CoMakingSpace Wiki - User Contributions [en]

LaserCut 5.3

2026-09-23T08:59:26Z

Björn:

{{SoftwareInfoBox
|software name=LaserCut 5.3 ''or Lasercut 5.3''
|image=LaserCut53_entry.jpg
|type=[[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] driver/[[CAM]]
|platform='''Windows''' (XP, 7, 8, 10 [https://hpclaser.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LS6090-PRO-Data-Sheet-2019a.pdf])
|license=proprietary
|source=
|installed=laser PC
|input=[[PLT]], [[AI]], '''[[DXF]]''', [[DST]], [[BMP]], [[NC]], [[JPG]], [[GIF]], [[PNG]], [[TIF]], [[TGA]], [[PCX]]
|output=[[MOL]]
|users=[[Martin]]
}}
Lasercut 5.3 (aka "Laser system 5.3" in some installations) is required to prepare a design file for our [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]]. Its drawing functions are apparently quite terrible, so pretty much all users in forums etc. recommend to only use it for the very last steps!

If you are familiar with "our" previous laser cutter (the loaned Epilog Zing), this software will pretty much take over what you used to do with [[Visicut]].

LaserCut 5.3 is installed on a dedicated PC, which is located next to the [[Laser Cutter|laser cutter]] itself.

== Installation ==
We got a copy of LaserCut 5.3 from HPC Laser. You can get it from the orange USB drive located next to the laser cutter. However, the version we got does only work with the "soft dog" USB dongle, which ''will be'' attached permanently to the dedicated PC.

In order to prepare files on your own computer, you can install the software from another source. Most sources include an executable called "Lasercut53_Demo.exe" which can be used without the dongle but cannot operate the machine itself. The demo version also does not want you to save or open project files, but there are workarounds:
* '''saving''' is reportedly offered when closing the program
* '''opening''' of a finished project is best done with our full version at the Space, but also possible after some "terrible" exporting/re-importing [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/lasercut53personal]

In case you plan to do these, please make sure that you replace your syscfg.ini with the one shipped with our laser (can be found on the mentioned USB drive).

Installation notes:
* The software only natively works on Windows. Try [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/lasercut53personal Wine or other methods] at your own risk, but be aware it's 32-bit software
* The software must be installed in C:\LaserCut53 in order to work properly. There is a parameter in syscfg.ini which indicates the installation path. Changing it might get it to work from other locations as well but is untested. Try at your own risk.

==Setup==
===Setting the Worktable Size===
The first thing to do after installation is to check for the correct worktable size. Our laser has a size of 90x60 cm. Please ensure your worktable is set up correctly.

If it is not, you can change it by navigating to <code>File --> Machine Options</code> (or pressing Ctrl+J). 
In the new window, please navigate to "Worktable" and apply the following settings:
* X Axis [Range] 900.0
* Y Axis [Range] 600.0

When clicking "Save", it will most likely ask you for a password. Just hit "OK".

==Basic Usage==

===Zoom to All Objects===
[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToAllObjects.jpg|500px]]

Sometimes you need to ensure that all your objects are visible on the screen. To do so, please use <code>Zoom to all objects</code>

[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToAllObjects Result.jpg|500px]]

Note: You can use this tool in order to ensure all your objects are on the worktable. Objects outside the worktable will result in a soft stop of the laser.

===Zoom to Table===
[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToTable.jpg|500px]]

This tool is particulary helpful in case you zoomed in or out of your worktable and want to see the entire worktable centralized on your screen:

[[File:LaserCut53 ZoomToTable Result.jpg|500px]]

==Preparing a Job==
===Copy your file to the Laser PC===
You can either use a USB stick to copy your files to the Laser PC. The other option is to upload the files online. The online upload works not only in the CoSpace but as well from any device on the Internet. To upload your file use [[File_Drop]].

The file are later located in the folder "Laser Fileshare" which can be found in the Windows "Quick Access" folder.
===Import Your File===
The first thing you need to do is to import your drawing. You can do so by navigating to <code>File --> Import</code> or by pressing Crtl+I. The following [[File Formats|file formats]] are supported:
* [[Format:PLT|PLT]]
* [[Format:DXF|DXF]]
** [[Fusion 360]]: '''export''' the file. Do not just "save as".
** [[Inkscape]]: reportedly, the checkboxes "Use ROBO-Master type of spline output" and "Use LWPOLYLINE type of line output" need to be '''off''' when saving as DXF for LaserCut 5.3 [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/design-software] Save as R14 dxf not as R12.
** [[Format:AI|Adobe Illustrator:]] Adobe removed support for native '''DXF R14''' export in modern versions of Illustrator, leaving '''2000 / LT2000''' as the oldest available option. The 2000 format is the closest equivalent to R14 and will usually open without issues.

* [[Format:AI|AI]] (Adobe Illustrator)
* [[JPG]]
* [[GIF]]
* PNG
* BMP
* TIF
* DST
* NC
* TGA
* PCX

===Preparing the Cut Paths===
Once your file is imported, you will see the preview on the screen. The following tools might be handy when preparing your cut paths:

====Unite Lines====
[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines Before.jpg|500px|thumb|left|before uniting the lines]]
[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines After.jpg|500px|thumb|left|after uniting the lines]]

In case you just start your job without any further tuning, you might recognize that the laser follows an odd order of steps to cut your paths.

In order to streamline this, please select the paths of your model and navigate to <code>Tools --> Unite Lines</code>.

[[File:LaserCut53 UniteLines Options.jpg|500px]]

Note: The default value of 0.100 as the unite tolerance is usually a pretty good value to recognize lines belonging together.
 
====Output Order====
[[File:Lasercut_5.3_order.png|thumb|right|200px|"layers" can be prioritized by moving them up in this list]]
You often want to engrave before cutting as the cut parts can fall out of focus when they are separated from the rest of the material.

::'''easy way:''' select a "layer" in the list on the right and move it around with the <code>Up</code> or <code>Down</code> buttons (top is done first, bottom last)

You can also control the order of the cuts by navigating to <code>Tools --> Output Order</code>: In the new window, you will get a list of output layers, which you can put into the desired order by selecting them on the left and moving them to the right side of the window. 
If you are not sure which number corresponds to which cutting path, please note that you can select lines while having the output order window open.

==== Setting the Entry Point and Laser Origin====
<pre style="color: red"> ADD IMAGE: Menu Bar with highlighted button</pre>
You must verify the laser origin, do so in <code>Laser --> Set laser origin</code>. If, for example, you set it to "top right corner" then the software assumes that the physical laser is at the top right corner of your path. If the laser is in the lower left corner physically then you run into a soft stop since the laser would have to leave its work area.

Optionally, on each path you can select the entry point the laser will use by using the "Define cut route" tool. You can find this in the menu as <code>Laser --> Define cut route</code> or in the menu bar:

[[File:LaserCut53 DefineCutRoute.jpg|500px]]

Hint: If you press space when using this tool, a new window will open allowing you to edit some expert settings:

[[File:LaserCut53 DefineCutRoute Lead InOut Options.jpg|500px]]

==== Copy ====

Especially when mass processing something, you might want to copy your drawing multiple times. LaserCut offers a few different options to do so:
# Mark the paths, use CRTL-C and CTRL-V, then move the new paths
# Mark the paths, navigate to <code>Draw --> Copies</code> This will create actual copies of your object in an array which you can define. After the copies have been created, they are independent of each other and can be modified and moved seperately.
# Mark the paths, navigate to <code>Laser --> Array output options</code> This will allow you to laser your paths multiple times. Please note that the copies are not independent of each other and can only be moved together. Also, the same settings apply for all of them.

===Selecting the Laser Mode===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Mode !! Explanation
|-
| Cut || Cuts your material by following the defined vectors. You can also use this for vector engraving ("marking") by lowering the power.
|-
| Engrave || Engraves the shapes of your drawing into your material (similar to a printer).
With bitmap pictures, this will engrave dark parts of your picture into your workpiece ([[LaserCut_5.3#Simulating_Your_Job|simulate the job]] to avoid bad surprises!). Also see "[[Laser Engraving Photos]]" for advice on pre-processing these.

Caution: with vector drawings, this will engrave the entire area of your drawing into your workpiece.
|-
| Grade Engrave||Grade engraving will tell the laser to bevel the corners of your engraving. This should increase readability of letters for example.
|-
|Hole ||This setting is similar to cutting. It will follow the defined lines, but will only make little dots (holes) into your material.
|-
|Pen Cut||'''This setting seems to crash LaserCut 5.3 and is not documented in the manual.'''
|}

===Setting Power and Speed===
You can set the power and speed for each layer separately in the Control Panel:

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions.jpg|500px]]

Here you can select the desired mode by using the correspondent drop down menu.

Double-clicking on a layer will open the speed settings for the specific layer.
Please note that the options for cutting and engraving differ from each other:

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions CutOptions.jpg|500px|Options for cutting]]

[[File:LaserCut5.3 PowerOptions EngraveOptions.jpg|500px|Options for engraving]]

Please pay special attention to the "Corner Power". Usually you want to set this slightly lower than your regular power (too high and you might get "dogbone" curves instead of nice sharp corners).

=== Simulating Your Job===
To see how the laser will move, press the [[File:Simulate_Button.png]] on the far right of the toolbar or navigate to <code>Laser --> Simulate</code>: [[File:Simulate_Button_2.png]]

This is strongly recommended to avoid surprises that ruin your material!

===Estimating Work Time===
You may press the [[File:Estimate_Work_Time_Button.png]] button on the far right of the toolbar to estimate runtime (i.e. approximate cost) before starting the job.

However, please be aware that this estimate is usually a bit too low (the job will take longer in reality) and pay for the actual time needed in the end!

==Controlling the Laser==
In the following, "control panel" refers to this section on the right side of the screen: 
[[File:LaserCut Control Panel.jpg|x500px]]

===Homing===
In order to home the laser, please press <code>Datum</code>. <ref>Fun Fact: "Datum" is not a strange translation, but actually the correct term (see [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/datum#Noun Wiktionary])</ref>

Homing the laser will cause it to move into the upper right corner. Please always home the laser before you use it (it should happen automatically during start-up).

NOTE: You can also home the laser by pressing <code>Datum</code> on the control panel of the machine itself.

===Moving the Laser===
You will need to move the laser to its correct starting position, which you decided on when you prepared your job.

In order to do so, you can use the <code>X-</code>/<code>X+</code> and <code>Y-</code>/<code>Y+</code> buttons in LaserCut's control panel or the corresponding arrow keys on the machine.

Please note that you cannot control the Z height from within LaserCut. You will need to set the proper height on the machine itself!

===Uploading Your Job===
Once you are done with all preperation steps, you need to put your job on the machine. In order to do so, please press the <code>DownLoad</code> button in the control panel. This will open a window called "Stand-alone file manager":

[[File:Stand-alone_file_manager.png]]

In here, you can select your desired job and press <code>Download file</code>. You can usually just hit <code>Download current</code> to put the latest job onto the machine.

If you want to store this exact setup and machine data for further copies, you can export the data by pressing <code>Export file</code>. This will allow you to save it as a [[Format:MOL|.mol]] file.

===Starting and Stopping the Job ===
You can start the job in LaserCut or on the machine.

Please note that it is recommended to '''always control the job from the laser itself!'''

If you do have a valid reason to start it from LaserCut, please use the <code>Start</code> button on the control panel. You can also pause and stop the job by using the corresponding buttons.

Though you surely have simulated your job in the laser cut software, before you actually start your job you have two more levels of simulation. First you can press (with open lid) the test button on the laser panel, then the laser's red dot shows you the area where it will work. It is only the bounding box and this simulation is quite fast. This way you know that you really work on your material. Be aware that the red dot and the laser itself have a few mm offset, thus give it a bit room. If you press the button labeled "Laser" on the laser's control panel you can see where it shots a little hole and where that is compared to the red dot. The last level of simulation is to start your job with the laser's lid open. Doing this the actual laser is off, but the red dot moves exactly the path it would later run during actual operation.

== Further Reading ==
* ''[https://hpclaser.co.uk/lasercut5-3-software/ summary]'' by our [[laser]]'s retailer''
* [https://bristol.hackspace.org.uk/wiki/doku.php?id=equipment:a0_laser_cutter:prep Guide by the Bristol Hackspace]

[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

<references />

Format:DXF

2026-09-23T08:57:42Z

Björn:

{{FormatInfoBox
|format name=Drawing Interchange Format
|image=
|extension=.dxf
|type=2D [[CAD]]
|software=[[AutoCAD]], [[LaserCut 5.3]], [[Inkscape]], [[Autodesk Fusion]], [[Onshape]]
|machines=
|repositories=
}}
DXF (drawing interchange format) is a pretty old [https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/AutoCAD_DXF] file format to exchange 2D [[CAD]] files.

'''Caution:''' DXF files do not contain units of measurement! Make sure your import settings are correct.

== Export from Inkscape ==
Exporting DXF is a regular task you are faced with when using [[Inkscape]] for [[Laser Cutting|laser cutting]] because [[LaserCut 5.3]] does not accept [[SVG]] files.

* make sure to convert all objects (e.g. text) into paths
* <code>File --> Save as copy</code>: use DXF R14 if your program supports this
::''"Save as copy" should keep the original SVG intact in case you need to make adjustments to the design''
* reportedly, the checkboxes "Use ROBO-Master type of spline output" and "Use LWPOLYLINE type of line output" need to be '''off''' in the popup window that follows [http://wiki.makeitlabs.com/training/laser/design-software] [https://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/wiki/Inkscape#DXF_file_export_settings]

== Export from Adobe Illustrator ==
Adobe removed support for native '''DXF R14''' export in modern versions of Illustrator, leaving '''2000 / LT2000''' as the oldest available option. The 2000 format is the closest equivalent to R14 and will usually open without issues.

== Further Reading ==
* [https://www.mr-beam.org/en-gb/blogs/news/was-ist-eine-dxf-datei "Mr. Beam explains: What is a DXF file?"]

[[Category:Design]]

Airbrush Area

2026-09-23T08:50:49Z

Björn:

[[File:airbrush area.jpg|thumb|right|the airbrush area when it was opened in April 2024]]
The airbrush area is located in the [[Location::Electronics Room|electronics room]] and contains our [[airbrushing]] related tools and machines. Not just for creating beautiful airbrush art, but also for painting [[3DP|3D-printed]] models and other materials. Using an airbrush is easy, fun to learn – and a lot better for the environment than [[Spray Paint|spray cans]].

== Access ==
To use the machines in the airbrush area, you need to get an [[Airbrush Introduction|airbrush introduction]].

== Airbrush cleaning ==

===== '''Cleaning at the end of your session''' =====
Regardless how short or long the airbrush has been used. '''Properly cleaning the airbrush''' every time you finish using it is essential to keeping the airbrush working well and avoiding costly problems. Simply rinsing the airbrush with water or cleaning agent is '''not''' sufficient. The '''entire airbrush needs to be disassembled''' as demonstrated during the [[Airbrush Introduction|airbrush introduction]].

In order to make sure that paint doesn't transfer towards the rear of the airbrush:

# remove cap and nozzle first
# then '''push''' the needle out towards the front

Here's why thorough cleaning matters (in short: insufficient cleaning = expensive and/or airbrush will be unusable for a prolonged time)

* Dried paint '''will''' clog the airbrush: Even a small amount of leftover paint can dry inside the nozzle, needle, or internal passages. Once that happens, it creates blockages that restrict airflow. In some cases, the airbrush may stop working entirely until it's '''deep-cleaned''' — or '''parts replaced'''. The nozzle and its o-ring are the most sensitive parts and may get damaged during deep-cleaning. (Cost: '''€20-30'''; the o-rings are not available on their own).
* Skipping cleaning might feel faster in the moment, but fixing a clogged or damaged airbrush takes '''much''' longer. It can take hours trying to troubleshoot issues, disassemble tiny parts, or order replacements. 10-20 minutes of proper cleaning after every use saves a lot of frustration.

An airbrush is a precision tool — please treat it like one. Cleaning it properly '''every single time''' ensures it works when you (or others) need it.

===== '''Cleaning during your session:''' =====

* between changing colours: simply rinse the airbrush with a little bit of water or cleaning agent (window cleaner)
* if you pause your session (even if it's just for a few minutes)
** make sure the ink compartment is empty
** submerge the airbrush in water (yfor example a glass jar filled with water, placed inside one of the cutouts on the right hand side of the airbrush booth)

===Airbrush Colors===
Only water-based, dedicated airbrush paints are allowed to be used with our airbrushes.

If you'd like to use anything else than water-based, dedicated airbrush paints (for example solvent- or oil-based colours), you're free to bring your own personal airbrush and connect it to our compressor.

''See [[Material:Airbrush Paint]] for more information and experiences!''

===Spray Booth and Air Extraction===
Make sure you always have the spray booth's air extractor turned to on to "max Level" (Level 3) when the airbrush is in use (don't forget to use ear protection). The easiest method would be to keep the extractor running throughout your entire session, even if you take a break. That way, you don't forget to turn it on. Always keep the curtain behind you closed. Aerosols can travel for quite a long distance across the room, and we'd like to keep the other equipment free of paint. Once you've finished your session (whilst cleaning the airbrush): keep the air extractor running for a few more minutes and open the curtain and the door, to allow for additional air exchange in the room.

The spray booth we've built should be large enough to accomodate most needs, be it a A1-sized airbrush painting, or a t-shirt, shoes etc.

At the rear of the spray booth, you'll see a metal plate which can be tilted towards you, for a convenient viewing angle. For painting miniature figures / 3D-printed models etc: you'll find a turntable in one of the drawers. Also: Working with the airbrush is a lot more convenient if you lift your model up (to just below eye level). Positive side-effect: This also increases air ectraction efficiency.

== Airbrush Exercises ==
Here is a PDF with some basic airbrush exercises. Download, print and attach them to the backdrop in the spray booth. (Airbrushing onto a vertical canvas is easier than placing the canvas onto a horizontal surface). Even professional airbrush artists do warm-up exercises before they start a project.
[[File:Airbrush Practice Sheet.pdf|alt=Airbrush practice sheet|thumb|Airbrush practice sheet]]

[[Category:Airbrushing]]
[[Category:Facilities]]

Airbrush Area

2026-09-23T08:47:35Z

Björn:

[[File:airbrush area.jpg|thumb|right|the airbrush area when it was opened in April 2024]]
The airbrush area is located in the [[Location::Electronics Room|electronics room]] and contains our [[airbrushing]] related tools and machines. Not just for creating beautiful airbrush art, but also for painting [[3DP|3D-printed]] models and other materials. Using an airbrush is easy, fun to learn – and a lot better for the environment than [[Spray Paint|spray cans]].

== Access ==
To use the machines in the airbrush area, you need to get an [[Airbrush Introduction|airbrush introduction]].

== Airbrush cleaning ==

===== '''Cleaning at the end of your session''' =====
Regardless how short or long the airbrush has been used. '''Properly cleaning the airbrush''' every time you finish using it is essential to keeping the airbrush working well and avoiding costly problems. Simply rinsing the airbrush with water or cleaning agent is '''not''' sufficient. The '''entire airbrush needs to be disassembled''' as demonstrated during the [[Airbrush Introduction|airbrush introduction]].

Here's why thorough cleaning matters (in short: insufficient cleaning = expensive and/or airbrush will be unusable for a prolonged time)

* Dried paint '''will''' clog the airbrush: Even a small amount of leftover paint can dry inside the nozzle, needle, or internal passages. Once that happens, it creates blockages that restrict airflow. In some cases, the airbrush may stop working entirely until it's '''deep-cleaned''' — or '''parts replaced'''. The nozzle and its o-ring are the most sensitive parts and may get damaged during deep-cleaning. (Cost: '''€20-30'''; the o-rings are not available on their own).
* Skipping cleaning might feel faster in the moment, but fixing a clogged or damaged airbrush takes '''much''' longer. It can take hours trying to troubleshoot issues, disassemble tiny parts, or order replacements. 10-20 minutes of proper cleaning after every use saves a lot of frustration.

An airbrush is a precision tool — please treat it like one. Cleaning it properly '''every single time''' ensures it works when you (or others) need it.

===== '''Cleaning during your session:''' =====

* between changing colours: simply rinse the airbrush with a little bit of water or cleaning agent (window cleaner)
* if you pause your session (even if it's just for a few minutes)
** make sure the ink compartment is empty
** submerge the airbrush in water (yfor example a glass jar filled with water, placed inside one of the cutouts on the right hand side of the airbrush booth)

===Airbrush Colors===
Only water-based, dedicated airbrush paints are allowed to be used with our airbrushes.

If you'd like to use anything else than water-based, dedicated airbrush paints (for example solvent- or oil-based colours), you're free to bring your own personal airbrush and connect it to our compressor.

''See [[Material:Airbrush Paint]] for more information and experiences!''

===Spray Booth and Air Extraction===
Make sure you always have the spray booth's air extractor turned to on to "max Level" (Level 3) when the airbrush is in use (don't forget to use ear protection). The easiest method would be to keep the extractor running throughout your entire session, even if you take a break. That way, you don't forget to turn it on. Always keep the curtain behind you closed. Aerosols can travel for quite a long distance across the room, and we'd like to keep the other equipment free of paint. Once you've finished your session (whilst cleaning the airbrush): keep the air extractor running for a few more minutes and open the curtain and the door, to allow for additional air exchange in the room.

The spray booth we've built should be large enough to accomodate most needs, be it a A1-sized airbrush painting, or a t-shirt, shoes etc.

At the rear of the spray booth, you'll see a metal plate which can be tilted towards you, for a convenient viewing angle. For painting miniature figures / 3D-printed models etc: you'll find a turntable in one of the drawers. Also: Working with the airbrush is a lot more convenient if you lift your model up (to just below eye level). Positive side-effect: This also increases air ectraction efficiency.

== Airbrush Exercises ==
Here is a PDF with some basic airbrush exercises. Download, print and attach them to the backdrop in the spray booth. (Airbrushing onto a vertical canvas is easier than placing the canvas onto a horizontal surface). Even professional airbrush artists do warm-up exercises before they start a project.
[[File:Airbrush Practice Sheet.pdf|alt=Airbrush practice sheet|thumb|Airbrush practice sheet]]

[[Category:Airbrushing]]
[[Category:Facilities]]

Waiting Lists

2026-08-02T11:47:41Z

Björn: /* Table Saw Introduction */

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

''If you want to "wait" for a vehicle spot, see [[Vehicle Workspaces|vehicle workspaces]].''

<big>'''How to Use'''</big> Please '''link''' your [[Special:MyPage|user page]] at the bottom of each list you're interested in after you've filled it with enough information to contact you and/or activated "Allow other users to email me" in your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]]!

DO: link yourself for the introductions you need for your project(s)

DO NOT: link yourself for all available introductions just because you might need it at some point in the future - chances are you'll forget something important by the time you actually use the machine!

If a list is full enough and/or you have been waiting for a while, please reach out to the tool's tutors and kindly ask for a date - maybe they've just been too busy, but it could also be that they missed the list filling up and would appreciate the reminder.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]]==

Tutors:{{#show: 3D Printer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[mobell]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]] (I have quite some experience with my Prusa Mini)
*[[Nikhilesh]] (I have experience with Prussa Mk4 and Bambu Lab X1C at work)
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Arc Welding Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: 45 min + 10 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
*[[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[User:Björn|Björn]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Meyerml|marcel meyer]]
*[[Jakob]]
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]] (no response 2024-6-24)
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]] (no response 2024-6-24)
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Nicolai|Nicolai]]
*[[User:Tom|Thomas Braun]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Heiko|Heiko]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]
*[[Didi]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors:
{{#show: Chop Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~30 min

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[LuLeBe|Leander Berg]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]

== [[CNC Mill Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Mill Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 to 2 h

Next Date: 2026-2-22, 12:00-14:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Andreas|Andreas R]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
*[[Utis]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[Mamad]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:Erik1000|Erik]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:AndyWinzen|Andreas Winzen]]
*[[Maker-Joe|Jochen]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 h

Next Date: 2026-07-29, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:FabianM|Fabian]]
*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Mamad|Mamad]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Didi]]

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 15 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Nora|Nora]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:CaroSam|Caroline]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Jnafls|Johannes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

==[[Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: na

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
* [[Martin]]
* [[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
* [[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:Dean|Dean]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Hm.mane|Hm.mane]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Neo|Johannes]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nils]]

==[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]==
Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60 min + 15 min per member

Next Date: 2025-7-2, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[Jnafls|Johannnes]]
*[[Kjubik]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[Tomatensaft]]
*[[Gurkensaft]]
*[[Orangensaft]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nils]]

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser Cutter Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[MaKu]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Carsten]]
*[[User:JSqueezy|Jess]]
*Claus123

== [[Large Format Printer Introduction]] ==
Tutors:

* [[User:Björn|Björn]]

Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-5-22, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
* {{NL}}
* [[Didi]]

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Metal Lathe Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: 2-3h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
*[[User:BenKenobi|Benedict]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[LabCrow]]

== [[Sliding Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Sliding Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2026-7-24, 19:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:PhilippK|Philipp]]
*[[Volker]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:Mobell|Moritz B.]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[MobiTobi]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]] (no response, 2026-07-23)
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]] (no response, 2026-07-23)
*[[User:Johanna|Johanna]] (no response, 2026-07-23)

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2025-6-18 20:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[User:PhilippK|Philipp]]

== [[Vertical Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Vertical Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1.5 h

Next Date: 2025-6-25, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response 2024-3 & 2024-11)
*[[User:MarcW|Marc Werther]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[Nicolai]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Didi]]

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Woodturning Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 20 min per person

Next Date: 2026-1-28, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response July & Nov 2023)
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:Micha|Micha]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Joey|Joel A.]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]
*[[User:MarcW|Marc Werther]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[User:PhilippK|Philipp]]

[[Category:Introductions]]

Waiting Lists

2026-08-02T11:46:11Z

Björn: /* Sliding Table Saw Introduction */

An overview of the waiting lists for our [[introductions]] that take more time than the [[tutors]] can usually invest spontaneously.

''If you want to "wait" for a vehicle spot, see [[Vehicle Workspaces|vehicle workspaces]].''

<big>'''How to Use'''</big> Please '''link''' your [[Special:MyPage|user page]] at the bottom of each list you're interested in after you've filled it with enough information to contact you and/or activated "Allow other users to email me" in your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]]!

DO: link yourself for the introductions you need for your project(s)

DO NOT: link yourself for all available introductions just because you might need it at some point in the future - chances are you'll forget something important by the time you actually use the machine!

If a list is full enough and/or you have been waiting for a while, please reach out to the tool's tutors and kindly ask for a date - maybe they've just been too busy, but it could also be that they missed the list filling up and would appreciate the reminder.

==[[3D Printer Introduction]]==

Tutors:{{#show: 3D Printer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[mobell]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]] (I have quite some experience with my Prusa Mini)
*[[Nikhilesh]] (I have experience with Prussa Mk4 and Bambu Lab X1C at work)
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]

==[[Arc Welding Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Arc Welding Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: 45 min + 10 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Mitja|Mitja]]
* [[User:Utis|Utis]]
*[[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[User:Björn|Björn]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Meyerml|marcel meyer]]
*[[Jakob]]
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
* [[User:Christoph|Christoph]] (no response 2024-6-24)
* [[User:Andreas|Andreas]] (no response 2024-6-24)
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Nicolai|Nicolai]]
*[[User:Tom|Thomas Braun]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Heiko|Heiko]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]
*[[Didi]]

== [[Chop Saw Introduction]] ==
Tutors:
{{#show: Chop Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~30 min

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:SvenG|SvenG]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[LuLeBe|Leander Berg]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]

== [[CNC Mill Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Mill Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 to 2 h

Next Date: 2026-2-22, 12:00-14:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Andreas|Andreas R]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
*[[Utis]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[Mamad]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:Erik1000|Erik]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:AndyWinzen|Andreas Winzen]]
*[[Maker-Joe|Jochen]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[User:LabCrow|LabCrow]]

== [[CNC Router Introduction]] ==
'''requires the [[Handheld Router Introduction|handheld router introduction]]!'''

Tutors: {{#show: CNC Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: approx. 1.5 h

Next Date: 2026-07-29, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:FabianM|Fabian]]
*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:FBraun|FBraun]]
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Mamad|Mamad]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Didi]]

== [[Handheld Router Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Handheld Router Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 15 min per member

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Nora|Nora]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:CaroSam|Caroline]] (no response 2024-2-28)
*[[User:Marayah|Marayah]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:MobiTobi|Tobi]]
*[[B--rian|B--rian]]
*[[User:Jnafls|Johannes]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]

==[[Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Horizontal Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: na

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''
* [[Martin]]
* [[User:StStefa|Stefan Steinert]]
* [[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[Volker]]
*[[User:Dean|Dean]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Kaesekuchen007|Michael Wallenborn]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[Jaggi2]]
*[[User:Hm.mane|Hm.mane]]
*[[User:Nikhilesh|Nikhilesh]]
*[[User:Neo|Johannes]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nils]]

==[[Jointer-Planer Introduction]]==
Tutors: {{#show: Jointer-Planer Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: 60 min + 15 min per member

Next Date: 2025-7-2, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[Jnafls|Johannnes]]
*[[Kjubik]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[Tomatensaft]]
*[[Gurkensaft]]
*[[Orangensaft]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nils]]

== [[Laser Cutter Introduction]] ==

Tutors: {{#show: Laser Cutter Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~2h

Next Date: 2026-3-18, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Loewenstein|Jan]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[User:Ivastar|Ivastar]]
*[[MaKu]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Carsten]]
*[[User:JSqueezy|Jess]]
*Claus123

== [[Large Format Printer Introduction]] ==
Tutors:

* [[User:Björn|Björn]]

Time required: ~1h

Next Date: 2026-5-22, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''
* {{NL}}
* [[Didi]]

== [[Metal Lathe Introduction]] ==
Tutors: {{#show: Metal Lathe Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time Required: 2-3h

Next Date: TBD

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:ErikSchatz|Erik]]
*[[User:BenKenobi|Benedict]]
*[[User:Ol|Oliver]]
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[User:PloenK|Thomas Scholz]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[User:Lepus|Nidal]]
*[[Nikhilesh]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[LabCrow]]

== [[Sliding Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Sliding Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2026-7-24, 19:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:PhilippK|Philipp]]
*[[Volker]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:Mobell|Moritz B.]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[MobiTobi]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:DMaennle|DMaennle]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:AlexBaumgart|Alexander B.]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]] (no response, 2026-07-22)
*[[User:Johanna|Johanna]] (no response, 2026-07-22)

== [[Table Saw Introduction]] ==

[[Tutors]]: {{#show: Table Saw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}

Time required: ~ 1 h

Next Date: 2025-6-18 20:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

* [[User:Ozel|Oliver]]
*[[User:SteffenK|Steffen]]
*[[User:PaulVK|Paul]]
*[[Janvt]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[User:PhilippK|Philipp]]

== [[Vertical Bandsaw Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Vertical Bandsaw Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1.5 h

Next Date: 2025-6-25, 19:00

'''Waiting Members:'''

*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response 2024-3 & 2024-11)
*[[User:MarcW|Marc Werther]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[MobiTobi]]
*[[Nicolai]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Nibuzz|Nibuzz]]
*[[Mi grnd]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Didi]]

==[[Woodturning Introduction]]==

Tutors: {{#show: Woodturning Introduction
|?Tutor
| format=ul
}}
Time required: ~ 1 h + 20 min per person

Next Date: 2026-1-28, 20:30

'''Waiting Members:'''
*[[User:vjoettinger]]
*[[User:Olli.Klos|Olli Klos]] (no response July & Nov 2023)
*[[User:Paul Reimers|Paul]]
*[[User:Jan K.|Jan K.]]
*[[User:Micha|Micha]]
*[[User:Freegroup|Andreas Herz]]
*[[Deaf]]
*[[Erik]]
*[[User:LeoF|LeoF]]
*[[User:Tom|Tom]]
*[[User:Joey|Joel A.]]
*[[Mrwasgehtsiedasan]]
*[[Thom.76]]
*[[User:Der huddel|Marlon]]
*[[User:Muedinger|Jonas]]
*[[User:MarcW|Marc Werther]]
*[[Didi]]
*[[User:PhilippK|Philipp]]

[[Category:Introductions]]

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T16:04:53Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title=Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[CNC Router]],
[[Table Saw]],
[[Handheld Routers]],
[[Router Table]],
[[3D Printers]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]],
[[Adobe Illustrator]],
[[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

'''For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:'''

# 🕹️ '''Appearance''': shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 '''Minimalism''': no visible screws
# 📦 '''Easy storage''': no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's original Space Duel cabinet], but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 translucent buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]); no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed head)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== ✏️ Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are made from 19mm MDF. The side panels are milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== ⚡️Electronics ==

=== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons ===
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== 💡Marquee Lighting ===
[[File:Arcade-build-12.jpg|thumb]]
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

==== 💾 Commodore Amiga ====
For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format. So with the help of a Windows-Amiga-Emulator, I could convert my disks into .adf files for Batocera.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T11:29:10Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title=Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[CNC Router]],
[[Table Saw]],
[[Handheld Routers]],
[[Router Table]],
[[3D Printers]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]],
[[Adobe Illustrator]],
[[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

'''For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:'''

# 🕹️ '''Appearance''': shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 '''Minimalism''': no visible screws
# 📦 '''Easy storage''': no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's original Space Duel cabinet], but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 translucent buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]); no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed head)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== ✏️ Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are made from 19mm MDF. The side panels are milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== ⚡️Electronics ==

=== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons ===
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== 💡Marquee Lighting ===
[[File:Arcade-build-12.jpg|thumb]]
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

==== 💾 Commodore Amiga ====
For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T11:17:40Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[CNC Router]],
[[Table Saw]],
[[Handheld Routers]],
[[Router Table]],
[[3D Printers]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]],
[[Adobe Illustrator]],
[[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

'''For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:'''

# 🕹️ '''Appearance''': shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 '''Minimalism''': no visible screws
# 📦 '''Easy storage''': no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's original Space Duel cabinet], but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 translucent buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]); no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed head)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== ✏️ Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are made from 19mm MDF. The side panels are milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== ⚡️Electronics ==

=== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons ===
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== 💡Marquee Lighting ===
[[File:Arcade-build-12.jpg|thumb]]
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

==== 💾 Commodore Amiga ====
For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T11:17:11Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[CNC Router]],
[[Table Saw]],
[[Handheld Routers]],
[[Router Table]],
[[3D Printers]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]],
[[Adobe Illustrator]],
[[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

'''For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:'''

# 🕹️ '''Appearance''': shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 '''Minimalism''': no visible screws
# 📦 '''Easy storage''': no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's original Space Duel cabinet], but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 translucent buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]); no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed head)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== ✏️ Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are made from 19mm MDF. The side panels are milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Electronics ==

=== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons ===
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== 💡Marquee Lighting ===
[[File:Arcade-build-12.jpg|thumb]]
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

==== 💾 Commodore Amiga ====
For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T11:14:20Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[CNC Router]],
[[Table Saw]],
[[Handheld Routers]],
[[Router Table]],
[[3D Printers]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]],
[[Adobe Illustrator]],
[[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

'''For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:'''

# 🕹️ '''Appearance''': shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 '''Minimalism''': no visible screws
# 📦 '''Easy storage''': no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's original Space Duel cabinet], but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 translucent buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]); no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed head)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are made from 19mm MDF. The side panels are milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Electronics ==

=== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / ===
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== Marquee Lighting ===
[[File:Arcade-build-12.jpg|thumb]]
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Retro Gaming Arcade

2026-07-29T11:13:09Z

Björn: Björn moved page Project:Retro Gaming Arcade to Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

#REDIRECT [[Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"]]

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T11:13:08Z

Björn: Björn moved page Project:Retro Gaming Arcade to Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[CNC Router]],
[[Table Saw]],
[[Handheld Routers]],
[[Router Table]],
[[3D Printers]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]],
[[Adobe Illustrator]],
[[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

'''For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:'''

# 🕹️ '''Appearance''': shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 '''Minimalism''': no visible screws
# 📦 '''Easy storage''': no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's original Space Duel cabinet], but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 translucent buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]); no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed head)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are made from 19mm MDF. The side panels are milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== Marquee Lighting ===
[[File:Arcade-build-12.jpg|thumb]]
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Template:ProjectInfoBox

2026-07-29T11:12:02Z

Björn:

{| class="wikitable" style="float:right; margin-left: 10px; border-style: solid; border-width: 5px; border-color: #00773D"
!colspan="2"|[[Template:ProjectInfoBox|ProjectInfoBox]] 
<big>'''{{{project title|Unnamed Project}}}'''</big>
|-
!colspan="2"| [[{{#if: {{{extrabox|}}} |File: | Has image::File:}}{{#if: {{{image|}}} |{{{image}}} |project-default.png}}|frameless|300px]]
|-
| Status:
| {{{status|planned}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{date|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Release Date:
{{!}} [[ProjectDate::{{{date|(planned) finishing date}}}]]
|}}
|-
| Initiator:
| {{{initiator|who maintains it?}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{team|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Team:
{{!}} {{{team}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{materials|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Materials Used:
{{!}} {{{materials}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{tools|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Tools Used:
{{!}} {{{tools}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{software|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Software Used:
{{!}} {{{software}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{cost|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Approx. Cost:
{{!}} {{{cost}}}
|}}
|}
[[Has caption::{{FULLPAGENAME}}|]]
<noinclude>
Inform others about your [[Projects|project]] in a compact overview!

== Documentation ==
To use this template, simply copy this code into your page and enter the relevant parameters:
<pre>
{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=
|image=
|status=
|date=
|initiator=
|team=
|materials=
|tools=
|software=
|cost=
}}
</pre>
Default values for some parameters exist, but will only be used if the entire line is omitted. For example, <code>|image=</code> leads to no image being displayed while not entering the image parameter at all will lead to the default image (light bulb) being displayed. Please make use of the "Show preview" button and it should be clear.

If you had/have helpers with your project, you can use the <code>team</code> value to give them credit. Try using [[Template:HelpNeeded]] here to find collaborators! If you delete it or leave it empty, that field is not displayed at all.

The <code>software</code>, <code>materials</code> and <code>tools</code> value behaves this way as well since some projects are realized with tools and materials but others are done mostly digitally.

== [[Semantic MediaWiki]] ==
The content you enter for "date" can be queried under [[Property:ProjectDate]].

== Bugs/Future Development ==
* selection instead of free text: status= planned/in progress/finished?

== Template Parameters ==
<templatedata>
{
"description": "Provide information about a project you have built.",
"params": {
"project title": {
"label": "The name of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": true,
"description": "The name of your project",
"default": "Unnamed Project"
},
"image": {
"label": "An image for your project (your-uploaded-filename.jpg)",
"type": "wiki-file-name",
"required": false,
"description": "The file name of the image which represents your project the best. This might be printed on our [[Project Wall]]",
"suggested": true,
"example": "your-uploaded-filename.jpg"
},
"status": {
"label": "Status of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The current release status of your project",
"default": "planned",
"suggested": true
},
"date": {
"label": "The release date of your project",
"type": "date",
"required": false,
"description": "The date on which your project has been finished. Will be assigned to Property:ProjectDate and thus be searchable within [[Semantic MediaWiki]]."
},
"initiator": {
"label": "Who initiated your project?",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The user page or name of the person who initiated the project. Please provide them as their wiki name. You can leave out the \"User:\" part.",
"default": "who maintains it?",
"suggested": true,
"example": "[[Lukas]]"
},
"team": {
"label": "The team helping with your project.",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "Please provide them as their wiki usernames. You can leave out the \"User:\" part.",
"example": "[[Keno]]"
},
"materials": {
"label": "Materials you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of materials you have used in your project. Please provide them as their wiki titles. You can leave out the \"Material:\" part.",
"example": "[[MDF]]"
},
"tools": {
"label": "Tools you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of tools you have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki title / name.",
"example": "[[Table Saw]]"
},
"software": {
"label": "Software you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of softwareyou have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki name / title",
"example": "[[Autodesk Fusion]]"
},
"cost": {
"label": "Costs of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "An estimate of the cost to be expected if someone wants to recreate your project."
}
}
}
</templatedata>
</noinclude>

Template:ProjectInfoBox

2026-07-29T11:06:31Z

Björn:

{| class="wikitable" style="float:right; margin-left: 10px; border-style: solid; border-width: 5px; border-color: #00773D"
!colspan="2"|[[Template:ProjectInfoBox|ProjectInfoBox]] 
<big>'''{{{project title|Unnamed Project}}}'''</big>
|-
!colspan="2"| [[{{#if: {{{extrabox|}}} |File: | Has image::File:}}{{#if: {{{image|}}} |{{{image}}} |project-default.png}}|frameless|300px]]
|-
| Status:
| {{{status|planned}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{date|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Release Date:
{{!}} [[ProjectDate::{{{date|(planned) finishing date}}}]]
|}}
|-
| Initiator:
| {{{initiator|who maintains it?}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{team|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Team:
{{!}} {{{team}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{materials|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Materials Used:
{{!}} {{{materials}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{tools|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Tools Used:
{{!}} {{{tools}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{software|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Software Used:
{{!}} {{{software}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{cost|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Approx. Cost:
{{!}} {{{cost}}}
|}}
|}
[[Has caption::{{FULLPAGENAME}}|]]
<noinclude>
Inform others about your [[Projects|project]] in a compact overview!

== Documentation ==
To use this template, simply copy this code into your page and enter the relevant parameters:
<pre>
{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=
|image=
|status=
|date=
|initiator=
|team=
|materials=
|tools=
|software=
|cost=
}}
</pre>
Default values for some parameters exist, but will only be used if the entire line is omitted. For example, <code>|image=</code> leads to no image being displayed while not entering the image parameter at all will lead to the default image (light bulb) being displayed. Please make use of the "Show preview" button and it should be clear.

If you had/have helpers with your project, you can use the <code>team</code> value to give them credit. Try using [[Template:HelpNeeded]] here to find collaborators! If you delete it or leave it empty, that field is not displayed at all.

The <code>software</code>, <code>materials</code> and <code>tools</code> value behaves this way as well since some projects are realized with tools and materials but others are done mostly digitally.

== [[Semantic MediaWiki]] ==
The content you enter for "date" can be queried under [[Property:ProjectDate]].

== Bugs/Future Development ==
* selection instead of free text: status= planned/in progress/finished?

== Template Parameters ==
<templatedata>
{
"description": "Provide information about a project you have built.",
"params": {
"project title": {
"label": "The name of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": true,
"description": "The name of your project",
"default": "Unnamed Project"
},
"image": {
"label": "An image for your project (your-uploaded-filename.jpg)",
"type": "wiki-file-name",
"required": false,
"description": "The file name of the image which represents your project the best. This might be printed on our [[Project Wall]]",
"suggested": true
},
"status": {
"label": "Status of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The current release status of your project",
"default": "planned",
"suggested": true
},
"date": {
"label": "The release date of your project",
"type": "date",
"required": false,
"description": "The date on which your project has been finished. Will be assigned to Property:ProjectDate and thus be searchable within [[Semantic MediaWiki]]."
},
"initiator": {
"label": "Who initiated your project?",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The user page or name of the person who initiated the project. Please provide them as their wiki name. You can leave out the \"User:\" part. For example: [[Lukas]]",
"default": "who maintains it?",
"suggested": true,
"example": "[[Lukas]]"
},
"team": {
"label": "The team helping with your project.",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "Please provide them as their wiki usernames. You can leave out the \"User:\" part. For example: [[Lukas]]"
},
"materials": {
"label": "Materials you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of materials you have used in your project. Please provide them as their wiki titles. You can leave out the \"Material:\" part. For example: [[MDF]]"
},
"tools": {
"label": "Tools you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of tools you have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links ([[Tools]])"
},
"software": {
"label": "Software you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of softwareyou have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links ([[Software]])"
},
"cost": {
"label": "Costs of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "An estimate of the cost to be expected if someone wants to recreate your project."
}
}
}
</templatedata>
</noinclude>

Template:ProjectInfoBox

2026-07-29T11:05:25Z

Björn:

{| class="wikitable" style="float:right; margin-left: 10px; border-style: solid; border-width: 5px; border-color: #00773D"
!colspan="2"|[[Template:ProjectInfoBox|ProjectInfoBox]] 
<big>'''{{{project title|Unnamed Project}}}'''</big>
|-
!colspan="2"| [[{{#if: {{{extrabox|}}} |File: | Has image::File:}}{{#if: {{{image|}}} |{{{image}}} |project-default.png}}|frameless|300px]]
|-
| Status:
| {{{status|planned}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{date|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Release Date:
{{!}} [[ProjectDate::{{{date|(planned) finishing date}}}]]
|}}
|-
| Initiator:
| {{{initiator|who maintains it?}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{team|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Team:
{{!}} {{{team}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{materials|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Materials Used:
{{!}} {{{materials}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{tools|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Tools Used:
{{!}} {{{tools}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{software|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Software Used:
{{!}} {{{software}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{cost|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Approx. Cost:
{{!}} {{{cost}}}
|}}
|}
[[Has caption::{{FULLPAGENAME}}|]]
<noinclude>
Inform others about your [[Projects|project]] in a compact overview!

== Documentation ==
To use this template, simply copy this code into your page and enter the relevant parameters:
<pre>
{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=
|image=
|status=
|date=
|initiator=
|team=
|materials=
|tools=
|software=
|cost=
}}
</pre>
Default values for some parameters exist, but will only be used if the entire line is omitted. For example, <code>|image=</code> leads to no image being displayed while not entering the image parameter at all will lead to the default image (light bulb) being displayed. Please make use of the "Show preview" button and it should be clear.

If you had/have helpers with your project, you can use the <code>team</code> value to give them credit. Try using [[Template:HelpNeeded]] here to find collaborators! If you delete it or leave it empty, that field is not displayed at all.

The <code>software</code>, <code>materials</code> and <code>tools</code> value behaves this way as well since some projects are realized with tools and materials but others are done mostly digitally.

== [[Semantic MediaWiki]] ==
The content you enter for "date" can be queried under [[Property:ProjectDate]].

== Bugs/Future Development ==
* selection instead of free text: status= planned/in progress/finished?

== Template Parameters ==
<templatedata>
{
"description": "Provide information about a project you have built.",
"params": {
"project title": {
"label": "The name of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": true,
"description": "The name of your project",
"default": "Unnamed Project"
},
"image": {
"label": "An image for your project (your-uploaded-filename.jpg)",
"type": "wiki-file-name",
"required": false,
"description": "The file name of the image which represents your project the best. This might be printed on our [[Project Wall]]",
"suggested": true
},
"status": {
"label": "Status of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The current release status of your project",
"default": "planned",
"suggested": true
},
"date": {
"label": "The release date of your project",
"type": "date",
"required": false,
"description": "The date on which your project has been finished. Will be assigned to Property:ProjectDate and thus be searchable within [[Semantic MediaWiki]]."
},
"initiator": {
"label": "Who initiated your project?",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The user page or name of the person who initiated the project.",
"default": "who maintains it?",
"suggested": true
},
"team": {
"label": "The team helping with your project.",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "Please provide them as their wiki usernames. You can leave out the \"User:\" part. For example: [[Lukas]]"
},
"materials": {
"label": "Materials you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of materials you have used in your project. Please provide them as their wiki titles. You can leave out the \"Material:\" part. For example: [[MDF]]"
},
"tools": {
"label": "Tools you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of tools you have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links ([[Tools]])"
},
"software": {
"label": "Software you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of softwareyou have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links ([[Software]])"
},
"cost": {
"label": "Costs of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "An estimate of the cost to be expected if someone wants to recreate your project."
}
}
}
</templatedata>
</noinclude>

Template:ProjectInfoBox

2026-07-29T11:02:54Z

Björn:

{| class="wikitable" style="float:right; margin-left: 10px; border-style: solid; border-width: 5px; border-color: #00773D"
!colspan="2"|[[Template:ProjectInfoBox|ProjectInfoBox]] 
<big>'''{{{project title|Unnamed Project}}}'''</big>
|-
!colspan="2"| [[{{#if: {{{extrabox|}}} |File: | Has image::File:}}{{#if: {{{image|}}} |{{{image}}} |project-default.png}}|frameless|300px]]
|-
| Status:
| {{{status|planned}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{date|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Release Date:
{{!}} [[ProjectDate::{{{date|(planned) finishing date}}}]]
|}}
|-
| Initiator:
| {{{initiator|who maintains it?}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{team|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Team:
{{!}} {{{team}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{materials|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Materials Used:
{{!}} {{{materials}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{tools|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Tools Used:
{{!}} {{{tools}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{software|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Software Used:
{{!}} {{{software}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{cost|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Approx. Cost:
{{!}} {{{cost}}}
|}}
|}
[[Has caption::{{FULLPAGENAME}}|]]
<noinclude>
Inform others about your [[Projects|project]] in a compact overview!

== Documentation ==
To use this template, simply copy this code into your page and enter the relevant parameters:
<pre>
{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=
|image=
|status=
|date=
|initiator=
|team=
|materials=
|tools=
|software=
|cost=
}}
</pre>
Default values for some parameters exist, but will only be used if the entire line is omitted. For example, <code>|image=</code> leads to no image being displayed while not entering the image parameter at all will lead to the default image (light bulb) being displayed. Please make use of the "Show preview" button and it should be clear.

If you had/have helpers with your project, you can use the <code>team</code> value to give them credit. Try using [[Template:HelpNeeded]] here to find collaborators! If you delete it or leave it empty, that field is not displayed at all.

The <code>software</code>, <code>materials</code> and <code>tools</code> value behaves this way as well since some projects are realized with tools and materials but others are done mostly digitally.

== [[Semantic MediaWiki]] ==
The content you enter for "date" can be queried under [[Property:ProjectDate]].

== Bugs/Future Development ==
* selection instead of free text: status= planned/in progress/finished?

== Template Parameters ==
<templatedata>
{
"description": "Provide information about a project you have built.",
"params": {
"project title": {
"label": "The name of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": true,
"description": "The name of your project",
"default": "Unnamed Project"
},
"image": {
"label": "An image for your project (your-uploaded-filename.jpg)",
"type": "wiki-file-name",
"required": false,
"description": "The file name of the image which represents your project the best. This might be printed on our [[Project Wall]]",
"suggested": true
},
"status": {
"label": "Status of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The current release status of your project",
"default": "planned",
"suggested": true
},
"date": {
"label": "The release date of your project",
"type": "date",
"required": false,
"description": "The date on which your project has been finished. Will be assigned to Property:ProjectDate and thus be searchable within [[Semantic MediaWiki]]."
},
"initiator": {
"label": "Who initiated your project?",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The user page or name of the person who initiated the project.",
"default": "who maintains it?",
"suggested": true
},
"team": {
"label": "The team helping with your project.",
"type": "string",
"required": false
},
"materials": {
"label": "Materials you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of materials you have used in your project. Please provide them as their wiki titles, for example:[[MDF]]"
},
"tools": {
"label": "Tools you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of tools you have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links ([[Tools]])"
},
"software": {
"label": "Software you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of softwareyou have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links ([[Software]])"
},
"cost": {
"label": "Costs of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "An estimate of the cost to be expected if someone wants to recreate your project."
}
}
}
</templatedata>
</noinclude>

Template:ProjectInfoBox

2026-07-29T11:00:04Z

Björn:

{| class="wikitable" style="float:right; margin-left: 10px; border-style: solid; border-width: 5px; border-color: #00773D"
!colspan="2"|[[Template:ProjectInfoBox|ProjectInfoBox]] 
<big>'''{{{project title|Unnamed Project}}}'''</big>
|-
!colspan="2"| [[{{#if: {{{extrabox|}}} |File: | Has image::File:}}{{#if: {{{image|}}} |{{{image}}} |project-default.png}}|frameless|300px]]
|-
| Status:
| {{{status|planned}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{date|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Release Date:
{{!}} [[ProjectDate::{{{date|(planned) finishing date}}}]]
|}}
|-
| Initiator:
| {{{initiator|who maintains it?}}}
|-
{{#if: {{{team|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Team:
{{!}} {{{team}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{materials|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Materials Used:
{{!}} {{{materials}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{tools|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Tools Used:
{{!}} {{{tools}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{software|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Software Used:
{{!}} {{{software}}}
|}}
|-
{{#if: {{{cost|}}} |
{{!}}-
{{!}} Approx. Cost:
{{!}} {{{cost}}}
|}}
|}
[[Has caption::{{FULLPAGENAME}}|]]
<noinclude>
Inform others about your [[Projects|project]] in a compact overview!

== Documentation ==
To use this template, simply copy this code into your page and enter the relevant parameters:
<pre>
{{ProjectInfoBox
|project title=
|image=
|status=
|date=
|initiator=
|team=
|materials=
|tools=
|software=
|cost=
}}
</pre>
Default values for some parameters exist, but will only be used if the entire line is omitted. For example, <code>|image=</code> leads to no image being displayed while not entering the image parameter at all will lead to the default image (light bulb) being displayed. Please make use of the "Show preview" button and it should be clear.

If you had/have helpers with your project, you can use the <code>team</code> value to give them credit. Try using [[Template:HelpNeeded]] here to find collaborators! If you delete it or leave it empty, that field is not displayed at all.

The <code>software</code>, <code>materials</code> and <code>tools</code> value behaves this way as well since some projects are realized with tools and materials but others are done mostly digitally.

== [[Semantic MediaWiki]] ==
The content you enter for "date" can be queried under [[Property:ProjectDate]].

== Bugs/Future Development ==
* selection instead of free text: status= planned/in progress/finished?

== Template Parameters ==
<templatedata>
{
"description": "Provide information about a project you have built.",
"params": {
"project title": {
"label": "The name of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": true,
"description": "The name of your project",
"default": "Unnamed Project"
},
"image": {
"label": "An image for your project (your-uploaded-filename.jpg)",
"type": "wiki-file-name",
"required": false,
"description": "The file name of the image which represents your project the best. This might be printed on our [[Project Wall]]",
"suggested": true
},
"status": {
"label": "Status of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The current release status of your project",
"default": "planned",
"suggested": true
},
"date": {
"label": "The release date of your project",
"type": "date",
"required": false,
"description": "The date on which your project has been finished. Will be assigned to Property:ProjectDate and thus be searchable within [[Semantic MediaWiki]]."
},
"initiator": {
"label": "Who initiated your project?",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "The user page or name of the person who initiated the project.",
"default": "who maintains it?",
"suggested": true
},
"team": {
"label": "The team helping with your project.",
"type": "string",
"required": false
},
"materials": {
"label": "Materials you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of materials you have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links ([[Material]])"
},
"tools": {
"label": "Tools you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of tools you have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links ([[Tools]])"
},
"software": {
"label": "Software you have used (wiki links, if possible).",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "A list of softwareyou have used in your project. Please provide them as wiki links ([[Software]])"
},
"cost": {
"label": "Costs of your project",
"type": "string",
"required": false,
"description": "An estimate of the cost to be expected if someone wants to recreate your project."
}
}
}
</templatedata>
</noinclude>

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T10:57:19Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[CNC Router]],
[[Table Saw]],
[[Handheld Routers]],
[[Router Table]],
[[3D Printers]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]],
[[Adobe Illustrator]],
[[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

'''For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:'''

# 🕹️ '''Appearance''': shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 '''Minimalism''': no visible screws
# 📦 '''Easy storage''': no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's original Space Duel cabinet], but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 translucent buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]); no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed head)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are made from 19mm MDF. The side panels are milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== Marquee Lighting ===
[[File:Arcade-build-12.jpg|thumb]]
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T10:56:02Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner/optical encoder)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[CNC Router]],
[[Table Saw]],
[[Handheld Routers]],
[[Router Table]],
[[3D Printers]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]],
[[Adobe Illustrator]],
[[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

'''For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:'''

# 🕹️ '''Appearance''': shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 '''Minimalism''': no visible screws
# 📦 '''Easy storage''': no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's original Space Duel cabinet], but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 translucent buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]); no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed head)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are made from 19mm MDF. The side panels are milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== Marquee Lighting ===
[[File:Arcade-build-12.jpg|thumb]]
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T10:52:53Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner/optical encoder)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[CNC Router]],
[[Table Saw]],
[[Handheld Routers]],
[[Router Table]],
[[3D Printers]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]],
[[Adobe Illustrator]],
[[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

'''For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:'''

# 🕹️ '''Appearance''': shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 '''Minimalism''': no visible screws
# 📦 '''Easy storage''': no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's original Space Duel cabinet], but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]) buttons are translucent; no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed knob)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are from 19mm MDF. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-12.jpg
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== Marquee Lighting ===
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T10:51:47Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner/optical encoder)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[CNC Router]],
[[Table Saw]],
[[Handheld Routers]],
[[Router Table]],
[[3D Printers]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]],
[[Adobe Illustrator]],
[[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]) buttons are translucent; no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed knob)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are from 19mm MDF. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-12.jpg
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== Marquee Lighting ===
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T10:50:03Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC),
[[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints),
[[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner/optical encoder)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[Handheld Routers]], [[Router Table]], [[CNC Router]], [[Table Saw]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]], [[Adobe Illustrator]], [[Adobe Photoshop]], [[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]) buttons are translucent; no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed knob)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are from 19mm MDF. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-12.jpg
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== Marquee Lighting ===
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-29T10:49:35Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]] (help with CNC), [[Finno]] (help with vinyl prints), [[Johannes]] (help with wiring the spinner/optical encoder)|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[Handheld Routers]], [[Router Table]], [[CNC Router]], [[Table Saw]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]], [[Adobe Illustrator]], [[Adobe Photoshop]], [[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can be placed anywhere: stand on a desk, hang on the wall or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like classic 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus-challenge: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be fun 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet depth to reduce the pull on the screws. This saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets are true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults plus:

* joysticks ([https://www.smallcab.net/joystick-seimitsu-p-1909.html Seimitsu LS-32-SS]) + [https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-shaft-extender-p-752.html shaft extenders] (some people seem to like them for more joystick travel / bigger hands etc)
* 8 buttons per player ([https://www.smallcab.net/seimitsu-30mm-translucent-p-383.html Seimitsu PS-14-KN]) buttons are translucent; no LEDs to light them up as I don't like too much blinky-blinky, but I can add a basic LED spot inside the cabinet for a subtle light effect and better visibility
* 4 [https://www.smallcab.net/white-illuminated-button-24mm-p-1429.html illuminated service buttons] (to start games, "add coins", enter emulator settings etc)
* central spinner ([https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095X7FN38 optical encoder] + 3d-printed knob)
* an old 27" LCD screen I already had
<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. All panels are from 19mm MDF. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the [[Router Table|router table]] with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges, and a T-slot router bit to add the grooves for the [https://www.smallcab.net/molding-19mm-black-p-654.html T-molding profiles]. <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 19mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.

The panel above the screen has 3 holes cut in for speakers and maybe a light source. (I'm currently using an old set of USB-stereo-speakers, so closed the holes with a 3d-printed grid to hide the speakers). <gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future]. There never was a Captain Future arcade game, but hey... who cares 🙂

For the [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet comet spaceship] on the sides, I wanted a very particular perspective and angle. I found a suitable 3d-print STL-model-file and used a 3d-software to change camera angle / focal length to get what I want.

[[User:Finno|Finno]] helped me print the side-panel and control-panel graphics onto self-adhesive vinyl. The vinyl contains a tiny "air canal" texture on the back, which made it straight-forward to apply without any air bubbles.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-12.jpg
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
Joysticks and buttons are from [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#SEIMITSU Seimitsu]. To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €15 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

🎮 Additional control pads (for games with more than 2 players) or a mouse (for some computer games) can be connected via a USB-hub or bluetooth.

=== Marquee Lighting ===
To light the marquee from behind, I glued an old USB-powered LED-strip onto some sheet metal. The marquee graphics are printed on paper, which diffuses the LED strip for even lighting.

== 👾 Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using [https://batocera.org Batocera]. My first setup was on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini, which allows for more realistic shader setups (to emulate CRT-Screen scan lines, glow etc).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard (although they do work), as it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine". This can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons. Batocera is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc. – full list [https://wiki.batocera.org/systems here].

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the [https://wiki.batocera.org/add_games_bios Batocera/ROMs directory]. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

Once a game is installed, Batocera can scrape the game's metadata, graphics, user manual etc for the Emulation Station's beautiful and intuitive front-end.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall: I fastened one part of the french cleat from behind the shelf's verticals (with an in-between piece of timer the depth of the verticals, so to meet the front of the shelf).

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-26T11:14:07Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]], [[Finno]]|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[Handheld Routers]], [[CNC Router]], [[Table Saw]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]], [[Adobe Illustrator]], [[Adobe Photoshop]], [[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can either stand on a desk or can hang anywhere: on the wall, or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc, using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system.

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like classi 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be a fun challenge 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet to reduce the pull on the screws. This also saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets stay true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults, two joysticks, eight buttons per player, a central spinner and of course an old 27" LCD screen I already had.

<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the router table with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges and tidy everything up.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 18mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future] (inlcuding his [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet spaceship], of course)

Yes, there never was a Captain Future arcade machine, but hey... who cares 🙂<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-12.jpg
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
Joysticks and buttons are from Sanwa (Sanwa Denshi Co., Ltd.). They are widely regarded as one of the industry standards for Japanese arcade cabinets and commercial fightsticks. They are known for a light spring tension, short throw/travel distance, and a ball-top design optimized for fast, precise inputs.

To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €20 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

== Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using Batocera. I first had it running on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini (Batocera for Linux).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard, because it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine", which can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons (and with modern control pads). It is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc.

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the Batocera/ROMs directory. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall.

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-26T11:13:36Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Leo]], [[Finno]]|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[Handheld Routers]], [[CNC Router]], [[Table Saw]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]], [[Adobe Illustrator]], [[Adobe Photoshop]], [[Cinema 4d]]|initiator=[[Björn]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can either stand on a desk or can hang anywhere: on the wall, or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc, using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system.

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like classi 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be a fun challenge 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet to reduce the pull on the screws. This also saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets stay true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults, two joysticks, eight buttons per player, a central spinner and of course an old 27" LCD screen I already had.

<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the router table with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges and tidy everything up.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 18mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future] (inlcuding his [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet spaceship], of course)

Yes, there never was a Captain Future arcade machine, but hey... who cares 🙂<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-12.jpg
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
[[File:Arcade control-panel rear cables.jpg|thumb]]
Joysticks and buttons are from Sanwa (Sanwa Denshi Co., Ltd.). They are widely regarded as one of the industry standards for Japanese arcade cabinets and commercial fightsticks. They are known for a light spring tension, short throw/travel distance, and a ball-top design optimized for fast, precise inputs.

To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €20 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

== Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using Batocera. I first had it running on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini (Batocera for Linux).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard, because it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine", which can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons (and with modern control pads). It is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc.

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the Batocera/ROMs directory. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall.

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-26T11:12:32Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Björn]], [[Leo]], [[Finno]]|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[Handheld Routers]], [[CNC Router]], [[Table Saw]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]], [[Adobe Illustrator]], [[Adobe Photoshop]], [[Cinema 4d]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can either stand on a desk or can hang anywhere: on the wall, or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc, using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system.

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like classi 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be a fun challenge 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet to reduce the pull on the screws. This also saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets stay true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults, two joysticks, eight buttons per player, a central spinner and of course an old 27" LCD screen I already had.

<gallery>
File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg
File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg
</gallery>

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the router table with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges and tidy everything up.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 18mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future] (inlcuding his [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet spaceship], of course)

Yes, there never was a Captain Future arcade machine, but hey... who cares 🙂<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-12.jpg
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
[[File:Arcade control-panel rear cables.jpg|thumb]]
Joysticks and buttons are from Sanwa (Sanwa Denshi Co., Ltd.). They are widely regarded as one of the industry standards for Japanese arcade cabinets and commercial fightsticks. They are known for a light spring tension, short throw/travel distance, and a ball-top design optimized for fast, precise inputs.

To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €20 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

== Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using Batocera. I first had it running on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini (Batocera for Linux).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard, because it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine", which can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons (and with modern control pads). It is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc.

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the Batocera/ROMs directory. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall.

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-26T11:11:57Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Björn]], [[Leo]], [[Finno]]|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[Handheld Routers]], [[CNC Router]], [[Table Saw]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]], [[Adobe Illustrator]], [[Adobe Photoshop]], [[Cinema 4d]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can either stand on a desk or can hang anywhere: on the wall, or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc, using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system.

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like classi 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be a fun challenge 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet to reduce the pull on the screws. This also saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets stay true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults, two joysticks, eight buttons per player, a central spinner and of course an old 27" LCD screen I already had.

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the router table with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges and tidy everything up.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-01.jpg
File:Arcade-build-02.jpg
File:Arcade-build-03.jpg
File:Arcade-build-04.jpg
File:Arcade-build-05.jpg
File:Arcade-build-06.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 18mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-09.jpg
File:Arcade-build-10.jpg
File:Arcade-build-11.jpg
File:Arcade-build-07.jpg
File:Arcade-build-08.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future] (inlcuding his [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet spaceship], of course)

Yes, there never was a Captain Future arcade machine, but hey... who cares 🙂<gallery>
File:Arcade-build-12.jpg
File:Arcade-build-13.jpg
</gallery>

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
[[File:Arcade control-panel rear cables.jpg|thumb]]
Joysticks and buttons are from Sanwa (Sanwa Denshi Co., Ltd.). They are widely regarded as one of the industry standards for Japanese arcade cabinets and commercial fightsticks. They are known for a light spring tension, short throw/travel distance, and a ball-top design optimized for fast, precise inputs.

To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €20 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

== Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using Batocera. I first had it running on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini (Batocera for Linux).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard, because it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine", which can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons (and with modern control pads). It is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc.

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the Batocera/ROMs directory. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall.

File:Arcade-Finished-05.jpg

2026-07-26T11:11:39Z

Björn:

Arcade-Finished-05

File:Arcade-Finished-04.jpg

2026-07-26T11:11:23Z

Björn:

Arcade-Finished-04

File:Arcade-Finished-03.jpg

2026-07-26T11:11:03Z

Björn:

Arcade-Finished-03

File:Arcade-Finished-02.jpg

2026-07-26T11:10:46Z

Björn:

Arcade-Finished-02

File:Arcade-Finished-01.jpg

2026-07-26T11:10:28Z

Björn:

Arcade-Finished-01

File:Arcade-build-13.jpg

2026-07-26T11:02:39Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-13

File:Arcade-build-12.jpg

2026-07-26T11:02:23Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-12

File:Arcade-build-11.jpg

2026-07-26T11:02:00Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-11

File:Arcade-build-10.jpg

2026-07-26T11:01:36Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-10

File:Arcade-build-09.jpg

2026-07-26T11:01:16Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-09

File:Arcade-build-08.jpg

2026-07-26T11:00:59Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-08

File:Arcade-build-07.jpg

2026-07-26T11:00:39Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-07

File:Arcade-build-06.jpg

2026-07-26T11:00:18Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-06

File:Arcade-build-05.jpg

2026-07-26T11:00:00Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-05

File:Arcade-build-04.jpg

2026-07-26T10:59:40Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-04

File:Arcade-build-03.jpg

2026-07-26T10:59:18Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-03

File:Arcade-build-02.jpg

2026-07-26T10:59:00Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-02

File:Arcade-build-01.jpg

2026-07-26T10:58:25Z

Björn:

Arcade-build-01

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-26T10:46:52Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Björn]], [[Leo]], [[Finno]]|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[Handheld Routers]], [[CNC Router]], [[Table Saw]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]], [[Adobe Illustrator]], [[Adobe Photoshop]], [[Cinema 4d]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can either stand on a desk or can hang anywhere: on the wall, or at the front of a sturdy shelf etc, using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system.

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like classi 1970s/1980s arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be a fun challenge 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet to reduce the pull on the screws. This also saves space, but of course leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets stay true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults, two joysticks, eight buttons per player, a central spinner and of course an old 27" LCD screen I already had.

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the entire cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our "Workbee" CNC Router. Besides, the router had since received a big update / new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the router table with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges and tidy everything up.<gallery>
File:Arcade CNC.jpg
File:Arcade inside.jpg
File:Arcade inside 2.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts on one or both sides. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with an angled [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 18mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.<gallery>
File:Arcade bezel.jpg
File:Arcade front panel.jpg
File:Arcade control-panel rear.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Graphics ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future] (inlcuding his [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet spaceship], of course)

Yes, there never was a Captain Future arcade machine, but hey... who cares 🙂

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
[[File:Arcade control-panel rear cables.jpg|thumb]]
Joysticks and buttons are from Sanwa (Sanwa Denshi Co., Ltd.). They are widely regarded as one of the industry standards for Japanese arcade cabinets and commercial fightsticks. They are known for a light spring tension, short throw/travel distance, and a ball-top design optimized for fast, precise inputs.

To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €20 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

== Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using Batocera. I first had it running on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini (Batocera for Linux).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard, because it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine", which can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons (and with modern control pads). It is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc.

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the Batocera/ROMs directory. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall.

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-26T10:35:02Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Björn]], [[Leo]], [[Finno]]|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[Handheld Routers]]
[[CNC Router]]
[[Table Saw]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]]
[[Adobe Illustrator]]
[[Adobe Photoshop]]
[[Cinema 4d]]}}

I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can either stand on a desk or can hang anywhere: on the wall, or at the front of an Ikea IVAR shelf (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like 1970s/1980s classic arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy Storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be a fun challenge 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet to reduce the pull on the screws. This also saves space, but leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets stay true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults, two joysticks, eight buttons per player, and a central spinner.

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our CNC Router. Besides, the router has since received an update with a new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the router table with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges and tidy everything up.<gallery>
File:Arcade CNC.jpg
File:Arcade inside.jpg
File:Arcade inside 2.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were simply cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with a [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 18mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.<gallery>
File:Arcade bezel.jpg
File:Arcade front panel.jpg
File:Arcade control-panel rear.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Design ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future] (inlcuding his [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet spaceship], of course)

Yes, there never was a Captain Future arcade machine, but hey... who cares 🙂

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
[[File:Arcade control-panel rear cables.jpg|thumb]]
Joysticks and buttons are from Sanwa (Sanwa Denshi Co., Ltd.). They are widely regarded as one of the industry standards for Japanese arcade cabinets and commercial fightsticks. They are known for a light spring tension, short throw/travel distance, and a ball-top design optimized for fast, precise inputs.

To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €20 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

== Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using Batocera. I first had it running on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini (Batocera for Linux).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard, because it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine", which can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons (and with modern control pads). It is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc.

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the Batocera/ROMs directory. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall.

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-26T10:33:54Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Björn]], [[Leo]], [[Finno]]|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[Handheld Routers]]
[[CNC Router]]
[[Table Saw]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]]
[[Adobe Illustrator]]
[[Adobe Photoshop]]
[[Cinema 4d]]|cost=}}I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can either stand on a desk or can hang anywhere: on the wall, or at the front of an Ikea IVAR shelf (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like 1970s/1980s classic arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy Storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be a fun challenge 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet to reduce the pull on the screws. This also saves space, but leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets stay true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults, two joysticks, eight buttons per player, and a central spinner.

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our CNC Router. Besides, the router has since received an update with a new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the router table with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges and tidy everything up.<gallery>
File:Arcade CNC.jpg
File:Arcade inside.jpg
File:Arcade inside 2.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were simply cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with a [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 18mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.<gallery>
File:Arcade bezel.jpg
File:Arcade front panel.jpg
File:Arcade control-panel rear.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Design ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future] (inlcuding his [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet spaceship], of course)

Yes, there never was a Captain Future arcade machine, but hey... who cares 🙂

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
[[File:Arcade control-panel rear cables.jpg|thumb]]
Joysticks and buttons are from Sanwa (Sanwa Denshi Co., Ltd.). They are widely regarded as one of the industry standards for Japanese arcade cabinets and commercial fightsticks. They are known for a light spring tension, short throw/travel distance, and a ball-top design optimized for fast, precise inputs.

To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €20 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

== Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using Batocera. I first had it running on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini (Batocera for Linux).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard, because it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine", which can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons (and with modern control pads). It is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc.

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the Batocera/ROMs directory. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall.

Project:Arcade Gaming Cabinet "Retro-Cade"

2026-07-26T10:33:22Z

Björn:

{{ProjectInfoBox|project title="Retro-Cade" - Retro Gaming Arcade|image=Arcade.jpg|status=finished|date=March 2025|team=[[Björn]], [[Leo]], [[Finno]]|materials=[[MDF]]|tools=[[Handheld Routers]]
[[CNC Router]]
[[Table Saw]]|software=[[Autodesk Fusion]]
[[Adobe Illustrator]]
[[Adobe Photoshop]]
[[Cinema 4d]]|cost=}}[[File:Arcade.jpg|thumb|The "Retro-Cade" inside an IKEA Ivar shelf. (Original photograph with coloured lighting; no Photoshop/retouching or AI)]]
I had been toying with the idea to create a retro gaming arcade machine ever since an old friend had invited me to one of his "Retro-Zock"-nights. In order to save space, I decided to create an arcade machine that can either stand on a desk or can hang anywhere: on the wall, or at the front of an Ikea IVAR shelf (using a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat french cleat] hanging system).

For the arcade's overall design, three things were a must-have:

# 🕹️ Appearance: shape and design like 1970s/1980s classic arcade cabinets
# 🔩 Minimalism: no visible screws
# 📦 Easy Storage: no wood glue on the side panels, so everything can be disassembled for storage if need be

Bonus: combining points 2 and 3 should turn out to be a fun challenge 🙂

[https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/ ClassicArcadeCabinets.com] has DXF files for original arcade cabinets, including the 1982 Atari Classic [https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/space-duel.html Space Duel]. Since I planned to mount it on the wall using a French cleat, I shortened the cabinet to reduce the pull on the screws. This also saves space, but leaves less room for the side graphics.

All angles and fillets stay true to Atari's original Space Duel cabinet, but I widened the cabinet to 70 cm to fit two adults, two joysticks, eight buttons per player, and a central spinner.

== Cabinet Design & Woodworking ==

=== CAD / Side-Panels ===
I designed the cabinet in [[Autodesk Fusion|Fusion 360]], using Atari’s original angles for the side panels. The side panels would later be milled with our Workbee [[CNC Router]]. On the inside of the side panels, I added recesses (~ 2 mm) so timber beams could later be fitted precisely, in order to keep all screws hidden from the outside: The MDF side panels attach to the internal timber, which connect them to the horizontal MDF.

It'd been a few years since I last used our CNC Router. Besides, the router has since received an update with a new interface. Big thanks and shoutout to [[User:Leo|Leo]], who helped me transfer my CAD design to the CNC Router.

After CNC milling, I used the router table with a flush trim bit to remove the CNC tabs/bridges and tidy everything up.<gallery>
File:Arcade CNC.jpg
File:Arcade inside.jpg
File:Arcade inside 2.jpg
</gallery>

=== Horizontals ===
All horizontal MDF pieces were simply cut with a [[Table Saw|table saw]]. Due to the lack of 90-degree-angles, most of them needed mitre cuts. The lower front part includes a 65° angled recess (cut with a [[Handheld Routers|handheld router]]) for the removable control panel (joysticks + buttons) to rest on. The hole for the display bezel was cut with the same router and then rounded with a roundover router bit.

For the control panel layout, I opted for 8 buttons per player, following one of [https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html Slagcoin's] classic layout suggestions. To add joystick + buttons to the 18mm MDF board, I first had to reduce the material thickness. So I used our [[Laser Cutter|lasercutter]] to create a guide bush template for the handheld router.<gallery>
File:Arcade bezel.jpg
File:Arcade front panel.jpg
File:Arcade control-panel rear.jpg
</gallery>

== 🎨 Paint / Side-Panel Design ==
Prior to assembly, I primed and painted all visible parts using water-based acrylic paint and a paint roller: black for all "insides" (horizontals, bezel etc) and white for the outside. 2-3 layers in total, with in-between sanding.

The side panels would later have a design printed on vinyl stuck to them, but a decent and even paint job would allow for the vinyl to later be replaced if need be. I also primed the side panel's insides, though that probably wasn't necessary.

The side-panels and the control panel graphics are all hand-illustrated (I'm a graphic designer): I wanted the overall look & feel to be like [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=atari+space+duel+arcade Atari's Space Duel], but with characters from my favourite childhood cartoon series [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain%20future Captain Future] (inlcuding his [https://www.ecosia.org/images?q=captain+future+comet spaceship], of course)

Yes, there never was a Captain Future arcade machine, but hey... who cares 🙂

== 🕹️ Joysticks and Buttons / Electronics ==
[[File:Arcade control-panel rear cables.jpg|thumb]]
Joysticks and buttons are from Sanwa (Sanwa Denshi Co., Ltd.). They are widely regarded as one of the industry standards for Japanese arcade cabinets and commercial fightsticks. They are known for a light spring tension, short throw/travel distance, and a ball-top design optimized for fast, precise inputs.

To connect and encode joystick + buttons to USB, I'm using [https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac2/ Ultimarc's I-PAC2]. The controller is super fast, offers flexibility for various 2-player configurations and add-ons (like a spinner, for example), and the customer service is really fantastic. (I had a few post-sales questions, and always received an answer within less than a day).

Talking of spinners (for games like Arkanoid, for example): I don't really understand why dedicated (and expensive) arcade spinners are advertised as "fast spinning". I wanted something with a bit of resistance, so it doesn't spin too quickly. Even a cheap €20 spinner was still too fast for playing Arkanoid... so I tried to add some friction by laser-cutting the spinner's hole in the control-panel's cover acrylic a little tighter.

== Game Emulation ==
To emulate games, I'm using Batocera. I first had it running on a Raspberry Pi 4b, and now on an old 2012 Mac Mini (Batocera for Linux).

With Batocera, there's no need for a mouse or a keyboard, because it boots straight into the so-called "emulation machine", which can be operated with the arcade's joysticks and buttons (and with modern control pads). It is open-source and can emulate pretty much any arcade, games system or computer that's ever been produced: MAME and FBNeo (=classic arcade games), Atari, Sega, Nintendo, C64, Commodore Amiga, Apple II, Apple Mac, Playstation 2, etc.

For me, the Commodora Amiga was one of the most important machines to emulate. The old Amiga ROMs are still copyrighted, so I purchased them [https://www.amigaroms.com here]and added them to the Batocera/ROMs directory. To convert my old Amiga 3.5" Disks, I've used Rob Smith's [https://amiga.robsmithdev.co.uk DrawBridge], which converts modern USB-Floppy-Drives to read and write the native Amiga disk format.

== Hanging System (French Cleat) ==
My initial idea was to hang the arcade cabinet to a wall with a french cleat hanging system. After the cabinet was finished, I found an even better spot: "inside" my Ikea IVAR shelf wall.