CoMakingSpace Wiki - User Contributions [en]

Plenum/Meeting minutes/2022-05-11

2022-05-11T09:41:02Z

Lars: removed unnessecary community topic

==Topics==
Here's the list ''so far'' - please don't hesitate to add more! If you won't be able to attend, you can add your comments here or in the discussion to take part anyway :-)

=== TOP 1: Plenum Cycle and Role of the Plenum ===
[[File:2022 plenum frequency vote.png|alt=Results of the plenum frequency vote|thumb|Results of the plenum frequency vote]]
The Plenum frequency has been adjusted as per the last plenum's vote. The votes regarding frequency are very evenly distributed. As a result ,we will convene every second month for now.

Additionally, we added some tools to facilitate plenum discussion. The slack channel [https://coms-hd.slack.com/archives/C03FNAHNVCY #topic-plenum] is now available to post suggestions for the plenum, and to facilitate initial discussions. If you find discussions that you would like to add to the plenum topics, you can react with the new :plenum: emoji, and the topic will automatically be linked. The emoji reaction currently only works in #general, but will be extended to other channels, if successful.

Additionally, recent discussions have shown that the role of the plenum discussions need to be reiterated: This is a place to discuss current topics, find collaborators and network with others, not to form executive decisions. All decisions are taken by the management, which takes plenary discussions into account.

=== TOP 2: Food Sharing ===
We are currently being supplied with food from a food-sharing project. There will be a short introduction on how this works, and why we do it.

=== TOP 3: Repair Cafe ===
The repair café was a resounding success! You can find pictures in [https://coms-hd.slack.com/archives/C02EFEN2ZRV #topic-repair]. This was the first repair café to exceed an 80% repair rate!

=== TOP 4: Flyer Design - Call for Participation (PR team) ===
[[File:Crazy-ideas.jpg|left|thumb|167x167px]]
We did a photoshooting two weeks ago and we would like to design some new flyers and the PR team needs some ideas. Big THANK YOU goes to Steffi and Andreas for organizing this!

The themes we would like to do are two-fold: Flyers targeting needs of people and "make your idea".

Examples for the first theme are "not enough space for your workshop", "landlord doesn't allow dusty machines", "joining a maker community", etc.

The second theme is "no matter how crazy your idea - we've got the means to make them" (example to the left). We've got so many cool projects that we could use for this - our camper conversions, the cello lamp, ironman helmet, meso cabinet, etc. Feel free to add yours!

=== TOP 5: Women in Space ===
The discussion on how to make the space more accessible for women has come up again. The management agreed to start a systematic interview of women in the space to evaluate the best ways of improving the situation. This initial step will be coordinated by a team of women, and the suggestions will later be discussed publicly in the plenum.

=== TOP 6: New Bike Repair Tools ===
The new bike repair tools are ready and available for use in the Space!

==Recap of the last plenum==
[[Plenum/Meeting minutes/2022-02-02]]

==New (and newly available) tools at the space==
''=> also see "[[Wish List]]"''

Plenum/Meeting minutes/2022-05-11

2022-05-10T18:10:01Z

Lars:

==Head==
Date/Time: 2022-05-11 19:00 
Attending Managers: 
Attending Members: 

==Topics==
Here's the list ''so far'' - please don't hesitate to add more! If you won't be able to attend, you can add your comments here or in the discussion to take part anyway :-)

=== TOP 1: Arts & Crafts Area ===
Lars has started to plan an Arts & Crafts Area in the common room and would like to become the Patreon of it. This would target a whole new target audience (and possible new members) and open up the space for new workshops and events like guided art creation for beginners.

Current extensions of the sowing area include painting and -supplies for various styles, screen printing for fabric design, and soap stone work.

Martin and Lars are working on getting the funding for a stock of base supplies and the necessary equipment.

=== TOP 2: flyer design - call for participation (PR team) ===
[[File:Crazy-ideas.jpg|left|thumb|167x167px]]
We did a photoshooting two weeks ago and we would like to design some new flyers and the PR team needs some ideas.

The themes we would like to do are two-fold: Flyers targeting needs of people and "make your idea".

Examples for the first theme are "not enough space for your workshop", "landlord doesn't allow dusty machines", "joining a maker community", etc.

The second theme is "no matter how crazy your idea - we've got the means to make them" (example to the left). We've got so many cool projects that we could use for this - our camper conversions, the cello lamp, ironman helmet, meso cabinet, ... Feel free to add yours!

==Project Presentations==
Let's take up to 2{{x}}20 minutes before each plenum to show others what we're working on! If you are interested in talking about your projects, please announce it here and/or via the [[Mailing List]]:

*''<please add your idea(s)!>''
*''<please add your idea(s)!>''

==Recap of the last plenum==

==New (and newly available) tools at the space==
''=> also see "[[Wish List]]"''

==Collaboration possibilities==
Who's not in our [[Mailing List]] or [[Telegram Group]] yet? Also check out [[:Category:Community]]!

===Do-something days===

===[[Issues]]===

[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues?utf8=%E2%9C%93&q=is%3Aissue+closed%3A2022-02-02..2022-05-11 closed issues since the last plenum] 
[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues?q=is%3Aissue+created%3A2022-02-02..2022-05-11+ new issues since the last plenum]

===Wiki===
Please share your experiences with just about anything - the more people are [[Creating Wiki Content|creating wiki content]] together, the better! => have a look at [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/labels/wiki current "wiki" labeled issues] where help is especially welcome :-)

Also check out current projects that are [[:Category:Looking for Collaborators|looking for collaborators]] if you're a team player!

===Area Patron Update===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Area!!Patron!!Update!!Members Feedback
|-
|[[Electronics Bench]]||[[User:Johannes|Johannes]] & [[User:Leo|Leo]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[3D Printer Farm]]||[[User:Leo|Leo]] & [[Kim]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[Woodturning]]||[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[CNC Router]]||[[User:Johannes|Johannes]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|Kitchen||[[Kim]] & [[User:Johannes|Johannes]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[Drilling Table]] (and screw/nail stuff)||[[Keno]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[Metal Lathe]]||[[User:Luzian|Luzian]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[Sanding Corner]]||[[User:F.Huchinson|F.Huchinson]] (supported by [[User:Lmnl99|Luca]])||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[Laser Cutter]]||[[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|}

Who else would like to become an [[Area Patron]] ''(Eckpate)''?

*wood workshop, e.g.:
**saws
**hand tools
*Metal Workshop, e.g.:
**grinding
**welding
**hand tools
**Precious Plastic

==[[Seminar Ideas]]==

==Open Discussion==
This is the place to talk about general improvements etc. - for example:

*What did I do since the last plenum?
*What am I planning to do until the next plenum?
*What went wrong?
*What went well?
*What should get done at the space (new issues)?

==Next Meeting==

File:Crazy-ideas.jpg

2022-05-10T18:06:51Z

Lars:

Crazy ideas poster idea

Plenum/Meeting minutes/2022-05-11

2022-05-09T13:52:56Z

Lars: Lars used template! It was super effective!

==Head==
Date/Time: 2022-05-11 19:00 
Attending Managers: 
Attending Members: 

==Topics==
Here's the list ''so far'' - please don't hesitate to add more! If you won't be able to attend, you can add your comments here or in the discussion to take part anyway :-)

=== TOP 1: Arts & Crafts Area ===
Lars has started to plan an Arts & Crafts Area in the common room and would like to become the Patreon of it. This would target a whole new target audience (and possible new members) and open up the space for new workshops and events like guided art creation for beginners.

Current extensions of the sowing area include painting and -supplies for various styles, screen printing for fabric design, and soap stone work.

Martin and Lars are working on getting the funding for a stock of base supplies and the necessary equipment.

==Project Presentations==
Let's take up to 2{{x}}20 minutes before each plenum to show others what we're working on! If you are interested in talking about your projects, please announce it here and/or via the [[Mailing List]]:

*''<please add your idea(s)!>''
*''<please add your idea(s)!>''

==Recap of the last plenum==

==New (and newly available) tools at the space==
''=> also see "[[Wish List]]"''

==Collaboration possibilities==
Who's not in our [[Mailing List]] or [[Telegram Group]] yet? Also check out [[:Category:Community]]!

===Do-something days===

===[[Issues]]===

[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues?utf8=%E2%9C%93&q=is%3Aissue+closed%3A2022-02-02..2022-05-11 closed issues since the last plenum] 
[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues?q=is%3Aissue+created%3A2022-02-02..2022-05-11+ new issues since the last plenum]

===Wiki===
Please share your experiences with just about anything - the more people are [[Creating Wiki Content|creating wiki content]] together, the better! => have a look at [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/labels/wiki current "wiki" labeled issues] where help is especially welcome :-)

Also check out current projects that are [[:Category:Looking for Collaborators|looking for collaborators]] if you're a team player!

===Area Patron Update===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Area!!Patron!!Update!!Members Feedback
|-
|[[Electronics Bench]]||[[User:Johannes|Johannes]] & [[User:Leo|Leo]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[3D Printer Farm]]||[[User:Leo|Leo]] & [[Kim]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[Woodturning]]||[[User:Lukas|Lukas]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[CNC Router]]||[[User:Johannes|Johannes]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|Kitchen||[[Kim]] & [[User:Johannes|Johannes]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[Drilling Table]] (and screw/nail stuff)||[[Keno]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[Metal Lathe]]||[[User:Luzian|Luzian]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[Sanding Corner]]||[[User:F.Huchinson|F.Huchinson]] (supported by [[User:Lmnl99|Luca]])||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|-
|[[Laser Cutter]]||[[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]||''any update?''||''any feedback/thanks?''
|}

Who else would like to become an [[Area Patron]] ''(Eckpate)''?

*wood workshop, e.g.:
**saws
**hand tools
*Metal Workshop, e.g.:
**grinding
**welding
**hand tools
**Precious Plastic

==[[Seminar Ideas]]==

==Open Discussion==
This is the place to talk about general improvements etc. - for example:

*What did I do since the last plenum?
*What am I planning to do until the next plenum?
*What went wrong?
*What went well?
*What should get done at the space (new issues)?

==Next Meeting==

Waiting Lists

2022-01-23T19:18:00Z

Lars: /* Jointer-Planer Introduction */

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

''If you want to "wait" for a vehicle spot, see [[Vehicle Workspaces|vehicle workspaces]].''

<big>'''How to Use'''</big> 
Please '''link''' your [[Special:MyPage|user page]] at the bottom of each list you're interested in after you've filled it with enough information to contact you and/or activated "Allow other users to email me" in your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]]!

If a list is full enough and/or you have been waiting for a while, please reach out to the tool's tutors and kindly ask for a date - maybe they've just been too busy, but it could also be that they missed the list filling up and would appreciate the reminder.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]] ==

Tutors:{{#show: Prusa_i3_MK2S
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ed Green|Ed]]
* [[Nana]]

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Welding_Transformer
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: 1 h + 20 min per member (to be confirmed)

Next Date: TBD - waiting for completion of the welding corner, [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/199 everyone can help!]

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Blacksheep|Micha]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

==[[Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Bandsaw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1.5 h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
* [[User:Ploenk]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Chop_Saw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~30 min

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Sebastian|Sebastian]]
* [[User:BenKenobi|BenKenobi]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
* [[Johanna]]
* [[User:SvenG|SvenG]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: CNC_Router
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: > 1 h (to be confirmed)

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Leo|Leo]]
* [[User:Hanna|Hanna]]
* [[User:Ed_Green]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
* [[User:Lars|Lars]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]

== [[Compressor Introduction]] ==
Tutors:{{#show: Compressor
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}Time required: < 15 min - not really worth a list...

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:St3ffi|Steffi]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld_Router
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 15 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:BenKenobi|BenKenobi]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

== [[Jointer-Planer Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60 min + 20 min per member

Next Date: Sun, 2022-1-23

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Eileen|Eileen]]
*[[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
*

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser_Cutter
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:SvenG|SvenG]]

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Metal_Lathes
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: 2-3h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Table_Saw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: TBD (last: 2021-11-5)

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]]
* [[Johanna]]
* [[User:Bruh|Nana]]
* Lukas Mathur (Woodkid)

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Wood_Lathe
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 20 min per person

Next Date: ''TBD'' (last: 2021-11-20)

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:Sebastian|Sebastian]]
* [[User:Ronanb|Ronan]]

Waiting Lists

2021-12-11T12:37:06Z

Lars: /* Laser Cutter Introduction */

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

''If you want to "wait" for a vehicle spot, see [[Vehicle Workspaces|vehicle workspaces]].''

<big>'''How to Use'''</big> 
Please '''link''' your [[Special:MyPage|user page]] at the bottom of each list you're interested in after you've filled it with enough information to contact you and/or activated "Allow other users to email me" in your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]]!

If a list is full enough and/or you have been waiting for a while, please reach out to the tool's tutors and kindly ask for a date - maybe they've just been too busy, but it could also be that they missed the list filling up and would appreciate the reminder.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]] ==

Tutors:{{#show: Prusa_i3_MK2S
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ed Green|Ed]]

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Welding_Transformer
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: 1 h + 20 min per member (to be confirmed)

Next Date: TBD - waiting for completion of the welding corner, [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/199 everyone can help!]

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Blacksheep|Micha]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

==[[Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Bandsaw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1.5 h

Next Date: 2021-9-17, 20:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
* [[User:Ploenk]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]] (would be interested to become a tutor later, but I'm not an expert in band saws at the moment)
* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Chop_Saw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~30 min

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Sebastian|Sebastian]]
* [[User:BenKenobi|BenKenobi]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: CNC_Router
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: > 1 h (to be confirmed)

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Leo|Leo]]
* [[User:Hanna|Hanna]]
* [[User:Ed_Green]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
* [[User:Lars|Lars]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]

== [[Compressor Introduction]] ==
Tutors:{{#show: Compressor
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}Time required: < 15 min - not really worth a list...

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:St3ffi|Steffi]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld_Router
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 15 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:BenKenobi|BenKenobi]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

== [[Jointer-Planer Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60 min + 20 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Eileen|Eileen]]
* [[User:Narquadah|Kim]]
* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:BenKenobi|BenKenobi]]
* [[User:F.Huchinson|F.Huchinson]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser_Cutter
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: TBD

[[User:Sebastian|Sebastian]] would like to become a tutor!

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:F.Huchinson|F.Huchinson]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Barbara E|Barbara E]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Metal_Lathes
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: 2-3h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Table_Saw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: TBD (last: 2021-11-5)

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]]

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Wood_Lathe
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 20 min per person

Next Date: ''TBD'' (last: 2021-11-20)

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:Sebastian|Sebastian]]
* [[User:Ronanb|Ronan]]

Waiting Lists

2021-11-01T14:55:09Z

Lars: /* Laser Cutter Introduction */

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

''If you want to "wait" for a vehicle spot, see [[Vehicle Workspaces|vehicle workspaces]].''

<big>'''How to Use'''</big> 
Please '''link''' your [[Special:MyPage|user page]] at the bottom of each list you're interested in after you've filled it with enough information to contact you and/or activated "Allow other users to email me" in your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]]!

If a list is full enough and/or you have been waiting for a while, please reach out to the tool's tutors and kindly ask for a date - maybe they've just been too busy, but it could also be that they missed the list filling up and would appreciate the reminder.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]] ==

Tutors:{{#show: Prusa_i3_MK2S
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ed Green|Ed]]

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Welding_Transformer
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: 1 h + 20 min per member (to be confirmed)

Next Date: TBD - waiting for completion of the welding corner, [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/199 everyone can help!]

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Blacksheep|Micha]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

==[[Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Bandsaw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1.5 h

Next Date: 2021-9-17, 20:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
* [[User:Ploenk]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]] (would be interested to become a tutor later, but I'm not an expert in band saws at the moment)
* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Lepus|Nidal]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Chop_Saw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~30 min

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Sebastian|Sebastian]]
* [[User:BenKenobi|BenKenobi]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: CNC_Router
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: > 1 h (to be confirmed)

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Leo|Leo]]
* [[User:Hanna|Hanna]]
* [[User:Ed_Green]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:DANIEL BULTRINI|Daniel]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Kalunho|Kalun]]
* [[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
* [[User:Lars|Lars]]

== [[Compressor Introduction]] ==
Tutors:{{#show: Compressor
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}Time required: < 15 min - not really worth a list...

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:St3ffi|Steffi]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]
* [[User:Lepus|Nidal]]

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld_Router
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 15 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:BenKenobi|BenKenobi]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

== [[Jointer-Planer Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60 min + 20 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[eileen]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:Gregor|Gregor]]
* [[User:Narquadah|Kim]]
* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:BenKenobi|BenKenobi]]
* [[User:F.Huchinson|F.Huchinson]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser_Cutter
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: TBD

[[User:Sebastian|Sebastian]] would like to become a tutor!

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:Kalunho|Kalun]]
* [[User:F.Huchinson|F.Huchinson]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]
* [[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
* Barbara E
* [[User:Blacksheep|Micha]]
* [[User:Lars|Lars]]

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Metal_Lathes
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: 2-3h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
* [[User:Blacksheep|Micha]]
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:Utis|User]]
*

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Table_Saw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: TBD (last: 2021-7-14)

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]]
* [[User:Kalunho|Kalun]]
* [[User:HoerstJ|HoerstJ]]
* [[User:PaulW|PaulW]]

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Wood_Lathe
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 2 h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
* [[User:AlexBaumgart|AlexBaumgart]]
* [[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]]
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]]
* [[User:Sebastian|Sebastian]]
* [[User:Kalunho|Kalun]]
* [[User:BenKenobi|BenKenobi]]
* [[User:Ronanb|Ronan]]

Biscuit Joiner

2021-10-29T11:26:42Z

Lars:

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Toolson PRO-DF 860
|german=|image=Biscuit_Joiner.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Flachdübelfräsmaschine, Flachdübelfräse, Handschlitzfräse, Nutfräse, Lamellofräse
|type=power tool
|material=[[wood]]
|used with=[[biscuits]], [[Wood Glue|wood glue]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=after commissioning: [[Biscuit Joiner Introduction|biscuit joiner introduction]]
|status=in [[commissioning]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Lars|Lars]]
|manual=[https://media.bahag.com/assets/11/08/1108343_22120348.pdf media.bahag.com]
|donation=
|similar="Domino" joiner
}}
As mentioned in the [[Plenum/Meeting_minutes/2018-10-05 |Plenum]], [[User:Sbillaudelle | Sebastian]] brought in a biscuit joiner.

This tool is very useful for panel glue-ups, where the evenly placed biscuits make sure the individual boards don't shift.

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=done
|PictureComment=
|Manual=done
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=pending
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=Done
|QRComment=
|Introduction=done
|IntroductionComment=[[Biscuit Joiner Introduction]]
|Security=done
|SecurityComment=[[User:Lukas]] with [[User:Lars]]
|Test=done
|TestComment=[[User:Lukas]] watched Sebastian and [[User:Lars]] use it
|OwnerValue=done
|OwnerValueComment=entered by [[Lukas]]
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

[[Category:Joinery]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Biscuit Joiner

2021-10-29T11:26:25Z

Lars:

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Toolson PRO-DF 860
|german=|image=Biscuit_Joiner.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Flachdübelfräsmaschine, Flachdübelfräse, Handschlitzfräse, Nutfräse, Lamellofräse
|type=power tool
|material=[[wood]]
|used with=[[biscuits]], [[Wood Glue|wood glue]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=after commissioning: [[Biscuit Joiner Introduction|biscuit joiner introduction]]
|status=in [[commissioning]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Lars|Lars]]
|manual=[https://media.bahag.com/assets/11/08/1108343_22120348.pdf media.bahag.com]
|donation=
|similar="Domino" joiner
}}
As mentioned in the [[Plenum/Meeting_minutes/2018-10-05 |Plenum]], [[User:Sbillaudelle | Sebastian]] brought in a biscuit joiner.

This tool is very useful for panel glue-ups, where the evenly placed biscuits make sure the individual boards don't shift.

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=done
|PictureComment=
|Manual=done
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=open
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=Done
|QRComment=
|Introduction=done
|IntroductionComment=[[Biscuit Joiner Introduction]]
|Security=done
|SecurityComment=[[User:Lukas]] with [[User:Lars]]
|Test=done
|TestComment=[[User:Lukas]] watched Sebastian and [[User:Lars]] use it
|OwnerValue=done
|OwnerValueComment=entered by [[Lukas]]
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

[[Category:Joinery]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Biscuit Joiner

2021-10-29T11:25:08Z

Lars:

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Toolson PRO-DF 860
|german=|image=Biscuit_Joiner.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Flachdübelfräsmaschine, Flachdübelfräse, Handschlitzfräse, Nutfräse, Lamellofräse
|type=power tool
|material=[[wood]]
|used with=[[biscuits]], [[Wood Glue|wood glue]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=after commissioning: [[Biscuit Joiner Introduction|biscuit joiner introduction]]
|status=in [[commissioning]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Lars|Lars]]
|manual=[https://media.bahag.com/assets/11/08/1108343_22120348.pdf media.bahag.com]
|donation=
|similar="Domino" joiner
}}
As mentioned in the [[Plenum/Meeting_minutes/2018-10-05 |Plenum]], [[User:Sbillaudelle | Sebastian]] brought in a biscuit joiner.

This tool is very useful for panel glue-ups, where the evenly placed biscuits make sure the individual boards don't shift.

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=done
|PictureComment=
|Manual=done
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=done
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=Done
|QRComment=
|Introduction=done
|IntroductionComment=[[Biscuit Joiner Introduction]]
|Security=done
|SecurityComment=[[User:Lukas]] with [[User:Lars]]
|Test=done
|TestComment=[[User:Lukas]] watched Sebastian and [[User:Lars]] use it
|OwnerValue=done
|OwnerValueComment=entered by [[Lukas]]
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

[[Category:Joinery]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Jointer-Planer

2021-10-29T11:24:14Z

Lars:

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Hammer A3-31
|german=|image=Hammer A3-31.jpg
|synonyms=planer-thicknesser, power jointer, thickness planer; DE: Abricht- und Dickenhobelmaschine, "Abrichte", "Dickte"
|type=
|status=in [[commissioning]]
|access= [[Jointer-Planer_Introduction| jointer-planer introduction]]; '''not alone'''
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]] (CNC area)
|material=naturally structured [[wood]] (not more [[Engineered Woods|engineered]] than [[Glulam|glued laminated timber]]!)
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Lars|Lars]]
|manual=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
|donation=
|similar=[[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]], [[planer]]
|used with=[[Push Block|push block]] '''with lip''', [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]]
}}
A jointer is used for straightening the narrow sides of [[Wood|wooden]] boards which is necessary for panel glue-ups and some kinds of [[:Category:Joinery|joinery]]. It basically consists of a flat surface with a slightly protruding cutting drum at the center.

We chose to get a combination jointer/planer to save valuable space: thanks to the second flat surface ''under'' this cutting drum, you can also thickness boards with this machine! You can therefore [[Material:Wood#Buying Rough-Sawn Wood|buy rough-sawn wood]] and dimension it at the CoMakingSpace.

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=Done
|PictureComment=
|Manual=done
|ManualComment=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/224 graphic overview of (barely) possible workpiece sizes] would be nice
|QR=Done
|QRComment=Done
|Introduction=Done
|IntroductionComment=[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]
|Security=done
|SecurityComment=
|Test=Done
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=Done
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

== Jointing ==
[[File:jointer - fingers together.JPG|thumb|200px|right|when moving a workpiece over the [[jointer]], your fingers should always remain close together and far from the blades]]
Jointing (using the top table of the machine) creates flat, perpendicular surfaces. Flawless edges are especially important for glue-ups, e.g. to make your own [[glulam|glued laminated timber]] panels!

You should check the fence for squareness against the table, e.g. with a [[square]] or [[inclinometer]]. Advanced users may also try to joint at other angles than 90°.

A square fence is not ''absolutely'' required for a good glue-up joint: if you can't improve squareness (or want to play it safe either way), try varying the orientation of each board's edges as you joint them. If all your "left" edges are off-square in one direction and all the "right" ones are the opposite, you will still get a perfectly '''matching''', but not square, joint ([https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=C9scpxNqb40&t=1m12s video]).
 

'''Pieces for jointing need to be AT LEAST 10 mm high and AT MOST 310 mm wide.'''

== Planing ==
[[File:planer - angled infeed.JPG|thumb|200px|angled infeed as one way to mitigate snipe]]
If you flip the top of the machine back, you're able to feed a workpiece ''under'' the knives to plane its top surface. Thereby you can obtain a board with parallel faces and dial in its thickness exactly as you want. Make sure you fully [https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/understanding-grain-direction/ understand grain direction] or you'll easily get tearout!

Feeding boards through at a slight angle may help to avoid "snipe" ''(Hobelschläge)'' but you should be prepared to cut off unsightly ends afterwards - i.e., plane oversized boards and cut them to length as the next step.

'''Pieces for planing need to be AT LEAST 4 mm high and 160 mm long and AT MOST 250 mm high or 306 mm wide.'''

== Accessories ==
=== Dust Evacuation ===
The planer should only be used in tandem with a suitable [[Dust Evacuation|dust evacuation]] system. The intended machine for this purpose is the [[Felder AF 14]], that should be in close proximity to the planer. The system should be hooked up through the automated switch box (switched output) mounted on the metal frame, that should also be connected to the planer (trigger output). Once the planer is started the vacuum system will turn on after 3 seconds and turn off once the planer is off for 8 seconds. Make sure to set the switch on the vacuum motor to '1' (ON) before starting!

== Alternatives ==
* jointing can also be achieved with a plane (ideally a long-bodied [[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]]) or a special [[Jigs|jig]] for the [[Table Saw|table saw]]
* instead of a thickness planer, you can use [[Bench Planes|bench planes]] or a handheld [[planer]]

[[Category:Woodworking]]

Jointer-Planer

2021-10-29T11:11:14Z

Lars: added myself as tutor

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Hammer A3-31
|german=|image=Hammer A3-31.jpg
|synonyms=planer-thicknesser, power jointer, thickness planer; DE: Abricht- und Dickenhobelmaschine, "Abrichte", "Dickte"
|type=
|status=in [[commissioning]]
|access= [[Jointer-Planer_Introduction| jointer-planer introduction]]; '''not alone'''
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]] (CNC area)
|material=naturally structured [[wood]] (not more [[Engineered Woods|engineered]] than [[Glulam|glued laminated timber]]!)
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[User:Lars|Lars]]
|manual=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
|donation=
|similar=[[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]], [[planer]]
|used with=[[Push Block|push block]] '''with lip''', [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]]
}}
A jointer is used for straightening the narrow sides of [[Wood|wooden]] boards which is necessary for panel glue-ups and some kinds of [[:Category:Joinery|joinery]]. It basically consists of a flat surface with a slightly protruding cutting drum at the center.

We chose to get a combination jointer/planer to save valuable space: thanks to the second flat surface ''under'' this cutting drum, you can also thickness boards with this machine! You can therefore [[Material:Wood#Buying Rough-Sawn Wood|buy rough-sawn wood]] and dimension it at the CoMakingSpace.

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=Done
|PictureComment=
|Manual=done
|ManualComment=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/224 graphic overview of (barely) possible workpiece sizes] would be nice
|QR=Done
|QRComment=Done
|Introduction=Done
|IntroductionComment=[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]
|Security=done
|SecurityComment=
|Test=Done
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=Done
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

== Jointing ==
[[File:jointer - fingers together.JPG|thumb|200px|right|when moving a workpiece over the [[jointer]], your fingers should always remain close together and far from the blades]]
Jointing (using the top table of the machine) creates flat, perpendicular surfaces. Flawless edges are especially important for glue-ups, e.g. to make your own [[glulam|glued laminated timber]] panels!

You should check the fence for squareness against the table, e.g. with a [[square]] or [[inclinometer]]. Advanced users may also try to joint at other angles than 90°.

A square fence is not ''absolutely'' required for a good glue-up joint: if you can't improve squareness (or want to play it safe either way), try varying the orientation of each board's edges as you joint them. If all your "left" edges are off-square in one direction and all the "right" ones are the opposite, you will still get a perfectly '''matching''', but not square, joint ([https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=C9scpxNqb40&t=1m12s video]).
 

'''Pieces for jointing need to be AT LEAST 10 mm high and AT MOST 310 mm wide.'''

== Planing ==
[[File:planer - angled infeed.JPG|thumb|200px|angled infeed as one way to mitigate snipe]]
If you flip the top of the machine back, you're able to feed a workpiece ''under'' the knives to plane its top surface. Thereby you can obtain a board with parallel faces and dial in its thickness exactly as you want. Make sure you fully [https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/understanding-grain-direction/ understand grain direction] or you'll easily get tearout!

Feeding boards through at a slight angle may help to avoid "snipe" ''(Hobelschläge)'' but you should be prepared to cut off unsightly ends afterwards - i.e., plane oversized boards and cut them to length as the next step.

'''Pieces for planing need to be AT LEAST 4 mm high and 160 mm long and AT MOST 250 mm high or 306 mm wide.'''

== Accessories ==
=== Dust Evacuation ===
The planer should only be used in tandem with a suitable [[Dust Evacuation|dust evacuation]] system. The intended machine for this purpose is the [[Felder AF 14]], that should be in close proximity to the planer. The system should be hooked up through the automated switch box (switched output) mounted on the metal frame, that should also be connected to the planer (trigger output). Once the planer is started the vacuum system will turn on after 3 seconds and turn off once the planer is off for 8 seconds. Make sure to set the switch on the vacuum motor to '1' (ON) before starting!

== Alternatives ==
* jointing can also be achieved with a plane (ideally a long-bodied [[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]]) or a special [[Jigs|jig]] for the [[Table Saw|table saw]]
* instead of a thickness planer, you can use [[Bench Planes|bench planes]] or a handheld [[planer]]

[[Category:Woodworking]]

Biscuit Joiner

2021-10-28T08:29:40Z

Lars: was commissioned yesterday by User:Lukas

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Toolson PRO-DF 860
|german=|image=Biscuit_Joiner.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Flachdübelfräsmaschine, Flachdübelfräse, Handschlitzfräse, Nutfräse, Lamellofräse
|type=power tool
|material=[[wood]]
|used with=[[biscuits]], [[Wood Glue|wood glue]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=after commissioning: [[Biscuit Joiner Introduction|biscuit joiner introduction]]
|status=in [[commissioning]]
|tutors=[[User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[User:Lars|Lars]]
|manual=[https://media.bahag.com/assets/11/08/1108343_22120348.pdf media.bahag.com]
|donation=
|similar="Domino" joiner
}}
As mentioned in the [[Plenum/Meeting_minutes/2018-10-05 |Plenum]], [[User:Sbillaudelle | Sebastian]] brought in a biscuit joiner.

This tool is very useful for panel glue-ups, where the evenly placed biscuits make sure the individual boards don't shift.

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=done
|PictureComment=
|Manual=done
|ManualComment=
|Documentation=done
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=Done
|QRComment=
|Introduction=done
|IntroductionComment=[[Biscuit Joiner Introduction]]
|Security=done
|SecurityComment=[[User:Lukas]] with [[User:Lars]]
|Test=done
|TestComment=[[User:Lukas]] watched Sebastian and [[User:Lars]] use it
|OwnerValue=done
|OwnerValueComment=entered by [[Lukas]]
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

[[Category:Joinery]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Eccentric Sanders

2021-10-17T11:49:01Z

Lars: /* Bosch PEX 300 AE */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Eccentric Sanders''
|image=eccentric sander motion.png
|synonyms=geared eccentric sanders, random orbital sanders, DE: Exzenterschleifer, DE: Handscheibenschleifmaschinen
|type=power [[sanders]]
|location=|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=|similar=[[Belt Sander|belt sander]]
|used with=[[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
An eccentric sander is very useful for finishing surfaces. The major advantage of this kind of sander is the irregular motion of the [[Sanding Disc|sanding disc]] which greatly reduces unsightly marks on the workpiece.

== Safety ==
When using an eccentric sander, always take the time to properly [[Clamps|clamp]] down your workpiece, hook up the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] and wear [[goggles|safety glasses]]. Depending on your material, you may also need a [[Dust Masks|dust mask]].

As with all our [[sanders]], please go outside if you can't keep the airborne dust to a minimum!

== Suggested Reading ==
* [https://assets.festool.com/media/p2010_gwro150_de.pdf ''Grundwissen Rotex (DE)'']
* [http://www.holzwerken.net/Blog/Heiko-Rech/Eckig-oder-rund ''comparison of sheet vs. eccentric sanders on Holzwerken.net (DE)'']

 
== Festo RO 2 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Festo RO 2 E
|image=Festo RO 2 E.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Exzenterschleifer, Orbital Sander|type=|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|manual=[https://manuall.de/festo-ro-2-e-schwingschleifer/ manuall.de]
|material=|used with=150 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] with 8 holes
}}
The Festo RO 2 E had a broken switch when we got it, we overrode that and installed a cord switch instead. That means it has no protection against accidental turning on after you plug it in (''keine Anlaufsicherung'')!

When the foam part of our usual sanding part crumbled away, [[User:Keno|Keno]] and {{£}} glued its velcro ''(Klett)'' sheet to a healthier pad with bad velcro ("Polymer-Klebstoff", [[XPS]] scrap piece for even clamping pressure without breaking the disc).

 

== Festo RO 150 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Festo RO 150 E
|image=Festo RO 150 E.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Exzenterschleifer, Orbital Sander|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|type=|status=needs repair (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/25 #25])
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]] (ladder shelf)
|tutors=
|manual=nearly identical to [https://manuall.de/festo-ro-2-e-schwingschleifer/ Festo RO 2 E (manuall.de)]
|material=|used with=150 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] with 8 holes
|extrabox=yes
}}
The Festo RO 150 E '''needs to be repaired (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/25 #25]) before it can be added to the [[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]].''' Since the other one is working, this is not overly urgent though.

 

== Bosch PEX 300 AE ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch PEX 300 AE
|image=Bosch PEX 300 AE.jpg
|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|status=[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/221 damaged velcro pad]
|synonyms=DE: Exzenterschleifer, Orbital Sander|type=[[sander]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=depends on the disc
|used with=125 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] (8 holes)
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lars|Lars]]
|manual=[https://www.bosch-do-it.de/media/garden/gardenmedia/manuals/1618224_160992A4MX_201810pdf..pdf bosch-do-it.de]
|similar=
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Lars|Lars]] brought us his Bosch PEX 300 AE as a permanent [[loan]]!

It is a much handier machine than the large ROTEX models which you will appreciate during any longer sanding task.

Due to the fine dust filter you should be able to use it inside for a while if you have correctly perforated [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]], but please go outside when you're sanding a lot and the wheather allows it!

This machine is [[Category:MissingQR]] missing a QR code!

[[Category:Sanders]]
[[Category:Sanding]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Eccentric Sanders

2021-10-17T11:48:03Z

Lars: /* Festo RO 150 E */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Eccentric Sanders''
|image=eccentric sander motion.png
|synonyms=geared eccentric sanders, random orbital sanders, DE: Exzenterschleifer, DE: Handscheibenschleifmaschinen
|type=power [[sanders]]
|location=|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=|similar=[[Belt Sander|belt sander]]
|used with=[[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
An eccentric sander is very useful for finishing surfaces. The major advantage of this kind of sander is the irregular motion of the [[Sanding Disc|sanding disc]] which greatly reduces unsightly marks on the workpiece.

== Safety ==
When using an eccentric sander, always take the time to properly [[Clamps|clamp]] down your workpiece, hook up the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] and wear [[goggles|safety glasses]]. Depending on your material, you may also need a [[Dust Masks|dust mask]].

As with all our [[sanders]], please go outside if you can't keep the airborne dust to a minimum!

== Suggested Reading ==
* [https://assets.festool.com/media/p2010_gwro150_de.pdf ''Grundwissen Rotex (DE)'']
* [http://www.holzwerken.net/Blog/Heiko-Rech/Eckig-oder-rund ''comparison of sheet vs. eccentric sanders on Holzwerken.net (DE)'']

 
== Festo RO 2 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Festo RO 2 E
|image=Festo RO 2 E.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Exzenterschleifer, Orbital Sander|type=|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|manual=[https://manuall.de/festo-ro-2-e-schwingschleifer/ manuall.de]
|material=|used with=150 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] with 8 holes
}}
The Festo RO 2 E had a broken switch when we got it, we overrode that and installed a cord switch instead. That means it has no protection against accidental turning on after you plug it in (''keine Anlaufsicherung'')!

When the foam part of our usual sanding part crumbled away, [[User:Keno|Keno]] and {{£}} glued its velcro ''(Klett)'' sheet to a healthier pad with bad velcro ("Polymer-Klebstoff", [[XPS]] scrap piece for even clamping pressure without breaking the disc).

 

== Festo RO 150 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Festo RO 150 E
|image=Festo RO 150 E.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Exzenterschleifer, Orbital Sander|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|type=|status=needs repair (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/25 #25])
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]] (ladder shelf)
|tutors=
|manual=nearly identical to [https://manuall.de/festo-ro-2-e-schwingschleifer/ Festo RO 2 E (manuall.de)]
|material=|used with=150 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] with 8 holes
|extrabox=yes
}}
The Festo RO 150 E '''needs to be repaired (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/25 #25]) before it can be added to the [[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]].''' Since the other one is working, this is not overly urgent though.

 

== Bosch PEX 300 AE ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch PEX 300 AE
|image=Bosch PEX 300 AE.jpg
|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|status=[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/221 damaged velcro pad]
|type=[[sander]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=depends on the disc
|used with=125 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] (8 holes)
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lars|Lars]]
|manual=[https://www.bosch-do-it.de/media/garden/gardenmedia/manuals/1618224_160992A4MX_201810pdf..pdf bosch-do-it.de]
|similar=
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Lars|Lars]] brought us his Bosch PEX 300 AE as a permanent [[loan]]!

It is a much handier machine than the large ROTEX models which you will appreciate during any longer sanding task.

Due to the fine dust filter you should be able to use it inside for a while if you have correctly perforated [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]], but please go outside when you're sanding a lot and the wheather allows it!

This machine is [[Category:MissingQR]] missing a QR code!

[[Category:Sanders]]
[[Category:Sanding]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Eccentric Sanders

2021-10-17T11:47:39Z

Lars: /* Festo RO 2 E */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Eccentric Sanders''
|image=eccentric sander motion.png
|synonyms=geared eccentric sanders, random orbital sanders, DE: Exzenterschleifer, DE: Handscheibenschleifmaschinen
|type=power [[sanders]]
|location=|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=|similar=[[Belt Sander|belt sander]]
|used with=[[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
An eccentric sander is very useful for finishing surfaces. The major advantage of this kind of sander is the irregular motion of the [[Sanding Disc|sanding disc]] which greatly reduces unsightly marks on the workpiece.

== Safety ==
When using an eccentric sander, always take the time to properly [[Clamps|clamp]] down your workpiece, hook up the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] and wear [[goggles|safety glasses]]. Depending on your material, you may also need a [[Dust Masks|dust mask]].

As with all our [[sanders]], please go outside if you can't keep the airborne dust to a minimum!

== Suggested Reading ==
* [https://assets.festool.com/media/p2010_gwro150_de.pdf ''Grundwissen Rotex (DE)'']
* [http://www.holzwerken.net/Blog/Heiko-Rech/Eckig-oder-rund ''comparison of sheet vs. eccentric sanders on Holzwerken.net (DE)'']

 
== Festo RO 2 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Festo RO 2 E
|image=Festo RO 2 E.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Exzenterschleifer, Orbital Sander|type=|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|manual=[https://manuall.de/festo-ro-2-e-schwingschleifer/ manuall.de]
|material=|used with=150 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] with 8 holes
}}
The Festo RO 2 E had a broken switch when we got it, we overrode that and installed a cord switch instead. That means it has no protection against accidental turning on after you plug it in (''keine Anlaufsicherung'')!

When the foam part of our usual sanding part crumbled away, [[User:Keno|Keno]] and {{£}} glued its velcro ''(Klett)'' sheet to a healthier pad with bad velcro ("Polymer-Klebstoff", [[XPS]] scrap piece for even clamping pressure without breaking the disc).

 

== Festo RO 150 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Festo RO 150 E
|image=Festo RO 150 E.jpg
|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|status=needs repair (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/25 #25])
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]] (ladder shelf)
|tutors=
|manual=nearly identical to [https://manuall.de/festo-ro-2-e-schwingschleifer/ Festo RO 2 E (manuall.de)]
|used with=150 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] with 8 holes
|extrabox=yes
}}
The Festo RO 150 E '''needs to be repaired (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/25 #25]) before it can be added to the [[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]].''' Since the other one is working, this is not overly urgent though.

 

== Bosch PEX 300 AE ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch PEX 300 AE
|image=Bosch PEX 300 AE.jpg
|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|status=[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/221 damaged velcro pad]
|type=[[sander]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=depends on the disc
|used with=125 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] (8 holes)
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lars|Lars]]
|manual=[https://www.bosch-do-it.de/media/garden/gardenmedia/manuals/1618224_160992A4MX_201810pdf..pdf bosch-do-it.de]
|similar=
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Lars|Lars]] brought us his Bosch PEX 300 AE as a permanent [[loan]]!

It is a much handier machine than the large ROTEX models which you will appreciate during any longer sanding task.

Due to the fine dust filter you should be able to use it inside for a while if you have correctly perforated [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]], but please go outside when you're sanding a lot and the wheather allows it!

This machine is [[Category:MissingQR]] missing a QR code!

[[Category:Sanders]]
[[Category:Sanding]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Eccentric Sanders

2021-10-17T11:47:00Z

Lars: Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Eccentric Sanders''
|image=eccentric sander motion.png
|synonyms=geared eccentric sanders, random orbital sanders, DE: Exzenterschleifer, DE: Handscheibenschleifmaschinen
|type=power [[sanders]]
|location=|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=|similar=[[Belt Sander|belt sander]]
|used with=[[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
An eccentric sander is very useful for finishing surfaces. The major advantage of this kind of sander is the irregular motion of the [[Sanding Disc|sanding disc]] which greatly reduces unsightly marks on the workpiece.

== Safety ==
When using an eccentric sander, always take the time to properly [[Clamps|clamp]] down your workpiece, hook up the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] and wear [[goggles|safety glasses]]. Depending on your material, you may also need a [[Dust Masks|dust mask]].

As with all our [[sanders]], please go outside if you can't keep the airborne dust to a minimum!

== Suggested Reading ==
* [https://assets.festool.com/media/p2010_gwro150_de.pdf ''Grundwissen Rotex (DE)'']
* [http://www.holzwerken.net/Blog/Heiko-Rech/Eckig-oder-rund ''comparison of sheet vs. eccentric sanders on Holzwerken.net (DE)'']

 
== Festo RO 2 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Festo RO 2 E
|image=Festo RO 2 E.jpg
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|manual=[https://manuall.de/festo-ro-2-e-schwingschleifer/ manuall.de]
|used with=150 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] with 8 holes
}}
The Festo RO 2 E had a broken switch when we got it, we overrode that and installed a cord switch instead. That means it has no protection against accidental turning on after you plug it in (''keine Anlaufsicherung'')!

When the foam part of our usual sanding part crumbled away, [[User:Keno|Keno]] and {{£}} glued its velcro ''(Klett)'' sheet to a healthier pad with bad velcro ("Polymer-Klebstoff", [[XPS]] scrap piece for even clamping pressure without breaking the disc).

 

== Festo RO 150 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Festo RO 150 E
|image=Festo RO 150 E.jpg
|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|status=needs repair (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/25 #25])
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]] (ladder shelf)
|tutors=
|manual=nearly identical to [https://manuall.de/festo-ro-2-e-schwingschleifer/ Festo RO 2 E (manuall.de)]
|used with=150 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] with 8 holes
|extrabox=yes
}}
The Festo RO 150 E '''needs to be repaired (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/25 #25]) before it can be added to the [[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]].''' Since the other one is working, this is not overly urgent though.

 

== Bosch PEX 300 AE ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch PEX 300 AE
|image=Bosch PEX 300 AE.jpg
|access=[[Handheld Sander Introduction|handheld sander introduction]]
|status=[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/221 damaged velcro pad]
|type=[[sander]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=depends on the disc
|used with=125 mm [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]] (8 holes)
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lars|Lars]]
|manual=[https://www.bosch-do-it.de/media/garden/gardenmedia/manuals/1618224_160992A4MX_201810pdf..pdf bosch-do-it.de]
|similar=
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Lars|Lars]] brought us his Bosch PEX 300 AE as a permanent [[loan]]!

It is a much handier machine than the large ROTEX models which you will appreciate during any longer sanding task.

Due to the fine dust filter you should be able to use it inside for a while if you have correctly perforated [[Sanding Discs|sanding discs]], but please go outside when you're sanding a lot and the wheather allows it!

This machine is [[Category:MissingQR]] missing a QR code!

[[Category:Sanders]]
[[Category:Sanding]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Dust Extractors

2021-10-17T11:46:31Z

Lars: /* Felder AF 14 */ Added german translation

Besides the smaller [[Shop Vacs|shop vacs]], we have two higher volume dust extractor that we [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/77 might eventually hook up to a small system of pipes] around the [[Wood Workshop|wood workshop]].

== BAMATO AB-550 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=BAMATO AB-550
|image=Bamato.jpg
|synonyms=vacuum extractor, vacuum extraction machine DE: Absauganlage
|type=[[dust]] collection
|material=[[wood]] & similar dust (not sparks!)
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=read the manual
|status=in [[commissioning]]
|firmware=
|software=
|manual=in the bag; nearly identical: [https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1NssSHAxeS.pdf Einhell TE-VE 550 A] (the BAMATO does not have an automatic power outlet)
|tutors=
|used with=[[Hearing Protection|hearing protection]], [[Breathing Protection|breathing protection]]
|similar=[[Shop Vacs|shop vacs]]
}}

Caution - in its factory state, this machine does NOT have a fine dust filter! If used for tasks like [[sanding]], it may even spread the fine dust more than if you had not used it at all. It is therefore mainly suitable for the extraction of larger chips and does NOT replace a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]].

=== Maintenance ===
'''UNPLUG before you do any maintenance''' 

It should easily suck up smaller chips and saw dust from a surface if the pipe opening is placed perpendicular to the surface. If this is not the case you will have to service it. Over time larger chips that are sucked up don´t make it in to the rotor and clog the airway. They can usually be removed by disconnecting the pipe from the rotor and clearing the nest manually. Also the white fabric filter gets clogged over time and should be cleaned to. If the filter inflates like a bouncy castle upon turning it on, it is time to clean it. '''Wear a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]]''' .
 Obviously the plastic bag needs to be emptied when full.

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=BAMATO AB-550
|NamingComment=done
|Picture=done
|PictureComment=
|Manual=done
|ManualComment=nearly the same as [https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/B1NssSHAxeS.pdf Einhell TE-VE 550 A]
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=should contain dangers/precautions, basic facts (adapter sizes, power) and how to empty the bag
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=-
|IntroductionComment=not needed
|Security=done
|SecurityComment=[[Lukas]]
|Test=done
|TestComment=[[Lukas]]
|OwnerValue=done
|OwnerValueComment=entered by [[Lukas]]
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

 
== Felder AF 14 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Felder AF 14
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Absauganlage|type=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood wirkshop]] (close to [[CNC Area|CNC area]])
|access=
|status=
|manual=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/501-180-001_01_0803_HA_BA_S01_GER_lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)]
|tutors=-
|material=|used with=[[Jointer-Planer|jointer-planer]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
The Felder AF 14 should be in close proximity to the [[Jointer-Planer|jointer-planer]].

The system should be hooked up through the automated switch box (switched output) mounted on the metal frame, that should also be connected to the planer (trigger output). Once the planer is started the vacuum system will turn on after 3 seconds and turn off once the planer is off for 8 seconds. Make sure to set the switch on the vacuum motor to '1' (ON) before starting!

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=
|PictureComment=
|Manual=done
|ManualComment=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/501-180-001_01_0803_HA_BA_S01_GER_lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)]
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=
|Security=done
|SecurityComment=
|Test=done
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

[[Category:Dust]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Drying Ovens

2021-10-17T11:45:54Z

Lars: Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Drying Ovens
|image=drying oven.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Trockenöfen, DE: Trockenofen
|type=
|material=
|location=[[Location::Electronics Room|eRoom]], [[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=upon reading
|status=working
|firmware=
|software=
|manual=
|tutors=
|used with=heat-resistant [[gloves]]
|similar=pizza oven
}}
We got two decommissioned lab drying ovens that can be used like a normal kitchen oven, with the important difference that these ovens are for non-food items.

They should be able to reach temperatures around 250°C (according to the dials).

== House Rules ==
Use common sense - a running oven consumes a lot of energy and can even be a fire hazard. Therefore, '''do not leave an oven running when you leave the Space!'''

== Uses ==
Feel free to try whatever is safe, i.e. certainly won't damage the oven or any people!

So far, members have used these ovens to...
* [[Project:Precious Plastic|melt plastic]] (only with good ventilation!)
* cure paint or [[epoxy]] more quickly
* dry moist [[filament]] before [[3DP|3D printing]]
* shrink-fitting: expand one [[metal]] piece to insert a second one (e.g. a [[bearing]]) that's been contracted by cold
* ''...?''

[[File:Shrink fit example.JPG|thumb|left|200px|after this scooter part was heated in a drying oven and the [[bearings]] were cooled down with [[Freeze Spray|freeze spray]], the parts slid together easily and became solidly connected once everything was back at the same temperature]]

It may also be possible to [[temper]] metal after hardening - has anyone tried?

[[Category:Heat]]
[[Category:Metalworking]]

Drill Presses

2021-10-17T11:45:29Z

Lars: /* Einhell TB 13/5 ED */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Drill Presses''
|image=
|synonyms=bench drills, pillar drills, column drills; DE: Säulenbohrmaschinen, DE: "Tischbohrmaschinen", DE: Tischbohrmaschine DE: "Bohrständer", DE: "Senkbohrer"
|type=power [[Drills|drill]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|material=depending on the [[Drill Bits|drill bit]]: [[wood]], [[plastic]], [[metal]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=|similar=[[Drill Stand|drill stand]], other [[drills]]
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]], [[inclinometer]]
}}

To use a drill press, you'll need to mount a [[Bits#Drill Bits|drill bit]] that suits your workpiece and securely fasten it with the chuck key.

== Safety ==
* read the manual!
* get a [[Drill Press Introduction|personal introduction]] by one of the tutors!
* wear [[Personal Protection|personal protection]], but '''never operate the drill press with gloves on'''!
* don't drill materials with harmful dust!
* make sure there is nobody nearby who might be surprised by a piece of shrapnel flying their way!
* use a [[Vises#Machine Vises|machine vise]] for small workpieces!
* never use a machine vise on top of a wooden board or two wooden boards at the same time (tower rule)!

== Fastening Options ==
[[File:Drill press with lever clamp.JPG|thumb|200 px|left|a [[Clamps#Lever Clamps|lever clamp]] can be used for some workpieces such as this door handle shaft]]

* we should get one or two of these [http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17593.jpg drill press locking clamps] if they are available around here
* additional tables to mount on the simple "standard" one are probably worth the effort
** inspiration: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnx041pWc-k Stephan Pöhnlein on YouTube]

== Jigs ==
Some ideas what we should make for a more efficient/safe use of a drill press:
* [[V-Block|V-block]] for drilling into round or angled things
* [https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Vertical-Drill-Press-Clamp/ vertical clamp] (very simple, basically to board with a hinge at one end)

 

== ZJ5116 TB 16 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=ZJ5116 TB 16
|image=Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16.png
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine, DE: Standbohrmaschine|type=|status=working
|material=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|manual=
}}

* Drill bit sizes: 3-16mm
* Transmission: 16 gear (170-3080rpm)
[[File:Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16 Speeds.jpg|left|thumb|Transmission Speeds (green are the correct ones for 50Hz)]]
 

== Scheppach DP 16 SL ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Scheppach DP 16 SL
|image=Scheppach_dp_16sl.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine, DE: Standbohrmaschine|type=|status=working '''[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/213 except slowest speed]'''
|material=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=[https://media.bahag.com/assets/26/66/2666194_25021243.pdf bahag.com]
}}
[[User:Blacksheep|Blacksheep]] kindly donated a Scheppach DP 16 SL drill press in August 2019. 
From a technical point of view, it offers the following:
* Drill mount: 3 - 16 mm
* Speed: <strike>510</strike> 800 - 2430 rpm

=== Drill Speeds ===
When changing the belt position, unlock the the motor hinge with the screw on the right side. Then move the belt on the pulley that reduces the diameter and afterwards change the belt position on the second pulley (similar to changing the chain on a bike). When the belt is in its final position, it should be '''level ''(waagerecht)''''' and have enough slack so the motor can be pushed back and re-locked with the screw. 
'''The slowest speed is currently [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/213 not available due to a broken pulley]!
'''
[[File:Scheppach Drill Speeds.JPG|600px|left|Gearing ratios]]
 

=== Depth Stop ===
The original depth stop collar broke relatively soon, so {{P}} designed a [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/blob/master/3DPrintingFiles/Drill%20Press%20Depthstop.step 3D printable replacement part].

 

== Einhell TB 13/5 ED ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Einhell TB 13/5 ED
|image=Drill press TB13-5ED.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine, DE: Standbohrmaschine|type=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|material=|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual='''very''' similar to [http://www.guede.com/sys/dl/55120_55190_55192_55193_55194_55195_55197_55423_55435_ml.pdf "Güde GTB 13/5"]
}}
We got this machine when it was pretty old already so [[Patrick]] took it apart, cleaned and painted it. Something in the pulleys still isn't centered which causes slight vibration in the machine. It isn't much of an issue as the shaft is quite rigid and runs true.

The drill bits can sometimes be a little off center as the chuck is not that great - just quickly check before drilling. It often helps to twist the bit back and forth with one hand while closing the chuck with the other.

=== Shortcomings/Upgrade Potential ===
[[File:Drill press depth flexibility.JPG|thumb|left|300px|the depth stop of the Einhell drill press is made of a flexible material, reducing its precision - while this can often be ignored, it is important to remember for fine work]]

Until there is money left over for a newer/fancier drill press, we can collect desirable features here:
* more stable depth stop (see photo)
* electronic speed control instead of manual change of belts
* larger "throat size" (distance from the drill bit to the stand)
* safety: clear chuck guard (probably rather common nowadays)
* ''anything else?''

[[Category:Drills]]
[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Drill Presses

2021-10-17T11:45:11Z

Lars: /* Scheppach DP 16 SL */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Drill Presses''
|image=
|synonyms=bench drills, pillar drills, column drills; DE: Säulenbohrmaschinen, DE: "Tischbohrmaschinen", DE: Tischbohrmaschine DE: "Bohrständer", DE: "Senkbohrer"
|type=power [[Drills|drill]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|material=depending on the [[Drill Bits|drill bit]]: [[wood]], [[plastic]], [[metal]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=|similar=[[Drill Stand|drill stand]], other [[drills]]
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]], [[inclinometer]]
}}

To use a drill press, you'll need to mount a [[Bits#Drill Bits|drill bit]] that suits your workpiece and securely fasten it with the chuck key.

== Safety ==
* read the manual!
* get a [[Drill Press Introduction|personal introduction]] by one of the tutors!
* wear [[Personal Protection|personal protection]], but '''never operate the drill press with gloves on'''!
* don't drill materials with harmful dust!
* make sure there is nobody nearby who might be surprised by a piece of shrapnel flying their way!
* use a [[Vises#Machine Vises|machine vise]] for small workpieces!
* never use a machine vise on top of a wooden board or two wooden boards at the same time (tower rule)!

== Fastening Options ==
[[File:Drill press with lever clamp.JPG|thumb|200 px|left|a [[Clamps#Lever Clamps|lever clamp]] can be used for some workpieces such as this door handle shaft]]

* we should get one or two of these [http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17593.jpg drill press locking clamps] if they are available around here
* additional tables to mount on the simple "standard" one are probably worth the effort
** inspiration: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnx041pWc-k Stephan Pöhnlein on YouTube]

== Jigs ==
Some ideas what we should make for a more efficient/safe use of a drill press:
* [[V-Block|V-block]] for drilling into round or angled things
* [https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Vertical-Drill-Press-Clamp/ vertical clamp] (very simple, basically to board with a hinge at one end)

 

== ZJ5116 TB 16 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=ZJ5116 TB 16
|image=Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16.png
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine, DE: Standbohrmaschine|type=|status=working
|material=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|manual=
}}

* Drill bit sizes: 3-16mm
* Transmission: 16 gear (170-3080rpm)
[[File:Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16 Speeds.jpg|left|thumb|Transmission Speeds (green are the correct ones for 50Hz)]]
 

== Scheppach DP 16 SL ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Scheppach DP 16 SL
|image=Scheppach_dp_16sl.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine, DE: Standbohrmaschine|type=|status=working '''[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/213 except slowest speed]'''
|material=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=[https://media.bahag.com/assets/26/66/2666194_25021243.pdf bahag.com]
}}
[[User:Blacksheep|Blacksheep]] kindly donated a Scheppach DP 16 SL drill press in August 2019. 
From a technical point of view, it offers the following:
* Drill mount: 3 - 16 mm
* Speed: <strike>510</strike> 800 - 2430 rpm

=== Drill Speeds ===
When changing the belt position, unlock the the motor hinge with the screw on the right side. Then move the belt on the pulley that reduces the diameter and afterwards change the belt position on the second pulley (similar to changing the chain on a bike). When the belt is in its final position, it should be '''level ''(waagerecht)''''' and have enough slack so the motor can be pushed back and re-locked with the screw. 
'''The slowest speed is currently [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/213 not available due to a broken pulley]!
'''
[[File:Scheppach Drill Speeds.JPG|600px|left|Gearing ratios]]
 

=== Depth Stop ===
The original depth stop collar broke relatively soon, so {{P}} designed a [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/blob/master/3DPrintingFiles/Drill%20Press%20Depthstop.step 3D printable replacement part].

 

== Einhell TB 13/5 ED ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Einhell TB 13/5 ED
|image=Drill press TB13-5ED.jpg
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual='''very''' similar to [http://www.guede.com/sys/dl/55120_55190_55192_55193_55194_55195_55197_55423_55435_ml.pdf "Güde GTB 13/5"]
}}
We got this machine when it was pretty old already so [[Patrick]] took it apart, cleaned and painted it. Something in the pulleys still isn't centered which causes slight vibration in the machine. It isn't much of an issue as the shaft is quite rigid and runs true.

The drill bits can sometimes be a little off center as the chuck is not that great - just quickly check before drilling. It often helps to twist the bit back and forth with one hand while closing the chuck with the other.

=== Shortcomings/Upgrade Potential ===
[[File:Drill press depth flexibility.JPG|thumb|left|300px|the depth stop of the Einhell drill press is made of a flexible material, reducing its precision - while this can often be ignored, it is important to remember for fine work]]

Until there is money left over for a newer/fancier drill press, we can collect desirable features here:
* more stable depth stop (see photo)
* electronic speed control instead of manual change of belts
* larger "throat size" (distance from the drill bit to the stand)
* safety: clear chuck guard (probably rather common nowadays)
* ''anything else?''

[[Category:Drills]]
[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Drill Presses

2021-10-17T11:44:53Z

Lars: /* ZJ5116 TB 16 */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Drill Presses''
|image=
|synonyms=bench drills, pillar drills, column drills; DE: Säulenbohrmaschinen, DE: "Tischbohrmaschinen", DE: Tischbohrmaschine DE: "Bohrständer", DE: "Senkbohrer"
|type=power [[Drills|drill]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|material=depending on the [[Drill Bits|drill bit]]: [[wood]], [[plastic]], [[metal]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=|similar=[[Drill Stand|drill stand]], other [[drills]]
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]], [[inclinometer]]
}}

To use a drill press, you'll need to mount a [[Bits#Drill Bits|drill bit]] that suits your workpiece and securely fasten it with the chuck key.

== Safety ==
* read the manual!
* get a [[Drill Press Introduction|personal introduction]] by one of the tutors!
* wear [[Personal Protection|personal protection]], but '''never operate the drill press with gloves on'''!
* don't drill materials with harmful dust!
* make sure there is nobody nearby who might be surprised by a piece of shrapnel flying their way!
* use a [[Vises#Machine Vises|machine vise]] for small workpieces!
* never use a machine vise on top of a wooden board or two wooden boards at the same time (tower rule)!

== Fastening Options ==
[[File:Drill press with lever clamp.JPG|thumb|200 px|left|a [[Clamps#Lever Clamps|lever clamp]] can be used for some workpieces such as this door handle shaft]]

* we should get one or two of these [http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17593.jpg drill press locking clamps] if they are available around here
* additional tables to mount on the simple "standard" one are probably worth the effort
** inspiration: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnx041pWc-k Stephan Pöhnlein on YouTube]

== Jigs ==
Some ideas what we should make for a more efficient/safe use of a drill press:
* [[V-Block|V-block]] for drilling into round or angled things
* [https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Vertical-Drill-Press-Clamp/ vertical clamp] (very simple, basically to board with a hinge at one end)

 

== ZJ5116 TB 16 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=ZJ5116 TB 16
|image=Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16.png
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine, DE: Standbohrmaschine|type=|status=working
|material=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|manual=
}}

* Drill bit sizes: 3-16mm
* Transmission: 16 gear (170-3080rpm)
[[File:Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16 Speeds.jpg|left|thumb|Transmission Speeds (green are the correct ones for 50Hz)]]
 

== Scheppach DP 16 SL ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Scheppach DP 16 SL
|image=Scheppach_dp_16sl.jpg
|status=working '''[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/213 except slowest speed]'''
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=[https://media.bahag.com/assets/26/66/2666194_25021243.pdf bahag.com]
}}
[[User:Blacksheep|Blacksheep]] kindly donated a Scheppach DP 16 SL drill press in August 2019. 
From a technical point of view, it offers the following:
* Drill mount: 3 - 16 mm
* Speed: <strike>510</strike> 800 - 2430 rpm

=== Drill Speeds ===
When changing the belt position, unlock the the motor hinge with the screw on the right side. Then move the belt on the pulley that reduces the diameter and afterwards change the belt position on the second pulley (similar to changing the chain on a bike). When the belt is in its final position, it should be '''level ''(waagerecht)''''' and have enough slack so the motor can be pushed back and re-locked with the screw. 
'''The slowest speed is currently [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/213 not available due to a broken pulley]!
'''
[[File:Scheppach Drill Speeds.JPG|600px|left|Gearing ratios]]
 

=== Depth Stop ===
The original depth stop collar broke relatively soon, so {{P}} designed a [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/blob/master/3DPrintingFiles/Drill%20Press%20Depthstop.step 3D printable replacement part].

 

== Einhell TB 13/5 ED ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Einhell TB 13/5 ED
|image=Drill press TB13-5ED.jpg
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual='''very''' similar to [http://www.guede.com/sys/dl/55120_55190_55192_55193_55194_55195_55197_55423_55435_ml.pdf "Güde GTB 13/5"]
}}
We got this machine when it was pretty old already so [[Patrick]] took it apart, cleaned and painted it. Something in the pulleys still isn't centered which causes slight vibration in the machine. It isn't much of an issue as the shaft is quite rigid and runs true.

The drill bits can sometimes be a little off center as the chuck is not that great - just quickly check before drilling. It often helps to twist the bit back and forth with one hand while closing the chuck with the other.

=== Shortcomings/Upgrade Potential ===
[[File:Drill press depth flexibility.JPG|thumb|left|300px|the depth stop of the Einhell drill press is made of a flexible material, reducing its precision - while this can often be ignored, it is important to remember for fine work]]

Until there is money left over for a newer/fancier drill press, we can collect desirable features here:
* more stable depth stop (see photo)
* electronic speed control instead of manual change of belts
* larger "throat size" (distance from the drill bit to the stand)
* safety: clear chuck guard (probably rather common nowadays)
* ''anything else?''

[[Category:Drills]]
[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Drill Presses

2021-10-17T11:44:03Z

Lars: Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Drill Presses''
|image=
|synonyms=bench drills, pillar drills, column drills; DE: Säulenbohrmaschinen, DE: "Tischbohrmaschinen", DE: Tischbohrmaschine DE: "Bohrständer", DE: "Senkbohrer"
|type=power [[Drills|drill]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|material=depending on the [[Drill Bits|drill bit]]: [[wood]], [[plastic]], [[metal]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=|similar=[[Drill Stand|drill stand]], other [[drills]]
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]], [[inclinometer]]
}}

To use a drill press, you'll need to mount a [[Bits#Drill Bits|drill bit]] that suits your workpiece and securely fasten it with the chuck key.

== Safety ==
* read the manual!
* get a [[Drill Press Introduction|personal introduction]] by one of the tutors!
* wear [[Personal Protection|personal protection]], but '''never operate the drill press with gloves on'''!
* don't drill materials with harmful dust!
* make sure there is nobody nearby who might be surprised by a piece of shrapnel flying their way!
* use a [[Vises#Machine Vises|machine vise]] for small workpieces!
* never use a machine vise on top of a wooden board or two wooden boards at the same time (tower rule)!

== Fastening Options ==
[[File:Drill press with lever clamp.JPG|thumb|200 px|left|a [[Clamps#Lever Clamps|lever clamp]] can be used for some workpieces such as this door handle shaft]]

* we should get one or two of these [http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17593.jpg drill press locking clamps] if they are available around here
* additional tables to mount on the simple "standard" one are probably worth the effort
** inspiration: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnx041pWc-k Stephan Pöhnlein on YouTube]

== Jigs ==
Some ideas what we should make for a more efficient/safe use of a drill press:
* [[V-Block|V-block]] for drilling into round or angled things
* [https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Vertical-Drill-Press-Clamp/ vertical clamp] (very simple, basically to board with a hinge at one end)

 

== ZJ5116 TB 16 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=ZJ5116 TB 16
|image=Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16.png
|status=working
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|manual=
}}

* Drill bit sizes: 3-16mm
* Transmission: 16 gear (170-3080rpm)
[[File:Drill Press ZJ5116 TB 16 Speeds.jpg|left|thumb|Transmission Speeds (green are the correct ones for 50Hz)]]
 

== Scheppach DP 16 SL ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Scheppach DP 16 SL
|image=Scheppach_dp_16sl.jpg
|status=working '''[https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/213 except slowest speed]'''
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=[https://media.bahag.com/assets/26/66/2666194_25021243.pdf bahag.com]
}}
[[User:Blacksheep|Blacksheep]] kindly donated a Scheppach DP 16 SL drill press in August 2019. 
From a technical point of view, it offers the following:
* Drill mount: 3 - 16 mm
* Speed: <strike>510</strike> 800 - 2430 rpm

=== Drill Speeds ===
When changing the belt position, unlock the the motor hinge with the screw on the right side. Then move the belt on the pulley that reduces the diameter and afterwards change the belt position on the second pulley (similar to changing the chain on a bike). When the belt is in its final position, it should be '''level ''(waagerecht)''''' and have enough slack so the motor can be pushed back and re-locked with the screw. 
'''The slowest speed is currently [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/213 not available due to a broken pulley]!
'''
[[File:Scheppach Drill Speeds.JPG|600px|left|Gearing ratios]]
 

=== Depth Stop ===
The original depth stop collar broke relatively soon, so {{P}} designed a [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/blob/master/3DPrintingFiles/Drill%20Press%20Depthstop.step 3D printable replacement part].

 

== Einhell TB 13/5 ED ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Einhell TB 13/5 ED
|image=Drill press TB13-5ED.jpg
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual='''very''' similar to [http://www.guede.com/sys/dl/55120_55190_55192_55193_55194_55195_55197_55423_55435_ml.pdf "Güde GTB 13/5"]
}}
We got this machine when it was pretty old already so [[Patrick]] took it apart, cleaned and painted it. Something in the pulleys still isn't centered which causes slight vibration in the machine. It isn't much of an issue as the shaft is quite rigid and runs true.

The drill bits can sometimes be a little off center as the chuck is not that great - just quickly check before drilling. It often helps to twist the bit back and forth with one hand while closing the chuck with the other.

=== Shortcomings/Upgrade Potential ===
[[File:Drill press depth flexibility.JPG|thumb|left|300px|the depth stop of the Einhell drill press is made of a flexible material, reducing its precision - while this can often be ignored, it is important to remember for fine work]]

Until there is money left over for a newer/fancier drill press, we can collect desirable features here:
* more stable depth stop (see photo)
* electronic speed control instead of manual change of belts
* larger "throat size" (distance from the drill bit to the stand)
* safety: clear chuck guard (probably rather common nowadays)
* ''anything else?''

[[Category:Drills]]
[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Disc Grinders

2021-10-17T11:43:28Z

Lars: /* King Craft WS 125 */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Disc Grinders
|image=disc grinder vs steel.JPG
|synonyms=angle grinders, right-angle grinders; DE: "Flex", DE: Winkelschleifer, DE: Trennschleifer
|type=power tool
|access=[[Disc Grinder Introduction|disc grinder introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]
|material=depending on [[Abrasive Discs|disc]]: [[metal]] ''(except aluminum)'', [[stone]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=|similar=[[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]]
|used with=[[Face Shield|face shield]], [[goggles]], [[Ear Defenders|hearing protection]], [[gloves]], [[Abrasive Discs|abrasive discs]]
}}
We have a couple of disc grinders in the [[Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]. For small-scale applications, try using a [[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]] before you whip out this beast.

They can be used to cut or grind [[metal]] or [[stone]], depending on the disc used. [[Cut-Off Wheels|Cut-off wheels]] ''(Trennscheiben)'' should not be used for grinding and [[Grinding Discs|grinding discs]] ''(Schruppscheiben)'' should not be used for cutting as they are primarily reinforced for one of the purposes and could otherwise overheat and break.

== Safety ==
Due to the high amount of sparks generated, it is a good idea to wear a [[Face Shield|face shield]] as a second layer over your [[goggles]]! In addition, you should put on some [[gloves]] and [[Hearing Protection|hearing protection]] before using a disc grinder.

'''Make sure the disc is securely fastened and spins without an offset before cutting anything! The manual suggests letting it run for a minute without load, only if there is still no increased vibration after that it is safe to use.'''

Do NOT operate a grinder without its semi-circular collar - it will protect you from a lot of the sparks and shrapnel of the disc (if one breaks on you). Stay away from [[aluminum]], it can reportedly clog and overheat the disc up to the point of explosion!

== Discs ==
You may have to bring your own [[Abrasive Discs|discs]] if you have specific needs, but we have some basic ones:
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
|'''tool type'''
|'''use'''
|'''properties'''
|'''suggested donation'''
|-
|metal cut-off wheels (''Metall-Trennscheiben'')
|cutting [[metals]] (except [[aluminum]])
|125{{x}}1.2 mm
|1 €/disc
|-
|metal grinding discs (''Metall-Schruppscheiben'')
|grinding [[metals]] (except [[aluminum]])
|125{{x}}6 mm
|3.50 €/disc
|-
|sanding disc holder
|[[sanding]]
|''??''
|depends on the [[Sanding Discs|sanding disc]]
|}

We'd also like to have flap discs (''Fächerschleifscheiben'') in the future, feel free to leave us some after your project ;-)

== Available Machines ==

=== Makita 9565 HRZ ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Makita 9565 HRZ
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Trennschleifer|type=|extrabox=yes
|location=[[Metal Workshop]]
|access=[[Disc Grinder Introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], {{P}}
|manual=[https://www.icmsmakita.eu/CMS/custom/fi/attachments/user_manuals/User_manuals_EU2/9565HR.pdf Makita]
|material=|used with=125 mm [[Grinding Discs|grinding discs]]
}}

There are two Makita 9565 HRZ disc grinders with 1100W available at the metal workshop. Usually one should be setup with a cutting disc while the other has a surface grinding disc.

 

== Private Machines ==
=== King Craft WS 125 ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=King Craft WS 125
|image=King Craft WS-125.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Trennschleifer|type=|extrabox=yes
|location={{£}}
|access=ask nicely - may be [[borrowed]] [[Category:Borrowable]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|material=|used with=125 mm [[Grinding Discs|grinding discs]]
}}
'''CAUTION - the "King Craft" grinder has a switch that will stay on until you push it back to the "off" position, so it could surprisingly start when plugged in!'''

{{£}} [[loan]]ed this machine to the Space for about three years until we were able to buy the better ones. It's not great, but may still come in handy if you need it for a few cuts at home - just ask!

This grinder works with '''125 mm [[Abrasive Discs|discs]]'''.

[[Category:Metalworking]]

Disc Grinders

2021-10-17T11:43:12Z

Lars: /* Makita 9565 HRZ */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Disc Grinders
|image=disc grinder vs steel.JPG
|synonyms=angle grinders, right-angle grinders; DE: "Flex", DE: Winkelschleifer, DE: Trennschleifer
|type=power tool
|access=[[Disc Grinder Introduction|disc grinder introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]
|material=depending on [[Abrasive Discs|disc]]: [[metal]] ''(except aluminum)'', [[stone]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=|similar=[[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]]
|used with=[[Face Shield|face shield]], [[goggles]], [[Ear Defenders|hearing protection]], [[gloves]], [[Abrasive Discs|abrasive discs]]
}}
We have a couple of disc grinders in the [[Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]. For small-scale applications, try using a [[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]] before you whip out this beast.

They can be used to cut or grind [[metal]] or [[stone]], depending on the disc used. [[Cut-Off Wheels|Cut-off wheels]] ''(Trennscheiben)'' should not be used for grinding and [[Grinding Discs|grinding discs]] ''(Schruppscheiben)'' should not be used for cutting as they are primarily reinforced for one of the purposes and could otherwise overheat and break.

== Safety ==
Due to the high amount of sparks generated, it is a good idea to wear a [[Face Shield|face shield]] as a second layer over your [[goggles]]! In addition, you should put on some [[gloves]] and [[Hearing Protection|hearing protection]] before using a disc grinder.

'''Make sure the disc is securely fastened and spins without an offset before cutting anything! The manual suggests letting it run for a minute without load, only if there is still no increased vibration after that it is safe to use.'''

Do NOT operate a grinder without its semi-circular collar - it will protect you from a lot of the sparks and shrapnel of the disc (if one breaks on you). Stay away from [[aluminum]], it can reportedly clog and overheat the disc up to the point of explosion!

== Discs ==
You may have to bring your own [[Abrasive Discs|discs]] if you have specific needs, but we have some basic ones:
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
|'''tool type'''
|'''use'''
|'''properties'''
|'''suggested donation'''
|-
|metal cut-off wheels (''Metall-Trennscheiben'')
|cutting [[metals]] (except [[aluminum]])
|125{{x}}1.2 mm
|1 €/disc
|-
|metal grinding discs (''Metall-Schruppscheiben'')
|grinding [[metals]] (except [[aluminum]])
|125{{x}}6 mm
|3.50 €/disc
|-
|sanding disc holder
|[[sanding]]
|''??''
|depends on the [[Sanding Discs|sanding disc]]
|}

We'd also like to have flap discs (''Fächerschleifscheiben'') in the future, feel free to leave us some after your project ;-)

== Available Machines ==

=== Makita 9565 HRZ ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Makita 9565 HRZ
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Trennschleifer|type=|extrabox=yes
|location=[[Metal Workshop]]
|access=[[Disc Grinder Introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], {{P}}
|manual=[https://www.icmsmakita.eu/CMS/custom/fi/attachments/user_manuals/User_manuals_EU2/9565HR.pdf Makita]
|material=|used with=125 mm [[Grinding Discs|grinding discs]]
}}

There are two Makita 9565 HRZ disc grinders with 1100W available at the metal workshop. Usually one should be setup with a cutting disc while the other has a surface grinding disc.

 

== Private Machines ==
=== King Craft WS 125 ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=King Craft WS 125
|image=King Craft WS-125.jpg
|extrabox=yes
|location={{£}}
|access=ask nicely - may be [[borrowed]] [[Category:Borrowable]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|used with=125 mm [[Grinding Discs|grinding discs]]
}}
'''CAUTION - the "King Craft" grinder has a switch that will stay on until you push it back to the "off" position, so it could surprisingly start when plugged in!'''

{{£}} [[loan]]ed this machine to the Space for about three years until we were able to buy the better ones. It's not great, but may still come in handy if you need it for a few cuts at home - just ask!

This grinder works with '''125 mm [[Abrasive Discs|discs]]'''.

[[Category:Metalworking]]

Disc Grinders

2021-10-17T11:42:11Z

Lars: Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Disc Grinders
|image=disc grinder vs steel.JPG
|synonyms=angle grinders, right-angle grinders; DE: "Flex", DE: Winkelschleifer, DE: Trennschleifer
|type=power tool
|access=[[Disc Grinder Introduction|disc grinder introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]
|material=depending on [[Abrasive Discs|disc]]: [[metal]] ''(except aluminum)'', [[stone]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=|similar=[[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]]
|used with=[[Face Shield|face shield]], [[goggles]], [[Ear Defenders|hearing protection]], [[gloves]], [[Abrasive Discs|abrasive discs]]
}}
We have a couple of disc grinders in the [[Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]. For small-scale applications, try using a [[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]] before you whip out this beast.

They can be used to cut or grind [[metal]] or [[stone]], depending on the disc used. [[Cut-Off Wheels|Cut-off wheels]] ''(Trennscheiben)'' should not be used for grinding and [[Grinding Discs|grinding discs]] ''(Schruppscheiben)'' should not be used for cutting as they are primarily reinforced for one of the purposes and could otherwise overheat and break.

== Safety ==
Due to the high amount of sparks generated, it is a good idea to wear a [[Face Shield|face shield]] as a second layer over your [[goggles]]! In addition, you should put on some [[gloves]] and [[Hearing Protection|hearing protection]] before using a disc grinder.

'''Make sure the disc is securely fastened and spins without an offset before cutting anything! The manual suggests letting it run for a minute without load, only if there is still no increased vibration after that it is safe to use.'''

Do NOT operate a grinder without its semi-circular collar - it will protect you from a lot of the sparks and shrapnel of the disc (if one breaks on you). Stay away from [[aluminum]], it can reportedly clog and overheat the disc up to the point of explosion!

== Discs ==
You may have to bring your own [[Abrasive Discs|discs]] if you have specific needs, but we have some basic ones:
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
|'''tool type'''
|'''use'''
|'''properties'''
|'''suggested donation'''
|-
|metal cut-off wheels (''Metall-Trennscheiben'')
|cutting [[metals]] (except [[aluminum]])
|125{{x}}1.2 mm
|1 €/disc
|-
|metal grinding discs (''Metall-Schruppscheiben'')
|grinding [[metals]] (except [[aluminum]])
|125{{x}}6 mm
|3.50 €/disc
|-
|sanding disc holder
|[[sanding]]
|''??''
|depends on the [[Sanding Discs|sanding disc]]
|}

We'd also like to have flap discs (''Fächerschleifscheiben'') in the future, feel free to leave us some after your project ;-)

== Available Machines ==

=== Makita 9565 HRZ ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Makita 9565 HRZ
|image=
|extrabox=yes
|location=[[Metal Workshop]]
|access=[[Disc Grinder Introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], {{P}}
|manual=[https://www.icmsmakita.eu/CMS/custom/fi/attachments/user_manuals/User_manuals_EU2/9565HR.pdf Makita]
|used with=125 mm [[Grinding Discs|grinding discs]]
}}

There are two Makita 9565 HRZ disc grinders with 1100W available at the metal workshop. Usually one should be setup with a cutting disc while the other has a surface grinding disc.

 

== Private Machines ==
=== King Craft WS 125 ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=King Craft WS 125
|image=King Craft WS-125.jpg
|extrabox=yes
|location={{£}}
|access=ask nicely - may be [[borrowed]] [[Category:Borrowable]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=
|used with=125 mm [[Grinding Discs|grinding discs]]
}}
'''CAUTION - the "King Craft" grinder has a switch that will stay on until you push it back to the "off" position, so it could surprisingly start when plugged in!'''

{{£}} [[loan]]ed this machine to the Space for about three years until we were able to buy the better ones. It's not great, but may still come in handy if you need it for a few cuts at home - just ask!

This grinder works with '''125 mm [[Abrasive Discs|discs]]'''.

[[Category:Metalworking]]

Cordless Drills

2021-10-17T11:41:40Z

Lars: /* Bosch PSR 960 */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Cordless Drills''
|image=drilling wood.gif
|synonyms=cordless driver drills; DE: Akkuschrauber, Akkubohrschrauber
|type=power [[drills]]
|material=depending on the bit: [[screws]], [[plastic]], [[wood]], [[metal]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|similar=[[Drill Press|drill press]], [[screwdrivers]], [[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]], screw gun
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]], [[Screwdriver Bits|screwdriver bits]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
{{#set:
Has image=File:Cordless_Drills.jpg
}}
Cordless drills are very versatile tools and should not be missing from any workshop. Besides drilling, as the name implies, they are mostly used for driving screws ("electric screwdriver").

Here's a nice [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjtk2liJ0Gk video about the internal mechanics] of a typical drill!

== Proper Use ==
Please follow these simple guidelines to avoid damage to your screws, material, or the drill itself:
* the torque (DE: Drehmoment) can typically be set with the ring before the chuck
** '''better start out too low''' than to round your [[screws|screw]] in the first try - [[wood]] may also be damaged if screws (especially self-tapping/"Spax") are inserted too deep
** the '''drilling setting at the end of the scale should only be used for drilling''', it creates way too much torque for screws and screwdriver bits!
** excessive torque does NOT make you screw faster, it really just wrecks stuff...
* there may also be variable speed settings (slider on top)
** only change when the drill is fully stopped
** use the '''slower one (1) for screwing''' to prevent slipping
** the '''higher speed can be used for drilling'''

== Bits ==
* [[Screwdriver Bits|screwdriver bits]] and bit holders
* [[Bits#Drill Bits|drill bits]] (shaft diameter typically limited to 10 mm)

 
== Makita DDF484 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Makita DDF484
|image=Makita DDF484 with charger.jpeg
|synonyms=DE: Akkuschrauber|type=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|material=|location=on the [[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]; charger and spare battery are in the box underneath the table.
|manual=[https://www.makita.de/fileadmin/user_upload/DDF484-B.pdf makita.de]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}

We have two Makita DDF484 cordless drills. They have a 2 step metal gearbox for different drilling speeds. A torque limit for screwing can be set with the dial behind the chuck. Please use it to avoid breaking bits and screws due to too much torque! The chuck can hold up to 13mm drill bits. 
One drill was donated by [[User:Ed Green|Ed]] and the batteries/charger are sponsored from multiple member donations, our Amazon Smile income as well as for the Tor4 workshops.

=== Accessories ===
'''These were bought from member donations'''

* 2x 18V 3Ah Batteries (BL1830B)
* 1x charger (DC18RC)
* MAKPAC box for charger and batteries (usually underneath the [[Drilling Table|drilling table]])

'''Tor 4 aquisitions'''
* 2x 18V 5Ah batteries (BL1850B)
* 1x charger (DC18RC)
* MAKPAK box for charger, batteries and drill.

 

== DeWalt DC740KA ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=DeWalt DC740KA
|image=DeWalt DC740KA.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Akkuschrauber|type=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|material=|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|manual=[http://d.manualretriever.com/lect.php?ID=2289436 manualretriever.com]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
This drill got [[Project:DeWalt Battery Replacement|new batteries.]] 
Please be aware that the charger can be a bit confusing - green light means "not charging" - red light means "charging" 
If there is no light, make sure the charger is plugged in and switched on.

== Gear Damage ==
As this is a relatively old tool, it's not perfect anymore: the gears may decouple resulting in weird noise and a non-spinning chuck.

It's easily fixed, however: just go back and forth between the two speeds and you should be ready to go again!

 

== AlphaTools AS 18 A ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=AlphaTools AS 18 A
|image=AlphaToolsAS18A.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Akkuschrauber|type=|status=barely usable (bad batteries)
|material=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1199145/Alpha-Tools-As-18-A.html manualslib.com]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[Ciaran]]'s AlphaTools drill comes with two battery packs. '''The batteries barely hold a charge anymore, perhaps we could upgrade them to use recycled 18650 cells from laptop batteries?'''

It has two speeds and ''many'' torque settings.

The charger can be a bit confusing - green light means "not charging" and you'll have to press the yellow button to start charging a battery!

 
== Private Tools ==
=== Bosch PSR 960 ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch PSR 960
|image=PSR960.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Akkuschrauber|type=|material=|location={{£bench}}
|access=ask nicely - may be [[borrowed]] [[Category:Borrowable]]
|manual=in the box
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Lukas|Lukas]] has a Bosch PSR 960 you might be able to use! Unfortunately, its battery has gotten pretty bad.

It has six torque settings and only one speed.

::'''Power Supply'''
::There used to be two batteries, but one was quite old and only held its charge for a very short time. It was therefore [[Project:Semi-Cordless Drill|upgraded to a corded pack]].

::Charger for the intact one: "AL 1404", 7.2 to 14.4 V, 400 mA => 3 h charging time for the 1.2 Ah pack

::'''Please do not leave the battery in the charger for more than 3 or 4 hours, the old NiCd batteries will heat up and suffer from quite the memory effect!'''

[[Category:Drills]]

Cordless Drills

2021-10-17T11:41:17Z

Lars: /* AlphaTools AS 18 A */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Cordless Drills''
|image=drilling wood.gif
|synonyms=cordless driver drills; DE: Akkuschrauber, Akkubohrschrauber
|type=power [[drills]]
|material=depending on the bit: [[screws]], [[plastic]], [[wood]], [[metal]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|similar=[[Drill Press|drill press]], [[screwdrivers]], [[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]], screw gun
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]], [[Screwdriver Bits|screwdriver bits]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
{{#set:
Has image=File:Cordless_Drills.jpg
}}
Cordless drills are very versatile tools and should not be missing from any workshop. Besides drilling, as the name implies, they are mostly used for driving screws ("electric screwdriver").

Here's a nice [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjtk2liJ0Gk video about the internal mechanics] of a typical drill!

== Proper Use ==
Please follow these simple guidelines to avoid damage to your screws, material, or the drill itself:
* the torque (DE: Drehmoment) can typically be set with the ring before the chuck
** '''better start out too low''' than to round your [[screws|screw]] in the first try - [[wood]] may also be damaged if screws (especially self-tapping/"Spax") are inserted too deep
** the '''drilling setting at the end of the scale should only be used for drilling''', it creates way too much torque for screws and screwdriver bits!
** excessive torque does NOT make you screw faster, it really just wrecks stuff...
* there may also be variable speed settings (slider on top)
** only change when the drill is fully stopped
** use the '''slower one (1) for screwing''' to prevent slipping
** the '''higher speed can be used for drilling'''

== Bits ==
* [[Screwdriver Bits|screwdriver bits]] and bit holders
* [[Bits#Drill Bits|drill bits]] (shaft diameter typically limited to 10 mm)

 
== Makita DDF484 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Makita DDF484
|image=Makita DDF484 with charger.jpeg
|synonyms=DE: Akkuschrauber|type=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|material=|location=on the [[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]; charger and spare battery are in the box underneath the table.
|manual=[https://www.makita.de/fileadmin/user_upload/DDF484-B.pdf makita.de]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}

We have two Makita DDF484 cordless drills. They have a 2 step metal gearbox for different drilling speeds. A torque limit for screwing can be set with the dial behind the chuck. Please use it to avoid breaking bits and screws due to too much torque! The chuck can hold up to 13mm drill bits. 
One drill was donated by [[User:Ed Green|Ed]] and the batteries/charger are sponsored from multiple member donations, our Amazon Smile income as well as for the Tor4 workshops.

=== Accessories ===
'''These were bought from member donations'''

* 2x 18V 3Ah Batteries (BL1830B)
* 1x charger (DC18RC)
* MAKPAC box for charger and batteries (usually underneath the [[Drilling Table|drilling table]])

'''Tor 4 aquisitions'''
* 2x 18V 5Ah batteries (BL1850B)
* 1x charger (DC18RC)
* MAKPAK box for charger, batteries and drill.

 

== DeWalt DC740KA ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=DeWalt DC740KA
|image=DeWalt DC740KA.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Akkuschrauber|type=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|material=|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|manual=[http://d.manualretriever.com/lect.php?ID=2289436 manualretriever.com]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
This drill got [[Project:DeWalt Battery Replacement|new batteries.]] 
Please be aware that the charger can be a bit confusing - green light means "not charging" - red light means "charging" 
If there is no light, make sure the charger is plugged in and switched on.

== Gear Damage ==
As this is a relatively old tool, it's not perfect anymore: the gears may decouple resulting in weird noise and a non-spinning chuck.

It's easily fixed, however: just go back and forth between the two speeds and you should be ready to go again!

 

== AlphaTools AS 18 A ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=AlphaTools AS 18 A
|image=AlphaToolsAS18A.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Akkuschrauber|type=|status=barely usable (bad batteries)
|material=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1199145/Alpha-Tools-As-18-A.html manualslib.com]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[Ciaran]]'s AlphaTools drill comes with two battery packs. '''The batteries barely hold a charge anymore, perhaps we could upgrade them to use recycled 18650 cells from laptop batteries?'''

It has two speeds and ''many'' torque settings.

The charger can be a bit confusing - green light means "not charging" and you'll have to press the yellow button to start charging a battery!

 
== Private Tools ==
=== Bosch PSR 960 ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch PSR 960
|image=PSR960.jpg
|location={{£bench}}
|access=ask nicely - may be [[borrowed]] [[Category:Borrowable]]
|manual=in the box
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Lukas|Lukas]] has a Bosch PSR 960 you might be able to use! Unfortunately, its battery has gotten pretty bad.

It has six torque settings and only one speed.

::'''Power Supply'''
::There used to be two batteries, but one was quite old and only held its charge for a very short time. It was therefore [[Project:Semi-Cordless Drill|upgraded to a corded pack]].

::Charger for the intact one: "AL 1404", 7.2 to 14.4 V, 400 mA => 3 h charging time for the 1.2 Ah pack

::'''Please do not leave the battery in the charger for more than 3 or 4 hours, the old NiCd batteries will heat up and suffer from quite the memory effect!'''

[[Category:Drills]]

Cordless Drills

2021-10-17T11:41:00Z

Lars: /* DeWalt DC740KA */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Cordless Drills''
|image=drilling wood.gif
|synonyms=cordless driver drills; DE: Akkuschrauber, Akkubohrschrauber
|type=power [[drills]]
|material=depending on the bit: [[screws]], [[plastic]], [[wood]], [[metal]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|similar=[[Drill Press|drill press]], [[screwdrivers]], [[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]], screw gun
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]], [[Screwdriver Bits|screwdriver bits]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
{{#set:
Has image=File:Cordless_Drills.jpg
}}
Cordless drills are very versatile tools and should not be missing from any workshop. Besides drilling, as the name implies, they are mostly used for driving screws ("electric screwdriver").

Here's a nice [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjtk2liJ0Gk video about the internal mechanics] of a typical drill!

== Proper Use ==
Please follow these simple guidelines to avoid damage to your screws, material, or the drill itself:
* the torque (DE: Drehmoment) can typically be set with the ring before the chuck
** '''better start out too low''' than to round your [[screws|screw]] in the first try - [[wood]] may also be damaged if screws (especially self-tapping/"Spax") are inserted too deep
** the '''drilling setting at the end of the scale should only be used for drilling''', it creates way too much torque for screws and screwdriver bits!
** excessive torque does NOT make you screw faster, it really just wrecks stuff...
* there may also be variable speed settings (slider on top)
** only change when the drill is fully stopped
** use the '''slower one (1) for screwing''' to prevent slipping
** the '''higher speed can be used for drilling'''

== Bits ==
* [[Screwdriver Bits|screwdriver bits]] and bit holders
* [[Bits#Drill Bits|drill bits]] (shaft diameter typically limited to 10 mm)

 
== Makita DDF484 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Makita DDF484
|image=Makita DDF484 with charger.jpeg
|synonyms=DE: Akkuschrauber|type=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|material=|location=on the [[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]; charger and spare battery are in the box underneath the table.
|manual=[https://www.makita.de/fileadmin/user_upload/DDF484-B.pdf makita.de]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}

We have two Makita DDF484 cordless drills. They have a 2 step metal gearbox for different drilling speeds. A torque limit for screwing can be set with the dial behind the chuck. Please use it to avoid breaking bits and screws due to too much torque! The chuck can hold up to 13mm drill bits. 
One drill was donated by [[User:Ed Green|Ed]] and the batteries/charger are sponsored from multiple member donations, our Amazon Smile income as well as for the Tor4 workshops.

=== Accessories ===
'''These were bought from member donations'''

* 2x 18V 3Ah Batteries (BL1830B)
* 1x charger (DC18RC)
* MAKPAC box for charger and batteries (usually underneath the [[Drilling Table|drilling table]])

'''Tor 4 aquisitions'''
* 2x 18V 5Ah batteries (BL1850B)
* 1x charger (DC18RC)
* MAKPAK box for charger, batteries and drill.

 

== DeWalt DC740KA ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=DeWalt DC740KA
|image=DeWalt DC740KA.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Akkuschrauber|type=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|material=|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|manual=[http://d.manualretriever.com/lect.php?ID=2289436 manualretriever.com]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
This drill got [[Project:DeWalt Battery Replacement|new batteries.]] 
Please be aware that the charger can be a bit confusing - green light means "not charging" - red light means "charging" 
If there is no light, make sure the charger is plugged in and switched on.

== Gear Damage ==
As this is a relatively old tool, it's not perfect anymore: the gears may decouple resulting in weird noise and a non-spinning chuck.

It's easily fixed, however: just go back and forth between the two speeds and you should be ready to go again!

 

== AlphaTools AS 18 A ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=AlphaTools AS 18 A
|image=AlphaToolsAS18A.jpg
|status=barely usable (bad batteries)
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1199145/Alpha-Tools-As-18-A.html manualslib.com]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[Ciaran]]'s AlphaTools drill comes with two battery packs. '''The batteries barely hold a charge anymore, perhaps we could upgrade them to use recycled 18650 cells from laptop batteries?'''

It has two speeds and ''many'' torque settings.

The charger can be a bit confusing - green light means "not charging" and you'll have to press the yellow button to start charging a battery!

 
== Private Tools ==
=== Bosch PSR 960 ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch PSR 960
|image=PSR960.jpg
|location={{£bench}}
|access=ask nicely - may be [[borrowed]] [[Category:Borrowable]]
|manual=in the box
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Lukas|Lukas]] has a Bosch PSR 960 you might be able to use! Unfortunately, its battery has gotten pretty bad.

It has six torque settings and only one speed.

::'''Power Supply'''
::There used to be two batteries, but one was quite old and only held its charge for a very short time. It was therefore [[Project:Semi-Cordless Drill|upgraded to a corded pack]].

::Charger for the intact one: "AL 1404", 7.2 to 14.4 V, 400 mA => 3 h charging time for the 1.2 Ah pack

::'''Please do not leave the battery in the charger for more than 3 or 4 hours, the old NiCd batteries will heat up and suffer from quite the memory effect!'''

[[Category:Drills]]

Cordless Drills

2021-10-17T11:40:41Z

Lars: /* Makita DDF484 */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Cordless Drills''
|image=drilling wood.gif
|synonyms=cordless driver drills; DE: Akkuschrauber, Akkubohrschrauber
|type=power [[drills]]
|material=depending on the bit: [[screws]], [[plastic]], [[wood]], [[metal]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|similar=[[Drill Press|drill press]], [[screwdrivers]], [[Rotary Tool|rotary tool]], screw gun
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]], [[Screwdriver Bits|screwdriver bits]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
{{#set:
Has image=File:Cordless_Drills.jpg
}}
Cordless drills are very versatile tools and should not be missing from any workshop. Besides drilling, as the name implies, they are mostly used for driving screws ("electric screwdriver").

Here's a nice [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjtk2liJ0Gk video about the internal mechanics] of a typical drill!

== Proper Use ==
Please follow these simple guidelines to avoid damage to your screws, material, or the drill itself:
* the torque (DE: Drehmoment) can typically be set with the ring before the chuck
** '''better start out too low''' than to round your [[screws|screw]] in the first try - [[wood]] may also be damaged if screws (especially self-tapping/"Spax") are inserted too deep
** the '''drilling setting at the end of the scale should only be used for drilling''', it creates way too much torque for screws and screwdriver bits!
** excessive torque does NOT make you screw faster, it really just wrecks stuff...
* there may also be variable speed settings (slider on top)
** only change when the drill is fully stopped
** use the '''slower one (1) for screwing''' to prevent slipping
** the '''higher speed can be used for drilling'''

== Bits ==
* [[Screwdriver Bits|screwdriver bits]] and bit holders
* [[Bits#Drill Bits|drill bits]] (shaft diameter typically limited to 10 mm)

 
== Makita DDF484 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Makita DDF484
|image=Makita DDF484 with charger.jpeg
|synonyms=DE: Akkuschrauber|type=|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|material=|location=on the [[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]; charger and spare battery are in the box underneath the table.
|manual=[https://www.makita.de/fileadmin/user_upload/DDF484-B.pdf makita.de]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}

We have two Makita DDF484 cordless drills. They have a 2 step metal gearbox for different drilling speeds. A torque limit for screwing can be set with the dial behind the chuck. Please use it to avoid breaking bits and screws due to too much torque! The chuck can hold up to 13mm drill bits. 
One drill was donated by [[User:Ed Green|Ed]] and the batteries/charger are sponsored from multiple member donations, our Amazon Smile income as well as for the Tor4 workshops.

=== Accessories ===
'''These were bought from member donations'''

* 2x 18V 3Ah Batteries (BL1830B)
* 1x charger (DC18RC)
* MAKPAC box for charger and batteries (usually underneath the [[Drilling Table|drilling table]])

'''Tor 4 aquisitions'''
* 2x 18V 5Ah batteries (BL1850B)
* 1x charger (DC18RC)
* MAKPAK box for charger, batteries and drill.

 

== DeWalt DC740KA ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=DeWalt DC740KA
|image=DeWalt DC740KA.jpg
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|manual=[http://d.manualretriever.com/lect.php?ID=2289436 manualretriever.com]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
This drill got [[Project:DeWalt Battery Replacement|new batteries.]] 
Please be aware that the charger can be a bit confusing - green light means "not charging" - red light means "charging" 
If there is no light, make sure the charger is plugged in and switched on.

== Gear Damage ==
As this is a relatively old tool, it's not perfect anymore: the gears may decouple resulting in weird noise and a non-spinning chuck.

It's easily fixed, however: just go back and forth between the two speeds and you should be ready to go again!

 

== AlphaTools AS 18 A ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=AlphaTools AS 18 A
|image=AlphaToolsAS18A.jpg
|status=barely usable (bad batteries)
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Drilling Table|drilling table]]
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1199145/Alpha-Tools-As-18-A.html manualslib.com]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[Ciaran]]'s AlphaTools drill comes with two battery packs. '''The batteries barely hold a charge anymore, perhaps we could upgrade them to use recycled 18650 cells from laptop batteries?'''

It has two speeds and ''many'' torque settings.

The charger can be a bit confusing - green light means "not charging" and you'll have to press the yellow button to start charging a battery!

 
== Private Tools ==
=== Bosch PSR 960 ===
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch PSR 960
|image=PSR960.jpg
|location={{£bench}}
|access=ask nicely - may be [[borrowed]] [[Category:Borrowable]]
|manual=in the box
|extrabox=yes
}}
[[User:Lukas|Lukas]] has a Bosch PSR 960 you might be able to use! Unfortunately, its battery has gotten pretty bad.

It has six torque settings and only one speed.

::'''Power Supply'''
::There used to be two batteries, but one was quite old and only held its charge for a very short time. It was therefore [[Project:Semi-Cordless Drill|upgraded to a corded pack]].

::Charger for the intact one: "AL 1404", 7.2 to 14.4 V, 400 mA => 3 h charging time for the 1.2 Ah pack

::'''Please do not leave the battery in the charger for more than 3 or 4 hours, the old NiCd batteries will heat up and suffer from quite the memory effect!'''

[[Category:Drills]]

Archived:Corded Drills

2021-10-17T11:40:13Z

Lars: Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Corded Drills
|image=Bosch GBM 10 RE.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Handbohrmaschinen, DE: Handbohrmaschine, DE: Bohrmaschine
|type=power [[drills]]
|material=[[wood]], [[metals]], [[plastics]]
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]] (except [[Masonry Drill Bits|masonry drill bits]])
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=other [[drills]]
}}
Corded drills are what you might consider a "regular" electric [[drill]]. They usually have a pistol grip with a trigger and a direction selector pin, and often also a way to lock down the trigger so the motor stays on.

These drills are providing '''only rotary motion''' - if you need the added hammering force for chiseling or drilling into masonry, check out our [[Impact Drill|impact drill]] or [[Rotary Hammer|rotary hammer]]!

 
== Bosch GBM 10 RE ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch GBM 10 RE
|image=Bosch GBM 10 RE.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine
|type=
|material=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=[https://www.bosch-professional.com/binary/ocsmedia/optimized/full/o228086v21_1_609_92A_2AD_1406.pdf Bosch-Professional.com] (very similar)
|donation=
|similar=
}}

 
== Elu BM 11 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Elu BM 11 E
|image=Elu BM 11 E.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine
|type=
|material=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=???
|donation=
|similar=
}}

[[Category:Drills]]

Archived:Corded Drills

2021-10-17T11:39:47Z

Lars: /* Elu BM 11 E */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Corded Drills
|image=Bosch GBM 10 RE.jpg
|synonyms=DE: elektrische Handbohrmaschinen
|type=power [[drills]]
|material=[[wood]], [[metals]], [[plastics]]
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]] (except [[Masonry Drill Bits|masonry drill bits]])
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=other [[drills]]
}}
Corded drills are what you might consider a "regular" electric [[drill]]. They usually have a pistol grip with a trigger and a direction selector pin, and often also a way to lock down the trigger so the motor stays on.

These drills are providing '''only rotary motion''' - if you need the added hammering force for chiseling or drilling into masonry, check out our [[Impact Drill|impact drill]] or [[Rotary Hammer|rotary hammer]]!

 
== Bosch GBM 10 RE ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch GBM 10 RE
|image=Bosch GBM 10 RE.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine
|type=
|material=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=[https://www.bosch-professional.com/binary/ocsmedia/optimized/full/o228086v21_1_609_92A_2AD_1406.pdf Bosch-Professional.com] (very similar)
|donation=
|similar=
}}

 
== Elu BM 11 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Elu BM 11 E
|image=Elu BM 11 E.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine
|type=
|material=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=???
|donation=
|similar=
}}

[[Category:Drills]]

Archived:Corded Drills

2021-10-17T11:39:32Z

Lars: /* Bosch GBM 10 RE */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Corded Drills
|image=Bosch GBM 10 RE.jpg
|synonyms=DE: elektrische Handbohrmaschinen
|type=power [[drills]]
|material=[[wood]], [[metals]], [[plastics]]
|used with=[[Drill Bits|drill bits]] (except [[Masonry Drill Bits|masonry drill bits]])
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|manual=
|donation=
|similar=other [[drills]]
}}
Corded drills are what you might consider a "regular" electric [[drill]]. They usually have a pistol grip with a trigger and a direction selector pin, and often also a way to lock down the trigger so the motor stays on.

These drills are providing '''only rotary motion''' - if you need the added hammering force for chiseling or drilling into masonry, check out our [[Impact Drill|impact drill]] or [[Rotary Hammer|rotary hammer]]!

 
== Bosch GBM 10 RE ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bosch GBM 10 RE
|image=Bosch GBM 10 RE.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Bohrmaschine
|type=
|material=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=[https://www.bosch-professional.com/binary/ocsmedia/optimized/full/o228086v21_1_609_92A_2AD_1406.pdf Bosch-Professional.com] (very similar)
|donation=
|similar=
}}

 
== Elu BM 11 E ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Elu BM 11 E
|image=Elu BM 11 E.jpg
|synonyms=
|type=
|material=
|used with=
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Drill Introduction|drill introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=???
|donation=
|similar=
}}

[[Category:Drills]]

CNC Router

2021-10-17T11:39:02Z

Lars: /* WorkBee */ Added german translation

[[File:CNC router.gif|right|400px]]
A CNC router is a computerized [[woodworking]] machine - basically a [[router]] mounted on a positioning system. While it may also be able to handle other materials than wood depending on the [[bits]] you use, a proper [[CNC Mill|CNC mill]] is more precise for machining parts out of metals and other non-wood materials.

To use this machine, you need to familiarize yourself with at least two pieces of software:
* a [[CAD]]/[[CAM]] program (e.g. [[Fusion 360]])
** may also be two different programs, one for CAD and one for CAM
* a [[G-Code Senders|G-Code sender]]

There is also an interesting new approach of [https://shapertools.com/ handheld CNC routing] coming out which may remove the size constraints that come with any fixed-frame machine.

== Uses ==
You can [https://www.opendesk.cc/ make furniture] or even [https://wikihouse.cc/ build a house]. For more ideas, check out the [[CNC Milling Ideas]].

== WorkBee ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Ooznest WorkBee CNC
|image=Workbee frame.JPG
|synonyms=DE: CNC-Fräse, DE: Portalfräsmaschine, DE: Fräse, DE: Oberfräse
|type=
|material=[[wood]]
|location=[[Location::CNC Corner|CNC Corner]]
|access=[[CNC Router Introduction|CNC router introduction]]
|status=out of order (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/104 issue 104])
|firmware=[[grbl]]
|software=[[LaserWeb]], [[Fusion360]], see [[G-Code Sender]]
|manual=[http://ooznest.co.uk/WorkBee-CNC-Full-Kit product page], click "documentation" tab
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]]
|used with=6 mm, 8 mm, 1/4" or 1/8" [[End Mills|end mills]]; ''some'' kinds of [[Router Bits|router bits]]
|similar=[[router]], [[CNC Mill|CNC mill]]
}}

We built the 1500mm x 1500mm version of the [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538752 WorkBee CNC], which is based on the Openbuilds OX. It can currently cut sheet material of up to 50 mm thickness on a work area of approximately 1250{{x}}1250 mm. The surfaced ''(plangefräste)'' [[#Spoilboard|spoilboard]] area is 1260{{x}}1160 (x{{x}}y) mm.

Our plans for further improving it up can be found in [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/projects/1 our "WorkBee CNC" github project] - maybe you would like to help?

=== Router ===

The router mounted to it is a Dewalt D26200 (GB; known outside Europe as [https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/DWP611 DWP611]). You need to consider the sizes of its collets (''Spannzangen'') when buying your router bits.

* no-load speed: 16000 - 27000 rpm
* max cutter diameter: 30 mm
* available collet diameters:
** 6 mm
** 8 mm
** 1/4 inch (6.35 mm)
** 1/8 inch (3.175 mm)

The collets of the DW613, DW620 and DW621 also fit the router and are easier to get in Germany than the original ones.

=== Spoilboard ===

Ooznest recommends a 6mm spoiler board, our first one is 20mm thick. It is mounted to the frame using 4 drop-in [[T-Slot Nuts|T-slot nuts]]. Cutting into the boards will make it uneven, from time to time it is neccessary to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xav1uvCN6yY surface the spoiler board] again.

The total size of the spoilboard is currently 1445{{x}}1370 mm.

When there is time, we would like to [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/51 drill workholding holes into the spoilboard].

=== Electrics ===
''(partially outdated - no dedicated CNC room since 2020!)''

''The spindle and the CNC controller (CNC xPro v3) + motors are hooked up to an electrical box on the left wall. You'll find a switch and an outlet for the spindle there. In case of an emergency the whole box can be shut off via one of the two emergency stops (inside the CNC room and on the outside above the access control). Everything except the Raspberry Pi will be turned off in that case.''

The wiring of the CNC Controller board is as follows: 
[[File:CNC_Router_Wiring.jpg|400px]]

The wiring of the electrical box is as follows: 
[[File:CNC_Router_Power_Supply.png|400px]]

=== Dust Extraction ===
We have added a cyclone dust separator between the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] and the CNC router itself. Thereby, the bulk of the shavings and dust should be collected in an easily emptied box rather than the shop vac's bag.

The part that attaches the dust extraction hose to the router is called a "dust shoe". We are currently using [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/tree/master/3DPrintingFiles/WorkbeeCNC this one] designed by [[Patrick]]. The next version should ideally fit the dust extraction hose without an adapter and include a kind of transparent, flexible "skirt" to optimize the airflow.

Other interesting designs:
* https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802301

=== Workflow ===
'''This is just an overview and does NOT replace the [[CNC Router Introduction|personal introduction]]!'''

# create the tool paths in a suitable CAM software (e.g. [[Fusion 360]])
# [[CNC Router Workholding|secure your workpiece]] on the machine's bed
# insert the appropriate collet & bit as defined in your tool paths
# turn the positioning motors on, home the machine and define the workpiece origin
# put on [[PPE|personal protection]] and turn the spindle on
# send the tool paths to the router in real time via the serial interface (USB)
## options can be found under "[[G-Code Senders]]"

 

== Tips & Tricks ==
* to avoid tear-out at the edge of a sensitive workpiece, it may be worthwhile to surround it with some sacrificial material (like [[MDF]]) before routing [https://www.instagram.com/p/BW7hYEjFxP0/]

== Materials ==
(''For more details, see "[[Milling Experiences]]")''

CNC routing is most appropriate for non-metal panels/boards. The exact material might dictate your choice of [[endmill]] or [[Router Bit|router bit]]!

Cutting certain metals, e.g. millable aluminum, may still be possible with a lot of extra work, but a rigid and liquid-cooled [[CNC Mill|CNC mill]] would be the proper way to go.

=== Carbon Fiber ===

[[Material:Carbon Fiber|Carbon fiber]] (CF) dust can be harmful if handled improperly. If you intent to route CF parts on the CNC (like plates for quardrocopter parts) please follow the workflow below:

* Route carbon fiber only in a submerge water path e.g. in a large enough tray (keep enough towels near in case of an 'accident')
** Afterwards filter the water through a coffee filter or similar
* Don't vacuum the dust - instead, wipe it away with a moist towel or use some tape to pick it up
* Only wet sanding
* Keep the parts that came into contact with the carbon fiber dust in a sealed plastic bag until they are discarded
* Discard the remains at a local special waste disposal and don't put them in the garbage!

== Helpful Links ==
* video tutorials:
** [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXagoO_ru-R7ZrK_KgMQm-w/# Ooznest YouTube channel] (pretty new, but specific to our "WorkBee" setup)
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqnvzxuXFTQ Fusion 360 CAM Tutorial for Beginners] by Evan & Katelyn (insert our preferred [[G-Code Senders|G-code sender]] where they use Easel)
* other spaces with (somewhat) similar machines and good approaches/documentation:
** [https://wiki.attraktor.org/CNC-Fr%C3%A4se-III Attraktor e.V.]

* our page on choosing the proper [[feedrate]]

[[Category:CNC Routing]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

CNC Router

2021-10-17T11:38:27Z

Lars: /* WorkBee */ Added german translation

[[File:CNC router.gif|right|400px]]
A CNC router is a computerized [[woodworking]] machine - basically a [[router]] mounted on a positioning system. While it may also be able to handle other materials than wood depending on the [[bits]] you use, a proper [[CNC Mill|CNC mill]] is more precise for machining parts out of metals and other non-wood materials.

To use this machine, you need to familiarize yourself with at least two pieces of software:
* a [[CAD]]/[[CAM]] program (e.g. [[Fusion 360]])
** may also be two different programs, one for CAD and one for CAM
* a [[G-Code Senders|G-Code sender]]

There is also an interesting new approach of [https://shapertools.com/ handheld CNC routing] coming out which may remove the size constraints that come with any fixed-frame machine.

== Uses ==
You can [https://www.opendesk.cc/ make furniture] or even [https://wikihouse.cc/ build a house]. For more ideas, check out the [[CNC Milling Ideas]].

== WorkBee ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Ooznest WorkBee CNC
|image=Workbee frame.JPG
|synonyms=DE: CNC-Fräse, DE: Portalfräsmaschine
|type=
|material=[[wood]]
|location=[[Location::CNC Corner|CNC Corner]]
|access=[[CNC Router Introduction|CNC router introduction]]
|status=out of order (see [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/104 issue 104])
|firmware=[[grbl]]
|software=[[LaserWeb]], [[Fusion360]], see [[G-Code Sender]]
|manual=[http://ooznest.co.uk/WorkBee-CNC-Full-Kit product page], click "documentation" tab
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]]
|used with=6 mm, 8 mm, 1/4" or 1/8" [[End Mills|end mills]]; ''some'' kinds of [[Router Bits|router bits]]
|similar=[[router]], [[CNC Mill|CNC mill]]
}}

We built the 1500mm x 1500mm version of the [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538752 WorkBee CNC], which is based on the Openbuilds OX. It can currently cut sheet material of up to 50 mm thickness on a work area of approximately 1250{{x}}1250 mm. The surfaced ''(plangefräste)'' [[#Spoilboard|spoilboard]] area is 1260{{x}}1160 (x{{x}}y) mm.

Our plans for further improving it up can be found in [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/projects/1 our "WorkBee CNC" github project] - maybe you would like to help?

=== Router ===

The router mounted to it is a Dewalt D26200 (GB; known outside Europe as [https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/DWP611 DWP611]). You need to consider the sizes of its collets (''Spannzangen'') when buying your router bits.

* no-load speed: 16000 - 27000 rpm
* max cutter diameter: 30 mm
* available collet diameters:
** 6 mm
** 8 mm
** 1/4 inch (6.35 mm)
** 1/8 inch (3.175 mm)

The collets of the DW613, DW620 and DW621 also fit the router and are easier to get in Germany than the original ones.

=== Spoilboard ===

Ooznest recommends a 6mm spoiler board, our first one is 20mm thick. It is mounted to the frame using 4 drop-in [[T-Slot Nuts|T-slot nuts]]. Cutting into the boards will make it uneven, from time to time it is neccessary to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xav1uvCN6yY surface the spoiler board] again.

The total size of the spoilboard is currently 1445{{x}}1370 mm.

When there is time, we would like to [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/51 drill workholding holes into the spoilboard].

=== Electrics ===
''(partially outdated - no dedicated CNC room since 2020!)''

''The spindle and the CNC controller (CNC xPro v3) + motors are hooked up to an electrical box on the left wall. You'll find a switch and an outlet for the spindle there. In case of an emergency the whole box can be shut off via one of the two emergency stops (inside the CNC room and on the outside above the access control). Everything except the Raspberry Pi will be turned off in that case.''

The wiring of the CNC Controller board is as follows: 
[[File:CNC_Router_Wiring.jpg|400px]]

The wiring of the electrical box is as follows: 
[[File:CNC_Router_Power_Supply.png|400px]]

=== Dust Extraction ===
We have added a cyclone dust separator between the [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] and the CNC router itself. Thereby, the bulk of the shavings and dust should be collected in an easily emptied box rather than the shop vac's bag.

The part that attaches the dust extraction hose to the router is called a "dust shoe". We are currently using [https://github.com/comakingspace/CommonFiles/tree/master/3DPrintingFiles/WorkbeeCNC this one] designed by [[Patrick]]. The next version should ideally fit the dust extraction hose without an adapter and include a kind of transparent, flexible "skirt" to optimize the airflow.

Other interesting designs:
* https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802301

=== Workflow ===
'''This is just an overview and does NOT replace the [[CNC Router Introduction|personal introduction]]!'''

# create the tool paths in a suitable CAM software (e.g. [[Fusion 360]])
# [[CNC Router Workholding|secure your workpiece]] on the machine's bed
# insert the appropriate collet & bit as defined in your tool paths
# turn the positioning motors on, home the machine and define the workpiece origin
# put on [[PPE|personal protection]] and turn the spindle on
# send the tool paths to the router in real time via the serial interface (USB)
## options can be found under "[[G-Code Senders]]"

 

== Tips & Tricks ==
* to avoid tear-out at the edge of a sensitive workpiece, it may be worthwhile to surround it with some sacrificial material (like [[MDF]]) before routing [https://www.instagram.com/p/BW7hYEjFxP0/]

== Materials ==
(''For more details, see "[[Milling Experiences]]")''

CNC routing is most appropriate for non-metal panels/boards. The exact material might dictate your choice of [[endmill]] or [[Router Bit|router bit]]!

Cutting certain metals, e.g. millable aluminum, may still be possible with a lot of extra work, but a rigid and liquid-cooled [[CNC Mill|CNC mill]] would be the proper way to go.

=== Carbon Fiber ===

[[Material:Carbon Fiber|Carbon fiber]] (CF) dust can be harmful if handled improperly. If you intent to route CF parts on the CNC (like plates for quardrocopter parts) please follow the workflow below:

* Route carbon fiber only in a submerge water path e.g. in a large enough tray (keep enough towels near in case of an 'accident')
** Afterwards filter the water through a coffee filter or similar
* Don't vacuum the dust - instead, wipe it away with a moist towel or use some tape to pick it up
* Only wet sanding
* Keep the parts that came into contact with the carbon fiber dust in a sealed plastic bag until they are discarded
* Discard the remains at a local special waste disposal and don't put them in the garbage!

== Helpful Links ==
* video tutorials:
** [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXagoO_ru-R7ZrK_KgMQm-w/# Ooznest YouTube channel] (pretty new, but specific to our "WorkBee" setup)
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqnvzxuXFTQ Fusion 360 CAM Tutorial for Beginners] by Evan & Katelyn (insert our preferred [[G-Code Senders|G-code sender]] where they use Easel)
* other spaces with (somewhat) similar machines and good approaches/documentation:
** [https://wiki.attraktor.org/CNC-Fr%C3%A4se-III Attraktor e.V.]

* our page on choosing the proper [[feedrate]]

[[Category:CNC Routing]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

CNC Mill

2021-10-17T11:37:42Z

Lars: /* EleksMill */ Added german translation

[[File:milling styrofoam.JPG|right|thumb|300px|milling a piece of [[styrofoam]]]]
A CNC mill is similar to a [[CNC Router|CNC router]], but usually more precise and designed for smaller workpieces.

== EleksMill ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=EleksMill
|image=EleksMill.jpg
|synonyms=DE: CNC-Fräse
|type=[[CNC]] cutting
|material=just [[foam]] for now
|location=[[Common Room|common room]]
|access=upon request
|status=working out initial problems
|firmware=
|software=[[CAD]]/[[CAM]] software (e.g. [[Fusion 360]]); [[G-Code Senders|G-code sender]]
|manual=
|tutors=[[Mitja]]
|used with=1/8" [[endmills]]
|similar=[[CNC Router|CNC router]]
}}
[[Mitja]] brought his [http://eleksmill.eleksmaker.com/ "EleksMill"] into our [[Common Room|common room]] - it's small, but great for learning the basics of CNC [[Milling|milling]]!

=== Important Facts ===
* 130{{x}}90{{x}}40 mm working range (less Z freedom depending on the length of your [[endmill]]!)
* there are '''no endstops'''
** manually home the mill before a job
** you should use the (X/Y center, Z surface) as your origin
** make sure the size of your part does not exceed the working range!
* motor speed: '''???'''
* compatible shaft diameter: 1/8" (3.175 mm)
* controlled like the [[CNC Router|CNC router]] ([[Fusion 360]] or similar [[CAD]]/[[CAM]] software; [[G-Code Senders|G-code sender]])
** connection via USB - bring your own laptop!

=== Workholding ===
The mill has a 150{{x}}98 mm bed containing of 4 T-slots. [[Clamping Claws|clamping claws]] or similar workholders can be attached to it using M5 [[Metric Screws|screws]].

The current solution is not ideal, but many the [[CNC Workholding|workholding options for our larger CNC router]] should also be suitable if scaled down.

=== TO DO ===
* figure out motor speed to calculate proper feedrates
* ''what else?''

=== Past Issues ===
* screws/nuts used to come loose due to vibrations
** fixed with [[loctite]] or counternuts (where possible)
* Z axis used to be too hard to turn => mill drifted deeper and deeper into the workpiece as upwards movements failed but downward movements were still possible
** was caused by a faulty spring

[[Category:CNC]]
[[Category:Milling]]

Handheld Circular Saws

2021-10-17T11:36:25Z

Lars: Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Circular Saws''
|image=Festool_TS 75 EBQ.jpg
|synonyms=buzz saws; DE: Handkreissägen , DE: Handkreissäge
|type=power tool/[[:Category:Saws|saw]]
|location=|access=[[Circular Saw Introduction|circular saw introduction]]
|manual=|material=[[wood]]
|similar=[[Table Saw|table saw]], [[Chop Saw|chop saw]]
|used with=[[Circular Saw Guide|circular saw guide]], [[Shop Vac|shop vac]], [[goggles]], [[Hearing Protection|hearing protection]], [[Circular Saw Blades|circular saw blades]]
}}
This page is about '''handheld''' circular saws. Other varieties exist: a [[Chop Saw|chop saw]] is useful if you want to cut narrow planks or posts, while a [[Table Saw|table saw]] is especially suited for cutting medium-sized boards and panels. Perhaps we'll also build a [[Panel Saw|panel saw]] for large stock at some point!

All circular saws cut with a rotating ''circular'' saw blade that may have teeth or an abrasive edge, depending on what material it is for.
{{#set:
Precaution=P010
|Precaution=W003
}}
== Safety ==
* check the blade guard: does it move freely and cover the blade when you let it go?
* [[Managers|let us know]] when the blade is getting dull!
* wear protective [[goggles]] and [[Ear Defenders|ear defenders]] no matter what you want to cut
* hook up a [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] before cutting
** some sawdust will still be expelled, so you might want to put on a [[Dust Masks|dust mask]]
* safely clamp down a fence and your workpiece to avoid surprises during the cut
* double-check the planned cut path - no clamps or table in the way?
* firmly guide the saw with both hands, that way they're clear of the blade
* turn on the saw without the blade touching the workpiece and only start cutting once it is rotating at full speed

 

== Festool TS 75 EBQ - Plunge Saw ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Festool TS 75 EBQ
|image=Festool_TS 75 EBQ.jpg
|synonyms=plunge saw, plunge-cut saw, track saw; DE: Tauchsäge, DE: Handkreissäge
|type=power tool/[[:Category:Saws|saw]]
|access=upon [[Circular Saw Introduction|circular saw introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1311650/Festool-Ts-75-Ebq.html manualslib.com] (or [https://www.festool.de/produkte/saegen/tauchsaegen/561184---ts-75-ebq#Downloads ZIP from festool.de]
|extrabox=yes
}}

The Festool TS 75 EBQ is a '''plunge saw''', that allows, in addition to normal circular saw functions, to be pushed downwards into the workpiece. The maximal depth is [[MaxSawCutDepthMillimeters::75]] mm and can be adjusted in 1 mm increments.

Make sure to remove the riving knife ''(Spaltkeil)'' before a plunge cut, it will get in the way!

=== Guide Rail ===

[[File:Festool_TS_75_EBQ_kickback_stop.jpg | thumb | 180px |left | Kickback stop]]

The saw can be used with a Festool guide rail for ease of use. Currently we have a single 1400 mm rail, but in the future multiple ones can be joined together to cut any length wished.

To avoid kickback during plunging, an endstop can be attached to the rail. When not in use it is attached to the backside of the saw.

 
=== Available Equipment ===
Besides the saw itself, we currently have:

* cable
* 1400 mm rail
* systainer (aka. fancy Festool box)
* manual
* splinter guard (green thingy with nut and black thing with screw)

=== Further Reading ===
* [https://festoolcdn.azureedge.net/productmedia/Images/attachment/9939f3da-e758-11e4-80ca-005056b31774.pdf ''Grundwissen Tauchsägen'']

 

== Herkules BHK 1600LE "Laser Beam" ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Herkules BHK 1600LE "Laser Beam"
|image=Herkules BHK 1600LE.JPG
|synonyms=buzz saw; DE: Handkreissäge
|type=power tool/[[:Category:Saws|saw]]
|status=broken (cut into power cord!)
|access=[[Circular Saw Introduction|circular saw introduction]]
|location=<strike>[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]</strike>
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]]
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1230277/Einhell-E-Hks.html#manual Einhell HKS-1500 Laser] is very similar
|extrabox=yes
}}
This saw requires '''185/20 mm''' (OD/bore) [[Circular Saw Blades|blades]]; 190 mm blades would most likely still fit but '''we have not tried those yet'''. We have adapters for 30 mm bores as well.

=== Default Configuration ===
Our saw is equipped with a 185/30 mm, 24 tooth TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) wood cutting blade.

 

== Further Reading ==
* WOOD magazine - [https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/sawing-solutions/circular-saw "Get better cuts from any circular saw"]

[[Category:Saws]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Handheld Circular Saws

2021-10-17T11:36:00Z

Lars: /* Festool TS 75 EBQ - Plunge Saw */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=''Circular Saws''
|image=Festool_TS 75 EBQ.jpg
|synonyms=buzz saws; DE: Handkreissägen
|type=power tool/[[:Category:Saws|saw]]
|access=[[Circular Saw Introduction|circular saw introduction]]
|material=[[wood]]
|similar=[[Table Saw|table saw]], [[Chop Saw|chop saw]]
|used with=[[Circular Saw Guide|circular saw guide]], [[Shop Vac|shop vac]], [[goggles]], [[Hearing Protection|hearing protection]], [[Circular Saw Blades|circular saw blades]]
}}
This page is about '''handheld''' circular saws. Other varieties exist: a [[Chop Saw|chop saw]] is useful if you want to cut narrow planks or posts, while a [[Table Saw|table saw]] is especially suited for cutting medium-sized boards and panels. Perhaps we'll also build a [[Panel Saw|panel saw]] for large stock at some point!

All circular saws cut with a rotating ''circular'' saw blade that may have teeth or an abrasive edge, depending on what material it is for.
{{#set:
Precaution=P010
|Precaution=W003
}}
== Safety ==
* check the blade guard: does it move freely and cover the blade when you let it go?
* [[Managers|let us know]] when the blade is getting dull!
* wear protective [[goggles]] and [[Ear Defenders|ear defenders]] no matter what you want to cut
* hook up a [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] before cutting
** some sawdust will still be expelled, so you might want to put on a [[Dust Masks|dust mask]]
* safely clamp down a fence and your workpiece to avoid surprises during the cut
* double-check the planned cut path - no clamps or table in the way?
* firmly guide the saw with both hands, that way they're clear of the blade
* turn on the saw without the blade touching the workpiece and only start cutting once it is rotating at full speed

 

== Festool TS 75 EBQ - Plunge Saw ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Festool TS 75 EBQ
|image=Festool_TS 75 EBQ.jpg
|synonyms=plunge saw, plunge-cut saw, track saw; DE: Tauchsäge, DE: Handkreissäge
|type=power tool/[[:Category:Saws|saw]]
|access=upon [[Circular Saw Introduction|circular saw introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1311650/Festool-Ts-75-Ebq.html manualslib.com] (or [https://www.festool.de/produkte/saegen/tauchsaegen/561184---ts-75-ebq#Downloads ZIP from festool.de]
|extrabox=yes
}}

The Festool TS 75 EBQ is a '''plunge saw''', that allows, in addition to normal circular saw functions, to be pushed downwards into the workpiece. The maximal depth is [[MaxSawCutDepthMillimeters::75]] mm and can be adjusted in 1 mm increments.

Make sure to remove the riving knife ''(Spaltkeil)'' before a plunge cut, it will get in the way!

=== Guide Rail ===

[[File:Festool_TS_75_EBQ_kickback_stop.jpg | thumb | 180px |left | Kickback stop]]

The saw can be used with a Festool guide rail for ease of use. Currently we have a single 1400 mm rail, but in the future multiple ones can be joined together to cut any length wished.

To avoid kickback during plunging, an endstop can be attached to the rail. When not in use it is attached to the backside of the saw.

 
=== Available Equipment ===
Besides the saw itself, we currently have:

* cable
* 1400 mm rail
* systainer (aka. fancy Festool box)
* manual
* splinter guard (green thingy with nut and black thing with screw)

=== Further Reading ===
* [https://festoolcdn.azureedge.net/productmedia/Images/attachment/9939f3da-e758-11e4-80ca-005056b31774.pdf ''Grundwissen Tauchsägen'']

 

== Herkules BHK 1600LE "Laser Beam" ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Herkules BHK 1600LE "Laser Beam"
|image=Herkules BHK 1600LE.JPG
|synonyms=buzz saw; DE: Handkreissäge
|type=power tool/[[:Category:Saws|saw]]
|status=broken (cut into power cord!)
|access=[[Circular Saw Introduction|circular saw introduction]]
|location=<strike>[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]</strike>
|material=[[wood]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]]
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1230277/Einhell-E-Hks.html#manual Einhell HKS-1500 Laser] is very similar
|extrabox=yes
}}
This saw requires '''185/20 mm''' (OD/bore) [[Circular Saw Blades|blades]]; 190 mm blades would most likely still fit but '''we have not tried those yet'''. We have adapters for 30 mm bores as well.

=== Default Configuration ===
Our saw is equipped with a 185/30 mm, 24 tooth TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) wood cutting blade.

 

== Further Reading ==
* WOOD magazine - [https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/sawing-solutions/circular-saw "Get better cuts from any circular saw"]

[[Category:Saws]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

Bench Grinders

2021-10-17T11:32:39Z

Lars: /* Triton TWSS10 */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bench Grinders
|image=
|extrabox=yes (= not used in SMW gallery)
|synonyms=''bench top grinders, grinding wheels; DE: Schleifmaschinen''
|type=power [[sharpening]] tool
|access=[[Bench Grinder Introduction|bench grinder introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]
|material=[[metal]] (not [[aluminum]])
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|similar=[[Disc Grinder|disc grinder]], [[files]], [[sandpaper]]
|manual=
}}
== Safety ==
As the bench grinder is not only a power tool but one with openly accessible spinning parts, precautions need to be made. Have a [[tutor]] show the machine to you before touching it!
* never wear gloves and/or scarves, roll up long sleeves and tie back long hair so nothing gets caught
* always wear [[Personal Protection|personal protection]], especially safety goggles and if necessary some ear defenders and a dust mask

== Usage ==
* after plugging the grinder in, turn it on and '''wait until it reaches its final speed'''
* if you hear any rattling or other funny noises turn it off '''immediately''' and check whether something is loose or whether tiny parts are inside of the casing
* grind whatever you want to grind by holding it against the stone wheel; make sure the piece is supported either by the little table in front of the wheel or some other structure
* do not force your workpiece onto the wheel as that will produce a lot of heat; cooling your piece from time to time is always a good idea

=== [[Sharpening]] ===
* approach the spinning wheel slowly so your workpiece doesn't catch on it!
* when sharpening hardened steel make sure to keep the blade cool, otherwise previous hardening may be undone!
* it's a good idea to press the blade firmly against the support to keep a consistent blade alignment
* check the squareness of the blade often to be able to make corrections
* keep in mind that the grinder itself is only for roughing out the blade geometry, for a truly sharp blade you definitely need to work with some [[wetstones]] afterwards

== Brüder Mannesmann M1225-125 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Brüder Mannesmann M1225-125
|image=bench grinder.JPG
|synonyms=bench top grinder, grinding wheel; DE: Doppelschleifer, Schleifbock, ''Trockenschleifmaschine''
|type=power [[sharpening]] tool
|access=[[Bench Grinder Introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]
|material=[[metal]] (not [[aluminum]])
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|similar=[[Disc Grinder|disc grinder]], [[files]], [[sandpaper]]
|manual=[http://files.voelkner.de/800000-824999/823939-an-01-de-Doppelschleifer_125mm.pdf Völkner.de]
}}
This bench grinder from 1996 is used but still in decent condition; the wheels run true and quietly. The grinder is equipped with two different stone wheels with different grits (35 & 60); one for heavy-duty and quick material removal, one for a finer and more precise material removal that will leave a way nicer surface finish.

=== Maintenance ===
The wheels need to be "dressed" from time to time in order to produce nice straight edges and maintain stability. Apparently, it's possible to do that with nothing more than a few [[Spring Washers|spring washers]] on a piece of [[Threaded Rod|threaded rod]]![https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEs7vjw8FIY] We should try this before spending time and money on a more sophisticated tool.

==== Changing Wheels ====
After installing a new grinding wheel, set up a safety perimeter (let's say everyone leaves the room) and let the grinder run for five minutes. Only if that went well, without suspicious noises or visible signs of problems, should the grinder be used again.

=== Upgrade Ideas ===
For '''really''' sharp knives, we could turn an [[MDF]] wheel on the [[Wood Lathe|wood lathe]] and use that as the final "grit".

 
== Triton TWSS10 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Triton TWSS10
|image=Triton TWSS10.jpg
|extrabox=yup
|synonyms=wet grinder, whetstone sharpener, dual-purpose wet grinder/stropping wheel; DE: Nassschleifmaschine, DE: Schleifmaschine
|type=power [[sharpening]] tool
|access=[[Bench Grinder Introduction|bench grinder introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]
|material=[[metal]] (not [[aluminum]])
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|similar=[[Disc Grinder|disc grinder]], [[files]], [[sandpaper]]
|manual=[http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=InstructionManual&size=&name=949257_MANUAL.PDF Instruction Manual] [http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=ExplodedDiagram&size=&name=TWSS10.pdf Explosion Diagram] [http://www.tritontools.com/en-ZA/ProductSalesSheetPDF?MainCategory=Bench%20Top&SubCategory=Bench%20Top&ModelName=TWSS10 Product Sheet]
}}
The Triton TWSS10 provides a stone for wet grinding and a leather stropping wheel. Please ensure you ''always'' empty the water and loosen the torque screw when you are done!

This grinder is slow moving and intended for the final sharpening passes, not gor quick material removal. It has a 220 grit "diamond wheel" (with a water bath) and a leather honing wheel. It may be nice to add a [https://www.instructables.com/id/Wet-Grinder-Swivel-Base/ swiveling base] under it so you don't need to pick up the machine to switch directions!

There are quite a few accessories available from the manufacturer. You can find them in the manual (page 8) as well as on the [http://www.tritontools.com/en-ZA/Product/Bench%20Top/Bench%20Top/TWSS10 product page].

We should document individual accessories as we get (or 3D print) them.

=== Straight Edge Jig ===
We have a [http://www.tritontools.com/en-ZA/Product/Accessories/Wetstone%20Sharpener%20Accessories/TWSSEJ straight edge jig] for flat irons like [[Bevel Edge Chisels|bevel edge chisels]] or [[plane]] blades.

[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Sharpening]]

Bench Grinders

2021-10-17T11:32:16Z

Lars: /* Brüder Mannesmann M1225-125 */ Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bench Grinders
|image=
|extrabox=yes (= not used in SMW gallery)
|synonyms=''bench top grinders, grinding wheels; DE: Schleifmaschinen''
|type=power [[sharpening]] tool
|access=[[Bench Grinder Introduction|bench grinder introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]
|material=[[metal]] (not [[aluminum]])
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
|similar=[[Disc Grinder|disc grinder]], [[files]], [[sandpaper]]
|manual=
}}
== Safety ==
As the bench grinder is not only a power tool but one with openly accessible spinning parts, precautions need to be made. Have a [[tutor]] show the machine to you before touching it!
* never wear gloves and/or scarves, roll up long sleeves and tie back long hair so nothing gets caught
* always wear [[Personal Protection|personal protection]], especially safety goggles and if necessary some ear defenders and a dust mask

== Usage ==
* after plugging the grinder in, turn it on and '''wait until it reaches its final speed'''
* if you hear any rattling or other funny noises turn it off '''immediately''' and check whether something is loose or whether tiny parts are inside of the casing
* grind whatever you want to grind by holding it against the stone wheel; make sure the piece is supported either by the little table in front of the wheel or some other structure
* do not force your workpiece onto the wheel as that will produce a lot of heat; cooling your piece from time to time is always a good idea

=== [[Sharpening]] ===
* approach the spinning wheel slowly so your workpiece doesn't catch on it!
* when sharpening hardened steel make sure to keep the blade cool, otherwise previous hardening may be undone!
* it's a good idea to press the blade firmly against the support to keep a consistent blade alignment
* check the squareness of the blade often to be able to make corrections
* keep in mind that the grinder itself is only for roughing out the blade geometry, for a truly sharp blade you definitely need to work with some [[wetstones]] afterwards

== Brüder Mannesmann M1225-125 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Brüder Mannesmann M1225-125
|image=bench grinder.JPG
|synonyms=bench top grinder, grinding wheel; DE: Doppelschleifer, DE: Schleifbock, DE: Trockenschleifmaschine, DE: Schleifmaschine
|type=power [[sharpening]] tool
|access=[[Bench Grinder Introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]
|material=[[metal]] (not [[aluminum]])
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|similar=[[Disc Grinder|disc grinder]], [[files]], [[sandpaper]]
|manual=[http://files.voelkner.de/800000-824999/823939-an-01-de-Doppelschleifer_125mm.pdf Völkner.de]
}}
This bench grinder from 1996 is used but still in decent condition; the wheels run true and quietly. The grinder is equipped with two different stone wheels with different grits (35 & 60); one for heavy-duty and quick material removal, one for a finer and more precise material removal that will leave a way nicer surface finish.

=== Maintenance ===
The wheels need to be "dressed" from time to time in order to produce nice straight edges and maintain stability. Apparently, it's possible to do that with nothing more than a few [[Spring Washers|spring washers]] on a piece of [[Threaded Rod|threaded rod]]![https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEs7vjw8FIY] We should try this before spending time and money on a more sophisticated tool.

==== Changing Wheels ====
After installing a new grinding wheel, set up a safety perimeter (let's say everyone leaves the room) and let the grinder run for five minutes. Only if that went well, without suspicious noises or visible signs of problems, should the grinder be used again.

=== Upgrade Ideas ===
For '''really''' sharp knives, we could turn an [[MDF]] wheel on the [[Wood Lathe|wood lathe]] and use that as the final "grit".

 
== Triton TWSS10 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Triton TWSS10
|image=Triton TWSS10.jpg
|extrabox=yup
|synonyms=wet grinder, whetstone sharpener, dual-purpose wet grinder/stropping wheel; DE: Nassschleifmaschine
|type=power [[sharpening]] tool
|access=[[Bench Grinder Introduction|bench grinder introduction]]
|location=[[Location::Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]
|material=[[metal]] (not [[aluminum]])
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]]
|similar=[[Disc Grinder|disc grinder]], [[files]], [[sandpaper]]
|manual=[http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=InstructionManual&size=&name=949257_MANUAL.PDF Instruction Manual] [http://www.tritontools.com/Helpers/GetImage.ashx?type=ExplodedDiagram&size=&name=TWSS10.pdf Explosion Diagram] [http://www.tritontools.com/en-ZA/ProductSalesSheetPDF?MainCategory=Bench%20Top&SubCategory=Bench%20Top&ModelName=TWSS10 Product Sheet]
}}
The Triton TWSS10 provides a stone for wet grinding and a leather stropping wheel. Please ensure you ''always'' empty the water and loosen the torque screw when you are done!

This grinder is slow moving and intended for the final sharpening passes, not gor quick material removal. It has a 220 grit "diamond wheel" (with a water bath) and a leather honing wheel. It may be nice to add a [https://www.instructables.com/id/Wet-Grinder-Swivel-Base/ swiveling base] under it so you don't need to pick up the machine to switch directions!

There are quite a few accessories available from the manufacturer. You can find them in the manual (page 8) as well as on the [http://www.tritontools.com/en-ZA/Product/Bench%20Top/Bench%20Top/TWSS10 product page].

We should document individual accessories as we get (or 3D print) them.

=== Straight Edge Jig ===
We have a [http://www.tritontools.com/en-ZA/Product/Accessories/Wetstone%20Sharpener%20Accessories/TWSSEJ straight edge jig] for flat irons like [[Bevel Edge Chisels|bevel edge chisels]] or [[plane]] blades.

[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Sharpening]]

CMI C-S-BS 250

2021-10-17T11:30:44Z

Lars: Added german translation

== CMI C-S-BS 250 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=CMI C-S-BS 250
|image=CMI_C_S_BS_250.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Bandsäge
|type=power [[saw]]
|material=[[wood]], [[metal]] (depending on blade)
|used with=1400 mm [[Bandsaw Blades|bandsaw blades]]
|location= [[Location::Metal Workshop|metal workshop]]
|access=[[Bandsaw Introduction|bandsaw introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=nearly identical: [https://www.westfalia-versand.at/service/dat_down.php?datei_id=129742&usg=AOvVaw3sTFdt-PG9b8-ZyYRiJYsb Westfalia RBS 205]
|donation=
|similar=[[Scroll Saw|scroll saw]]
}}
This small bandsaw does not have much power, but is nice for learning the basics and in case you just need to make some curvy or cold cuts through soft metals.

The blade guides are very simple, just consisting of two pins for the sides and a bearing for the back of the blade. [[User:Ignaz|Ignaz]] is going to [[turn]] an eccentric bearing mount to increase their lifetime (by default, the blade runs too close to the center of the bearing).

Please refer to the proper blade-guide distances explained in our [[Bandsaw Introduction|bandsaw introduction]], NOT the ones from the manual!

Specs:
* blade length - 1400 mm
* max. blade width - ???
* max. blade thickness - 0.36 mm [https://www.shopbox24.de/werkzeugstahl-premium-saegeband-1400-mm-x-6-mm-x-0-36-mm-x-14-zaehne-pro-zoll-fuer-weiche-metalle-wie-bronze-kupfer-und-aluminium/a-58501/]
* max. cutting depth - 80 mm

{{#set:
Machinetype=Bandsaw
}}

Metabo BS 1638 W

2021-10-17T11:30:04Z

Lars: Added german translation

== Metabo BS 1638 W ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Metabo BS 1638 W
|image=Metabo BS 1638 W.jpg
|synonyms=DE: Bandsäge|type=|material=[[wood]]
|used with=2225 mm [[Bandsaw Blades|bandsaw blades]]; [[Bandsaw Fence|bandsaw fence]], [[Bandsaw Sled|bandsaw sled]]
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|access=[[Bandsaw Introduction|bandsaw introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=identical(?): [https://www.libble.de/metabo-bas-380/p/187716/ Metabo BAS 380 (libble.de)]
}}
The Metabo BS 1638 W (you can probably drop the "W" when searching for accessories) is a three-wheeled bandsaw for 2225 mm [[Bandsaw Blades|bandsaw blades]].

DO NOT use the integrated disc sander! A proper [Disc Sander|disc sander] needs a table against kickback, and it's generally a bad idea to use the blade as a mere driving belt...

The saw was missing a parallel fence but Manu built one that should be fine for most uses, please [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/69 help us out] if you would like to improve and document it further!

=== Specifications ===
''more details in the [https://www.libble.de/metabo-bas-380/p/187716/ manual]!''
* cutting height: 160 mm
* throat clearance ''(Ausladung)'': 380 mm
* max. workpiece weight: 15 kg

[[File:timber on bandsaw.JPG|thumb|left|300px|this saw can easily cut through quite thick pieces, such as this part of a log]]

{{#set:
Machinetype=Bandsaw
}}

Vertical Bandsaws

2021-10-17T11:29:29Z

Lars: Added german translation

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Bandsaws
|image=Timber on bandsaw.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Bandsägen, DE: Bandsäge
|type=power [[saw]]
|material=depends on the blade - see individual machines
|location=|access=[[Bandsaw Introduction|bandsaw introduction]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]]
|manual=|similar=[[Scroll Saw|scroll saw]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
We got two bandsaws from our awesome members!

There is a larger bandsaw for [[wood]] and a smaller one for [[metal]].

==Interesting Resources==
*[http://www.doebeli.ch/Files/pdf_inca_handbuecher/arbeiten_mit_bandsaegen.pdf ''"Arbeiten mit Bandsägen" slideshow'' (DE)]
*[https://www.bghm.de/fileadmin/user_upload/Arbeitsschuetzer/Praxishilfen/Unterweisungshilfen/BG_5.3.3_Tischbandsaegemaschinen.pdf ''Sicheres Arbeiten an Tischbandsägemaschinen'' (DE)]
*[https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/039-arbeiten-an-bandsaegemaschinen/?L=0 ''Arbeitsschutz kompakt Nr. 039 "Arbeiten an Bandsägemaschinen"'' (DE)]
*[https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/063-arbeiten-an-metallbandsaegen/?L=0 ''Arbeitsschutz kompakt Nr. 039 "Arbeiten an Metallbandsägen"'' (DE)]
*[https://www.1-2-do.com/wissen/Bands%C3%A4ge_richtig_einstellen ''Bandsäge richtig einstellen'' (DE)]

{{#ask:
[[Machinetype::Bandsaw]]
|order=descending
|format=embedded
|embedonly=yes
}}

 
==Project Ideas==
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtSPLmQicUU boxes with "seamless" drawers]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HPvcLBSEfY scoops]

[[Category:Metalworking]]
[[Category:Saws]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]

2D Scanner

2021-10-17T11:27:40Z

Lars: Added german translation

== HP scanjet 5500c ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=HP scanjet 5500c
|image=
|synonyms=DE: Flachbettscanner
|type=[[Print Media|print media]] device
|material=
|location=[[Location::Common Room|common room]]
|access=
|status=
|firmware=
|software=
|manual=
|tutors=
|used with=[[computers]]
|similar=
}}
If you want to install the scanner download the exe https://support.hp.com/de-de/drivers/selfservice/HP-Scanjet-5000-Scanner-series/77360/model/77362 (the Windows XP driver works for Windows 10)

Waiting Lists

2020-12-14T19:39:35Z

Lars: /* Jointer-Planer Introduction */

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]] ==

Tutors:{{#show: Prusa_i3_MK2S
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ed Green|Ed]]
* [[User:Karel|Karel]]
* ''<add yourself here!>''

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Welding_Transformer
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: to be confirmed

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Drew|Drew]]
* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Blacksheep|Micha]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:Karel|Karel]]

==[[Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Bandsaw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Micha]]
*[[User:Ploenk]]
* [[User:Karel|Karel]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors:Tutors: {{#show: Chop_Saw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: ~1h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Karel|Karel]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: CNC_Router
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h
Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:F.Huchinson|F.Huchinson]]
* [[User:Leo|Leo]]
* [[User:Hanna|Hanna]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:Karel|Karel]]
* [[User:St3ffi|Steffi]]
* [[User:SchreinerGMZ|Alex]]
* [[User:Gregor|Gregor]]
* [[User:Ed_Green]]

== [[Compressor Introduction]] ==
Tutors:{{#show: Compressor
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}Time Requires: To be determined

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[Luzian]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:Karel|Karel]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:St3ffi|Steffi]]
* [[User:SchreinerGMZ|Alex]]

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld_Router
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: To be determined

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Ali]]
*[[User:F.Huchinson]]
*[[User:Drew]]
*[[User:SchreinerGMZ|Alex]]

== [[Jointer-Planer Introduction]] ==
Tutors:Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60min + 30min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[eileen]]
* [[User:Blacksheep|Micha]]
* [[User:Karel|Karel]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]]
* [[User:Gregor|Gregor]]
* [[User:Keno|Keno]]
* [[User:Narquadah|Kim]]
* [[User:SchreinerGMZ|Alex]]

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser_Cutter
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Korbi|Korbi]]
* [[User:Blacksheep|Micha]]
* [[User:Mfisch3r|Markus]]
* [[User:St3ffi|Steffi]]
* [[User:Gregor|Gregor]]

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors:Tutors:Tutors: {{#show: Metal_Lathes
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: To be determined

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
* [[User:Anton|Anton]]
* [[User:Leo|Leo]]
* [[User:Drew|Drew]]
* [[User:Lmnl99|Luca]]
* [[User:Blacksheep|Micha]]
* [[User:Karel|Karel]]

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors:Tutors:Tutors:Tutors: {{#show: Table_Saw
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: To be determined

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:SchreinerGMZ|Alex]]

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Wood_Lathe
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: To be determined

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Utis]]
* [[User:SchreinerGMZ|Alex]]
* [[User:Karel|Karel]]

''[[Template:Waiting Page]] automatically adds pages to this category :-)''

Jointer-Planer Introduction

2020-09-14T08:42:44Z

Lars: /* Demonstration */

{{incomplete}}

----
This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Jointer-Planer|jointer-planer]] combination machine - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual ([http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)])

This is one of those machines that can cause very serious injuries when something goes wrong, so '''do not use if you are alone in the Space'''.

== Safety for usage in jointer and planer mode ==

[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - no gloves.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]]

Additional protection for toxic or allergic hardwoods (specifically ''beech'' and ''oak'') or for certain surface finishes or chemicals: [[File:ISO_7010_M016.svg|50px]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| [[File:Not alone.svg|left|100px]] '''Risk of serious injury''' ||
This is a dangerous machine with a risk of '''serious injury'''. '''NEVER use this machine when you are alone in the space!'''
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_draw-in.svg|left|50px]] rapidly revolving knives ||
* you MUST NOT wear gloves, loose clothes, dangling jewellery or open long hair
|-
| [[File:ISO_7010_M003.svg|50px]] loud machine (>90db) ||
* you MUST wear ear protection
|-
| [[File:ISO_7010_M004.svg|50px]] flying splinters ||
* you MUST wear eye protection
|-
| [[File:ISO_7010_M016.svg|50px]] toxic dust (beech, oak, surface finishes) ||
* if your workpiece is contaminated with chemicals ''or'' is made from beech (dt. Buche), oak (Eiche) or other hard woods, you SHOULD use a dust mask of P2 or higher. ALWAYS use the dust extraction system.
|}

=== Additional Security when using as a jointer ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_draw-in.svg|left|50px]] rapidly revolving knives - exposed at the top: draw-in and cutting danger ||
* you MUST use the blade guard - only expose as much of the blade as needed
* you MUST use [[Push Block|push blocks]] on any workpiece that is not large enough for your to hold down with your hands without any part of your hand overhanging the workpiece
* you SHOULD use [[Push Block|push blocks]] - ONLY IF you are unable to use a push block:
** you are risking your fingers being pulled into the rotating blades and dismembering them
** you MUST keep your hands flat and fingers together
** you MUST keep your hands ON the workpiece - NEVER hold or push the workpiece from the sides, NEVER let your hands move over any part of the workpiece
|-
| [[File:Kickback.png|left|50px]] kickback: the jointer may grab the workpiece and throw it back to the infeed side ||
* you MUST stand firmly on the long side of the machine, light downward pressure on the whole workpiece, and ''without walking'' during operation
* you MUST ensure that the infeed side is clear of people
* you MUST stop immediately if other people step into the infeed area
* you MUST inspect your workpiece for difficult areas in advance - knots are tricky enough but loose knots MUST be removed beforehand!
* you MUST start with a low cutting depth of <=1mm
** you MAY increase the depth to <=2mm - the higher the cutting depth, the higher the force, the more violent a possible kickback
* you MUST check the anti-kickback teeth for free movement before using the jointer
|}

=== Additional Security when using as a planer ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_draw-in.svg|left|50px]] rapidly revolving knives ||
* you MUST NOT put your hands near the top planer housing during operation
|-
| [[File:Kickback.png|left|50px]] kickback: the transport mechanism may fail and fire the workpiece out ||
* you MUST ensure, that no one can be hit should this occur
|}

== Demonstration ==

The tutor will show you these steps in detail.

==== Preparation ====

[[File:Planer cut order diagram.jpg|right|frameless|400px|Cutting order to square a piece of wood]]

* all sides of your workpiece must have a width of at most 300mm - while the jointer can take a few millimeters more, the planer won't.
* inspect your workpiece for loose parts - especially knots
* check yourself for anything that might be catched in the machine - wrist watch, finger rings, bracelets, jewellery, cables, sleeves, hair, ...
* check that the surroundings of the machine are clear of debris and no one is in danger of being hit by a kickback
* switch to jointer mode, if it's currently in planer mode - cf. manual: 8.8
* check that the vacuum hose is connected securely on the jointer
* check that the vacuum power button is "on" (it will be triggered when the jointer is started)

==== Planning the joint ====

# Identify the wood grain for the proper feed direction - you MUST work ''with'' the grain (trying to joint 90° to the grain will always result in chipout at the end)
# Choose the correct large face for the first planing (the ''hollow / concave'' side, not the ''arched / convex'' side) - mark side as 1)
# Choose one of the connected smaller sides to make 90° to side 1) in the same way - mark as side 2)
# The side opposed to side 2) is side 3) - this side will be made parallel on the [[Table_Saw|table saw]] (for more rectangular parts like boards) or by ''planing'' (for square-shaped parts)
# Last, the side opposite to side 1) is side 4 and will be made parallel by ''planing''

So, the correct order is: (1) large face, (2) 90° of first ''small'' face, (3) parallelize the second ''small'' face, (4) parallelize the second ''large'' face

==== (1) Plane the first large face ====

* adjust the jointer chipload ''(Spanabnahme)'' to 1mm - manual: 8.2
* adjusting the jointer blade guard ''(Brückenschutz/Schutzbrücke)''
** the guard should be covering the ''full'' width of the blade and ''just above'' the workpiece
* stand centered, ensure no one is in risk of getting hit by kickback, activate machine
* workpiece is moved with even pressure over the table, hands slide over the guard and "walk" on the outfeed table
* check face and repeat until plane
* cf. manual: 9.4.4 & 9.4.5

==== (2) Straighten the first small face ====

* check the fence for 90° against the table - cf. manual 8.4
* adjust the guard to be directly on the table (no height)
* adjust the guard to leave a small gap for the workpiece to ride through
* stand centered, ensure no one is in risk of getting hit by kickback, activate machine
* workpiece is moved with even pressure over the table, pressure against the fence and downwards on the table - fingers together, hands stay clear of the blades
* repeat until face is plane and right-angled to side 1 (check the whole face with a square)
* cf. manual: 9.4.6


==== (3) Parallelize the second small face ====

If your workpiece is more rectangular-shaped than square-shaped, you SHOULD use the [[Table_Saw|table saw]] instead of the planer. The [[Table_Saw|table saw]] is much quicker, you can adjust the width to the desired measurement (without creating tons of wood dust), it's much cleaner (because the suction does not work when the planed edge is too small and the table is too far away).

The planer also has a maximum height of 22.5cm - if your workpiece is broader, you MUST use the table saw instead.

If your workpiece is too narrow to be safely inserted with a 90° angle to side 2, you MUST use the table saw instead.

* switch machine to planer mode - cf. manual: 8.7
* measure the wood piece's width broadest point
* adjust the table height to the measured width (open table lock, use wheel to adjust height, close lock) - cf. manual: 8.5
* activate the transport, if necessary
* stand beside the planer infeed, ensure no one is in risk of getting hit by kickback, activate machine
* push the workpiece in, until it's gripped from the transport - let go and move to the other side and take over the workpiece. Stay clear of the jointer system with your hands at all times!
** The first transport roll is a bit hard to overcome, if you try to take away more than 1mm.
** If the workpiece feels stuck and does not move forward or back (due to the automatic kickback protection), deactivate the machine and lower the table to unstuck it.
** avoid the edges of the small grooves in the side - your workpiece might bump upwards or get stuck, if it reaches over the grooves.
* lower the height by <=2mm for smaller faces and <=1mm for larger faces
* repeat, until the side is flat

==== (4) Parallelize the second large face ====

Repeat everything as seen in the third step for the last side - remember to take off <=1mm in each pass.

==== (5) Cleanup ====

* clean the whole machine and surroundings from wood splinters and dust
* clean the tables from wood resin with alcohol
* check the vacuum: if the bag is more than 3/4th full, replace vacuum bag. Close full bag with garn (located at the measuring station) and move to the central box for wood collection. A new bag is on top of the measuring station.
* switch machine to jointer mode

== Advanced Usage / topics ==

* adjusting the jointer ''Fuge'' - manual: 8.3
** rarely needed! return to original (described) setting if altered?
** a very slight ''Hohlfuge'' is desirable for many glue-ups: you'll need fewer clamps and the ends of your boards will always connect in a panel [https://www.dds-online.de/technik/maschinen-anlagen/das-einfache-vereinfacht/]
** to test the result: let two jointed boards face each other - you will thus amplify the extent of curve (x2) to make it more visible [http://www.holzwerken.net/Wissen/Tipps-Tricks/Tischlern/Die-Abrichte-korrekt-einstellen-Weder-spitz-noch-hohl]
* angling two sides to another angle than 90°

helpful links besides the manual:
* [https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/034-arbeiten-an-abrichthobelmaschinen ''BGHM Arbeitsschutz kompakt: Arbeiten an Abrichthobelmaschinen'']
* [https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/041-arbeiten-an-dickenhobelmaschinen/ ''BGHM Arbeitsschutz kompakt: Arbeiten an Dickenhobelmaschinen'']
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhnIqY3Fqqg&t=4m59s ''video by Heiko Rech (DE)''] with important safety information we can use to define the introduction
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDA9URpiYus ''video by MHM (DE)''] longer safety and usage instruction

[[Category:Introductions]]

Jointer-Planer Introduction

2020-09-13T17:47:44Z

Lars: some clarifications

{{incomplete}}

----
This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Jointer-Planer|jointer-planer]] combination machine - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual ([http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)])

This is one of those machines that can cause very serious injuries when something goes wrong, so '''do not use if you are alone in the Space'''.

== Safety for usage in jointer and planer mode ==

[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - no gloves.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]]

Additional protection for toxic or allergic hardwoods (specifically ''beech'' and ''oak'') or for certain surface finishes or chemicals: [[File:ISO_7010_M016.svg|50px]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| [[File:Not alone.svg|left|100px]] '''Risk of serious injury''' ||
This is a dangerous machine with a risk of '''serious injury'''. '''NEVER use this machine when you are alone in the space!'''
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_draw-in.svg|left|50px]] rapidly revolving knives ||
* you MUST NOT wear gloves, loose clothes, dangling jewellery or open long hair
|-
| [[File:ISO_7010_M003.svg|50px]] loud machine (>90db) ||
* you MUST wear ear protection
|-
| [[File:ISO_7010_M004.svg|50px]] flying splinters ||
* you MUST wear eye protection
|-
| [[File:ISO_7010_M016.svg|50px]] toxic dust (beech, oak, surface finishes) ||
* if your workpiece is contaminated with chemicals ''or'' is made from beech (dt. Buche), oak (Eiche) or other hard woods, you SHOULD use a dust mask of P2 or higher. ALWAYS use the dust extraction system.
|}

=== Additional Security when using as a jointer ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_draw-in.svg|left|50px]] rapidly revolving knives - exposed at the top: draw-in and cutting danger ||
* you MUST use the blade guard - only expose as much of the blade as needed
* you MUST use [[Push Block|push blocks]] on any workpiece that is not large enough for your to hold down with your hands without any part of your hand overhanging the workpiece
* you SHOULD use [[Push Block|push blocks]] - ONLY IF you are unable to use a push block:
** you are risking your fingers being pulled into the rotating blades and dismembering them
** you MUST keep your hands flat and fingers together
** you MUST keep your hands ON the workpiece - NEVER hold or push the workpiece from the sides, NEVER let your hands move over any part of the workpiece
|-
| [[File:Kickback.png|left|50px]] kickback: the jointer may grab the workpiece and throw it back to the infeed side ||
* you MUST stand firmly on the long side of the machine, light downward pressure on the whole workpiece, and ''without walking'' during operation
* you MUST ensure that the infeed side is clear of people
* you MUST stop immediately if other people step into the infeed area
* you MUST inspect your workpiece for difficult areas in advance - knots are tricky enough but loose knots MUST be removed beforehand!
* you MUST start with a low cutting depth of <=1mm
** you MAY increase the depth to <=2mm - the higher the cutting depth, the higher the force, the more violent a possible kickback
* you MUST check the anti-kickback teeth for free movement before using the jointer
|}

=== Additional Security when using as a planer ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_draw-in.svg|left|50px]] rapidly revolving knives ||
* you MUST NOT put your hands near the top planer housing during operation
|-
| [[File:Kickback.png|left|50px]] kickback: the transport mechanism may fail and fire the workpiece out ||
* you MUST ensure, that no one can be hit should this occur
|}

== Demonstration ==

The tutor will show you these steps in detail.

==== Preparation ====

[[File:Planer cut order diagram.jpg|right|frameless|400px|Cutting order to square a piece of wood]]

* all sides of your workpiece must have a width of at most 300mm - while the jointer can take a few millimeters more, the planer won't.
* inspect your workpiece for loose parts - especially knots
* check yourself for anything that might be catched in the machine - wrist watch, finger rings, bracelets, jewellery, cables, sleeves, hair, ...
* check that the surroundings of the machine are clear of debris and no one is in danger of being hit by a kickback
* switch to jointer mode, if it's currently in planer mode - cf. manual: 8.8

==== Planning the joint ====

# Identify the wood grain for the proper feed direction - you MUST work ''with'' the grain (trying to joint 90° to the grain will always result in chipout at the end)
# Choose the correct large face for the first planing (the ''hollow / concave'' side, not the ''arched / convex'' side) - mark side as 1)
# Choose one of the connected smaller sides to make 90° to side 1) in the same way - mark as side 2)
# The side opposed to side 2) is side 3) - this side will be made parallel on the [[Table_Saw|table saw]] (for more rectangular parts like boards) or by ''planing'' (for square-shaped parts)
# Last, the side opposite to side 1) is side 4 and will be made parallel by ''planing''

So, the correct order is: (1) large face, (2) 90° of first ''small'' face, (3) parallelize the second ''small'' face, (4) parallelize the second ''large'' face

==== (1) Plane the first large face ====

* adjust the jointer chipload ''(Spanabnahme)'' to 1mm - manual: 8.2
* adjusting the jointer blade guard ''(Brückenschutz/Schutzbrücke)''
** the guard should be covering the ''full'' width of the blade and ''just above'' the workpiece
* stand centered, ensure no one is in risk of getting hit by kickback, activate machine
* workpiece is moved with even pressure over the table, hands slide over the guard and "walk" on the outfeed table
* check face and repeat until plane
* cf. manual: 9.4.4 & 9.4.5

==== (2) Straighten the first small face ====

* check the fence for 90° against the table - cf. manual 8.4
* adjust the guard to be directly on the table (no height)
* adjust the guard to leave a small gap for the workpiece to ride through
* stand centered, ensure no one is in risk of getting hit by kickback, activate machine
* workpiece is moved with even pressure over the table, pressure against the fence and downwards on the table - fingers together, hands stay clear of the blades
* repeat until face is plane and right-angled to side 1 (check the whole face with a square)
* cf. manual: 9.4.6


==== (3) Parallelize the second small face ====

If your workpiece is more rectangular-shaped than square-shaped, you SHOULD use the [[Table_Saw|table saw]] instead of the planer. The [[Table_Saw|table saw]] is much quicker, you can adjust the width to the desired measurement (without creating tons of wood dust), it's much cleaner (because the suction does not work when the planed edge is too small and the table is too far away).

The planer also has a maximum height of 22.5cm - if your workpiece is broader, you MUST use the table saw instead.

If your workpiece is too narrow to be safely inserted with a 90° angle to side 2, you MUST use the table saw instead.

* switch machine to planer mode - cf. manual: 8.7
* measure the wood piece's width broadest point
* adjust the table height to the measured width (open table lock, use wheel to adjust height, close lock) - cf. manual: 8.5
* activate the transport, if necessary
* stand beside the planer infeed, ensure no one is in risk of getting hit by kickback, activate machine
* push the workpiece in, until it's gripped from the transport - let go and move to the other side and take over the workpiece. Stay clear of the jointer system with your hands at all times!
** The first transport roll is a bit hard to overcome, if you try to take away more than 1mm.
** If the workpiece feels stuck and does not move forward or back (due to the automatic kickback protection), deactivate the machine and lower the table to unstuck it.
** avoid the edges of the small grooves in the side - your workpiece might bump upwards or get stuck, if it reaches over the grooves.
* lower the height by <=2mm for smaller faces and <=1mm for larger faces
* repeat, until the side is flat

==== (4) Parallelize the second large face ====

Repeat everything as seen in the third step for the last side - remember to take off <=1mm in each pass.

==== (5) Cleanup ====

* clean the whole machine and surroundings from wood splinters and dust
* clean the tables from wood resin with alcohol
* check the vacuum: if the bag is more than 3/4th full, replace vacuum bag. Close full bag with garn (located at the measuring station) and move to the central box for wood collection. A new bag is on top of the measuring station.
* switch machine to jointer mode

== Advanced Usage / topics ==

* adjusting the jointer ''Fuge'' - manual: 8.3
** rarely needed! return to original (described) setting if altered?
** a very slight ''Hohlfuge'' is desirable for many glue-ups: you'll need fewer clamps and the ends of your boards will always connect in a panel [https://www.dds-online.de/technik/maschinen-anlagen/das-einfache-vereinfacht/]
** to test the result: let two jointed boards face each other - you will thus amplify the extent of curve (x2) to make it more visible [http://www.holzwerken.net/Wissen/Tipps-Tricks/Tischlern/Die-Abrichte-korrekt-einstellen-Weder-spitz-noch-hohl]
* angling two sides to another angle than 90°

helpful links besides the manual:
* [https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/034-arbeiten-an-abrichthobelmaschinen ''BGHM Arbeitsschutz kompakt: Arbeiten an Abrichthobelmaschinen'']
* [https://www.bghm.de/arbeitsschuetzer/praxishilfen/arbeitsschutz-kompakt/041-arbeiten-an-dickenhobelmaschinen/ ''BGHM Arbeitsschutz kompakt: Arbeiten an Dickenhobelmaschinen'']
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhnIqY3Fqqg&t=4m59s ''video by Heiko Rech (DE)''] with important safety information we can use to define the introduction
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDA9URpiYus ''video by MHM (DE)''] longer safety and usage instruction

[[Category:Introductions]]

Jointer-Planer

2020-09-12T10:12:47Z

Lars:

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Hammer A3-31
|image=
|synonyms=planer-thicknesser, power jointer, thickness planer; DE: Abricht- und Dickenhobelmaschine, "Abrichte", "Dickte"
|type=
|status=in [[commissioning]]
|access=
|location=in transit
|material=naturally structured [[wood]] (not more [[Engineered Woods|engineered]] than [[Glulam|glued laminated timber]]!)
|tutors=
|manual=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
|donation=
|similar=[[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]], [[planer]]
}}
A jointer is used for straightening the narrow sides of [[Wood|wooden]] boards which is necessary for panel glue-ups and some kinds of [[:Category:Joinery|joinery]]. It basically consists of a flat surface with a slightly protruding cutting drum at the center.

We chose to get a combination jointer/planer to save valuable space: thanks to the second flat surface ''under'' this cutting drum, you can also thickness boards with this machine!

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=
|PictureComment=
|Manual=done
|ManualComment=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]
|Security=
|SecurityComment=printed manual needs to be kept at the machine (done), [[Push Blocks|push blocks]] need to be adapted with pins that fall down behind the workpiece (and/or make a new one with a lip)
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

== Buying rough sawn wood ==

With our Jointer-Planer, you are able to buy rough sawn wood from wholesalers, your favorite construction market - or even directly from one of the saw mills in the surrounding area. Depending on how rough the wood is, you'll have to plan on removing between 2 and 4mm of material per large face and up to 10mm on the smaller faces of the wood - this is due to the sawing marks on the larger faces and on the often non-squarely cut smaller faces. In construction markets, the rough wood tends to be on the lower end of the amount of material to be removed, while wholesalers or mills tend to be on the upper end of material to be removed. So, you should buy your base wood oversized and rather too large than too small.

While construction markets like Bauhaus, Hornbach or Obi usually have fixed prices depending on cut and size and are rather expensive, wholesalers and saw mills price their wood by volume and are often open for negotiation - you usually directly get 3% off when paying immediately, if you ask. Always ask beforehand, if the volume is calculated *before* drying (which is often the case for domestic woods) or *after* drying (which is often the case for imported wood) - this may change the price by up to 15%.

=== Buying wholesale or at a saw mill ===

You should bring a pocket ruler and (optionally) a small hand plane.

If you want the best bargain, you should also check, if the wood has been Air Dried (noted by the abbreviation AD) or Kiln Dried (abbreviated by KD) - the former is usually 10-20% cheaper than the latter. Air dried wood has gotten a lot longer time to dry out, which also reduces the internal stress - air-dried wood tends not to warp and rip as much as kiln-dried wood, but both are completely fine to buy.

When choosing woods, it's accustom for you to choose the exact pieces you want, which usually have to buy whole. You usually are allowed to bring a small plane and can ask to plane a small area to check the grain. Also bring a pocket ruler to determine the sizes, since each piece will have it's own size. Should the wood have a split at the end, this piece has to be cut or will continue to rip apart later one. It's okay to ''not'' take that board or negotiate the price down.

[[File:Wood_ring_direction.png]] ([https://informationsdienst-holz.de/fileadmin/Publikationen/2_Holzbau_Handbuch/R04_T01_F01_Holz_als_konstruktiver_Baustoff.pdf Source])

You should also check the end face and identify the cut - especially if you plan to use the wood outside, where the environment will cause the wood to shrink and expand.

* if the wood grain lies flat, the board tends to warp uniformly and a lot (fig a)
* if the wood grain stands (fig b), the board will not warp
* if the wood grain is diagonally (fig c), the board tends to warp unpredictably, but not as much as in figure a

If you've chosen your boards, an employee of the wholesaler or saw mill will calculate the price, which you usually have to pay now. They usually will shorten the board roughly with a chainsaw (transport cuts) to fit them in your vehicle.

=== Time and effort / price ===

Depending on the hardness of your wood, you can take of more or less depth in one pass on the jointer or planer. To give you a rough idea: [[User:Lars]] bought 12 pieces à 1000x300x55mm of rough sawn hardwood from a wholesaler. It took ''2 hours'' to get the 12 pieces flat and square on 3 sides and reduced the width of the boards to 49mm and another ''20 minutes'' to get them to their final thickness of 45mm. Add another ''15 minutes'' for cleanup of the machine. This produced 2 sacks of saw dust.

If the wood would have been a softwood from a construction market, the first part would have taken around 1 hour instead of 2 hours. Still, in contrast to hand planing with a bench plane, it's probably a fifth of the time needed otherwise.

Some saw mills might also joint and plane this for you, which is a service you'll obviously have to pay extra for. Still, in comparison to buying pre-planed and joined hardwood, it's a lot cheaper to do it yourself. ''Remember'': Jointing and planing dulls the knifes of the machine a lot and the saw dust has to be recycled - your member fee does not include those costs, so remember to leave a share.

== Alternatives ==

* jointing can also be achieved with a plane (ideally a long-bodied [[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]]) or a special [[Jigs|jig]] for the [[Table Saw|table saw]]
* instead of a thickness planer, you can use [[Bench Planes|bench planes]] or a handheld [[planer]]

[[Category:Woodworking]]

Jointer-Planer

2020-09-12T10:11:57Z

Lars:

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Hammer A3-31
|image=
|synonyms=planer-thicknesser, power jointer, thickness planer; DE: Abricht- und Dickenhobelmaschine, "Abrichte", "Dickte"
|type=
|status=in [[commissioning]]
|access=
|location=in transit
|material=naturally structured [[wood]] (not more [[Engineered Woods|engineered]] than [[Glulam|glued laminated timber]]!)
|tutors=
|manual=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
|donation=
|similar=[[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]], [[planer]]
}}
A jointer is used for straightening the narrow sides of [[Wood|wooden]] boards which is necessary for panel glue-ups and some kinds of [[:Category:Joinery|joinery]]. It basically consists of a flat surface with a slightly protruding cutting drum at the center.

We chose to get a combination jointer/planer to save valuable space: thanks to the second flat surface ''under'' this cutting drum, you can also thickness boards with this machine!

{{Commissioning
|IssueNumber=
|Naming=done
|NamingComment=
|Picture=
|PictureComment=
|Manual=done
|ManualComment=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
|Documentation=
|DocumentationComment=
|QR=
|QRComment=
|Introduction=
|IntroductionComment=[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]
|Security=
|SecurityComment=printed manual needs to be kept at the machine (done), [[Push Blocks|push blocks]] need to be adapted with pins that fall down behind the workpiece (and/or make a new one with a lip)
|Test=
|TestComment=
|OwnerValue=
|OwnerValueComment=
|Availability=
|AvailabilityComment=
}}

== Buying rough sawn wood ==

With our Jointer-Planer, you are able to buy rough sawn wood from wholesalers, your favorite construction market - or even directly from one of the saw mills in the surrounding area. Depending on how rough the wood is, you'll have to plan on removing between 2 and 4mm of material per large face and up to 10mm on the smaller faces of the wood - this is due to the sawing marks on the larger faces and on the often non-squarely cut smaller faces. In construction markets, the rough wood tends to be on the lower end of the amount of material to be removed, while wholesalers or mills tend to be on the upper end of material to be removed. So, you should buy your base wood oversized and rather too large than too small.

While construction markets like Bauhaus, Hornbach or Obi usually have fixed prices depending on cut and size and are rather expensive, wholesalers and saw mills price their wood by volume and are often open for negotiation - you usually directly get 3% off when paying immediately, if you ask. Always ask beforehand, if the volume is calculated *before* drying (which is often the case for domestic woods) or *after* drying (which is often the case for imported wood) - this may change the price by up to 15%.

=== Buying wholesale or at a saw mill ===

You should bring a pocket ruler and (optionally) a small hand plane.

If you want the best bargain, you should also check, if the wood has been Air Dried (noted by the abbreviation AD) or Kiln Dried (abbreviated by KD) - the former is usually 10-20% cheaper than the latter. Air dried wood has gotten a lot longer time to dry out, which also reduces the internal stress - air-dried wood tends not to warp and rip as much as kiln-dried wood, but both are completely fine to buy.

When choosing woods, it's accustom for you to choose the exact pieces you want, which usually have to buy whole. You usually are allowed to bring a small plane and can ask to plane a small area to check the grain. Also bring a pocket ruler to determine the sizes, since each piece will have it's own size. Should the wood have a split at the end, this piece has to be cut or will continue to rip apart later one. It's okay to ''not'' take that board or negotiate the price down.

[[File:Wood_ring_direction.png]]

You should also check the end face and identify the cut - especially if you plan to use the wood outside, where the environment will cause the wood to shrink and expand.

* if the wood grain lies flat, the board tends to warp uniformly and a lot (fig a)
* if the wood grain stands (fig b), the board will not warp
* if the wood grain is diagonally (fig c), the board tends to warp unpredictably, but not as much as in figure a

If you've chosen your boards, an employee of the wholesaler or saw mill will calculate the price, which you usually have to pay now. They usually will shorten the board roughly with a chainsaw (transport cuts) to fit them in your vehicle.

=== Time and effort / price ===

Depending on the hardness of your wood, you can take of more or less depth in one pass on the jointer or planer. To give you a rough idea: [[User:Lars]] bought 12 pieces à 1000x300x55mm of rough sawn hardwood from a wholesaler. It took ''2 hours'' to get the 12 pieces flat and square on 3 sides and reduced the width of the boards to 49mm and another ''20 minutes'' to get them to their final thickness of 45mm. Add another ''15 minutes'' for cleanup of the machine. This produced 2 sacks of saw dust.

If the wood would have been a softwood from a construction market, the first part would have taken around 1 hour instead of 2 hours. Still, in contrast to hand planing with a bench plane, it's probably a fifth of the time needed otherwise.

Some saw mills might also joint and plane this for you, which is a service you'll obviously have to pay extra for. Still, in comparison to buying pre-planed and joined hardwood, it's a lot cheaper to do it yourself. ''Remember'': Jointing and planing dulls the knifes of the machine a lot and the saw dust has to be recycled - your member fee does not include those costs, so remember to leave a share.

== Alternatives ==

* jointing can also be achieved with a plane (ideally a long-bodied [[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]]) or a special [[Jigs|jig]] for the [[Table Saw|table saw]]
* instead of a thickness planer, you can use [[Bench Planes|bench planes]] or a handheld [[planer]]

[[Category:Woodworking]]

File:Wood ring direction.png

2020-09-12T09:52:29Z

Lars: Taken from https://informationsdienst-holz.de/fileadmin/Publikationen/2_Holzbau_Handbuch/R04_T01_F01_Holz_als_konstruktiver_Baustoff.pdf (page 26)

== Summary ==
Taken from https://informationsdienst-holz.de/fileadmin/Publikationen/2_Holzbau_Handbuch/R04_T01_F01_Holz_als_konstruktiver_Baustoff.pdf (page 26)