CoMakingSpace Wiki - User Contributions [en]

Oscilloscope

2026-03-09T10:41:04Z

Leo: Updated the General Notes on Operation section

Oscilloscopes display voltage signals as they vary over time. It is possible to determine the wave-form, frequency, amplitude and noise level of the input signals. Multiple inputs allow for measuring phase differences between signals. Thus, oscilloscopes are very useful to debug electronic circuits.

== General Notes on Operation ==
This section is for notes on general operation, as well as tips and tricks for new and intermediate users.

=== X1/X10 attenuation ===
For new and intermediate users, all measurements should be taken in the '''X10''' attenuation mode of your Probes and Oscilloscope. This protects the oscilloscope from accidental damage.

If you are getting implausible readings, check that '''probe and oscilloscope are set to X10''' - for '''all connected channels'''.

=== Display ===
The oscilloscope screen consists of a grid of divisions and displays the measured electrical signals as an X-Y plot. The horizontal X-Axis represents the time and the vertical Y-Axis represents the voltage.
[[File:Osci_display.png|none|thumb|442x442px]]

=== Common Mode Noise ===
A problem when measuring mains-powered devices is ''common mode noise'' (also called ''common mode interference'', ''Gleichtaktstörung''). German-speaking readers should watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROM7s Die größte Seuche der Elektrotechnik], providing an explanation of the phenomenon for beginners.

Common Mode Noise is mostly found in switching power supplies. Most modern AC-DC adapters such as laptop/phone chargers, 12V wall warts and more are so-called "switching" power supplies. Common mode noise emerges because it's impossible to ''perfectly'' seperate the primary (input) and secondary (output) sides of a switching power supply, allowing a small current to leak across it - and this leakage current can interfere with measurements or even destroy sensitive devices.

You can measure this - Take a multimeter in AC Voltage mode, a cheap switching power supply, and measure the voltage from the positive output terminal to something grounded, such as your body. For most switching power supplies, the multimeter will display between 20 and 200 Volts. This is common mode noise. Its current capacity is very low, less than 0.5 mA in most cases, so is only dangerous for sensitive electronics and measurement results, not humans.

It can help to connect the probe ground clip to a GND close to where you are measuring, or just to try a different GND connection around your board.

You can also try procuring a power supply that doesn't output any common mode noise.

'''Only take the following steps if your measurements are bogus, and you have confirmed your power supply is causing common mode noise. If you do the following steps and the oscilloscopes' ground clips touch a power rail, you will create a short circuit with destructive implications, a unnessecary risk for most common measurements.'''

To more radically dissipate common mode noise, you need to '''ground the''' '''output''' of your switching power supply - e.g. connect the output GND to the power plug PE.

For most measurements it is enough to do this locally, as the oscilloscope probe ground clips are on ground potential, but sometimes it might be nessecary to add a extra cable to connect the secondary (output) GND of your power supply to the grounding points around the E-Bench. '''This is more risky and should only be done if you are encountering high voltage interference on your measurements'''.

<br clear="all" />

{{#ask:
[[MachineType::{{PAGENAME}}]]
|order=ascending
|format=embedded
|embedonly=yes
}}

[[Category:Electronics]]

Oscilloscope Introduction

2026-03-09T10:40:07Z

Leo: Added/fixed links and moved general operation tutorial to the main page

{{incomplete}}

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Oscilloscope]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: '''(TUTORS TO BE ADDED)'''

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the [[Oscilloscope#Siglent SDS814X HD|machine's wiki page]] and manual.

== ⚠️ Safety ==
As with any electric device, avoid moisture or exposure to liquids, don't operate with opened/damaged housing.

[[PPE|Personal protection]]: No specific personal protection equipment needed

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| Electric Shock ||
* Be '''extremely''' careful with exposed mains voltage. A shock from 230V mains can cause '''severe injury or death'''.
* Make sure to '''warn all other people around you''' if there is any possibility of touching voltages above '''25V AC''' or '''50V DC'''.
* Do not touch exposed circuits when measuring signals on an open device or PCB.
* Only use insulated probes and handles.
* Do not float the oscilloscope or attempt differential measurements with standard probes at hazardous voltages; use appropriate high‑voltage differential probes
|-
| High Voltages ||
* Never apply signals higher that the oscilloscope's and probe's ratings.
|}

== Suggested Reading ==
"How to not blow up your Oscilloscope": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaELqAo4kkQ

"How to use an Oscilloscope" by Sparkfun: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-an-oscilloscope/all

"Oscilloscope Fundamentals Primer" by Rohde & Schwarz:https://ethz.ch/content/dam/ethz/special-interest/chab/chab-dept/research/documents/LPC/oscilloscopefundamentals.pdf#page=1&zoom=50,-6,807

(German) "Die größte Seuche der Elektrotechnik" [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROM7s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROge.M7s] A video that explains common mode interference (''Gleichtaktstörungen'') and gives insight into why and how they are avoided.

Artikelserie "Moderne Oszilloskop-Meßtechnik" des ELV Journals (Teil 10 fehlt): <br>
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_04_14_messtechnik.pdf Teil 1],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_05_18_messtechnik.pdf Teil 2],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_06_10_messtechnik.pdf Teil 3],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_01_17_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 4],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_02_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 5],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_03_14_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 6],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_04_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 7],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_05_22_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 8],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_06_09_oszillo.pdf Teil 9],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_02_08_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 11],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_03_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 12],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_04_15_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 13],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_05_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 14],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_06_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 15]

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:

=== Preparation and power‑up ===
# '''Ground yourself and the instrument.''' Plug the oscilloscope into a grounded outlet and wear an ESD strap. Ensure the instrument shares ground with the device under test - that usually means connecting GND of all connected devices to PE (Protective Earth)
# '''Power on.''' Use the front‑panel power switch to turn on the oscilloscope. Allow the device to boot and complete its self‑test.
# '''Reset to default setup.''' Press the DEFAULT button to restore the oscilloscope to a known configuration. This ensures standard settings for controls and avoids unexpected behaviour.

=== Connecting and compensating probes ===
# '''Select the channel and vertical scale.''' Press the CH 1 button to enable channel 1. Set the volts/div knob and the vertical position to mid‑range
# '''Attach the probe.''' Connect the passive probe’s BNC connector to the channel input. Attach the ground lead clip to a known ground on the oscilloscope or reference terminal
# '''Compensate the probe.''' Connect the probe tip to the scope’s built‑in square‑wave reference output. Adjust the probe’s compensation capacitor until the displayed square wave has flat tops and bottoms
# '''Repeat this for each channel.'''

=== Basic measurements ===

# '''Time base and triggering:''' Adjust the horizontal time/div knob to set the time scale; adjust the trigger level and trigger mode (Auto, Normal, Single) as needed. For repetitive signals, AUTOSET can help to automatically adjust time base, vertical scale and trigger.
# '''Voltage measurements:''' Use the cursors or built‑in measurement functions to display peak‑to‑peak voltage, RMS voltage, frequency and other parameters.
# '''Multiple channels:''' Enable additional channels (CH 2–CH 4) to compare signals and measure phase differences or timing relationships. Use the Math menu to subtract signals or calculate FFTs.
# '''Digital channels and serial decoding (optional):''' Use the digital inputs to capture up to 16 logic channels and decode I²C, SPI, UART, CAN or LIN protocols. The Serial menu allows you to assign channels and view decoded data.

=== Saving and exporting data ===

* Insert a USB flash drive into one of the front USB ports. Use the Save/Recall menu to save waveform snapshots, setups or CSV data for further analysis.
* For remote operation, connect an Ethernet cable to the RJ45 port. Open a web browser and enter the oscilloscope’s IP address to access the built‑in web server, which allows live control, screen capture and file transfers.

[[Category:Introductions]]

Oscilloscope Introduction

2026-03-08T20:30:46Z

Leo: Fixed some minor oversights like formatting errors or typos

{{incomplete}}

This is the content required for an introduction to our <nowiki>[[Introduction for::Oscilloscope]]</nowiki> - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors:

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's wiki page and manual.

== ⚠️ Safety ==
As with any electric device, avoid moisture or exposure to liquids, don't operate with opened/damaged housing.

[[PPE|Personal protection]]: No specific personal protection equipment needed

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| Electric Shock ||
* Be '''extremely''' careful with exposed mains voltage. A shock from 230V mains can cause '''severe injury or death'''.
* Make sure to '''warn all other people around you''' if there is any possibility of touching voltages above '''25V AC''' or '''50V DC'''.
* Do not touch exposed circuits when measuring signals on an open device or PCB.
* Only use insulated probes and handles.
* Do not float the oscilloscope or attempt differential measurements with standard probes at hazardous voltages; use appropriate high‑voltage differential probes
|-
| High Voltages ||
* Never apply signals higher that the oscilloscope's and probe's ratings
|}

== Display ==

The oscilloscope screen consists of a grid of divisions and displays the measured electrical signals as an X-Y plot. The horizontal X-Axis represents the time and the vertical Y-Axis represents the voltage.
[[File:Osci display.png|none|thumb|442x442px]]

== General Notes on Operation ==
This section is for general tips and tricks for new and intermediate users.

=== X1/X10 attenuation ===
For new and intermediate users, all measurements should be taken in the '''X10''' attenuation mode of your Probes and Oscilloscope. This protects the oscilloscope from accidental damage.

If you are getting implausible readings, check that '''probe and oscilloscope are set to X10''' - for '''all connected channels'''.

=== Common Mode Noise ===
A problem when measuring mains-powered devices is ''common mode noise'' (also called ''common mode interference'', ''Gleichtaktstörung''). German-speaking readers should watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROM7s Die größte Seuche der Elektrotechnik], a great explanation of the phenomenon for beginners.

Common Mode Noise is mostly found in switching power supplies. Most modern AC-DC adapters such as laptop/phone chargers, 12V wall warts and more are so-called "switching" power supplies. Common mode noise emerges because it's impossible to ''perfectly'' seperate the primary (input) and secondary (output) sides of a switching power supply, allowing a small current to leak across it - and this leakage current can interfere with measurements or even destroy sensitive devices.

You can measure this - Take a multimeter in AC Voltage mode, a cheap switching power supply, and measure the voltage from the positive output terminal to something grounded, such as your body. For most switching power supplies, the multimeter will display between 20 and 200 Volts. This is common mode noise. Its current capacity is very low, less than 0.5 mA in most cases, so is only dangerous for sensitive electronics and measurement results, not humans.

It can help to connect the probe ground clip to a GND close to where you are measuring, or just to try a different GND connection around your board.

You can also try procuring a power supply that doesn't output any common mode noise.

'''Only take the following steps if your measurements are bogus, and you have confirmed your power supply is causing common mode noise. If you do the following steps and the oscilloscopes' ground clips touch a power rail, you will create a short circuit with destructive implications, a unnessecary risk for most common measurements.'''

To more radically dissipate common mode noise, you need to '''ground the''' '''output''' of your switching power supply - e.g. connect the output GND to the power plug PE.

For most measurements it is enough to do this locally, as the oscilloscope probe ground clips are on ground potential, but sometimes it might be nessecary to add a extra cable to connect the secondary (output) GND of your power supply to the grounding points around the E-Bench. '''This is more risky and should only be done if you are encountering high voltage interference on your measurements'''.

== Suggested Reading ==
"How to not blow up your Oscilloscope": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaELqAo4kkQ

"How to use an Oscilloscope" by Sparkfun: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-an-oscilloscope/all

"Oscilloscope Fundamentals Primer" by Rohde & Schwarz:https://ethz.ch/content/dam/ethz/special-interest/chab/chab-dept/research/documents/LPC/oscilloscopefundamentals.pdf#page=1&zoom=50,-6,807

(German) "Die größte Seuche der Elektrotechnik" [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROM7s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROge.M7s] A video that explains common mode interference (''Gleichtaktstörungen'') and gives insight into why and how they are avoided.

Artikelserie "Moderne Oszilloskop-Meßtechnik" des ELV Journals (Teil 10 fehlt): <br>
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_04_14_messtechnik.pdf Teil 1],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_05_18_messtechnik.pdf Teil 2],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_06_10_messtechnik.pdf Teil 3],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_01_17_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 4],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_02_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 5],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_03_14_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 6],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_04_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 7],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_05_22_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 8],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_06_09_oszillo.pdf Teil 9],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_02_08_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 11],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_03_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 12],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_04_15_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 13],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_05_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 14],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_06_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 15]

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:

=== Preparation and power‑up ===
# '''Ground yourself and the instrument.''' Plug the oscilloscope into a grounded outlet and wear an ESD strap. Ensure the instrument shares ground with the device under test - that usually means connecting GND of all connected devices to PE (Protective Earth)
# '''Power on.''' Use the front‑panel power switch to turn on the oscilloscope. Allow the device to boot and complete its self‑test.
# '''Reset to default setup.''' Press the DEFAULT button to restore the oscilloscope to a known configuration. This ensures standard settings for controls and avoids unexpected behaviour.

=== Connecting and compensating probes ===
# '''Select the channel and vertical scale.''' Press the CH 1 button to enable channel 1. Set the volts/div knob and the vertical position to mid‑range
# '''Attach the probe.''' Connect the passive probe’s BNC connector to the channel input. Attach the ground lead clip to a known ground on the oscilloscope or reference terminal
# '''Compensate the probe.''' Connect the probe tip to the scope’s built‑in square‑wave reference output. Adjust the probe’s compensation capacitor until the displayed square wave has flat tops and bottoms
# '''Repeat this for each channel.'''

=== Basic measurements ===

# '''Time base and triggering:''' Adjust the horizontal time/div knob to set the time scale; adjust the trigger level and trigger mode (Auto, Normal, Single) as needed. For repetitive signals, AUTOSET can help to automatically adjust time base, vertical scale and trigger.
# '''Voltage measurements:''' Use the cursors or built‑in measurement functions to display peak‑to‑peak voltage, RMS voltage, frequency and other parameters.
# '''Multiple channels:''' Enable additional channels (CH 2–CH 4) to compare signals and measure phase differences or timing relationships. Use the Math menu to subtract signals or calculate FFTs.
# '''Digital channels and serial decoding (optional):''' Use the digital inputs to capture up to 16 logic channels and decode I²C, SPI, UART, CAN or LIN protocols. The Serial menu allows you to assign channels and view decoded data.

=== Saving and exporting data ===

* Insert a USB flash drive into one of the front USB ports. Use the Save/Recall menu to save waveform snapshots, setups or CSV data for further analysis.
* For remote operation, connect an Ethernet cable to the RJ45 port. Open a web browser and enter the oscilloscope’s IP address to access the built‑in web server, which allows live control, screen capture and file transfers.

[[Category:Introductions]]

Oscilloscope Introduction

2026-03-08T20:26:14Z

Leo: Added notes on x1/x10 attenuation and common mode interference

{{incomplete}}

This is the content required for an introduction to our <nowiki>[[Introduction for::Oscilloscope]]</nowiki> - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors:

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's wiki page and manual.

== ⚠️ Safety ==
As with any electric device, avoid moisture or exposure to liquids, don't operate with opened/damaged housing.

[[PPE|Personal protection]]: No specific personal protection equipment needed

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| Electric Shock ||
* Be '''extremely''' careful with exposed mains voltage. A shock from 230V mains can cause '''severe injury or death'''.
* Make sure to '''warn all other people around you''' if there is any possibility of touching voltages above '''25V AC''' or '''50V DC'''.
* Do not touch exposed circuits when measuring signals on an open device or PCB.
* Only use insulated probes and handles.
* Do not float the oscilloscope or attempt differential measurements with standard probes at hazardous voltages; use appropriate high‑voltage differential probes
|-
| High Voltages ||
* Never apply signals higher that the oscilloscope's and probe's ratings
|}

== Display ==

The oscilloscope screen consists of a grid of divisions and displays the measured electrical signals as an X-Y plot. The horizontal X-Axis represents the time and the vertical Y-Axis represents the voltage.
[[File:Osci display.png|none|thumb|442x442px]]

== General Notes on Operation ==
This section is for general tips and tricks for new and intermediate users.

=== X1/X10 attenuation ===
For new and intermediate users, all measurements should be taken in the '''X10''' attenuation mode of your Probes and Oscilloscope. This protects the oscilloscope from accidental damage.

If you are getting implausible readings, check that '''probe and oscilloscope are set to X10''' - for '''all connected channels'''.

=== Common Mode Noise ===
A problem when measuring mains-powered devices is ''common mode noise'' (also called ''common mode interference'', ''Gleichtaktstörung''). German-speaking readers should watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROM7s Die größte Seuche der Elektrotechnik], a great explanation of the phenomenon for beginners.

Common Mode Noise is mostly found in switching power supplies. Most modern AC-DC adapters such as laptop/phone chargers, 12V wall warts and more are so-called "switching" power supplies. Common mode noise emerges because it's impossible to ''perfectly'' seperate the primary (input) and secondary (output) sides of a switching power supply, allowing a small current to leak across it - and this leakage current can interfere with measurements or even destroy sensitive devices.

You can measure this - Take a multimeter in AC Voltage mode, a cheap switching power supply, and measure the voltage from the positive output terminal to something grounded, such as your body. For most switching power supplies, the multimeter will display between 20 and 200 Volts. This is common mode noise. Its current capacity is very low, less than 0.5 mA in most cases, so is only dangerous for sensitive electronics and measurement results, not humans.

It can help to connect the probe ground clip to a GND close to where you are measuring, or just to try a different GND connection around your board.

'''Only take the following steps if your measurements are bogus, and you have confirmed your power supply is causing common mode noise. If you do the following steps and the oscilloscopes' ground clips touch a power rail, you will create a short circuit with destructive implications, a unnessecary risk for most common measurements.'''

To more radically dissipate common mode noise, you need to '''ground the''' '''output''' of your switching power supply - e.g. connect the output GND to the power plug PE.

For most measurements it is enough to do this locally, as the oscilloscope probe ground clips are on ground potential, but sometimes it might be nessecary to add a extra cable to connect the secondary (output) GND of your power supply to the grounding points around the E-Bench. '''This is more risky and should only be done if you are encountering high voltage interference on your measurements'''.

== Suggested Reading ==
"How to not blow up your Oscilloscope": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaELqAo4kkQ

"How to use an Oscilloscope" by Sparkfun: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-an-oscilloscope/all

"Oscilloscope Fundamentals Primer" by Rohde & Schwarz:https://ethz.ch/content/dam/ethz/special-interest/chab/chab-dept/research/documents/LPC/oscilloscopefundamentals.pdf#page=1&zoom=50,-6,807

(German) "Die größte Seuche der Elektrotechnik" [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROM7s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROge.M7s] A video that explains common mode interference (''Gleichtaktstörungen'') and gives insight into why and how they are avoided.

Artikelserie "Moderne Oszilloskop-Meßtechnik" des ELV Journals (Teil 10 fehlt): <br>
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_04_14_messtechnik.pdf Teil 1],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_05_18_messtechnik.pdf Teil 2],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_06_10_messtechnik.pdf Teil 3],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_01_17_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 4],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_02_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 5],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_03_14_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 6],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_04_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 7],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_05_22_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 8],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_06_09_oszillo.pdf Teil 9],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_02_08_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 11],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_03_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 12],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_04_15_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 13],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_05_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 14],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_06_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 15]

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:

=== Preparation and power‑up ===
# '''Ground yourself and the instrument.''' Plug the oscilloscope into a grounded outlet and wear an ESD strap. Ensure the instrument shares ground with the device under test - that usually means connecting GND of all connected devices to PE (Protective Earth)
# '''Power on.''' Use the front‑panel power switch to turn on the oscilloscope. Allow the device to boot and complete its self‑test.
# '''Reset to default setup.''' Press the DEFAULT button to restore the oscilloscope to a known configuration. This ensures standard settings for controls and avoids unexpected behaviour.

=== Connecting and compensating probes ===
# '''Select the channel and vertical scale.''' Press the CH 1 button to enable channel 1. Set the volts/div knob and the vertical position to mid‑range
# '''Attach the probe.''' Connect the passive probe’s BNC connector to the channel input. Attach the ground lead clip to a known ground on the oscilloscope or reference terminal
# '''Compensate the probe.''' Connect the probe tip to the scope’s built‑in square‑wave reference output. Adjust the probe’s compensation capacitor until the displayed square wave has flat tops and bottoms
# '''Repeat this for each channel.'''

=== Basic measurements ===

# '''Time base and triggering:''' Adjust the horizontal time/div knob to set the time scale; adjust the trigger level and trigger mode (Auto, Normal, Single) as needed. For repetitive signals, AUTOSET can help to automatically adjust time base, vertical scale and trigger.
# '''Voltage measurements:''' Use the cursors or built‑in measurement functions to display peak‑to‑peak voltage, RMS voltage, frequency and other parameters.
# '''Multiple channels:''' Enable additional channels (CH 2–CH 4) to compare signals and measure phase differences or timing relationships. Use the Math menu to subtract signals or calculate FFTs.
# '''Digital channels and serial decoding (optional):''' Use the digital inputs to capture up to 16 logic channels and decode I²C, SPI, UART, CAN or LIN protocols. The Serial menu allows you to assign channels and view decoded data.

=== Saving and exporting data ===

* Insert a USB flash drive into one of the front USB ports. Use the Save/Recall menu to save waveform snapshots, setups or CSV data for further analysis.
* For remote operation, connect an Ethernet cable to the RJ45 port. Open a web browser and enter the oscilloscope’s IP address to access the built‑in web server, which allows live control, screen capture and file transfers.

[[Category:Introductions]]

Oscilloscope Introduction

2026-03-07T19:19:59Z

Leo: added notes on dealing with common mode interference

User:Leo

2026-01-29T14:39:21Z

Leo:

{{UserInfoBox
|real_name=Leonard
|image=
|expertise=Linux, IT, Computers, 3D Printing, Lasers, Electronics
|interests=CNC, Metalworking
|projects=Building/modifying 3D Printers, hardware hacking, programming
|email=leo at servopunk dot net
|website=https://servopunk.net/
|twitter=
|github=
|thingiverse=
}}

I am Leonard, area patron of the [[3D Printers]] and [[Electronics Room]].

I know a bit about computers and interfacing with physical hardware. 3D Printers, CNC, Laser machines and more - computer controlled machines.

I also am a intermediate programmer and have some self-taught electronics knowledge.

Should you need to contact me, you can do so via the Telegram group or the E-Mail address provided in the UserInfoBox.

WorkBee

2025-03-17T11:38:57Z

Leo: Added/reworked links

WorkBee Schnittdaten und Fräser

2025-03-17T11:36:13Z

Leo: Formatierung, Links und Details

= Fräserwahl und Schnittdaten für die WorkBee CNC =

Diese Seite beinhaltet Informationen zur Auswahl von Fräsern (''Endmills'') und Schnittparametern für die [[WorkBee CNC|WorkBee]] CNC.

== Generelles und Schwächen der WorkBee CNC ==

'''Hohe Spindeldrehzahlen:'''

Die Spindel der WorkBee arbeitet mit relativ hohen Drehzahlen (16.000 U/min und mehr). Das kann zu Problemen mit Hitzeentwicklung führen, da der Fräser an den bereits bearbeiteten Kanten weiter reibt und so durch Reibungshitze ausglühen kann. Das wird besonders bei Fräsern mit vielen Fluten ein Problem, da mehr Kanten mehr Reibung erzeugen.

Bei größeren '''Fräserdurchmessern''' ist ebenfalls vorsicht zu genießen:

Bei größeren Durchmessern ergibt sich eine höhere Schnittgeschwindigkeit an der Außenkante.
Das erhöht die Reibung zwischen Fräser und Werkstück, wodurch mehr Wärme entsteht.

Die Schnittgeschwindigkeit ist die Geschwindigkeit, mit der die Schniedkante des Fräsers durch das Werkstück gleitet.

'''Geringe Rahmensteifigkeit:'''

Der Rahmen der WorkBee ist im Vergleich zu industriellen CNC-Maschinen weniger steif. Dies bedeutet, dass die Maschine anfälliger für Vibrationen und Durchbiegungen ist, insbesondere bei hohen Schnittkräften. Außerdem sind die Riemen und Motoren nicht für hohe Geschwindigkeiten ausgelegt.

'''Auswirkungen:'''

Die WorkBee neigt dazu, bei zu aggressiven Schnittparametern (hohe Schnitttiefe, hoher Vorschub) zu vibrieren und Schritte zu überspringen (''step loss'').

Dadurch ist man dazu gezwungen, kleinere Schnitte zu machen. Das sorgt aber zu Problemen mit Reibung und Hitzeentwicklung, bis zum ausglühen der Fräser und schmauchspuren am Werkstück.

== Spezifische Beratung für Holz ==

* '''Empfohlene Fräser:'''
** Für die Holzbearbeitung mit der WorkBee haben sich 1/8" (3,175 mm) Fräser mit 2 Schneiden (Fluten) als gute Wahl erwiesen.
** Alternativ können auch 6-mm-Fräser verwendet werden. Diese entwickeln mehr Hitze, brechen aber bei aggressiven Schnitten oder Fehlbenutzung nicht sofort.
** Die günstigste Quelle für Fräser ist [https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-1%252F8%22-2-flute-endmill.html AliExpress], aber die Qualität schwankt hier sehr.
** 6 mm Fräser von hoher Qualität kann man bei [https://www.sorotec.de/shop/Zerspanungswerkzeuge/sorotec-werkzeuge/2-schneider/2-schneider-uni/ Sorotec] beschaffen. 1201UN.0600.XX (ersetze XX durch 12 für bis zu 12mm materialdicke und 22 für bis zu 22)
* '''Schnittparameter:'''
** '''Drehzahl:''' Verwenden Sie die minimale Drehzahl Ihrer Spindel (z. B. 16.000 U/min).
** '''Vorschub (Feedrate):''' Ein Vorschub von 500–1500 mm/min hat sich bewährt.
** '''Helix- und Tauchschnitte:''' Reduzieren Sie bei Problemen den Vorschub bei Helix- und Tauchschnitten auf 50%–100% des normalen Vorschubs.
* '''Zusammenfassung:'''
** Beim Beschaffen gilt: Kleine Fräser mit wenigen Schneiden. 3.175 mm 2-Schneider haben sich bewährt.
** Während dem Fräsen '''darauf achten, dass kein Feinstaub sondern <u>kleine Spähne</u> erzeugt werden'''. Vorschub erhöhen und Spindeldrehzahl verringern um Ausglühen des Fräsers zu verhindern.

WorkBee Schnittdaten und Fräser

2025-03-17T11:30:05Z

Leo: Seite erstellt

= Fräserwahl und Schnittdaten für die WorkBee CNC =

Diese Seite beinhaltet Informationen zur Auswahl von Fräsern (''Endmills'') und Schnittparametern für die WorkBee CNC.

== Generelles und Schwächen der WorkBee CNC ==

'''Hohe Spindeldrehzahlen:'''
Die Spindel der WorkBee arbeitet mit relativ hohen Drehzahlen (16.000 U/min und mehr). Das kann zu Problemen mit Hitzeentwicklung führen, da der Fräser an den bereits bearbeiteten Kanten weiter reibt und so durch Reibungshitze ausglühen kann.
Das wird besonders bei Fräsern mit vielen Fluten ein Problem, da mehr Kanten mehr Reibung erzeugen.
Bei größeren '''Fräserdurchmessern''' ist ebenfalls vorsicht zu genießen: Bei größeren Durchmessern ergibt sich eine höhere Schnittgeschwindigkeit an der Außenkante.
Das erhöht die Reibung zwischen Fräser und Werkstück, wodurch mehr Wärme entsteht.
Die Schnittgeschwindigkeit ist die Geschwindigkeit, mit der die Schniedkante des Fräsers durch das Werkstück gleitet.

'''Geringe Rahmensteifigkeit:'''
Der Rahmen der WorkBee ist im Vergleich zu industriellen CNC-Maschinen weniger steif. Dies bedeutet, dass die Maschine anfälliger für Vibrationen und Durchbiegungen ist, insbesondere bei hohen Schnittkräften. Außerdem sind die Riemen und Motoren nicht für hohe Geschwindigkeiten ausgelegt.

'''Auswirkungen:'''
Die WorkBee neigt dazu, bei zu aggressiven Schnittparametern (hohe Schnitttiefe, hoher Vorschub) zu vibrieren und Schritte zu überspringen (''step loss'').
Dadurch ist man dazu gezwungen, kleinere Schnitte zu machen. Das sorgt aber zu Problemen mit Reibung und Hitzeentwicklung, bis zum ausglühen der Fräser und schmauchspuren am Werkstück.

== Spezifische Beratung für Holz ==

* '''Empfohlene Fräser:'''
** Für die Holzbearbeitung mit der WorkBee haben sich 1/8" (3,175 mm) Fräser mit 2 Schneiden (Fluten) als gute Wahl erwiesen.
** Alternativ können auch 6-mm-Fräser verwendet werden. Diese entwickeln mehr Hitze, brechen aber bei aggressiven Schnitten oder Fehlbenutzung nicht sofort.
** Die günstigste Quelle für Fräser ist AliExpress, aber die Qualität schwankt hier sehr.
** 6 mm Fräser von hoher Qualität kann man bei [https://www.sorotec.de/shop/Zerspanungswerkzeuge/sorotec-werkzeuge/2-schneider/2-schneider-uni/ Sorotec] beschaffen. 1201UN.0600.XX (ersetze XX durch 12 für bis zu 12mm materialdicke und 22 für bis zu 22)
* '''Schnittparameter:'''
** '''Drehzahl:''' Verwenden Sie die minimale Drehzahl Ihrer Spindel (z. B. 16.000 U/min).
** '''Vorschub (Feedrate):''' Ein Vorschub von 500–1500 mm/min hat sich bewährt.
** '''Helix- und Tauchschnitte:''' Reduzieren Sie den Vorschub bei Helix- und Tauchschnitten auf etwa 50–80 % des normalen Vorschubs.
* '''Zusammenfassung:'''
** Beim Beschaffen gilt: Kleine Fräser mit wenigen Schneiden. 3.175 mm 2-Schneider haben sich bewährt.
** Während dem Fräsen darauf achten, dass kein Feinstaub sondern kleine Spähne erzeugt werden. Vorschub erhöhen und Spindeldrehzahl verringern um Ausglühen des Fräsers zu verhindern.

WorkBee organization

2025-03-14T08:38:12Z

Leo: pegboard wall was changed

== Organization around the WorkBee CNC ==

Around the [[Workbee CNC]], there are plenty of ways to keep all tooling organized. Use all of it! The things here (such as endmills) are for public use, so leave your surplus and use what is useful to you!

As with all other tools, please leave the CNC more organized than you found it. For example, the collet wrench should always return to its intended place:

<div class="figure">[[File:Workbee-wrench.png|alt=400|center|412x412px|border]]

</div>
=== Gridfinity ===

In front of the machine, at the table, there are [https://gridfinity.xyz/ Gridfinity] baseplates:

<div class="figure">

[[File:workbee-gridfinity.png|400|423x423px]]

</div>
'''Gridfinity''' is a 3D Printed organization system based on a 42mm grid. The bins in front of the machine are meant to be freely used, labeled and expanded upon. You can find additional bins to 3D Print on sites like [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse], [https://www.printables.com/ Printables] and [https://thangs.com/?sort=trending Thangs]. For example, if we add more collets in the future, re-print the [https://www.printables.com/model/989475-gridfinity-dewalt-collet-holder collet holder].
=== Pegboard ===

On the wall left of the machine, there is a pegboard system for storing the larger items such as dust shoes. It is a '''IKEA SKADIS''', printing hooks and organizational tools is greatly encouraged. There are many 3D models to [https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=tag%3Askadis download] all over the internet.

<br clear=all>

WorkBee

2025-03-14T06:18:01Z

Leo: clarifications around electronics, firmware and issues affecting operation

Laser Cutter Material Settings

2025-02-26T20:53:39Z

Leo: clearer wording

[[File:laser setting tests.jpg|thumb|right|200px|aftermath of a [[plywood]] testing session]]
Unfortunately you can't just calculate the perfect settings based on the '''power''' ("Watts") of a [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] because the actually delivered energy is always based on a combination of power and '''''speed''''', which is different for each brand or model of laser cutter. To make things more complicated, 100 % power in a cutting profile is not the same as 100 % power in an engraving profile... 

As there is always some trial and error involved, please share your experience with the others! You can often use experience from other machines as a ''rough'' starting point.

In general, cutting is usually done at 100 % power and the highest speed that will still result in a reliable cut. If 100 % speed still gets you through (e.g. paper or cardboard), you should reduce the power until you find the sweet spot. Besides the power setting, you can influence the invested energy by altering the pulse '''frequency''' - you may want to go lower on flammable materials like wood, where edges might otherwise become black, and higher on plastics like [[Acrylic Glass|acrylic glass]] where you are aiming for a "flame-polished" edge.<sup> [https://www.epiloglaser.com/assets/downloads/manuals/zing-manual-web.pdf page 46]</sup>

The width of the kerf ''(Schnittfuge)'' also depends on the laser settings and the material you're using and could be important for certain designs. [[User:Sebastian|Sebastian]] recommends to use the "DXF for Laser" [[Fusion 360]] export plugin<sup> [https://apps.autodesk.com/FUSION/en/Detail/Index?id=7634902334100976871]</sup> and testing different settings for each material so you get tight fitting joints.

== Laserscript LS6090 (80 W) ==

Check '''[[Laser_Cutter#Forbidden_Materials|Forbidden]]''' and '''[[Laser_Cutter#Possible_Materials_(Cutting/Engraving)|Possible Materials]]'''.

* Power range: 1-100 %
* Speed range: 200-400 mm/s ''recommended'' for engraving; higher speeds are achievable according to the [https://hpclaser.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LS6090-PRO-Data-Sheet-2019a.pdf data sheet]<sup> [what is the actual limit??]</sup>
* Why look at the '''date'''? CO<sub>2</sub> lasers loose power over time! New tubes installed: 2020-01 / ...

Here's what we've tried so far - please add your own experiences!

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! scope="col"| Material
!Date
(YYYY-MM)
! scope="col"| Thickness
! scope="col"| Operation
! scope="col" | Speed (mm/s)
! scope="col"| Power (%)
!Corner power
! scope="col"| Scan gap ("resolution")
! scope="col"| Focus
! scope="col"| Comments
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|
|2 mm
|cut
|30
|100
|
|
|
|
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2024-10
|irrelevant
|engrave
|500
|100
|
|0.1mm
|
|
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-02
|4 mm
|cut
|16
|100
|
|
|center (-2 mm)
|kerf: approx. 0.15 mm for a bit of wiggle room (for gluing)
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2021-06
|4 mm
|cut
|20
|80
|
|
|center (-2 mm)
|Cut looks good; e.g. "Bastel-Sperrholz Pappel 4mm" from Bauhaus
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-06
|4 mm
|cut
|40
|100
|30
|
|surface
|cut just about goes through - much better edge quality than center focus with s20/p80
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2024-07
|4 mm
|cut
|22
|100
|50
|
|surface
|cut *just* goes through, very nice edges
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-06
|4 mm
|mark (vector engrave, weak cut)
|400
|40
|
|
|surface
|nice fine line; small test shapes don't work well as everything is overriden by "corner power" settings
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-04
|4 mm
|engrave/extrude
|260
|90
|
|0.1mm
|
|Gives you ~2mm extrusion
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-04
|4 mm
|engrave/extrude
|520
|90
|
|0.1mm
|
|Gives you ~1mm extrusion
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-02
|6 mm
|cut
|12
|100
|
|
|center (-3 mm)
|kerf: approx. 0.15 mm for a bit of wiggle room (for gluing)
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2024-07
|6 mm
|cut
|08
|100
|50
|
|sub-center (-1 step)
|cut through easyly, also fine with tape
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-02
|8 mm
|cut
|7
|100
|
|
|center (-4 mm)
|kerf: approx. 0.15 mm for a bit of wiggle room (for gluing)
|-
!Beech Plywood (Buche)
|2024-11
|4 mm
|cut
|12-15
|100
|30
|
|surface
|Kerf: approx 0.1 mm
3 layer of wood, purchased from Hornbach as "Sperrholz Buche"
|-
!Spruce ''(Fichte)''
|2021-12
|4mm
|cut
|10
|100
|
|
|center
|Kleinteile > 3mm
|-
! [https://www.bauhaus.info/schneidebretter-drehteller/schneidebrett/p/26045104 Bamboo cutting board]
|2020-08
|
| engrave
| 200
| 20
|
|
| Surface
| quite good results. Not very deep, but good visibility.
|-
! Black anodized [[aluminium]] (bead blasted surface finish)
|2020-08
|
| engrave
| 200
| 60
|
|
| Surface
| Very clean and bright lines. No change of surface texture to-touch. Increase resolution for finer details.
|-
! [[MDF]]
|2020-08
| 3 mm
| cut
| 19
| 100
|
|
| Center (1.5mm)
| For larger objects, increase the power/decrease speed to adjust for unevenness of the object on the table.
|-
![[Acrylic Glass]] (PMMA)
|
|3mm
|cut
|25
|100
|80
|
|Center (-1.5mm)
|
|-
![[Acrylic Glass]] (PMMA)
|
|3mm
|cut
|20
|100
|80
|
|Top Surface
|
|-
![[Acrylic Glass]] (PMMA)
|2021-10
|10mm
|cut
|3.5
|100
|100
|
|Center
|
|-
!Protective Foil on [[Acrylic Glass]]
|
|0.05mm
|cut
|100
|50
|15
|
|Center (-1.5mm)
|
|-
![[Acrylic Glass]] (PMMA) - GS
|2021-03
|5 mm
|engrave
|400
|50
|
|
|Surface
|Good visibility
|-
![[Acrylic Glass]] (PMMA) - GS
|
|5 mm
|cut
|2
|100
|
|
|Surface
|Cut looks good
|-
![[Glass]]
|2021-04
|
|Engrave
|300
|40
|
|
|Surface
|
|-
!Glass Black Paint
|2021-10
|
|Engrave
|300
|100
|
|
|Surface
|scan gap 0.1, Bi-dir, Blow, Jo
|-
!Glass Black Paint
|2022-10
|
|Engrave
|300
|60
|
|
|Surface
|scan gap 0.05, Bi-dir, 3bar, Jo
|-
!Softshell (100% Polyester)
|2021-04
|
|Engrave
|450
| 15
|
|
|Surface
|Using more power will burn through the material!
|-
!Fleece (fabric)
|2021-04
|
|Engrave
|450
|20
|
|
|Surface
|Engraving results in general are good.
The visibility of the engraving depends heavily on the color of the used fabric.
|-
!Fleece (fabric, Polyester)
|2024-10
|4 mm
|cut
|90
|85
|75
|
|center (-2 mm)
|Cut though, borders melted
|-
![[Birch Plywood]]
|2024-11
|5 mm
|cut
|8
|100
|50
|
|Surface
|kerf ~0.5mm on both sides
Failed on 26.02.2025. Tube degradation or material dependent?
|-
![[Birch Plywood]]
|2021-08
|8mm
|cut
|10
|100
|
|
|Surface
|Cut looks good
|-
![[Birch Plywood]]
|2023-05
|
|engrave
|1000
|80
|
|0.075 mm
|Surface
|'''strong contrast''' (dark engraving); gap 0.1 or even 0.8 left visible remains
|-
![[Birch Plywood]]
|2023-05
|
|engrave
|400
|30
|
|0.15 mm
|Surface
|'''slight contrast''' (light engraving); subtle steps at the outlines ('''scan gap should be smaller''')
|-
![[Linol]]
|2021-08
|
|Engrave
|250
|100
|
|
|Center
|According to Keno
|-
![[Laser Stamp Rubber]]
|2024-10
|2.3mm
|engrave
|200
|100
|
|0.1 mm
|surface
|[https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B07RWKH4PB Product Link]
|-
![[Laser Stamp Rubber]]
|2024-10
|2.3mm
|cut
|12
|100
|
|
|surface
|visible flames - try higher speed?!
[https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B07RWKH4PB Product Link]
|-
!Slate ''(Schiefer)''
|2021-12
|
|engrave
|150-250
|100
|
|
|Surface
|Engraving on smooth black slate pieces create a light grey engraving with a rough texture
|-
!Yardstick ''(Zollstock)'' - Hornbach, "Maurerlob", yellow
|2022-05
|
|engrave
|400
|40
|
|
|Surface
|light grey engraving - could even use a bit more power
|-
![https://www.deinlasershop.de/de/laser-material/graviermaterial/laserply/laserply-3160-gold-gebuerstet-schwarz-staerke-1-5-mm/ Laserply 3160] (coated acrylic; black/brushed gold)
|2022-05
|1.5 mm
|cut
|80
|100
|40
|
|Surface
|
|-
![https://www.deinlasershop.de/de/laser-material/graviermaterial/laserply/laserply-3160-gold-gebuerstet-schwarz-staerke-1-5-mm/ Laserply 3160] (coated acrylic; black/brushed gold)
|2022-05
|
|engrave
|400
|40
|
|
|Surface
|
|-
![[EVA Foam]]
|2022-08
|10mm
|cut
|40
|100
|
|
|Center
|
|-
![[Colored Card]]
|2022-10
|
|engrave
|700
|20
|
|
|Surface
|Brown card - got nice results (documentation to follow)
|-
![[Colored Card]]
|2022-10
|
|Cut
|350
|100
|
|
|Surface
|Brown card - got nice results (documentation to follow)
|-
![[Paper]]
|2024-06
|0.4mm
|cut
|50
|100
|
|
|
|Worked with speed 400, power 50 for small squares. But somehow didn't work for larger rounded shapes. Given values then worked for cutting shapes from (thick) colored paper.
|-
![[Paper]]
|2024-06
|0.4mm
|engrave
|700
|40
|
|
|
|Worked for engraving text into (thick) colored paper. Not very dark, though.
|-
![[PET]]
|2023-07
|0.75 mm
|cut
|60
|100
|
|
|Surface
|Hard to focus due to bend from the roll, lots of smoke! Leftover material from "Maker vs Virus"
|-
![[Masking Tape]] (e.g. on wood)
|2024-02
|0.1 mm
|cut
|50
|25
|10
|
|Surface
|Speed 100/power 50 also cut through with ease, but seemed to "wiggle" more
|-
!Oak [[Material:Wood|wood]]
|2024-10
|
|mark (vector engrave, weak cut)
|200
|20
|
|
|surface
|gives clean lines to follow with a [[Saws|saw]]
|-
!Plywood 3mm Bubinga (ROBOTIME)
|2024-10
|3 mm
|cut
|26
|100
|
|
|surface
|kerf 0.1 mm
|-
!Plywood 3mm yellow Lime (ROBOTIME)
|2024-10
|3 mm
|cut
|26
|100
|
|
|surface
|
|-
!Plywood 3mm yellow Lime (ROBOTIME)
|2024-10
|3 mm
|bleech
|500
|20
|
|
|surface
|do NOT use masking tape
|-
!Plywood 3mm yellow Lime (ROBOTIME)
|2024-10
|3 mm
|engraving
|200
|40
|
|
|surface
|DO use masking tape; <br> 2 passes
|-
!PMMA (acrylic glass) extruded
|2024-11
|1.5 mm
|cut
|35
|100
|
|
|surface
|kerf:0.1 mm
|-
!PMMA (acrylic glass) extruded
|2024-11
|1.5 mm
|cut
|45
|100
|
|
|surface
|kerf: 0.06 mm
|-
!PMMA (acrylic glass) extruded
|2024-11
|6 mm
|cut
|6
|100
|
|
|surface
|visible difference between top and bottom edge; <br> at speed 4 and 8 cutting edges looked less clean
|-
|}

If we haven't tried a material yet, these Spaces with similar machines might have:
* looong list of [https://wiki.makeitlabs.com/resource-areas/laser-cutters/retired-lasers/laser-settings-80w MakeIt Labs' "Laser Settings 80W"] (for [https://wiki.makeitlabs.com/resource-areas/laser-cutters/retired-lasers this machine])
*[http://wiki.zurich.fablab.ch/HPC_LS3040 smaller but probably equivalent "HPC"/"Laserscript" model at Fablab Zurich] (also has a less detailed [https://zurich.fablab.ch/2012/09/laser-cutter-hpc/ blog post])
*[https://github.com/madlabuk/madfablab/wiki/laser-cutter still pretty similar model at MadFabLab]

==Epilog Zing (30 W)==
''Outdated - we don't have this machine anymore, but perhaps other Spaces can use our information :-)''

Click '''"Expand"''' on the right to see the full table!

{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
|-
! scope="col" |Material
! scope="col" |Thickness
! scope="col" |Operation
! scope="col" |Power
! scope="col" |Speed
! scope="col" |Resolution (dpi)
! scope="col" |Frequency
! scope="col" |Focus
! scope="col" |Comments
|-
! scope="row" |[[Poplar Plywood]]
|4 mm
|cut
|80
|100
|500
|
|center (-2 mm)
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Poplar Plywood]]
|4 mm - '''any'''
|3D engrave
|100
|75
|250
|
|surface
|simple black & white design - works for [[QR Codes]]!
|-
! scope="row" |[[Poplar Plywood]]
|4 mm
|engrave
|100
|100
|250
|
|surface
|simple black & white design - nice brown color as result
|-
! scope="row" |[[Poplar Plywood]]
|9 mm
|cut
|100
|27
|250
|5000
|3mm
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Beech Plywood]]
|4 mm
|cut
|100
|60
|500
|
|center (-2 mm)
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Beech Plywood]]
|4 mm - '''any'''
|mark
|10
|100
|500
|
|surface
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Beech Plywood]]
|4 mm - '''any'''
|engrave 3D
|100
|100
|500
|
|surface
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[MDF]]
|3 mm
|cut
|100
|60
| 200
|2500
|center (-1.5 mm)
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Corrugated Fiberboard]]
|2 mm
|cut
| 25
|100
|
|
|surface
|
|-
! scope="row" |Silver anodised aluminium
|
|engrave
|50
|100
|500
|
| surface
|black & white design
|-
! scope="row" |[[XPS]] (extruded polystyrene)
|20 mm
|cut
|45
|100
|
|
| center (-10 mm)
| very wide kerf (~ 2 mm)!
|-
! scope="row" |[[Acrylic Glass]]
|3 mm
|cut
|100
|30
|500
|''5000 (default)''
|center (-1.5 mm)
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Acrylic Glass]]
|3 mm - ''any''
| mark
|20
|100
|500
|''5000 (default)''
|surface
|about 0.5 mm deep
|-
! scope="row" |[[Masking Tape|masking tape]] on metal
|''0.1 mm''
| engrave (let disappear)
|100
|100
|500
|
|surface
| experiment to prepare an [[Abrasive Blasting|abrasive blasting]] mask - not successful, was blasted away...should work well for painting though
|-
! scope="row" |thin [[cardbord]] (frozen pizza box)
|0.55 mm
|cut
|20
| 100
| 500
|''2500 (default)''
|surface
|
|-
! scope="row" |thin [[cardbord]] (frozen pizza box)
|0.55 mm
|mark
|8
|100
|500
|''2500 (default)''
|surface
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Material:Cellulose Acetate|cellulose acetate]] (overhead slides)
|<1 mm
|cut
|6-7
| 100
|500
|''5000 (default)''
|surface
|Power 7 cuts completely, Power 6 makes cutout adhere to template, but is easy to remove manually. Keep the printer clean ;)
|-
! scope="row" |[[blockboard]] (surface = birch veneer?)
|18 mm - ''any''
|engrave 3D
|20
|100
|500
|''2500 (default)''
|surface
|visible, but still letting the grain show through - more powerful settings (e.g. 100/100) go noticeably deeper but only a bit darker
|-
! scope="row" |[[Vulcanized Fiber|vulcanized fiber]]
|0.8 mm
|cut
|100
|100
| 200
|''5000 (default)''
| center (-0.4 mm)
|lower power not tested yet
|-
! scope="row" |[[Vulcanized Fiber|vulcanized fiber]]
|1.5 mm
|cut
|100
|80
|200
|''5000 (default)''
|center (-0.75 mm)
|higher speed not tested yet
|}

[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Laser Cutter Material Settings

2025-02-26T20:51:34Z

Leo: add info on cut failure

[[File:laser setting tests.jpg|thumb|right|200px|aftermath of a [[plywood]] testing session]]
Unfortunately you can't just calculate the perfect settings based on the '''power''' ("Watts") of a [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] because the actually delivered energy is always based on a combination of power and '''''speed''''', which is different for each brand or model of laser cutter. To make things more complicated, 100 % power in a cutting profile is not the same as 100 % power in an engraving profile... 

As there is always some trial and error involved, please share your experience with the others! You can often use experience from other machines as a ''rough'' starting point.

In general, cutting is usually done at 100 % power and the highest speed that will still result in a reliable cut. If 100 % speed still gets you through (e.g. paper or cardboard), you should reduce the power until you find the sweet spot. Besides the power setting, you can influence the invested energy by altering the pulse '''frequency''' - you may want to go lower on flammable materials like wood, where edges might otherwise become black, and higher on plastics like [[Acrylic Glass|acrylic glass]] where you are aiming for a "flame-polished" edge.<sup> [https://www.epiloglaser.com/assets/downloads/manuals/zing-manual-web.pdf page 46]</sup>

The width of the kerf ''(Schnittfuge)'' also depends on the laser settings and the material you're using and could be important for certain designs. [[User:Sebastian|Sebastian]] recommends to use the "DXF for Laser" [[Fusion 360]] export plugin<sup> [https://apps.autodesk.com/FUSION/en/Detail/Index?id=7634902334100976871]</sup> and testing different settings for each material so you get tight fitting joints.

== Laserscript LS6090 (80 W) ==

Check '''[[Laser_Cutter#Forbidden_Materials|Forbidden]]''' and '''[[Laser_Cutter#Possible_Materials_(Cutting/Engraving)|Possible Materials]]'''.

* Power range: 1-100 %
* Speed range: 200-400 mm/s ''recommended'' for engraving; higher speeds are achievable according to the [https://hpclaser.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LS6090-PRO-Data-Sheet-2019a.pdf data sheet]<sup> [what is the actual limit??]</sup>
* Why look at the '''date'''? CO<sub>2</sub> lasers loose power over time! New tubes installed: 2020-01 / ...

Here's what we've tried so far - please add your own experiences!

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! scope="col"| Material
!Date
(YYYY-MM)
! scope="col"| Thickness
! scope="col"| Operation
! scope="col" | Speed (mm/s)
! scope="col"| Power (%)
!Corner power
! scope="col"| Scan gap ("resolution")
! scope="col"| Focus
! scope="col"| Comments
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|
|2 mm
|cut
|30
|100
|
|
|
|
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2024-10
|irrelevant
|engrave
|500
|100
|
|0.1mm
|
|
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-02
|4 mm
|cut
|16
|100
|
|
|center (-2 mm)
|kerf: approx. 0.15 mm for a bit of wiggle room (for gluing)
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2021-06
|4 mm
|cut
|20
|80
|
|
|center (-2 mm)
|Cut looks good; e.g. "Bastel-Sperrholz Pappel 4mm" from Bauhaus
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-06
|4 mm
|cut
|40
|100
|30
|
|surface
|cut just about goes through - much better edge quality than center focus with s20/p80
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2024-07
|4 mm
|cut
|22
|100
|50
|
|surface
|cut *just* goes through, very nice edges
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-06
|4 mm
|mark (vector engrave, weak cut)
|400
|40
|
|
|surface
|nice fine line; small test shapes don't work well as everything is overriden by "corner power" settings
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-04
|4 mm
|engrave/extrude
|260
|90
|
|0.1mm
|
|Gives you ~2mm extrusion
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-04
|4 mm
|engrave/extrude
|520
|90
|
|0.1mm
|
|Gives you ~1mm extrusion
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-02
|6 mm
|cut
|12
|100
|
|
|center (-3 mm)
|kerf: approx. 0.15 mm for a bit of wiggle room (for gluing)
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2024-07
|6 mm
|cut
|08
|100
|50
|
|sub-center (-1 step)
|cut through easyly, also fine with tape
|-
![[Poplar Plywood]]
|2022-02
|8 mm
|cut
|7
|100
|
|
|center (-4 mm)
|kerf: approx. 0.15 mm for a bit of wiggle room (for gluing)
|-
!Beech Plywood (Buche)
|2024-11
|4 mm
|cut
|12-15
|100
|30
|
|surface
|Kerf: approx 0.1 mm
3 layer of wood, purchased from Hornbach as "Sperrholz Buche"
|-
!Spruce ''(Fichte)''
|2021-12
|4mm
|cut
|10
|100
|
|
|center
|Kleinteile > 3mm
|-
! [https://www.bauhaus.info/schneidebretter-drehteller/schneidebrett/p/26045104 Bamboo cutting board]
|2020-08
|
| engrave
| 200
| 20
|
|
| Surface
| quite good results. Not very deep, but good visibility.
|-
! Black anodized [[aluminium]] (bead blasted surface finish)
|2020-08
|
| engrave
| 200
| 60
|
|
| Surface
| Very clean and bright lines. No change of surface texture to-touch. Increase resolution for finer details.
|-
! [[MDF]]
|2020-08
| 3 mm
| cut
| 19
| 100
|
|
| Center (1.5mm)
| For larger objects, increase the power/decrease speed to adjust for unevenness of the object on the table.
|-
![[Acrylic Glass]] (PMMA)
|
|3mm
|cut
|25
|100
|80
|
|Center (-1.5mm)
|
|-
![[Acrylic Glass]] (PMMA)
|
|3mm
|cut
|20
|100
|80
|
|Top Surface
|
|-
![[Acrylic Glass]] (PMMA)
|2021-10
|10mm
|cut
|3.5
|100
|100
|
|Center
|
|-
!Protective Foil on [[Acrylic Glass]]
|
|0.05mm
|cut
|100
|50
|15
|
|Center (-1.5mm)
|
|-
![[Acrylic Glass]] (PMMA) - GS
|2021-03
|5 mm
|engrave
|400
|50
|
|
|Surface
|Good visibility
|-
![[Acrylic Glass]] (PMMA) - GS
|
|5 mm
|cut
|2
|100
|
|
|Surface
|Cut looks good
|-
![[Glass]]
|2021-04
|
|Engrave
|300
|40
|
|
|Surface
|
|-
!Glass Black Paint
|2021-10
|
|Engrave
|300
|100
|
|
|Surface
|scan gap 0.1, Bi-dir, Blow, Jo
|-
!Glass Black Paint
|2022-10
|
|Engrave
|300
|60
|
|
|Surface
|scan gap 0.05, Bi-dir, 3bar, Jo
|-
!Softshell (100% Polyester)
|2021-04
|
|Engrave
|450
| 15
|
|
|Surface
|Using more power will burn through the material!
|-
!Fleece (fabric)
|2021-04
|
|Engrave
|450
|20
|
|
|Surface
|Engraving results in general are good.
The visibility of the engraving depends heavily on the color of the used fabric.
|-
!Fleece (fabric, Polyester)
|2024-10
|4 mm
|cut
|90
|85
|75
|
|center (-2 mm)
|Cut though, borders melted
|-
![[Birch Plywood]]
|2024-11
|5 mm
|cut
|8
|100
|50
|
|Surface
|kerf ~0.5mm on both sides
<nowiki>!! WARNING !!</nowiki>
As of 26.02.2024 the Laser tube did not have enough power anymore for a reliable cut
|-
![[Birch Plywood]]
|2021-08
|8mm
|cut
|10
|100
|
|
|Surface
|Cut looks good
|-
![[Birch Plywood]]
|2023-05
|
|engrave
|1000
|80
|
|0.075 mm
|Surface
|'''strong contrast''' (dark engraving); gap 0.1 or even 0.8 left visible remains
|-
![[Birch Plywood]]
|2023-05
|
|engrave
|400
|30
|
|0.15 mm
|Surface
|'''slight contrast''' (light engraving); subtle steps at the outlines ('''scan gap should be smaller''')
|-
![[Linol]]
|2021-08
|
|Engrave
|250
|100
|
|
|Center
|According to Keno
|-
![[Laser Stamp Rubber]]
|2024-10
|2.3mm
|engrave
|200
|100
|
|0.1 mm
|surface
|[https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B07RWKH4PB Product Link]
|-
![[Laser Stamp Rubber]]
|2024-10
|2.3mm
|cut
|12
|100
|
|
|surface
|visible flames - try higher speed?!
[https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B07RWKH4PB Product Link]
|-
!Slate ''(Schiefer)''
|2021-12
|
|engrave
|150-250
|100
|
|
|Surface
|Engraving on smooth black slate pieces create a light grey engraving with a rough texture
|-
!Yardstick ''(Zollstock)'' - Hornbach, "Maurerlob", yellow
|2022-05
|
|engrave
|400
|40
|
|
|Surface
|light grey engraving - could even use a bit more power
|-
![https://www.deinlasershop.de/de/laser-material/graviermaterial/laserply/laserply-3160-gold-gebuerstet-schwarz-staerke-1-5-mm/ Laserply 3160] (coated acrylic; black/brushed gold)
|2022-05
|1.5 mm
|cut
|80
|100
|40
|
|Surface
|
|-
![https://www.deinlasershop.de/de/laser-material/graviermaterial/laserply/laserply-3160-gold-gebuerstet-schwarz-staerke-1-5-mm/ Laserply 3160] (coated acrylic; black/brushed gold)
|2022-05
|
|engrave
|400
|40
|
|
|Surface
|
|-
![[EVA Foam]]
|2022-08
|10mm
|cut
|40
|100
|
|
|Center
|
|-
![[Colored Card]]
|2022-10
|
|engrave
|700
|20
|
|
|Surface
|Brown card - got nice results (documentation to follow)
|-
![[Colored Card]]
|2022-10
|
|Cut
|350
|100
|
|
|Surface
|Brown card - got nice results (documentation to follow)
|-
![[Paper]]
|2024-06
|0.4mm
|cut
|50
|100
|
|
|
|Worked with speed 400, power 50 for small squares. But somehow didn't work for larger rounded shapes. Given values then worked for cutting shapes from (thick) colored paper.
|-
![[Paper]]
|2024-06
|0.4mm
|engrave
|700
|40
|
|
|
|Worked for engraving text into (thick) colored paper. Not very dark, though.
|-
![[PET]]
|2023-07
|0.75 mm
|cut
|60
|100
|
|
|Surface
|Hard to focus due to bend from the roll, lots of smoke! Leftover material from "Maker vs Virus"
|-
![[Masking Tape]] (e.g. on wood)
|2024-02
|0.1 mm
|cut
|50
|25
|10
|
|Surface
|Speed 100/power 50 also cut through with ease, but seemed to "wiggle" more
|-
!Oak [[Material:Wood|wood]]
|2024-10
|
|mark (vector engrave, weak cut)
|200
|20
|
|
|surface
|gives clean lines to follow with a [[Saws|saw]]
|-
!Plywood 3mm Bubinga (ROBOTIME)
|2024-10
|3 mm
|cut
|26
|100
|
|
|surface
|kerf 0.1 mm
|-
!Plywood 3mm yellow Lime (ROBOTIME)
|2024-10
|3 mm
|cut
|26
|100
|
|
|surface
|
|-
!Plywood 3mm yellow Lime (ROBOTIME)
|2024-10
|3 mm
|bleech
|500
|20
|
|
|surface
|do NOT use masking tape
|-
!Plywood 3mm yellow Lime (ROBOTIME)
|2024-10
|3 mm
|engraving
|200
|40
|
|
|surface
|DO use masking tape; <br> 2 passes
|-
!PMMA (acrylic glass) extruded
|2024-11
|1.5 mm
|cut
|35
|100
|
|
|surface
|kerf:0.1 mm
|-
!PMMA (acrylic glass) extruded
|2024-11
|1.5 mm
|cut
|45
|100
|
|
|surface
|kerf: 0.06 mm
|-
!PMMA (acrylic glass) extruded
|2024-11
|6 mm
|cut
|6
|100
|
|
|surface
|visible difference between top and bottom edge; <br> at speed 4 and 8 cutting edges looked less clean
|-
|}

If we haven't tried a material yet, these Spaces with similar machines might have:
* looong list of [https://wiki.makeitlabs.com/resource-areas/laser-cutters/retired-lasers/laser-settings-80w MakeIt Labs' "Laser Settings 80W"] (for [https://wiki.makeitlabs.com/resource-areas/laser-cutters/retired-lasers this machine])
*[http://wiki.zurich.fablab.ch/HPC_LS3040 smaller but probably equivalent "HPC"/"Laserscript" model at Fablab Zurich] (also has a less detailed [https://zurich.fablab.ch/2012/09/laser-cutter-hpc/ blog post])
*[https://github.com/madlabuk/madfablab/wiki/laser-cutter still pretty similar model at MadFabLab]

==Epilog Zing (30 W)==
''Outdated - we don't have this machine anymore, but perhaps other Spaces can use our information :-)''

Click '''"Expand"''' on the right to see the full table!

{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
|-
! scope="col" |Material
! scope="col" |Thickness
! scope="col" |Operation
! scope="col" |Power
! scope="col" |Speed
! scope="col" |Resolution (dpi)
! scope="col" |Frequency
! scope="col" |Focus
! scope="col" |Comments
|-
! scope="row" |[[Poplar Plywood]]
|4 mm
|cut
|80
|100
|500
|
|center (-2 mm)
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Poplar Plywood]]
|4 mm - '''any'''
|3D engrave
|100
|75
|250
|
|surface
|simple black & white design - works for [[QR Codes]]!
|-
! scope="row" |[[Poplar Plywood]]
|4 mm
|engrave
|100
|100
|250
|
|surface
|simple black & white design - nice brown color as result
|-
! scope="row" |[[Poplar Plywood]]
|9 mm
|cut
|100
|27
|250
|5000
|3mm
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Beech Plywood]]
|4 mm
|cut
|100
|60
|500
|
|center (-2 mm)
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Beech Plywood]]
|4 mm - '''any'''
|mark
|10
|100
|500
|
|surface
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Beech Plywood]]
|4 mm - '''any'''
|engrave 3D
|100
|100
|500
|
|surface
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[MDF]]
|3 mm
|cut
|100
|60
| 200
|2500
|center (-1.5 mm)
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Corrugated Fiberboard]]
|2 mm
|cut
| 25
|100
|
|
|surface
|
|-
! scope="row" |Silver anodised aluminium
|
|engrave
|50
|100
|500
|
| surface
|black & white design
|-
! scope="row" |[[XPS]] (extruded polystyrene)
|20 mm
|cut
|45
|100
|
|
| center (-10 mm)
| very wide kerf (~ 2 mm)!
|-
! scope="row" |[[Acrylic Glass]]
|3 mm
|cut
|100
|30
|500
|''5000 (default)''
|center (-1.5 mm)
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Acrylic Glass]]
|3 mm - ''any''
| mark
|20
|100
|500
|''5000 (default)''
|surface
|about 0.5 mm deep
|-
! scope="row" |[[Masking Tape|masking tape]] on metal
|''0.1 mm''
| engrave (let disappear)
|100
|100
|500
|
|surface
| experiment to prepare an [[Abrasive Blasting|abrasive blasting]] mask - not successful, was blasted away...should work well for painting though
|-
! scope="row" |thin [[cardbord]] (frozen pizza box)
|0.55 mm
|cut
|20
| 100
| 500
|''2500 (default)''
|surface
|
|-
! scope="row" |thin [[cardbord]] (frozen pizza box)
|0.55 mm
|mark
|8
|100
|500
|''2500 (default)''
|surface
|
|-
! scope="row" |[[Material:Cellulose Acetate|cellulose acetate]] (overhead slides)
|<1 mm
|cut
|6-7
| 100
|500
|''5000 (default)''
|surface
|Power 7 cuts completely, Power 6 makes cutout adhere to template, but is easy to remove manually. Keep the printer clean ;)
|-
! scope="row" |[[blockboard]] (surface = birch veneer?)
|18 mm - ''any''
|engrave 3D
|20
|100
|500
|''2500 (default)''
|surface
|visible, but still letting the grain show through - more powerful settings (e.g. 100/100) go noticeably deeper but only a bit darker
|-
! scope="row" |[[Vulcanized Fiber|vulcanized fiber]]
|0.8 mm
|cut
|100
|100
| 200
|''5000 (default)''
| center (-0.4 mm)
|lower power not tested yet
|-
! scope="row" |[[Vulcanized Fiber|vulcanized fiber]]
|1.5 mm
|cut
|100
|80
|200
|''5000 (default)''
|center (-0.75 mm)
|higher speed not tested yet
|}

[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

WorkBee

2024-09-22T14:04:05Z

Leo: removed "is defective" notice

Autodesk Fusion 2D Contour Machining

2024-09-22T13:08:12Z

Leo: Even more detailed and verbose explanations

<span id="fusion-360-process-for-contour-machining"></span>
== Autodesk Fusion 360 Process for Contour Machining ==

This page is a step-by-step walkthrough for setting up a contour milling operation in [[ Autodesk Fusion ]] for the [[WorkBee]] CNC specifically, but it should be easy to adapt this to any similar machine.

You will start with a New Fusion 360 Document and end up with a G-Code file ready to upload to the machine.

For further information and the explanation for each step, consult the [https://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=GUID75B6821B-DE26-4E3B-AF10-4A54131CD9E4 Fusion 360 Documentation]<span id="prepare"></span>
=== Prepare ===

To get started, you will need to create the 2D geometry you’d like to mill out. For testing, a simple square with about 50 mm side length is a good starting point. Extrude it by the material thickness you plan to machine.
[[File:Fusion-test-part.png|center|thumb|example test part]]

Then, in the top left corner of Fusion 360, switch from the “'''Design'''” workspace to the “'''Manufacture'''” workspace. This is where you’ll define your toolpaths and machine settings.

==== Import Workbee CNC ====
'''Before you get started, make sure you have properly imported the [https://github.com/comakingspace/WorkBee/tree/master latest version] of the machine definition and postprocessor into Fusion 360.'''

Check the last updated date on the GitHub page above. If you haven't imported the latest definitions since then, you'll need to add them.

At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "Manage > Machine Library". Then under "My Machines > Local" you can ''import'' (NOT CREATE) the machine definition.

'''Also seperately import the post processor!''' Under the machine entry in your machine library in the "Post:" section, you can click the folder icon to import the latest post processor from the GitHub page.
[[File:F360-machine-import.png|center|thumb|385x385px|The import process]]
<span id="create-your-milling-tool"></span>

==== Create your Milling Tool ====
At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "Manage > Tool Library" to open the tool library. Navigate to "Local > Library". This is where you'll save all of your endmill data.

Click on "['''+''']" to add a new tool. Select the appropriate geometry, most likely "Flat End Mill".
[[File:Fusion-tool-create.png|center|thumb|500x500px|The tool creation menu]]

'''Tab 1: General'''

Here you can name your endmill. Describe them well, you'll mix them up otherwise. Also enter sourcing information (such as aliexpress links) here, you'll thank yourself later.

'''Tab 2: Cutter'''

Take Measurements of your tool for dimensions using calipers (Messschieber) and populate the values accordingly.

Adjust number of flutes and the geometry to match your endmill. I recommend setting "length below holder", "shoulder length" and "flute length" to the same value, that being the length of fully formed cutting flutes of your endmill.

'''Tab 3: Shaft'''

leave as is

'''Tab 4: Holder'''

leave as is

'''Tab 5: Cutting Data'''
[[File:F360-tool-cutting-data.png|thumb|375x375px|Cutting Data Tab]]

The following cutting data is a recommended starting point for a 1/8” (3.175mm) 2-flute flat nose endmill cutting plywood.

Many of the values (marked with ''fx'') are calculated automatically and don't need adjusting.

Tweak these values as you gain experience:

* '''Spindle Speed (Drehzahl):''' 16,000 RPM
* '''Cutting Feedrate (Schnittvorschub):''' 1000 mm/min
* '''Ramp Feedrate (Helixvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Plunge Feedrate (Eintauchvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Coolant:''' ''DISABLE'' (To prevent errors, the WorkBee doesn’t have a coolant system)
'''Tab 6: Post Processor'''

leave as is.

Sanity check all data once over and click "accept" to confirm.

=== Configure Setup ===
[[File:Image.png|thumb]]

Create by selecting "Setup > New Setup"

'''Tab 1: Setup'''

* '''Machine''':
** Select the [[Autodesk Fusion 2D Contour Machining#Import Workbee CNC|latest]] machine definition
* '''Workpiece Coordinate System''' (WCS)
** '''Orientation''': Model Orientation
** '''Origin''': Model Box Point
** '''Model Point''': Select [[:File:Fusion-job-setup.jpg|Front-Left-Top corner]]

'''Tab 2: Stock'''

* '''Mode''': Relative size box
** '''Stock side offset''': 10 mm
** '''Stock top offset''': 0 mm
** '''Stock bottom offset''': 0 mm

'''Tab 3: Part Position'''

leave as is

'''Tab 4: Post Process'''

Optional: adjust program name.

leave as is.
[[File:Fusion-job-setup.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|Setting the Workpiece Coordinate System (WCS) origin]]
=== Set up 2<span id="set-up-2d-contour-operation"></span>D contour operation ===
At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "2D > 2D Contour" to create a new 2D contour milling operation.
[[File:Workbee-tutorial-2d-contour.png|right|275x275px]]

'''Tab 1: Tool'''

* '''Tool:''' Select the appropriate Tool
* '''Feed & Speed:''' Ensure the cut parameters are sane and have been properly inherited from the tool

'''Tab 2: Geometry'''

* '''Contour Selection:''' Select the 2D contour you want to machine (the bottom edge of your design)
* '''Tabs:''' Enable
** '''Tab Shape:''' Triangle
** '''Tab dimensions''':
*** '''Width''': 6 mm
*** '''Height''': 3 mm
*** '''Distance''': 40 mm

'''Tab 3: Heights''' - leave as is

'''Tab 4: Passes'''

* '''Passes'''
** '''Sideways Compensation''': Right (Rechtsfräsen)
** ''OPTIONAL:'' '''Preserve order''' Check this box if you have nested features (cutouts within cutouts) to maintain the cutting order
* Disable all the other options

'''Tab 5: Multi-Axis'''

* leave as is

'''Tab 6: Linking'''

* '''Lead-In:''' Deactivate
* '''Lead-Out:''' Deactivate
* '''Ramp:''' Enable
** '''Maximum Ramp Stepdown:''' Start with 3-6 mm and adjust based on endmill strength, desired cut quality, and material thickness

'''Confirm the Operation with OK. Fusion 360 will now display a preview of the operation.'''
[[File:Fusion-cam-job.png|center|thumb|400x400px|How your preview should look]]
<span id="simulate-to-check-export"></span>
=== Simulate to check & Export ===
[[File:Workbee-tutorial-export.png|thumb|276x276px|post processor menu]]
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, use the “Actions > Simulate” tool to check you haven’t missed anything
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, use "Actions > Post Process"
* '''Use Machine Configuration''' (“Maschinenkonfiguration verwenden”):
** '''Select Machine''': “Comakingspace CNC”
** '''Double-check Post-Processor''': “WorkBee CoMakingSpace RRF”
* Export

Your G-Code file is ready for upload to the CNC!

File:Fusion-job-setup.jpg

2024-09-22T12:57:37Z

Leo:

setting up a milling job in fusion 360, currently selecting the WCS origin

File:Image.png

2024-09-22T12:55:23Z

Leo: Leo uploaded a new version of File:Image.png

f360 cam setup menu

File:Fusion-cam-job.png

2024-09-22T12:52:23Z

Leo:

A 2D contour CAM Job in fusion 360

File:Fusion-tool-create.png

2024-09-22T12:47:06Z

Leo:

Autodesk Fusion Tool Library Tool Creation menu

File:Fusion-test-part.png

2024-09-22T12:40:49Z

Leo:

a simple fusion 360 test part

Autodesk Fusion 2D Contour Machining

2024-09-22T12:27:08Z

Leo: readability improvements

<span id="fusion-360-process-for-contour-machining"></span>
== Autodesk Fusion 360 Process for Contour Machining ==

The following section will walk you through setting up a contour milling operation in [[ Autodesk Fusion ]] for the [[ WorkBee ]] CNC specifically, but it should be easy to adapt this to any similar machine.

You will start with a New Fusion 360 Document and end up with a G-Code file ready to upload to the machine.

For further information and the explanation for each step, consult the [https://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=GUID75B6821B-DE26-4E3B-AF10-4A54131CD9E4 Fusion 360 Documentation]<span id="prepare"></span>
=== Prepare ===

To get started, you will need to create the 2D geometry you’d like to mill out. For testing, a simple square with about 50 mm side length is a good starting point. Extrude it by the material thickness you plan to machine.

Then, in the top left corner of Fusion 360, switch from the “Design” workspace to the “'''Manufacture'''” workspace. This is where you’ll define your toolpaths and machine settings.

==== Import Workbee CNC ====
'''Before you get started, make sure you have properly imported the [https://github.com/comakingspace/WorkBee/tree/master latest version] of the machine definition and postprocessor into Fusion 360.'''

Check the last updated date on the GitHub page above. If you haven't imported the latest definitions since then, you'll need to add them.

At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "Manage > Machine Library". Then under "My Machines > Local" you can ''import'' (NOT CREATE) the machine definition.

'''ALSO SEPARATELY IMPORT THE LATEST POST PROCESSOR!''' Under the machine entry in your machine library, the "Post:" section, you can click the folder icon to import the latest post processor from the GitHub page.
[[File:F360-machine-import.png|center|thumb|385x385px|The import process]]
<span id="create-your-milling-tool"></span>

==== Create your Milling Tool ====
At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "Manage > Tool Library" to open the tool library. Navigate to "Local > Library". This is where you'll save all of your endmill data.

Click on "['''+''']" to add a new tool. Select the appropriate geometry, most likely "Flat End Mill".

'''Tab 1: General'''

Here you can name your endmill. Describe them well, you'll mix them up otherwise. Also enter sourcing information (such as aliexpress links) here, you'll thank yourself later.

'''Tab 2: Cutter'''

Take Measurements of your tool for dimensions using calipers (Messschieber) and populate the values accordingly.

Adjust number of flutes and the geometry to match your endmill. I recommend setting "length below holder", "shoulder length" and "flute length" to the same value, that being the length of fully formed cutting flutes of your endmill.

'''Tab 3: Shaft'''

leave as is

'''Tab 4: Holder'''

leave as is

'''Tab 5: Cutting Data'''
[[File:F360-tool-cutting-data.png|thumb|375x375px|Cutting Data Tab]]

The following cutting data is a recommended starting point for a 1/8” (3.175mm) 2-flute flat nose endmill cutting plywood.

Many of the values (marked with ''fx'') are calculated automatically and don't need adjusting.

Tweak these values as you gain experience:

* '''Spindle Speed (Drehzahl):''' 16,000 RPM
* '''Cutting Feedrate (Schnittvorschub):''' 1000 mm/min
* '''Ramp Feedrate (Helixvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Plunge Feedrate (Eintauchvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Coolant:''' ''DISABLE'' (To prevent errors, the WorkBee doesn’t have a coolant system)
'''Tab 6: Post Processor'''

leave as is.

Sanity check all data once over and click "accept" to confirm.

=== Configure Setup ===
[[File:Image.png|thumb]]

Create by selecting "Setup > New Setup"

'''Tab 1: Setup'''

* Machine:
** Select the [[Autodesk Fusion 2D Contour Machining#Import Workbee CNC|latest]] machine definition
* Workpiece Coordinate System
** Origin: Stock Box Point
** Select Front-Left-Top corner

'''Tab 2: Stock'''

* Mode: Relative size box
** Stock side offset: 5 mm
** Stock top offset: 0 mm
** Stock bottom offset: 0 mm

'''Tab 3: Part Position'''

leave as is

'''Tab 4: Post Process'''

Optional: adjust program name.

leave as is.<span id="set-up-2d-contour-operation"></span>
=== Set up 2D contour operation ===
At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "2D > 2D Contour" to create a new 2D contour milling operation.
[[File:Workbee-tutorial-2d-contour.png|right|275x275px]]

'''Tab 1: Tool'''

* Select the appropriate Tool
* Ensure the cut parameters are sane and have been properly inherited from the tool

'''Tab 2: Geometry'''

* Select the 2D contour you want to machine (the bottom edge of your design)
* Enable tabs
** '''Tab Shape:''' Triangle
** Tab dimensions example:
*** 6 mm width
*** 4 mm height
*** 30 mm Distance

'''Tab 3: Heights''' - leave as is

'''Tab 4: Passes'''

* Sideways Compensation: Right (Rechtsfräsen)
* '''OPTIONAL: Preserve order''' Check this box if you have nested features (cutouts within cutouts) to maintain the cutting order
* '''OPTIONAL: Smoothing Filter''' Enable for smaller file sizes

'''Tab 5: Multi-Axis'''

* leave as is

'''Tab 6: Linking'''

* '''Lead-In:''' Deactivate
* '''Lead-Out:''' Deactivate
* '''Ramp:''' Enable
** '''Maximum Ramp Stepdown:''' Start with 3-6 mm and adjust based on endmill strength, desired cut quality, and material thickness

'''Confirm the Operation with OK. Fusion 360 will now display a preview of the operation.'''

<span id="simulate-to-check-export"></span>
=== Simulate to check & Export ===
[[File:Workbee-tutorial-export.png|thumb|276x276px|post processor menu]]
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, use the “Actions > Simulate” tool to check you haven’t missed anything
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, use "Actions > Post Process"
* Check Use Machine Configuration (“Maschinenkonfiguration verwenden”)
** Select Machine: “Comakingspace CNC”
** Check Post-Processor: “WorkBee CoMakingSpace RRF”
* Export

Your G-Code file is ready for upload to the CNC!

WorkBee Machine Operation

2024-09-22T12:25:18Z

Leo: added links to youtube tutorials

== Operating the WorkBee CNC ==

This Page explains how operate the [[Workbee CNC]] to create parts.<span id="general-machine-operation"></span>

== General Machine Operation ==

Interfacing with the WorkBee CNC has changed significantly after the 2024 rebuild.
[[File:Workbee-overview-labeled.png|alt=a labeled overview of the work area|center|thumb|763x763px|the new machine setup]]
'''The machine:'''

To start the Machine, the Electronics Panel on the left have a power strip (Mehrfachstecker) with a toggle switch. This is the main on/off switch.

After starting, ensure both E-Stops are not pressed. The machine will start up, and you can open the Web Interface on the Tablet, PC or any other device.<span id="web-interface"></span>

=== Web Interface ===

The WorkBee CNC is controlled via a Web Interface accessible through the CoMakingSpace network. On any connected device, visit [http://comakingcnc/ http://comakingcnc/] or [http://10.2.0.3 http://10.2.0.3] to control the machine and upload jobs.

To start milling, you begin by installing an endmill. Use the [[:File:Workbee-wrench.png|Wrench]] to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Klz9pB9qDjI&t=33s insert the endmill of your choice] into the spindle.

Then start the machine, and use the ''Machine Movement'' Dashboard on the Web Interface to jog the machine XY over your workpiece origin (usually the left-front corner).

Then, slowly lower down until the tip of the endmill touches the workpiece. You can use the [https://youtu.be/UaDMzl_ZXVg?si=14Hr0xJUmM1L_L4A&t=368 paper method].

This is your workpiece zero point. Save this point by clicking on ''Set Work XYZ'' on the top right of the ''Machine Movement'' section.

<div class="figure">[[File:Workbee-webinterface-jog.png|center|thumb|728x728px]]</div>
=== Starting a job ===
You can upload your job to the machine through the ''Jobs'' tab on the left vertical menu.

When starting a milling job, make sure the workpiece is secured well and you are wearing proper PPE.

Next, start your job via the Web Interface. The machine will home.

Then, after homing, you can start the spindle with the button on the front panel interface. This button will not work before homing or if no job is running to ensure someone is present at the start of any operation.

Sit back, relax, and keep an eye out in case you need to use the E-Stop - the machine will begin its milling operation.

Autodesk Fusion 2D Contour Machining

2024-09-22T12:00:34Z

Leo: link fix

<span id="fusion-360-process-for-contour-machining"></span>
== Autodesk Fusion 360 Process for Contour Machining ==

The following section will walk you through setting up a contour milling operation in [[ Autodesk Fusion ]] for the [[ WorkBee ]] CNC specifically, but it should be easy to adapt this to any similar machine. You will start with a New Fusion 360 Document and end up with a G-Code file ready to upload to the machine.

For further information and the explanation for each step, consult the [https://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=GUID75B6821B-DE26-4E3B-AF10-4A54131CD9E4 Fusion 360 Documentation]<span id="prepare"></span>
=== Prepare ===

To get started, you will need to create the 2D geometry you’d like to mill out. For testing, a simple square with about 50 mm side length is a good starting point. Extrude it by the material thickness you plan to machine.

Then, in the top left corner of Fusion 360, switch from the “Design” workspace to the “'''Manufacture'''” workspace. This is where you’ll define your toolpaths and machine settings.

==== Import Workbee CNC ====
'''Before you get started, make sure you have properly imported the [https://github.com/comakingspace/WorkBee/tree/master latest version] of the machine definition and postprocessor into Fusion 360.'''

Check the last updated date on the GitHub page above. If you haven't imported the latest definitions since then, you'll need to add them.

At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "Manage > Machine Library". Then under "My Machines > Local" you can ''import'' (NOT CREATE) the machine definition.

'''ALSO SEPARATELY IMPORT THE LATEST POST PROCESSOR!''' Under the machine entry in your machine library, the "Post:" section, you can click the folder icon to import the latest post processor from the GitHub page.
[[File:F360-machine-import.png|center|thumb|385x385px|The import process]]
<span id="create-your-milling-tool"></span>

==== Create your Milling Tool ====
At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "Manage > Tool Library" to open the tool library. Navigate to "Local > Library". This is where you'll save all of your endmill data.

Click on "['''+''']" to add a new tool. Select the appropriate geometry, most likely "Flat End Mill".

'''Tab 1: General'''

Here you can name your endmill. Describe them well, you'll mix them up otherwise. Also enter sourcing information (such as aliexpress links) here, you'll thank yourself later.

'''Tab 2: Cutter'''

Take Measurements of your tool for dimensions using calipers (Messschieber) and populate the values accordingly.

Adjust number of flutes and the geometry to match your endmill. I recommend setting "length below holder", "shoulder length" and "flute length" to the same value, that being the length of fully formed cutting flutes of your endmill.

'''Tab 3: Shaft'''

leave as is

'''Tab 4: Holder'''

leave as is

'''Tab 5: Cutting Data'''
[[File:F360-tool-cutting-data.png|thumb|375x375px|Cutting Data Tab]]

The following cutting data is a recommended starting point for a 1/8” (3.175mm) 2-flute flat nose endmill cutting plywood. Many of the values (marked with ''fx'') are calculated automatically and don't need adjusting.

Tweak these values as you gain experience:

* '''Spindle Speed (Drehzahl):''' 16,000 RPM
* '''Cutting Feedrate (Schnittvorschub):''' 1000 mm/min
* '''Ramp Feedrate (Helixvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Plunge Feedrate (Eintauchvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Coolant:''' ''DISABLE'' (To prevent errors, the WorkBee doesn’t have a coolant system)
'''Tab 6: Post Processor'''

leave as is.

Sanity check all data once over and click "accept" to confirm.

=== Configure Setup ===
[[File:Image.png|thumb]]

Create by selecting "Setup > New Setup"

'''Tab 1: Setup'''

* Machine:
** Select the [[Autodesk Fusion 2D Contour Machining#Import Workbee CNC|latest]] machine definition
* Workpiece Coordinate System
** Origin: Stock Box Point
** Select Front-Left-Top corner

'''Tab 2: Stock'''

* Mode: Relative size box
** Stock side offset: 5 mm
** Stock top offset: 0 mm
** Stock bottom offset: 0 mm

'''Tab 3: Part Position'''

leave as is

'''Tab 4: Post Process'''

Optional: adjust program name.

leave as is.<span id="set-up-2d-contour-operation"></span>
=== Set up 2D contour operation ===
At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "2D > 2D Contour" to create a new 2D contour milling operation.
[[File:Workbee-tutorial-2d-contour.png|right|275x275px]]

'''Tab 1: Tool'''

* Select the appropriate Tool
* Ensure the cut parameters are sane and have been properly inherited from the tool

'''Tab 2: Geometry'''

* Select the 2D contour you want to machine (the bottom edge of your design)
* Enable tabs
** '''Tab Shape:''' Triangle
** Tab dimensions example:
*** 6 mm width
*** 4 mm height
*** 30 mm Distance

'''Tab 3: Heights''' - leave as is

'''Tab 4: Passes'''

* Sideways Compensation: Right (Rechtsfräsen)
* '''OPTIONAL: Preserve order''' Check this box if you have nested features (cutouts within cutouts) to maintain the cutting order
* '''OPTIONAL: Smoothing Filter''' Enable for smaller file sizes

'''Tab 5: Multi-Axis'''

* leave as is

'''Tab 6: Linking'''

* '''Lead-In:''' Deactivate
* '''Lead-Out:''' Deactivate
* '''Ramp:''' Enable
** '''Maximum Ramp Stepdown:''' Start with 3-6 mm and adjust based on endmill strength, desired cut quality, and material thickness

'''Confirm the Operation with OK. Fusion 360 will now display a preview of the operation.'''

<span id="simulate-to-check-export"></span>
=== Simulate to check & Export ===
[[File:Workbee-tutorial-export.png|thumb|276x276px|post processor menu]]
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, use the “Actions > Simulate” tool to check you haven’t missed anything
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, use "Actions > Post Process"
* Check Use Machine Configuration (“Maschinenkonfiguration verwenden”)
** Select Machine: “Comakingspace CNC”
** Check Post-Processor: “WorkBee CoMakingSpace RRF”
* Export

You now have a G-Code file to upload to the CNC via its web interface!

WorkBee

2024-09-22T11:58:19Z

Leo: Workbee Docs: splitting things up

Autodesk Fusion 2D Contour Machining

2024-09-22T11:51:10Z

Leo: Workbee Docs: splitting things up

<span id="fusion-360-process-for-contour-machining"></span>
== Autodesk Fusion 360 Process for Contour Machining ==

The following section will walk you through setting up a contour milling operation in [[ Autodesk Fusion ]] for the [[ WorkBee ]] CNC specifically, but it should be easy to adapt this to any similar machine. You will start with a New Fusion 360 Document and end up with a G-Code file ready to upload to the machine.

For further information and the explanation for each step, consult the [https://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=GUID75B6821B-DE26-4E3B-AF10-4A54131CD9E4 Fusion 360 Documentation]<span id="prepare"></span>
=== Prepare ===

To get started, you will need to create the 2D geometry you’d like to mill out. For testing, a simple square with about 50 mm side length is a good starting point. Extrude it by the material thickness you plan to machine.

Then, in the top left corner of Fusion 360, switch from the “Design” workspace to the “'''Manufacture'''” workspace. This is where you’ll define your toolpaths and machine settings.

==== Import Workbee CNC ====
'''Before you get started, make sure you have properly imported the [https://github.com/comakingspace/WorkBee/tree/master latest version] of the machine definition and postprocessor into Fusion 360.'''

Check the last updated date on the GitHub page above. If you haven't imported the latest definitions since then, you'll need to add them.

At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "Manage > Machine Library". Then under "My Machines > Local" you can ''import'' (NOT CREATE) the machine definition.

'''ALSO SEPARATELY IMPORT THE LATEST POST PROCESSOR!''' Under the machine entry in your machine library, the "Post:" section, you can click the folder icon to import the latest post processor from the GitHub page.
[[File:F360-machine-import.png|center|thumb|385x385px|The import process]]
<span id="create-your-milling-tool"></span>

==== Create your Milling Tool ====
At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "Manage > Tool Library" to open the tool library. Navigate to "Local > Library". This is where you'll save all of your endmill data.

Click on "['''+''']" to add a new tool. Select the appropriate geometry, most likely "Flat End Mill".

'''Tab 1: General'''

Here you can name your endmill. Describe them well, you'll mix them up otherwise. Also enter sourcing information (such as aliexpress links) here, you'll thank yourself later.

'''Tab 2: Cutter'''

Take Measurements of your tool for dimensions using calipers (Messschieber) and populate the values accordingly.

Adjust number of flutes and the geometry to match your endmill. I recommend setting "length below holder", "shoulder length" and "flute length" to the same value, that being the length of fully formed cutting flutes of your endmill.

'''Tab 3: Shaft'''

leave as is

'''Tab 4: Holder'''

leave as is

'''Tab 5: Cutting Data'''
[[File:F360-tool-cutting-data.png|thumb|375x375px|Cutting Data Tab]]

The following cutting data is a recommended starting point for a 1/8” (3.175mm) 2-flute flat nose endmill cutting plywood. Many of the values (marked with ''fx'') are calculated automatically and don't need adjusting.

Tweak these values as you gain experience:

* '''Spindle Speed (Drehzahl):''' 16,000 RPM
* '''Cutting Feedrate (Schnittvorschub):''' 1000 mm/min
* '''Ramp Feedrate (Helixvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Plunge Feedrate (Eintauchvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Coolant:''' ''DISABLE'' (To prevent errors, the WorkBee doesn’t have a coolant system)
'''Tab 6: Post Processor'''

leave as is.

Sanity check all data once over and click "accept" to confirm.

=== Configure Setup ===
[[File:Image.png|thumb]]

Create by selecting "Setup > New Setup"

'''Tab 1: Setup'''

* Machine:
** Select the [[WorkBee#Import Workbee CNC|latest]] machine definition
* Workpiece Coordinate System
** Origin: Stock Box Point
** Select Front-Left-Top corner

'''Tab 2: Stock'''

* Mode: Relative size box
** Stock side offset: 5 mm
** Stock top offset: 0 mm
** Stock bottom offset: 0 mm

'''Tab 3: Part Position'''

leave as is

'''Tab 4: Post Process'''

Optional: adjust program name.

leave as is.<span id="set-up-2d-contour-operation"></span>
=== Set up 2D contour operation ===
At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "2D > 2D Contour" to create a new 2D contour milling operation.
[[File:Workbee-tutorial-2d-contour.png|right|275x275px]]

'''Tab 1: Tool'''

* Select the appropriate Tool
* Ensure the cut parameters are sane and have been properly inherited from the tool

'''Tab 2: Geometry'''

* Select the 2D contour you want to machine (the bottom edge of your design)
* Enable tabs
** '''Tab Shape:''' Triangle
** Tab dimensions example:
*** 6 mm width
*** 4 mm height
*** 30 mm Distance

'''Tab 3: Heights''' - leave as is

'''Tab 4: Passes'''

* Sideways Compensation: Right (Rechtsfräsen)
* '''OPTIONAL: Preserve order''' Check this box if you have nested features (cutouts within cutouts) to maintain the cutting order
* '''OPTIONAL: Smoothing Filter''' Enable for smaller file sizes

'''Tab 5: Multi-Axis'''

* leave as is

'''Tab 6: Linking'''

* '''Lead-In:''' Deactivate
* '''Lead-Out:''' Deactivate
* '''Ramp:''' Enable
** '''Maximum Ramp Stepdown:''' Start with 3-6 mm and adjust based on endmill strength, desired cut quality, and material thickness

'''Confirm the Operation with OK. Fusion 360 will now display a preview of the operation.'''

<span id="simulate-to-check-export"></span>
=== Simulate to check & Export ===
[[File:Workbee-tutorial-export.png|thumb|276x276px|post processor menu]]
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, use the “Actions > Simulate” tool to check you haven’t missed anything
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, use "Actions > Post Process"
* Check Use Machine Configuration (“Maschinenkonfiguration verwenden”)
** Select Machine: “Comakingspace CNC”
** Check Post-Processor: “WorkBee CoMakingSpace RRF”
* Export

You now have a G-Code file to upload to the CNC via its web interface!

WorkBee Machine Operation

2024-09-22T11:47:10Z

Leo: Workbee Docs: splitting things up

== Operating the WorkBee CNC ==

This Page explains how operate the [[Workbee CNC]] to create parts.<span id="general-machine-operation"></span>

== General Machine Operation ==

Interfacing with the WorkBee CNC has changed significantly after the 2024 rebuild.
[[File:Workbee-overview-labeled.png|alt=a labeled overview of the work area|center|thumb|763x763px]]
'''The machine:'''

To start the Machine, the Electronics Panel on the left have a power strip (Mehrfachstecker) with a toggle switch. This is the main on/off switch.

After starting, ensure both E-Stops are not pressed. The machine will start up, and you can open the Web Interface on the Tablet, PC or any other device.<span id="web-interface"></span>

=== Web Interface ===

The WorkBee CNC is controlled via a Web Interface accessible through the CoMakingSpace network. On any connected device, visit [http://comakingcnc/ http://comakingcnc/] or [http://10.2.0.3 http://10.2.0.3] to control the machine and upload jobs.

To start milling, you begin by inserting an endmill, homing the machine, and jogging the machine XY over your workpiece origin (usually the left-front corner). Then, slowly lower down until the tip of the endmill touches the workpiece. This is your workpiece zero point. Save this point by clicking on ''Set Work XYZ''. All this is done through ''Machine Movement'' on the Dashboard of the Web Interface:

<div class="figure">

[[File:workbee-webinterface-jog.png|520|645x645px]]

</div>
Then, upload your job to the machine, either on the top right of the Web Interface or through the ''Jobs'' tab.

=== Starting a job ===

When starting a milling job, make sure the workpiece is secured well and you are wearing proper PPE. Next, start your job via the Web Interface. The machine will home. Then, after homing, you can start the spindle with the button on the front panel interface. This button will not work before homing or if no job is running to ensure someone is present at the start of any operation.

Sit back, relax, and keep an eye out in case you need to use the E-Stop - the machine will now start making your parts.

WorkBee organization

2024-09-22T11:43:34Z

Leo: wording and formatting adjustments

== Organization around the WorkBee CNC ==

Around the [[Workbee CNC]], there are plenty of ways to keep all tooling organized. Use all of it! The things here (such as endmills) are for public use, so leave your surplus and use what is useful to you!

As with all other tools, please leave the CNC more organized than you found it. For example, the collet wrench should always return to its intended place:

<div class="figure">[[File:Workbee-wrench.png|alt=400|center|412x412px|border]]

</div>
=== Gridfinity ===

In front of the machine, at the table, there are [https://gridfinity.xyz/ Gridfinity] baseplates:

<div class="figure">

[[File:workbee-gridfinity.png|400|423x423px]]

</div>
'''Gridfinity''' is a 3D Printed organization system based on a 42mm grid. The bins in front of the machine are meant to be freely used, labeled and expanded upon. You can find additional bins to 3D Print on sites like [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse], [https://www.printables.com/ Printables] and [https://thangs.com/?sort=trending Thangs]. For example, if we add more collets in the future, re-print the [https://www.printables.com/model/989475-gridfinity-dewalt-collet-holder collet holder].
=== Pegboard ===

On the wall left of the machine, there is a pegboard system for storing the larger items such as dust shoes. It is a '''Küpper''', also known as “Euro” style pegboard based on a 15 mm grid of 4.5 mm holes. Just as with Gridfinity above, the usual sites offer various ready-made 3D models of hooks and holders to print yourself, and there’s always the option to just buy more hooks from Küpper at [https://www.bauhaus.info/werkzeugwaende/kuepper-lochwandhaken-set-72000/p/11142266 Bauhaus] or [https://www.amazon.de/s?k=k%C3%BCpper+lochwand Amazon].

<br clear=all>

WorkBee organization

2024-09-22T11:40:22Z

Leo: Workbee Docs: splitting things up

<span id="organization-around-the-machine"></span>
== Organization around the WorkBee CNC ==

Around the machine, there are plenty of ways to keep all tooling organized. These are for '''public''' things. Anything here is free to use for anyone, so leave your leftovers and take what you can use!

As with all other tools, please leave the CNC more organized than you found it. For example, the collet wrench should always return to its intended place:

<div class="figure">[[File:Workbee-wrench.png|alt=400|center|527x527px]]

</div>
<span id="gridfinity"></span>
=== Gridfinity ===

In front of the machine, at the table, there are [https://gridfinity.xyz/ Gridfinity] baseplates:

<div class="figure">

[[File:workbee-gridfinity.png|400|645x645px]]

</div>
'''Gridfinity''' is a 3D Printed organization system based on a 42mm grid. The bins in front of the machine are meant to be freely used, labeled and expanded upon. You can find additional bins to 3D Print on sites like [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse], [https://www.printables.com/ Printables] and [https://thangs.com/?sort=trending Thangs]. For example, if we add more collets in the future, re-print the [https://www.printables.com/model/989475-gridfinity-dewalt-collet-holder collet holder].

<span id="pegboard"></span>
=== Pegboard ===

On the wall left of the machine, there is a pegboard system for storing the larger items such as dust shoes. It is a '''Küpper''', also known as “Euro” style pegboard based on a 15 mm grid of 4.5 mm holes. Just as with Gridfinity above, the usual sites offer various ready-made 3D models of hooks and holders to print yourself, and there’s always the option to just buy more hooks from Küpper at [https://www.bauhaus.info/werkzeugwaende/kuepper-lochwandhaken-set-72000/p/11142266 Bauhaus] or [https://www.amazon.de/s?k=k%C3%BCpper+lochwand Amazon].

<br clear=all>

WorkBee

2024-09-22T11:35:16Z

Leo: made everything far more verbose and idiot proof

== WorkBee ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Ooznest WorkBee CNC
|german=CNC-Plattenfräse|image=Ooznest_WorkBee_CNC.JPG
|synonyms=DE: CNC-Fräse, CNC-Plattenfräse, Portalfräsmaschine
|type=CNC Router
|material=[[wood]]
|location=[[Location::CNC Area|CNC area]]
|status='''[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/307 broken]'''
|firmware=[[grbl]]
|assetid=3|software=[[LaserWeb]], [[Fusion360]], see [[G-Code Sender]]
|manual=[http://ooznest.co.uk/WorkBee-CNC-Full-Kit product page], click "documentation" tab
|used with=6 mm, 8 mm, 1/4" or 1/8" [[End Mills|end mills]];<br>''some'' kinds of [[Router Bits|router bits]]
|similar=[[router]], [[CNC Mill|CNC mill]]
}}
'''Currently defective due to a buggy/broken controller board! See [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/307 Issue #307]'''

We have a 1500mm x 1500mm version of the [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538752 WorkBee] [[CNC Router|CNC router]], which is based on the Openbuilds OX. It can currently cut sheet material of up to 50 mm thickness on a work area of approximately 1250{{x}}1250 mm. The surfaced ''(plangefräste)'' [[#Spoilboard|spoilboard]] area is 1260{{x}}1160 (x{{x}}y) mm.

Our plans for further improving it up can be found in [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/projects/1 our "WorkBee CNC" github project] - maybe you would like to help.

=== Fusion 360 Setup ===
To use the router in Fusion 360, make sure you add the latest machine definition and post-processor to Fusion 360.

You can find the newest version of these required files [https://github.com/comakingspace/WorkBee/tree/master here]. Feel free to submit improvements.

=== Router ===

The router mounted to it is a Dewalt D26200 (GB; known outside Europe as [https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/DWP611 DWP611]). You need to consider the sizes of its collets (''Spannzangen'') when buying your router bits.

* no-load speed: 16000 - 27000 rpm
* max cutter diameter: 30 mm
* available collet diameters:
** 8 mm
** 6 mm
** 1/4 inch (6.35 mm)
** 1/8 inch (3.175 mm)

The collets of the DW613, DW620 and DW621 also fit the router and are easier to get in Germany than the original ones.
{| class="wikitable"
|+RPM Chart
!Dial Setting
!Approx. RPM
|-
|1
|16000
|-
|2
|18200
|-
|3
|20400
|-
|4
|22600
|-
|5
|24800
|-
|6
|27000
|}

=== Spoilboard ===

Ooznest recommends a 6mm spoiler board, our first one is 20mm thick. It is mounted to the frame using 4 drop-in [[T-Slot Nuts|T-slot nuts]]. Cutting into the boards will make it uneven, from time to time it is neccessary to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xav1uvCN6yY surface the spoiler board] again.

The total size of the spoilboard is currently 1445{{x}}1370 mm.

When there is time, we would like to [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/51 drill workholding holes into the spoilboard].

=== Electrics ===
The Machine received a full electrical overhaul in the first half of 2024, here are its current electrical specifications:

* Duet 3 6HC+ Mainboard running RepRapFirmware
* Web- and touch interface
* MT-2303HS280AW 2.8A NEMA23 Stepper Motors
* Dewalt D26200 Router

=== Dust Extraction ===
The Workbee Vacuum automatically turns on with the spindle. We have added a cyclone dust separator before the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] so the bulk of the chips should be collected in an easily emptied box rather than the shop vac's bag.

The part that attaches the dust extraction hose to the router is called a "dust shoe". We are currently using [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/tree/master/3DPrintingFiles/WorkbeeCNC this one] designed by [[Patrick]]. The next version should ideally fit the dust extraction hose without an adapter and include a kind of transparent, flexible "skirt" to optimize the airflow.

Other interesting designs:
* https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802301

=== Workflow ===
'''This is just an overview and does NOT replace the [[CNC Router Introduction|personal introduction]]!'''

# create the tool paths in a suitable CAM software (e.g. [[Fusion 360]])
# [[CNC Router Workholding|secure your workpiece]] on the machine's bed
# insert the appropriate collet & bit as defined in your tool paths
# home the machine, jog to your workpiece origin and zero your work coordinates
# Upload your generated G-Code
# put on [[PPE|personal protection]]
# Run your Program
# Once the Machine has homed, turn on the spindle & vac on the control panel (only works after homing)
# Be ready to hit the Emergency Stop in case SHTF. Your Program is running!<span id="workbee-cnc-wiki-docs"></span>
== Using the WorkBee CNC ==

This Section explains how to use the Machine to create parts.<span id="general-machine-operation"></span>
== General Machine Operation ==

Interfacing with the WorkBee CNC has changed significantly after the 2024 rebuild. This section will explain its operation.
[[File:Workbee-overview-labeled.png|alt=a labeled overview of the work area|center|thumb|763x763px]]
'''The machine:'''

To start the Machine, the Electronics Panel on the left have a power strip (Mehrfachstecker) with a toggle switch. This is the main on/off switch.

After starting, ensure both E-Stops are not pressed. The machine will start up, and you can open the Web Interface on the Tablet, PC or any other device.<span id="web-interface"></span>
=== Web Interface ===

The WorkBee CNC is controlled via a Web Interface accessible through the CoMakingSpace network. On any connected device, visit [http://comakingcnc/ http://comakingcnc/] or [http://10.2.0.3 http://10.2.0.3] to control the machine and upload jobs.

To start milling, you begin by inserting an endmill, homing the machine, and jogging the machine XY over your workpiece origin (usually the left-front corner). Then, slowly lower down until the tip of the endmill touches the workpiece. This is your workpiece zero point. Save this point by clicking on ''Set Work XYZ''. All this is done through ''Machine Movement'' on the Dashboard of the Web Interface:

<div class="figure">

[[File:workbee-webinterface-jog.png|520|645x645px]]

</div>
Then, upload your job to the machine, either on the top right of the Web Interface or through the ''Jobs'' tab.

=== Starting a job ===

When starting a milling job, make sure the workpiece is secured well and you are wearing proper PPE. Next, start your job via the Web Interface. The machine will home. Then, after homing, you can start the spindle with the button on the front panel interface. This button will not work before homing or if no job is running to ensure someone is present at the start of any operation.

Sit back, relax, and keep an eye out in case you need to use the E-Stop - the machine will now start making your parts.

<span id="fusion-360-process-for-contour-machining"></span>
== Fusion 360 Process for Contour Machining ==

The following section will walk you through setting up a contour milling operation in Fusion 360 for the WorkBee CNC. You will start with a New Fusion 360 Document and end up with a G-Code file ready to upload to the machine.

For further information and the explanation for each step, consult the [https://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=GUID75B6821B-DE26-4E3B-AF10-4A54131CD9E4 Fusion 360 Documentation]<span id="prepare"></span>
=== Prepare ===

To get started, you will need to create the 2D geometry you’d like to mill out. For testing, a simple square with about 50 mm side length is a good starting point. Extrude it by the material thickness you plan to machine.

Then, in the top left corner of Fusion 360, switch from the “Design” workspace to the “'''Manufacture'''” workspace. This is where you’ll define your toolpaths and machine settings.

==== Import Workbee CNC ====
'''Before you get started, make sure you have properly imported the [https://github.com/comakingspace/WorkBee/tree/master latest version] of the machine definition and postprocessor into Fusion 360.'''

Check the last updated date on the GitHub page above. If you haven't imported the latest definitions since then, you'll need to add them.

At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "Manage > Machine Library". Then under "My Machines > Local" you can ''import'' (NOT CREATE) the machine definition.

'''ALSO SEPARATELY IMPORT THE LATEST POST PROCESSOR!''' Under the machine entry in your machine library, the "Post:" section, you can click the folder icon to import the latest post processor from the GitHub page.
[[File:F360-machine-import.png|center|thumb|385x385px|The import process]]
<span id="create-your-milling-tool"></span>

==== Create your Milling Tool ====
At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "Manage > Tool Library" to open the tool library. Navigate to "Local > Library". This is where you'll save all of your endmill data.

Click on "['''+''']" to add a new tool. Select the appropriate geometry, most likely "Flat End Mill".

'''Tab 1: General'''

Here you can name your endmill. Describe them well, you'll mix them up otherwise. Also enter sourcing information (such as aliexpress links) here, you'll thank yourself later.

'''Tab 2: Cutter'''

Take Measurements of your tool for dimensions using calipers (Messschieber) and populate the values accordingly.

Adjust number of flutes and the geometry to match your endmill. I recommend setting "length below holder", "shoulder length" and "flute length" to the same value, that being the length of fully formed cutting flutes of your endmill.

'''Tab 3: Shaft'''

leave as is

'''Tab 4: Holder'''

leave as is

'''Tab 5: Cutting Data'''
[[File:F360-tool-cutting-data.png|thumb|375x375px|Cutting Data Tab]]

The following cutting data is a recommended starting point for a 1/8” (3.175mm) 2-flute flat nose endmill cutting plywood. Many of the values (marked with ''fx'') are calculated automatically and don't need adjusting.

Tweak these values as you gain experience:

* '''Spindle Speed (Drehzahl):''' 16,000 RPM
* '''Cutting Feedrate (Schnittvorschub):''' 1000 mm/min
* '''Ramp Feedrate (Helixvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Plunge Feedrate (Eintauchvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Coolant:''' ''DISABLE'' (To prevent errors, the WorkBee doesn’t have a coolant system)
'''Tab 6: Post Processor'''

leave as is.

Sanity check all data once over and click "accept" to confirm.

=== Configure Setup ===
[[File:Image.png|thumb]]

Create by selecting "Setup > New Setup"

'''Tab 1: Setup'''

* Machine:
** Select the [[WorkBee#Import Workbee CNC|latest]] machine definition
* Workpiece Coordinate System
** Origin: Stock Box Point
** Select Front-Left-Top corner

'''Tab 2: Stock'''

* Mode: Relative size box
** Stock side offset: 5 mm
** Stock top offset: 0 mm
** Stock bottom offset: 0 mm

'''Tab 3: Part Position'''

leave as is

'''Tab 4: Post Process'''

Optional: adjust program name.

leave as is.<span id="set-up-2d-contour-operation"></span>
=== Set up 2D contour operation ===
At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, select "2D > 2D Contour" to create a new 2D contour milling operation.
[[File:Workbee-tutorial-2d-contour.png|right|275x275px]]

'''Tab 1: Tool'''

* Select the appropriate Tool
* Ensure the cut parameters are sane and have been properly inherited from the tool

'''Tab 2: Geometry'''

* Select the 2D contour you want to machine (the bottom edge of your design)
* Enable tabs
** '''Tab Shape:''' Triangle
** Tab dimensions example:
*** 6 mm width
*** 4 mm height
*** 30 mm Distance

'''Tab 3: Heights''' - leave as is

'''Tab 4: Passes'''

* Sideways Compensation: Right (Rechtsfräsen)
* '''OPTIONAL: Preserve order''' Check this box if you have nested features (cutouts within cutouts) to maintain the cutting order
* '''OPTIONAL: Smoothing Filter''' Enable for smaller file sizes

'''Tab 5: Multi-Axis'''

* leave as is

'''Tab 6: Linking'''

* '''Lead-In:''' Deactivate
* '''Lead-Out:''' Deactivate
* '''Ramp:''' Enable
** '''Maximum Ramp Stepdown:''' Start with 3-6 mm and adjust based on endmill strength, desired cut quality, and material thickness

'''Confirm the Operation with OK. Fusion 360 will now display a preview of the operation.'''

<span id="simulate-to-check-export"></span>
=== Simulate to check & Export ===
[[File:Workbee-tutorial-export.png|thumb|276x276px|post processor menu]]
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, use the “Actions > Simulate” tool to check you haven’t missed anything
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, use "Actions > Post Process"
* Check Use Machine Configuration (“Maschinenkonfiguration verwenden”)
** Select Machine: “Comakingspace CNC”
** Check Post-Processor: “WorkBee CoMakingSpace RRF”
* Export

You now have a G-Code file to upload to the CNC via its web interface!

<span id="organization-around-the-machine"></span>
== Organization around the Machine ==

Around the machine, there are plenty of ways to keep all tooling organized. These are for '''public''' things. Anything here is free to use for anyone, so leave your leftovers and take what you can use!

As with all other tools, please leave the CNC more organized than you found it. For example, the collet wrench should always return to its intended place:

<div class="figure">[[File:Workbee-wrench.png|alt=400|center|527x527px]]

</div>
<span id="gridfinity"></span>
=== Gridfinity ===

In front of the machine, at the table, there are [https://gridfinity.xyz/ Gridfinity] baseplates:

<div class="figure">

[[File:workbee-gridfinity.png|400|645x645px]]

</div>
'''Gridfinity''' is a 3D Printed organization system based on a 42mm grid. The bins in front of the machine are meant to be freely used, labeled and expanded upon. You can find additional bins to 3D Print on sites like [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse], [https://www.printables.com/ Printables] and [https://thangs.com/?sort=trending Thangs]. For example, if we add more collets in the future, re-print the [https://www.printables.com/model/989475-gridfinity-dewalt-collet-holder collet holder].

<span id="pegboard"></span>
=== Pegboard ===

On the wall left of the machine, there is a pegboard system for storing the larger items such as dust shoes. It is a '''Küpper''', also known as “Euro” style pegboard based on a 15 mm grid of 4.5 mm holes. Just as with Gridfinity above, the usual sites offer various ready-made 3D models of hooks and holders to print yourself, and there’s always the option to just buy more hooks from Küpper at [https://www.bauhaus.info/werkzeugwaende/kuepper-lochwandhaken-set-72000/p/11142266 Bauhaus] or [https://www.amazon.de/s?k=k%C3%BCpper+lochwand Amazon].

<br clear=all>

File:F360-tool-cutting-data.png

2024-09-22T11:26:09Z

Leo:

the cutting data tab of f360 tool library tool

File:Image.png

2024-09-22T11:12:16Z

Leo:

f360 cam setup menu

File:F360-machine-import.png

2024-09-22T11:00:21Z

Leo: Leo uploaded a new version of File:F360-machine-import.png

A screenshot of the Fusion 360 Machine library

File:F360-machine-import.png

2024-09-22T10:56:04Z

Leo:

A screenshot of the Fusion 360 Machine library

File:Workbee-gridfinity.png

2024-09-10T20:49:38Z

Leo:

== Licensing ==
{{PD}}

File:Workbee-overview-labeled.png

2024-09-10T20:49:15Z

Leo: Leo uploaded a new version of File:Workbee-overview-labeled.png

== Licensing ==
{{PD}}

WorkBee

2024-09-10T20:47:55Z

Leo: added process documentation (tutorial)

== WorkBee ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Ooznest WorkBee CNC
|german=CNC-Plattenfräse|image=Ooznest_WorkBee_CNC.JPG
|synonyms=DE: CNC-Fräse, CNC-Plattenfräse, Portalfräsmaschine
|type=CNC Router
|material=[[wood]]
|location=[[Location::CNC Area|CNC area]]
|status='''[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/307 broken]'''
|firmware=[[grbl]]
|assetid=3|software=[[LaserWeb]], [[Fusion360]], see [[G-Code Sender]]
|manual=[http://ooznest.co.uk/WorkBee-CNC-Full-Kit product page], click "documentation" tab
|used with=6 mm, 8 mm, 1/4" or 1/8" [[End Mills|end mills]];<br>''some'' kinds of [[Router Bits|router bits]]
|similar=[[router]], [[CNC Mill|CNC mill]]
}}
'''Currently defective due to a buggy/broken controller board! See [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/307 Issue #307]'''

We have a 1500mm x 1500mm version of the [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538752 WorkBee] [[CNC Router|CNC router]], which is based on the Openbuilds OX. It can currently cut sheet material of up to 50 mm thickness on a work area of approximately 1250{{x}}1250 mm. The surfaced ''(plangefräste)'' [[#Spoilboard|spoilboard]] area is 1260{{x}}1160 (x{{x}}y) mm.

Our plans for further improving it up can be found in [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/projects/1 our "WorkBee CNC" github project] - maybe you would like to help.

=== Fusion 360 Setup ===
To use the router in Fusion 360, make sure you add the latest machine definition and post-processor to Fusion 360.

You can find the newest version of these required files [https://github.com/comakingspace/WorkBee/tree/master here]. Feel free to submit improvements.

=== Router ===

The router mounted to it is a Dewalt D26200 (GB; known outside Europe as [https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/DWP611 DWP611]). You need to consider the sizes of its collets (''Spannzangen'') when buying your router bits.

* no-load speed: 16000 - 27000 rpm
* max cutter diameter: 30 mm
* available collet diameters:
** 8 mm
** 6 mm
** 1/4 inch (6.35 mm)
** 1/8 inch (3.175 mm)

The collets of the DW613, DW620 and DW621 also fit the router and are easier to get in Germany than the original ones.
{| class="wikitable"
|+RPM Chart
!Dial Setting
!Approx. RPM
|-
|1
|16000
|-
|2
|18200
|-
|3
|20400
|-
|4
|22600
|-
|5
|24800
|-
|6
|27000
|}

=== Spoilboard ===

Ooznest recommends a 6mm spoiler board, our first one is 20mm thick. It is mounted to the frame using 4 drop-in [[T-Slot Nuts|T-slot nuts]]. Cutting into the boards will make it uneven, from time to time it is neccessary to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xav1uvCN6yY surface the spoiler board] again.

The total size of the spoilboard is currently 1445{{x}}1370 mm.

When there is time, we would like to [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/51 drill workholding holes into the spoilboard].

=== Electrics ===
The Machine received a full electrical overhaul in the first half of 2024, here are its current electrical specifications:

* Duet 3 6HC+ Mainboard running RepRapFirmware
* Web- and touch interface
* MT-2303HS280AW 2.8A NEMA23 Stepper Motors
* Dewalt D26200 Router

=== Dust Extraction ===
The Workbee Vacuum automatically turns on with the spindle. We have added a cyclone dust separator before the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] so the bulk of the chips should be collected in an easily emptied box rather than the shop vac's bag.

The part that attaches the dust extraction hose to the router is called a "dust shoe". We are currently using [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/tree/master/3DPrintingFiles/WorkbeeCNC this one] designed by [[Patrick]]. The next version should ideally fit the dust extraction hose without an adapter and include a kind of transparent, flexible "skirt" to optimize the airflow.

Other interesting designs:
* https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802301

=== Workflow ===
'''This is just an overview and does NOT replace the [[CNC Router Introduction|personal introduction]]!'''

# create the tool paths in a suitable CAM software (e.g. [[Fusion 360]])
# [[CNC Router Workholding|secure your workpiece]] on the machine's bed
# insert the appropriate collet & bit as defined in your tool paths
# home the machine, jog to your workpiece origin and zero your work coordinates
# Upload your generated G-Code
# put on [[PPE|personal protection]]
# Run your Program
# Once the Machine has homed, turn on the spindle & vac on the control panel (only works after homing)
# Be ready to hit the Emergency Stop in case SHTF. Your Program is running!

<span id="workbee-cnc-wiki-docs"></span>
== Using the WorkBee CNC ==

This Section explains how to use the Machine to create parts.

<span id="general-machine-operation"></span>
== General Machine Operation ==

Interfacing with the WorkBee CNC has changed significantly after the 2024 rebuild. This section will explain its operation.

'''The machine:''' [[File:workbee-overview-labeled.png|480]]

To start the Machine, the Electronics Panel on the left have a power strip (Mehrfachstecker) with a toggle switch. This is the main on/off switch.

After starting, ensure both E-Stops are not pressed. The machine will start up, and you can open the Web Interface on the Tablet, PC or any other device.

<span id="web-interface"></span>
=== Web Interface ===

The WorkBee CNC is controlled via a Web Interface accessible through the CoMakingSpace network. On any connected device, visit <code>http://comakingcnc.fritz.box/</code> ([http://comakingcnc.fritz.box/ link]) or <code>10.2.0.3</code> to control the machine and upload jobs.

To start milling, you begin by inserting an endmill, homing the machine, and jogging the machine XY over your workpiece origin (usually the left-front corner). Then, slowly lower down until the tip of the endmill touches the workpiece. This is your workpiece zero point. Save this point by clicking on ''Set Work XYZ''. All this is done through ''Machine Movement'' on the Dashboard of the Web Interface:

<div class="figure">

[[File:workbee-webinterface-jog.png|520]]

</div>
Then, upload your job to the machine, either on the top right of the Web Interface or through the ''Jobs'' tab.

<span id="starting-a-job"></span>
=== Starting a job ===

When starting a milling job, make sure the workpiece is secured well and you are wearing proper PPE. Next, start your job via the Web Interface. The machine will home. Then, after homing, you can start the spindle with the button on the front panel interface. This button will not work before homing or if no job is running to ensure someone is present at the start of any operation.

Sit back, relax, and keep an eye out in case you need to use the E-Stop - the machine will now start making your parts.

<span id="fusion-360-process-for-contour-machining"></span>
== Fusion 360 Process for Contour Machining ==

The following section will walk you through setting up a contour milling operation in Fusion 360 for the WorkBee CNC. You will start with a New Fusion 360 Document and end up with a G-Code file ready to upload to the machine.

For further information and the explanation for each step, consult the [https://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=GUID75B6821B-DE26-4E3B-AF10-4A54131CD9E4 Fusion 360 Documentation].

'''Before you get started, make sure you have properly imported the [https://github.com/comakingspace/WorkBee/tree/master latest version] of the machine definition and postprocessor into Fusion 360.'''

<span id="prepare"></span>
=== Prepare ===

To get started, you will need to create the 2D geometry you’d like to mill out. For testing, a simple hexagon is a good starting point. Extrude it by the material thickness you plan to machine.

Then, in the top left corner of Fusion 360, switch from the “Design” workspace to the “'''Manufacture'''” workspace. This is where you’ll define your toolpaths and machine settings.

<span id="create-your-milling-tool"></span>
=== Create your Milling Tool ===

Take Measurements of your tool for dimensions using a caliper (Messschieber) and populate the values accordingly.

The following cutting data is a recommended starting point for a 1/8” (3.175mm) 2-flute flat nose endmill cutting plywood. Tweak these values as you gain experience:

* '''Spindle Speed (Drehzahl):''' 16,000 RPM
* '''Cutting Feedrate (Schnittvorschub):''' 1000 mm/min
* '''Helix Feedrate (Helixvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Plunge Feedrate (Eintauchvorschub):''' 500 mm/min
* '''Coolant:''' DISABLE (To prevent errors, the WorkBee doesn’t have a coolant system)

Now create a new 2D Contour operation by clicking 2D > 2D Contour.

[[File:workbee-tutorial-2d-contour.png]]

<span id="set-up-your-workpiece"></span>
=== Set up your Workpiece ===

* Stock Box:
** Set to '''Relative'''
** 5 mm offset
* Set Work Coordinate System
** '''Stock Box Position:''' Select the Front-Left-Top Corner

<span id="set-up-2d-contour-operation"></span>
=== Set up 2D contour operation ===

'''Tab 1: Tool''' - Select the appropriate Tool - Ensure the cut parameters are sane and have been properly inherited from the tool

'''Tab 2: Geometry''' - Select the 2D contour you want to machine (the bottom edge of your design). - Enable tabs - '''Tab Shape:''' Triangle - Tab dimensions example: - 6 mm width - 3 mm height - 30 mm Distance

'''Tab 3: Heights''' - leave as is

'''Tab 4: Passes''' - Sideways Compensation: Right (Rechtsfräsen) - '''OPTIONAL: Preserve order''' Check this box if you have nested features (cutouts within cutouts) to maintain the cutting order. - '''OPTIONAL: Smoothing Filter''' Enable for smaller file sizes

'''Tab 5: Multi-Axis''' - leave as is

Tab 6: Linking - '''Lead-In:''' Deactivate - '''Lead-Out:''' Deactivate - '''Ramp:''' Enable - '''Maximum Ramp Stepdown:''' Start with 3-6 mm and adjust based on endmill strength, desired cut quality, and material thickness

'''Confirm the Operation with OK. Fusion 360 will now display a preview of the operation.'''

<span id="simulate-to-check-export"></span>
=== Simulate to check & Export ===

<div class="figure">

[[File:workbee-tutorial-export.png|420]]

</div>
* Use the “Simulate” tool to check you haven’t missed anything
* At the top of the Fusion 360 Interface, click Post-Process
* Check Use Machine Configuration (“Maschinenkonfiguration verwenden”)
** Select Machine: “Comakingspace CNC”
** Check Post-Processor: “WorkBee CoMakingSpace RRF”
* Export

You now have a G-Code file to upload to the CNC via its web interface!

<span id="organization-around-the-machine"></span>
== Organization around the Machine ==

Around the machine, there are plenty of ways to keep all tooling organized. These are for '''public''' things. Anything here is free to use for anyone, so leave your leftovers and take what you can use!

As with all other tools, please leave the CNC more organized than you found it. For example, the collet wrench should always return to its intended place:

<div class="figure">

[[File:workbee-wrench.png|400]]

</div>
<span id="gridfinity"></span>
=== Gridfinity ===

In front of the machine, at the table, there are [https://gridfinity.xyz/ Gridfinity] baseplates:

<div class="figure">

[[File:workbee-gridfinity.png|400]]

</div>
'''Gridfinity''' is a 3D Printed organization system based on a 42mm grid. The bins in front of the machine are meant to be freely used, labeled and expanded upon. You can find additional bins to 3D Print on sites like [https://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse], [https://www.printables.com/ Printables] and [https://thangs.com/?sort=trending Thangs]. For example, if we add more collets in the future, re-print the [https://www.printables.com/model/989475-gridfinity-dewalt-collet-holder collet holder].

<span id="pegboard"></span>
=== Pegboard ===

On the wall left of the machine, there is a pegboard system for storing the larger items such as dust shoes. It is a '''Küpper''', also known as “Euro” style pegboard based on a 15 mm grid of 4.5 mm holes. Just as with Gridfinity above, the usual sites offer various ready-made 3D models of hooks and holders to print yourself, and there’s always the option to just buy more hooks from Küpper at [https://www.bauhaus.info/werkzeugwaende/kuepper-lochwandhaken-set-72000/p/11142266 Bauhaus] or [https://www.amazon.de/s?k=k%C3%BCpper+lochwand Amazon].

<br clear=all>

File:Workbee-wrench.png

2024-09-10T20:40:09Z

Leo:

== Licensing ==
{{PD}}

File:Workbee-webinterface-jog.png

2024-09-10T20:39:58Z

Leo:

File:Workbee-tutorial-export.png

2024-09-10T20:39:47Z

Leo:

== Licensing ==
{{PD}}

File:Workbee-tutorial-2d-contour.png

2024-09-10T20:39:31Z

Leo:

== Licensing ==
{{PD}}

File:Workbee-overview-labeled.png

2024-09-10T20:38:41Z

Leo:

== Licensing ==
{{PD}}

CNC Router Introduction

2024-08-28T21:50:48Z

Leo: Updating for post-rebuild processes

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::CNC Router|CNC router]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutor(s): [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]]

Before you get this introduction, make sure you have the [[Handheld Router Introduction]], this will help you understand the machine much better and is required before using it.

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual, if available (check its "InfoBox" in the wiki for instructions how to find it).
== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| sharp, fast spinning bits ([[End Mills|end mills]] or - rarely - certain [[Router Bits|router bits]]) ||
* stay clear of the CNC router when in operation
* unplug the router when changing a bit or touching the chuck for any other reason
* insert your mill as far as you can afford for maximum strength
|-
| strong forces acting on the workpiece that might make it move || secure your workpiece properly - see [[CNC Router Workholding|CNC router workholding]]
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_hand injury.svg|left|50px]] the machine has no live sensors and will execute its code regardless of what gets into its way
* heat generated during improper use can even [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tpxgZUYGSI set the machine on fire] [[File:danger - fire.svg|50px]]
||
* home the machine (set its absolute maximum positions) before executing '''any''' movements
* reference the machine to the workpiece (relative maximum/starting positions) before starting the router
* monitor the CNC router closely when in operation
* keep an eye on the cables that come from above - are they securely out of the machine's paths?
|-
| hitting "pause" or "stop" in a control program will still let at least the current line be executed || push the emergency shutdown button if '''anything''' goes wrong
|-
| lots of dust that could harm your health or settle down on machine parts, possibly hindering movements || use the shop vac (with cyclone separator for collecting waste and [[Dust Shoe|dust shoe]] to connect to the router) as well as the room's air extraction (for fine dust)
* when using the room air extraction, make sure the vent next to the door is open so replacement air can flow in
|}

== Suggested Reading ==
Besides these safety notes, you should read about the different [[End Mills|end mills]] (and [[Router Bits|router bits]], if you want to try those) to know what you're doing! '''Different materials usually require different mills, and the [[feedrate]] depends on the mill as well as the type of material.'''

* our list of [[Milling Experiences|milling experiences]] - please also share what you find out!
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/top-8-milling-tools-new-cnc-machinists/ top milling tools for new CNC machinists]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/cnc-programming-fundamentals-g-code/ G-Code fundamentals]

== Recommended Watching ==
* [[CAM]], virtual setup: [https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GuEV1D0Obac how to prepare your model and place it in a virtual workpiece in Fusion 360 ''(DE)'']
* machine setup: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQPUg0IgrrE how to set up a job on the WorkBee CNC]

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
# at the machine
#* selecting the right bit
#* inserting a bit
#* homing the machine (setting absolute "0" positions)
#* setting the relative "0" position on your workpiece
#** paper trick: go down until a piece of paper is ''just'' held in place by the mill's tip
#* connecting, starting a job, and turning on the spindle
# on a computer
#* importing the [https://github.com/comakingspace/WorkBee/blob/master/Work%20Bee%20CNC.machine machine setup]
#* generating [[G-code]] from a design in [[Fusion 360]]
#* Accessing the [http://comakingcnc.fritz.box/ web interface]

You should then be able to do a small practice cut together with the tutor.

== Interfacing with the CNC Router ==

=== General ===
The Workbee CNC is running RepRapFirmware. You can access its Web Interface via the local network on http://comakingcnc.fritz.box/.
If you don't have a device handy, the tablet on the control panel can also be used.
There, you can jog the machine, upload and start jobs, manage configuration and more.
In any case, if you want to start a job with the CNC router, you have to execute these steps: <br />
# Insert your desired bit into the router
# Turn on the CNC via the power strip switch on the electronics panel
# Make sure the emergency stop is not pushed
# Access the web interface.
# Home all axis
# Use the manual controls to bring the machine to the X/Y origin of your workpiece.
# Use the manual control to bring the machine to the Z Origin of your job <br /> ATTENTION: Nothing prevents you from [https://www.instagram.com/p/BklN8j4niEL/late driving "into" the spoilboard] or your workpiece now. So make sure you move carefully and slowly!
# Set Work XYZ
# Move the router up a bit on the Z-axis
# Check the Router RPM
# Start your job
# After Homing, press the Spindle Start button
# Carefully watch your job. Use the [[Shop Vacs]] to get rid of dust during your job. <br /> If anything goes wrong, push the emergency stop!
# Once your job is done, turn off the router, home the machine and clean up.

=== On G-Code Senders ===
You used to need extra G-Code Sender software to operate the old version of the WorkBee.
That was a limitation of the GRBL Firmware. We are now running [RRF](https://www.reprapfirmware.org/) and all machine control is done through the web interface.

{{Waiting List}}

[[Category:Introductions]]

CNC Router Introduction

2024-08-28T21:47:24Z

Leo: /* Interfacing with the CNC Router */ updated instructions to follow new protocols

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::CNC Router|CNC router]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]

Before you get this introduction, please make sure you already have the [[Handheld Router Introduction]], this will help you understand the machine much better and is required before using it.

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual, if available (check its "InfoBox" in the wiki for instructions how to find it).

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| sharp, fast spinning bits ([[End Mills|end mills]] or - rarely - certain [[Router Bits|router bits]]) ||
* stay clear of the CNC router when in operation
* unplug the router when changing a bit or touching the chuck for any other reason
* insert your mill as far as you can afford for maximum strength
|-
| strong forces acting on the workpiece that might make it move || secure your workpiece properly - see [[CNC Router Workholding|CNC router workholding]]
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_hand injury.svg|left|50px]] the machine has no live sensors and will execute its code regardless of what gets into its way
* heat generated during improper use can even [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tpxgZUYGSI set the machine on fire] [[File:danger - fire.svg|50px]]
||
* home the machine (set its absolute maximum positions) before executing '''any''' movements
* reference the machine to the workpiece (relative maximum/starting positions) before starting the router
* monitor the CNC router closely when in operation
* keep an eye on the cables that come from above - are they securely out of the machine's paths?
|-
| hitting "pause" or "stop" in a control program will still let at least the current line be executed || push the emergency shutdown button if '''anything''' goes wrong
|-
| lots of dust that could harm your health or settle down on machine parts, possibly hindering movements || use the shop vac (with cyclone separator for collecting waste and [[Dust Shoe|dust shoe]] to connect to the router) as well as the room's air extraction (for fine dust)
* when using the room air extraction, make sure the vent next to the door is open so replacement air can flow in
|}

== Suggested Reading ==
Besides these safety notes, you should read about the different [[End Mills|end mills]] (and [[Router Bits|router bits]], if you want to try those) to know what you're doing! '''Different materials usually require different mills, and the [[feedrate]] depends on the mill as well as the type of material.'''

* our list of [[Milling Experiences|milling experiences]] - please also share what you find out!
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/top-8-milling-tools-new-cnc-machinists/ top milling tools for new CNC machinists]
* [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/cnc-programming-fundamentals-g-code/ G-Code fundamentals]
* [https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Interfacing-with-Grbl Interfacing with Grbl] (Please take special notice of the "Other Grbl Messages" section)
* Our list of [[G-Code Senders|G-Code senders]]

== Recommended Watching ==
* [[CAM]], virtual setup: [https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GuEV1D0Obac how to prepare your model and place it in a virtual workpiece in Fusion 360 ''(DE)'']
* machine setup: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQPUg0IgrrE how to set up a job on the WorkBee CNC]

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
# at the machine
#* selecting the right bit
#* inserting a bit
#* turning the machine on '''and off''' (easy to forget!)
#* homing the machine (setting absolute "0" positions)
#* setting the relative "0" position on your workpiece
#* connecting and turning on dust extraction
#** paper trick: go down until a piece of paper is ''just'' held in place by the mill's tip
# on a computer
#* importing the [https://github.com/comakingspace/WorkBee/blob/master/Work%20Bee%20CNC.machine machine setup]
#* generating [[G-code]] from a design in [[Fusion 360]]
#* Using [[CNCjs]] for uploading the code to the CNC router

You should then be able to do a small practice cut together with the tutor.

== Interfacing with the CNC Router ==

=== General ===
The Workbee CNC is running RepRapFirmware. You can access its Web Interface via the local network on http://comakingcnc.fritz.box/.
If you don't have a device handy, the tablet on the control panel can also be used.
There, you can jog the machine, upload and start jobs, manage configuration and more.
In any case, if you want to start a job with the CNC router, you have to execute these steps: <br />
# Insert your desired bit into the router
# Turn on the CNC via the power strip switch on the electronics panel
# Make sure the emergency stop is not pushed
# Access the web interface.
# Home all axis
# Use the manual controls to bring the machine to the X/Y origin of your workpiece.
# Use the manual control to bring the machine to the Z Origin of your job <br /> ATTENTION: Nothing prevents you from [https://www.instagram.com/p/BklN8j4niEL/late driving "into" the spoilboard] or your workpiece now. So make sure you move carefully and slowly!
# Set Work XYZ
# Move the router up a bit on the Z-axis
# Check the Router RPM
# Start your job
# After Homing, press the Spindle Start button
# Carefully watch your job. Use the [[Shop Vacs]] to get rid of dust during your job. <br /> If anything goes wrong, push the emergency stop!
# Once your job is done, turn off the router, home the machine and clean up.

=== On G-Code Senders ===
You used to need extra G-Code Sender software to operate the old version of the WorkBee.
That was a limitation of the GRBL Firmware. We are now running [RRF](https://www.reprapfirmware.org/) and all machine control is done through the web interface.

{{Waiting List}}

[[Category:Introductions]]

WorkBee

2024-08-28T21:38:18Z

Leo: Updating for post-rebuild processes

WorkBee

2024-08-06T16:10:06Z

Leo: /* Fusion Setup */

WorkBee

2024-08-06T11:48:02Z

Leo: updated electrical information

Project:Lötzian

2024-01-17T21:31:12Z

Leo: Created page with "{{ProjectInfoBox |project title="Lötzian" Solder Dispenser |image=Solderdispenser.jpg |status=Done |date=17.1.2024 |initiator=Leo |materials=Scrap wood |tools=Handsäge, Raspel }} ''How to kill 30 Minutes of waiting for someone to finish an introduction'' I had time to kill and decided to goof off *while* doing something productive. Revolutionary concept. Issue [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/297 #297] was calling out. A idea for a pun..."

{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title="Lötzian" Solder Dispenser
|image=Solderdispenser.jpg
|status=Done
|date=17.1.2024
|initiator=[[Leo]]
|materials=Scrap wood
|tools=[[Handsäge]], [[Raspel]]
}}
''How to kill 30 Minutes of waiting for someone to finish an introduction''

I had time to kill and decided to goof off *while* doing something productive. Revolutionary concept. Issue [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/297 #297] was calling out. A idea for a pun involving [[User:Luzian|someones]] name sealed the fate.

== Tutorial ==

Saw some scrap wood to pieces using a hand saw. Add some radius and grooves using a rasp for visual flair. Angle grinder some threaded rod to length, install nyloc nuts at both ends, realize the solder roll doesn't fit, remove one nyloc nut, add solder roll, add nyloc nut back, are you not bored yet? Pre-drill holes, rummage around the screw cabinet for some rusty loose screws, assemble frame.

The only somewhat interesting thing about this project is using thumb tacks as anti scratch feet as they're quick to install and cheap, and using only 3 to avoid wobble.

Time invested: 35 minutes including cleanup. +15 for Documentation.

== Images ==

[[File:Solderdispenser_assembly.jpg|400px|thumb|center|Assembly]]
[[File:Solderdispenser_wip.jpg|400px|thumb|center|Sawing and rasping]]
[[File:Solderdispenser_tacks.jpg|400px|thumb|center|Quick and easy anti-scratch feet]]

[[Category:Quick Projects]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

File:Solderdispenser assembly.jpg

2024-01-17T21:21:02Z

Leo:

== Licensing ==
{{PD}}

File:Solderdispenser.jpg

2024-01-17T21:19:45Z

Leo:

== Licensing ==
{{PD}}

File:Solderdispenser tacks.jpg

2024-01-17T21:19:16Z

Leo:

== Licensing ==
{{PD}}