CoMakingSpace Wiki - User Contributions [en]

Oscilloscope Introduction

2026-03-13T13:54:25Z

Johannes:

{{incomplete}}

This is the content required for an introduction to our <nowiki>[[Introduction for::Oscilloscope]]</nowiki> - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you are ready for this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: '''(TUTORS TO BE ADDED)'''

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the [[Oscilloscope|machine's wiki page]] and manual.

== ⚠️ Safety ==
As with any electric device, avoid moisture or exposure to liquids, don't operate with opened/damaged housing.

[[PPE|Personal protection]]: No specific personal protection equipment needed

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| Electric Shock ||
* Only work on low voltage is permitted (AC ≤ '''50 V''', DC ≤ '''120 V''').
* Do not touch exposed circuits when measuring signals on an open device or PCB.
* Only use insulated probes and handles.
* Do not float the oscilloscope or attempt differential measurements with standard probes at hazardous voltages; use appropriate high‑voltage differential probes
|-
| High Voltages ||
* Never apply signals higher that the oscilloscope's and probe's ratings.
|}

== Suggested Reading ==
"How to not blow up your Oscilloscope": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaELqAo4kkQ

"How to use an Oscilloscope" by Sparkfun: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-an-oscilloscope/all

"Oscilloscope Fundamentals Primer" by Rohde & Schwarz:https://ethz.ch/content/dam/ethz/special-interest/chab/chab-dept/research/documents/LPC/oscilloscopefundamentals.pdf#page=1&zoom=50,-6,807

(German) "Die größte Seuche der Elektrotechnik" [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROM7s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKB_buROge.M7s] A video that explains common mode interference (''Gleichtaktstörungen'') and gives insight into why and how they are avoided.

Artikelserie "Moderne Oszilloskop-Meßtechnik" des ELV Journals (Teil 10 fehlt): 
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_04_14_messtechnik.pdf Teil 1],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_05_18_messtechnik.pdf Teil 2],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1994_06_10_messtechnik.pdf Teil 3],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_01_17_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 4],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_02_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 5],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_03_14_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 6],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_04_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 7],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_05_22_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 8],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1995_06_09_oszillo.pdf Teil 9],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_02_08_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 11],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_03_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 12],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_04_15_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 13],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_05_12_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 14],
[https://media.elv.com/file/1996_06_19_oszilloskop.pdf Teil 15]

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:

=== Preparation and power‑up ===
# '''Ground the instrument.''' Plug the oscilloscope into a grounded outlet. Ensure the instrument shares ground with the device under test - that usually means connecting GND of all connected devices to PE (Protective Earth)
# '''Power on.''' Use the front‑panel power switch to turn on the oscilloscope. Allow the device to boot and complete its self‑test.
# '''Reset to default setup.''' Press the DEFAULT button to restore the oscilloscope to a known configuration. This ensures standard settings for controls and avoids unexpected behaviour.

=== Connecting and compensating probes ===
# '''Select the channel and vertical scale.''' Press the CH 1 button to enable channel 1. Set the volts/div knob and the vertical position to mid‑range
# '''Attach the probe.''' Connect the passive probe’s BNC connector to the channel input. Attach the ground lead clip to a known ground on the oscilloscope or reference terminal
# '''Compensate the probe.''' Connect the probe tip to the scope’s built‑in square‑wave reference output. Adjust the probe’s compensation capacitor until the displayed square wave has flat tops and bottoms
# '''Repeat this for each channel.'''

=== Basic measurements ===

# '''Time base and triggering:''' Adjust the horizontal time/div knob to set the time scale; adjust the trigger level and trigger mode (Auto, Normal, Single) as needed. For repetitive signals, AUTOSET can help to automatically adjust time base, vertical scale and trigger.
# '''Voltage measurements:''' Use the cursors or built‑in measurement functions to display peak‑to‑peak voltage, RMS voltage, frequency and other parameters.
# '''Multiple channels:''' Enable additional channels (CH 2–CH 4) to compare signals and measure phase differences or timing relationships. Use the Math menu to subtract signals or calculate FFTs.
# '''Digital channels and serial decoding (optional):''' Use the digital inputs to capture up to 16 logic channels and decode I²C, SPI, UART, CAN or LIN protocols. The Serial menu allows you to assign channels and view decoded data.

=== Saving and exporting data ===

* Insert a USB flash drive into one of the front USB ports. Use the Save/Recall menu to save waveform snapshots, setups or CSV data for further analysis.
* For remote operation, connect an Ethernet cable to the RJ45 port. Open a web browser and enter the oscilloscope’s IP address to access the built‑in web server, which allows live control, screen capture and file transfers.

[[Category:Introductions]]

Makita DTD173

2026-02-08T15:59:46Z

Johannes: /* Makita DTD173 */

==Makita DTD173==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Makita DTD173
|german=Schlagschrauber
|image=Makita-DTD173.jpg
|synonyms=impact wrench, impact driver, impact screwdriver, Akku-Schlagschrauber, Schrauber, Drehschlagschrauber, Schlagbohrschrauber
|manual=[https://www.icmsmakita.eu/CMS/custom/fi/attachments/user_manuals/User_manuals_EU2/DTD173.pdf icmsmakita.eu]
|material=wood, metal, concrete, plastic
|used with=1/4" hex impact-rated screwdriver bits Impact bit holders Socket adapters (1/4" hex to square drive) Impact sockets (with adapter) Nut setters (impact-rated) Long or torsion bits
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=218
}}

⚠️Only use impact-rated bits. DO NOT use this machine with regular bits!⚠️

The Makita DTD173 is a compact and powerful 18 V cordless impact driver designed primarily for driving screws and bolts. It features a brushless motor, electronic speed control, and a lightweight housing for reduced user fatigue and excellent handling in confined spaces.

The impact mechanism delivers high torque through rotational hammering, allowing efficient fastening with minimal kickback. Speed and impact force are controlled via the variable-speed trigger and electronic modes.

This tool operates with '''[[18 V LXT batteries]]''' and uses a '''1/4" [[Screwdriver_Bits#Bit_Holders|hex bit holder]]''' for quick, tool-less bit changes.

* No torque clutch is included
* Louder than a standard [[Cordless Drills|cordless drill]] due to impact mechanism
* Should not be used for delicate or fine mechanical work

== Key Features ==

* Brushless motor for high efficiency and long service life
* Variable speed trigger for controlled fastening
* Electronic modes for different applications
* Compact and lightweight design
* Built-in LED work light
* 1/4" hex quick-release bit holder
* Compatible with Makita 18 V LXT battery system

== Proper Use ==

* Designed for driving screws and bolts, not for drilling
* Best used with impact-rated bits and accessories
* Speed and torque are controlled by trigger pressure

* '''''Not suitable''''' for precision torque applications

Makita DJV181

2026-02-08T14:25:59Z

Johannes:

==Makita DJV181==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Makita DJV181
|german=Stichsäge
|image=Makita-DJV181.jpg
|synonyms=DE:Stichsäge
|manual=[https://www.icmsmakita.eu/CMS/custom/fi/attachments/user_manuals/User_manuals_EU2/DJV181.pdf icmsmakita.eu]
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=217
}}

This cordless Makita Jigsaw was donated via [[:Category:Bonus Programs|Bauhaus Bonusprogram]].

Key features are:
* three-stage pendulum action
* tool-free blade change.
* Engine speed can be adjusted between 800 and 3 500 min.
* stroke length: 26 mm
* cutting capacity: 135 mm in wood and 10 mm in steel
* can be used with external extraction
* works with T-Shade blades.

To adjust the speed, use the dial at the end of the handle.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Position
!Cutting action
!Applications
|-
|0
|Straight line
cutting action
|For cutting mild steel, stainless steel and plastics. For clean cuts in wood and plywood.
|-
|I
|Small orbit cutting action
|For cutting mild steel, aluminum and hard wood.
|-
|II
|Medium orbit cutting action
|For cutting wood and plywood. For fast cutting in aluminum and mild steel.
|-
|III
|Large orbit cutting action
|For fast cutting in wood and plywood.
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Workpiece to be cut
!Number on adjusting dial
|-
|Wood
|4 - 6
|-
|Mild steel
|3 - 6
|-
|Stainless steel
|3 - 4
|-
|Aluminum
|3 - 6
|-
|Plastics
|1 - 4
|}

Workshopmaterial

2025-12-21T14:27:28Z

Johannes:

== Workshopmaterial ==
== Material Adventskranzbasteln (Box A) ==
* 6x Gartenscheren
* 14x Strohringe
* 18x 4x Kerzenhalter
* 21x Rollen Draht
* 1 Sack Pinienzapfen
== Pflanziska Workshop (Box P) ==
* 1x Workshop-Kits
** 1x Raspberry Pi Pico
** 1x Breadboard
** 1x Ultraschallsensor
** 1x Feuchtigkeitssensor
** 1x Audio Board
** 1x USB-Kabel
** 10x Jumper FF
** 10x Jumper FM
** 10x Jumper MM
== WUNDERWUZZI Workshop (Box M) ==
* 1x Wunderwuzzi
== Stempel Workshop (Box M) ==
* >10x 4x5cm
* >10x 3x3cm
* >10x d3cm
* >10x 2x3,5cm

Workshopmaterial

2025-12-21T14:15:06Z

Johannes: Created page with "== Workshopmaterial == == Material Adventskranzbasteln == * 6x Gartenscheren * 14x Strohringe * 18x 4x Kerzenhalter * 21x Rollen Draht * 1 Sack Pinienzapfen == Pflanziska Workshop == * 1x Workshop-Kits ** 1x Raspberry Pi Pico ** 1x Breadboard ** 1x Ultraschallsensor ** 1x Feuchtigkeitssensor ** 1x Audio Board ** 1x USB-Kabel ** 10x Jumper FF ** 10x Jumper FM ** 10x Jumper MM == WUNDERWUZZI Workshop == * 1x Wunderwuzzi == Stempel Workshop == * >10x 4x5cm * >10x 3x3cm * >1..."

== Workshopmaterial ==
== Material Adventskranzbasteln ==
* 6x Gartenscheren
* 14x Strohringe
* 18x 4x Kerzenhalter
* 21x Rollen Draht
* 1 Sack Pinienzapfen
== Pflanziska Workshop ==
* 1x Workshop-Kits
** 1x Raspberry Pi Pico
** 1x Breadboard
** 1x Ultraschallsensor
** 1x Feuchtigkeitssensor
** 1x Audio Board
** 1x USB-Kabel
** 10x Jumper FF
** 10x Jumper FM
** 10x Jumper MM
== WUNDERWUZZI Workshop ==
* 1x Wunderwuzzi
== Stempel Workshop ==
* >10x 4x5cm
* >10x 3x3cm
* >10x d3cm
* >10x 2x3,5cm

Handheld Circular Saw Introduction

2025-12-13T13:06:24Z

Johannes:

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Handheld Circular Saws|handheld circular saws]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]], [[Tutor::User:Sebastian|Sebastian]],
[[Tutor::User:no.shoes|Niklas]],

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual:
* [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1311650/Festool-Ts-75-Ebq.html Festool TS 75 EBQ] (plunge saw)

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]]

(a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]] could also be necessary depending on your material)

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| sharp and rotating exposed blade - will keep spinning for a bit after turning the power off! ||
* keep the saw secure after your cut until is has come to a complete stop
* make sure the cutting path is free of obstacles (except your workpiece of course)
|-
| kickback: if the blade binds with the material it can push the saw back towards the user - this usually happens when the blade is pinched or the saw is started while already touching the wood (see [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdW7vhYYSdM video]) ||
* let the saw start '''before''' the blade touches the workpiece
* '''[[Plunge Saw|plunge saw]] (Festool TS 75):'''
** when doing a plunge cut, make sure the rail/workpiece can't move sideways. This could cause the blade to bind and kickback.
** attach the endstop to the rail to reduce the chance of kickback
** use an appropriately sized riving knife ''(DE: Spaltkeil)'' for the blade you're using
|-
| sawdust and small splinters can fly towards the operator and others ||
* hook up a [[Shop Vac|shop vac]], taking care that the hose can move freely when you push the saw
* wear [[goggles]]
* [[Dust Mask|dust mask]]: depending on the material you're cutting
|}

Whenever you are cutting larger pieces, get a helper who can hold your cutoff so it doesn't fall down!

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
* using the proper [[Circular Saw Guide|circular saw guide]]

'''Festool TS 75:'''
* change cutting angle
* change cutting depth

{{#set:
| checklist_title=Circular Saw
| checklist_symbols=M004
| checklist_symbols=M003
| checklist_symbols=M002
| checklist_symbols=M016
| checklist_link=https://wiki.comakingspace.de/index.php?title=Circular_Saw_Introduction
| checklist_before=**Must** check that path underneath the saw is clear (no table, floor, etc)
| checklist_before=**Should not** plunge into workpiece unless necessary (kickback)
| checklist_before=**Must** check blade height
| checklist_before=Think about your setup once the cut-off is removed (can it tip/fall?)
| checklist_during=**Must** make sure the rail can't slide
| checklist_after=Put Festool saw back into systainer and underneath the chop saw
}}

[[Category:Introductions]]

Handheld Circular Saw Introduction

2025-12-13T13:06:07Z

Johannes: Add Niklas

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Handheld Circular Saws|handheld circular saws]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]], [[Tutor::User:Sebastian|Sebastian]]
[[Tutor::User:no.shoes|Niklas]],

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual:
* [https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1311650/Festool-Ts-75-Ebq.html Festool TS 75 EBQ] (plunge saw)

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]]

(a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]] could also be necessary depending on your material)

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| sharp and rotating exposed blade - will keep spinning for a bit after turning the power off! ||
* keep the saw secure after your cut until is has come to a complete stop
* make sure the cutting path is free of obstacles (except your workpiece of course)
|-
| kickback: if the blade binds with the material it can push the saw back towards the user - this usually happens when the blade is pinched or the saw is started while already touching the wood (see [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdW7vhYYSdM video]) ||
* let the saw start '''before''' the blade touches the workpiece
* '''[[Plunge Saw|plunge saw]] (Festool TS 75):'''
** when doing a plunge cut, make sure the rail/workpiece can't move sideways. This could cause the blade to bind and kickback.
** attach the endstop to the rail to reduce the chance of kickback
** use an appropriately sized riving knife ''(DE: Spaltkeil)'' for the blade you're using
|-
| sawdust and small splinters can fly towards the operator and others ||
* hook up a [[Shop Vac|shop vac]], taking care that the hose can move freely when you push the saw
* wear [[goggles]]
* [[Dust Mask|dust mask]]: depending on the material you're cutting
|}

Whenever you are cutting larger pieces, get a helper who can hold your cutoff so it doesn't fall down!

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
* using the proper [[Circular Saw Guide|circular saw guide]]

'''Festool TS 75:'''
* change cutting angle
* change cutting depth

{{#set:
| checklist_title=Circular Saw
| checklist_symbols=M004
| checklist_symbols=M003
| checklist_symbols=M002
| checklist_symbols=M016
| checklist_link=https://wiki.comakingspace.de/index.php?title=Circular_Saw_Introduction
| checklist_before=**Must** check that path underneath the saw is clear (no table, floor, etc)
| checklist_before=**Should not** plunge into workpiece unless necessary (kickback)
| checklist_before=**Must** check blade height
| checklist_before=Think about your setup once the cut-off is removed (can it tip/fall?)
| checklist_during=**Must** make sure the rail can't slide
| checklist_after=Put Festool saw back into systainer and underneath the chop saw
}}

[[Category:Introductions]]

WilTec 65415

2025-11-24T17:52:11Z

Johannes: add id

{{Commissioning
|Naming=Done
|Manual=Done
|Documentation=Done|Introduction=Which would be appropriate?}}
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Wiltec 65414
|german=Spindel- und Bandschleifer
|image=Spindle Sander.jpg
|assetid=213
|synonyms=
|manual=https://service.wiltec.de/manuals/65/65415/EN/65415-doc-en.pdf
|material=Material:Wood
|used with=Sanding Belts
|similar=Belt and Disc Sander}}
The Wiltec Oscillating Spindle Sander offers professional sanding results, versatility, efficiency and precision in one compact sanding machine. This sander has a 500 W motor and a speed of 2000 rpm. The 16 mm oscillation height reduces friction and extends the lifespan of sanding sleeves, which makes it suitable for challenging woodworking tasks. Combining an oscillating spindle and a belt sander, this versatile sanding machine allows you to easily sand edges, curves and surfaces. The combination of rotation and vertical oscillation ensures an even finish with minimal effort.

The sanding table tilts up to 45°, which allows you to easily sand edges. This feature is useful for a wide range of woodwork tasks and also for working on complex projects that require a lot of details. The Wiltec Oscillating Spindle Sander includes five sanding sleeves (13-51 mm) for various sanding tasks: 51 mm (2″) 38 mm (1.5″) 26 mm (1″) 19 mm (0.75″) and 13 mm (0.5″).
[[File:Spindle Sander Manual.png|thumb|Spindle Sander Manual]]

===== ''Use as spindle sander'' =====
Insert the bench insert '''(10)''' into the workbench '''(4).''' Place the fan wheel '''(26)''' with the flat side down on the spindle '''(11).''' Note! Ensure it is firmly in place. You may need to manually rotate the fan wheel '''(26)''' slightly to seat it correctly. Select the appropriate bench insert '''(22)''' for the sanding roller '''(21).''' Note! The size specifications of the bench insert and the sanding roller must match. The sizes of the bench inserts and sanding rollers are indicated under the corresponding storage '''(6)''' on the device. Insert the appropriate bench insert '''(22)''' into the recess of the bench insert '''(10).''' Place the sanding roller '''(21)''' on the spindle '''(11).''' Attach one of the matching washers '''(24/25/27)''' or no washer to the spindle '''(11).''' Hand-tighten the nut '''(23)''' onto the spindle '''(11)''' using the open-end spanner '''(18)'''

===== ''Use as belt run'' =====
[[File:Spindle Sander Side1.jpg|thumb|Spindle Sander]]
The belt run can be corrected using the adjusting screw '''(1)''' or the sanding belt lever '''(2).''' Note! The sanding belt must not be allowed to sand on the workbench '''(4)''' or the bench insert '''(10)''' when the machine is running, otherwise the sanding belt will be damaged.

If the sanding belt moves, it must be minimally adjusted via the adjusting screw '''(1).''' To push the sanding belt upwards, turn the adjusting screw '''(1)''' clockwise. To move it down, turnthe adjusting screw '''(1)''' counterclockwise.

If the sanding belt shifts significantly, the position of the sanding belt must be corrected using the sanding belt lever '''(2)''' and then finely adjusted using the adjusting screw '''(1).'''
[[File:Spindle Sander Side.jpg|thumb|Spindle Sander ]]

GOSSEN METRAWATT METRALINE DM62

2025-11-08T15:39:38Z

Johannes: bild

==GOSSEN METRAWATT METRALINE DM62==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=GOSSEN METRAWATT METRALINE DM62
|german=Multimeter
|image=Metraline DM62.jpg
|synonyms=
|manual=
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=209
}}

=== Overview ===
The METRALINE DM62 is a reliable and accurate digital multimeter.

=== Key Features ===
* ABS Automatic Blocking Sockets
* Measurement functions:
* AC/DC Voltage up to 1000 V
* AC/DC Current up to 10 A
* Resistance, Continuity, Diode Test, Capacitance, Frequency
* CAT III 600V / CAT IV 300 V Safety Rated

=== Usage Tips ===
Always start on the highest range to avoid damaging the meter.
Use the correct input jacks and function dial position.
Be cautious when working near high voltage.

=== Note: ===
Handle with care—this is precision equipment. Return it to its storage case after use.

File:Metraline DM62.jpg

2025-11-08T15:37:51Z

Johannes:

== Licensing ==
{{CC-by-sa-4.0}}

GOSSEN METRAWATT METRALINE DM62

2025-11-08T15:34:28Z

Johannes:

==GOSSEN METRAWATT METRALINE DM62==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=GOSSEN METRAWATT METRALINE DM62
|german=Multimeter
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=209
}}

=== Overview ===
The METRALINE DM62 is a reliable and accurate digital multimeter.

=== Key Features ===
* ABS Automatic Blocking Sockets
* Measurement functions:
* AC/DC Voltage up to 1000 V
* AC/DC Current up to 10 A
* Resistance, Continuity, Diode Test, Capacitance, Frequency
* CAT III 600V / CAT IV 300 V Safety Rated

=== Usage Tips ===
Always start on the highest range to avoid damaging the meter.
Use the correct input jacks and function dial position.
Be cautious when working near high voltage.

=== Note: ===
Handle with care—this is precision equipment. Return it to its storage case after use.

GOSSEN METRAWATT METRALINE DM62

2025-11-08T15:32:31Z

Johannes: new Tool : )

==GOSSEN METRAWATT METRALINE DM62==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=GOSSEN METRAWATT METRALINE DM62
|german=Multimeter
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=
}}

=== Overview ===
The METRALINE DM62 is a reliable and accurate digital multimeter.

=== Key Features ===
* ABS Automatic Blocking Sockets
* Measurement functions:
* AC/DC Voltage up to 1000 V
* AC/DC Current up to 10 A
* Resistance, Continuity, Diode Test, Capacitance, Frequency
* CAT III 600V / CAT IV 300 V Safety Rated

=== Usage Tips ===
Always start on the highest range to avoid damaging the meter.
Use the correct input jacks and function dial position.
Be cautious when working near high voltage.

=== Note: ===
Handle with care—this is precision equipment. Return it to its storage case after use.

GOSSEN METRAWATT METRALINE DM62

2025-11-08T15:27:22Z

Johannes: Created page with " ==$1== {{ToolInfoBox |tool name=$1 |german= |image= |synonyms= |type= |status= |material= |used with= |location= |access= |made by= |tutors= |manual= |similar= }}"

==$1==

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=$1
|german=
|image=
|synonyms=
|type=
|status=
|material=
|used with=
|location=
|access=
|made by=
|tutors=
|manual=
|similar=
}}

Soldering Iron Introduction

2025-10-15T12:40:35Z

Johannes:

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Soldering Irons|soldering irons]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it even quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]],
[[Tutor::User:Leo|Leo]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]] [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the tool's manual, ''if available''.

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]]

[[File:Splashing_solder_-_it_happens!.png|thumb|right|splashing solder is rare, but dangerous - wear [[goggles]]!]]
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| the tip gets very hot (over 300 °C) || only touch the handle, rest the iron in its stand when not using it
|-
| toxic fumes are be generated when soldering or overheating neighboring components ||
* take care of good ventilation and don't inhale the fumes
* use a fume extractor with carbon filter if possible
|-
| hot flux or solder can splash towards you during soldering, e.g. when a springy wire gets loose || protect your eyes with [[goggles]]
|-
| the solder may contain poisonous lead ||
* get familiar with the type of [[solder]] you're using - for instance, does it contain poisonous lead?
* wash your hands after handling solder
|}

== Demonstration ==
* Change tip
*Turn on soldering iron

== Suggested Reading ==
If you're new to soldering: [https://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/L%C3%B6ten ''mikrocontroller.net - "Löten" (DE)'']

[[Category:Introductions]]

Scroll Saw Introduction

2025-10-15T12:39:58Z

Johannes:

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Scroll Saw|scroll saw]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's [https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/03/tools/PDF/B0017V817A.pdf manual].

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]]

''perhaps also a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]] (depending on the material you are going to cut)''

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| rapidly moving arm and blade || never reach under the clear blade guard when the saw is running - that way your fingers will always be at a safe distance from the blade
|-
| binding teeth could pull the workpiece up and out of your hand || make sure the blade's teeth point downward so they press the workpiece against the table when cutting
|-
| dust and splinters are generated || hook up a [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] and adjust the saw's blower nozzle so that dust is quickly removed from the cut
|-
| medium amount of noise, but close to the operator's head || wear [[Ear Defenders|ear defenders]]
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_sudden_start.svg|left|50px]] no prevention of turning on after loss & restoration of power (''keine Anlaufsicherung'') || if the power has been lost for whatever reason, always switch the power button to "0" before restoring it!
|}

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:

=== Changing Saw Blades ===
We mostly use quick-release saw blades with pins on both ends, '''do not screw these in or they will break'''! Saw blades without pins have to be secured by screws on both arms of the machine.

* unplug the machine
* turn the tensioner (knob in the back) counterclockwise to loosen
* push the top arm down
* unhinge '''or''' unscrew the saw blade from the top and bottom arm
* insert a new saw blade (teeth pointing down, pins carefully hooked in their grooves '''or''' screws tightened)
* turn the tensioner clockwise until the blade makes a high-pitch noise when plucked
* continue working

[[Category:Introductions]]

Rotary Tool Introduction

2025-10-15T12:39:37Z

Johannes:

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Rotary Tool|rotary tool]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's [https://www.libble.de/dremel-4000/p/423544/ manual].

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]]

(hearing and breathing protection recommended depending on bit and material)

As there are many different bits and materials you could use with this tool, not all dangers may be relevant to your current use case but you should be aware nonetheless:
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| rapidly spinning exposed chuck & bit, binding can cause kickback ||
* make sure the collet is properly tightened around the inserted bit
* stay clear of the rotating accessory and the direction where kickback might occur
* put small workpieces in a [[vise]] or [[clamp]] them down
* let the tool reach full speed before contacting the workpiece
|-
| generation of hot sparks that are expelled in varying directions ||
* wear [[goggles]] to protect your eyes
* do not attempt to vacuum up sparks! The dust collection bag could catch fire
|-
| sparks fly very far and deposit themselves as fine dust, (metal) dust can be a health hazard when inhaled || use [[Breathing Protection|breathing protection]] if your use case demands it
|-
| the workpiece can heat up and stay hot for a while || wear suitable [[gloves]] to prevent burns from sparks or the workpiece
|-
| [[aluminum]] can clog an abrasive disc and cause it to overheat until it breaks || do not use [[Abrasive Discs|abrasive discs]] on aluminum
|-
| [[Cut-Off Wheels|cut-off wheels]] could shatter under (side) force ||
* do not apply any side force to these wheels
* in general only little force should be applied while cutting. Let the tool do the work!
|-
| medium amount of noise, but potentially close to the operator's head || wear [[Ear Defenders|ear defenders]] if it's too loud (normally you don't need them)
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_sudden_start.svg|left|50px]] has no prevention of turning on after loss & restoration of power ''(keine Anlaufsicherung)'' || if the power has been lost for whatever reason, always return the power button to the "off" position before restoring it!
|}

== Suggested Reading ==
When you use this tool, please read & add to the information about [[Rotary Tool Bits|rotary tool bits]]!

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps in detail:
* inserting a bit
* attaching a handling accessory, e.g. the flexible shaft

[[Category:Introductions]]

3D Printer Introduction

2025-10-15T12:39:04Z

Johannes:

''(deutsche Version: [[3D-Drucker-Einweisung]] - Änderungen wenn möglich auch dort eintragen!)''

This is the content required for an introduction to our FFF (fused filament fabrication) [[Introduction for::3D Printer]]s - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this Introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Leo|Leo]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Narquadah|Kim]], [[Tutor::User:Ciaran|Ciaran]], [[Tutor::User:Björn|Björn]], [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you are aware of the [[3D Printers#General Usage Guidelines|3D printers' general usage guidelines]] and have read the [http://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2s_en.pdf printers' manual].

== Safety ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
|
[[File:Danger_-_heat.svg|left|50px]] exposed heated parts - may still be hot if the display is already turned off!
* nozzle (over 200 °C)
* print bed (up to 100 °C)
|| do not touch these parts when the printer is or has recently been running
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_hand injury.svg|left|50px]] rapidly moving mechanical parts || do not reach into the print area while in operation!
|-
|
* machine may keep executing its commands after something went wrong
** every move is based on the initial homing ("zero-ing")
** no sensing of obstacles or current position!
||
* closely watch the homing process and the initial layer before leaving the printer alone
* stay within the CoMakingSpace for the duration of your print and occasionally have a look at how it's going
** if you need to leave for a while, pause the print or ask someone to supervise it
** there is no need to sit in front of the machine all the time, just '''do not leave the Space!'''
|-
| when removing support material, small plastic parts can fly everywhere || wear eye protection when removing support material
|}

=== How to Stop ===
Here are your options, depending on how fast you have to be:
* FAST - the printer is crashing/heading for an obstacle/making weird noises/going up in smoke?
** press the "X" button on the control panel (will reset the printer, everything freezes but the fans stay on)
** via the control panel, move up (Z +) so the nozzle gets out of the part that failed
** if you can't identify '''exactly''' what went wrong and how to fix it, talk to a [[tutor]] before attempting the print again

* SLOW - you're not happy with the way your print is turning out?
** via the control panel, select <code>ABORT PRINT</code>
** change the [[:Category:Slicers|print settings]] you think were responsible and try again (best keep the failed part for reference!)
** if there is a removable mistake that isn't critical yet, you could also <code>PAUSE PRINT</code> and try to fix it

== Control Panel ==
Push the dial to enter the menu and as an "Enter" button, turn to scroll through lists of settings - the details about this are found in the [http://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2s_en.pdf printers' manual].

Be aware that changes via the control panel do not have an immediate effect, but a few lines of code may still be executed from the machine's buffer!

== Changing Filament ==
The filament change on our printers is done ''semi'' automatically via the control panel. It usually works quite well but we will demonstrate it as part of the introduction. Before putting in a new spool, make sure you know what type of [[plastic]] it is and what to look out for (e.g. different nozzle temperature, flexibility).

Some materials are currently not printable because they require temperatures our setup won't reach or they would produce noxious fumes. '''Only use the filament provided in the 3D printer farm!'''

== Nozzle size ==
Printers can have different nozzle sizes installed make sure you select the machine profile with the corresponding nozzle size in the slicer.

== Suggested Reading ==
To increase your success rate, you should also read the pages about [[3D Printing|3D printing in general]], [[3D Printer Bed Preparation|bed preparation]], [[filament]] and [[:Category:Slicers|slicing]]. Don't beat yourself up if you still have some failed prints - it happens to very experienced users now and then ;-)

{{Waiting List}}

{{#set:
| checklist_title=3D-Printer
| checklist_symbols=W017
| checklist_symbols=W024
| checklist_link=https://wiki.comakingspace.de/3D_Printer_Introduction
| checklist_before=**Must** remove any debris/leftover prints from bed
| checklist_before=**Should** clean bed (e.g. with isopropanol)
| checklist_during=**Must** observe 1st layer
| checklist_during=**Must not** leave the workshop during the print; check regularly
| checklist_after=**Must** remove filament from extruder (may break off if left)
| checklist_after=**Must** let nozzle cool down before turning off printer
| checklist_after=**Should** turn off slicer PC if not needed
}}

[[Category:3D Printing]]
[[Category:Introductions]]

Compressor Introduction

2025-10-15T12:28:12Z

Johannes: add erik

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::compressor]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's [https://media.cdn.bauhaus/m/709373/BH_DOC_709373.pdf manual].

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - gloves.svg|50px]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| compressed air is generated and released through the connected accessories:
* small parts and dirt can fly towards you when blasted
* the airstream can damage eyes, ears and other sensible organs
* blowing air into certain shapes of holes or recesses can generate an unhealthy amount of noise
||
* do not point any air tools and nozzles at yourself or other people - we have a [[Shop Vac|shop vac]] for cleaning!
* wear well-fitting [[goggles]] and [[Ear Defenders|ear defenders]]
* wear [[gloves]] if you need to blow air at something you are holding
|-
| filling unsuitable containers with compressed air can cause them to explode || do not fill any containers (tires etc.) if they appear damaged, and never above their pressure rating
|-
| a bubble of air in the bloodstream can kill you || do not use if you have any open wounds
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_sudden_start.svg|left|50px]] no prevention of turning on after loss & restoration of power (''keine Anlaufsicherung'') || if the power has been lost for whatever reason, always press the orange button into the "off" position before restoring it!
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_heat.svg|left|50px]] parts of the machine may become hot during operation || to avoid burns, don't touch any motor parts if the compressor is or has been running in the last 15 minutes
|}

== Practical Demonstration ==
* connecting and disconnecting the couplings
* setting a defined pressure, e.g. 4 bar for bike tires or the [[Blast Cabinet|blast cabinet]]

== Further Reading ==
* [https://www.schreiner-abz.ch/site/assets/files/1024/suvapro_druckluft_die_unsichtbare_gefahr-komprimiert.pdf ''"Druckluft - die unsichtbare Gefahr" (PDF, DE)'']

[[Category:Introductions]]

Soldering Iron Introduction

2025-10-13T08:51:38Z

Johannes: add erik

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Soldering Irons|soldering irons]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it even quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Mitja|Mitja]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]],
[[Tutor::User:Leo|Leo]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]] [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the tool's manual, ''if available''.

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]]

[[File:Splashing_solder_-_it_happens!.png|thumb|right|splashing solder is rare, but dangerous - wear [[goggles]]!]]
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| the tip gets very hot (over 300 °C) || only touch the handle, rest the iron in its stand when not using it
|-
| toxic fumes are be generated when soldering or overheating neighboring components ||
* take care of good ventilation and don't inhale the fumes
* use a fume extractor with carbon filter if possible
|-
| hot flux or solder can splash towards you during soldering, e.g. when a springy wire gets loose || protect your eyes with [[goggles]]
|-
| the solder may contain poisonous lead ||
* get familiar with the type of [[solder]] you're using - for instance, does it contain poisonous lead?
* wash your hands after handling solder
|}

== Demonstration ==
* Change tip
*Turn on soldering iron

== Suggested Reading ==
If you're new to soldering: [https://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/L%C3%B6ten ''mikrocontroller.net - "Löten" (DE)'']

[[Category:Introductions]]

Laser Cutter Introduction

2025-10-13T08:50:42Z

Johannes: add erik

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Laser_Cutter|laser cutter]]- '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Sebastian|Sebastian]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Björn|Björn]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]], [[Tutor::User:Lmnl99|Luca]] [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the machine's manual (available on the Laser PC).

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: no special PPE needed since the enclosure protects you.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| Fumes generated by burning/evaporating your work-piece might be dangerous ||
* Always ensure the exhaust filtering system is turned on before firing the laser.
* Make sure your work-piece can safely be used with a laser cutter (please reference the list of [[Laser_Cutter#Possible Materials (Cutting/Engraving)|possible materials]]
* Make sure you have read the [[Laser Cutter#Forbidden Materials|list of forbidden materials]] (ANYTHING containing halogens like chlorine or fluorine!) may not be placed into the laser cutter at all
* If you notice a strong smell: Turn off the laser and check the filtering system: something may be broken or the filter is full!
|-
| Invisible but powerful IR radiation || luckily contained by the enclosure (laser class 1)
* safety contacts prevent the laser tube from firing if the lid or any relevant side panels are open
|-
| Fire can [https://hpclaser.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/laserfire.jpg destroy the machine!] ||
* keep the tray clean - small cutouts from past projects burn easily
* do not leave the room when operating the machine; closely supervise all cutting jobs
* double-check the CO2 fire extinguisher is within reach
* opening the lid can already be effective in putting out small fires
|-
|}

==Basics of Laser Cutting==
The Tutor will show you:
* content of the '''entire''' [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] wiki page
** especially [[Laser Cutter#Forbidden Materials|'''forbidden materials!''']]

==Operating the Machine==
The tutor will first show you the basic operations at the laser:
* How to '''prepare the laser cutter'''
** to prevent fires, clean the tray under the table when it gets cluttered with little pieces
**turn on the [[Water Chiller|water chiller]] and let it get to temperature (< 20°C)
* How to turn on the laser
* How to move the x and y motors by using the control panel
**Adjust the jog length to move with larger / smaller steps
* How to ensure the focus of the laser is set correctly by moving the table up and down
* How to use the emergency stop
* How to check the safety switches: laser turns off when glass is lifted - important when fire breaks out!
** also useful if you only have one try and want a "dry run" using only the pointer (''that'' laser stays on)

''This should act as a guide, tutors can always emphasize or add points of importance.''

== Workflow ==
The tutor will show you:
* how to create or edit your [[SVG]] file (using [[Inkscape]] or similar programs)
* how to generate a [[Format:DXF|DXF]] file (use DXF R14 if your program supports this) to import into [[LaserCut 5.3]]
* how to move your files to the laser PC using [[File Drop|file drop]]
* introduction to [[LaserCut 5.3]] running on our laser PC
** settings, raster vs. vector, our [[Laser Cutter Material Settings|collection of material related settings]]
** importing settings

* '''software'''
** install [[Inkscape]] or similar software to produce vector files
** install [[LaserCut 5.3]] (Demo version, Windows only)
** download/import settings
** import [[DXF]] file into [[LaserCut 5.3]]
*** set cutting/engraving settings per path
*** simulate toolpath: <code>Laser --> Simulate</code>
*** estimate work time [[File:Estimate Work Time Button.png]]
*** transfer job
*** '''the entire preparation workflow can be found in detail under "[[LaserCut 5.3]]"'''

* '''execution'''
** activate [[Water Chiller|water chiller]]
** activate [[Laser Exhaust System|exhaust system]]
** prepare the machine ([[Laser Cutter#Machine Control|Machine Control]])
** [[Laser_Cutter#Setting_the_Focus|set the focus]]
** when in focus, the red laser '''should''' be on the right spot (If nobody touched it).
*** you may press <code>Laser</code> to check the divergence of the laser and your cutting point to be extra sure if you have a test piece
** you may press <code>Test</code> on the machine to assure that the file fits the measurements of your workpiece: the machine's head will travel around the bounding rectangle of your design
** [[Laser_Cutter#Starting_the_Job|start the job]] either via the Laser PC or on the cutter's display
** observe cutting, watch for irregular fumes or flames - especially if testing new materials
** cutting might not work for the first one or two cm if you have just started the machine for the first time that day - in that case, restart the job briefly at the end
** do not leave the laser cutter unattended (fire hazard)!
*** cutting: stay at the machine the entire time!
*** engraving: stay at least within sight and earshot!

* '''after cutting'''
** switch off LaserCutter & water chiller
** remove parts from table
** clean tray under the table
** [[Shop Vac|vacuum]] the table if necessary
** [[Laser Cutter Material Settings|share your experiences]] with the others :-)
** donate for the machine time!
*** currently '''20 ct per minute'''
** turn off the PC

{{Waiting List}}

[[Category:Introductions]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]
[[Category:Methods]]

Heat Introduction

2025-10-13T08:49:30Z

Johannes: add erik

This is the content required for an introduction to our tools working with heat:
* [[Introduction for::Heat Gun|heat gun]]
* [[Introduction for::Hot Air Soldering Station|hot air soldering station]]
* [[Introduction for::Hot Glue Gun|hot glue guns]]
* [[Introduction for::Pyrography Burner|pyrography burner]]

'''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it even quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:NitramLegov|Martin]], [[Tutor::User:Keno|Keno]], [[Tutor::User:Luzian|Luzian]], [[Tutor::User:Johannes|Johannes]], [[Tutor::User:Erik|Erik]]

Let's begin! First off, make sure you have read the tool's manual, ''if available''.

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - gloves.svg|50px]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_heat.svg|left|50px]] heated nozzles, surfaces or deposited material (like glue or solder) become hot & '''stay hot''' for a while after turning the tool off || allow time for everything to cool down before touching it or placing the tool back into its case
|-
| ''(hot air tools)'' very hot air is produced (over 500 °C) ||
* don't point the nozzle at body parts or other people
* use a well-insulated glove if you have to hold the workpiece in your hand
* make sure the surface you put your workpiece on can handle the hot air
|-
| [[File:2006-06-011,34, S.jpg|left|50px]] burn injuries can be more serious than expected due to sticky substances like [[Hot Glue|hot glue]] or the wrong treatment || quickly apply slightly warm water to burned skin (cold water is okay for small burns, but could cause shock)
|-
| toxic fumes can be generated when heating certain materials ||
* take care of good ventilation and don't inhale the fumes
* get familiar with your materials, e.g. the type of [[solder]] you're using or the kind of paint you're removing - for instance, does it contain poisonous lead?
|-
| [[File:Danger_-_sudden_start.svg|left|50px]] no prevention of turning on after loss & restoration of power (keine Anlaufsicherung) || if the power has been lost for whatever reason, always switch off the button before restoring it!
|}

[[Category:Heat]]
[[Category:Introductions]]

Joinery Machine Introduction

2025-10-13T08:09:39Z

Johannes: add utis

This is the content required for an introduction to our [[Introduction for::Biscuit Joiner|biscuit joiners]] and [[Introduction for::Loose Tenon Joiner|loose tenon joiners]] - '''reading this does NOT replace the mandatory session with a [[tutor]]!''' It will make it a lot quicker though ;-)

If you need this introduction, please reach out to the following tutors: [[Tutor::User:Baumphil|Philip]], [[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]], [[Tutor::User:Lukas|Lukas]], [[Tutor::User:Utis|Utis]]

First off, make sure you have read the respective machine's manual:
* [https://media.bahag.com/assets/11/08/1108343_22120348.pdf Toolson PRO-DF 860]
* [https://www.bedienungsanleitu.ng/festool/df-500-q-set/anleitung Festool Domino DF 500]

== Safety ==
[[PPE|Personal protection]]: [[File:Protection - goggles.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - hearing.svg|50px]] [[File:Protection - no gloves.svg|50px]]

(a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]] could also be necessary depending on your material)

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dangers !! Precautions
|-
| exposed & rapidly spinning milling cutter
* will keep spinning for a few seconds after the tool is turned off
||
* do not engage the tool when not in contact with the workpiece
* do '''not''' wear [[gloves]] while operating the machine, they could get caught!
** however, gloves may protect your fingers during a cutter change (machine '''unplugged''')
* always check whether the tool movement you are planning is possible '''before''' turning it on - adjust depth if necessary
|-
| flying splinters and dust ||
* wear [[goggles]], a [[Dust Mask|dust mask]] could also be necessary depending on your material
* hook up a shop vac, if possible
** otherwise attach a dust collection bag & keep it clean
* make sure there is nobody nearby who might be surprised by a piece of shrapnel flying their way!
|-
| the tool might move due to the force of the milling cutter|| always hold the machine in both hands (handle and "tail") and only push into the wood slowly
|-
| no prevention of turning on after loss & restoration of power ''(keine Anlaufsicherung)'' || if the power has been lost for whatever reason, make sure the machine is turned off before restoring it!
|-
| [[File:danger - heat.svg|50px]] the cutter gets extremely hot
* can potentially set the sawdust on fire
* remains hot for a while after using
|| take breaks, be careful when you need to change the cutter
|}
''Special note from the Festool company: Reliable setting of the dowel-hole width with the rotary switch [1‑2] '''is only possible with the machine running'''!''

== Demonstration ==
The tutor will show you these steps with one of the machines:
* selecting [[biscuit]] or [[Loose Tenon|loose tenon]] size
** make yourself familiar with [https://www.bauhaus.info/suche/produkte?text=craftomat+flachd%C3%BCbel different biscuit sizes (0, 10, 20)] and loose tenon options during the planning stage of your project!
* setting the cut depth according to the selected biscuit/tenon option
** Festool Domino DF 500: you also need to set the cutting width according to the your tenon & cutter
* setting the cutting height
** the height ruler refers to the center of the cutter, so you do '''not''' need to subtract its thickness
* setting the cutting angle
* aligning the tool with your workpiece
* working on vertical cuts: compared to horizontal cuts (into the workpiece edge), the machine is much more likely to slide around! Clamp down a temporary fence for accuracy
* practice cut!

[[Category:Introductions]]

Pyrography Burners

2025-10-03T17:54:47Z

Johannes: add Category Heat

{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Pyrography Burners
|image=Pyrographstation.jpg
|synonyms=pyrograph; DE: Brandkolben, Brandmalkolben, Brennkolben, "Brenn-Peter", Elektroschreiber
|status=
|location=
|material=[[wood]], [[cork]], [[leather]]
|similar=branding irons, encaustic pens ''(Wachsmalkolben)''; [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]
|extrabox=yes
}}
A pyrography burner can be used to burn freehand drawings and small patterns into wood, e.g. for marking or decorational purposes. Using a [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] is much easier for intricate designs.

Although many of these burners look like a [[Soldering Irons|soldering iron]], please refrain from using one for soldering - remains of charred wood in your solder will not exactly improve the connections and remains of solder may taint the pyrography.

== Health & Safety ==
* only solid untreated wood, cork or leather should be burned with this tool as other materials may release harmful fumes (see [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrography Wikipedia])
* make sure you have good ventilation even if "your" fumes are not especially harmful
* obviously, the burner gets hot and should not be touched while plugged in or shortly after
** use a metal stand to rest the tool when it is hot
* regularly check the fit of your tip - especially the screw-in tips of cheap models often don't stay in properly, but we won't invest in a fancier burner until we see how popular the technique is

== Use ==
Sketching your design in [[pencil]] beforehand is always a good idea, and scribing it with a [[Pricking Awl|pricking awl]] may help you guide the burner along its lines.

Move the burner along its path until you achieved the desired look - the slower, the darker!

== Example Project ==
This shelf was decorated with a pyrography burner:
[[File:pyrography - shelf.JPG|400 px|frameless|left]]

 

{{#ask:
[[MachineType::Pyrography Burner]]
|order=descending
|format=embedded
|embedonly=yes
}}

== Further Reading ==
*[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrography Wikipedia: Pyrography] - inspiration for the really artsy ones; list of inappropriate materials

[[Category:Marking & Measuring]]
[[Category:Woodworking]]
[[Category:Heat]]

Network

2025-08-13T15:53:57Z

Johannes:

From a physical perspective, the network at the CoMakingSpace is built up as follows:
<mermaid> graph LR
subgraph lan [LAN]
A[CommonRoom Fritz!Box] --> B[E-Room Access Point]
A --> H[Office Router]
A --> N[Canon MF752Cdw]
A --> J[Wood Workshop Access Point]
click A "http://fritz.box" _blank
click I "http://homeassistant.local:8123" _blank
end

subgraph workshop[Wood Workshop-LAN]
J --> P[Logo-Felder_RL_160]

end
subgraph eroom [E-Room-LAN]
B --> WCNC1(Workbee CNC)
click WCNC1 "https://workbeecnc.fritz.box" _blank
B --> WCNC2(Workbee CNC Tablet)
B --> O(Epilog Legend 36Ext)
B --> I[HomeAssistant]

end
subgraph wlan [WLAN]
A -.-> D(Laser PC)
A -.-> E(Slicing PC)
A -.-> F(P7)
A -.-> G(P8)
A -.-> K(ESPHome_Garbage_Sign)
A -.-> M(Trash Tracker)
A -.-> L(prusa-link)
end
style wlan fill:#6dc8fc
</mermaid>

The main Fritz!Box provides IPs within the 10.0.0.0/8

The DHCP Server provides dynamic IP adresses for clients in the range 10.100.0.0 - 10.100.255.255

All other IP Adresses are static adresses and listed below

===Network Infrastructure===
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Device
!IP
|-
| Common Room Fritz!Box
|10.0.0.1
|-
|Office Fritz!Box
|10.0.0.2
|-
|Wood Workshop Access Point
|10.0.0.3
|-
|E-Room Access Point
|none
|}

===IoT-related devices===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Homeassistant
|10.1.0.1
|-
|Buzzer - E-Room to Workshop
|
|-
|Buzzer - Workshop to E-Room
|
|-
|Shelly - RouterTable (COMS00154)
|10.1.0.6
|-
|Shelly - Felder AF 14 (COMS00073)
|10.1.0.7
|-
|Shelly - Festool CTM26 E AC (COMS00021) (Chip)
|10.1.0.8
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00159)
|10.1.0.9
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00158)
|10.1.0.10
|-
|Logo-LaserAbluft
|10.1.0.11
|-
|ESPHome_Garbage_Sign
|10.1.0.12
|-
|Trash Tracker
|10.1.0.13
|-
|Logo-Felder_RL_160
|10.1.0.14
|}

=== Machines===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Laser PC
|10.2.0.1
|-
|Slicing PC
|10.2.0.2
|-
|[[Workbee]] CNC Router
|10.2.0.3
|-
|Workbee CNC Tablet
|10.2.0.4
|-
|BambuLab ([[P7]])
|10.2.0.5
|-
|BambuLab ([[P8]])
|10.2.0.6
|-
|[[HP LaserJet 8150DN|<s>LaserJet Laser Printer</s>]]
|<s>10.2.0.7</s>
|-
|prusa-link
|10.2.0.8
|-
|epilog legend 36ext
|10.2.0.9
|-
|[[Laser Printers|Canon MF752Cdw]]
|10.2.0.10
|}

===Configuration Changes ===

If you need to change settings for the FritzBox Router (providing the CoMakingSpace network) or any of the Raspberry Pis, please contact {{IT-manager}}.

[[Category:Facilities]]
[[Category:Raspberry Pi]]

Network

2025-08-13T15:45:30Z

Johannes: /* IoT-related devices */ add felder LOGO

From a physical perspective, the network at the CoMakingSpace is built up as follows:
<mermaid> graph LR
subgraph lan [LAN]
A[CommonRoom Fritz!Box] --> B[E-Room Access Point]
A --> H[Office Router]
A --> N[Canon MF752Cdw]
A --> J[Wood Workshop Access Point]
click A "http://fritz.box" _blank
click I "http://homeassistant.local:8123" _blank
end
subgraph eroom [E-Room-LAN]
B --> WCNC1(Workbee CNC)
click WCNC1 "https://workbeecnc.fritz.box" _blank
B --> WCNC2(Workbee CNC Tablet)
B --> O(Epilog Legend 36Ext)
B --> I[HomeAssistant]

end
subgraph wlan [WLAN]
A -.-> D(Laser PC)
A -.-> E(Slicing PC)
A -.-> F(P7)
A -.-> G(P8)
A -.-> K(ESPHome_Garbage_Sign)
A -.-> M(Trash Tracker)
A -.-> L(prusa-link)
end
style wlan fill:#6dc8fc
</mermaid>

The main Fritz!Box provides IPs within the 10.0.0.0/8

The DHCP Server provides dynamic IP adresses for clients in the range 10.100.0.0 - 10.100.255.255

All other IP Adresses are static adresses and listed below

===Network Infrastructure===
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Device
!IP
|-
| Common Room Fritz!Box
|10.0.0.1
|-
|Office Fritz!Box
|10.0.0.2
|-
|Wood Workshop Access Point
|10.0.0.3
|-
|E-Room Access Point
|none
|}

===IoT-related devices===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Homeassistant
|10.1.0.1
|-
|Buzzer - E-Room to Workshop
|
|-
|Buzzer - Workshop to E-Room
|
|-
|Shelly - RouterTable (COMS00154)
|10.1.0.6
|-
|Shelly - Felder AF 14 (COMS00073)
|10.1.0.7
|-
|Shelly - Festool CTM26 E AC (COMS00021) (Chip)
|10.1.0.8
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00159)
|10.1.0.9
|-
|Shelly - Record Power AC400 (COMS00158)
|10.1.0.10
|-
|Logo-LaserAbluft
|10.1.0.11
|-
|ESPHome_Garbage_Sign
|10.1.0.12
|-
|Trash Tracker
|10.1.0.13
|-
|Logo-Felder_RL_160
|10.1.0.14
|}

=== Machines===
{| class="wikitable"
!Device
!IP
|-
| Laser PC
|10.2.0.1
|-
|Slicing PC
|10.2.0.2
|-
|[[Workbee]] CNC Router
|10.2.0.3
|-
|Workbee CNC Tablet
|10.2.0.4
|-
|BambuLab ([[P7]])
|10.2.0.5
|-
|BambuLab ([[P8]])
|10.2.0.6
|-
|[[HP LaserJet 8150DN|<s>LaserJet Laser Printer</s>]]
|<s>10.2.0.7</s>
|-
|prusa-link
|10.2.0.8
|-
|epilog legend 36ext
|10.2.0.9
|-
|[[Laser Printers|Canon MF752Cdw]]
|10.2.0.10
|}

===Configuration Changes ===

If you need to change settings for the FritzBox Router (providing the CoMakingSpace network) or any of the Raspberry Pis, please contact {{IT-manager}}.

[[Category:Facilities]]
[[Category:Raspberry Pi]]

Fnirsi HRM-10

2025-06-12T20:43:24Z

Johannes:

== Fnirsi HRM-10 ==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Fnirsi HRM‑10
|german=
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=205
}}

=== Overview ===
The Fnirsi HRM‑10 is a compact, handheld meter designed to measure both battery voltage (up to ±100 V DC) and internal resistance (0–200 Ω) with high precision

=== Key Features ===

* Voltage range: 0 to ±100 V DC (auto and 1 V/10 V/100 V ranges)
* Resistance range: 0 Ω to 200 Ω (auto, 20 mΩ to 200 Ω scales)
* True Kelvin 4‑wire connector with 1 kHz AC test signal for milliohm-level precision
* Pass/Fail mode with threshold settings and data storage/export
* USB‑C port for charging, and CSV data transfer

=== Use Cases ===

==== Battery health testing: ====
Internal resistance increases as batteries age. A high resistance reading—even if voltage looks okay—can mean the battery is no longer reliable under load.

=== User Notes ===
The Kelvin‑lead clamps must not touch each other when measuring, to ensure correct readings

Fluke 175 RMS

2025-06-12T20:38:55Z

Johannes: /* Fluke 175 RMS */

==Fluke 175 RMS==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Fluke 175 RMS
|german=Multimeter
|image=Multimeter.jpg
|synonyms=
|manual=
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=13
}}

=== Overview ===
The Fluke 175 is a reliable and accurate digital multimeter.

=== Key Features ===

* Measurement functions:
* AC/DC Voltage up to 1000 V
* AC/DC Current up to 10 A
* Resistance, Continuity, Diode Test, Capacitance, Frequency
* CAT III 1000 V / CAT IV 600 V Safety Rated

=== Usage Tips ===
Always start on the highest range to avoid damaging the meter.
Use the correct input jacks and function dial position.
Be cautious when working near high voltage.

=== Note: ===
Handle with care—this is precision equipment. Return it to its storage case after use.

Fluke 175 RMS

2025-06-12T20:22:07Z

Johannes: /* Fluke 175 RMS */

Multimeters

2025-06-12T19:55:59Z

Johannes:

{{ToolInfoBox
|tool name=Multimeters
|german=Multimeter|image=Multimeter.jpg
|synonyms=multitesters; DE: Vielfachmessgeräte
|type=[[measuring]] tool
|access=read this page
|location=[[Location::Electronics Room|electronics room]]
|material=circuits, [[Electronic Components|electronic components]]
|tutors=[[Tutor::User:Pakue|Patrick]]
}}
Multimeters are an essential tool for working with [[electronics]]. They are used – as the name suggests – to measure various values of a circuit like:

* voltage – unit ''Volt'' (V)
* current – unit ''Ampere'' (A)
* resistance – unit ''Ohm'' (Ω)
* frequency – unit ''Hertz'' (Hz)
* capacitance - unit ''Farad'' (F)
* diode test – voltage needed to overcome the PN-gap

It is important to be aware of '''[[Multimeters#How to Measure|how to]]''' measure a certain value properly without interfering or even damaging the multimeter or the circuit. All multimeters have different inputs for measuring current and voltage. The voltage input is protected with a high input impedance (> 1 MΩ). When measuring current, the leads act as a '''dead short''' so be very careful when using this mode and always plug the '''leads back into the voltage input''' so another person can't accidentally short a circuit when using the multimeter.

==How to Measure==
# think about what value you want to measure (voltage, current, resistance, …)
# check if the leads are connected to the right input (black to COM and red to relevant input)
# turn the dial to the correct mode
## select the right range (e.g. mV, V) - newer multimeters may have an autorange feature so they select the right range on their own as long as the correct input socket is used
# hold the leads to the two points you want to measure
# done!

 

{{#ask:
[[MachineType::{{PAGENAME}}]]
|order=ascending
|format=embedded
|embedonly=yes
}}
[[Category:Electronics]]
[[Category:Marking & Measuring]]

Fnirsi HRM-10

2025-06-12T19:53:22Z

Johannes: /* Key Features */

==Fnirsi HRM-10==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Fnirsi HRM‑10
|german=
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=205
}}

=== Overview ===
The Fnirsi HRM‑10 is a compact, handheld meter designed to measure both battery voltage (up to ±100 V DC) and internal resistance (0–200 Ω) with high precision

=== Key Features ===

* Voltage range: 0 to ±100 V DC (auto and 1 V/10 V/100 V ranges)
* Resistance range: 0 Ω to 200 Ω (auto, 20 mΩ to 200 Ω scales)
* True Kelvin 4‑wire connector with 1 kHz AC test signal for milliohm-level precision
* Pass/Fail mode with threshold settings and data storage/export
* USB‑C port for charging, and CSV data transfer

=== Use Cases ===

==== Battery health testing: ====
Internal resistance increases as batteries age. A high resistance reading—even if voltage looks okay—can mean the battery is no longer reliable under load.

=== User Notes ===
The Kelvin‑lead clamps must not touch each other when measuring, to ensure correct readings

Fnirsi HRM-10

2025-06-12T19:51:50Z

Johannes: Created page with "=={{subst:PAGENAME}}== {{MachineInfoBox |machine name=Fnirsi HRM‑10 |german= |image= |synonyms= |manual= |material= |used with= |similar= |software= |firmware= |assetid=205 }} === Overview === The Fnirsi HRM‑10 is a compact, handheld meter designed to measure both battery voltage (up to ±100 V DC) and internal resistance (0–200 Ω) with high precision === Key Features === * Voltage range: 0 to ±100 V DC (auto and 1 V/10 V/100 V ranges) * Resistance..."

==Fnirsi HRM-10==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Fnirsi HRM‑10
|german=
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=205
}}

=== Overview ===
The Fnirsi HRM‑10 is a compact, handheld meter designed to measure both battery voltage (up to ±100 V DC) and internal resistance (0–200 Ω) with high precision

=== Key Features ===

* Voltage range: 0 to ±100 V DC (auto and 1 V/10 V/100 V ranges)
* Resistance range: 0 Ω to 200 Ω (auto, 20 mΩ to 200 Ω scales)
* Accuracy: ±0.5% for both voltage and resistance
* True Kelvin 4‑wire connector with 1 kHz AC test signal for milliohm-level precision
* Pass/Fail mode with threshold settings and data storage/export
* USB‑C port for charging, and CSV data transfer

=== Use Cases ===

==== Battery health testing: ====
Internal resistance increases as batteries age. A high resistance reading—even if voltage looks okay—can mean the battery is no longer reliable under load.

=== User Notes ===
The Kelvin‑lead clamps must not touch each other when measuring, to ensure correct readings

Fluke 175 RMS

2025-06-12T19:21:02Z

Johannes:

Fluke 175 RMS

2025-06-12T19:20:03Z

Johannes: Created page with "=={{subst:PAGENAME}}== {{MachineInfoBox |machine name={{subst:PAGENAME}} |german=Multimeter |image=Multimeter.jpg |synonyms= |manual= |material= |used with= |similar= |software= |firmware= |assetid=13 }}Overview The Fluke 175 is a reliable and accurate digital multimeter. === Key Features === * Measurement functions: * AC/DC Voltage up to 1000 V * AC/DC Current up to 10 A * Resistance, Continuity, Diode Test, Capacitance, Frequency * CAT III 1000 V / CAT IV 600 V Safet..."

==Fluke 175 RMS==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Fluke 175 RMS
|german=Multimeter
|image=Multimeter.jpg
|synonyms=
|manual=
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=13
}}Overview
The Fluke 175 is a reliable and accurate digital multimeter.

=== Key Features ===

* Measurement functions:
* AC/DC Voltage up to 1000 V
* AC/DC Current up to 10 A
* Resistance, Continuity, Diode Test, Capacitance, Frequency
* CAT III 1000 V / CAT IV 600 V Safety Rated

=== Usage Tips ===
Always start on the highest range to avoid damaging the meter.
Use the correct input jacks and function dial position.
Be cautious when working near high voltage.

=== Note: ===
Handle with care—this is precision equipment. Return it to its storage case after use.

SilberGleit

2025-06-12T19:03:36Z

Johannes:

=== What is Silbergleit? ===
{{ToolInfoBox|tool name=Silbergleit|german=Silbergleit|image=Silbergleit.jpg|used with=[[Jointer-Planer]], [[Sliding Table Saw]]|location=Cold Metal Area}}
Silbergleit is a non-stick, silicone-free sliding agent often used in woodworking. It comes in a creamy paste or spray form and helps reduce friction between wood and machine surfaces.

=== Why use it? ===
Applying Silbergleit to machine tables makes wood glide more smoothly, reducing resistance and effort when pushing workpieces. It also protects metal surfaces from rust without leaving any sticky or oily residue.

Where to use it:

* [[Jointer-Planer]]: Apply a thin layer to the infeed and outfeed tables to make feeding long boards easier and more consistent.
* [[Sliding Table Saw]]: Use on the saw table to reduce drag and improve control during cuts.

How to apply:

* Make sure the surface is clean and dry.
* Apply a small amount of Silbergleit using a cloth or sponge.
* Let it sit briefly, then buff it with a clean cloth.
* Reapply as needed, especially if the surface starts to feel sticky or rough again.

=== Safety note: ===
Do not apply it to any parts where grip is needed (e.g., feed rollers) or close to blades where it could affect cutting performance.

Hammer A3-31

2025-06-12T19:00:32Z

Johannes: add SilberGleit

==Hammer A3-31==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Hammer A3-31
|german=Abricht- und Dickenhobelmaschine
|image=Hammer A3-31.jpg
|synonyms=planer-thicknesser, power jointer, thickness planer; DE: Abricht- und Dickenhobelmaschine, "Abrichte", "Dickte"
|type=Jointer-Planer
|status=working; [https://github.com/comakingspace/do-something/issues/243 blades beginning to show nicks ''(Scharten)'']
|location=[[Location::Wood Workshop|wood workshop]]
|material=naturally structured [[wood]] (not more [[Engineered Woods|engineered]] than [[Glulam|glued laminated timber]]!)
|manual=[http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/01431_504010-901_01_1202_HA_BA_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_GER_Lo.pdf felder-gruppe.at (DE)], [http://maschinen.felder-gruppe.at/uploads/document/Manual_A3-26_A3-31_A3-41_EUS_enc.pdf (EN)]
|assetid=68|donation=
|similar=[[Jointer Plane|jointer plane]], [[planer]]
|used with=[[Push Block|push block]] '''with lip''', [[Dust Extractor|dust extractor]], [[SilberGleit]]
}}

We chose to get a combination jointer/planer to save valuable space: thanks to the second flat surface ''under'' this cutting drum, you can also thickness boards with this machine! You can therefore [[Material:Wood#Buying Rough-Sawn Wood|buy rough-sawn wood]] and dimension it at the CoMakingSpace.

[[File:Hammer A3-31 - Werkstückmaße.svg|400 px|thumb|left|possible workpiece dimensions]]

 
===Jointing===
[[File:jointer - fingers together.JPG|thumb|200px|right|when moving a workpiece over the [[jointer]], your fingers should always remain close together and far from the blades]]
Jointing (using the top table of the machine) creates flat, perpendicular surfaces. Flawless edges are especially important for glue-ups, e.g. to make your own [[glulam|glued laminated timber]] panels!

You should check the fence for squareness against the table, e.g. with a [[square]] or [[inclinometer]]. Advanced users may also try to joint at other angles than 90°.

A square fence is not ''absolutely'' required for a good glue-up joint: if you can't improve squareness (or want to play it safe either way), try varying the orientation of each board's edges as you joint them. If all your "left" edges are off-square in one direction and all the "right" ones are the opposite, you will still get a perfectly '''matching''', but not square, joint ([https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=C9scpxNqb40&t=1m12s video]).
 

'''Pieces for jointing need to be AT LEAST 10 mm high and AT MOST 310 mm wide.'''

===Planing===
[[File:planer - angled infeed.JPG|thumb|200px|angled infeed as one way to mitigate snipe]]
If you flip the top of the machine back, you're able to feed a workpiece ''under'' the knives to plane its top surface. Thereby you can obtain a board with parallel faces and dial in its thickness exactly as you want. Make sure you fully [https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/understanding-grain-direction/ understand grain direction] or you'll easily get tearout!

Feeding boards through at a slight angle may help to avoid "snipe" ''(Hobelschläge)'' but you should be prepared to cut off unsightly ends afterwards - i.e., plane oversized boards and cut them to length as the next step.

'''Pieces for planing need to be AT LEAST 4 mm high and 160 mm long and AT MOST 250 mm high or 306 mm wide.'''

===Accessories===
====Dust Evacuation====
The planer should only be used in tandem with a suitable [[Dust Evacuation|dust evacuation]] system. The intended machine for this purpose is the [[Felder AF 14]], that should be in close proximity to the planer. The system should be hooked up through the automated switch box (switched output) mounted on the metal frame, that should also be connected to the planer (trigger output). Once the planer is started the vacuum system will turn on after 3 seconds and turn off once the planer is off for 8 seconds. Make sure to set the switch on the vacuum motor to '1' (ON) before starting!

SilberGleit

2025-06-12T18:59:13Z

Johannes:

=== What is Silbergleit? ===
{{ToolInfoBox|tool name=Silbergleit|german=Silbergleit|image=Silbergleit.jpg|material=Jointer-Planer|location=Cold Metal Area}}
Silbergleit is a non-stick, silicone-free sliding agent often used in woodworking. It comes in a creamy paste or spray form and helps reduce friction between wood and machine surfaces.

=== Why use it? ===
Applying Silbergleit to machine tables makes wood glide more smoothly, reducing resistance and effort when pushing workpieces. It also protects metal surfaces from rust without leaving any sticky or oily residue.

Where to use it:

* Planer (Abrichte): Apply a thin layer to the infeed and outfeed tables to make feeding long boards easier and more consistent.
* Table Saw (Formatkreissäge): Use on the saw table to reduce drag and improve control during cuts.

How to apply:

* Make sure the surface is clean and dry.
* Apply a small amount of Silbergleit using a cloth or sponge.
* Let it sit briefly, then buff it with a clean cloth.
* Reapply as needed, especially if the surface starts to feel sticky or rough again.

=== Safety note: ===
Do not apply it to any parts where grip is needed (e.g., feed rollers) or close to blades where it could affect cutting performance.

SilberGleit

2025-06-12T18:58:42Z

Johannes:

SilberGleit

2025-06-12T18:57:15Z

Johannes: Created page with "=== What is Silbergleit? === {{ToolInfoBox|tool name=Silbergleit|german=Silbergleit|image=Silbergleit.jpg|material=Jointer-Planer|location=Cold Metal Area}} Silbergleit is a non-stick, silicone-free sliding agent often used in woodworking. It comes in a creamy paste or spray form and helps reduce friction between wood and machine surfaces. === Why use it? === Applying Silbergleit to machine tables makes wood glide more smoothly, reducing resistance and effort when pushi..."

=== What is Silbergleit? ===
{{ToolInfoBox|tool name=Silbergleit|german=Silbergleit|image=Silbergleit.jpg|material=Jointer-Planer|location=Cold Metal Area}}
Silbergleit is a non-stick, silicone-free sliding agent often used in woodworking. It comes in a creamy paste or spray form and helps reduce friction between wood and machine surfaces.

=== Why use it? ===
Applying Silbergleit to machine tables makes wood glide more smoothly, reducing resistance and effort when pushing workpieces. It also protects metal surfaces from rust without leaving any sticky or oily residue.

Where to use it:

Planer (Abrichte): Apply a thin layer to the infeed and outfeed tables to make feeding long boards easier and more consistent.

Table Saw (Formatkreissäge): Use on the saw table to reduce drag and improve control during cuts.

How to apply:

Make sure the surface is clean and dry.

Apply a small amount of Silbergleit using a cloth or sponge.

Let it sit briefly, then buff it with a clean cloth.

Reapply as needed, especially if the surface starts to feel sticky or rough again.

=== Safety note: ===
Do not apply it to any parts where grip is needed (e.g., feed rollers) or close to blades where it could affect cutting performance.

File:Silbergleit.jpg

2025-06-12T18:54:04Z

Johannes:

== Licensing ==
{{CC-by-sa-4.0}}

PHILIPS GC 8280

2025-05-16T07:10:17Z

Johannes: /* PHILIPS GC 8280 */

==PHILIPS GC 8280==

{{MachineInfoBox|machine name=PHILIPS GC 8280|german=Bügeleisen|image=PHILIPS GC 8280.jpeg|assetid=197|synonyms=Flatiron, Dampfbügelstation|manual=https://www.manualslib.de/manual/129209/Philips-Gc-8280.html|type=Flatiron|material=Material:Fabric}}

Voltcraft 8202

2025-04-28T16:08:46Z

Johannes: /* Voltcraft FG-506 */

==Voltcraft FG-506==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Voltcraft 8202
|german=Funktionsgenerator
|image=Voltcraft_8202.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Funktionsgenerator
|type=Function Generator
|location=[[Location::Electronics Area]]
|firmware=
|assetid=206
|manual=[https://www.manualslib.de/manual/349792/Voltcraft-8202.html DE/EN]
|used with=
|similar=
}}
 
[[Category:Electronics]]

Laserscript LS6090

2025-04-24T17:19:06Z

Johannes:

==Laserscript LS6090==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Laserscript LS6090
|german=Laserschneider
|image=Laserscript_LS6090.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Laserschneider, "Lasercutter"
|type=Laser Cutter
|status=working
|location=[[Location::Laser Area]]
|material=[[wood]], [[Material:Glass|glass]], [[Material:Acrylic Glass|acrylic glass]], ... ([[Laser Cutter#Possible Materials (Cutting/Engraving)|list of cuttable & engravable materials]]; [[Laser Cutter#Possible Materials (Engraving Only)|list of only engravable materials]])
|software=[[Lasercut 5.3]]
|assetid=57|manual=printed copy at the machine
|used with=[[Laser Exhaust System|laser exhaust system]], [[Water Chiller|water chiller]]
}}

===General Information===
* power: 80 Watt
* worktable size: 60x90 cm (length x width), engraving a bit smaller
** Z axis (height): 23 cm
* distributor: HPC Lasers

=== Cost ===
The tube and filters need to be replaced from time to time which will add up to several hundred €.

Therefore, an appropriate user contribution is '''20 ct per minute''' which you should please throw into the obvious cash box immediately or in advance.

=== Machine Control ===
The machine itself is mainly operated by the control panel located on the right side of the machine:

[[File:LS6090 Control 1.JPG|thumb|left]]
====Homing====
When you turn on the machine, please press the "Datum" button in order to Home the machine. This is needed so that the machine knows where the laser is located after a restart. The laser will move to the upper right corner of the machine.

====Moving the Laser====
In order to move the laser to the starting point of your job, please ensure that you are in the main menu and no option is being highlighted. This can be achieved by pressing "ESC" until you see the following:
[[File:LS6090 Control Movement Possible.JPG|thumb|Movements are possible if nothing is highlighted]]

Now you can move the laser by pressing the directional buttons.

'''Jog Speed'''

In case the laser is moving too much or too little with each button press, please go to the jog set menu by using the following key combination: ''Menu --> Down --> Down --> Enter''

In this menu, you can set the jog distance. Please confirm the new distance by pressing Enter.

====Starting the Job====
After uploading your job to the machine (see [[LaserCut_5.3#Uploading_your_Job]] for details), you can start the job by pressing "Start / Pause". The same button will also pause your job in between if needed.

====Setting the Focus====

In order to set the focus of the laser, please put your workpiece on the tray and put the focus finder (little black 3D printed thingy) on top of it. Now, move the laser above the focus finder and move the tray up (by pressing "up") until you can barely slide the focus finder through the gap. The focus is now set to the surface of your workpiece.

=== Troubleshooting ===

==== Laser keeps starting at the same (wrong) position ====
Sometimes, the starting point of the laser cutter gets set to a fixed position by accident.

While we are not yet entirely sure '''how''' this happens, here's how to fix it:

# Make sure the laser cutter is in the following condition (press <code>Esc</code> until the File name gets a grey background):[[File:Laser homing fix.png|none|thumb]]
# Press <code>'''⏎'''</code> so that a new menu opens
# Select "Cancel" and confirm with <code>'''⏎'''</code>
And make sure the checkbox "Immediate" is checked.
[[File:LaserCut Control Panel Immediate.jpg|left|thumb|200x200px|Immediate checkbox]]

File:LaserCut Control Panel Immediate.jpg

2025-04-24T17:15:59Z

Johannes:

== Licensing ==
{{CC-by-sa-4.0}}

Nietmutternzange

2025-04-23T08:51:21Z

Johannes:

== '''Nietmutternzange''' ==
{{ToolInfoBox|tool name=Nietmutternzange|german=Nietmutternzange|material=metal|location=Cold Metal Area}}

Eine Nietmutternzange ist ein Werkzeug, das verwendet wird, um Nietmuttern in Materialien wie Metall oder Kunststoff zu befestigen, sodass in einem zweiten Schritt das dann vorhandene Gewinde genutzt werden kann, um eine Gewindeschraube anzubringen. Dabei wird die Nietmutter mit vorgefertigtem Gewinde in ein passendes Loch im Werkstück eingeführt und dann mittels der Zange im Werkstück festgeklemmt.

=== Anwendung ===
1. Um eine sichere Handhabung des Werkzeuges beim Verarbeiten von verschiedenen Nietmuttern zu gewährleisten, muss der zur Nietmutterngröße passende Gewindedorn inkl. Mundstück montiert werden. Zur Verfügung stehen im bestehenden Set Nietmuttern in den Größen M3-M10 und die entsprechenden Gewindedorne und Mundstücke.

2. Die Nietmutter wird vollständig auf den Gewindedorn aufgeschraubt. Es ist darauf zu achten, dass der Gewindedorn mindestens einen Gewindegang aus der Nietmutter herausschaut. Ggf. ist die Länge des Gewindedorns mit Hilfe der Stellmutter zu justieren.
[[File:Pressung der Nietmutter.jpg|thumb]]
3. Sodann muss der zur Materialstärke passende Hub der Zange eingestellt werden. Es ist darauf zu achten, dass die Knautschzone der Nietmutter vollständig an das Blech gepresst ist. Gleichzeitig darf das Gewinde nicht durch zu viel Druck deformiert werden. Zur Einstellung des Zangenhubs empfehlen sich Probesetzungen, bei denen die Rückseite des verwendeten Blechs einsehbar ist und so die Verformung der Nietmutter überprüft werden kann.

Beeinflussen kannst du das Maß der Pressung einmal dadurch, dass du den Außenzylinder hoch oder runter schraubst, sodass die Nietmutter früher oder später auf das Mundstück prallt. Andererseits kannst du den Bewegungsradius der Zangenhebel variieren. Je weiter du die Hebel nach hinten ziehst, desto stärker die Pressung.

4. Beim Verpressen der Nietmutter ist darauf zu achten, dass die Zange gerade auf dem Blech sitzt, sodass die Gewindeachse der Zange im rechten Winkel zum Blech steht.

5. Nach der Setzung ist der Gewindedorn anhand des Stellknopfs aus der Nietmutter herauszudrehen.

=== Gewindedorn und Mundstück wechseln ===
Bewahre Gewindedorn und Mundstück immer als Paar zusammen in den passenden Dosen auf, sodass die unterschiedlichen Größen nicht durcheinander geraten.

1. Entferne das Mundstück vom Außenzylinder durch Drehen gegen den Uhrzeigersinn.

2. Löse die Kontermutter und entferne den Außenzylinder vom Hauptkörper durch Drehen gegen den Uhrzeigersinn.

3. Entferne den Gewindedorn von der Hauptwelle durch Drehen gegen den Uhrzeigersinn, während du die Feststellöse nach hinten ziehst.

4. Wähle das gewünschte Mundstück / Gewindedorn-Paar aus.

5. Installiere den Gewindedorn an der Hauptwelle durch Drehen im Uhrzeigersinn und ziehe diesen fest (Feststellöse erneut nach hinten ziehen).

6. Installiere den Außenzylinder mit der Kontermutter am Hauptkörper durch Drehen im Uhrzeigersinn. Stelle die richtige Tiefe ein und ziehe die Kontermutter fest.

7. Installiere das Mundstück am Außenzylinder und ziehe dieses fest.
[[File:Gewindedorn.jpg|alt=Reihenfolge der zu montierenden Teile: direkt auf den Hauptkörper der Zange aufgeschraubt (Feststellöse zurückziehen) wird der Gewindedorn (richtige Größe wählen). Danach folgt der Außenzylinder inkl. Kontermutter. Zuletzt kommt das Mundstück (richtige Größe beachten).|center|thumb|508x508px]]

=== Sicherheit ===
Schütze deine Augen vor abplatzenden Metallteilen mit einer Schutzbrille.

Clatronic KA 3094

2025-04-19T13:53:54Z

Johannes: add Asset ID

{{MachineInfoBox|machine name=Clatronic KA 3094|german=Kaffeemaschine|image=Clatronic.jpg|assetid=204|synonyms=DE: Kaffeemaschine|material=ground coffee}}

Our Kitchen is equipped with a basic Clatronic KA 3094 electronic drip coffee machine.

== Brewing Coffee ==

# Fill the water tank with as many cups of cold water as you want to prepare
# Fold the 1x4 filter paper at the lower seam and place it into the filter funnel
# Fill the filter paper with coffee powder (~ teaspoon per 2 cups)
# Switch on the machine
# wait for 10-15 minutes
# Remove pot when water stops flowing into the filter.
# Switch off the machine

== Descaling Notes ==

* Use only citric acid-based descaler. Follow recommended instructions.
* Boil and discard fresh water four times after descaling.
* Descale when brewing time increases substantially.

== General Notes ==

* The water tank and the filter holder can be removed for easier filling and cleaning.
* Bring your own coffee grounds. (Left-over grounds might exist in an unknown cupboard from an unknown date)
* The coffeemaker is provided with a drip stop. When you remove the pot it prevents water dripping onto the base. If water remains in the tank it will be pumped into the filter where it can overflow.

[[Category:Coffee]]

KORAD KA3005(1)

2025-04-17T21:11:57Z

Johannes:

==KORAD KA3005(1)==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=KORAD KA3005(1)
|german=Labornetzteil
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=[https://cdn-reichelt.de/documents/datenblatt/D400/2013-07-31_KA3005D_P_BDA.pdf cdn-reichelt.de]
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=186
}}

The Korad KA3005D is a digitally controlled linear DC power supply offering precise voltage and current regulation.

Key Features:

* Output Voltage: 1–30 V DC
* Output Current: 0–5 A
* Power Output: 150 W
* adjustment in 10 mV or 1 mA steps

KORAD KA3005(2)

2025-04-17T21:11:06Z

Johannes: /* KORAD KA3005(2) */

==KORAD KA3005(2)==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=KORAD KA3005(2)
|german=Labornetzteil
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=[https://cdn-reichelt.de/documents/datenblatt/D400/2013-07-31_KA3005D_P_BDA.pdf cdn-reichelt.de]
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=185
}}

The Korad KA3005D is a digitally controlled linear DC power supply offering precise voltage and current regulation.

Key Features:

* Output Voltage: 1–30 V DC
* Output Current: 0–5 A
* Power Output: 150 W
* adjustment in 10 mV or 1 mA steps

New Page

2025-04-17T20:58:48Z

Johannes: Redirected page to Create Page

#REDIRECT [[Create_Page]]

Voltcraft HPS-13015

2025-04-17T20:36:10Z

Johannes:

==Voltcraft HPS-13015==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=Voltcraft HPS-13015
|image=Voltcraft_HPS-13015.JPG
|synonyms=DE: Labornetzteil
|german=Labornetzteil
|type=Lab Power Supply
|material=
|location=[[Location::Electronics Area]]
|status=
|firmware=
|assetid=187
|software=
|manual=[https://asset.conrad.com/media10/add/160267/c1/-/de/000512306ML01/bedienungsanleitung-512306-voltcraft-hps-13030-labornetzgeraet-einstellbar-1-30-vdc-0-30-a-900-w-remote-anzahl-ausgaenge-1-x.pdf conrad.com]
|used with=
|similar=
}}

The Voltcraft HPS-13015 is a compact, high-performance laboratory power supply.

Key Features:

* Output Voltage: 1–30 V DC
* Output Current: 0–15 A
* Power Output: 450 W

KORAD KA3005(1)

2025-04-17T20:34:16Z

Johannes:

==KORAD KA3005(1)==
{{MachineInfoBox
|machine name=KORAD KA3005(1)
|german=
|image=
|synonyms=
|manual=https://cdn-reichelt.de/documents/datenblatt/D400/2013-07-31_KA3005D_P_BDA.pdf
|material=
|used with=
|similar=
|software=
|firmware=
|assetid=186
}}

The Korad KA3005D is a digitally controlled linear DC power supply offering precise voltage and current regulation.

Key Features:

* Output Voltage: 1–30 V DC
* Output Current: 0–5 A
* Power Output: 150 W
* adjustment in 10 mV or 1 mA steps