"{{!}} [[File:{{{image}}}|frameless|200px]]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{real_name|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Name:
{{!}} {{{real_name}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{pronouns|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Pronouns:
{{!}} {{{pronouns}}}
|}}
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{{#if: {{{expertise|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Expertise:
{{!}} {{{expertise}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{interests|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Interests:
{{!}} {{{interests}}}
|}}
|-
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{{!}}-
{{!}} Project(s):
{{!}} {{{projects}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{email|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} eMail:
{{!}} {{{email}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{website|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Website:
{{!}} {{{website}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{instagram|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Instagram:
{{!}} [https://www.instagram.com/{{{instagram}}} {{{instagram}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{twitter|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Twitter:
{{!}} [https://twitter.com/{{{twitter}}} {{{twitter}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{github|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} GitHub:
{{!}} [https://github.com/{{{github}}}/ {{{github}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{printables|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Printables:
{{!}} [https://www.printables.com/@{{{printables}}}/ {{{printables}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{thingiverse|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Thingiverse:
{{!}} [https://www.thingiverse.com/{{{thingiverse}}}/ {{{thingiverse}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{makerworld|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Makerworld:
{{!}} [https://www.makerworld.com/@{{{makerworld}}}/ {{{makerworld}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{telegram|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Telegram:
{{!}} {{{telegram}}}
|}}
|}
<noinclude>
== Template Parameters ==
<templatedata>
{
"params": {
"image": {
"label": "Your image",
"description": "Feel free to add an image of yourself so that others can recognize you more easily",
"type": "wiki-file-name",
"suggested": true
},
"real_name": {
"label": "Name",
"description": "The name you would like others to use when approaching you",
"example": "Jane",
"type": "string",
"required": true
},
"pronouns": {
"label": "Pronouns",
"description": "The pronouns you would like others to use when approaching you",
"example": "they/them",
"type": "string",
"suggested": true
},
"expertise": {
"label": "Your expertise",
"description": "Is there anything you are particularly good at? Just name it!",
"type": "string",
"suggested": true
},
"interests": {
"label": "Your interests",
"description": "Is there anything you are interested in / want to learn? Just name it!",
"type": "string",
"suggested": true
},
"projects": {
"label": "Your Projects",
"description": "Here you can link any project you have done. Whether it was at the CoMakingSpace or somewhere else, let us know!",
"type": "string"
},
"email": {
"label": "E-Mail",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your e-mail adress to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"website": {
"label": "Website",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your website to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"instagram": {
"label": "Instagram",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your instagram handle to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"twitter": {
"label": "Twitter",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your twitter handle to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"github": {
"label": "GitHub",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your GitHub name to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"printables": {
"label": "Printables",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your Printables nick to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"thingiverse": {
"label": "Thingiverse",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your thingiverse nick to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"makerworld": {
"label": "Makerworld",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your Makerworld nick to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"telegram": {
"label": "Telegram",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your telegram handle to others here.",
"type": "string"
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},
"description": "Adds an InfoBox to display user information in an organized way. It may remind you of the printouts on our Members Wall - if not, you should probably head over there and print one for yourself ;-)",
"paramOrder": [
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</noinclude>

User:Lukas

2026-06-01T19:01:53Z

Lukas: /* Ongoing */ longtail bike towbar

{{UserInfoBox
|image=Lukas at saw.jpg
|expertise=[[management]], [[woodworking]], [[3DP|3D printing]], [[Laser Cutting|laser cutting]], LEGO, education, [[construction]]
|email=lukas [ät] comaking.space
|thingiverse=LokusArts
|github=LukasFreeze
|telegram=@LukasFreeze
}}
Hi, I'm Lukas, one of the CoMakingSpace's founders and [[managers]]. You'll often find me in the Space during the [[Wednesday Making Hours]] :-)

I always knew I liked to build and assemble things, but never thought of myself as very creative until I built my first 3D printer and ''began'' to understand [[CAD]] programs. Many other techniques have gotten my attention since then and I believe that knowing '''how''' to work with a [[Materials|material]] automatically leads to tons of ideas '''what''' to do with it. Therefore, learning and teaching is the main advantage of community workshops like the CoMakingSpace in my eyes (closely followed by all the cool stuff you couldn't afford on your own).

Besides coming up with new ideas, I believe that knowing even just a few basic [[methods]] and tools enables everyone to [[repair]] and [[recycle]] their stuff more efficiently, reducing the amount of waste our modern society likes to generate.

== Projects ==
I especially like combining different materials, [[upcycling]] "waste" and incorporating natural materials into my [[projects]]. A continuous effort of mine is [[Creating Wiki Content|creating content]] and [[:Category:Wiki|structure for this wiki]] to equip other Makers (especially those around Heidelberg) with a good starting point for their own projects, and contributing to [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues solutions in our Space's "issue tracker"].


 
Future projects will likely revolve around constructing the CoMakingSpace and increasing its selection of [[jigs]] and [[Self-Made Tools|self-made tools]] - squeezing in some personal projects now and then:

=== Ongoing ===
<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=150 caption="([[Project:Navigation Galleries|navigation gallery]] - click to see project pages)">
File:project-default.png|link=[[Project:Longtail Bike Towbar]]|longtail bike towbar
File:project-default.png|link=[[Project:3D Printed Injection Molds]]|3D printed (FDM) injection molds
File:project-default.png|link=[[Project:Türverkleinerung]]|''Verkleinerung einer Massivholztür''
File:carpenter's mallet - Lukas.JPG|link=[[Project:Mallets]]|self-made mallets
File:drying timber variety.JPG|link=[[Project:Drying Timber]]|drying timber
File:project gallery.png|link=[[Project:Navigation Galleries]]|galleries for visual wiki navigation
File:Skibogen v1.2.jpg|link=[[Project:Skibogen]]|''Takedown-Recurvebogen aus alten Ski''
File:CoMS Model 2020-5.png|link=[[Project:CoMS Model]]|3D model of our rooms
File:Disc sander test.JPG|link=[[Project:Disc Sander]]|lathe-powered disc sander
File:Spartan knife holder 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Spartan Holders]]|Spartan hoplite knife & pencil holders
</gallery>

=== Done ===
And here are some of my projects that are (probably) finished:

<gallery mode=packed-hover heights=150 caption="([[Project:Navigation Galleries|navigation gallery]] - click to see project pages)">
File:Flaschenschneider 1st try.jpg|link=[[Project:Flaschenschneider]]|''Flaschenschneider''
File:Flaschenlampe fast fertig.jpg|link=[[Project:Flaschenlampe]]|''Lampe aus zerschnittenen Weinflaschen''
File:Würfelturm used.jpg|link=[[Project:Würfelturm]]|''Würfelturm aus solidem Holz''
File:activity sloth.jpg|link=[[Project:Activity Board]]|activity board
File:Lernturm in Aktion.jpg|link=[[Project:Lernturm]]|''Lerntürme für Kinder (IKEA-Hack)''
File:festival radio battery check.jpg|link=[[Project:Festival Radio]]|turning an old radio into a versatile mobile media player
File:Kreidekreisel.jpg|link=[[Project:Kreidekreisel]]|''Kreidekreisel-"Malmaschine"''
File:Schalltür0.JPG|link=[[Project:Schallschutztüren]]|''Schallschutztüren zur Werkstatt''
File:captive rings 16.jpg|link=[[Project:Captive Ring Turning]]|learning how to turn captive rings on the [[Wood Lathe|wood lathe]]
File:metal rose 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Metal Rose]]|metal rose, completely by hand
File:TBB done.jpg|link=[[Project:Typewriter Bicycle Bell]]|bicycle bell from an old typewriter
File:jar jar shelf 7.JPG|link=[[Project:Jar Jar Shelf]]|shelf for "Odenwald" jars
File:laptop wall mount.jpg|link=[[Project:Laptop Wall Mount]]|laser cut laptop wall mount
File:VHS couch table legs finished.JPG|link=[[Project:VHS Couch Table]]|couch table legs out of old VHS cassettes
File:football scoreboard team alignment.JPG|link=[[Project:Giant Football Scoreboard]]|my brother's giant football scoreboard
File:resized wardrobe drawers 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Resized Wardrobe Drawers]]|resized wardrobe drawers
File:wired 'battery' pack.JPG|link=[[Project:Semi-Cordless Drill]]|"Semi-Cordless Drill" (replacing a cordless drill's old NiCd battery pack with an on-demand power supply)
File:Bierkastentisch cover.jpg|link=[[Project:Bierkastentisch]]|''Bierkastentisch fürs Camping''
File:lumberjack cake stand 00.jpg|link=[[Project:Lumberjack Cake Stand]]|"Lumberjack Championship" inspired wedding cake stand
File:birch tealights 10.JPG|link=[[Project:Tree Trunk Tealights]]|tealight holders out of birch logs
File:wax wrap Vader.JPG|link=[[Project:Beeswax Wrap]]|beeswax wrap to replace cling foil ''(Frischhaltefolie)'' in the kitchen
File:aq-edge working prototype.JPG|link=[[Project:Aquarium Edge Illumination]]|accurately lighting an aquarium for behavioral recordings
File:file handles cover.JPG|link=[[Project:File Handles]]|self-made file handles
File:Schwenkgrill 16.JPG|link=[[Project:Schwenkgrill]]|''klappbarer Schwenkgrill''
File:TAC 00.JPG|link=[[Project:TAC]]|"TAC" boardgame
File:fishcage0.JPG|link=[[Project:Fish Cages]]|floating fish rearing cages
File:Circular saw guide build 5.JPG|link=[[Project:Circular Saw Guide]]|circular saw guide without measuring
File:Roubo workbench 1-24.JPG|link=[[Project:Roubo Workbench]]|"Roubo" style woodworking bench for our [[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
File:sketching lockers.PNG|link=[[Project:Lockers]]|lockers for the Space
File:coming soon.svg|link=[[Project:3D Printed Boardgames]]|various 3D printed boardgames
</gallery>

=== Planned ===
* tons of [[Toys & Games|toys & games]] - often, but not always for the kids
* various other home & garden improvements
* retry [[Project:Schneckchen]] with laser cutting
* "Maker's mark" to brand or emboss my finished pieces
* experiments under the [[Precious Plastic]] umbrella
* [[welding]] more campfire and barbecue equipment
* [https://www.instructables.com/id/Pocket-Froe-a-Pocket-Friendly-Wood-Splitting-Tool/ froe] and three-way wedge for splitting wood
* marking knife, [https://ibuildit.ca/projects/knife-sharpener/ knife sharpener], parting tool & more out of old circular saw blades
* puzzle games like the [https://www.instructables.com/id/NUT-T-Coin-Trap/ "Nut-T Coin Trap"] that could be adjusted for laser cutting
* ...and ''too'' many more...

=== Other "Makes" ===
Here I'll collect some pictures where I didn't write a whole [[Projects|project page]] (yet?), e.g. if it was just my take on someone else's project or it's simple enough to be understood from one photo.
However, if you have any questions I'm always happy to help and could document more!

<gallery heights=100>
File:GutSTEIN + wax.jpg|laser engraved stone "gift card"
File:leftover stool.jpg|a simple stool cut from leftover IKEA pieces from [[Project:Lernturm]]
File:Kohlerost.jpg|charcoal grate [[welded]] from [[rebar]]
File:Kletter-Schlüsselbrett.jpg|key holder for climbing enthusiasts (inspired by [https://www.fujfuj.com/ fujfuj.com])
File:corner guard.jpg|corner guards (simple child's head savers that indestructively clamp on any shelf corner)
File:composting toilet from pallets.JPG|composting toilet built almost entirely from pallet wood and other [[recycled]] materials
File:Laser-Tigerente 5.jpg|laser engraved & waxed [[Tigerente]]
File:wood photo stand.png|simple but decorative holder for a [[Laser Engraving Photos|wooden photo]] out of leftovers from [[Project:TAC|my "TAC" boardgame]]
File:Nudelholz.jpeg|pasta roller for [[Patrick]]
File:Stehschreibtisch.JPG|standing desk upgrade to ''any'' desk (as long as you're tall or the screen is small enough)
File:Besteck-Uhr.jpg|clock from forks and spoons
File:schräge DVD-Regale.jpg|angled DVD shelves to display titles better while avoiding heavy stacks
File:Erdbeersäule2019.JPG|vertical strawberry farm
File:eukalyptus saw handle rough shape.JPG|saw handle out of leftovers from my [[Project:TAC|"TAC" boardgame]] - the naked blade cost me just a few cents
File:countersink wood drill bit holder.jpg|simple pouch to store & transport countersink [[Wood Drill Bits|wood drill bits]]
File:Bierbankrettung Loch zu.JPG|repair: got a "beer table" with a hole in it for next to 0 €, then plugged it with a custom cut piece of fir and sanded it flush after the [[Wood Glue|wood glue]] was dry
File:Birgitts bible covers.JPG|decorative bible covers I helped Birgitt make: [[Laser Cutting|laser engraved]] patterns and "holy" water/soil under [[Acrylic Glass|acrylic glass]]
</gallery>

== "Private" Pages ==
Feel free to read on if you feel like it, but these probably won't be interesting to you - more like notes to myself ;-)

* [[User:Lukas/Bench|''my workbench'']]
* [[User:Lukas/Werkzeug|''some of my tools'']]
* [[User:Lukas/Material|''materials I've kept for future projects'']]


[[Lends Tool::Chainsaw| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Fräser| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Schwingschleifer| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Werkzeug#Winkelschleifer| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Impact_Drill| ]]
[[Lends Tool::User:Lukas/Pyrography Burner| ]]

Grill

2026-05-31T10:14:46Z

Lukas: /* Weber Genesis E-320 LP Copper */ repair

== Weber Genesis E-320 LP Copper ==
* model number 6522001
* [https://digital-assets.weber.com/documents/56508.pdf?fm=pdf manual]
* [https://digital-assets.weber.com/documents/56432.pdf?fm=pdf instructions for regulator hose replacement]
* difficulty: US hose and thread sizes require special parts
** regulator: [https://www.amazon.com/ORIGPARTS-Regulator-Weber-Genesis-Summit/dp/B0CHYF9HQQ type 698] --> '''replaced''' 2026-5 because [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/423 the grill did not burn properly and left propane bottles half filled]

Category:Resins

2026-05-29T12:51:30Z

Lukas: *short* section about SLA resins

Resins (''Harze'') are commonly used in [[#Casting|casting]] or [[#SLA Printing|SLA 3D printing]].

== Casting ==
[[File:Embedded_Campari.jpg|thumb|150px|link=[[Project:Bottles Resin Embedding]]|Example project with clear resin]]
Synthetic resins are often transparent but you may achieve many cool effects by mixing in additives of your choice!

The commercial retailer "Soller Composites" gives a [http://www.sollercomposites.com/epoxyresinchoice.html short comparison of epoxy, vinylester and polyester resins] that may help you choose the proper resin for your project (they recommend epoxy for nearly every application, but do mention some downsides).

=== Sourcing ===
* [https://www.harzspezi.de/ Harzspezi.de]
* [https://www.timeout.de Time Out Composite oHG - Online-Shop]

== SLA Printing ==
Light-curable resins can be used for 3D printing by curing one layer at a time. [[SLA printers]] basically pull a solid object out of a vat of liquid resin selectively illuminated from below.

While we do not have such a printer at the Space (as of 2026-5), there are several members who have one at home.

[[Category:Chemicals]]
[[Category:Material Categories]]

Project talk:FDM Injection Molds

2026-05-29T12:49:38Z

Lukas: Lukas moved page Project talk:FDM Injection Molds to Project talk:3D Printed Injection Molds: expanding scope to FDM and SLA

#REDIRECT [[Project talk:3D Printed Injection Molds]]

Project talk:3D Printed Injection Molds

2026-05-29T12:49:38Z

Lukas: Lukas moved page Project talk:FDM Injection Molds to Project talk:3D Printed Injection Molds: expanding scope to FDM and SLA

== SLA material ==

you wrote that resins would be too expensive. For example this [https://www.3djake.de/3djake/high-temperature-resin-transparent-schwarz?sai=19100 high temp resin] "only" costs ~50€/kg which is not that much more than 1k of PHA (~34€) while it should withstand 180 °C and produce better/cleaner results. [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]] ([[User talk:LabCrow|talk]]) 10:03, 4 May 2026 (CEST)

:Thanks, the prices seem to be quite volatile? One of my resources recommended Phrozen TR300 and I could only find it for way above 100 €/L at the time, but now I see it for 77 € on [https://schichtwerkstatt.de/3d-druck/resin-fluessigpolymer/282/1l-phrozen-tr300-ultra-high-temp-resin schichtwerkstatt.de].
:My second obstacle of course is access to an SLA printer - would you be willing to give some of my models a try if I supply the resin? [[User:Lukas|Lukas]] ([[User talk:Lukas|talk]]) 13:38, 6 May 2026 (CEST)
::Of cource, I can do that [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]] ([[User talk:LabCrow|talk]]) 19:37, 6 May 2026 (CEST)

== Frame ==

As written in the page for PHA (but not for this project?), there is a need for a stabilizing frame (wood/aluminum). Wouldn't it be possible to produce a suitable aluminum frame with our CNC mill? This would also help with the cooling of the mold compared to wood and reduce the time needed between injections. [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]] ([[User talk:LabCrow|talk]]) 10:05, 4 May 2026 (CEST)

:Yeah, such a frame is planned but so far I've just been testing molds with a large machine vice and clamps. Same effect, a bit more fiddling around, but okay for the beginning ;-)
:Unfortunately the overheating problem I described happens inside the mold, so a "cooling" frame would not really be possible. [[User:Lukas|Lukas]] ([[User talk:Lukas|talk]]) 13:40, 6 May 2026 (CEST)

Project:FDM Injection Molds

2026-05-29T12:49:38Z

Lukas: Lukas moved page Project:FDM Injection Molds to Project:3D Printed Injection Molds: expanding scope to FDM and SLA

#REDIRECT [[Project:3D Printed Injection Molds]]

Project:3D Printed Injection Molds

2026-05-29T12:49:38Z

Lukas: Lukas moved page Project:FDM Injection Molds to Project:3D Printed Injection Molds: expanding scope to FDM and SLA

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=3D Printed Plastic Injection Molds
|image=
|status=first steps
|date=spring 2026
|initiator=[[Lukas]]
|team=
|materials=[[PHA]], [[PP]], [[PE]]
|tools=FDM [[3D Printers|3D printers]], "HoliPress" manual injection press
|software=[[OnShape]], [[Tinkercad]]
|cost=
}}
I am experimenting with FDM 3D printed injection molds for [[PP]], [[PE]] and perhaps other plastics and will try to keep track of the progress on this page. Yes, seriously: molds made from thermoplastics to be filled with (other) hot thermoplastics without melting! Although [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:796654 hot glue molds] can be a fun way of teaching the principle as well, this opens up new DIY recycling opportunities.

Please reach out if you have any questions that are not (yet) covered below or would like to try it yourself.

== Mold Material ==
When I first got into the topic I thought I would finally have to go through the trouble and learn SLA printing with some nasty high-performance resins that cost as much as an entry level printer these days, but luckily I found the recently launched [https://www.youtube.com/@futurethingsau "future things" YouTube channel] where FDM printed molds were demonstrated. As a massive bonus, the material used is actually compostable!

The magic ingredient turned out to be [[PHA]] (polyhydroxyalkanoate) which is only sold for 3D printing by a handful of filament suppliers. Hopefully this niche market will expand as more people get to know the stuff!

After battling its notoriously weird warping behavior, the material can be printed on any FDM printer and appears to hold what was promised: due to its relatively high heat deflection temperature, it looks just as on the first day after a couple of injections with molten [[PP]] (160 °C).

''also see [[Material:PHA]]''

== Mold Design ==
''Work in progress''

The first test mold was purchased from [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/printable-moulds Sustainable Design Studio] as a ready-to-print STL so I could quickly get a proof of principle. But of course, that can only be where the journey begins and custom designs are in order!

'''Design aids:'''
* [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/moulds-design3d Sustainable Design Studio: How to Design 3D Printed Molds]
** tutorial for creating a mold in [[Autodesk Fusion]] (largely the same for [[OnShape]])
** covers basic design strategies for FDM and SLA printing
* [https://mold.actionbox.ca/ ActionBox Mold Maker]
** automatic mold generator for models that fit into the fixed 69{{x}}88{{x}}48 mm template
** decent for first feasability tests of other sizes as well (scale down & generate dummy to analyze demoldability etc)
** seems to have problems with highly asymmetric parts/split lines
** exporting costs $$
* [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581 Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD] on Thingiverse
** looks promising, but not maintained for several years
** does NOT work in the Thingiverse customizer, but has to be run in a local OpenSCAD instance to load STL input from your PC
** place the desired STL in the same folder as the SCAD script and change "model filename" to your STL's name without any path (e.g. <code>sample-input.stl</code>)

'''not suitable:'''
* [https://moldmakerai.com/ Mold Maker AI]
** beta version as of 2026-3 - see if you can spot it... [[File:crappy AI injection mold.png|thumb|left|100 px|not every AI deserves the "I"]] 
* [https://moldmaker.vercel.app/ 3D Mold Maker]
** generates mold shells that may be suitable for some casting techniques, but not injection molding

== Results ==
First results were promising, but certainly also left room for improvements.

=== Beginner Mistakes ===
* '''residual heat:''' a mold that is still warm from the previous injection may fail! More top layers should help with this, but make sure you allow for some cooldown time
* '''air release:''' you may only get partial injections due to air pressure building up inside the mold - air gaps need to be surprisingly large, I had success with nearly 2 mm² cross-sections
* '''uneven clamping:''' the injected plastic will try to "open" the mold. Clamping it only in one place, even if it is the center, may not be sufficient (metal "cage" reinforments are planned)

=== Success ===
* no mold release spray was necessary so far
* molds close nicely (sometimes even too tight, see [[#Beginner Mistakes]])

''to be continued (hopefully)''

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Design]]
[[Category:Precious Plastic]]
[[Category:Recycling]]

Material:Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra White

2026-05-29T12:43:17Z

Lukas: categories

{{MaterialInfoBox|material name=Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra White|image=Siraya tech sculpt ultra white cube.jpg|synonyms=high temp resin|used with=[[Isopropanol]]|tools=[[SLA printers]]}}

This material is a high temperature resistant and mechanically strong [[SLA Resin|SLA resin]] from Siraya Tech. It's main feature is the very high HDT (heat deflection temperature) of 250℃ at 0.455 MPa. It also has cheaper variants with a smaller HDT of around 180°C (also at 0.455 MPa).

== Printing ==
While Siraya Tech [https://sirayatech.myshopify.com/pages/print-settings-download?shpxid=d510cf5b-37db-42ad-83e5-75a890ba4966 offers] print profiles for their resins,

tests with an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra show better results (higher dimensional accuracy and faster print time) using the following settings:
[[File:Siraya tech sculpt ultra white print settings optimized.png|center|thumb|500x500px|blue was changed compared to original settings]]

== Post Processing ==
The [https://sirayatech.myshopify.com/pages/sculpt-user-guide?shpxid=3ef6da0d-732d-4262-9c8c-89c7c6adfc1e user guide] from the manufacturer recommends:

# 2-3 min in 95% ethanol or IPA (may use a real hair brush)
# 10 min UV curing after drying. Tests showed good results with change in orientation between 5 min intervals.

[[Category:Resins]]
[[Category:SLA]]

Material:Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra White

2026-05-29T12:41:52Z

Lukas: Lukas moved page Material:Seriya Tech Sculpt Ultra White to Material:Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra White without leaving a redirect: Misspelled title

{{MaterialInfoBox|material name=Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra White|image=Siraya tech sculpt ultra white cube.jpg|synonyms=high temp resin|used with=[[Isopropanol]]|tools=[[SLA printers]]}}

This material is a high temperature resistant and mechanically strong resin from Siraya Tech. It's main feature is the very high HDT (heat deflection temperature) of 250℃ at 0.455 MPa. It also has cheaper variants with a smaller HDT of around 180°C (also at 0.455 MPa).

== Printing ==
While Siraya Tech [https://sirayatech.myshopify.com/pages/print-settings-download?shpxid=d510cf5b-37db-42ad-83e5-75a890ba4966 offers] print profiles for their resins,

tests with an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra show better results (higher dimensional accuracy and faster print time) using the following settings:
[[File:Siraya tech sculpt ultra white print settings optimized.png|center|thumb|500x500px|blue was changed compared to original settings]]

== Post Processing ==
The [https://sirayatech.myshopify.com/pages/sculpt-user-guide?shpxid=3ef6da0d-732d-4262-9c8c-89c7c6adfc1e user guide] from the manufacturer recommends:

# 2-3 min in 95% ethanol or IPA (may use a real hair brush)
# 10 min UV curing after drying. Tests showed good results with change in orientation between 5 min intervals.

File:Featherboard correctuse.jpg

2026-05-26T21:33:39Z

Lukas: Lukas uploaded a new version of File:Featherboard correctuse.jpg

File:Featherboards routertable dualuse.jpg

2026-05-26T21:30:45Z

Lukas: Lukas uploaded a new version of File:Featherboards routertable dualuse.jpg

Samsung NB69R2301RS

2026-05-24T18:32:17Z

Lukas: /* Samsung NB69R2301RS */

==Samsung NB69R2301RS==
This oven is only to be used for heating food!

{{MachineInfoBox|machine name=Samsung NB69R2301RS|german=Backofen|image=Samsung NB69R2301RS.jpg|synonyms=Built-in oven with cooktop|type=Oven|material=pizza|used with=[[Project:Pizza Peel]]|manual=[https://org.downloadcenter.samsung.com/downloadfile/ContentsFile.aspx?CDSite=UNI_DE&OriginYN=N&ModelType=N&ModelName=NB69R2301RS%2FEG&CttFileID=8320952&CDCttType=UM&VPath=UM%2F202109%2F20210930093933134%2FNB69R33_RS_NB69R23_RS_EN_52373471_210928.pdf Samsung]|assetid=176|status=Operational}}

=== Troubleshooting ==

* display flashes, but the oven stays cold: the power may have been lost, set the time and try again

Ofen

2026-05-24T18:30:33Z

Lukas: Redirected page to Oven

#redirect[[Oven]]

Bottom Bracket Tool

2026-05-16T21:38:42Z

Lukas:

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Bottom Bracket Tool
|german=Tretlagerwerkzeug
|image=8105c641-d64f-44c0-8ed0-53f940242d32.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Tretlagerwerkzeug
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Bike Lounge]]
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}
A bottom bracket tool is a special tool needed on a bicycle to remove, install, or service the bottom bracket ''(Tretlager)''.

[[Category:Cycling]]

Category:Abrasive Blasting

2026-05-08T11:16:30Z

Lukas: aka media blasting

Abrasive blasting or '''media blasting''' (a.k.a. "sandblasting"/''"Sandstrahlen"'', but never actually use sand as [[Material:Blast Media|blast media]]!) is a technique where you basically shoot your workpiece with countless tiny abrasive particles.

You could potentially do it '''outside''' with just a [[compressor]] and an appropriate blasting gun, but our [[Blast Cabinet|blast cabinet]] provides a much safer, cleaner and more effective option if the workpiece is small enough.

== Further Reading ==
* Wikipedia
** [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abrasive_blasting abrasive blasting]
** ''[https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandstrahlen Sandstrahlen (DE)]''

[[Category:Main Category]]

Reciprocating Saw Introduction

2026-05-07T12:01:48Z

Lukas: Tutor Luca

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Reciprocating Saw| reciprocating saw]] and [[Introduction for::jigsaws]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Sebastian|Sebastian]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]], [[Tutor::User:Baumphil|Philip]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the corresponding tool's manual:
* [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1125358/Bosch-Pfz-700-Pe.html Bosch PFZ 700 PE]
* [http://www.lidl-service.com/static/134937369/114249_DE.pdf Parkside PSTD 800 A1]
* [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1115989/Bosch-Pst-650-Pe.html Bosch PST 750 PE]
* [https://www.icmsmakita.eu/CMS/custom/fi/attachments/user_manuals/User_manuals_EU2/DJV181.pdf Makita DJV181]

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]][[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50x50px]]

''Additional protection for toxic or allergenic woods (especially hardwoods, e.g. beech and oak - see "[[dust]]") or for certain surface finishes or chemicals:'' [[File:Protection - breathing.svg|50x50px]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| sharp oscillating blade - possible kickback ||
* you MUST NOT turn on the saw when the blade is already touching something (e.g. the workpiece)
* you MUST let the baseplate touch the workpiece before starting to cut
* blind cut: leave the sawblade in the cut until it has stopped
* through cut: make sure the blade has stopped moving before putting the saw back on the table
* you MUST make sure the blade path is free and you won't cut into the table or similar
* you MUST make sure the blade is long enough so that it can reach through the material when fully retracted (too short a blade relative to the material being cut will cause dangerous kickback)
* you MUST make sure there are no obstacles such as nails in your path before starting a cut
* you MUST secure the workpiece with [[clamps]] so nothing shifts and nothing large falls down once the cut is made
|-
| generates dust and small chips ||
* you MUST wear [[goggles]]
* you SHOULD hook up the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] (and deactivate the "dust blow" function of the saw, if available)
* if your workpiece is contaminated with chemicals or made from hard woods like beech ''(Buche)'' or oak ''(Eiche)'', you SHOULD use a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]]
|-
| generates noise ||
* you MUST wear [[Ear Defenders|ear defenders]]
|-
|
the blade can get very hot
* remains hot for a while after using
|| when you see smoke, immediately stop and inspect the saw - the blade might be dull or jammed in the workpiece. Also do not stay in the same place for too long!
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_sudden_start.svg|left|50px]] no prevention of turning on after loss & restoration of power (''keine Anlaufsicherung'') ||
* you MUST make sure the locking button is "off" before plugging the saw in (the trigger should move freely)
|}

== Demonstration ==
During the introduction, the tutor will show you the following:
* inserting/removing saw blades
* choosing and changing the pendulum or orbital action settings (Bosch PFZ 700 PE: chapter 7 in the manual)

Besides these safety notes, you should know which type of blade is suitable for the material you want to cut!

[[Category:Introductions]]

Grill

2026-05-06T23:07:38Z

Lukas: /* Weber Genesis E-320 LP Copper */ regulator

Grill

2026-05-06T22:56:02Z

Lukas: Created page with "== Weber Genesis E-320 LP Copper == * model number 6522001 * [https://digital-assets.weber.com/documents/56508.pdf?fm=pdf manual] * [https://digital-assets.weber.com/documents/56432.pdf?fm=pdf instructions for regulator hose replacement] * difficulty: US hose and thread sizes require special parts"

Category:3D Printing

2026-05-06T11:45:04Z

Lukas: formatting/headline order

You can learn 3D printing using our [[3D Printers]]! The term "3D printing" is actually quite vague and is used to describe various technologies which are defined by currently [https://techcrunch.com/2016/05/15/how-expiring-patents-are-ushering-in-the-next-generation-of-3d-printing/ expiring patents]. We will list some common ones below as we gather more experience.

If you are new to the subject, this [https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing introductory guide] by 3D Hubs is worth a read! An overview of the parts is given in this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZi3esvQ02w 3D printer anatomy] video.

You may also find our collection of [[3D Printing Ideas|3D printing ideas]] interesting. Did you know one of our printers can [[Multi-Material Printing|print several colors/materials at once]]?

There are two big German speaking communities: [http://3d-druck-community.de/ 3D-Druck-Community] and the [http://forums.reprap.org/index.php?236 German Reprap forum] (many English subforums available, too).

== Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF/FDM) ==
All of our printers work by depositing '''molten''' plastic layer upon layer, a process which is called ''Fused Filament Fabrication'' (FFF) in the open source [http://reprap.org/ RepRap] community or ''Fused Deposition Modelling'' (FDM) in most commercial contexts. We support the idea of open source fabrication and therefore call it FFF in this wiki.

=== Advantages ===

* fast creation of prototypes or finished models
* easy to use (also for inexperienced people)
* simple post processing if any
* various materials possible

=== Limits ===
* '''no printing in the air'''
"Islands" of the model that start without any material contacting it can't be placed since there is nothing to hold onto. In these cases a sacrificial support structure has to be printed first. These structures are also needed when the overhang of a slope becomes too steep (around 45 °C for most materials and machines) or when printing a horizontal bridge. Better cooling and adjustments to speed and flow rate can improve the performance. In the best case support structures can be avoided since they add material cost, print time and can be a real pain to remove depending on the location and settings for the contact layer.
* '''nozzle size determines the maximum achievable resolution'''
:The line width doesn't need to be the exact size of the nozzle since over/under extrusion through speed and flow rate can also influence the line width. The layer height can also be adjusted inside the slicer. Nonetheless, smaller/bigger nozzles extend the range possible and make it easier to harness the advantages such as e.g. stronger parts with a 0.6 mm nozzle.
:Currently, all our printers are equipped with 0.4 mm nozzles.
:* '''anisotropic'''
The model is stronger in the layer direction compared to the connection between the layers. This connection also makes the model not permanently water proof.

== Stereolithography (SLA) ==
None of the current printers in the space work with this technology but some members own such a machine (e.g. [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]]).

They work similar to FFF/FDM printer since they also produce the model layer by layer. In this case the used material is not a thermoplastic but a photosensitive resin that is '''polymerized''' through UV from a high resolution display enabling higher accuracy and the print of finer details. The hardened material is moved with the buildplate from the display so that new resin can fill the gap and create the fresh layer.

=== Advantages ===

* higher accuracy and print resolution
* faster prints possible since a whole layer is printed at the same time
* properties of duroplasts and similar to vulcanized elastomers possible
* isotropic
* waterproof

=== Limits ===

* '''smaller build area/ volume'''

Since there needs to be a high resolution display across the whole print area, the print volumes is generally smaller than FFF/FDM machines, or dramatically more expensive.

* '''no printing in the air'''

"Islands" of the model that start without any material contacting it can't be printed since there is nothing to remove it from the display. In these cases a sacrificial support structure has to be printed first. These structures are also needed when the overhang of a slope becomes too steep (around 45 °C for most materials and machines) or when printing a horizontal bridge. It is best to avoid support structures since they add material cost and can be a real pain to remove depending on the location (be wary of "jumping" parts).

* '''post processing'''

Because a liquid material is used the model needs to be cleaned and cured (UV post processing) to harden the surface. This post processing is, besides the unpleasant smell, the reason why it's not used in the space.

* '''no infill'''

While FFF/FDM can use infill inside solid parts, the liquid could not escape from these cavities so only true solids or hollowed objects can be printed. The later is preferred because too thick of a print can warp and crack and uses a lot of material.

== Recommended Literature ==

* [https://www.3dhubs.com/guides/3d-printing/ 3D printing guide] by 3D Hubs
* [https://www.prusa3d.com/ebook-basics-of-3d-printing-with-josef-prusa/ Basics of 3D printing] by Josef Prusa (ebook)
* [https://www1.onleihe.de/metropolbib/frontend/mediaInfo,0-0-362712300-100-0-0-0-0-0-0-0.html 3D-Druck für alle] by Florian Horsch from Heidelberg
* [https://bambulab.com/de-de/support/academy Bambu Lab Academy] by Bambu Lab

[[Category:CNC]]

Project talk:3D Printed Injection Molds

2026-05-06T11:40:48Z

Lukas: /* Frame */ Reply

== SLA material ==

you wrote that resins would be too expensive. For example this [https://www.3djake.de/3djake/high-temperature-resin-transparent-schwarz?sai=19100 high temp resin] "only" costs ~50€/kg which is not that much more than 1k of PHA (~34€) while it should withstand 180 °C and produce better/cleaner results. [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]] ([[User talk:LabCrow|talk]]) 10:03, 4 May 2026 (CEST)

:Thanks, the prices seem to be quite volatile? One of my resources recommended Phrozen TR300 and I could only find it for way above 100 €/L at the time, but now I see it for 77 € on [https://schichtwerkstatt.de/3d-druck/resin-fluessigpolymer/282/1l-phrozen-tr300-ultra-high-temp-resin schichtwerkstatt.de].
:My second obstacle of course is access to an SLA printer - would you be willing to give some of my models a try if I supply the resin? [[User:Lukas|Lukas]] ([[User talk:Lukas|talk]]) 13:38, 6 May 2026 (CEST)

== Frame ==

As written in the page for PHA (but not for this project?), there is a need for a stabilizing frame (wood/aluminum). Wouldn't it be possible to produce a suitable aluminum frame with our CNC mill? This would also help with the cooling of the mold compared to wood and reduce the time needed between injections. [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]] ([[User talk:LabCrow|talk]]) 10:05, 4 May 2026 (CEST)

:Yeah, such a frame is planned but so far I've just been testing molds with a large machine vice and clamps. Same effect, a bit more fiddling around, but okay for the beginning ;-)
:Unfortunately the overheating problem I described happens inside the mold, so a "cooling" frame would not really be possible. [[User:Lukas|Lukas]] ([[User talk:Lukas|talk]]) 13:40, 6 May 2026 (CEST)

Project talk:3D Printed Injection Molds

2026-05-06T11:38:22Z

Lukas: /* SLA material */ Reply

== SLA material ==

you wrote that resins would be too expensive. For example this [https://www.3djake.de/3djake/high-temperature-resin-transparent-schwarz?sai=19100 high temp resin] "only" costs ~50€/kg which is not that much more than 1k of PHA (~34€) while it should withstand 180 °C and produce better/cleaner results. [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]] ([[User talk:LabCrow|talk]]) 10:03, 4 May 2026 (CEST)

:Thanks, the prices seem to be quite volatile? One of my resources recommended Phrozen TR300 and I could only find it for way above 100 €/L at the time, but now I see it for 77 € on [https://schichtwerkstatt.de/3d-druck/resin-fluessigpolymer/282/1l-phrozen-tr300-ultra-high-temp-resin schichtwerkstatt.de].
:My second obstacle of course is access to an SLA printer - would you be willing to give some of my models a try if I supply the resin? [[User:Lukas|Lukas]] ([[User talk:Lukas|talk]]) 13:38, 6 May 2026 (CEST)

== Frame ==

As written in the page for PHA (but not for this project?), there is a need for a stabilizing frame (wood/aluminum). Wouldn't it be possible to produce a suitable aluminum frame with our CNC mill? This would also help with the cooling of the mold compared to wood and reduce the time needed between injections. [[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]] ([[User talk:LabCrow|talk]]) 10:05, 4 May 2026 (CEST)

3D Printer Introduction

2026-04-29T23:53:14Z

Lukas: Tutor LabCrow

''(deutsche Version: [[3D-Drucker-Einweisung]] - Änderungen wenn möglich auch dort eintragen!)''

This is the content required for an introduction to our FFF (fused filament fabrication) [[Introduction for::3D Printer]]s - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this Introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Leo|Leo]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Narquadah|Kim]], [[Tutor::User:Ciaran|Ciaran]], [[Tutor::User:Björn|Björn]], [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]], [[Tutor::User:MobiTobi|MobiTobi]], [[Tutor::User:LabCrow|LabCrow]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you are aware of the [[3D Printers#General Usage Guidelines|3D printers' general usage guidelines]] and have read the [http://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2s_en.pdf printers' manual].

== Safety ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
|
[[File:Danger_-_heat.svg|left|50px]] exposed heated parts - may still be hot if the display is already turned off!
* nozzle (over 200 °C)
* print bed (up to 100 °C)
|| do not touch these parts when the printer is or has recently been running
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_hand injury.svg|left|50px]] rapidly moving mechanical parts || do not reach into the print area while in operation!
|-
|
* machine may keep executing its commands after something went wrong
** every move is based on the initial homing ("zero-ing")
** no sensing of obstacles or current position!
||
* closely watch the homing process and the initial layer before leaving the printer alone
* stay within the CoMakingSpace for the duration of your print and occasionally have a look at how it's going
** if you need to leave for a while, pause the print or ask someone to supervise it
** there is no need to sit in front of the machine all the time, just '''do not leave the Space!'''
|-
| when removing support material, small plastic parts can fly everywhere || wear eye protection when removing support material
|}

=== How to Stop ===
Here are your options, depending on how fast you have to be:
* FAST - the printer is crashing/heading for an obstacle/making weird noises/going up in smoke?
** press the "X" button on the control panel (will reset the printer, everything freezes but the fans stay on)
** via the control panel, move up (Z +) so the nozzle gets out of the part that failed
** if you can't identify '''exactly''' what went wrong and how to fix it, talk to a [[tutor]] before attempting the print again

* SLOW - you're not happy with the way your print is turning out?
** via the control panel, select <code>ABORT PRINT</code>
** change the [[:Category:Slicers|print settings]] you think were responsible and try again (best keep the failed part for reference!)
** if there is a removable mistake that isn't critical yet, you could also <code>PAUSE PRINT</code> and try to fix it

== Control Panel ==
Push the dial to enter the menu and as an "Enter" button, turn to scroll through lists of settings - the details about this are found in the [http://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2s_en.pdf printers' manual].

Be aware that changes via the control panel do not have an immediate effect, but a few lines of code may still be executed from the machine's buffer!

== Changing Filament ==
The filament change on our printers is done ''semi'' automatically via the control panel. It usually works quite well but we will demonstrate it as part of the introduction. Before putting in a new spool, make sure you know what type of [[plastic]] it is and what to look out for (e.g. different nozzle temperature, flexibility).

Some materials are currently not printable because they require temperatures our setup won't reach or they would produce noxious fumes. '''Only use the filament provided in the 3D printer farm!'''

== Nozzle size ==
Printers can have different nozzle sizes installed make sure you select the machine profile with the corresponding nozzle size in the slicer.

== Suggested Reading ==
To increase your success rate, you should also read the pages about [[3D Printing|3D printing in general]], [[3D Printer Bed Preparation|bed preparation]], [[filament]] and [[:Category:Slicers|slicing]]. Don't beat yourself up if you still have some failed prints - it happens to very experienced users now and then ;-)

{{Waiting List}}

{{#set:
| checklist_title=3D-Printer
| checklist_symbols=W017
| checklist_symbols=W024
| checklist_link=https://wiki.comakingspace.de/3D_Printer_Introduction
| checklist_before=**Must** remove any debris/leftover prints from bed
| checklist_before=**Should** clean bed (e.g. with isopropanol)
| checklist_during=**Must** observe 1st layer
| checklist_during=**Must not** leave the workshop during the print; check regularly
| checklist_after=**Must** remove filament from extruder (may break off if left)
| checklist_after=**Must** let nozzle cool down before turning off printer
| checklist_after=**Should** turn off slicer PC if not needed
}}

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Introductions]]

P10

2026-04-29T23:51:03Z

Lukas: Redirected page to Prusa i3 MK3S (1)

#redirect[[Prusa i3 MK3S (1)]]

P11

2026-04-29T23:47:49Z

Lukas: Redirected page to Prusa i3 MK3S (2)

#redirect[[Prusa i3 MK3S (2)]]

User:Gurkensaft

2026-04-29T15:47:55Z

Lukas: moved changes attempted on template page

{{UserInfoBox
|real_name= Micha
|image=
|interests= Working with wood, Sports, creativity
|projects= Building a boat
|email= micharees@gmx.de
|website=
|instagram=
|twitter=
|github=
|printables=
|thingiverse=
|telegram=
}}

Hello! This page was automatically created on my first login.

If you wish to contact me, please navigate to [[Special:EmailUser/{{PAGENAME}}]].

''@{{PAGENAME}}: feel free to delete this standard text when you want to properly introduce yourself ;-) We are looking forward to seeing what you're making!''

Template:UserInfoBox

2026-04-29T15:47:16Z

Lukas: Reverted edit by Gurkensaft (talk) to last revision by Lukas

<noinclude>
{{UserInfoBox
|real_name=Maker
|pronouns=any/any
|image=
|expertise=
|interests=[[Projects|everything]]
|projects=
|email=
|website=[https://www.comakingspace.org www.comakingspace.org]
|instagram=comakingspace
|twitter=comakingspace
|github=comakingspace
|printables=
|thingiverse=
|telegram=[[Telegram Group]]
}}
The idea of this [[InfoBoxes|InfoBox]] is to display user information in an organized way. It may remind you of the printouts on our [[Members Wall]] - if not, you should probably head over there and print one for yourself ;-)

Feel free to add some information about yourself and just leave out any entry you don't want to show.

== Documentation ==
To use this template, simply copy this code into your page, add the values, or delete lines you don't want to fill out.

Some lines are "smart", i.e. you only have to enter your Twitter username and a link is created automatically. As always, make good use of the "Show preview" function to make sure it works as you expected.
<pre>
{{UserInfoBox
|real_name=
|pronouns=
|image=
|expertise=
|interests=
|projects=
|email=
|website=
|instagram=
|twitter=
|github=
|printables=
|thingiverse=
|telegram=
}}
</pre>

[[Category:Community]]
</noinclude>

{| class="wikitable" style="float:right; margin-left: 10px; border-style: solid; border-width: 5px; border-color: #00773D"
!colspan="2"|[[Template:UserInfoBox|UserInfoBox]] 
<big>'''Quick Info'''</big>
|-
{{#if: {{{image|}}}|
{{!}}-
!colspan="2"{{!}} [[File:{{{image}}}|frameless|200px]]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{real_name|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Name:
{{!}} {{{real_name}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{pronouns|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Pronouns:
{{!}} {{{pronouns}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{expertise|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Expertise:
{{!}} {{{expertise}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{interests|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Interests:
{{!}} {{{interests}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{projects|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Project(s):
{{!}} {{{projects}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{email|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} eMail:
{{!}} {{{email}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{website|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Website:
{{!}} {{{website}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{instagram|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Instagram:
{{!}} [https://www.instagram.com/{{{instagram}}} {{{instagram}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{twitter|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Twitter:
{{!}} [https://twitter.com/{{{twitter}}} {{{twitter}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{github|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} GitHub:
{{!}} [https://github.com/{{{github}}}/ {{{github}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{printables|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Printables:
{{!}} [https://www.printables.com/@{{{printables}}}/ {{{printables}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{thingiverse|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Thingiverse:
{{!}} [https://www.thingiverse.com/{{{thingiverse}}}/ {{{thingiverse}}}]
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{telegram|}}}|
{{!}}-
{{!}} Telegram:
{{!}} {{{telegram}}}
|}}
|}
<noinclude>
== Template Parameters ==
<templatedata>
{
"params": {
"image": {
"label": "Your image",
"description": "Feel free to add an image of yourself so that others can recognize you more easily",
"type": "wiki-file-name",
"suggested": true
},
"real_name": {
"label": "Name",
"description": "The name you would like others to use when approaching you",
"example": "Jane",
"type": "string",
"required": true
},
"pronouns": {
"label": "Pronouns",
"description": "The pronouns you would like others to use when approaching you",
"example": "they/them",
"type": "string",
"suggested": true
},
"expertise": {
"label": "Your expertise",
"description": "Is there anything you are particularly good at? Just name it!",
"type": "string",
"suggested": true
},
"interests": {
"label": "Your interests",
"description": "Is there anything you are interested in / want to learn? Just name it!",
"type": "string",
"suggested": true
},
"projects": {
"label": "Your Projects",
"description": "Here you can link any project you have done. Whether it was at the CoMakingSpace or somewhere else, let us know!",
"type": "string"
},
"email": {
"label": "E-Mail",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your e-mail adress to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"website": {
"label": "Website",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your website to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"instagram": {
"label": "Instagram",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your instagram handle to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"twitter": {
"label": "Twitter",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your twitter handle to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"github": {
"label": "GitHub",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your GitHub name to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"printables": {
"label": "Printables",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your Printables nick to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"thingiverse": {
"label": "Thingiverse",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your thingiverse nick to others here.",
"type": "string"
},
"telegram": {
"label": "Telegram",
"description": "If you like, you can indicate your telegram handle to others here.",
"type": "string"
}
},
"description": "Adds an InfoBox to display user information in an organized way. It may remind you of the printouts on our Members Wall - if not, you should probably head over there and print one for yourself ;-)",
"paramOrder": [
"real_name",
"pronouns",
"image",
"expertise",
"interests",
"projects",
"email",
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"instagram",
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"printables",
"thingiverse",
"telegram"
]
}
</templatedata>
</noinclude>

Sliding Table Saw Introduction

2026-04-24T06:29:13Z

Lukas: Tutor Björn

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Sliding Table Saw]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:LeoF|LeoF]], [[Tutor::User:Nibuzz|Nils]], [[Tutor::User:Björn|Björn]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's [[Sliding Table Saw|wiki page]] and manual.

==Safety==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - no gloves.svg|50px]]

A [[Dust Masks|dust mask]] may also be necessary depending on the material you are cutting!

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Dangers!!Precautions
|-
| sharp and rotating exposed blade, with chances of flesh wounds and missing limbs
*will keep spinning for a bit after turning the power off!
||
*your hands need to stay well clear (at least 120 mm) of the blade at all times
**use a [[Push Sticks|push stick]] or [[Fritz & Franz]] if you have something ''small'' to cut (below 240 mm width)!
**use Fritz & Franz and use the low edge of the parallel fence if you have something ''very small'' to cut (below 30 mm width)!
*do not use the sliding table saw when you are alone in the Space, you might need another Maker to call help in case of an accident
**make yourself familiar with [[Amputate Bags|amputate bags]] for the worst case
*height of the blade: make an informed decision
**high blade: cuts "down", not pushing against you - makes the saw easier to use and leads to less of a difference between cut distances on top and bottom BUT it exposes a lot of the dangerous blade
**low blade: lower risk of serious injury (could cut into your finger, not as easily ''trough'' it) but you have to push the workpiece harder
*use the top blade guard whenever it is not hindering your cut - it should be fixed so its bottom edge is horizontal and just above the workpiece
*avoid draw in danger by not wearing loose clothes, dangling jewellery or open long hair
|-
|kickback - if the workpiece is pressed against the blade's side, it can be thrown towards the operator!
*check out [https://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4?t=150 this video on YouTube] to see what that looks like
||
[[File:Sliding table plus fence - wrong.png|thumb|150px|right|DO NOT use sliding table + parallel fence at once!]]
*never constrain the workpiece in more than one direction during the cut - use fixtures on the sliding table OR the parallel fence (alternatively: parallel fence pulled out far enough that it '''ends before the blade''')
** lock the sliding table in place when you do want to use the parallel fence as your guide
[[File:Sliding table, fence pulled back.png|thumb|150px|right|you may pull the parallel fence all the way back so it ends before the blade]]
*never remove the riving knife ("splitter") and check its alignment before every use of the saw
**needs to be exactly in line with the saw blade
**distance to the teeth should be about 5 mm along the entire edge
*never cut without a stable fence/jig
** use the [[Edging Shoes|edging shoes]] to hold thick or warped boards that [[Fritz & Franz]] would not hold securely
*make sure the parallel fence is in fact parallel or angled ever so slightly ''away'' from the blade
*do not cut several pieces on top of each other!
*pull the parallel fence out when cutting solid wood ''(Massivholz)'' - that way, there is room for tensions to be released after the cut (second half of the blade should stand "free") [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhnIqY3Fqqg&t=1m35s]
*stand on the side of the machine where you can support the main part of your workpiece (usually the left)
*give the saw time to start up before touching the blade with your workpiece!
* warn others that may stand in the "flight path" behind the machine and ask them to move somewhere else while you are cutting
|-
|sawdust and small splinters can fly towards the operator||
*wear [[goggles]]
*use the [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]] and - whenever possible - the top blade guard (sucks up dust as well!)
*wear a [[Dust Masks|dust mask]] depending on the material you are cutting
|}

==Suggested Reading==
*[https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/060-arbeiten-an-formatkreissaegemaschinen BGHM: Arbeitsschutz kompakt - Arbeiten an Formatkreissägemaschinen (DE)]

==Demonstration==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
*show & explain the nearest [[Amputate Bag|amputate bag]]
*check connection to the dust extraction
*how to use "[[Fritz & Franz]]" and [[Edging Shoes]]
*how to set up the stop on the crosscut fence
*how to set up the parallel fence
** always has to end in front of the blade when fixing a board on the sliding table, e.g. with Fritz & Franz!
*how to lock the sliding table in place when you want to use the parallel fence in an extended position (or after you are done using the saw)
*how to adjust blade height and angle (if angle is changed: return to '''exactly''' 90° by means of a [[square]] or [[inclinometer]]!)
*how to turn on the machine
*how to use the emergency stops
*perform practice cut(s)
*how to clean the machine after your work is done

{{Waiting List}}
[[Category:Introductions]]

Elektra Beckum PK 255

2026-04-22T23:38:05Z

Lukas: /* Fences & Jigs */ sliding table disassembled

==Elektra Beckum PK 255==

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Elektra Beckum PK 255
|german=Tischkreissäge
|image=Elektra Beckum PK 255.jpg
|synonyms=sawbench, bench saw; DE: Tischkreissäge, TKS, Baukreissäge, Baustellenkreissäge, stationäre Kreissäge; ''nearly identical: Metabo PK 255''
|type=Table Saw
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=[[wood]]
|used with=[[Push Sticks|push sticks]], [[Circular Saw Blades|circular saw blades]], [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]], [[inclinometer]], '''[[Table Saw Jigs|table saw jigs]]'''
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46190/Elektra-Beckum-Topline-Pk-255.html manualslib.com]
|assetid=18|similar=[[Handheld Circular Saw|handheld circular saw]], [[Chop Saw|chop saw]]
|status=working
}}

=== Dust Extraction ===
Hook up the [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]] every time you use the saw, and use the top blade guard whenever possible (it would get in the way when making hidden cuts or using the [[#Crosscut Sled|crosscut sled]], but is useful in all other cases)!

=== Saw Blades ===
This machine uses [[Circular Saw Blades|circular saw blades]] with 250 mm OD/30 mm ID. Since 2022, we are using a 60-tooth "universal" blade by Freud. [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/260]

You'll need a large wrench for the arbor nut: it should be in the compartment on the right.

You can cut up to [[MaxSawCutDepthMillimeters::80]] mm thick workpieces on this saw.

=== Maintenance ===
The blade should be sharpened or replaced when it becomes dull, otherwise using it is very dangerous! Tell a [[manager]] or [[tutor]] if you are noticing any problems, e.g. increased force required to push your workpieces or poor quality cuts.

Decreased cutting ability can also result from dirt buildup - here are some [[Circular Saw Blades#Cleaning|cleaning tips]].

''Additional maintenance routines are found on page 16 of the [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46190/Elektra-Beckum-Topline-Pk-255.html manual]. For an exploded view and spare parts, see [https://www.wmv-dresden.de/documents/Metabo/PK_255_2_50_WN_PRAEZISIONSKREISSAEGE_124985_METABO__ELEKTRA_BECKUM.pdf wmv-dresden.de]''

=== Accuracy ===
CAUTION: Something in the height adjustment is not spring-balanced - the blade exhibits slightly different inclinations when being brought up than when being brought down. Make sure you [[Inclinometer|measure this angle]] in the same situation every time!

=== Fences & Jigs ===
* parallel fence
* simple miter fence
** for very precise angles, we could build [https://www.instagram.com/p/B4icOVZneAP a jig that holds the miter fence upright] for setting its inclination with an [[inclinometer]]!
* sliding table
** currently disassembled and stored in the [[office]] - please let us know if you miss it!
** for angled crosscuts: used together with the miter fence and/or [[Lever Clamps|lever clamps]]
* [[Talble saw multi jig|multi jig]]
** for mortise and tenon or angle cuts

Additional accessories may be self-made or found on eBay or similar - the exact model is not made anymore.

''Also see [[Table Saw Jigs|"table saw jigs"]]''

==== Crosscut Sled ====
When making repeated or small 90° crosscuts, it is highly recommended to use a [[Table Saw Sled|table saw sled]] instead of the small miter fence.
With this self-made accessory, the table saw can replace the [[Chop Saw|chop saw]] in many cases.

ZJ5116 TB 16

2026-04-22T23:05:44Z

Lukas: /* ZJ5116 TB 16 */ fixed with a limitation

== ZJ5116 TB 16 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=ZJ5116 TB 16
|image=Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16.JPG
|type=Drill Press
|german=Säulenbohrmaschine
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|manual=
|assetid=83}}
'''Caution: after the rack ''(Zahnstange)'' was broken multiple times, we had to [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/424 weld it in place]. DO NOT attempt to rotate the table sideways and always check the disengage the height locking clamp before moving the table up or down!'''

* Drill bit sizes: 1-16mm (neues Futter)
* Transmission: 16 gear (170-3080rpm)
[[File:Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16 Speeds.jpg|left|thumb|Transmission Speeds (green are the correct ones for 50Hz)]]
 
According to the sign on the machine and [http://www.yzyouyi.com/upLoad/youyitools_powertools_catalogue_2014.pdf this document], the machine has the following (relevant) specs:
{| class="wikitable"
!Specification
!Value
|-
|Motor Power
|550 W
|-
|Spindle Travel
|85 mm
|-
|U/min
|170-3080
|-
|Spindle Taper
|MT2
|-
|Table size
|290 mm{{X}}290 mm
|}

=== Speed Chart ===
This chart was specifically created for the speeds that the machine can provide. You can find it taped to the right side of the machine. Not all speeds are used for this chart if you want/ need very precise control you should look up a more detailed table.
[[File:ZJ5116 Chart.jpg|left|600x600px]]

Project:3D Printed Injection Molds

2026-04-21T14:38:09Z

Lukas: /* Mold Material */

Project:3D Printed Injection Molds

2026-04-21T14:37:45Z

Lukas: /* Mold Design */ linked Fusion & OnShape

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=3D Printed Plastic Injection Molds
|image=
|status=first steps
|date=spring 2026
|initiator=[[Lukas]]
|team=
|materials=[[PHA]], [[PP]], [[PE]]
|tools=FDM [[3D Printers|3D printers]], "HoliPress" manual injection press
|software=[[OnShape]], [[Tinkercad]]
|cost=
}}
I am experimenting with FDM 3D printed injection molds for [[PP]], [[PE]] and perhaps other plastics and will try to keep track of the progress on this page. Yes, seriously: molds made from thermoplastics to be filled with (other) hot thermoplastics without melting! Although [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:796654 hot glue molds] can be a fun way of teaching the principle as well, this opens up new DIY recycling opportunities.

Please reach out if you have any questions that are not (yet) covered below or would like to try it yourself.

== Mold Material ==
When I first got into the topic I thought I would finally have to go through the trouble and learn SLA printing with some nasty high-performance resins that cost as much as an entry level printer these days, but luckily I found the recently launched [https://www.youtube.com/@futurethingsau "future things" YouTube channel] where FDM printed molds were demonstrated. As a massive bonus, the material used is actually compostable!

The magic ingredient turned out to be [[PHA]] (polyhydroxyalkanoate) which is only sold for 3D printing by a handful of filament suppliers. Hopefully this niche market will expand as more people get to know the stuff!

After battling its notoriously weird warping behavior, the material can be printed on any FDM printer and appears to hold what was promised: due to its relatively high heat deflection temperature, it looks just as on the first day after a couple of injections with molten [[PP]] (150 °C).

''also see [[Material:PHA]]''

== Mold Design ==
''Work in progress''

The first test mold was purchased from [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/printable-moulds Sustainable Design Studio] as a ready-to-print STL so I could quickly get a proof of principle. But of course, that can only be where the journey begins and custom designs are in order!

'''Design aids:'''
* [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/moulds-design3d Sustainable Design Studio: How to Design 3D Printed Molds]
** tutorial for creating a mold in [[Autodesk Fusion]] (largely the same for [[OnShape]])
** covers basic design strategies for FDM and SLA printing
* [https://mold.actionbox.ca/ ActionBox Mold Maker]
** automatic mold generator for models that fit into the fixed 69{{x}}88{{x}}48 mm template
** decent for first feasability tests of other sizes as well (scale down & generate dummy to analyze demoldability etc)
** seems to have problems with highly asymmetric parts/split lines
** exporting costs $$
* [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581 Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD] on Thingiverse
** looks promising, but not maintained for several years
** does NOT work in the Thingiverse customizer, but has to be run in a local OpenSCAD instance to load STL input from your PC
** place the desired STL in the same folder as the SCAD script and change "model filename" to your STL's name without any path (e.g. <code>sample-input.stl</code>)

'''not suitable:'''
* [https://moldmakerai.com/ Mold Maker AI]
** beta version as of 2026-3 - see if you can spot it... [[File:crappy AI injection mold.png|thumb|left|100 px|not every AI deserves the "I"]] 
* [https://moldmaker.vercel.app/ 3D Mold Maker]
** generates mold shells that may be suitable for some casting techniques, but not injection molding

== Results ==
First results were promising, but certainly also left room for improvements.

=== Beginner Mistakes ===
* '''residual heat:''' a mold that is still warm from the previous injection may fail! More top layers should help with this, but make sure you allow for some cooldown time
* '''air release:''' you may only get partial injections due to air pressure building up inside the mold - air gaps need to be surprisingly large, I had success with nearly 2 mm² cross-sections
* '''uneven clamping:''' the injected plastic will try to "open" the mold. Clamping it only in one place, even if it is the center, may not be sufficient (metal "cage" reinforments are planned)

=== Success ===
* no mold release spray was necessary so far
* molds close nicely (sometimes even too tight, see [[#Beginner Mistakes]])

''to be continued (hopefully)''

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Design]]
[[Category:Precious Plastic]]
[[Category:Recycling]]

Project:3D Printed Injection Molds

2026-04-21T14:36:18Z

Lukas: /* Results */

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=3D Printed Plastic Injection Molds
|image=
|status=first steps
|date=spring 2026
|initiator=[[Lukas]]
|team=
|materials=[[PHA]], [[PP]], [[PE]]
|tools=FDM [[3D Printers|3D printers]], "HoliPress" manual injection press
|software=[[OnShape]], [[Tinkercad]]
|cost=
}}
I am experimenting with FDM 3D printed injection molds for [[PP]], [[PE]] and perhaps other plastics and will try to keep track of the progress on this page. Yes, seriously: molds made from thermoplastics to be filled with (other) hot thermoplastics without melting! Although [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:796654 hot glue molds] can be a fun way of teaching the principle as well, this opens up new DIY recycling opportunities.

Please reach out if you have any questions that are not (yet) covered below or would like to try it yourself.

== Mold Material ==
When I first got into the topic I thought I would finally have to go through the trouble and learn SLA printing with some nasty high-performance resins that cost as much as an entry level printer these days, but luckily I found the recently launched [https://www.youtube.com/@futurethingsau "future things" YouTube channel] where FDM printed molds were demonstrated. As a massive bonus, the material used is actually compostable!

The magic ingredient turned out to be [[PHA]] (polyhydroxyalkanoate) which is only sold for 3D printing by a handful of filament suppliers. Hopefully this niche market will expand as more people get to know the stuff!

After battling its notoriously weird warping behavior, the material can be printed on any FDM printer and appears to hold what was promised: due to its relatively high heat deflection temperature, it looks just as on the first day after a couple of injections with molten [[PP]] (150 °C).

''also see [[Material:PHA]]''

== Mold Design ==
''Work in progress''

The first test mold was purchased from [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/printable-moulds Sustainable Design Studio] as a ready-to-print STL so I could quickly get a proof of principle. But of course, that can only be where the journey begins and custom designs are in order!

'''Design aids:'''
* [https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/moulds-design3d Sustainable Design Studio: How to Design 3D Printed Molds]
** tutorial for creating a mold in Autodesk Fusion
** covers basic design strategies FDM and SLA printing
* [https://mold.actionbox.ca/ ActionBox Mold Maker]
** automatic mold generator for models that fit into the fixed 69{{x}}88{{x}}48 mm template
** decent for first feasability tests of other sizes as well (scale down & generate dummy to analyze demoldability etc)
** seems to have problems with highly asymmetric parts/split lines
** exporting costs $$
* [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581 Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD] on Thingiverse
** looks promising, but not maintained for several years
** does NOT work in the Thingiverse customizer, but has to be run in a local OpenSCAD instance to load STL input from your PC
** place the desired STL in the same folder as the SCAD script and change "model filename" to your STL's name without any path (e.g. <code>sample-input.stl</code>)

'''not suitable:'''
* [https://moldmakerai.com/ Mold Maker AI]
** beta version as of 2026-3 - see if you can spot it... [[File:crappy AI injection mold.png|thumb|left|100 px|not every AI deserves the "I"]] 
* [https://moldmaker.vercel.app/ 3D Mold Maker]
** generates mold shells that may be suitable for some casting techniques, but not injection molding

== Results ==
First results were promising, but certainly also left room for improvements.

=== Beginner Mistakes ===
* '''residual heat:''' a mold that is still warm from the previous injection may fail! More top layers should help with this, but make sure you allow for some cooldown time
* '''air release:''' you may only get partial injections due to air pressure building up inside the mold - air gaps need to be surprisingly large, I had success with nearly 2 mm² cross-sections
* '''uneven clamping:''' the injected plastic will try to "open" the mold. Clamping it only in one place, even if it is the center, may not be sufficient (metal "cage" reinforments are planned)

=== Success ===
* no mold release spray was necessary so far
* molds close nicely (sometimes even too tight, see [[#Beginner Mistakes]])

''to be continued (hopefully)''

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Design]]
[[Category:Precious Plastic]]
[[Category:Recycling]]

Sanding Discs

2026-04-16T22:25:21Z

Lukas:

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Sanding Discs
|german=Schleifscheiben
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Schleifscheiben, Schleifblätter, Schleifgitter
|type=power [[sanding]] medium
|access=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=[[wood]], [[metal]]
|used with=[[Eccentric Sanders|eccentric sanders]], [[Disc Sander|disc sander]], [[Belt and Disc Sander|belt and disc sander]]
|similar=[[Sanding Belts|sanding belts]], [[sandpaper]]
}}
Typical sanding disc sizes are 120 or 150 mm. We are not currently keeping them in stock so you should '''be prepared to bring your own.'''

If you plan to remove paint, make sure to use special discs that don't clog as easily (usually with a white coating)! A [[spatula]] or a [[plane]] is usually more appropriate for this kind of work, though.

== Dust Extraction Holes ==
Make sure the disc matches the machine not only in diameter, but also hole placement!

Multi-hole discs like [https://www.bauhaus.info/schleifteller/bosch-expert-schleifpapier-set-c470/p/28672863 "Bosch Expert Schleifpapier"] which is usually available at Bauhaus fit most machines.

Mesh discs can be used on any machine hole pattern! Please share your experience if you have tested a brand or two.

[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Sanding]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Sanding Discs

2026-04-16T22:24:27Z

Lukas: Synonyms

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Sanding Discs
|german=Schleifscheiben, Schleifblätter, Schleifgitter
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Schleifscheiben
|type=power [[sanding]] medium
|access=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=[[wood]], [[metal]]
|used with=[[Eccentric Sanders|eccentric sanders]], [[Disc Sander|disc sander]], [[Belt and Disc Sander|belt and disc sander]]
|similar=[[Sanding Belts|sanding belts]], [[sandpaper]]
}}
Typical sanding disc sizes are 120 or 150 mm. We are not currently keeping them in stock so you should '''be prepared to bring your own.'''

If you plan to remove paint, make sure to use special discs that don't clog as easily (usually with a white coating)! A [[spatula]] or a [[plane]] is usually more appropriate for this kind of work, though.

== Dust Extraction Holes ==
Make sure the disc matches the machine not only in diameter, but also hole placement!

Multi-hole discs like [https://www.bauhaus.info/schleifteller/bosch-expert-schleifpapier-set-c470/p/28672863 "Bosch Expert Schleifpapier"] which is usually available at Bauhaus fit most machines.

Mesh discs can be used on any machine hole pattern! Please share your experience if you have tested a brand or two.

[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Sanding]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Sanding Discs

2026-04-16T22:22:17Z

Lukas: /* Dust Extraction Holes */

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Sanding Discs
|german=Schleifscheiben
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Schleifscheiben
|type=power [[sanding]] medium
|access=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=[[wood]], [[metal]]
|used with=[[Eccentric Sanders|eccentric sanders]], [[Disc Sander|disc sander]], [[Belt and Disc Sander|belt and disc sander]]
|similar=[[Sanding Belts|sanding belts]], [[sandpaper]]
}}
Typical sanding disc sizes are 120 or 150 mm. We are not currently keeping them in stock so you should '''be prepared to bring your own.'''

If you plan to remove paint, make sure to use special discs that don't clog as easily (usually with a white coating)! A [[spatula]] or a [[plane]] is usually more appropriate for this kind of work, though.

== Dust Extraction Holes ==
Make sure the disc matches the machine not only in diameter, but also hole placement!

Multi-hole discs like [https://www.bauhaus.info/schleifteller/bosch-expert-schleifpapier-set-c470/p/28672863 "Bosch Expert Schleifpapier"] which is usually available at Bauhaus fit most machines.

Mesh discs can be used on any machine hole pattern! Please share your experience if you have tested a brand or two.

[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Sanding]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

WilTec 65415

2026-04-16T06:56:28Z

Lukas: /* WilTec 65415 */ missing link

==WilTec 65415==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=WilTec 65415
|german=Spindel- und Bandschleifer
|image=Spindle Sander.jpg
|assetid=213
|synonyms=
|manual=[https://service.wiltec.de/manuals/65/65415/EN/65415-doc-en.pdf wiltec.de]
|material=[[Material:Wood|Wood]]
|used with=610{{x}}98 mm [[Sanding Belts|sanding belts]],
115{{x}}51/38/26/19/13 mm [[Sanding Sleeves|sanding sleeves]]
|similar=[[Belt and Disc Sander]]
}}
[[File:Spindle Sander Manual.png|thumb|part numbers from the manual]]
This oscillating spindle and belt sander offers highly versatile sanding options in one compact sanding machine. The 16 mm oscillation height reduces friction and extends the lifespan of sanding sleeves, which makes it suitable for challenging woodworking tasks. Combining an oscillating spindle and a belt sander, this sanding machine allows you to easily sand edges, curves and surfaces. The combination of rotation and vertical oscillation ensures an even finish with minimal effort.

The sanding table tilts up to 45°, which allows you to easily sand beveled edges. The originally included sanding media's grit ''(Körnung)'' is 80.

This machine needs to stay screwed or clamped to a table for safe use!

=== Specs ===
* motor: 500 W, 2000 rpm
* compatible sanding sleeves: height 115 mm
** ⌀ 51 mm (2″)
** ⌀ 38 mm (1.5″)
** ⌀ 26 mm (1″)
** ⌀ 19 mm (0.75″)
** ⌀ 13 mm (0.5″) - without rubber roller

== Spindle Sander Mode ===
Place the fan wheel '''(26)''' with the flat side down on the spindle '''(11).''' Note! Ensure it is firmly in place. You may need to manually rotate the fan wheel '''(26)''' slightly to seat it correctly. Place the desired sanding roller '''(21)''' on the spindle '''(11).''' Attach one of the matching washers '''(24/25/27)''' to the spindle '''(11).''' Hand-tighten the nut '''(23)''' onto the spindle '''(11)''' using the open-end spanner '''(18)''' and firmly holding the sanding roller in place. It is tight enough when you can no longer easily lift the sandpaper sleeve off the roller.

Insert the large bench insert '''(10)''' into the workbench '''(4).''' Insert the appropriate round bench insert '''(22)''' for the sanding roller '''(21)''' into the recess of the large bench insert '''(10).''' The size specifications of the bench insert and the sanding roller MUST match. The sizes of the bench inserts and sanding rollers are indicated under the corresponding storage '''(6)''' on the device.
[[File:Spindle Sander Side1.jpg|thumb|proper assembly for spindle sanding]]

=== Belt Sander Mode ===
The belt run can be corrected using the adjusting screw '''(1)''' or the sanding belt lever '''(2).''' Note! The sanding belt must not be allowed to sand on the workbench '''(4)''' or the bench insert '''(10)''' when the machine is running, otherwise the sanding belt will be damaged.

If the sanding belt moves, it must be minimally adjusted via the adjusting screw '''(1).''' To push the sanding belt upwards, turn the adjusting screw '''(1)''' clockwise. To move it down, turn the adjusting screw '''(1)''' counterclockwise.

If the sanding belt shifts significantly, the position of the sanding belt must be corrected by temporarily loosening the sanding belt lever '''(2)''' and then finely adjusted using the adjusting screw '''(1).'''
[[File:Spindle Sander.jpg|thumb|belt sander mode]]

=== Spare Parts ===
In case we lose any of the bench inserts, [[Finno]] designed 3D printable replacements already: [https://github.com/comakingspace/Parts/tree/main/WilTec%2065415 github.com/comakingspace/Parts]

The spindle washers (parts 27/24/25) are M8 with 17, 22 and 46 mm in outer diameter.